There's always a component like that on every car. Volvo 240s are built around the blower motor. I used to have a car that had been built around the light bulb for the shifter quadrant.
@@SilasHumphreys to be honest Volvo seems to build around all the common repair items, think headlight bulbs, why oh why does the tire need to come off to replace a bulb
My dad worked for Yugo for years as the Director of Technical Services. He raced them after he retired. He would be happy to share stories and advice. He has original parts too.
This project took so long that the Technology Connections video about turn signal blinkers came out first, but you missed his warning about doing an LED drop-in conversion!
@@agingwheels yeah but you never have to replace that bulb ever again. (And his "but it doesn't focus on the lens!" argument doesn't work on the Yugo anyways)
@@agingwheels well, yeah. Probably because the word "Yugo" came up in the conversation. And not in a good way. (There's no good way to bring up the word "Yugo", except in, "I offloaded that crappy Yugo on some unsuspecting schlub." But that would be Tavaish's line.) Oh, and probably the break light/turn signal thingy.
I just love to think there's some old man in Eastern Europe who knows everything there is to know about these cars watching this video laughing because he knows all of the tricks.
Right? 40 minutes of solid content and I was mentally ready for the next set of troubleshooting when it ended. I don't even own a Yugo, but I find this stuff fascinating.
Agreed. I saw the run time up front and said, YEESH! That's a commitment! But then I saw your comment and gave it a chance. Worth the 40 minutes, easily.
A long time ago, one of my teachers had a Yugo. I remember him saying that he must carefully avoid puddles of water, otherwise it would splash on some electrical parts and stop the engine; and he couldn't restart it until it dries out. So... in the long term, if you intend to use it often including on rainy days, perhaps you might try to make it more reliable by adding some cover beneath the engine.
he has an engine swap, and i dont think tavarish would make something stupid and put the ecu or whatever electrical bits it was, somewhere where it would get splashed easily 😂😂
@@mftuning2891 I mean the 65 EFI (GVplus in the US) had multi point fuel injection so it isn't impossible but this one doesn't have much electronics in it clearly
In this episode, Rob learns the absolute terror of the ball joint separator... I've separated hundreds of ball joints and it still scares the crap out of me.
The shoddy workmanship on that Yugo will outlive you. There isn't a mechanic born that has the willpower and knowledge to beat all of the Yugo's flaws. :) I had a Yugo for 10 years. It was always a new surprise when it wouldn't go. But I loved it to bits :)
I bought one for $400 and drove at 80 miles so far so good..Monday it didn't have ignition to the coil so I had to run a hot wire and then intermittently you would not have to use that toggle switch
A friend gave me hers when she bought a new car. I drove that Yugo for years. It was sketchy and never was quite right the entire time I had it (especially those dodgy brakes). But it was a blast to drive! Some days I really miss it.
Given that this car is on it’s 3rd or 4th TH-camr owner, I love the idea of this beige shitbox being passed down for decades more from car channel to car channel until it’s been ship of Theseus’d into something decent. Probably around 2098.
Hopefully you're going through comments lol Here are some tips worth noting related to the alignment and some other things: When you're replacing the lower control arms, you might want to use a big hammer, and to hit the part that you heated up, it's speeding up the process. Yes, you just need a good wheel alignment, but as this car doesn't like bigger wheels, and because of it's open diff and stronger engine, oh boy will it show some torque steering. When you're doing the alignment, ask to be in the drivers seat while it's done, because the car is light. Aligning with weight (you) will significantly improve the steering performance. Running negative camber on Yugo requires tie rod modification, but here's what you do: take them off, and cut off precisely 10mm from the part which is attached (screwed) to the steering rack, that will give you all the necessary clearance for adjustment, but make sure that it's a good, centered, straight cut. Any machine shop should be able to do it on the lathe. We sometimes use adjustable tie rods (from other Zastava models, compatible with Yugo's steering rack), but I don't think that you can find those there. You also don't need to worry about the camber, racing Yugos use more than 3° of negative camber, which is also ok for the street, however it will impact your inner tire wear slightly. Get as much of positive caster as you can get, over here we're even replacing the front anti rollbar mounts to push the wheels 5mm to the front. These cars like front toe out, so just a bit will make it work perfectly. As for the rear, it's a personal preference. Zero is always good. Also, at the rear, 0.5 to 1° of negative camber as the car sits loaded works good, but you might leave it at zero. Also, you can recondition the CV joint just by washing off the old grease, and replacing it with new graphite grease and new CV boot, they are almost indestructible. There are 2 different types, later one has different splines, so if you're ever going to order one, be careful. Bad light connection might occur on the dash, due to the light holders, so that's an easy fix, just pull the connectors upwards with any screwdriver. Aesthetics wise, for side mirrors - try looking up Vitaloni California, or Engelmann (Opel Manta) mirrors, they work like a charm. Btw I laughed so hard while I was watching you taking the fuel tank off. It's a struggle, and there is no best way of doing it, unfortunately, unless you dissasemble the whole rear end lol I could go on forever, but I think I already wrote too much haha
Aging Wheels is more entertaining and by far funnier than any of the so called sit-coms on tv right now. When you upload videos you truly make my day. Just between you and me, I do not have a life, so take this accolade for what it is.
Siana if I may, I love your misreading of my sit-com, will start using shitcom from now on as it represents the current state of tv at the moment. Don’t even ask how I feel about reality tv. You are an accidental genius!
@@danhei I haven't had a TV since mid 2000s, and even then the real purpose of the device was for the Dreamcast. I remember "Reality TV". It was basically "Big Brother" and "Pimp My Ride". Was "Jackass" also "Reality TV"? I mostly have second-hand impression of most of these shows, i think i didn't last 10 seconds of watching them. I mean of these, i can see the appeal of Pimp My Ride, but the rest? What i also remember were "serious" channels dipping into what they'd call "documentaries", except they were about... let's say waste collectors. I do think waste collectors are very important and i respect their job a lot, but do i want to watch them do their most boring daily routine for 90 minutes, with their banter and attempts at humour i can't at all connect with? Where the most exciting thing that happens is them complaining about people not separating the garbage properly, or a dead animal? NO. This is what honest "Reality TV" would be like though. Like some 80 year old executive heard "Reality TV" was getting popular so "we need some of that", and so it was done.
Watching all this work your putting into the lighting right after watching Technology Connections video about turn signal flashers and chuckling like a madman.
Yugoslav feelings intensify. Much love from Serbia 🇷🇸 P. S. Should you need some spare parts or something straight from the source, please let me know, there'll be a small issue of getting it back to the US of A, but I guess we'd figure something out, I can't let the Hungarians being better by supplying you with Trabi parts seamlessly.... XD
We have a group on Facebook, there's at least one guy in Serbia moving parts. I'm on the search for GVX door trim right now. So far Dalibor hasn't been able to turn one up.
In idle curiosity-what were the most common fixes immediately applied after purchase? Because looking at this, I'd think I'd want to take it apart and reassemble everything from scratch. Though I will admit I admire how everything is, in fact, accessible by hand with a minimal amount of disassembly.
Not only with us from Serbia,a lot of those problems can be fixed by any classic FIAT expert ,all the FIATs from 70s and 80s are in same fashion:127,128,ritmo,uno,…you name it….same mechanics There is a lot of ex yugoslavia clubs for zastava cars on facebook and instagram by the way
This was a terrific installment... Of painful installs. 😂 For real, though, watching someone show care and dedication in doing things the right way even when the right way is the hard way and even when the project itself might seem silly overall... That is incredibly satisfying and rewarding for all of us and that is why we watch and enjoy you. Thanks so much. And hey, guess what, I'm a patron now! After such a long time of enjoying your content for free, I wanted to give back a bit.
This doesn't seem very logical given how it's mounted up top. By all reason, they had a jig that sets the correct angle between the filler neck and the tank, which allows the tank to go in, in a convoluted procedure, but with relatively little persuasion, and of course it isn't installed alone but by 3 people, each persuading their own corner of the thing, two down below in a trench of the assembly line, and one up top. They can probably install it in under 40 seconds that way. In those countries the state was responsible in giving every person a suitable job, so more people of low qualification being needed than strictly necessary for the manufacturing was not at all seen as a drawback. By the time AW tried to extract the gas tank, things were already a little bit warped and bent from various road and maintenance events, and the angle was no longer correct, and he had no way to set it correctly, even if he matched what he saw on there originally or what the now distorted geometry of everything appears to suggest. Apropos low qualification. At least when soldering, they shouldn't be able to put holes into the gas tank, as opposed to welding.
@@testcardsandmore1231 I was wondering the same thing. Funny timing. Also that explains why the brake-lights in my car kinda suck in daylight. I thought it was just how they were. So now I'm inclined to figure something out since I'd rather like them to be more visible.
@@testcardsandmore1231 With respect to Alec, there's nothing wrong with LED conversions provided you have BIG taillights and the right color LED bulb. Anecdotal evidence: my Caprice. All incandescent 1157 & 194 bulbs behind red lenses have been replaced with LED 1157R & 194R bulbs because Great American Sedans demand *RED* for turn, stop, and marker lamps, dammit! Red bulb + red lens = *SO MUCH RED FROM ALL VISIBLE ANGLES* . :D The reverse lamps were a joke as incandescent and they're still abysmal as LED even with both "filaments" illuminated. Bah. Who needs rearward white illumination anyway. I'll just tap the brakes and save my night vision. The front is a different story. Because GM decided the alternate filament in the amber bulbs would be the ground path, the incandescent 1157A bulbs remain.
@@SYH653 I suppose, personally I feel it's just easier to stick with the bulbs it is designed to use. Both the exterior lights and instrument backlights too. That way you know everything works correctly and as intended.
Please loosen the lower control arms and refasten them when the wheels are carrying the car (on a ramp or so) to avoid killing the inner rubbers in a short time.
Been a mechanic for 15 years, work on anything from C10 Chevys to 2CVs. Only ever seen letting the suspension go full droop ever be issue was on OLD mopars with torsion bars were the bushingon the lower control arm in the front might finish disintegrating.
you should never tighten bushings until they are in their loaded position. tightening them at full suspension lift puts a twist in them causing early failure.
I've just been slowly converting all of my bushings to poly... since they are intended to rotate, no issues here. the new PTFE grease the major manufacturers are using for poly makes a big difference... Never had any squeaks
Watching your struggle with the gas tank makes me appreciate the simplicity and vastness of 1960s American cars. My father and I replaced the gas tank in our 1962 Impala project car a while ago, and putting it in position was as easy as putting a large box into a larger box. :)
Pretty much until front wheel drive took over it was easy doing stuff like that on American cars. Took me like 45 minutes to remove the radiator, fan, belt, and water pump off my 93 thunderbird. Plenty of room to work with, it's great.
Swapping out the dual 20 gallon tanks on my 1986 Chevy Silverado wasn't that bad. It's far easier if you have the bed off, but can be done fairly easily with the bed on. Now don't get me started on the @#$%@#$@# Starters. It doesn't matter if you have the 2 or 4 wheel drive (I've worked on both, because that was the vehicle theme at my Dad's place in the mid-to-late 90s.) On the 4 wheel drive models, it's the stupid drive shaft for the front pumpkin that's in the way. You'd think the 2 wheel model would be any flippin' easier to work on. AND YOU WOULD BE WRONG! Chevy still managed to put something in the FLIPPIN' WAY on the 2 wheel model that's not on the 4 wheel model. And I wouldn't have to change the starter if the FLIPPITY FLIPPIN cylanoid wasn't a piece of BAKELITE SHIT! Yes! Bakelite! That brown stuff that's brittle. It breaks if a rock hits it. It breaks if you hit a pothole hard. Hell, you can break it just putting the nuts back on to hold the flipping wiring in place. (Yeah, I did that...) And the stupid wiring harness is designed that it can go on both the right and wrong way... but you have to tell by feel since you can't see a damn thing due to shit being in the way. (Like the aforementioned drive shaft... and the starter itself.
Hey man, just wanted to say that I was struggling with removing and replacing the passenger side sunroof drain on my LR4 earlier today. I took a break, put on this video, and cursed along with you as you installed the gas tank. Something about hearing someone else struggle with their project helped me finish my task. Here's to driveway mechanics everywhere. Kudos
Spent yesterday evening trying to install a towbar on a low-mileage 18-year-old Nissan hatchback - but I don't have a driveway; the car is in a car park across the road from my apartment
24:00 the switch choice was perfect cosmetically but with regard to function you need to connect a little chip circuit to ensure it only works randomly about half the time. 😃
RE: The gas tank, unsure if it's been mentioned but my initial thought was that seeing as that joint was where it was leaking from the chances were that the joint was soldered on after both the tank and neck were in place. Hence the leak. Imagine trying to solder that...
Same. I figure they'd weld it if it were to be fastened to the tank before going in the car. But, being soldered, makes me think it was a workaround for how ill-fitting the parts would otherwise be. 1) Mount tank. 2) Route and clamp the flexi-line. 3) Route the filler and solder in place. That's just the impression I get, though. If something is structurally soldered, odds are the soldering is post-assembly.
That is what I came down here to say. Arc welding is much quicker and easier for the factory to do than solder so one would assume they would do that if it was an assembly that was installed. They probably soldered it because there wasn't clearance to weld it after the tank was in place but they could heat it and bend the solder into a hook and get in there. They probably did it that way in the prototype stage and then forgot to modify the design for production until after it was already IN production and thus were stuck making the tank basically not removable. They probably didn't want to waste the effort to change the design cause they knew it was a cheap, throwaway car and no one but crazy TH-camrs would drive one long enough to need to drop the tank!
Nope... It was in soldered befor instalation, like any other part. It's jut realy tricky to install it, and require expirience. Did that last time some 30+ years ago, but as I remember you should remove parking brake cable, and tension the exost pipe a bit. And yes... there is some wierd angle and rotation necessary to put it in place.
Don’t put down your old Yugo review video Robert. It was actually quite entertaining and is honestly one of my favorite videos on your channel. Keep the good content coming!
Bro the way you explain things combined with the way your voice sounds combined with your demeanor and attitude...I don't know what it is but I absolutely love this channel, I don't even really like car channels. Can't wait to binge watch all the stuff you're gonna do with these cars.
"It's amazing what you can fix with epoxy and a willingness to take things apart." 💕 You should join us for the Lemons Rally! Your projects would fit right in! Keep up the good work, and we'll keep watching!
I add Drew Gooden to the list, he was the first person whose sponsored sections I actually watched. Sometimed they didn't even seem like spons at first, they just looked like part of the videos.
@@philiprobinson9357 I'm genuinely surprised they haven't yet. Didn't DeWalt even try to sponsor Mattias Wandel when he doesn't even particularly like their tools?
Quick note on LED bulbs. You should also use a bulb that matches the color of the lens in most cases. For example, if you put a red LED behind the red brake light lens, you will get a much brighter output. I believe it is because the lens filters light except for the color of the lens. So, more light gets through. I learned about this from Cars Simplified when he gave me LED lights for my Subaru Impreza!
I'm gonna replace the CFL bulb behind one of these same lenses in my Arcade cabinet for LED's soon and this is actually a really great tip! i was worried how bright it would be with regular white LED's, i'm gonna go for Orange ones instead! Thank you!!
My biggest complaint - a video so long includes so many like-worthy moments, only being able to dole out a single like feels as if we're being short-changed. As always, a delightful watch. Keep up the excellent content, sir.
I'm not entirely sure why I was recommended this video, but your own-made-ad earned you a new subscriber. I've always thought software engineering and car mechanicing had quite a few things in common
Suggestion: Get a hold of some Mirror, from Culture Hustle. It's a paint that basically puts a full-on mirror finish on whatever you paint it on to. Barring that, just hit that tail light housing with a few coats of Krylon or Rustoleum Metallic Chrome.
It has been so refreshing to watch a person who wants to FIX and reuse, rather than replace with new. I wish the main stream car shows would have your atitude even with my local mechanic would not do what you do. Keep up the good work and there is hope.
That square space ad was amazing actually. Really got the point across! You don’t understand how happy I am you upgraded to led. Also that explanation in the flasher was so perfect and easy to understand
I laughed so hard at "... I'll just light a match, drop it and walk away," because that's the exact same thought I've had lingering in my mind while watching you struggle with that gas tank. 🤣🤣🤣
I love this. I had one for a field car when I was like 7 years old. Lol. Learned how to drive stick in that monster. As I believe it had Bosch fuel injection. It was actually fast... but I was young, and it died and we couldn't get parts to fix it...
@@rebellion-starwars Nope... It was 45 HP, in "Yugo/Koral 45". 903cc engine ( Fiat 100 series, that was in fiat 127, OHV, descendant of engine from old fiat 600) 1.1l engine (Fiat 128.A..., originaly from Fiat 128, SOHC), had few variants, basic 55HP and 60HP (two barrell carburator, or later EFI), and it was from "Yugo/Koral 55/60" 1.3l engine had 65HP (also FIat, actualy, borred out 1100cc, and two barrelcarb, althow an EFI version existed and it was exported to USA). Obviously.. "Yugo/Koral 65"
If something is gonna be a nightmare to fix is the gas tank. After watching Ronnie fingerboy try and fix the gas tank in the fiero WAY too many times I can definitely say that if I need to do anything gas tank related it will be with new parts
I always liked how the Yugo look. In the late 90s there was one for sale at a local used car dealer. I didn't have yet my licence but I wanted it. Lucky for me I didn't have my licence, seeing all you needed to do to this one! lol
I'm from Serbia, and although I haven't worked in Yugos yet, it seems to me that all the people who tune them here use a lot smaller wheels, mostly 13". Anyway, seeing you struggle to get the steering right, I think they might be doing it for a reason. If you think about implementing that idea, I might help you with translating some of the Serbian tuners videos or blog posts. Cheers!
i love how the whole ínstalling the gas tank part reminded me of how irritating my work on car damage repair is, lots fiddling around and cursing and throwing tools across the shop
THANK YOU for taking apart the speedometer. I have been wondering about the inner workings of those for a while, but i've been waaaaay too lazy to actually look it up.
Wow, I haven't heard the term "filister head screw" in many years! I love knowing the differences between Phillips, Crosspoint, and Posidrive screws, knowing that Bristol Spline screws and drivers exist. I have two slightly different versions of Phillips II driver bits, too.
@@bobblum5973 Don't forget JIS screws, though the JIS screwdriver standard doesn't exist anymore and any decent DIN 5260-PH Phillips screwdriver works fine on Japanese cross head screws -- whether or not the screwdriver comes from Japan (or instead Taiwan or Europe) -- as the DIN standard matches the main features of the JIS standard. (An old-fashioned Phillips screwdriver will however still cam out and damage torqued-down JIS screws badly when trying to undo them...)
@@TassieLorenzo Oh, I didn't forget, my list most definitely wasn't comprehensive. You're right, those JIS screwheads cause headaches when people try to use the wrong driver. I understand in a pinch you might need to make do with what you have, but I've seen too many times where people used a hex driver ("Allen" type bit or wrench) on a Torx head screw. (A pet peeve of mine is hearing someone call a Torx a "star" bit or socket.) I have a set of Bristol spline drivers from decades back when electronic control knobs used them for their set screws. Things like that got me started on acquiring quite a few specialty hand tools, like a special thin-walled nutdriver for data connector lockdown posts (D-series for RS-232), or a set of extra-long security Torx bits I needed to fix a coffee maker. The right tool for the job always makes things easier, while I admit sometimes a big hammer or a torch is necessary!
@@jokumukamikalie nope slight toe out keeps both tires pulling away from each other causing the car to track straight with both facing slightly in any bump in the road will cause them to go which ever direction has more traction
This is one of the best laughs I have had in years! What you are going through was typical of every owner of a cheap British Leyland's car; they were so badly built and we could not afford to take it to a garage to fix it! So, we had to do it ourselves. They were nearly as bad as your Yugo. persevere and you will get there. You will end up with a beautiful car built by you! I know; I have been there.
I test drove one of these in Atlanta when they first came out. It was brand spanking new and a rattlebucket. I didn't want one, even though I couldn't afford anything else. I went with used. I'm glad.
28:36 yessss my favorite style of ball joint buster. They work great but scare the piss out of you every time, no matter how often you use it. Btw, pro tip on those. Just keep cranking. Even if it hasn't busted yet, just keep torquing on it and it'll eventually go POP. No need for heat.
@@JasonWW2000 If you can get to it yes, but you have to hit it along the axis of the steering arm and very often that impossible with one of these ball joint pullers on it.
Thanks for this great tinkering experience! While the mechanical and electrical problems have definitely not played nice with this car, there is one fact that is really going for it: it's fixable! Screws, bolts, springs etc can be repaired and improved in the process. Doing so with a late model car at this age will be close to impossible.
That ball joint removal surprise reminded me of my brake rotor removal surprise. Used a puller to remove my insanely stuck front rotors, did as much as I could with an electric impact wrench until it could do no more. Then continued turning the bolt by hand with a breaker bar. When it finally released, the entire assembly (rotor, puller, and breaker bar) jumped off the car about 2' outward effectively hurling about 75lbs of metal at me jack-in-the-box style. So glad I was doing this on the ground and not on a lift, and so glad my shin wasn't in it's trajectory.
I wonder if the gas filler was soldered in after installation? And I also wonder if that jack crushing was less "lift the car" and more "force the tank back into place" damage.
I would have put the filler neck and the gas tank in there separately since they were already broken apart and then soldered them after they were lined up that way everything's in its correct place all you need to do is finish connecting The lines and you are done. Good work though you stuck with it longer than I would have.
I thought the same thing but at the same time I have been in a similar situation and thought "thats not what they do in the factory so its probably not safe.....(2hrs later)...F*%K IT I DONT CARE HOW SAFE IT IS!" this type of thinking is why I have sooo many scars lol
That car sounds incredible with those carburettors! most people these days have been told lies about carbs saying they are unreliable and make no power and its a shame we dont see many carb setups about, definitely beats having an ecu and sensors in my opinion!
I have only a few channels that I truly look forward to new content from, and yours is one of them! I must admit (and I apologize for it) that I laughed out loud when the ball joints suffered from sudden explosive come-apart syndrome! Robert, your combination of extreme competence tempered by "learning things the hard way" makes yours one of the most entertaining channels in current production. Please keep up the good (?) work!
Somewhat reassuring to see someone go through the exact same issues I had to fix on my Yugo (steering rack, control arm bushings, numerous electrical issues). Having a lift certainly seems like it makes things a bit easier though! Definitely will be following as you do more to the car.
you supposed to get some tension on ball joint with splitter and hit the part touching bottom of a ball joint with a hummer, but i guess ignoring it and hitting it with heat works to :P
@@fila1445 I was making a joke. :) You accidentally misspelled "hammer" as "hummer", which happens to be the name of a very big SUV. Thus, my comment that hitting the splitter with a [large SUV] would get everything else out too. ;)
I loved my Yugo! It was the only new car I've ever bought. 3999.99 new! Sound system 1200k. Lasted 1.25 yrs. After 2 motors (warranty) the .25 it died. Pushed it into a Old's dealer. Bought a 1986 cutlas. Coupe. 3.8 v6 loved it! At 61 yrs old I want my Yugo back!
Great fun. May I suggest an illuminated switch for the foglights, and getting the tie rods shortened (professionally) to allow you to adjust the toe. The offset of the wheels may mean you always have a bit of bump steer though
You are always SO entertaining to watch! Love the "Tackle the fog lights" joke. I'm, guessing the speedometer is going to be a bit off with those over-sized tires that Freddy and Jared put on her. Oh well - just another item on the long list of things to "adjust" on that car. It'll certainly be the world's coolest Yugo when it's done! ... "world's coolest Yugo" - there's a statement no one ever thought would be said, right?
I love the the gifted Yugo is getting it finishing touches. I know how it feels when you make some repairs expecting a certain result and problem not fixed. As long as you eventually get it done the new steering rack ect have been replaced now. the fact it's a Super powered Yugo makes it all worthwhile.
This was a very interesting video! Although I want to say, you might want to check the speedometer with a GPS speedometer, because the way I see it the pretension of the spring affects the swing (??? I don't know if this is the right word in english) of the needle for any given rotational speed of the magnet.
I don't care about cars at all. But because of TC, I still checked out your videos, and days later I'm already incredibly invested in what will happen to this Yugo. Thanks Alec!
Looking forward to see the final result of this, watching you makes me miss the times I've spent working on cars and mopeds myself. One of those few things that calms me down and gives me a nice challenge for the brain, definitely relating to the frustration of not understanding how something goes in place or fits together haha!
Wait, so - the Yugo passed its inspection without a working speedometer? That really feels like something a safety inspection should catch heh. Either way, really happy to see that this car is coming together - like a frankenstein Phoenix made of rusted steel and aftermarket parts, held together by socialist hopes and dreams.
It’s Missouri as long as it has wiper blades and lights it’s fine. You are responsible to make sure you won’t kill yourself with your car. We don’t like big government here.
In Missouri to get a safety inspection virtually all mechanics shops do it. So depending on what shop you take it to, they can be really picky or just blow you off and pass it. Safety inspections don't really stop 50% of the cars on the road in Missouri from being total unsafe shitboxes
After seeing some of the rust buckets on other USA car channels I was surprised to hear Robert needed any kind of Safety inspection. As other people have said it must vary from state to state.
First thing that got replaced on my rusty 1976 Fiat was the gas tank. For around $135 the new gas tank came from New Jersey. The tank had seen more of the U.S. than I had at that point in time. I was 15 and my dad was 42 when we tackled the tank replacement. We did not struggle as you did. It may be because we worked as a team! That was in 1982. You triggered that memory 🤔👍
You need to build the car around the fuel tank obviously.
There's always a component like that on every car. Volvo 240s are built around the blower motor. I used to have a car that had been built around the light bulb for the shifter quadrant.
@@SilasHumphreys yeah, my 240 had a dead blower motor for a few years and I never fixed it because MY GOD...
@@SilasHumphreys to be honest Volvo seems to build around all the common repair items, think headlight bulbs, why oh why does the tire need to come off to replace a bulb
It has a unique body-on-fuel tank construction.
@@jwalster9412 indeed, that fuel tank is most of the structural rigidity of the car
"properly roadworthy" hahahahahaha
My favorite Russian dominican Automotive youtuber!
Give me ur dodge charger hellcat
And I'll pray for you instead, deal?
Hahaha proof you can't even finish an easy project. SMH 😂
Freddy You tried to kill him 🤣😂
You trying to piss off the Balkans again, Freddy?
Everything you've ever wanted to know about fixing a modded Yugo but were afraid to ask.
Yes
I was afraid ppl would find out i had a modded yugo ...oops!
Yep, there Yugo
@@OntarioTrafficMan im glad to be also an ontario traffic man
My dad worked for Yugo for years as the Director of Technical Services. He raced them after he retired. He would be happy to share stories and advice. He has original parts too.
This is -hands down, up and sideways- *the* most enjoyable car channel I've found on TH-cam. Deserves 10 million subs.
I agree Mate👍
This project took so long that the Technology Connections video about turn signal blinkers came out first, but you missed his warning about doing an LED drop-in conversion!
I told him what I did to the Yugo. He was disappointed
@@agingwheels yeah but you never have to replace that bulb ever again. (And his "but it doesn't focus on the lens!" argument doesn't work on the Yugo anyways)
@@DasGanon worst case just duct tape like 10 flash lights to the hood lol
@@agingwheels well, yeah. Probably because the word "Yugo" came up in the conversation. And not in a good way. (There's no good way to bring up the word "Yugo", except in, "I offloaded that crappy Yugo on some unsuspecting schlub." But that would be Tavaish's line.)
Oh, and probably the break light/turn signal thingy.
@@agingwheels It's also somewhat remedied by having a really bright LED, which the most average walmart LED isn't
I just love to think there's some old man in Eastern Europe who knows everything there is to know about these cars watching this video laughing because he knows all of the tricks.
We were always raised to know basic maintenance at the very least, so seeing Westerners complaining about everything will never not be funny :)
Many people like that, don't worry 😃
Sadly, Yusef Slovatski died last year. All his in-depth Yugo knowledge died with him.
He will be missed.
And not even that old - they made this body style until 2008.
Probably yes, he must be giggling at this moment lol
I didn't even notice the 40 minute run time and I wanted more when it was over. This was super fascinating to watch.
Right? 40 minutes of solid content and I was mentally ready for the next set of troubleshooting when it ended. I don't even own a Yugo, but I find this stuff fascinating.
Agreed. I saw the run time up front and said, YEESH! That's a commitment!
But then I saw your comment and gave it a chance. Worth the 40 minutes, easily.
You ARE aware there is medical help for this weird fascination with Yugo-ism, right?
(I AM joking, just to make that clear)
LIKEWISE. I didn't want it to end, and see where he was eventually going with it! Turning out pretty awesome!!!
A long time ago, one of my teachers had a Yugo. I remember him saying that he must carefully avoid puddles of water, otherwise it would splash on some electrical parts and stop the engine; and he couldn't restart it until it dries out. So... in the long term, if you intend to use it often including on rainy days, perhaps you might try to make it more reliable by adding some cover beneath the engine.
he has an engine swap, and i dont think tavarish would make something stupid and put the ecu or whatever electrical bits it was, somewhere where it would get splashed easily 😂😂
@@BadMax02_VR ecu on a car from 1980s?
@@mftuning2891 hmm... true, tho my miata is from 1989 and has a ecu... so i guess technically yes? xD
@@mftuning2891 I mean the 65 EFI (GVplus in the US) had multi point fuel injection so it isn't impossible but this one doesn't have much electronics in it clearly
@ MF Tuning _engine swap_
In this episode, Rob learns the absolute terror of the ball joint separator... I've separated hundreds of ball joints and it still scares the crap out of me.
Dang, that Yugo will always be on TH-cam. It’s probably one of the most famous Yugo’s in the world.
yeppers
A dubious honor, to be sure.
Well... Noup
U should see some of serbian builds lol
@@nikoladragomirovic7848 it's clearly written "One of the most famous" Not "The most famous".
There's a difference. Just letting ya know.
That squarespace ad was the 1st genuinely entertaining YT sponsor I’ve ever seen. Thank you for not making skip 30+ seconds and making me chuckle!
Same.
I actually skipped past it and then thought, "I'll bet he does something good with this" and went back to watch it. I was not disappointed.
Sponsorblock skips that for me and looking at the bar I can see just how huge the segway + sponsor was.. it's way over two minutes, yeah no thanks.
@@beardsntools It's worth it, IMO.
How much did squarespace pay you?
The shoddy workmanship on that Yugo will outlive you. There isn't a mechanic born that has the willpower and knowledge to beat all of the Yugo's flaws. :) I had a Yugo for 10 years. It was always a new surprise when it wouldn't go.
But I loved it to bits :)
I bought one for $400 and drove at 80 miles so far so good..Monday it didn't have ignition to the coil so I had to run a hot wire and then intermittently you would not have to use that toggle switch
A friend gave me hers when she bought a new car. I drove that Yugo for years. It was sketchy and never was quite right the entire time I had it (especially those dodgy brakes). But it was a blast to drive! Some days I really miss it.
Given that this car is on it’s 3rd or 4th TH-camr owner, I love the idea of this beige shitbox being passed down for decades more from car channel to car channel until it’s been ship of Theseus’d into something decent. Probably around 2098.
"...wouldn't hold hopes and dreams let alone gas vapors..." - gawd I love this channel....
well you know that kind of important for a gas tank you know to hold gas and dreams and vapours lol
Hopefully you're going through comments lol
Here are some tips worth noting related to the alignment and some other things:
When you're replacing the lower control arms, you might want to use a big hammer, and to hit the part that you heated up, it's speeding up the process.
Yes, you just need a good wheel alignment, but as this car doesn't like bigger wheels, and because of it's open diff and stronger engine, oh boy will it show some torque steering. When you're doing the alignment, ask to be in the drivers seat while it's done, because the car is light. Aligning with weight (you) will significantly improve the steering performance.
Running negative camber on Yugo requires tie rod modification, but here's what you do: take them off, and cut off precisely 10mm from the part which is attached (screwed) to the steering rack, that will give you all the necessary clearance for adjustment, but make sure that it's a good, centered, straight cut. Any machine shop should be able to do it on the lathe. We sometimes use adjustable tie rods (from other Zastava models, compatible with Yugo's steering rack), but I don't think that you can find those there.
You also don't need to worry about the camber, racing Yugos use more than 3° of negative camber, which is also ok for the street, however it will impact your inner tire wear slightly. Get as much of positive caster as you can get, over here we're even replacing the front anti rollbar mounts to push the wheels 5mm to the front. These cars like front toe out, so just a bit will make it work perfectly. As for the rear, it's a personal preference. Zero is always good. Also, at the rear, 0.5 to 1° of negative camber as the car sits loaded works good, but you might leave it at zero. Also, you can recondition the CV joint just by washing off the old grease, and replacing it with new graphite grease and new CV boot, they are almost indestructible. There are 2 different types, later one has different splines, so if you're ever going to order one, be careful.
Bad light connection might occur on the dash, due to the light holders, so that's an easy fix, just pull the connectors upwards with any screwdriver.
Aesthetics wise, for side mirrors - try looking up Vitaloni California, or Engelmann (Opel Manta) mirrors, they work like a charm.
Btw I laughed so hard while I was watching you taking the fuel tank off. It's a struggle, and there is no best way of doing it, unfortunately, unless you dissasemble the whole rear end lol
I could go on forever, but I think I already wrote too much haha
Aging Wheels is more entertaining and by far funnier than any of the so called sit-coms on tv right now. When you upload videos you truly make my day. Just between you and me, I do not have a life, so take this accolade for what it is.
Misread as 'shitcoms'.
@@SianaGearz More accurate if you ask me.
Siana if I may, I love your misreading of my sit-com, will start using shitcom from now on as it represents the current state of tv at the moment. Don’t even ask how I feel about reality tv. You are an accidental genius!
@@danhei I haven't had a TV since mid 2000s, and even then the real purpose of the device was for the Dreamcast. I remember "Reality TV". It was basically "Big Brother" and "Pimp My Ride". Was "Jackass" also "Reality TV"? I mostly have second-hand impression of most of these shows, i think i didn't last 10 seconds of watching them. I mean of these, i can see the appeal of Pimp My Ride, but the rest?
What i also remember were "serious" channels dipping into what they'd call "documentaries", except they were about... let's say waste collectors. I do think waste collectors are very important and i respect their job a lot, but do i want to watch them do their most boring daily routine for 90 minutes, with their banter and attempts at humour i can't at all connect with? Where the most exciting thing that happens is them complaining about people not separating the garbage properly, or a dead animal? NO. This is what honest "Reality TV" would be like though. Like some 80 year old executive heard "Reality TV" was getting popular so "we need some of that", and so it was done.
Yup, and this is just one guy with an assorted bunch of old cars.
Watching all this work your putting into the lighting right after watching Technology Connections video about turn signal flashers and chuckling like a madman.
Right
Holy shit it's the real doctors TARDIS
Lol I was thinking the same
Then I only found this site from watching him repair Tech Connections car
Yugoslav feelings intensify.
Much love from Serbia 🇷🇸
P. S. Should you need some spare parts or something straight from the source, please let me know, there'll be a small issue of getting it back to the US of A, but I guess we'd figure something out, I can't let the Hungarians being better by supplying you with Trabi parts seamlessly.... XD
haha i was gonna say ask any serbian mechanic, they know yugos by heart
We have a group on Facebook, there's at least one guy in Serbia moving parts. I'm on the search for GVX door trim right now. So far Dalibor hasn't been able to turn one up.
In idle curiosity-what were the most common fixes immediately applied after purchase? Because looking at this, I'd think I'd want to take it apart and reassemble everything from scratch.
Though I will admit I admire how everything is, in fact, accessible by hand with a minimal amount of disassembly.
Not only with us from Serbia,a lot of those problems can be fixed by any classic FIAT expert ,all the FIATs from 70s and 80s are in same fashion:127,128,ritmo,uno,…you name it….same mechanics
There is a lot of ex yugoslavia clubs for zastava cars on facebook and instagram by the way
This was a terrific installment... Of painful installs. 😂
For real, though, watching someone show care and dedication in doing things the right way even when the right way is the hard way and even when the project itself might seem silly overall... That is incredibly satisfying and rewarding for all of us and that is why we watch and enjoy you. Thanks so much.
And hey, guess what, I'm a patron now! After such a long time of enjoying your content for free, I wanted to give back a bit.
"They're hella-non-functional.". Your puns are almost as good as the hilarious deadpan sarcastic presentation style!
Wild guess, the filler neck was probably soldered to the tank after being install in the car.
That absolutely has to be the solution.
That sounds suitably communist and make work to fit the yugo
This is what i was thinking. It looks like there's enough space between the neck/tank joint and the floor pan to get a torch and some solder in there.
@@GrahamCrannell you just know some serb foreman was told it didn't fit, downed a shot and went "Fuck it we're not the ones who have to fix it.
This doesn't seem very logical given how it's mounted up top. By all reason, they had a jig that sets the correct angle between the filler neck and the tank, which allows the tank to go in, in a convoluted procedure, but with relatively little persuasion, and of course it isn't installed alone but by 3 people, each persuading their own corner of the thing, two down below in a trench of the assembly line, and one up top. They can probably install it in under 40 seconds that way. In those countries the state was responsible in giving every person a suitable job, so more people of low qualification being needed than strictly necessary for the manufacturing was not at all seen as a drawback.
By the time AW tried to extract the gas tank, things were already a little bit warped and bent from various road and maintenance events, and the angle was no longer correct, and he had no way to set it correctly, even if he matched what he saw on there originally or what the now distorted geometry of everything appears to suggest.
Apropos low qualification. At least when soldering, they shouldn't be able to put holes into the gas tank, as opposed to welding.
CTRL+F, "Technology Connections"
Ah yes, the Venn Diagram of Technology Connections and Aging Wheels watchers is pretty much just a circle. Good.
Did anyone in the comments mention the horrible bad idea of LED-converting?
@@SimuLord dark orange with context.
@@testcardsandmore1231 I was wondering the same thing. Funny timing. Also that explains why the brake-lights in my car kinda suck in daylight. I thought it was just how they were. So now I'm inclined to figure something out since I'd rather like them to be more visible.
@@testcardsandmore1231 With respect to Alec, there's nothing wrong with LED conversions provided you have BIG taillights and the right color LED bulb. Anecdotal evidence: my Caprice. All incandescent 1157 & 194 bulbs behind red lenses have been replaced with LED 1157R & 194R bulbs because Great American Sedans demand *RED* for turn, stop, and marker lamps, dammit! Red bulb + red lens = *SO MUCH RED FROM ALL VISIBLE ANGLES* . :D
The reverse lamps were a joke as incandescent and they're still abysmal as LED even with both "filaments" illuminated. Bah. Who needs rearward white illumination anyway. I'll just tap the brakes and save my night vision.
The front is a different story. Because GM decided the alternate filament in the amber bulbs would be the ground path, the incandescent 1157A bulbs remain.
@@SYH653 I suppose, personally I feel it's just easier to stick with the bulbs it is designed to use. Both the exterior lights and instrument backlights too. That way you know everything works correctly and as intended.
Please loosen the lower control arms and refasten them when the wheels are carrying the car (on a ramp or so) to avoid killing the inner rubbers in a short time.
That makes too much sense, but I'd never have thought of it. Now, I'll never forget it. 👍
@Uwe Kall
Here, have a genuine thumbs up for knowing this!
He was denied critical...need to know....information
Its probably not as bad, since it doesnt have much troop
Been a mechanic for 15 years, work on anything from C10 Chevys to 2CVs. Only ever seen letting the suspension go full droop ever be issue was on OLD mopars with torsion bars were the bushingon the lower control arm in the front might finish disintegrating.
This is great content! Glad someone finally caught the “letting loose randomly” on camera when the lower ball joint let loose at 28:50.
The only time I haven’t skipped through a Square Space ad, excellent work!
you should never tighten bushings until they are in their loaded position.
tightening them at full suspension lift puts a twist in them causing early failure.
I used to believe that, until I realised the factory doesn't do that on the assembly line.
@@TyphoonVstrom
they have a jig that holds things in alignment until tightened.
the sub assemblies are made before the assembly line.
I've just been slowly converting all of my bushings to poly... since they are intended to rotate, no issues here. the new PTFE grease the major manufacturers are using for poly makes a big difference... Never had any squeaks
Watching your struggle with the gas tank makes me appreciate the simplicity and vastness of 1960s American cars. My father and I replaced the gas tank in our 1962 Impala project car a while ago, and putting it in position was as easy as putting a large box into a larger box. :)
I know you've had some other things to deal with, but will we be seeing any more of Project Impala on your forum someday soon?
Pretty much until front wheel drive took over it was easy doing stuff like that on American cars. Took me like 45 minutes to remove the radiator, fan, belt, and water pump off my 93 thunderbird. Plenty of room to work with, it's great.
Swapping out the dual 20 gallon tanks on my 1986 Chevy Silverado wasn't that bad. It's far easier if you have the bed off, but can be done fairly easily with the bed on.
Now don't get me started on the @#$%@#$@# Starters. It doesn't matter if you have the 2 or 4 wheel drive (I've worked on both, because that was the vehicle theme at my Dad's place in the mid-to-late 90s.) On the 4 wheel drive models, it's the stupid drive shaft for the front pumpkin that's in the way. You'd think the 2 wheel model would be any flippin' easier to work on. AND YOU WOULD BE WRONG! Chevy still managed to put something in the FLIPPIN' WAY on the 2 wheel model that's not on the 4 wheel model. And I wouldn't have to change the starter if the FLIPPITY FLIPPIN cylanoid wasn't a piece of BAKELITE SHIT! Yes! Bakelite! That brown stuff that's brittle. It breaks if a rock hits it. It breaks if you hit a pothole hard. Hell, you can break it just putting the nuts back on to hold the flipping wiring in place. (Yeah, I did that...) And the stupid wiring harness is designed that it can go on both the right and wrong way... but you have to tell by feel since you can't see a damn thing due to shit being in the way. (Like the aforementioned drive shaft... and the starter itself.
@@jackielinde7568 that's an 80's chevy moment
@@seannewton8386 Probably not _soon_ soon. We're kind of racing against time to get all the other stuff done before winter comes.
Hey man, just wanted to say that I was struggling with removing and replacing the passenger side sunroof drain on my LR4 earlier today. I took a break, put on this video, and cursed along with you as you installed the gas tank. Something about hearing someone else struggle with their project helped me finish my task. Here's to driveway mechanics everywhere. Kudos
Spent yesterday evening trying to install a towbar on a low-mileage 18-year-old Nissan hatchback - but I don't have a driveway; the car is in a car park across the road from my apartment
as a serb it brings me joy to see the yugo pimped out with some nice stuff and still having your diy-ish personal touch. Yay
24:00 the switch choice was perfect cosmetically but with regard to function you need to connect a little chip circuit to ensure it only works randomly about half the time. 😃
RE: The gas tank, unsure if it's been mentioned but my initial thought was that seeing as that joint was where it was leaking from the chances were that the joint was soldered on after both the tank and neck were in place. Hence the leak. Imagine trying to solder that...
This was my thought as well.
Same. I figure they'd weld it if it were to be fastened to the tank before going in the car. But, being soldered, makes me think it was a workaround for how ill-fitting the parts would otherwise be. 1) Mount tank. 2) Route and clamp the flexi-line. 3) Route the filler and solder in place.
That's just the impression I get, though. If something is structurally soldered, odds are the soldering is post-assembly.
That is what I came down here to say. Arc welding is much quicker and easier for the factory to do than solder so one would assume they would do that if it was an assembly that was installed. They probably soldered it because there wasn't clearance to weld it after the tank was in place but they could heat it and bend the solder into a hook and get in there.
They probably did it that way in the prototype stage and then forgot to modify the design for production until after it was already IN production and thus were stuck making the tank basically not removable. They probably didn't want to waste the effort to change the design cause they knew it was a cheap, throwaway car and no one but crazy TH-camrs would drive one long enough to need to drop the tank!
Nope...
It was in soldered befor instalation, like any other part.
It's jut realy tricky to install it, and require expirience.
Did that last time some 30+ years ago, but as I remember you should remove parking brake cable, and tension the exost pipe a bit. And yes... there is some wierd angle and rotation necessary to put it in place.
Don’t put down your old Yugo review video Robert. It was actually quite entertaining and is honestly one of my favorite videos on your channel. Keep the good content coming!
That video was the reason for me to subscribe
Wow this video was almost 40 minutes but it felt like I've only been watching for 10, I could watch hours of this!
Yes, work is awesome. I could spend hours watching others do it.
Bro the way you explain things combined with the way your voice sounds combined with your demeanor and attitude...I don't know what it is but I absolutely love this channel, I don't even really like car channels. Can't wait to binge watch all the stuff you're gonna do with these cars.
"It's amazing what you can fix with epoxy and a willingness to take things apart." 💕
You should join us for the Lemons Rally! Your projects would fit right in! Keep up the good work, and we'll keep watching!
Aging Wheels and Jay Foreman might be the only two channels where I actually want to see the sponsored section because they're always amusing
Lindybeige is also pretty good at that.
I add Drew Gooden to the list, he was the first person whose sponsored sections I actually watched. Sometimed they didn't even seem like spons at first, they just looked like part of the videos.
Welcome to Aging Wheels where we have EVERY RYOBI TOOL EVER MADE!!!
Ryobi should sponsor him.
@@bradlemmond i agree totally
@@philiprobinson9357 I'm genuinely surprised they haven't yet. Didn't DeWalt even try to sponsor Mattias Wandel when he doesn't even particularly like their tools?
That's nothing compared to mighty car mods
@@WillHeineman That True MCM have big set of ryobi tools
should always fuse the load going to the foglights so you don't burn yer yugo down in case of a dead short
What if I'm trying to slowly include ways for it to burn down? Did you think of that?
I was thinking the same thing when I saw the unfused lead coming off the battery. That's a fire waiting to happen, in my opinion.
@@N1RKW seems like he wants that to happen...but if his garage goes with it that would be bad
@@goldenpun5592 - I hope he parks the Yugo outside then. We'd hate to see you lose your awesome shop, Robert!
@@N1RKW It's Minnesota.The burning Yugo will just melt the snow off the roof and make everything sooty.
I love the fact that the windscreen wiper blades weren't roadworthy but those suspension arm bushes? They're fiiiiine!
Quick note on LED bulbs. You should also use a bulb that matches the color of the lens in most cases.
For example, if you put a red LED behind the red brake light lens, you will get a much brighter output.
I believe it is because the lens filters light except for the color of the lens. So, more light gets through.
I learned about this from Cars Simplified when he gave me LED lights for my Subaru Impreza!
I'm gonna replace the CFL bulb behind one of these same lenses in my Arcade cabinet for LED's soon and this is actually a really great tip! i was worried how bright it would be with regular white LED's, i'm gonna go for Orange ones instead! Thank you!!
@@HKT-4300 Sure thing. :)
My biggest complaint - a video so long includes so many like-worthy moments, only being able to dole out a single like feels as if we're being short-changed. As always, a delightful watch. Keep up the excellent content, sir.
This is literally the only channel on which I don't skip the sponsor spots ! And great job with Yugo of course!
Yeah; normally I get pissed when a sponsor spot is directly sneaked into the video, but this was done SO WELL, I listened to all of it.
The synchronicity of this video with the recent Technology Connections video about turn signal flashers and LEDs makes me happy.
you see what happens if you put a more powerful engine into a shit car you get a nice spicy race car
I'm not entirely sure why I was recommended this video, but your own-made-ad earned you a new subscriber.
I've always thought software engineering and car mechanicing had quite a few things in common
"Every tool's a hammer!" Lol, now I don't need to hide my secret anymore.
do you want a fast spicy Yugo ?
Every tool is a hammer until you use it as a hammer too much, then it's no longer a hammer because you stopped picking it up.
@@Webic33 that means your fist is a hammer here hammer this nail in using your fist don't stop till it's all the way in
Gotta tell you, with all the phoning it in ads for raycon, the squarespace ad was fun and I did not skip it.
16:38 Never realized how strange it looks to have lights turn on and off instantly on an old car, instead of that incandescent fade
Suggestion: Get a hold of some Mirror, from Culture Hustle. It's a paint that basically puts a full-on mirror finish on whatever you paint it on to. Barring that, just hit that tail light housing with a few coats of Krylon or Rustoleum Metallic Chrome.
It has been so refreshing to watch a person who wants to FIX and reuse, rather than replace with new. I wish the main stream car shows would have your atitude even with my local mechanic would not do what you do. Keep up the good work and there is hope.
i think the best part of trying to improve a Yugo is that there is no way to make it worse of what it was before, no matter what you do
That square space ad was amazing actually. Really got the point across! You don’t understand how happy I am you upgraded to led. Also that explanation in the flasher was so perfect and easy to understand
As a web dev, that Squarespace ad was actually really good. Oh and the content as well of course :D
How do you fit a laptop in that trash can
@@crackedemerald4930 it takes some effort, but since it's trash it fits right in
You've done the impossible. Your ad spots are genuinely entertaining
I laughed so hard at "... I'll just light a match, drop it and walk away," because that's the exact same thought I've had lingering in my mind while watching you struggle with that gas tank. 🤣🤣🤣
As someone who doesn't know a ton about cars, I appreciate the detail you put into these videos about what you're getting up to
This channel's, Internet Historian's, and Jay Foreman's are the only sponsor segments that I'll watch and not skip
Hang on now, I've seen this lesson on turn signals. It's a classic!
I love this. I had one for a field car when I was like 7 years old. Lol. Learned how to drive stick in that monster. As I believe it had Bosch fuel injection. It was actually fast... but I was young, and it died and we couldn't get parts to fix it...
As a (former) Yugoslav, I thank you for doing this! My dad had the "Koral 45" which had as the name suggests 45 HP lol
45 KW
Not HP.
@@rebellion-starwars Nope...
It was 45 HP, in "Yugo/Koral 45". 903cc engine ( Fiat 100 series, that was in fiat 127, OHV, descendant of engine from old fiat 600)
1.1l engine (Fiat 128.A..., originaly from Fiat 128, SOHC), had few variants, basic 55HP and 60HP (two barrell carburator, or later EFI), and it was from "Yugo/Koral 55/60"
1.3l engine had 65HP (also FIat, actualy, borred out 1100cc, and two barrelcarb, althow an EFI version existed and it was exported to USA). Obviously.. "Yugo/Koral 65"
What I love about your videos like these is that you show all these little machines that come together to make a big, complete car machine!
If something is gonna be a nightmare to fix is the gas tank. After watching Ronnie fingerboy try and fix the gas tank in the fiero WAY too many times I can definitely say that if I need to do anything gas tank related it will be with new parts
yeah good luck with new fuel tanks for yugos :D
@@kosir1234 there's one mounted to every snow blower ;)
I always liked how the Yugo look. In the late 90s there was one for sale at a local used car dealer. I didn't have yet my licence but I wanted it. Lucky for me I didn't have my licence, seeing all you needed to do to this one! lol
I'm from Serbia, and although I haven't worked in Yugos yet, it seems to me that all the people who tune them here use a lot smaller wheels, mostly 13". Anyway, seeing you struggle to get the steering right, I think they might be doing it for a reason. If you think about implementing that idea, I might help you with translating some of the Serbian tuners videos or blog posts. Cheers!
i love how the whole ínstalling the gas tank part reminded me of how irritating my work on car damage repair is, lots fiddling around and cursing and throwing tools across the shop
THANK YOU for taking apart the speedometer. I have been wondering about the inner workings of those for a while, but i've been waaaaay too lazy to actually look it up.
Nerdy note: that specific style of straight-slot screw in the gauge cluster is a "filister head screw"
Wow, I haven't heard the term "filister head screw" in many years! I love knowing the differences between Phillips, Crosspoint, and Posidrive screws, knowing that Bristol Spline screws and drivers exist. I have two slightly different versions of Phillips II driver bits, too.
@@bobblum5973 Don't forget JIS screws, though the JIS screwdriver standard doesn't exist anymore and any decent DIN 5260-PH Phillips screwdriver works fine on Japanese cross head screws -- whether or not the screwdriver comes from Japan (or instead Taiwan or Europe) -- as the DIN standard matches the main features of the JIS standard. (An old-fashioned Phillips screwdriver will however still cam out and damage torqued-down JIS screws badly when trying to undo them...)
@@TassieLorenzo Oh, I didn't forget, my list most definitely wasn't comprehensive. You're right, those JIS screwheads cause headaches when people try to use the wrong driver. I understand in a pinch you might need to make do with what you have, but I've seen too many times where people used a hex driver ("Allen" type bit or wrench) on a Torx head screw. (A pet peeve of mine is hearing someone call a Torx a "star" bit or socket.) I have a set of Bristol spline drivers from decades back when electronic control knobs used them for their set screws. Things like that got me started on acquiring quite a few specialty hand tools, like a special thin-walled nutdriver for data connector lockdown posts (D-series for RS-232), or a set of extra-long security Torx bits I needed to fix a coffee maker. The right tool for the job always makes things easier, while I admit sometimes a big hammer or a torch is necessary!
I have had several German Ford Capri's with VERY similar suspension. A little toe-out always kept mine tracking straight and no more death wobble
Shouldn't slight toe in be more stable than toe out?
@@jokumukamikalie nope slight toe out keeps both tires pulling away from each other causing the car to track straight with both facing slightly in any bump in the road will cause them to go which ever direction has more traction
Rob, I gotta tell ya, watching you with that spreader tool for the lower control arms was the most fun I’ve had on your channel. Thanks so much.
I have used that same exact tool with precisely equal "success": It does the job perfectly, just not quite predictably! ;-)
You put it in a bind and tap knuckle with a hammer....or drift and hammer....or air hammer.
This is one of the best laughs I have had in years! What you are going through was typical of every owner of a cheap British Leyland's car; they were so badly built and we could not afford to take it to a garage to fix it! So, we had to do it ourselves. They were nearly as bad as your Yugo. persevere and you will get there. You will end up with a beautiful car built by you! I know; I have been there.
I test drove one of these in Atlanta when they first came out. It was brand spanking new and a rattlebucket. I didn't want one, even though I couldn't afford anything else. I went with used. I'm glad.
I am actually loving this series…..yugo has a lot of hate, but watching this is entertaining and fun!
I feel like cars that get the most hate end up being the most rewarding projects.
I've got two. Great cars actually. Very simple. Issues that would brick a new Lincoln Navigator or whatever are a five minute fix on the Yugo.
It took 2 whole minutes to see a single ryobi tool, you're slacking.
Literally the first frame after the squarespace ad 00:05 you can see the Ryobi lawnmower on the left
LOL
@@stella1444 shut up. You don't know nothing. About anything. Jk, good spot. I do have an iq of about 38, so it's no surprise I missed that.
I geeked out a bit over the belt file. It's no Dynabrade, but it's still neato.
28:36 yessss my favorite style of ball joint buster. They work great but scare the piss out of you every time, no matter how often you use it.
Btw, pro tip on those. Just keep cranking. Even if it hasn't busted yet, just keep torquing on it and it'll eventually go POP. No need for heat.
I just tighten it up until it feels like it's about to break/bend and then smack the bottom with a big hammer.
@@ferrumignis You actually want to smack the side of the spindle to distort the tapered hole.
@@JasonWW2000 Here where I live everyone remove ball joint it that way (most older cars had very beaten up spindle)
@@JasonWW2000 If you can get to it yes, but you have to hit it along the axis of the steering arm and very often that impossible with one of these ball joint pullers on it.
@@ferrumignis You don't even need a ball joint puller. You can use the cars weight to put a preload on the joint.
Thanks for this great tinkering experience! While the mechanical and electrical problems have definitely not played nice with this car, there is one fact that is really going for it: it's fixable! Screws, bolts, springs etc can be repaired and improved in the process. Doing so with a late model car at this age will be close to impossible.
That ball joint removal surprise reminded me of my brake rotor removal surprise. Used a puller to remove my insanely stuck front rotors, did as much as I could with an electric impact wrench until it could do no more. Then continued turning the bolt by hand with a breaker bar. When it finally released, the entire assembly (rotor, puller, and breaker bar) jumped off the car about 2' outward effectively hurling about 75lbs of metal at me jack-in-the-box style. So glad I was doing this on the ground and not on a lift, and so glad my shin wasn't in it's trajectory.
I loved the ball joint removal surprise, that always happens to me too!
I wonder if the gas filler was soldered in after installation? And I also wonder if that jack crushing was less "lift the car" and more "force the tank back into place" damage.
nah, they werent soldered after... its just nightmarish to put it in... 35year old grommets dont help either
Probably installed into the shell before the handbrake cable. Or any of the suspension.
@@EmyrDerfel yeah it is instaled before handbrake cable, because the fuel tank has 2fixing points for the cable
@@EmyrDerfel you only have to remove 2 clips to get the cable disconected from the rear drums its realy easy tbh
@@kosir1234 ok but first I would need to find a Yugo.
I would have put the filler neck and the gas tank in there separately since they were already broken apart and then soldered them after they were lined up that way everything's in its correct place all you need to do is finish connecting The lines and you are done. Good work though you stuck with it longer than I would have.
this was my thought too, but then you have the issue of 360° access to solder it in situ
I thought the same thing but at the same time I have been in a similar situation and thought "thats not what they do in the factory so its probably not safe.....(2hrs later)...F*%K IT I DONT CARE HOW SAFE IT IS!" this type of thinking is why I have sooo many scars lol
That car sounds incredible with those carburettors! most people these days have been told lies about carbs saying they are unreliable and make no power and its a shame we dont see many carb setups about, definitely beats having an ecu and sensors in my opinion!
I have only a few channels that I truly look forward to new content from, and yours is one of them! I must admit (and I apologize for it) that I laughed out loud when the ball joints suffered from sudden explosive come-apart syndrome! Robert, your combination of extreme competence tempered by "learning things the hard way" makes yours one of the most entertaining channels in current production. Please keep up the good (?) work!
Somewhat reassuring to see someone go through the exact same issues I had to fix on my Yugo (steering rack, control arm bushings, numerous electrical issues). Having a lift certainly seems like it makes things a bit easier though! Definitely will be following as you do more to the car.
Something tells me that exchange about struggling to learn web design in the mid-video ad was mostly biographical.
you supposed to get some tension on ball joint with splitter and hit the part touching bottom of a ball joint with a hummer, but i guess ignoring it and hitting it with heat works to :P
Hitting it with a Hummer will absolutely get the ball joint out of the socket...It may also get everything else out too...
@@nuclearusa16120 if you put tension on a ball joint you just need to tapp it and it will pop
@@fila1445 I was making a joke. :) You accidentally misspelled "hammer" as "hummer", which happens to be the name of a very big SUV. Thus, my comment that hitting the splitter with a [large SUV] would get everything else out too. ;)
@@nuclearusa16120 well yes it would xD
I gotta say, I usually jump through the ads in videos, but your ad was so amusing, I actually watched the whole thing. :) Really!
I loved my Yugo! It was the only new car I've ever bought. 3999.99 new! Sound system 1200k. Lasted 1.25 yrs. After 2 motors (warranty) the .25 it died. Pushed it into a Old's dealer. Bought a 1986 cutlas. Coupe. 3.8 v6 loved it! At 61 yrs old I want my Yugo back!
Great fun. May I suggest an illuminated switch for the foglights, and getting the tie rods shortened (professionally) to allow you to adjust the toe. The offset of the wheels may mean you always have a bit of bump steer though
You are always SO entertaining to watch! Love the "Tackle the fog lights" joke. I'm, guessing the speedometer is going to be a bit off with those over-sized tires that Freddy and Jared put on her. Oh well - just another item on the long list of things to "adjust" on that car. It'll certainly be the world's coolest Yugo when it's done! ... "world's coolest Yugo" - there's a statement no one ever thought would be said, right?
How long did you spend in the dot of the "i" in Jeremy Bearimy? Is that when/where you are permanently installing a gas tank in a Yugo?
It's a good place to start! 😊
That dot broke me. I'm now broken. I'm done.
I love the the gifted Yugo is getting it finishing touches. I know how it feels when you make some repairs expecting a certain result and problem not fixed. As long as you eventually get it done the new steering rack ect have been replaced now. the fact it's a Super powered Yugo makes it all worthwhile.
This was a very interesting video! Although I want to say, you might want to check the speedometer with a GPS speedometer, because the way I see it the pretension of the spring affects the swing (??? I don't know if this is the right word in english) of the needle for any given rotational speed of the magnet.
I don't care about cars at all. But because of TC, I still checked out your videos, and days later I'm already incredibly invested in what will happen to this Yugo. Thanks Alec!
I liked the "every tools a hammer" musical moment. It's so true.
Looking forward to see the final result of this, watching you makes me miss the times I've spent working on cars and mopeds myself. One of those few things that calms me down and gives me a nice challenge for the brain, definitely relating to the frustration of not understanding how something goes in place or fits together haha!
Self-fusing silicone tape works well as a temporary repair for split CV boots to keep sand or water out while new boots are on order.
Rob´s the only guy that actually makes me voluntarily sit through the sponsorship part, he does make it fun
Him: "My new rubbers came in the mail"
Me: :-O
Him: "Calm down"
Me: :-I
she prefers bareback
My favorite series of yours. Can’t wait for the next episode.
Wait, so - the Yugo passed its inspection without a working speedometer? That really feels like something a safety inspection should catch heh. Either way, really happy to see that this car is coming together - like a frankenstein Phoenix made of rusted steel and aftermarket parts, held together by socialist hopes and dreams.
*and* a gaping hole in the CV boot? It amazes me just how, ah... varied a safety inspection can be!
It’s Missouri as long as it has wiper blades and lights it’s fine. You are responsible to make sure you won’t kill yourself with your car. We don’t like big government here.
One of the guys on the Facebook group has an NOS speedo.
In Missouri to get a safety inspection virtually all mechanics shops do it. So depending on what shop you take it to, they can be really picky or just blow you off and pass it. Safety inspections don't really stop 50% of the cars on the road in Missouri from being total unsafe shitboxes
After seeing some of the rust buckets on other USA car channels I was surprised to hear Robert needed any kind of Safety inspection. As other people have said it must vary from state to state.
I love this channel. Dear TH-cam algorithm, please give this man more subs!
First thing that got replaced on my rusty 1976 Fiat was the gas tank. For around $135 the new gas tank came from New Jersey. The tank had seen more of the U.S. than I had at that point in time. I was 15 and my dad was 42 when we tackled the tank replacement. We did not struggle as you did. It may be because we worked as a team! That was in 1982. You triggered that memory 🤔👍