Asking for a friend? ;-) Well, I'd first start with a tool like a Mag-mate 900 series flexible pickup tool. This type of tool is very thin, extremely flexible and has a strong magnet tip. If a bolt were to slip past your rag stuffed in there it's going to fall on a small ledge of the engine cover usually. You can use this kind of tool to either fish it out, or push it into the oil pan where it can be retrieved more easily (though it won't fit thru the drain plug hole). *You absolutely cannot start the engine until the bolt is retrieved as the bolt can get jammed into the timing gears and cause irreparable damage!* If it falls into the oil pan (and you can visually confirm this by fishing it with the same tool to the drain plug area) then you just drop the oil pan and fish it out. If you can't get it back thru the access port for the water pump, _and_ can't get it into the oil pan - take a deep breath because now you have to disassembly enough to pull the front engine cover off and that's a whole other job in of itself.
no was just trying to prepare for whatifs BUT we ended up paying a mechanic to put the new waterpump on 600 and the new waterpump caused the head gasket to start leaking coolant into the oil at a very high rate of speed. so we had to get our hybrid fixed and parked the chevy. before it was beyond repairing
Getting ready to do my brothers 2.2 eco. Cavalier. The fan won't turn on. Was replaced years back with used one. So Im just gonna replace it all... New fan, new thermo (never been changed) new pump (never been changed) and temp sensor. Found that tool for the timing sprocket at harbor freight for $8 bucks.
Amazing video. Excellent description of what and how. My wife told me she noticed a leak the other day. I went ahead and inspected it. It’s the water pump.. 😢 03 Pontiac sunfire.
Or dear God, everything on this car is crazy pain in the ass ,I was thinking about doing it myself they must of been on drugs whoever designed this engine.this is nothing like the Malibu muscle car.
If you take the exhaust manifold nuts off and then get under the car and take the 2 exhaust nuts off from the pipe in front of muffler you can slide the manifold back far enough to get to the crossover pipe and the water pump with no hassle. It really opens up workspace.
if you would have put the tool on bottom , it will protect the bolts from falling into timing cover , the also have a tool that covers the hole completely
now finally am just wrapping this job up after watching a ton of vids cuz each one has its own unique tips , tricks and info. your vid was very helpful indeed, you gave bolt sizes, torque specs and a list of other do's and dont's. i found that using a droplight and a compact mirror in my right hand helped when it was time to align the holes to put the three pulley bolts back in, i reached around with my left hand and could slowly rotate the inboard side of the pump pulley. loosening the motor mount frame side nuts and lifting the engine up an inch also helped access the cover plate. i used deep sockets under the mount bracket as safeguards against a jack slip or fail, cuz fingers are handy to keep intact ! thanks again for taking time to do the filming , editing and posting
A thermostat retainer. I added a link in the video description with the number. But its been discontinued for a long time though. You may have better luck at a pull your own parts salvage yard for that particular part.
Great video. Quick question though-- I'm about to do this to my Sunfire and I seen another person online mention that there is a Half moon tool like the one you used, and there is ALSO a full moon(circle) shaped tool...they said it's better to have the Full moon tool In your opinion does it matter that much which tool you use, or is this person blowing smoke out their rear? You seemed to get by just fine with the half moon tool. Again , thanks and great job, video is very clear with no BS filler
Thanks, the folks who complaint about this particular style tool likely got burned because they didn't use it properly. You have to orient the blue side down to catch any bolts you may drop accidentally. If you don't have this tool in that orientation, then you need to put shop towels in that space for the same purpose. It's really nothing more complicated than that tools choice wise. I prefer this design of the tool out of brand loyalty and its thin lightweight aluminum construction for tight clearance areas.
@@DrShock Awesome, I'll keep that in mind about the tool orientation. I went ahead and picked up the half moon tool, and I'm about the get started on the job. Thanks for your quick reply, and also thanks again for the video!
If you have not done one of these Ecotec pumps before it can seem daunting. For a pump that will not release, first verify that all of the fasteners have in fact been removed. Second corrosion can also be a factor, even with aluminum parts, so some penetrant along the seam where oxidation is visible can be helpful. Past that, a rubber or plastic mallet (no steel tools as they can damage the aluminum housing that the pump mates up to) can introduce some gentle persuasion for stubborn units.
Thanks for the great insight! When I was putting my new thermostat in, realized the old gasket was stuck in, so definitely want to double check if its not on the old thermostat. Also, I noticed there was a larger gasket where the hose flange mounts to the block, close to the where the thin edge of the plastic housing sits flush to the thermostat housing. Did you use the same gasket that mates to the hose flange face? My thermostat or pump didn't come with a new one, hopefully it won't leak.
Yeah there's three gaskets here and I was able to reuse all but the one that is part of the thermostat itself. For reference the three gaskets are the large diameter o-ring type on the water pump end of the cross over, and then the thermostat housing flange has another recessed o-ring type you can see at 29:05 . Finally you have the thermostat rubber gasket itself. There's the plastic retainer alignment housing for the thermostat as well, but it's not a gasket type piece. All three gaskets and the plastic retainer are needed though to insure no leakage of coolant at full operating temperature.
Excellent job,I just dropped 1 bolt down into the timing cover. I even had a rag stuffed in there too, was times. Anyway, do you have any tricks to recover it?
You'll want a bendable thin magnetic pickup tool, something like this one at Amazon amzn.to/2Ukf957 where you can snake down and pull it back up. Usually the bolt will rest on a casting ledge and you can fish it out with one. Alternatively if you can knock it into the oil pan you can then pull the pan to get it. If you can't get it out, or knock it down, then it's alot more work as you'll have to pull the front engine cover off to get it.
Great video on a VERY unenviable job. I was wondering though why you didn’t pull the exhaust manifold. It looks like it would have opened up tons more room and made this job exceedingly less difficult. Were you afraid the bolts might snap off?
Thanks. These 2.2L Ecotec engines are two decades old, or even more. It is very typical for the bolts to snap off in the cylinder head if you attempt to remove the exhaust manifold. So we just work around such obstacles whenever doing a job on an older GM vehicle. Time is money, and leaving parts alone is often less cost than removing them for more access in my experience.
I removed exhaust manifold and it made it much easier. Dr. Shock was right they are weak bolts. I had one snap lucky enough i was able to weld nut on and get it out. I’d definitely recommend anti seize on all exhaust bolts. But yes taking the manifold out does make for much better access. Especially to the 10mm located under the cross over pipe on back of water pump.
Where did you get the rubber hose tool to turn the pipe from the water pump to the thermostat? The blue tool looks like that was faster to do then your hands. Thanks in advance
I have a sunfire 2.2 but after changing the water pump started a loud noise like a turbo i change all the distribution chian but the sound persist dou you know what happens? it can be that i put the waterpump in bad position? whats the torque for the waterpump bolts? thank you
The torque on the water pump sprocket bolts is only 89 *inch* pounds, the other bolt torque values I give during the video. But it is next to impossible to get a normal torque wrench into that confined space where the sprocket bolts are so you'll have to guesstimate on those. On the noise - you used the special tool to prevent the timing chain from moving during the repair right? You have all of the sprocket to water pump bolts reinstalled (didn't drop one into the engine!)? You torqued all of the water pump mounting bolts (to insure it's mounted evenly)? Other than those three possibilities I haven't ran into any odd noises on such a repair, even on other GM vehicles. I suppose it could be a defective water pump bearing, but that is unusual. If it were me I think I would be focusing first on any obstruction with the sprocket or chain, and if not finding any pull it off and remount the old pump. If the noise is gone, it's a bad pump even though new.
@@DrShock I think My mechanic didn't use the special tool but he puted the old water pump to check if the noise desapeared but did't works and the new mechanic can't find the origin of the noise i will Say him about your recomendations, thanks a lot
If some form of this tool was _not_ used, then the engine timing chain is now in an incorrect position more than likely. That's the whole reason that type of tool is required to be used when doing this repair on all GM Ecotec engines.
@@olenaerhardt7725 You would have to spend considerably more time to do more engine disassembly (front cover area) for access, and have the factory service manual to reference the procedure. But yes, redoing the engine timing is a documented procedure. It's something you would have to do if replacing the timing chain, for example.
You should have a complete ready to bolt on unit like the ACDelco one I showed in the video. Aftermarket ones may require you to transfer parts from the old pump, if so there should be something in the box instructions wise to that.
Autozone will have the ACDelco, though may have to order it from the warehouse - their SKU for the OG is #9959. There are online links in the description too for the ACDelco pump. Aftermarket pumps should look exactly the same though, so the video is still the same for those too. Ask where you bought it about this _missing back_ piece you mention - its more likely the wrong pump.
The tool like the blue one shown in this videos thumbnail is required to keep the water pump sprocket and chain in the same exact position while you swap out the water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing chain so use of the tool is not optional, it's required. If you didn't use the tool, then the sprocket and chain have dropped into the engine area and moved to different teeth on the drive gears, changing the engine timing. To correct this, the job is much larger now, as you'll have to do further disassembly to remove the front engine cover.
@@DrShock i was able to get the sprocket bolts off successfully. tomorrow i get my ac delco water pump and im taking my time but im learning how to do it
Hi, my son has a 2010 Chevy Malibu 2.4 eco. It over heats after about 20 min. Changed the thermostat twice, still no luck. 225k on the clock. No leaks that we can see. Is it worth changing the pump to see if this solves the problem in your opinion?
Well, I wouldn't recommend just throwing parts at a problem. You have to diagnose the issue and find out the specific part needed. For an over heating problem, we're looking for either a coolant leak or a pressure cap venting. We're looking for an electric cooling fan that is not operating, or a thermostat that has failed. One of the last things we would be looking at is the water pump itself.
It will be in the video, I don't recall off hand. But I do recall that it's almost impossible to get a torque wrench into that particular space without removing more of the fender / wheel well parts.
Just wanted to give you a little update I successfully put the a special tool to secure the timing gear for the water pump and yes I'm taking my time I'm not going to rush it
You have any idea why my new pump whines. It's pretty loud. I bought a new ACDelco with no back cover or sprocket since I could use my own cover and didn't need the sprocket. Saved a $100 but it was made in China. I sent back to Amazon and bought what you used, the whole pump which was made in Mexico. Have the same noisy sound which sounds like a plane. The one that came off, which I think was original, had plastic fins and casing. This ACDelco is all metal. Loud and sounds horrible when you gas it. Any ideas what's wrong? Thanks ..........and I didn't drop anything in the hole. I used the full moon tool, much better and safer, but a lot more money too,
Sounds like the first part you got was an ACDelco Advantage line pump (cost reduced line to price compete with aftermarket). But if with both the Advantage and OE line pumps installed the engine exhibits the same sound, then it's *not* the pump right. It's more likely related to the drive/timing chain. In some situations, it's possible to inadvertently change the chain tension when installing the retaining tool (here's where the half moon tool can be better because you can eyeball that you're not letting the chain move *at all* during the attachment. To correct this noise, you'll have to pull the timing cover off the engine to get access to the chain and tensioner. You'll need to replace the cover gasket as well.
@@DrShock Thanks!! I was afraid of that. I imagine that's not good on things. I'll probably buy a new tensioner and not try to reset the old one. Can I replace the top/bolt tensioner without causing more problems? Thanks again for your input and knowledge. Also, can the timing be off now. It seems to run ok except it takes two tries to get it started
The tool should definitely have protected the timing so I wouldn't be concerned about that aspect, it's the tensioner that could have moved hence the noise from the chain now. It's something you should address as there's now too much tension, but you could make sure the water pump repair is ok first (not leaking, etc) before tackling it.
You can get some oil residue, since the part of the pump that the chain driven sprocket attaches to is in the oil lubrication part of the engine. And the access cover where you put the special tool in, can leak if you don't replace the black gasket underneath it. But you shouldn't see oil coming out of the coolant pipe of the pump.
There are a number of bolts involved in this repair that you have to keep track of. But I don't recall what their lengths are. Count wise I recall you have the access cover bolts (4), water pump gear to shaft bolts (3), water pump housing mounting bolts (2), exhaust shield retaining studs (3), and thermostat crossover pipe mounting bolts (2). I do try to show each one in the camera view at each step of the disassembly for identification.
@@osvaldomadrigal6214 Just hand tighten, since the torque wrench is inaccessible in this location without unnecessary further disassembly. You want to get it as close to the torque it _felt_ to remove originally. It's important not to over tighten, these are small bolts.
well i am about to change my water pump next weekend very scared of doing this this to me is the most major thing i have done for this car chevy 2009 hhr i just finished replacing o rings on the coolant bypass had to do it blindly cause that was the only option i had I do not have a lift to do this ended up straining my knee from bending over the engine to remove by pass and put in new o rings and thermostat needed a month to recover cause i strained by ligaments while bending over was hoping i did not have to work on car again so far i have replaced control arms ,struts stabilizer bushings ,links ,rotors and wheel bearings which still do not work the sensor is not working right got to check this out to figure why the sensor is not working would like to know why they put water pump in a bad spot they want to charge 2000.00 for this job the car has 240,000 miles , it has run fine so far but the sway bars links on this model suck they always break or give out too soon it is not easy for a idiot guy like me to go to a mechanic to fix this even with inflation going crazy i have trouble buying gas and do not travel anymore just to save gas now i have to repair water pump ,I get nervous getting any way close to timing chain if i screw this up i am done for ,i have fixed everything on both of my cars so far I consider this to be luck not skill ,never thought as myself smart to do these things yet i am forced to try have no choice ,i spent several hrs watching your vids and others on how to fix water pump ,i wish they were still a easy access to fix like my jeep and other cars i have had this is why i lose respect for these stupid engineers they draw up design not taking into consideration that sometimes a regular person may not have 2000.00 $ to fix this don't know why this was designed this way sorry for this just venting out my frustrations and nervousness ,well here i go knee swelling has gone i am back to normal lets see what i can hurt this time fare well JRo
You have to shop around, either eBay or rockauto is where I usually get ACDelco/GM parts at the lowest cost. You'll need a new gasket for the access cover where the bolts for the sprocket are. I have these all linked in the description. It's been awhile since I did this but I believe all three parts were under $200.
@@DrShock I started taking it apart and after I removed the heat shield off the exhaust I discovered two big cracks!!! I guess that'll make the water pump install a bit easier since I have to remove the manifold now. Lol! I love going to the junk yard anywayz
@@DrShock I got the thermostat housing and cross over tube removed and I can see the impeller of the water pump. I turned the crankshaft over a few times and the impeller appears to spin just fine. Would there be any reason NOT to replace it?
Typically this kind of repair is due to the water pump leaking coolant, due to an internal seal having failed as with the one in this video. If the pump is not leaking, and you haven't had an over heating problem, then what problem are you trying to solve by replacing the pump?
That's going to vary and depend on the individuals experience having performed the same or similar repair previously, their mechanical skill level, the tools they have to work with, and whether anything goes _wrong_ during the procedure. All it takes is one corroded wire or bolt to turn something from a few hours to an entire weekend on these older vehicles. So like any other older vehicle repair, your mileage may vary and batteries are not included but it should be doable in a single afternoon.
I put aftermarket headers on my 2002 Pontiac sunfire gt to help in the future when I need to replace the thermostat again, so I don't have to remove the headers.
Do *not* attempt to start the engine until you fish them out. You'll need a long flexible magnet tip pickup tool for that. If they are not picked up by the magnet, then they may have fallen thru into the oil pan. These are the _lucky_ recovery options. The unlucky option, is you have to pull off the front engine timing cover to get at them.
what do you do if you DO accidentally drop the bolts???
Asking for a friend? ;-) Well, I'd first start with a tool like a Mag-mate 900 series flexible pickup tool. This type of tool is very thin, extremely flexible and has a strong magnet tip. If a bolt were to slip past your rag stuffed in there it's going to fall on a small ledge of the engine cover usually. You can use this kind of tool to either fish it out, or push it into the oil pan where it can be retrieved more easily (though it won't fit thru the drain plug hole). *You absolutely cannot start the engine until the bolt is retrieved as the bolt can get jammed into the timing gears and cause irreparable damage!* If it falls into the oil pan (and you can visually confirm this by fishing it with the same tool to the drain plug area) then you just drop the oil pan and fish it out. If you can't get it back thru the access port for the water pump, _and_ can't get it into the oil pan - take a deep breath because now you have to disassembly enough to pull the front engine cover off and that's a whole other job in of itself.
no was just trying to prepare for whatifs BUT we ended up paying a mechanic to put the new waterpump on 600 and the new waterpump caused the head gasket to start leaking coolant into the oil at a very high rate of speed. so we had to get our hybrid fixed and parked the chevy. before it was beyond repairing
Getting ready to do my brothers 2.2 eco. Cavalier. The fan won't turn on. Was replaced years back with used one. So Im just gonna replace it all... New fan, new thermo (never been changed) new pump (never been changed) and temp sensor. Found that tool for the timing sprocket at harbor freight for $8 bucks.
@natalieopsahl I have the same engine in my 04 Grand Am my question is do you have to change the timing chain pullies to change the water pump
Good job.
Amazing video. Excellent description of what and how. My wife told me she noticed a leak the other day. I went ahead and inspected it. It’s the water pump.. 😢 03 Pontiac sunfire.
Or dear God, everything on this car is crazy pain in the ass ,I was thinking about doing it myself they must of been on drugs whoever designed this engine.this is nothing like the Malibu muscle car.
By far the best video where the person actually shows you everything,thank you for the great video
The factory service manual is an absolute necessity for a DIY’er like me. Thank you for sharing.
Great job Dr. Shock especially the way you explain and the exceptional video I appreciate it very much. Thanks for sharing your knowledge...
Very helpful!! This was like the nicest video i found on how to do this !!! Tanks lot!!!
Thanks for this video 👍 this definitely helped out for me preparing for my next job on my 2004 Chevy classic
One of the best videos I have watched
If you take the exhaust manifold nuts off and then get under the car and take the 2 exhaust nuts off from the pipe in front of muffler you can slide the manifold back far enough to get to the crossover pipe and the water pump with no hassle. It really opens up workspace.
Thanks for the great video. This helped me out big time!
if you would have put the tool on bottom , it will protect the bolts from falling into timing cover , the also have a tool that covers the hole completely
Thanks for this very helpful article 👏
Thanks for the instructions .i appreciate it . 😃
He did a great job on this video.
Good stuff keep up the good work
Awsome video thank you
nice work thanks for posting
now finally am just wrapping this job up after watching a ton of vids cuz each one has its own unique tips , tricks and info. your vid was very helpful indeed, you gave bolt sizes, torque specs and a list of other do's and dont's. i found that using a droplight and a compact mirror in my right hand helped when it was time to align the holes to put the three pulley bolts back in, i reached around with my left hand and could slowly rotate the inboard side of the pump pulley. loosening the motor mount frame side nuts and lifting the engine up an inch also helped access the cover plate. i used deep sockets under the mount bracket as safeguards against a jack slip or fail, cuz fingers are handy to keep intact ! thanks again for taking time to do the filming , editing and posting
If you ever get a chance can you do a video for a transmission mount on a Pontiac or a Cavalier 2.2 overhead cam
Do you know what that black sleeve for the thomostat is called or a part # for it I'm having a hard time finding one.
A thermostat retainer. I added a link in the video description with the number. But its been discontinued for a long time though. You may have better luck at a pull your own parts salvage yard for that particular part.
Great video. Quick question though--
I'm about to do this to my Sunfire and I seen another person online mention that there is a Half moon tool like the one you used, and there is ALSO a full moon(circle) shaped tool...they said it's better to have the Full moon tool
In your opinion does it matter that much which tool you use, or is this person blowing smoke out their rear?
You seemed to get by just fine with the half moon tool.
Again , thanks and great job, video is very clear with no BS filler
Thanks, the folks who complaint about this particular style tool likely got burned because they didn't use it properly. You have to orient the blue side down to catch any bolts you may drop accidentally. If you don't have this tool in that orientation, then you need to put shop towels in that space for the same purpose. It's really nothing more complicated than that tools choice wise. I prefer this design of the tool out of brand loyalty and its thin lightweight aluminum construction for tight clearance areas.
@@DrShock Awesome, I'll keep that in mind about the tool orientation. I went ahead and picked up the half moon tool, and I'm about the get started on the job.
Thanks for your quick reply, and also thanks again for the video!
No way you got the old water pump out that easy. I've been banging and moving and breaking it. I cannot get it off for the life of me
If you have not done one of these Ecotec pumps before it can seem daunting. For a pump that will not release, first verify that all of the fasteners have in fact been removed. Second corrosion can also be a factor, even with aluminum parts, so some penetrant along the seam where oxidation is visible can be helpful. Past that, a rubber or plastic mallet (no steel tools as they can damage the aluminum housing that the pump mates up to) can introduce some gentle persuasion for stubborn units.
All good. I noticed there was one bolt not discussed. One near the engine mount and timing cover for the pump itself.
PB Blaster, made right here in Cleveland 💪💪💪
Way better than wd40
Thanks for the great insight! When I was putting my new thermostat in, realized the old gasket was stuck in, so definitely want to double check if its not on the old thermostat. Also, I noticed there was a larger gasket where the hose flange mounts to the block, close to the where the thin edge of the plastic housing sits flush to the thermostat housing. Did you use the same gasket that mates to the hose flange face? My thermostat or pump didn't come with a new one, hopefully it won't leak.
Yeah there's three gaskets here and I was able to reuse all but the one that is part of the thermostat itself. For reference the three gaskets are the large diameter o-ring type on the water pump end of the cross over, and then the thermostat housing flange has another recessed o-ring type you can see at 29:05 . Finally you have the thermostat rubber gasket itself. There's the plastic retainer alignment housing for the thermostat as well, but it's not a gasket type piece. All three gaskets and the plastic retainer are needed though to insure no leakage of coolant at full operating temperature.
Excellent job,I just dropped 1 bolt down into the timing cover. I even had a rag stuffed in there too, was times. Anyway, do you have any tricks to recover it?
You'll want a bendable thin magnetic pickup tool, something like this one at Amazon amzn.to/2Ukf957 where you can snake down and pull it back up. Usually the bolt will rest on a casting ledge and you can fish it out with one. Alternatively if you can knock it into the oil pan you can then pull the pan to get it. If you can't get it out, or knock it down, then it's alot more work as you'll have to pull the front engine cover off to get it.
@@DrShock thank you sir, I will do that.
Im grabbing the thickest rag possible
Great video on a VERY unenviable job. I was wondering though why you didn’t pull the exhaust manifold. It looks like it would have opened up tons more room and made this job exceedingly less difficult. Were you afraid the bolts might snap off?
Thanks. These 2.2L Ecotec engines are two decades old, or even more. It is very typical for the bolts to snap off in the cylinder head if you attempt to remove the exhaust manifold. So we just work around such obstacles whenever doing a job on an older GM vehicle. Time is money, and leaving parts alone is often less cost than removing them for more access in my experience.
I removed exhaust manifold and it made it much easier. Dr. Shock was right they are weak bolts. I had one snap lucky enough i was able to weld nut on and get it out. I’d definitely recommend anti seize on all exhaust bolts. But yes taking the manifold out does make for much better access. Especially to the 10mm located under the cross over pipe on back of water pump.
I got headers installed but my ion luckily was not subject to too much rust. I still wouldn't risk it
Where did you get the rubber hose tool to turn the pipe from the water pump to the thermostat? The blue tool looks like that was faster to do then your hands. Thanks in advance
It's called a strap wrench, there's a link in the video description.
I have a sunfire 2.2 but after changing the water pump started a loud noise like a turbo i change all the distribution chian but the sound persist dou you know what happens? it can be that i put the waterpump in bad position? whats the torque for the waterpump bolts?
thank you
The torque on the water pump sprocket bolts is only 89 *inch* pounds, the other bolt torque values I give during the video. But it is next to impossible to get a normal torque wrench into that confined space where the sprocket bolts are so you'll have to guesstimate on those. On the noise - you used the special tool to prevent the timing chain from moving during the repair right? You have all of the sprocket to water pump bolts reinstalled (didn't drop one into the engine!)? You torqued all of the water pump mounting bolts (to insure it's mounted evenly)? Other than those three possibilities I haven't ran into any odd noises on such a repair, even on other GM vehicles. I suppose it could be a defective water pump bearing, but that is unusual. If it were me I think I would be focusing first on any obstruction with the sprocket or chain, and if not finding any pull it off and remount the old pump. If the noise is gone, it's a bad pump even though new.
@@DrShock I think My mechanic didn't use the special tool but he puted the old water pump to check if the noise desapeared but did't works and the new mechanic can't find the origin of the noise i will Say him about your recomendations, thanks a lot
If some form of this tool was _not_ used, then the engine timing chain is now in an incorrect position more than likely. That's the whole reason that type of tool is required to be used when doing this repair on all GM Ecotec engines.
@@DrShock Can you correct the engine timing chain on the car after this mistake?
@@olenaerhardt7725 You would have to spend considerably more time to do more engine disassembly (front cover area) for access, and have the factory service manual to reference the procedure. But yes, redoing the engine timing is a documented procedure. It's something you would have to do if replacing the timing chain, for example.
I just bought my new water pump but I didn't get the back piece for it can I still use it?
There's no leaks
You should have a complete ready to bolt on unit like the ACDelco one I showed in the video. Aftermarket ones may require you to transfer parts from the old pump, if so there should be something in the box instructions wise to that.
Do I have to get it online because I can't get it at Pep Boys AutoZone Napa O'Reilly's
Autozone will have the ACDelco, though may have to order it from the warehouse - their SKU for the OG is #9959. There are online links in the description too for the ACDelco pump. Aftermarket pumps should look exactly the same though, so the video is still the same for those too. Ask where you bought it about this _missing back_ piece you mention - its more likely the wrong pump.
Will that be able to find it on a 2002
What are the torque specs on the timing sprocket bolts?
It will be very difficult to accommodate a torque wrench in the space provided, but the torque provided by GM is 89 inch pounds.
@@DrShock Definitely will be hard to fit a torque wrench in that space. Thank you very much, I appreciate the response.
So what doI do if I done took all the bolts out that holds the water pump?Is it out of time?
The tool like the blue one shown in this videos thumbnail is required to keep the water pump sprocket and chain in the same exact position while you swap out the water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing chain so use of the tool is not optional, it's required. If you didn't use the tool, then the sprocket and chain have dropped into the engine area and moved to different teeth on the drive gears, changing the engine timing. To correct this, the job is much larger now, as you'll have to do further disassembly to remove the front engine cover.
Whats the name of the tool that hold the gear in place and where can i buy it?
There's links in the description for that tool, and the parts. It's a water pump holding tool.
Did u lower the motor mount to get to access panal
It should not be necessary to do that.
@@DrShock i was able to get the sprocket bolts off successfully. tomorrow i get my ac delco water pump and im taking my time but im learning how to do it
Hi, my son has a 2010 Chevy Malibu 2.4 eco. It over heats after about 20 min. Changed the thermostat twice, still no luck. 225k on the clock. No leaks that we can see. Is it worth changing the pump to see if this solves the problem in your opinion?
Well, I wouldn't recommend just throwing parts at a problem. You have to diagnose the issue and find out the specific part needed. For an over heating problem, we're looking for either a coolant leak or a pressure cap venting. We're looking for an electric cooling fan that is not operating, or a thermostat that has failed. One of the last things we would be looking at is the water pump itself.
@@DrShock Thanks for the response. I have not checked the caps. Will do that next. Everything else mentioned has been checked.
Check easy stuff first, then check for head gasket issue
Once the water pump is installed how many pounds of torque do you have to put on sprocket bolts because I have the torque wrench
It will be in the video, I don't recall off hand. But I do recall that it's almost impossible to get a torque wrench into that particular space without removing more of the fender / wheel well parts.
You are absolutely right
My torque wrench is 3/8
I got it
Just wanted to give you a little update I successfully put the a special tool to secure the timing gear for the water pump and yes I'm taking my time I'm not going to rush it
thanks
What's the name or part number of that special tool
Should be a search link in the videos description for it.
Good video. Thanks a lot. ( where i can find the tool ?) Tanks again. If i say domething wrong im sorry my inglés jajaja. Is to short.
Thanks, links in the description for the tools and parts.
You have any idea why my new pump whines. It's pretty loud. I bought a new ACDelco with no back cover or sprocket since I could use my own cover and didn't need the sprocket. Saved a $100 but it was made in China. I sent back to Amazon and bought what you used, the whole pump which was made in Mexico. Have the same noisy sound which sounds like a plane. The one that came off, which I think was original, had plastic fins and casing. This ACDelco is all metal. Loud and sounds horrible when you gas it. Any ideas what's wrong? Thanks ..........and I didn't drop anything in the hole. I used the full moon tool, much better and safer, but a lot more money too,
Sounds like the first part you got was an ACDelco Advantage line pump (cost reduced line to price compete with aftermarket). But if with both the Advantage and OE line pumps installed the engine exhibits the same sound, then it's *not* the pump right. It's more likely related to the drive/timing chain. In some situations, it's possible to inadvertently change the chain tension when installing the retaining tool (here's where the half moon tool can be better because you can eyeball that you're not letting the chain move *at all* during the attachment. To correct this noise, you'll have to pull the timing cover off the engine to get access to the chain and tensioner. You'll need to replace the cover gasket as well.
@@DrShock Thanks!! I was afraid of that. I imagine that's not good on things. I'll probably buy a new tensioner and not try to reset the old one. Can I replace the top/bolt tensioner without causing more problems? Thanks again for your input and knowledge. Also, can the timing be off now. It seems to run ok except it takes two tries to get it started
The tool should definitely have protected the timing so I wouldn't be concerned about that aspect, it's the tensioner that could have moved hence the noise from the chain now. It's something you should address as there's now too much tension, but you could make sure the water pump repair is ok first (not leaking, etc) before tackling it.
Have you ever change the water pump to the point where it leak oil before
You can get some oil residue, since the part of the pump that the chain driven sprocket attaches to is in the oil lubrication part of the engine. And the access cover where you put the special tool in, can leak if you don't replace the black gasket underneath it. But you shouldn't see oil coming out of the coolant pipe of the pump.
@@DrShock it's an old part so I wouldn't doubt it the previous owner didn't really take care of it now it's my turn to take care of it
Is a torque wrench necessary
I'd definitely recommend it, you can usually loan one out from the local auto parts store.
@@DrShock ok
which length bolts of the water pump go where? I couldn't figure it out
There are a number of bolts involved in this repair that you have to keep track of. But I don't recall what their lengths are. Count wise I recall you have the access cover bolts (4), water pump gear to shaft bolts (3), water pump housing mounting bolts (2), exhaust shield retaining studs (3), and thermostat crossover pipe mounting bolts (2). I do try to show each one in the camera view at each step of the disassembly for identification.
What's the name of the tool that holds the timing gear in place?
There's a link in the description for the one I showed. The generic name would be a water pump pulley holding tool or retainer.
Guess what sir I had to lower the motor mount just a little bit to get access to the panel
Is it okay to use water pump gasket maker silicone the waterproof one
Sure, but sparingly as not called for.
Since the Gap is too tight for the torque wrench do you tighten the sprocket bolts up snug Wise
But not to tight
Or do you turn the sprocket bolts into the point where it doesn't turn anymore that's when you stop
@@osvaldomadrigal6214 Just hand tighten, since the torque wrench is inaccessible in this location without unnecessary further disassembly. You want to get it as close to the torque it _felt_ to remove originally. It's important not to over tighten, these are small bolts.
well i am about to change my water pump next weekend very scared of doing this this to me is the most major thing i have done for this car chevy 2009 hhr i just finished replacing o rings on the coolant bypass had to do it blindly cause that was the only option i had I do not have a lift to do this ended up straining my knee from bending over the engine to remove by pass and put in new o rings and thermostat needed a month to recover cause i strained by ligaments while bending over was hoping i did not have to work on car again so far i have replaced control arms ,struts stabilizer bushings ,links ,rotors and wheel bearings which still do not work the sensor is not working right got to check this out to figure why the sensor is not working would like to know why they put water pump in a bad spot they want to charge 2000.00 for this job the car has 240,000 miles , it has run fine so far but the sway bars links on this model suck they always break or give out too soon it is not easy for a idiot guy like me to go to a mechanic to fix this even with inflation going crazy i have trouble buying gas and do not travel anymore just to save gas now i have to repair water pump ,I get nervous getting any way close to timing chain if i screw this up i am done for ,i have fixed everything on both of my cars so far I consider this to be luck not skill ,never thought as myself smart to do these things yet i am forced to try have no choice ,i spent several hrs watching your vids and others on how to fix water pump ,i wish they were still a easy access to fix like my jeep and other cars i have had this is why i lose respect for these stupid engineers they draw up design not taking into consideration that sometimes a regular person may not have 2000.00 $ to fix this don't know why this was designed this way sorry for this just venting out my frustrations and nervousness ,well here i go knee swelling has gone i am back to normal lets see what i can hurt this time fare well JRo
So what's that hole on top of the water pump?
So what's tje hole in top of water pump?
You have a time index in the video for what you're looking at?
What is that tool called and where do you get it
Oops nevermind I found the link
So I'm thinking of doing this. What was your cost BTW? New thermostat + water pump+ tool? $70 ish? Anything else I may need to buY
You have to shop around, either eBay or rockauto is where I usually get ACDelco/GM parts at the lowest cost. You'll need a new gasket for the access cover where the bolts for the sprocket are. I have these all linked in the description. It's been awhile since I did this but I believe all three parts were under $200.
@@DrShock I started taking it apart and after I removed the heat shield off the exhaust I discovered two big cracks!!! I guess that'll make the water pump install a bit easier since I have to remove the manifold now. Lol! I love going to the junk yard anywayz
Unfortunate discovery, but at least you'll end up with a better overall repair. If you have one nearby, I recommend LKQ salvage.
@@DrShock I got the thermostat housing and cross over tube removed and I can see the impeller of the water pump. I turned the crankshaft over a few times and the impeller appears to spin just fine. Would there be any reason NOT to replace it?
Typically this kind of repair is due to the water pump leaking coolant, due to an internal seal having failed as with the one in this video. If the pump is not leaking, and you haven't had an over heating problem, then what problem are you trying to solve by replacing the pump?
Roughly how long to do everything 2 hours 3 hours or longer
That's going to vary and depend on the individuals experience having performed the same or similar repair previously, their mechanical skill level, the tools they have to work with, and whether anything goes _wrong_ during the procedure. All it takes is one corroded wire or bolt to turn something from a few hours to an entire weekend on these older vehicles. So like any other older vehicle repair, your mileage may vary and batteries are not included but it should be doable in a single afternoon.
I put aftermarket headers on my 2002 Pontiac sunfire gt to help in the future when I need to replace the thermostat again, so I don't have to remove the headers.
What possible benefit could there exist from this absolutely idiotic design?
Definitely an idiotic design.
I dropped two of the bolts into the horrible pocket help
Do *not* attempt to start the engine until you fish them out. You'll need a long flexible magnet tip pickup tool for that. If they are not picked up by the magnet, then they may have fallen thru into the oil pan. These are the _lucky_ recovery options. The unlucky option, is you have to pull off the front engine timing cover to get at them.
Chevy should be ashamed of themselves.
Great Video! Thanks 👍