@Suave House Thanks for watching. That oil is what was turning to tar in the intake. And this wasn't any good for the turbo too. Now that you have blocked off the soot from the exhaust gasses the build-up should stop. Think of the oil as maple syrup and the exhaust gasses as sand. There is no reason to force sand through your motor. You can remove the intake oil by connecting an "oil catch can" to the black hockey puck looking thing on top of your valve cover (CCV). I have a six-part video on it "VW TDI Oilly Intake CCV Fix 1 of 6 - Remove Vacuum Tank". The "Oil catch can" must be emptied at least once a year. Basically, the oil is from the CCV valve and the TDI was designed to let the oil vapors pass through the inter-cooler and pass the EGR system into the intake manifold. But, in real world usage, you get the formation of coak that in very severe situations can completely block the intake manifold. It should be noted that this oil pools at the lowest point of the intercooler, and on 2.0L TDI has been known mix with melted frost accumulations and hydro lock the motors causing thousands of dollars of damage. The 1.9L does not suffer this same problem, but a TH-cam VW specialist advocates drilling a "small" hole at the bottom of the black plastic neck after the intercooler on all VW TDI motors ("Intercooler drilling, draining & plugging = NOT a boost leak!!! ") If you don't want to drip oil on your driveway or in your garage then try the "oil catch can" instead. Let me know if you have any questions that I can help you with. TDI Love from Chicago...
@@suavehouse5150 I have installed SMF and DMF and ultra-lite Flywheels. I only had a problem with my Auto to Manual conversion because the donor starter was shot. Yes, it is a different starter. I had to buy a new starter. The solenoid to starter copper strap was grounding out to the starter body. Take the old starter out and try to kick-it with 12v and hold it tight. I had a battery pack, a power 20amp 110v jumper, and jumper cables connected to my van and the little diesel had a hard time turning and the starter would smoke and get real hot. At that point, there was little mystery that the starter was bad, but before the smoke, I thought there was a wiring problem. TDI Love from Chicago.
GallowayChicago The starter works fine from the donor car. I’m thinking it’s the cable from the ignition to the automatic shifter? It’s just hanging from the ignition. Will it start with the stock computer without the vag-com
hi, next time you have a cilinder full of oil you can just remove the glow plug and use a large syringe to remove the oil (just an idea/ never tried it). regards
Hello, brother. Nice video. My DMF has almost faded and it needs replacing. I am thinking of getting a SMF. The car has almost 250 000 miles on it. Can you give me an advice for the model of the SMF I need to get? Are they that different? I am in the Eastern Europe, not USA. The vehicle is Golf Mk 5 1.9 TDI 90bhp.
@@k.b1596 The gears are not just "sharp" they are jarring to the entire drivetrain. If it were a All-wheel-drive maybe you could spread out the torque. Knowing what I do now about putting SMF in these DMF diesels I would highly recommend a complete and affordable DMF kit. The SMF will over work your motor mounts and all your bushings too. I tried installing polyurethane bushings but they were designed for race track usage and not everyday. It is true that if you want over 120 Flbs of torque (bigger turbos and larger injectors) that a DMF will not hold and if you are putting together a high performance TDI a SMF is needed but if it is your daily driver I urge you to reconsider install any SMFs. I remember just being wore out after driving in stop-and-go city traffic and eventually switched all SMF converted clutches back to DMFs. TDI Love from Chicago.
I was wondering the same thing. I though a lighter flywheel should be easier to start and stop and should result in more MPG or faster speeds. ANSWER: NO... I bought a ultr-lite 10 lb SMF flywheel and none of the above was true. A weighted flywheel starts the diesel better. A weighted flywheel balances better for higher RPMs. A weighted flywheel does not make odd noises. A weighted flywheel in general "feels" better. Needless to say, I remove the ultra-lite SMF flywheel and can only see it useful in a mid-speed (40s-50s) long-distance track usage. (TDI Love from Chicago)
Hello thank you for the video. What cause your turbo shaft to fail? The rattling off the engine after single mass why wheel clutch kit installed? My Jetta has 55,000 miles is a 2.0 L tdi 6 speed MT the slave cylinder failed so I decided to replace the whole clutch assembly with stage 1 single Mass flywheel clutch kit, the engine idles loud but no issues watch when I drive around 2,000 rpms I get vibrations fifth and sixth gear is very very loud and it why braid super hard around 2000 RPM right after replacing the clutch check engine light started coming on and off if it calls for Turbo boost sensor out of range. Can the engine vibrations cause that? Thanks ahead for your response
Thanks for watching. Vibrations can be caused by bad motor mounts. My turbo went bad because of oil consumption. We were using the right high quality synthetic oil but the turbo can not cool properly when oil level is low. The center motor mount (or dog-bone) will cause motor travel when shifting between gears. This can break the exhaust system. The side motor mounts can cause a running vibration and a banging when turning while moving. Single-Mass flywheels are harder and louder and require a break-in period. It is just how they are. If your vibration is rhythmic or has a repeating sound based on rotation then you my have an out of balance flywheel (i.e. wap, wap, wap, wap). An out of balance or off center flywheel can cause a lot of problems and should be corrected sooner rather then later. OH!, and to answer your question YES vibration can cause a CEL (check engine light) by triggering the knock sensor. If the vibration are strong enough. Good luck and stay safe. TDI Love from Chicago...
Thank you very much for this very useful information I will remove the clutch and inspect for any damage or abnormal wear on the flywheel, and will definitely check out the engine mounts before doing anything else.
Good Video man. The noise my dual mass flywheel makes is like a steam train chugging along. It disappears when temp reaches 90 degrees celcius. It's so fucking annoying. I blew up the gearbox in my Mk4 Golf 6 months ago and I suppose I should get the car fixed now and will change to SMF as I have always wanted. Not looking forward to doing it alone, trying to maneuver the gearbox in. That's why it's sat so long.
Thanks for the info & sharing. Does that single work in the DSG(?) Automatic? Will it work in my 2006 1.9tdi? What brand/s is that? Does LuC sell it? - thanks man
Hi I have a problem during igniting the switch niose observed at flywheel after re assembled fresh fly wheel noise was remove old part Mark on rim teeth
If Starter works your flywheel should be the right size. I think your problem is that the flywheel is not seated correctly (One or more of the bolts were completely tightened down before the others). Your flywheel might be unbalanced, or your main crankshaft might be bent. Remove trans and rotate crank by hand (best if you have a helper). Look at flywheel for alignment. As you rotate the flywheel the spacing between the engine casing and the flywheel should remain the same all the way around. Next, remove the flywheel and check bolts and center alignment (it only goes on one way). Sorry, the only answer is to disassemble and try again. Hope that helps. sorry if this does not translate well. Good luck . Love from Chicago.
Hi , i just installed the conversion Single Mass Flywhee what i bought on Internet for my Golf 5 1.9TDI 105hp 2004 and the second day i found Oil on the floor. Is looking like oil from the transmission.... What can be happened?
Thank for watching. FYI: My video was just an experiment because my flywheel had failed and I was putting in bigger injectors and a larger diesel pump. Being an old-school mechanic I thought with more power a new DMF would fail. But I was WRONG! There, I admitted it. The New DMF are amazing. They are much better made and can hold a lot of power (not for racing or beating on). and they are easier to install too. Does your new single mass vibrate at idle or at any speed while driving? These manual transmissions don't require a lot of gear oil, so, I would check the level to make sure you didn't just overfill it. Also the newer DMF sold on Amazon can hold up to 125hp when new and are easier on the drivetrain. As long as you are not "Tracking" this Golf. I would highly suggest putting a DMF in for a daily driver. The DMF crap in my video was all OEM and the new OEM is 1,000% better. I ultimately changed the SMF in the video for a DMF and it made stop-and-go traffic bearable again. "Besides; one of my legs was getting huge." lol But I was concerned about adding HP and using the stock DMF too. It is hard get solid info on if the DMF can hold higher HP and how much HP they can hold. I will tell you one thing... if you have oil on your clutch you will have to unfortunately open the case again and make sure you are not wetting the clutch. I would not wait until it starts slipping. I am a driveway mechanic with a little direct experience and I hate doing the job but I love knowing that the job was done by my hands. (Hot Tip:) Reset all you bolts/nuts with RTV and not Locktite(tm). This will save your life and a ton of money if you are doing motor mounts or trans work. I have seen bolts work their way out and shear off just from diesel vibration. Lat tip: There is a new class of motor oil that is not VW TDI approved yet but I have used it and it is amazing in diesels. It is "GF-6A 5W-20". It is designed to suspend particulate, stop water, stop rust, lub the valves, and clean the engine and turbos of sludge and varnish. I know we all though that all motor oils already did this, but that was all just marketing hype in the past. I wish you luck but I would go back to DMF... TDI Love from Chicago
+Dustin Krautheim Thanks for watching. I actually pulled the oil pan to see if any of the rods were bent while turning the crank by hand. Only problem was the crank would not turn and hold its forward position. It would bounce like there was a spring or springs in the calendars. Had I know there was oil in there and been thinking I would have been all over your suggestion. But I was so aw struck by the bouncing that I turned and held the crank and that is when the oil slowly pushed past the rings and dumped all over my face and flashlight. For a run-a-way I got off easy. It was not a major rebuild. That TDI is still on the road today. If you can keep them from rusting they will last forever. You can buy a good condition 5-speed 1999-2002 Golf/Jetta/Bug 1.9L TDI for around $3,500 US and within a 1 to 2 year(s) (depending on your driving) the car will have paid for itself in service and fuel savings. TDI Love from Chicago... Remember always use Synthetic oil in Turbos big & small.
No. Not because it didn't work but because it is more expensive then the more dependable OEM replacement Duel-Mass Flywheels. As it turns out the OEM DMF were trash with too much slop causing early failures. The only reason to install a SMF is for "High" performance or Track racing. Thanks for watching. TDI love from Chicago.
My dual mass flywheel is slowly running away. Can i repleace it for single mass flywheel? It is 2002 alh engine. Can it cause some demage in engine or transmission?
Thanks for watching. YES. You can replace your DM-Flywheel with a SM-Flywheel. But keep in mind that you will have to change the Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bolts, and throw-out bearing too, Most Kits have everything you need. I found out the hard way that you should never buy/use a used flywheel or an ultra lite (16lbs or less) flywheel. The ALH operating tolerances are too tight to have a used flywheel resurfaced and still perform well. Amazon has many SM and DM 1.9L ALH kits. Since making, this video a lot of the DM defects have been addressed and corrected. So, The new-er DM-Flywheel kits are easier to install, better balanced, and most plastic parts that are prone to breakage have been removed... also the DM-Flywheels are cheaper. I particularly like the LuK 17-050. It is a DM that can handle light tuning, but if you intend on doing heavy tuning to add speed and torque that a SM is a must and I would recommend the 36lb Southeast Clutch model number 17-059SMF. Keep in mind that the SM will usually have a stiffer(harder) clutch pedal and for some, this is tough on day-to-day driving. I have installed several of the 34.5lb DM Luk 17-050 assemblies and they perform well. I really like the Luk's easy bolt down design with no centering necessary. Remember to pay close attention to the motor mounts. These ALH mounts like to strip. I usually fill the holes with RTV silicone before putting the bolts back in. That stops them from backing out due to vibration. The bolts do not stretch, but instead, the aluminum threads on the mount give way. The silicone only serves to hold the bolt still and cushion the vibrations, but if the threads are gone then you will have to replace the months. TDI Love from Chicago... Where Spring has returned.
The new dual-mass assemblies are much more reliable and very easy to install. The OEM sets had real problems that were never taken care of by any recalls. If you are not putting bigger injectors, pistons, or a massive new turbo in you do not need a single-mass flywheel. TDI Love from Chicago... Keep it roll'n
Thanks for watching. I originally thought that the timing was off. I had never seen a hydrostatic lock motor before. Live and learn. The dip stick showed no oil once the run-a-way was stopped. Kudos to VW designers for the EGR Valve (not for the water cooler junk, but the ERG valve itself will stop a run-a-way). Live, Learn,. Teach... Repeat....
GallowayChicago I think that's the anti-shudder valve, shuts off air to the intake...how did the runaway engine finally stop? my sons car had the oil seals go bad on his TDI, but the oil leaked into the exhaust side...making huge smoke...
knikula My wife was driving an when the turbo shaft seal went, the oil was drawn where the highest vacuum was... the intake. It was enough smoke to cloud an entire city block in thick white smoke. I had done an EGR delete but I did not remove the EGR/Anti-Shudder valve for this very reason. This valve will stop a run-a-way. And that is what it did. my wife simply turned the car off, because the RMPs went as high as they could but her foot was not on the accelerator pedal. The TDI is a 5-speed so she pulled it out of gear and then turned the key off. She though the accelerator pedal was stuck. So she turned the car back on and drove home before it did it again right in front of the our house. That is when I tried to start it again and popped off the flywheel starter teeth. Between the time when she last stopped the car and the time I tried to start it, all the intake oil had pooled in the open cylinder locking the engine. I did not change the timing belt, but I think I should now because I think it stretched The car runs fine now but is on the harder to start side.
U answered all the questions that i have been trying to find accurate info on. Thank u.
@Suave House Thanks for watching. That oil is what was turning to tar in the intake. And this wasn't any good for the turbo too. Now that you have blocked off the soot from the exhaust gasses the build-up should stop. Think of the oil as maple syrup and the exhaust gasses as sand. There is no reason to force sand through your motor. You can remove the intake oil by connecting an "oil catch can" to the black hockey puck looking thing on top of your valve cover (CCV). I have a six-part video on it "VW TDI Oilly Intake CCV Fix 1 of 6 - Remove Vacuum Tank". The "Oil catch can" must be emptied at least once a year. Basically, the oil is from the CCV valve and the TDI was designed to let the oil vapors pass through the inter-cooler and pass the EGR system into the intake manifold. But, in real world usage, you get the formation of coak that in very severe situations can completely block the intake manifold. It should be noted that this oil pools at the lowest point of the intercooler, and on 2.0L TDI has been known mix with melted frost accumulations and hydro lock the motors causing thousands of dollars of damage. The 1.9L does not suffer this same problem, but a TH-cam VW specialist advocates drilling a "small" hole at the bottom of the black plastic neck after the intercooler on all VW TDI motors ("Intercooler drilling, draining & plugging = NOT a boost leak!!!
") If you don't want to drip oil on your driveway or in your garage then try the "oil catch can" instead. Let me know if you have any questions that I can help you with.
TDI Love from Chicago...
GallowayChicago
Hey buddy the manual swap is finally done today! Lol been lagging. Did the SMF Valeo clutch kit.
@@suavehouse5150 How does it drive?
GallowayChicago
No the starter is not engaging.
@@suavehouse5150 I have installed SMF and DMF and ultra-lite Flywheels. I only had a problem with my Auto to Manual conversion because the donor starter was shot. Yes, it is a different starter. I had to buy a new starter. The solenoid to starter copper strap was grounding out to the starter body. Take the old starter out and try to kick-it with 12v and hold it tight. I had a battery pack, a power 20amp 110v jumper, and jumper cables connected to my van and the little diesel had a hard time turning and the starter would smoke and get real hot. At that point, there was little mystery that the starter was bad, but before the smoke, I thought there was a wiring problem.
TDI Love from Chicago.
GallowayChicago
The starter works fine from the donor car. I’m thinking it’s the cable from the ignition to the automatic shifter? It’s just hanging from the ignition. Will it start with the stock computer without the vag-com
Thanks alot for your informative reply God bless you
hi, next time you have a cilinder full of oil you can just remove the glow plug and use a large syringe to remove the oil (just an idea/ never tried it). regards
Hello, brother. Nice video.
My DMF has almost faded and it needs replacing. I am thinking of getting a SMF. The car has almost 250 000 miles on it.
Can you give me an advice for the model of the SMF I need to get? Are they that different?
I am in the Eastern Europe, not USA.
The vehicle is Golf Mk 5 1.9 TDI 90bhp.
DO NOT INSTALL A SMF. The new DMF are very good, affordable, and easy to install.
@@GallowayChicago Thank you!
@@GallowayChicago i have drive both type of flywheels on e46 diesel and single mass feels sharp when shifting gears especially from 1 to 2 gear.
@@k.b1596 The gears are not just "sharp" they are jarring to the entire drivetrain. If it were a All-wheel-drive maybe you could spread out the torque. Knowing what I do now about putting SMF in these DMF diesels I would highly recommend a complete and affordable DMF kit. The SMF will over work your motor mounts and all your bushings too. I tried installing polyurethane bushings but they were designed for race track usage and not everyday. It is true that if you want over 120 Flbs of torque (bigger turbos and larger injectors) that a DMF will not hold and if you are putting together a high performance TDI a SMF is needed but if it is your daily driver I urge you to reconsider install any SMFs. I remember just being wore out after driving in stop-and-go city traffic and eventually switched all SMF converted clutches back to DMFs.
TDI Love from Chicago.
Do you know if there is a weight saving over a standard DMF, fitting a standard SMF?
I was wondering the same thing. I though a lighter flywheel should be easier to start and stop and should result in more MPG or faster speeds. ANSWER: NO... I bought a ultr-lite 10 lb SMF flywheel and none of the above was true. A weighted flywheel starts the diesel better. A weighted flywheel balances better for higher RPMs. A weighted flywheel does not make odd noises. A weighted flywheel in general "feels" better. Needless to say, I remove the ultra-lite SMF flywheel and can only see it useful in a mid-speed (40s-50s) long-distance track usage. (TDI Love from Chicago)
Hello thank you for the video. What cause your turbo shaft to fail? The rattling off the engine after single mass why wheel clutch kit installed? My Jetta has 55,000 miles is a 2.0 L tdi 6 speed MT the slave cylinder failed so I decided to replace the whole clutch assembly with stage 1 single Mass flywheel clutch kit, the engine idles loud but no issues watch when I drive around 2,000 rpms I get vibrations fifth and sixth gear is very very loud and it why braid super hard around 2000 RPM right after replacing the clutch check engine light started coming on and off if it calls for Turbo boost sensor out of range. Can the engine vibrations cause that? Thanks ahead for your response
Thanks for watching. Vibrations can be caused by bad motor mounts. My turbo went bad because of oil consumption. We were using the right high quality synthetic oil but the turbo can not cool properly when oil level is low. The center motor mount (or dog-bone) will cause motor travel when shifting between gears. This can break the exhaust system. The side motor mounts can cause a running vibration and a banging when turning while moving. Single-Mass flywheels are harder and louder and require a break-in period. It is just how they are. If your vibration is rhythmic or has a repeating sound based on rotation then you my have an out of balance flywheel (i.e. wap, wap, wap, wap). An out of balance or off center flywheel can cause a lot of problems and should be corrected sooner rather then later. OH!, and to answer your question YES vibration can cause a CEL (check engine light) by triggering the knock sensor. If the vibration are strong enough. Good luck and stay safe.
TDI Love from Chicago...
Thank you very much for this very useful information I will remove the clutch and inspect for any damage or abnormal wear on the flywheel, and will definitely check out the engine mounts before doing anything else.
Good Video man.
The noise my dual mass flywheel makes is like a steam train chugging along. It disappears when temp reaches 90 degrees celcius. It's so fucking annoying.
I blew up the gearbox in my Mk4 Golf 6 months ago and I suppose I should get the car fixed now and will change to SMF as I have always wanted. Not looking forward to doing it alone, trying to maneuver the gearbox in. That's why it's sat so long.
Thanks for the info & sharing. Does that single work in the DSG(?) Automatic? Will it work in my 2006 1.9tdi? What brand/s is that? Does LuC sell it? - thanks man
Hi I have a problem during igniting the switch niose observed at flywheel after re assembled fresh fly wheel noise was remove old part Mark on rim teeth
If Starter works your flywheel should be the right size. I think your problem is that the flywheel is not seated correctly (One or more of the bolts were completely tightened down before the others). Your flywheel might be unbalanced, or your main crankshaft might be bent. Remove trans and rotate crank by hand (best if you have a helper). Look at flywheel for alignment. As you rotate the flywheel the spacing between the engine casing and the flywheel should remain the same all the way around. Next, remove the flywheel and check bolts and center alignment (it only goes on one way). Sorry, the only answer is to disassemble and try again.
Hope that helps. sorry if this does not translate well. Good luck .
Love from Chicago.
Hi , i just installed the conversion Single Mass Flywhee what i bought on Internet for my Golf 5 1.9TDI 105hp 2004 and the second day i found Oil on the floor. Is looking like oil from the transmission.... What can be happened?
Thank for watching. FYI: My video was just an experiment because my flywheel had failed and I was putting in bigger injectors and a larger diesel pump. Being an old-school mechanic I thought with more power a new DMF would fail. But I was WRONG! There, I admitted it. The New DMF are amazing. They are much better made and can hold a lot of power (not for racing or beating on). and they are easier to install too.
Does your new single mass vibrate at idle or at any speed while driving? These manual transmissions don't require a lot of gear oil, so, I would check the level to make sure you didn't just overfill it. Also the newer DMF sold on Amazon can hold up to 125hp when new and are easier on the drivetrain. As long as you are not "Tracking" this Golf. I would highly suggest putting a DMF in for a daily driver. The DMF crap in my video was all OEM and the new OEM is 1,000% better. I ultimately changed the SMF in the video for a DMF and it made stop-and-go traffic bearable again. "Besides; one of my legs was getting huge." lol
But I was concerned about adding HP and using the stock DMF too. It is hard get solid info on if the DMF can hold higher HP and how much HP they can hold. I will tell you one thing... if you have oil on your clutch you will have to unfortunately open the case again and make sure you are not wetting the clutch. I would not wait until it starts slipping. I am a driveway mechanic with a little direct experience and I hate doing the job but I love knowing that the job was done by my hands. (Hot Tip:) Reset all you bolts/nuts with RTV and not Locktite(tm). This will save your life and a ton of money if you are doing motor mounts or trans work. I have seen bolts work their way out and shear off just from diesel vibration. Lat tip: There is a new class of motor oil that is not VW TDI approved yet but I have used it and it is amazing in diesels. It is "GF-6A 5W-20". It is designed to suspend particulate, stop water, stop rust, lub the valves, and clean the engine and turbos of sludge and varnish. I know we all though that all motor oils already did this, but that was all just marketing hype in the past.
I wish you luck but I would go back to DMF... TDI Love from Chicago
Dang man, how much green $$ did that fancy shmancy 9Lb composite cost?
Next time you have a hydrolock pull the glow plugs out and then crank it over(it is messy but a whole lot faster)
+Dustin Krautheim Thanks for watching.
I actually pulled the oil pan to see if any of the rods were bent while turning the crank by hand. Only problem was the crank would not turn and hold its forward position. It would bounce like there was a spring or springs in the calendars. Had I know there was oil in there and been thinking I would have been all over your suggestion. But I was so aw struck by the bouncing that I turned and held the crank and that is when the oil slowly pushed past the rings and dumped all over my face and flashlight. For a run-a-way I got off easy. It was not a major rebuild. That TDI is still on the road today. If you can keep them from rusting they will last forever. You can buy a good condition 5-speed 1999-2002 Golf/Jetta/Bug 1.9L TDI for around $3,500 US and within a 1 to 2 year(s) (depending on your driving) the car will have paid for itself in service and fuel savings.
TDI Love from Chicago... Remember always use Synthetic oil in Turbos big & small.
Do you still have it on?
No. Not because it didn't work but because it is more expensive then the more dependable OEM replacement Duel-Mass Flywheels. As it turns out the OEM DMF were trash with too much slop causing early failures. The only reason to install a SMF is for "High" performance or Track racing.
Thanks for watching. TDI love from Chicago.
My dual mass flywheel is slowly running away. Can i repleace it for single mass flywheel? It is 2002 alh engine. Can it cause some demage in engine or transmission?
Thanks for watching. YES. You can replace your DM-Flywheel with a SM-Flywheel. But keep in mind that you will have to change the Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bolts, and throw-out bearing too, Most Kits have everything you need. I found out the hard way that you should never buy/use a used flywheel or an ultra lite (16lbs or less) flywheel. The ALH operating tolerances are too tight to have a used flywheel resurfaced and still perform well. Amazon has many SM and DM 1.9L ALH kits. Since making, this video a lot of the DM defects have been addressed and corrected. So, The new-er DM-Flywheel kits are easier to install, better balanced, and most plastic parts that are prone to breakage have been removed... also the DM-Flywheels are cheaper. I particularly like the LuK 17-050. It is a DM that can handle light tuning, but if you intend on doing heavy tuning to add speed and torque that a SM is a must and I would recommend the 36lb Southeast Clutch model number 17-059SMF. Keep in mind that the SM will usually have a stiffer(harder) clutch pedal and for some, this is tough on day-to-day driving. I have installed several of the 34.5lb DM Luk 17-050 assemblies and they perform well. I really like the Luk's easy bolt down design with no centering necessary. Remember to pay close attention to the motor mounts. These ALH mounts like to strip. I usually fill the holes with RTV silicone before putting the bolts back in. That stops them from backing out due to vibration. The bolts do not stretch, but instead, the aluminum threads on the mount give way. The silicone only serves to hold the bolt still and cushion the vibrations, but if the threads are gone then you will have to replace the months.
TDI Love from Chicago... Where Spring has returned.
@@GallowayChicago GallowayChicago thank you so much for your answer. I mean, i will use SM flywheel, becouse it is less expensive for my 16y car.
diesel runaway =O too bad. What was the mileage?
hi on the tdi afn engine what Size is the 12 point torx holding the dmf on. also do you have any tips for replacing it. thanks luke
What single mass flywheel should I buy for my conversation?
The new dual-mass assemblies are much more reliable and very easy to install. The OEM sets had real problems that were never taken care of by any recalls. If you are not putting bigger injectors, pistons, or a massive new turbo in you do not need a single-mass flywheel.
TDI Love from Chicago... Keep it roll'n
thanks for sharing...good stuff...ripped those teeth right off? impressive...
Thanks for watching.
I originally thought that the timing was off. I had never seen a hydrostatic lock motor before. Live and learn. The dip stick showed no oil once the run-a-way was stopped. Kudos to VW designers for the EGR Valve (not for the water cooler junk, but the ERG valve itself will stop a run-a-way).
Live, Learn,. Teach... Repeat....
GallowayChicago I think that's the anti-shudder valve, shuts off air to the intake...how did the runaway engine finally stop? my sons car had the oil seals go bad on his TDI, but the oil leaked into the exhaust side...making huge smoke...
knikula duh, the valve worked...my bad...how high did it rev before the ECU shut it down?
knikula My wife was driving an when the turbo shaft seal went, the oil was drawn where the highest vacuum was... the intake. It was enough smoke to cloud an entire city block in thick white smoke. I had done an EGR delete but I did not remove the EGR/Anti-Shudder valve for this very reason. This valve will stop a run-a-way. And that is what it did. my wife simply turned the car off, because the RMPs went as high as they could but her foot was not on the accelerator pedal. The TDI is a 5-speed so she pulled it out of gear and then turned the key off. She though the accelerator pedal was stuck. So she turned the car back on and drove home before it did it again right in front of the our house. That is when I tried to start it again and popped off the flywheel starter teeth. Between the time when she last stopped the car and the time I tried to start it, all the intake oil had pooled in the open cylinder locking the engine. I did not change the timing belt, but I think I should now because I think it stretched The car runs fine now but is on the harder to start side.
GallowayChicago a ton of good experience in this thread, thanks again.