WELL DONE for your first prototype, there's a lot precision features to deal with . Don't worry you will get better and faster has the time goes and build up real good skills in TOOL AND DIES MAKING :) Can't wait for your next vid the suspense is killing me :)
If you use a spotting drill, the point angle is greater so the normal drill bit will always end up in the centre rather than a 60deg drill where the entire surface of the 1mm drill flute is coming into contact with the surface which can lead to wandering.
That is some phenomenal machine work…my grandfather was much like you with that sort of thing. He was quite an amazing machinist…and I wish I could’ve learned more from him before he got to where he couldn’t do it anymore!
Looking good. My only concern would be needing some draft angle on the side of the top half of the mold for extraction. I tried to cheat on the molds I was working on last time I wrote and ended up with the pressed piece stuck in the top half of the mold. Also you may need an ejection method on the top like you have on the bottom as its a 50/50 chance it will get stuck there too. It will eliminate the risk of pulling from the exhaust tube to remove the part which increases risk of breakage. After my setback on the wafer mold I turned my attention back to by 7 pin flat press stem tool and completed it. I made a few test parts but they wound up overheated and I need to rig up a different burner arrangement for more consistent results. Also I need to improve the flare holding clamp as they tended to be pushed one way or the other during pressing making crooked flares. Otherwise they seem to work with either 3 part dumet or nickel-iron leads equally as well. Once I can make them consistently with a minimum of expiative phrases I will try to make a video.
Oh and don't be tempted to press glass before polishing out the machine marks. The hot glass loves to stick to them. I know it's hard not to do but I have had to chisel off a few clumps of glass because I wanted to see if something would work.
🙏! I did first few attempts.. and.. 1. I realized I forgot the draft angle, 2. Polishing will be needed, 3. More clearance needed between the parts. Stay tuned for the next video - matching glass tubing ordered, hopefully arrives soon. Cheers!
I will never not be amazed by the absolute precision and work that goes into making mechanical parts and machining in general. I've had some interest in making some projects for myself (like figuring out a way to make a modern day reel to reel tape machine with greater playback speed precision), but that's maybe for another day as that requires a lot of learning, nevermind the money. In the meantime I'll appreciate the work that others like you do, lol.
@@daliborfarny that's more impressive, I've destroyed tools doing that. Thanks for all your content, hopefully one day I'll be able to afford se of your nixie tubes (built a project in undergrad with German tubes, super cool)
It's supercool to see it made. Also, supercool that there's almost no cantering play. Do you plan to polish the mold, btw? As to the play of pins, as it's tiny, you may consider electroplating the mold (it would shrink holes tiny bit only and add a mirror finish). But it's an overkill as with all my suggestions :D. Can't wait to see it being tried with glass.
@@daliborfarny Polishing will help, but hopefully you also have allowed enough slope on the mating parts so that they will not stick together. Easy enough when your CNC files are done to put your logo into the one side as relief, so that you get a raised logo, though it will have to be shallow and not too narrow. Then polish with diamond paste to get a near mirror finish.
@@daliborfarnyOne remark on play of the pins, as it worries me that it may become a bit bigger due to thermal expansion. You could press fit circular wire connectors in the mold. It would have to be more bulky, but would assure equal length and as little play as possible. They are spring loaded like here: www.e-tec.com/v5/documents/catalogs/IC-10.pdf
What alloy are the tube's pins made from? Tempco of expansion would be a big deal. Has to be malleable enough to prevent excess leverage stresses where the pin meets the glass.
Glass forming with machines is something I wish was more often talked about in the maker community. I guess its because glassworking has a kinda high financial barrier of entry. Hope that changes in the future.
Wonderful design and beautiful work! But why does it have to spin? Wouldn't the mold work just as well in a static mount? Also, you don't need pecking on cast iron because chip evacuation is excellent as you saw.
The spinning helps with uniform heating of the glass inside, it is a proven technique. Otherwise flames would have to rotate around it.. I like the pecking as it is safer to drill with it, but you are right for cast iron :-)
Will you PVD the piece in platinum? Platinum really doesnt stick to glass. You can make glass biscuit with a platinum mold, the glass just pops when cold
Just a suggestion. Instead of guessing the speed. Check the manufacturers recommend feeds and speeds. Also. Smaller carbide mills in steel typically like a lille coolant/lube. Dark cutting oil does ok. It helps with chatter more often than not. Absorbs some of the energy and helps to reduce drag in the cut. Also helps the bit last much longer.
@DUIofPhysics If you say so. Those cuts looked like crap. Speeds and feeds were never where they should be. By the way. I worked in a machine shop machining scroll compressors. Cast iron. With out coolant or not enough flow the finish and finish tolerance couldn't be met. Try a thin misting coolant to minimize mess, but till coolant or lube is added the finish will always suck. Decades of experience.
Cutting the cast iron on this cnc router is a bit tricky, it is not designed to do ferrous material. The endmills are certainly able to run faster, but the machine is not rigid enough.. cast iton should be run dry, but I will give it a try with mist cooling - I have it set up. It is so easy to clean the machine when the chips/dust are not wet and sticky from the coolant :-)
@daliborfarny Simply issue of matching feeds and speeds. Does not matter the machine. Every tool has a sweet spot. And it's usually printed on a chart. Plug those numbers in to start with. Then tweak slightly. Not by 2000 rpm increments. 300 rpm can make a huge difference. And those high rpms generate a lot more heat and drag due the there simply more revelutions. So by adding a little oil that reduces friction. And allows the mill and tue part to dissipate heat from the surface much better. Literally a few drops of dark cutting oil or a misting of coolant would change everything. All I'm saying.
Thank you for the tips, I am hungry for all best practices that people share.. I should be running the machine at lower rpms and deeper cut, but I have high speed spindle.. perfect for AL, hacky for steel/cast iron. So I lower the cutting depth and increase rpm - searching for minimum chatter. Will try the mist lubrication!
@@daliborfarny Thank you for the clarification. Still, this is for sealing at the point of contact with the glass. It seems that uranium glass was previously used for this purpose, if I’m not mistaken.
Absolutně jsem nepochopil na co se tato věc využívá. Mozna to je mnou, protoze jsem cele video proskákal a mozna to take ve videu bylo řečeno. Ale stejně by mě to zajímalo. :)
Круто! Я в России , у нас ещё склады СССР не оскудели. ИН4 покупаю за 400RU. Все заводы ( в том числе и "Светлана" - ламповая техника 6П14П и т.д. ) пошли под нож😢😢.
Thanks 😂 it's impossible to tell if there is a voice-over or not if you can only watch muted, I just assume I am missing out of the little CC button is disabled 🤷♂️
OMFG, I'm doing PLA 3D printing tonight, and it's not going well, and y'all are FREAKIN ME OUT..... lol Wait, WHAT? I Have to WAIT for glasssssssss???????????????? holy hell, back to my stupid plastic....
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Impressive! Re-creating the lost technology several decades old. I'm damn impressed. That's some nice CNC action.
Now *this* is craftsmanship, 👏🏼Bravo to you and your team ! 🎉
Amazing work. You guys are building tools that will last a lifetime too... Don't forget that, it will live on long past we do.
Thats more to the point than you think :-)
The whole CNC sequence is like a thriller )
The surface finish you are getting from the CNC router is very impressive!
I am getting extremely excited seeing this progress! Well done!
WELL DONE for your first prototype, there's a lot precision features to deal with . Don't worry you will get better and faster has the time goes and build up real good skills in TOOL AND DIES MAKING :) Can't wait for your next vid the suspense is killing me :)
Nice ! Can't wait for the molten glass ! Thanks a lot for these videos !
It's looking really good! It also looks like you fixed some of the previous runout.
If you use a spotting drill, the point angle is greater so the normal drill bit will always end up in the centre rather than a 60deg drill where the entire surface of the 1mm drill flute is coming into contact with the surface which can lead to wandering.
Amazing work! Great tolerances!
Thanks again for the video Dalibor!
That is some phenomenal machine work…my grandfather was much like you with that sort of thing. He was quite an amazing machinist…and I wish I could’ve learned more from him before he got to where he couldn’t do it anymore!
Looking good. My only concern would be needing some draft angle on the side of the top half of the mold for extraction. I tried to cheat on the molds I was working on last time I wrote and ended up with the pressed piece stuck in the top half of the mold. Also you may need an ejection method on the top like you have on the bottom as its a 50/50 chance it will get stuck there too. It will eliminate the risk of pulling from the exhaust tube to remove the part which increases risk of breakage. After my setback on the wafer mold I turned my attention back to by 7 pin flat press stem tool and completed it. I made a few test parts but they wound up overheated and I need to rig up a different burner arrangement for more consistent results. Also I need to improve the flare holding clamp as they tended to be pushed one way or the other during pressing making crooked flares. Otherwise they seem to work with either 3 part dumet or nickel-iron leads equally as well. Once I can make them consistently with a minimum of expiative phrases I will try to make a video.
Oh and don't be tempted to press glass before polishing out the machine marks. The hot glass loves to stick to them. I know it's hard not to do but I have had to chisel off a few clumps of glass because I wanted to see if something would work.
🙏! I did first few attempts.. and.. 1. I realized I forgot the draft angle, 2. Polishing will be needed, 3. More clearance needed between the parts. Stay tuned for the next video - matching glass tubing ordered, hopefully arrives soon. Cheers!
I will never not be amazed by the absolute precision and work that goes into making mechanical parts and machining in general. I've had some interest in making some projects for myself (like figuring out a way to make a modern day reel to reel tape machine with greater playback speed precision), but that's maybe for another day as that requires a lot of learning, nevermind the money. In the meantime I'll appreciate the work that others like you do, lol.
The crash at 8:35 was, uhh, impressive
And the endmill survived!
I always thought that such mistakes could only happen to me
@@daliborfarny that's more impressive, I've destroyed tools doing that. Thanks for all your content, hopefully one day I'll be able to afford se of your nixie tubes (built a project in undergrad with German tubes, super cool)
So excited to see this thing in action!
Crazy stuff, love your work, love you. Thank you😊
It's supercool to see it made. Also, supercool that there's almost no cantering play. Do you plan to polish the mold, btw? As to the play of pins, as it's tiny, you may consider electroplating the mold (it would shrink holes tiny bit only and add a mirror finish). But it's an overkill as with all my suggestions :D.
Can't wait to see it being tried with glass.
For sure, once we have a working molds, I would like to polish them and add a tiny logo into it :-)
@@daliborfarny Polishing will help, but hopefully you also have allowed enough slope on the mating parts so that they will not stick together. Easy enough when your CNC files are done to put your logo into the one side as relief, so that you get a raised logo, though it will have to be shallow and not too narrow. Then polish with diamond paste to get a near mirror finish.
@@daliborfarnyOne remark on play of the pins, as it worries me that it may become a bit bigger due to thermal expansion. You could press fit circular wire connectors in the mold. It would have to be more bulky, but would assure equal length and as little play as possible.
They are spring loaded like here: www.e-tec.com/v5/documents/catalogs/IC-10.pdf
This is absolutely brilliant, well done. I can't wait to see the next part and a finished working tube.
great progress, thank you for the video.
Woo! truly nice precision and the contraption works like you thought it should pending molten glass. congrats.
Beautiful work
Paráda Dalibore 👍
Super exciting to see this come together finally!
Congratulations. Empirical engineering at its best.
craftsmanship to its finest. amazing project.
Such a satisfying snappy ending! 😂
Wonderful progress and nice machining!
Хорошая работа. Очень хорощий и точный станок.
Beautiful work as always! BTW shouldn't this be episode #7 🤗🤗
🙏, correct :-)
Great work 👏
What alloy are the tube's pins made from? Tempco of expansion would be a big deal. Has to be malleable enough to prevent excess leverage stresses where the pin meets the glass.
Sure! It is alloy 52 and the glass will be Schott AR. The alchemy of the glass to metal seal will be the main topic!
Are you guys shooting cold air on the bit instead of coolant?
Just regular air to keep cast iron chips away from the tool..
Glass forming with machines is something I wish was more often talked about in the maker community. I guess its because glassworking has a kinda high financial barrier of entry. Hope that changes in the future.
Wonderful design and beautiful work! But why does it have to spin? Wouldn't the mold work just as well in a static mount?
Also, you don't need pecking on cast iron because chip evacuation is excellent as you saw.
The spinning helps with uniform heating of the glass inside, it is a proven technique. Otherwise flames would have to rotate around it.. I like the pecking as it is safer to drill with it, but you are right for cast iron :-)
@@daliborfarny That makes perfect sense. Thanks! Your craftsmanship is incredible.
looks promising!
Very cool!
How do you keep the glass from sticking to the steel?
Treating the parts with graphite powder?
Will you PVD the piece in platinum?
Platinum really doesnt stick to glass. You can make glass biscuit with a platinum mold, the glass just pops when cold
Just a suggestion. Instead of guessing the speed. Check the manufacturers recommend feeds and speeds. Also. Smaller carbide mills in steel typically like a lille coolant/lube. Dark cutting oil does ok. It helps with chatter more often than not. Absorbs some of the energy and helps to reduce drag in the cut. Also helps the bit last much longer.
cast iron should always be done dry + air jet. It's like, the one damn thing you don't use coolant for.
@DUIofPhysics If you say so. Those cuts looked like crap. Speeds and feeds were never where they should be. By the way. I worked in a machine shop machining scroll compressors. Cast iron. With out coolant or not enough flow the finish and finish tolerance couldn't be met. Try a thin misting coolant to minimize mess, but till coolant or lube is added the finish will always suck. Decades of experience.
Cutting the cast iron on this cnc router is a bit tricky, it is not designed to do ferrous material. The endmills are certainly able to run faster, but the machine is not rigid enough.. cast iton should be run dry, but I will give it a try with mist cooling - I have it set up. It is so easy to clean the machine when the chips/dust are not wet and sticky from the coolant :-)
@daliborfarny Simply issue of matching feeds and speeds. Does not matter the machine. Every tool has a sweet spot. And it's usually printed on a chart. Plug those numbers in to start with. Then tweak slightly. Not by 2000 rpm increments. 300 rpm can make a huge difference. And those high rpms generate a lot more heat and drag due the there simply more revelutions. So by adding a little oil that reduces friction. And allows the mill and tue part to dissipate heat from the surface much better. Literally a few drops of dark cutting oil or a misting of coolant would change everything. All I'm saying.
Thank you for the tips, I am hungry for all best practices that people share.. I should be running the machine at lower rpms and deeper cut, but I have high speed spindle.. perfect for AL, hacky for steel/cast iron. So I lower the cutting depth and increase rpm - searching for minimum chatter. Will try the mist lubrication!
What is that red sealing coating on the pins in the area of contact with the glass?
Thats copper - google “dumet wire”, exciting stuff :-)
@@daliborfarny Thank you for the clarification. Still, this is for sealing at the point of contact with the glass. It seems that uranium glass was previously used for this purpose, if I’m not mistaken.
So cool 🤘🏽🔥
Do you plan on making triodes in the future? 😯✨
Could you put a GoPro on the spinning part of the mold to see the action more clearly?
Machining always starts off absolutely terrifying.
very fine.
Why you have mounted the mould on the lathe ? Is there any particular reason ?
Because I need to spin it (heating glass with flames) and the lathe enables me to do that conveniently.
nice! ❤
A work of art, after watching I needed a cigarette
Dammit, no glass!
Ok, but how in the world did the create it back in the.. what? 50's?
Is this a standard vacuum tube socket size?
It is not, I didnt find any suitable one (for 50mm tube, 11 pins).
Absolutně jsem nepochopil na co se tato věc využívá. Mozna to je mnou, protoze jsem cele video proskákal a mozna to take ve videu bylo řečeno. Ale stejně by mě to zajímalo. :)
They are doing this kind of cnc work in high schools now.
Круто! Я в России , у нас ещё склады СССР не оскудели. ИН4 покупаю за 400RU.
Все заводы ( в том числе и "Светлана" - ламповая техника 6П14П и т.д. ) пошли под нож😢😢.
why dont you use a battery powered screwdriver when you move the machine vertically instead of handcranking it (11:48)
👍thank's🙋♂️
12:24 **Interstellar docking scene music starts playing**
Just melt some glass already!
круто! часы бомба, где бы еще найти 200к на них))
I'm disappointed, I expected some swearing in Czech a couple of times!
It was edited out :-)
@@daliborfarny ha. Makes me curious if you say "kurva!" more often than us.
Очень круто!
This man is very busy, you wait forever for a reply by e-mail.😅😉
That will change soon hopefully! :-)
Could you please enable autogenerated captions for this video? Thanks!
I think captions just need some time to generate.
Will do!
*machine noises*
*servos whirring*
*more milling machine noises*
*tools clacking*
*soft lathe hum*
__machine shop sounds to relax/study to__
Thanks 😂 it's impossible to tell if there is a voice-over or not if you can only watch muted, I just assume I am missing out of the little CC button is disabled 🤷♂️
А разве нельзя использовать для переворачивания станка акумуляторный шуруповёрт или гайковёрт? Это было бы быстрее и легче.
What is F project?
Promo'SM
OMFG, I'm doing PLA 3D printing tonight, and it's not going well, and y'all are FREAKIN ME OUT.....
lol
Wait, WHAT? I Have to WAIT for glasssssssss????????????????
holy hell, back to my stupid plastic....
You are bringing excellence back to the new work force and away from that Chinese rubbish