Love the last comment. As other have stated, some guys 'think' they can watch a video and do it all. Mechanical aptitude and proper tools is key. I don't think I could watch a surgery video and then perform surgery. I'm not a doctor.
Thanks @MassiveOverkill i've enjoyed them all ... the only thing i have question about is when installing the clutches back on the shafts are you lubing the splines and what with , also the bearing inside the support housing ... thanks again Massive ...
Most people today have no mechanics skill. It's not hard to do, just have to take your time. For those of us that have the skills to do things ourselves it's actually fun to do.
Thank you once again for taking the time to make all the videos, I just ordered a Weller machine clutch kit and an extra jar of Tinks , time to do my first major service, I notice that it looks like you are running a stock secondary spring ??? ,I though you had upgraded to Weller clutch kit as well 🙂
Hey Rick, the secondary spring is for those wanting more low end performance. I'm perfectly happy with the machined sheave's additional low end performance and want to keep my cruising speeds RPMs lower, so the stock spring is best for that.
I see the performance secondary sheave available but is there a performance primary or is just a spring and weight change? I have stock 30” carnivores I plan to do a lift with spring/tender swap with 32-34” tires. I 85% trail riding and 15% mud/ water crossing.
There is a primary sliding sheave that is milled for better low and high end performance. There is a secondary spring available as well as slippery washers (UTVEngineering). No one machines the secondary sheave, only the primary sliding sheave, which is typical. There are additional options for the primary such as heavier roller weights for those that want lower RPMs and primary sheave collar shims which trade off high end for more low end.
You'll realize immediately the first time you service your sheave and kill 10 trees from the paper towels you use to clean out the old grease. Initially, greaseless was for U-boat commanders who swamped their units and couldn't go anywhere because water got in the CVT box and displaced the grease all over everything. Guys would go greaseless (in the primary sheave, which isn't sealed) so if they got water in the belt box they could just drain the box, spin up the sheaves dry and enjoy the rest of their ride.
Best video on TH-cam! Thank you!
Love the last comment. As other have stated, some guys 'think' they can watch a video and do it all. Mechanical aptitude and proper tools is key. I don't think I could watch a surgery video and then perform surgery. I'm not a doctor.
My vote is the naked women
I'm getting ready for my first service , and your videos will be priceless for us DIY guys.. THANKS !!!!
x2 ^^ these videos have been great!
Thanks @MassiveOverkill i've enjoyed them all ... the only thing i have question about is when installing the clutches back on the shafts are you lubing the splines and what with , also the bearing inside the support housing ...
thanks again Massive ...
Use TinkSeal on all your splines, do not get it on the threads.
@@MichaelJHathaway
Thanks 👍
The manual says use motor oil on the bearing in the support housing
Most people today have no mechanics skill. It's not hard to do, just have to take your time. For those of us that have the skills to do things ourselves it's actually fun to do.
Great video!!
Thank you once again for taking the time to make all the videos, I just ordered a Weller machine clutch kit and an extra jar of Tinks , time to do my first major service, I notice that it looks like you are running a stock secondary spring ??? ,I though you had upgraded to Weller clutch kit as well 🙂
Hey Rick, the secondary spring is for those wanting more low end performance. I'm perfectly happy with the machined sheave's additional low end performance and want to keep my cruising speeds RPMs lower, so the stock spring is best for that.
@@MassiveOverkill Thanks for clarifying that, I will have to try that first, and then try the secondary spring .
I see the performance secondary sheave available but is there a performance primary or is just a spring and weight change? I have stock 30” carnivores I plan to do a lift with spring/tender swap with 32-34” tires. I 85% trail riding and 15% mud/ water crossing.
There is a primary sliding sheave that is milled for better low and high end performance. There is a secondary spring available as well as slippery washers (UTVEngineering). No one machines the secondary sheave, only the primary sliding sheave, which is typical.
There are additional options for the primary such as heavier roller weights for those that want lower RPMs and primary sheave collar shims which trade off high end for more low end.
What is the advantage of going greaseless?
You'll realize immediately the first time you service your sheave and kill 10 trees from the paper towels you use to clean out the old grease. Initially, greaseless was for U-boat commanders who swamped their units and couldn't go anywhere because water got in the CVT box and displaced the grease all over everything. Guys would go greaseless (in the primary sheave, which isn't sealed) so if they got water in the belt box they could just drain the box, spin up the sheaves dry and enjoy the rest of their ride.
Looks good.
I like the new more aggressive Romeo. 😜
I just wanted to join the narrative that men can biologically have periods too ;)
It is called "shive" that is the way you say it.
Same thing as a knife used in jail.
Ask a crane operator, like me.
Get it right.
Blame the American language.