Holddowns on the tablesaw for cutting rebates is a new one to me, quite surprised this video hasn't been mentioned yet on the forums. Many thanks for posting Trevanion. 🙂
The best machine in this video was the Multico mortiser. I have the exact same model except its three phase. An excellent machine. Again however I have to take exception with some of his techniques and set up. It's always advisable to cut both ends of the mortise first so that the chisel is not subjected to side bending forces which could cause the auger to rub and squeal. Make as many cuts as you can with meat on both sides, then waste out the remainder such that its less than the total width of the chisel. Never work the chisel harder than you have to. The chip exhaust slot should face forward to avoid it spilling chip's in to the mortise and choking the chisel up. But the most important thing is to put some oil in the top of chisel after you have started it up to stop it squealing and getting hot. The auger will hold the oil from dripping down in to the mortise. Far to many people believe you should not lubricate the auger but that's asking for trouble. Heat blunts tools far quicker and causes galling on the auger shaft. The setting of the gap between the auger and the chisel is vital. At least 3mm. If your making smoke or squealing it's not set right. Never scrub the bottom of the mortise by dragging it at full depth. You will destroy the chisel and auger.
Hmm. By and large he is giving good advice but cutting tenon shoulder's on the bandsaw is pretty sloppy and not very accurate, especially on a startrite. Never was a big fan of startrite machinery, rather cheap and nasty. The startrite joiner thicknesser was actually quite badly out of adjustment and the blades were not to sharp either ! He really did not give what I would consider proper detailed instruction on setting the blade guides which is so critical to proper function. Ah well. Rarely if ever have I used mitre gauges. To sloppy and clumsy.
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Love the old videos. No dramas and unnecessary talks. Always to the point.
The fingerbitten phantom strikes again with safe craftsmanship! R.I.P Roy!
I saw an old man, and had to check it out.
He would be disappointed, my guards and riving knives are long gone
Holddowns on the tablesaw for cutting rebates is a new one to me, quite surprised this video hasn't been mentioned yet on the forums. Many thanks for posting Trevanion. 🙂
Some Good useful information on this video Trevanion for beginners, from a genuine craftsman. RIP Roy. Tony
Sweet sweet juicy nectar dribbling down my chin. Thanks!
Brilliant! What a joy to watch! Thank you for sharing this with us!
Un verdadero profesional
The best machine in this video was the Multico mortiser. I have the exact same model except its three phase. An excellent machine.
Again however I have to take exception with some of his techniques and set up. It's always advisable to cut both ends of the mortise first so that the chisel is not subjected to side bending forces which could cause the auger to rub and squeal. Make as many cuts as you can with meat on both sides, then waste out the remainder such that its less than the total width of the chisel. Never work the chisel harder than you have to.
The chip exhaust slot should face forward to avoid it spilling chip's in to the mortise and choking the chisel up. But the most important thing is to put some oil in the top of chisel after you have started it up to stop it squealing and getting hot. The auger will hold the oil from dripping down in to the mortise. Far to many people believe you should not lubricate the auger but that's asking for trouble. Heat blunts tools far quicker and causes galling on the auger shaft.
The setting of the gap between the auger and the chisel is vital. At least 3mm. If your making smoke or squealing it's not set right.
Never scrub the bottom of the mortise by dragging it at full depth.
You will destroy the chisel and auger.
🙄 ρяσмσѕм
Hmm. By and large he is giving good advice but cutting tenon shoulder's on the bandsaw is pretty sloppy and not very accurate, especially on a startrite.
Never was a big fan of startrite machinery, rather cheap and nasty.
The startrite joiner thicknesser was actually quite badly out of adjustment and the blades were not to sharp either !
He really did not give what I would consider proper detailed instruction on setting the blade guides which is so critical to proper function. Ah well.
Rarely if ever have I used mitre gauges. To sloppy and clumsy.