✅Click here for a new clutch ➜ amzn.to/3zXRXvF ✅Click here for a clutch removal tool ➜ amzn.to/3vixm10 For more videos like this, check out: 👉Un-seize engine video ➜ th-cam.com/video/JpCLxSYMqso/w-d-xo.html 👉UltraSonic cleaner video ➜ th-cam.com/video/BTN7-C72eHA/w-d-xo.html 👉Check spark video ➜ th-cam.com/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/w-d-xo.html 👉Fix a loose rope video ➜ th-cam.com/video/vCHId_yCQTw/w-d-xo.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
It's not boring to show every "tedious" step in disassembly. A lot of beginners, who may even have this exact same machine, will benefit from seeing how it all comes apart especially the things you didn't mention like the belt and pulleys, the belt guard, etc etc. People may need a video like this to see what parts go where and will also use it to see if parts are missing, especially since the one in this video seems factory complete. But do it your way I suppose.
My vote is for the valves as the next video. For no particular reason other than that valve looks horrendous. I’m interested in seeing how that gets fixed. Thanks!!
I wish I had seen this video 60 yrs ago when I had some of those old style B.S. engines. Good video and which ever you want to do next is fine with me. Thanks Steve!!!
I enjoy very much watching your informative videos, especially when they are a series like the 1970’s garden tiller.. I appreciate watching you use your expertise to bring a machine that looks trashed completely unusable back to life. I would like to see more videos like this one in the future. Thank You for sharing what you have learned in 30 some years of small engine repair. I can now do many repairs myself.
Good work Steve. I'm enjoying this little restoration series. I reckon it's got to be the valve and compression next. If that's not sorted, there's no point having a spark.
Dude! My dad just gave me his old Agway tiller...he said it was from the late '80s...but the engine code says it was made in 1979! It looks a LOT like the one you're rehabilitating here, and I'm looking forward to using your video series as a guide. Thanks for the great work!!
Thank you Steve I got my grandfather's old tiller and it started screaming at me. I don't have that tool for the clutch but going to try channel locks. Your the first channel I come to when I have a small engine problem. Told the boys at work about your channel I work for the DOT so all truck drivers and heavy equipment operators I should them you video of greasing a chain saw clutch not one of us know about it and we all run big saws of our own.
Valves next ,and when ever I have the clutch off I always pull that washer off the shaft and check the flywheel key . When you redo the points I'd consider using the B&S magnetron add on ignition module.!!!! Makes them run so much better !
Long ago I have converted all of my old Briggs engines over from points to solid state ignition. I have a K-Mart 22" Murray push mower that I got as a kid brand new in 1970 that I still use today for trimming where my zero turn can't reach next to flower beds, fence lines, etc. It still starts with the first pull because I take care of it, keep the valves adjusted (end gap) and fresh diaphragms under the carburetor and always use Stabil.
On a horizontal that only runs a belt there’s not too much likelihood of key damage. On a rotary mover, absolutely, every time! Still a good idea to check while you’re there.
I have always used a little block of wood to knock the clutch loose on those engines. I have been using it for years. I know they sell that fancy tool but an old timer taught me and he scoffed at me for suggesting specialized tools. Same with the flywheel knock off tool. A simple wack on the crank shaft with the nut screwed on breaks the flywheel loose. I have had to replace the clutch many times because the balls were rusted and pitted. I have also broke a few 1/4 in screen screws. I learned a long time ago to lube those screws and wack them with a punch if they fight me. Not suprised no spark. Usually just the points needing cleaned. I would get the compression up before worrying about spark. If the valves are damaged, seats are junk or rings are bad, I usually give up and call it a lost cause. No one I know wants to spend the money now days to rebuild a 5hp engine. We live in a throw away world. The sad part is that old engine is 10 times better quality than a new engine but these kids now days argue stating the Harbor Freight engines are far more superior." Really? I doubt they would last as long ",is always my come back. Kids.
The Harbor Freight engines are Honda clones and they are actually pretty good. They're overhead valve and nicely modern so they are more fuel efficient, quieter, and make more power for size. They are popular for go-kart racing where they get flogged around a track for many hours. There are stage 1, 2, and 3 racing upgrade kits that replace parts to increase power. If I had to replace an old flathead Briggs 5HP today, I'd put a Harbor Freight Predator 6HP in it instead, no hesitation. "The future is now old man." -A "Kid" (Millennial) 🤙
I used to use a pipe wrench to spin off those clutches. But sometimes I have broken off an ear that holds the screen down. Back in the day there was no such tool available for removing these clutches. Maybe I need to buy one now?
Great vid. I have come across my share of repairs with those briggs starter clutches. And many of them were because someone told them to lube them and they used grease LOL Do the valves next, I think your audience will love it; especially in a world full of Honda clones. Kudos!
I'm a little late to these videos, but it's great that you're going through this engine one piece at a time. Very logical progression. Excellent learning tool ya got here!
I have another idea of what video you should do. I would love to see you do a small engine rebuild. I think you should also do a video about when it is proper to us Never Seeze and when is it not proper to use Never Seeze.
I'm ready for either! I've cleaned and/or replaced several sets of points and a couple of condensers on flathead Briggs but have never personally had the valves out of one yet. I say valves first!
Learning as I go by watching your videos! Trying to get spark and taking it apart and putting it back together then fixing valve issues? Not sure as I'm learning from you! I would say valves then spark but I'm still learning 😌
I like what you did to solve the problem with the clutch and the removal of the rust. I would like to see you work on the piston next to make sure all is fine there.
Thanks Steve for all of your fine advice, tips and videos. I'm not small engine savvy, but your videos are so clear and concise, up-close and amazing. You show us how to , why to, and teach so much in an interesting manner. You're a natural teacher. I commend you and appreciate your honesty, comic attitude and ethics in all of your videos. So, Thank you. I have learned a lot, and if I need to learn further, I check out your videos to learn so much. God Bless you and your family. Again, thanks.
Steve, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I learned so much. It really doesn’t matter what you work on next. I’ll be watching all of it. Thanks again you do a great job communicating.
Nice job on all your educational videos Steve. Even a guy that knows-it-all can learn a thing or to. I like the Beer advice, i think that we would make a good team1
Steve I'm loving these videos! I would not be the least bit upset if you continue to do series like these. I always enjoy watching videos like this where they take an older piece of equipment and get it running again. I'm working on a '74 merry tiller with the 5 hp wisconsin engine myself, So it's really nice to see someone on TH-cam that is kind of following along doing the same thing. Keep it up! Love the videos!
"Balls of steel" 😳 Hahahaha! Caught me unaware and I had a great laugh! BTW: Love your presentation and common sense approach to small engine repair. Do rhe valves next.
Yep! Also lap them with lapping compound and check and adjust the valve stem end gap clearances between the tappets/lifters too after wire wheeling off the valves to clean them up). Better valve seal = better compression and more power!
Like to see you work on them valves Steve. But what ever you do i'm sure I will learn something . Enjoy your videos, and thanks 4 the Wisdom, And Help. Peace from N.C.
Hey Steve, Love the videos, like everyone else! I love the fact that you are doing a longer series on an old motor front to back. My vote is to address the valve and compression issue before the spark. Although the spark is probably less costly to dig into, no compression would probably mean you won't proceed further.
Steven and April I, hope all is well up north. I'm down in sunny Florida, The Season's ready to take off full swing. I'd like to see you jump right into the valves. The toilet bowl cleaner for rust, hell of an idea. I've been using other products. Love the knowledge. Have a good day Steve.
Let’s see the valves get taken out , cleaned, and lapped in. In the meantime, you can take the starter cover back off because you’ve already done that part. This way you’ll be prepared for the next video taking the flywheel off with the flywheel removal tool, then get to the points and condenser. I also recommend maybe putting in people into and condenser again instead of converting it to electronic ignition. Many guys out there need an education on replacing the points and condenser. Old guys like me have been there done that the last 50 years, but it makes for a good video for the young bloods.
Hey Steve for the grand finale can you get Bob and Doug Mckenzie for a beer hunter special ? now that would be a beauty eh ? the rebuild is a really good idea, going to learn a lot and have fun along the way.
Steve, I have an idea for your video mini series. How about a rebuild of a Tecumseh OH160? These seem to be a forgotten engine. Not many in depth videos out there on them. Certainly none from professionals such as yourself. I know Tecumseh is out of business here in the states, parts are probably hard to come by. Just a thought. Thanks for the great videos!
Ahh yes. Tecumseh engines. Always on the old Sears junky mowers. The governor (made out of plastic or pot metal) always goes out, then they throw the rod right out the side. When they run they always vibrate like hell because of poor balancing. They made good power though, had awesome compression. I'd always replace them with a good old Briggs.
@@joefudd The OH160 in my opinion was a better engine. The one I used as a 12 year old boy helping my father was an absolute beast. They were part of Tecumsehs XL series. Yes, it was mounted to a Sears tractor, but she was a work horse.
Hey Steve. Love this series as I also have one of these old tillers. Can’t wait for the carb rebuild video. Thanks for all you do for the small engine guys out here.
Valves mate! Thanks for your videos. Always love watching them. I have learned a bunch of info. I always like to fix my own tractor, lawnmowers and chain saws. 👍😎
✅Click here for a new clutch ➜ amzn.to/3zXRXvF
✅Click here for a clutch removal tool ➜ amzn.to/3vixm10
For more videos like this, check out:
👉Un-seize engine video ➜ th-cam.com/video/JpCLxSYMqso/w-d-xo.html
👉UltraSonic cleaner video ➜ th-cam.com/video/BTN7-C72eHA/w-d-xo.html
👉Check spark video ➜ th-cam.com/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/w-d-xo.html
👉Fix a loose rope video ➜ th-cam.com/video/vCHId_yCQTw/w-d-xo.html
You can connect with Steve here too:
✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/
✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
It's not boring to show every "tedious" step in disassembly. A lot of beginners, who may even have this exact same machine, will benefit from seeing how it all comes apart especially the things you didn't mention like the belt and pulleys, the belt guard, etc etc. People may need a video like this to see what parts go where and will also use it to see if parts are missing, especially since the one in this video seems factory complete. But do it your way I suppose.
Steve,the more I watch your videos the more anxious I am to work on small engines. Your contagious,great video.
You can do it!
Do the Valves next. Thanks
Coming soon!
Nice viedo, remove and seat the valves and set the valve adjustment and then do the points and condenser. Thanks
Ok, thanks
Lol.Im sure he might have known that.
My vote is for the valves as the next video. For no particular reason other than that valve looks horrendous. I’m interested in seeing how that gets fixed. Thanks!!
Great point!
Let's see the valves next. Thanks for the videos.
Coming soon!
I'm just learning how to work on small engines and equipment . Your videos are very helpful.
Great to hear!
I wish I had seen this video 60 yrs ago when I had some of those old style B.S. engines. Good video and which ever you want to do next is fine with me. Thanks Steve!!!
Cool, thanks
I enjoy very much watching your informative videos, especially when they are a series like the 1970’s garden tiller.. I appreciate watching you use your expertise to bring a machine that looks trashed completely unusable back to life. I would like to see more videos like this one in the future. Thank You for sharing what you have learned in 30 some years of small engine repair. I can now do many repairs myself.
Glad you like them!
Good work Steve. I'm enjoying this little restoration series.
I reckon it's got to be the valve and compression next. If that's not sorted, there's no point having a spark.
We shall see
valves and compression next. Loving the series keep it up Steve.
Thank You...
Valve and compression gets my vote!
Right on
Good job! Make sure you cover properly setting the governor. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
Doesn't matter which you do just along you do both 👍👍 looking forward to you bringing it back to life
Right on Al! Thank You...
Dude! My dad just gave me his old Agway tiller...he said it was from the late '80s...but the engine code says it was made in 1979! It looks a LOT like the one you're rehabilitating here, and I'm looking forward to using your video series as a guide. Thanks for the great work!!
Thank you Steve I got my grandfather's old tiller and it started screaming at me. I don't have that tool for the clutch but going to try channel locks. Your the first channel I come to when I have a small engine problem. Told the boys at work about your channel I work for the DOT so all truck drivers and heavy equipment operators I should them you video of greasing a chain saw clutch not one of us know about it and we all run big saws of our own.
Valves next ,and when ever I have the clutch off I always pull that washer off the shaft and check the flywheel key . When you redo the points I'd consider using the B&S magnetron add on ignition module.!!!! Makes them run so much better !
Right on
Great series Steve. Darrell’s comment is spot on and I might add emory cloth that flywheel and coil while the flywheel is off.
Long ago I have converted all of my old Briggs engines over from points to solid state ignition. I have a K-Mart 22" Murray push mower that I got as a kid brand new in 1970 that I still use today for trimming where my zero turn can't reach next to flower beds, fence lines, etc. It still starts with the first pull because I take care of it, keep the valves adjusted (end gap) and fresh diaphragms under the carburetor and always use Stabil.
On a horizontal that only runs a belt there’s not too much likelihood of key damage. On a rotary mover, absolutely, every time! Still a good idea to check while you’re there.
I have always used a little block of wood to knock the clutch loose on those engines. I have been using it for years. I know they sell that fancy tool but an old timer taught me and he scoffed at me for suggesting specialized tools. Same with the flywheel knock off tool. A simple wack on the crank shaft with the nut screwed on breaks the flywheel loose. I have had to replace the clutch many times because the balls were rusted and pitted. I have also broke a few 1/4 in screen screws. I learned a long time ago to lube those screws and wack them with a punch if they fight me. Not suprised no spark. Usually just the points needing cleaned. I would get the compression up before worrying about spark. If the valves are damaged, seats are junk or rings are bad, I usually give up and call it a lost cause. No one I know wants to spend the money now days to rebuild a 5hp engine. We live in a throw away world. The sad part is that old engine is 10 times better quality than a new engine but these kids now days argue stating the Harbor Freight engines are far more superior." Really? I doubt they would last as long ",is always my come back. Kids.
The Harbor Freight engines are Honda clones and they are actually pretty good. They're overhead valve and nicely modern so they are more fuel efficient, quieter, and make more power for size. They are popular for go-kart racing where they get flogged around a track for many hours. There are stage 1, 2, and 3 racing upgrade kits that replace parts to increase power. If I had to replace an old flathead Briggs 5HP today, I'd put a Harbor Freight Predator 6HP in it instead, no hesitation.
"The future is now old man."
-A "Kid" (Millennial) 🤙
I used to use a pipe wrench to spin off those clutches. But sometimes I have broken off an ear that holds the screen down. Back in the day there was no such tool available for removing these clutches. Maybe I need to buy one now?
@@joefudd The tool has been around as long as the clutches have been used.
Great video! Got mine working just fine, looks like previous owner had greased it up good.
This is fun ! Thanks Steve ! 👍
Any time!
Another awesome and educational video. Never knew how to fix a clutch, now I do. Thanks
Glad to help
Definitely the valves so you can check the compression. Thank you for all your great videos. You have taught me a lot.
Glad to help
I wish i had one of these engines but it's soo hard finding them. I think you should do the spark next. Nice vid
This engine should be easy to find , I've probably got 6 or 8 of them.
Thank You...
@@darellsunderlin4670 i would love to buy one or two off of you
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon have you ever seen a maytag engine? It would be really cool if you worked on one
Really enjoying this series Steve...it takes me back to being a kid seeing family manhandle this beast every year in our huge gardens.
Thank You...
Just found your site. Have an over 40 year old briggs. Fixed broken starter rope now clutch might engage might not. Will try cleaning it
Good luck!
I have the same issues on a rototiller with the same engine I am working on. Thanks for this series.
Thanks for watching!
Great vid. I have come across my share of repairs with those briggs starter clutches. And many of them were because someone told them to lube them and they used grease LOL Do the valves next, I think your audience will love it; especially in a world full of Honda clones. Kudos!
Right on
Steve, really enjoy your videos. You don’t wast time with the I love me segments many others insert in their video. Thank you sir.
I appreciate that!
I'm a little late to these videos, but it's great that you're going through this engine one piece at a time. Very logical progression. Excellent learning tool ya got here!
Cool, thanks
I have another idea of what video you should do. I would love to see you do a small engine rebuild. I think you should also do a video about when it is proper to us Never Seeze and when is it not proper to use Never Seeze.
Awesome video as always Steve, do the valves next, see if it has compression.
Great suggestion!
Good information for a lot of folks who are learning
I'm ready for either! I've cleaned and/or replaced several sets of points and a couple of condensers on flathead Briggs but have never personally had the valves out of one yet. I say valves first!
Right on
Don't matter what is next, I enjoy watching your channel. Thanks Steve.
Thanks 👍
Another great video. I just picked up an old lawn mower and clutch is stuck on it. Definitely going to get after it per these tips. Thanks.
Good luck!
Thanks Steve.
Nice job on the clutch. So easy wehn you know what you are doing.
Do the valve next.
You're Welcome...
I vote spark next! :) but either is grand :) nice one
Thank You...
Wow, the toilet bowl cleaner did a nice job. I’m going to try that with some of my rusty junk. Thanks for sharing.
Any time!
That was a good way of cleaning them up. I'll try that the next time. Thanks, Steve!
Learning as I go by watching your videos! Trying to get spark and taking it apart and putting it back together then fixing valve issues? Not sure as I'm learning from you! I would say valves then spark but I'm still learning 😌
Glad to help
I've snapped more than one crank by turning the engine over with an impact.
I like that tool.
I've got the same engine on my tiller. Last year I fixed the spack issue. Show me a good valve Job!
Right on
Like always great video .I want to see compression and valves.Thank you for sharing
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
So glad I subbed to this channel,thanks from a fellow Canuck.
Awesome! Thank you!
That engine has balls of steel. Too good
Right on
looking forward to seeing valve repair.....thumbs up !
Coming soon!
I like what you did to solve the problem with the clutch and the removal of the rust. I would like to see you work on the piston next to make sure all is fine there.
Right on
Thanks Steve for all of your fine advice, tips and videos. I'm not small engine savvy, but your videos are so clear and concise, up-close and amazing. You show us how to , why to, and teach so much in an interesting manner. You're a natural teacher. I commend you and appreciate your honesty, comic attitude and ethics in all of your videos. So, Thank you. I have learned a lot, and if I need to learn further, I check out your videos to learn so much. God Bless you and your family. Again, thanks.
You're Welcome...
Valves please, Steve you are the best!
Thank You...
Will follow this series with interest had plenty of these in the past. I drilled a small 1/8 hole in the dust cover and spayed with wd40.. same job.
Right on
Great tip steve great video
Thanks 👍
Thanks Steve!! I have alway put grease in the clutch. Not anymore thanks for another great tip!!
Glad to help
I would do the valves first. You can always take care of the spark issue after you know it has compression. Thanks Steve 🔧👍
Right on
Very clear and helpful, all the way to Australia
Great to hear!
Could watch this all day
Thank You...
Lets convert it to electronic ignition. Good video and series
Not a bad idea
Valves next Steve.......top work.
We shall see
Steve, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I learned so much. It really doesn’t matter what you work on next. I’ll be watching all of it. Thanks again you do a great job communicating.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Nice job on all your educational videos Steve. Even a guy that knows-it-all can learn a thing or to. I like the Beer advice, i think that we would make a good team1
Right on!
Valve Steve. Cheers.
Right on
Steve I'm loving these videos! I would not be the least bit upset if you continue to do series like these. I always enjoy watching videos like this where they take an older piece of equipment and get it running again. I'm working on a '74 merry tiller with the 5 hp wisconsin engine myself, So it's really nice to see someone on TH-cam that is kind of following along doing the same thing. Keep it up! Love the videos!
Glad you like them!
Valves and compression would be awesome!
Great suggestion!
either valves or points...........I've got 2 of those 5hp that I can't get to run, one is from 67......I'm enjoying this series.
Thank You...
I love this series . Its got a mustie1 vibe to it!
"Balls of steel" 😳
Hahahaha! Caught me unaware and I had a great laugh!
BTW: Love your presentation and common sense approach to small engine repair. Do rhe valves next.
Awesome! Thank you!
Following this one to the end.
Like to see you do the valves first. Thank you Steve.
Noted!
great job steve
Thank You...
Hope you have enough Stella to get that Briggs running! All your videos are great!👍
Thanks 👍
Go for the valves Steve 👍😁
Right on
I believe I'd fix the valve first in case it doesn't have enough compression to actually start.
Thank You...
Yep! Also lap them with lapping compound and check and adjust the valve stem end gap clearances between the tappets/lifters too after wire wheeling off the valves to clean them up). Better valve seal = better compression and more power!
Don't care what the order is. Do it in the order that makes sense to you. This was a Coors Light video for me... Cheers my northern friend!
Thank You...
Like to see you work on them valves Steve. But what ever you do i'm sure I will learn something . Enjoy your videos, and thanks 4 the Wisdom, And Help. Peace from N.C.
I've used 3in1 multi purpose oil inside the clutch assembly, found it works quite well and its very thin and doesn't stick anything.
Great content. Take care of the valves next. Explain why you replace the bent valve with the appropriate new one.
Great suggestion!
Hey Steve,
Love the videos, like everyone else! I love the fact that you are doing a longer series on an old motor front to back. My vote is to address the valve and compression issue before the spark. Although the spark is probably less costly to dig into, no compression would probably mean you won't proceed further.
Right on
Great videos. I have the same tiller in 8hp. Same procedure???
Steven and April I, hope all is well up north. I'm down in sunny Florida, The Season's ready to take off full swing. I'd like to see you jump right into the valves. The toilet bowl cleaner for rust, hell of an idea. I've been using other products. Love the knowledge. Have a good day Steve.
Thank You...
Let’s see the valves get taken out , cleaned, and lapped in. In the meantime, you can take the starter cover back off because you’ve already done that part. This way you’ll be prepared for the next video taking the flywheel off with the flywheel removal tool, then get to the points and condenser. I also recommend maybe putting in people into and condenser again instead of converting it to electronic ignition. Many guys out there need an education on replacing the points and condenser. Old guys like me have been there done that the last 50 years, but it makes for a good video for the young bloods.
As always, excellent information. Appreciate as always. Least I can do is feed the comments with some comment chow. Thank you sir! Balls of steel.
Much appreciated
I like your style.
Thank You...
hammer and wooden stick works well on clutch removal too.
Big pipe wrench work s also
Here to learn, you're the expert do what you do, even if it takes two beers:)
Right on
Hey Steve for the grand finale can you get Bob and Doug Mckenzie for a beer hunter special ? now that would be a beauty eh ? the rebuild is a really good idea, going to learn a lot and have fun along the way.
Right on Dave!
Do the valves! I've done points ignitions before. I'm excited to see both though!
Noted!
Hey you were just on Pattay's This is old school stuff bud.
Absolutely!
Steve,
I have an idea for your video mini series. How about a rebuild of a Tecumseh OH160? These seem to be a forgotten engine. Not many in depth videos out there on them. Certainly none from professionals such as yourself. I know Tecumseh is out of business here in the states, parts are probably hard to come by. Just a thought. Thanks for the great videos!
Right on Chris! Thank You...
Ahh yes. Tecumseh engines. Always on the old Sears junky mowers. The governor (made out of plastic or pot metal) always goes out, then they throw the rod right out the side. When they run they always vibrate like hell because of poor balancing. They made good power though, had awesome compression. I'd always replace them with a good old Briggs.
@@joefudd
The OH160 in my opinion was a better engine. The one I used as a 12 year old boy helping my father was an absolute beast. They were part of Tecumsehs XL series. Yes, it was mounted to a Sears tractor, but she was a work horse.
Loving this series Steve - thanks!
You're Welcome...
Amazing how you can fix anything!
Thank You...
I need the ignition fix as a reference for my 2hp vertical project.
But the valves fix is useful too
Right on
Hey Steve. Love this series as I also have one of these old tillers. Can’t wait for the carb rebuild video. Thanks for all you do for the small engine guys out here.
Coming soon!
Wooo hoooo hello from the uk 🇬🇧. How’s it’s going me old mucker
Rock and Rollin Mick! See ya tomorrow...
Valves and compression for next video 👍
Coming soon!
Nice job
Thanks!
Nice informative video. Thanks again!!! Valves next
Right on
What ever you put up i will watch, until the next one stay safe
Thank You...
Thanks for the tip, now I know what to do..Thanks, Subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Hi Steve, do the spark next. From Norm in Sydney Australia. Regards..................
Thanks mate!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon No Prob, enjoy your show, good on ya! Norm.........
Valves mate! Thanks for your videos. Always love watching them. I have learned a bunch of info. I always like to fix my own tractor, lawnmowers and chain saws. 👍😎
Glad to help
Once again thank you Steve
You're Welcome...