hey man, stumbled across your videos. I'm getting into trucking and I'm joining the flatbed world! Thanks for the content and showing how to secure a load like this.
As an P.Eng. with a Ph.D. in structural engineering AND a class 1 truck driver licence, I would like to add these: You are right for alternating ratchet it is called Friction etc. Second, NEVER NEVER change the WLL if it is 5 400lb it is do not modify that value. Chains, straps hook etc anything can break or fail due to fatigue, small cuts, rain will have an impact on strap. HOURRA
Finally. I would like to congratulate you sir. After dozens upon dozens of videos you sir are the first one I have seen actually do it correctly. Kudos.
My theory is, cover my WLL & number I need for the length and add 1 strap or chain. I would much rather spend a hour rolling straps and hanging chains than be setting on the side of I-75 with my load hanging off my wagon!!!!
That may even cover you if for example you miss wear and tear on one of your straps and chains and the DOT officer cuts the load limit for that strap or chain.
From a retired Ca. DOT officer...there is NO scenario where the working load limit(WLL) is doubled when a strap is used as an indirect tie down as stated at 2:07 . WLLs are only de-rated due to several variables like angle of pull, anchor point WLL or penalty straps. Direct tie down WLLs such as chains only give 50%. This is the internet...CONSIDER YOUR SOURCE. Please make a correction video or edit that portion.
Haha yeah he clearly didn't know. Hopefully he learned. You have to secure 50% minimum of whatever the load weighs. So 26K/2 is 13. WLL of 5400 x 2 = 10800. So he needs 3 minimum. WLL doesn't magically double on a strap. WLL only changes if you have direct tiedowns in which case you get half credit so it might be 2600 for example.
👏 nice catch CHP! I’ve been bored and decided to go through Driven’s Securement videos lately while I work on building my shed. So I’ve been listening, and not watching. And I dang near spit out the water I was drinking as I heard what he just said. Doubling the WLL for indirect lol that’s a big noooooope. So I gotta chime in here too. Even tho it’s 1 year + later on the video. The CA DOT officer is 100% correct. “Adrenaline 4 life” is almost correct too. 49% of the load Securement is due to friction & gravity. That means 51% of the loads weight has to be Securement for. So if it weighs 40,000 lbs you need to secure for 51% of that. That’s 20,400lbs of Securement. It’s easy to vastly go over that amount in most cases. Most people just think 50% of the load because it’s way easier to do math than 51%. Glad someone else caught his mess-up. He was incorrect about “direct” Securement versus “indirect” Securement also in another video but I didn’t bother to comment there. glad everyone is out here commenting and helping. Keep it safe, and if you ever have questions just ask around. ✌️
If a load of rebar weighed 47,000 lbs how many straps are you required? The answer is 10 If a 4 in strap gives you 2500 then that covers 50000 lbs of weight. Of course the rebar I hauled I use 2 chains front and back but the point is you get credit for each side of trailer it’s secured to. 2500 on each side.
Good job on the all the videos. I drive a car hauler. But I pulled a reefer dry box and tanker. But am trying to get in flat beds...be safe out there and thanks ✌
Thanks a lot Jose, if you have any questions be sure to ask. Even if I don’t answer back quickly there’s a lot of flatbedders watching and are usually helpful as well.
You should make a video about the line down the middle of the strap. Maybe you have an I've missed it. I see a ton of guys not paying attention to this line.
You have opened this comment section to review and correction and one of the comments asks for a correction when explaining securement in regards to WEIGHT not length. I agree so let me help explain. Those of you looking for help on TH-cam need to use this as a tool, after you have read through the securement laws. The law says you must secure a MINIMUM of 50% of the weight of the cargo. If it weighs 13,000# you must have an total tiedown aggregate WLL of AT LEAST 6,500# That being said an indirect tiedown is worth 100% of its WLL. This is the tiedown method used in this video. If using straps with 5400# WLL, you would need at least two. A direct tiedown is worth 50% of its WLL. Again this is in regards to weight.
You are the best Sir ! I wish I knew where you are located to see you in person as I have tons of question and I need your guidance. Where is your company to come and learn the trade? Always stay safe as you are.
Hello sir, I would like to thank you for the informative videos you provide. I wanted to ask for some advice... I currently drive a refer trailer as an O/O but I wanted to transition to flatbed. I believe I'm physically and mentally ready but of course I do a lot better with in person training... And I was trying to avoid becoming a Company driver to learn the flatbed industry... Do you have any suggestion on how should I conquer this?
I know you don't know me, so it may be hard to give a direct answer. But, I got my cdl about 3 months ago, from there I went and drove a mule train log truck for a month with a friend so I could receive extra training. My heaviest load was 101,300 lbs. Usually around 96,000 lbs. I'm looking into a flat bed truck company who offers training, would you recommend a rookie going into a flat bed?
Great info, I have 7 years on dry van OTR experience and 1 year in my own authority and planning to switch to flatbed. I can’t find someone to train me about load securement but I find videos like yours very helpful. My question is which flatbed trailer is good and is it worth to get a conestoga or no?
Don't let somebody sell you a completely flat trailer that means it's been used and abused,, you want a trailer with the good Arch on it. Think of it like your back when it's brand-new you can put a lot of weight on it but as you get older it starts to flatten out and weaken... Just kidding I just made that up I'm getting ready to start flatbedding this week and I'm researching how to do it properly like yourself hope it works out
I'm new in the industry but from what I learned, since you dont have a false bulk head or header board to block your weight from shifting forward during hard breaking..... I think you should have another from the front pulling backwards. Let me know if I'm wrong.
General Lee catch the header boards are reserved for something that can easily slide like plate steel or sometimes I beam, you can never have too much securement so if it would make you feel better to put that extra strap on by all means, do so.
I do have a GoPro hero seven black for road footage and I have your typical normal tripod but I mainly use the Joby gorilla pods. I also have a Canon EOS 80D. Thank you very much
Question, I’m going into flatbed hotshot and I know the same rules apply but I will also be new to the transport industry. I have driving experience from local business and all which probably doesn’t amount to much. What advice would you give to someone like myself that’s new going into it?
Is there a good market out there for curtain van trailers? I know they have their limits but they look bad ass. Especially the 48' ones with a spread axle and tool boxes. I prefer those over connies.
I’m not sure, I know most places don’t like to load cons with an overhead crane as it is but some still will. That would completely cut anything going up top. It really just depends how specialized you haul. If you’re set up to make that work for you, of course it’s a great investment but I believe that’s a very specialized trailer ( not positive on that though )
This dude isn't qualified to be a trainer...why would you ask to be trained by him ? Best way to learn is to get your ass out there and do it..pay attention to the others around and if you have a question, ask ! When you see other trks as your driving by , look and see how they secure that type of load ...pay attention around you ...good luck and be safe
I'm about to get my own authority and want to buy a flatbed. I have almost no flatbed experience. You think I can learn everything I need with youtube videos?
I believe that the rules say "practical" or maybe "practicable", which is a quasi-legal term that is a bit less accommodating than practical. I haven't read the rules lately. It's always possible. I NEVER anchor to the rub rail. Aside from the rules, I think it's a foolish thing to do. Doing so completely annuls the entire purpose the rub rail is there, even if it is rated for use as an anchor. If it's not rated ....
Active Release Technique from specialized chiropractors or physio might help. It totally fixed my right shoulder. A ratcheting load bar could help a lot.
Sorry - Indirect allows 100% of WLL - and indirect 50% - Perhaps you misspoke and meant to say that a indirect strap allows you to double what a direct tiedown allows. It (indirect tiedown) DOES NOT double the WLL (Working Load Limit) FYI - if hauling in Canada - keep in mind for aggregate WLL there is no differentiation - aggregate is calculated so that at least 50% of the weight of the cargo is secured - round up to add a strap same as one inch over 10ft of length.
Some of the different trailers, for example some steps, don’t have the rails underneath so that’s a solution to use straps in certain areas of the trailer. I’ve used them before, to me I prefer just the hooks but to each their own.
Chain ends allow for angled pulls without any adverse effects. If you've got a tapered item like a cement mixer drum or some odd shaped item, the shortest distance over the load (the line that the strap will migrate toward even if you place it somewhere else) is not going to be a straight line pull to the winch or the strap hook. Similarly, if you want to place crossing straps around the front of the load to prevent forward movement similar to a header or headboard, which some shippers require on some cargo like pipes or billets, that's difficult to accomplish with straps designed only for in-line pulls. Chain ends can also be connected to other anchors such as the stake pockets on the back of a flatbed or the tongue of a bumper-pull trailer which supports placing straps at angles that wouldn't be available with strap hooks. Also, on my trailer, the winches and anchors are on tracks that don't extend fully to the front or rear of the trailer, so if I want to place a strap very near either end of my trailer, I reach for my chain ends and hook to a stake pocket or the pipe anchor. For me, the only downside is that the ability to pull at an angle means the rachet needs to be portable, which is one more (rather bulky) item to stow someplace and I don't find that I can apply the same tension that I can with mounted winches, nor are they as durable.
Is it just me or dot standards are to use 1.5 of its weight for securement? For instance your load is 10000lbs, you must secure for 15000lbs(3 straps for instance). Correct me if I’m wrong.
I don’t believe so, on indirect securement (one side of trailer to the other ) the securement counts for twice its limit. For indirect (trailer to cargo) it’s just it’s normal limit if you are to secure the entire weight limit of the cargo.
Driven Trucking , trailer to cargo is a direct securement. I’ve did a little research, and you are right. I just can’t get it through my head because it feels like it’s not enough.
5400 lbs straps but whats your rail rated for If rail is rated at 4000 lbs your strap is only going hold 4000 before it could give Just found you enjoying videos Be safe
"Federal law.....All tiedowns and other components of a cargo securement system used to secure loads on a trailer equipped with rub rails must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever practicable....FMCSA cargo securement." That being stated...the way this load is tied down could get a fine for every strap. Hook end of strap needs to go to part of trailer that is not the rubrail. I prefer 4" straps with a chain and hook end....you can wrap the chain around a fully welded pipe spool or undamaged pocket. Any weld cracks or deformation renders them unusable. For straps, the best way is to have a flat bar under the side rail (outer structure of deck, not the rub rail). That flat bar would have to be of sufficient width and welded/bolted to the cross members. On flat hooks....all pull against the hook must be in a straight line...if you have the hook positioned so that pull is angled against the end of the hook where the strap is looped and sewn...it will eventually fail.
You never connect to the rub rail!!!!!! The rub rail was designed to protect the straps from being cut in the event the trailer "rubs" against something. The straps are to be secured "inboard" of the rub rail and for tall loads put a "twist" in your strap to prevent the strap from buzzing going down the road.
I believe the rub rail could potentially secure a load in fact I see a lot on the highways everyday and I'm not trying to discriminate here. The rub rail pockets can be used for example: choking the pocket using chains and choking the 3 sides (left, bottom, right) , but in regards to using the rub rail itself as a sole securemnt location will always make the straps vulnerable in a rollover or sideswipe contact situation. Public safety is the key, I have no authority here I can only make suggestions, so as often as is feasible use load securemnt locations on the structure of the trailer not the rubrail. As always safe travels!
Why aren't your straps 1/2 twisted. When you strap flat like you have, they will vibrate in the wind and can wear the strap or the load. Also, the rub rail is not always rated for load securement. That can depend on the trailer. As well, why wasn't the pipe wrapped with the strap. You can't just throw your strap over the top. When strapping down any load, you should check the tightness in the 1st mile, the 20th mile, and every opportunity after that. You are sharing the road with the public and that should never be forgotten.
He absolutely brings up why in the video. There are a 1000 ways to skin a cat and the same applies to securement. I don’t twist my straps on pipe, billets, lumber, or shingles. There’s no point. Drywall and foam I do. I don’t like twisted straps, intentional or not. Looks sloppy too
Never ever ever is the WLL doubled!!!!! With chains you get half the WLL with a direct connection, and full WLL if going from rail to rail. This might be where you misinterpreted the ideal of double. New people should run from this video!
Well you still get the same amount of working load limit, it’s easiest to look at it like this. Think of the load’s entire weight, indirect securement‘s minimum requirement is half the load’s weight, direct securement is the entire load’s weight. And honestly I don’t remember which video this is so I can’t comment on the bulkhead 😂
one tiedown for articles 5 ft or less in length, and 1,100 lbs or less in weight; two tiedowns if the article is - 5 ft or less in length and more than 1,100 lbs in weight; or greater than 5 ft but less than 10 ft, regardless of weight. So your securement in this video is wrong again 😮
The video is poorly organized. State the rule and the overall philosophy and then physically show how to do it and do not include the exceptions to the rule. That only adds confusion to the beginner
I agree. Kudos for the effort, but the execution was dismal. "Securement 101" didn't even touch on some of the basics such as determining the rating of the various components of the securement or describing the various types of securement tools. With the laudable reception of the angled strap, nothing was mentioned about common errors to avoid. And much of the information was simply incorrect, like the WLL and hooking to the rub rail. Again, I appreciate the willingness to step out there and creat this video. I don't feel like I could make that a priority for me to do. Unfortunately, it was lacking critical detail and filled with misinformation. I cringe when I read the comments about this being so valuable to the reader.
I'm starting flatbedding next week and this video gave me a lot of advice, thank you for taking time out if your day to make this video
How's it going?
It's not too hard to tell when someone knows what they are talking about. This video is hell of solid. I am new to Flatbeading & Thanks!
I'm a city bus driver. And about to start driving flatbed. I drove refer back in the day
hey man, stumbled across your videos. I'm getting into trucking and I'm joining the flatbed world! Thanks for the content and showing how to secure a load like this.
I’m new to flatbed. 2 weeks new. But your videos are so helpful. Thank you
How’s it going for you now?
As an P.Eng. with a Ph.D. in structural engineering AND a class 1 truck driver licence, I would like to add these: You are right for alternating ratchet it is called Friction etc. Second, NEVER NEVER change the WLL if it is 5 400lb it is do not modify that value. Chains, straps hook etc anything can break or fail due to fatigue, small cuts, rain will have an impact on strap. HOURRA
Thank you bro for taking the time. let's keep growing. Keep up the great work!
Finally. I would like to congratulate you sir. After dozens upon dozens of videos you sir are the first one I have seen actually do it correctly. Kudos.
My theory is, cover my WLL & number I need for the length and add 1 strap or chain.
I would much rather spend a hour rolling straps and hanging chains than be setting on the side of I-75 with my load hanging off my wagon!!!!
That may even cover you if for example you miss wear and tear on one of your straps and chains and the DOT officer cuts the load limit for that strap or chain.
This is beautifully delivered valuable information, for free! Thank you brother.
From a retired Ca. DOT officer...there is NO scenario where the working load limit(WLL) is doubled when a strap is used as an indirect tie down as stated at 2:07 . WLLs are only de-rated due to several variables like angle of pull, anchor point WLL or penalty straps. Direct tie down WLLs such as chains only give 50%. This is the internet...CONSIDER YOUR SOURCE. Please make a correction video or edit that portion.
Haha yeah he clearly didn't know. Hopefully he learned. You have to secure 50% minimum of whatever the load weighs. So 26K/2 is 13. WLL of 5400 x 2 = 10800. So he needs 3 minimum. WLL doesn't magically double on a strap. WLL only changes if you have direct tiedowns in which case you get half credit so it might be 2600 for example.
From a 3rd generation trucker. And I mean this from the bottom of my heart; only a total
a$$hole becomes/retires from being a
DOT d!ckhe@d!
@@adrenaline4life233 You are correct.
👏 nice catch CHP! I’ve been bored and decided to go through Driven’s Securement videos lately while I work on building my shed. So I’ve been listening, and not watching. And I dang near spit out the water I was drinking as I heard what he just said. Doubling the WLL for indirect lol that’s a big noooooope. So I gotta chime in here too. Even tho it’s 1 year + later on the video.
The CA DOT officer is 100% correct. “Adrenaline 4 life” is almost correct too.
49% of the load Securement is due to friction & gravity. That means 51% of the loads weight has to be Securement for.
So if it weighs 40,000 lbs you need to secure for 51% of that. That’s 20,400lbs of Securement. It’s easy to vastly go over that amount in most cases. Most people just think 50% of the load because it’s way easier to do math than 51%.
Glad someone else caught his mess-up. He was incorrect about “direct” Securement versus “indirect” Securement also in another video but I didn’t bother to comment there. glad everyone is out here commenting and helping.
Keep it safe, and if you ever have questions just ask around. ✌️
If a load of rebar weighed 47,000 lbs how many straps are you required? The answer is 10
If a 4 in strap gives you 2500 then that covers 50000 lbs of weight.
Of course the rebar I hauled I use 2 chains front and back but the point is you get credit for each side of trailer it’s secured to. 2500 on each side.
Very informative. I learned a lot watching this. Thank you.
Thanks I needed to know this you can't ever know or learn too much.
Awesome info 👍 thank you I'm just starting out with stepdeck and this is needed information
Thanks for watching 👍🏻 I’ve been in your shoes and know how it is, hopefully my videos like these are clear and concise
Good job on the all the videos. I drive a car hauler. But I pulled a reefer dry box and tanker.
But am trying to get in flat beds...be safe out there and thanks ✌
Your videos is perfect full of important information
Just started doing flatbed I’m looking at all your videos
Thanks a lot Jose, if you have any questions be sure to ask. Even if I don’t answer back quickly there’s a lot of flatbedders watching and are usually helpful as well.
You should make a video about the line down the middle of the strap. Maybe you have an I've missed it. I see a ton of guys not paying attention to this line.
You have opened this comment section to review and correction and one of the comments asks for a correction when explaining securement in regards to WEIGHT not length. I agree so let me help explain.
Those of you looking for help on TH-cam need to use this as a tool, after you have read through the securement laws.
The law says you must secure a MINIMUM of 50% of the weight of the cargo. If it weighs 13,000# you must have an total tiedown aggregate WLL of AT LEAST 6,500#
That being said an indirect tiedown is worth 100% of its WLL. This is the tiedown method used in this video. If using straps with 5400# WLL, you would need at least two.
A direct tiedown is worth 50% of its WLL.
Again this is in regards to weight.
You are the best Sir ! I wish I knew where you are located to see you in person as I have tons of question and I need your guidance. Where is your company to come and learn the trade? Always stay safe as you are.
Hello sir, I would like to thank you for the informative videos you provide. I wanted to ask for some advice... I currently drive a refer trailer as an O/O but I wanted to transition to flatbed. I believe I'm physically and mentally ready but of course I do a lot better with in person training... And I was trying to avoid becoming a Company driver to learn the flatbed industry... Do you have any suggestion on how should I conquer this?
What do you prefer for winches mytee products or kenodyne?
I know you don't know me, so it may be hard to give a direct answer. But, I got my cdl about 3 months ago, from there I went and drove a mule train log truck for a month with a friend so I could receive extra training. My heaviest load was 101,300 lbs. Usually around 96,000 lbs. I'm looking into a flat bed truck company who offers training, would you recommend a rookie going into a flat bed?
Awesome video
Great info, I have 7 years on dry van OTR experience and 1 year in my own authority and planning to switch to flatbed. I can’t find someone to train me about load securement but I find videos like yours very helpful. My question is which flatbed trailer is good and is it worth to get a conestoga or no?
Don't let somebody sell you a completely flat trailer that means it's been used and abused,, you want a trailer with the good Arch on it.
Think of it like your back when it's brand-new you can put a lot of weight on it but as you get older it starts to flatten out and weaken...
Just kidding I just made that up I'm getting ready to start flatbedding this week and I'm researching how to do it properly like yourself hope it works out
How did it go? Did you start yet? 2 years on my own auth as well planning on buying a flatbed end of the year and start hauling January .
@@adamhearts9195 Hahahahaha good luck to you.
@@2233Cascade I’m starting tomorrow because I just got the trailer last week and just got done getting everything ready.
Are those straps hooked to the rub rail?
Great info, definitely appreciate your guidance 🤙🏼
Absolutely, thanks for watching! There will be more to come 😊
I'm new in the industry but from what I learned, since you dont have a false bulk head or header board to block your weight from shifting forward during hard breaking..... I think you should have another from the front pulling backwards. Let me know if I'm wrong.
General Lee catch the header boards are reserved for something that can easily slide like plate steel or sometimes I beam, you can never have too much securement so if it would make you feel better to put that extra strap on by all means, do so.
I have no idea how do u tight your load how do you connect the strips to the flat bed trailer
This is so helpful thanks for the video love it
No problem, thanks a lot Carlos!
Or..just strap the holy hell out of it 😁
You are very helpful and full of character. Thank you so much. I subscribe.
Hey driven what camera and tripod are you using, a go pro hero 7.. Always do a great job. Tripod does good also. Just don't know what you use.
I do have a GoPro hero seven black for road footage and I have your typical normal tripod but I mainly use the Joby gorilla pods. I also have a Canon EOS 80D. Thank you very much
good video Thank you
Thnx 4 sharing your knowledge.reallly helps alot.thankyou
My pleasure 😊👍🏻
Question, I’m going into flatbed hotshot and I know the same rules apply but I will also be new to the transport industry. I have driving experience from local business and all which probably doesn’t amount to much. What advice would you give to someone like myself that’s new going into it?
Very knowledgable...thanks
Twists - there's nothing wrong with.5 or 1 twist. It prevents the wiggling that loosens the strap over time.
You forgot its round should do butterfly strap. Goes around pipe 2nd & next to the last.
osbaldo j. ulloa
That would be 1000000000% a waste of time in this situation.
Absolutely not
Thanks, very good video
In a newbie thank you .
Is there a good market out there for curtain van trailers? I know they have their limits but they look bad ass. Especially the 48' ones with a spread axle and tool boxes. I prefer those over connies.
I’m not sure, I know most places don’t like to load cons with an overhead crane as it is but some still will. That would completely cut anything going up top. It really just depends how specialized you haul. If you’re set up to make that work for you, of course it’s a great investment but I believe that’s a very specialized trailer ( not positive on that though )
Can’t find any info on how you get paid for load securement. Like how much more do you get paid to secure the loads. No one talks about that.
Great video! Thanks for the info.👍🏻
Thanks Bonillo!
Can you be my trainer? Lol 😁thank you for pure knowledge and excellent tips
Lol, thank you so much! That’s why the channel is here 😊
This dude isn't qualified to be a trainer...why would you ask to be trained by him ? Best way to learn is to get your ass out there and do it..pay attention to the others around and if you have a question, ask ! When you see other trks as your driving by , look and see how they secure that type of load ...pay attention around you ...good luck and be safe
Where did you go sir???
Why not hook under trailer vs that aluminum rail
Very educational video. Thank BRO
Great video man.
Thank you!
I'm about to get my own authority and want to buy a flatbed. I have almost no flatbed experience. You think I can learn everything I need with youtube videos?
I would like to see how you loaded the load what did y’all set the pipe on
They were secured to pallets
Trailers equipped with Rub rails straps must be in board the rub rails
Only when possible 👍🏻
I believe that the rules say "practical" or maybe "practicable", which is a quasi-legal term that is a bit less accommodating than practical. I haven't read the rules lately. It's always possible. I NEVER anchor to the rub rail. Aside from the rules, I think it's a foolish thing to do. Doing so completely annuls the entire purpose the rub rail is there, even if it is rated for use as an anchor. If it's not rated ....
Thanks 4 ur help,, keep up the good work
Thanks dbi 👍🏻
Ty now Im going to get my notebook out
Nice lesson.
Thank you, much appreciated. That was a bit older video LOL but the advice is still the same 😊
Great video thank you 👍🏼
how do you tighten straps without messing up your shoulder? i just started flatbed and messed up my right shoulder, sadly
Active Release Technique from specialized chiropractors or physio might help. It totally fixed my right shoulder. A ratcheting load bar could help a lot.
Sorry - Indirect allows 100% of WLL - and indirect 50% - Perhaps you misspoke and meant to say that a indirect strap allows you to double what a direct tiedown allows. It (indirect tiedown) DOES NOT double the WLL (Working Load Limit)
FYI - if hauling in Canada - keep in mind for aggregate WLL there is no differentiation - aggregate is calculated so that at least 50% of the weight of the cargo is secured - round up to add a strap same as one inch over 10ft of length.
If you have questions about prime inc flatbed message me and i will help you with any questions.
When did it go to 10' , It use to be every 8' . How old am I ?
I’m not sure, I know it was that way in 2016 but I don’t know anything prior.
What is the purpose of straps with chain ends?
Some of the different trailers, for example some steps, don’t have the rails underneath so that’s a solution to use straps in certain areas of the trailer. I’ve used them before, to me I prefer just the hooks but to each their own.
@@DrivenTrucking Thank you, and thanks for all you insight. These videos are extremely helpful to us new guys.
Capt. Hayes thank you for watching 👍🏻
Chain ends allow for angled pulls without any adverse effects. If you've got a tapered item like a cement mixer drum or some odd shaped item, the shortest distance over the load (the line that the strap will migrate toward even if you place it somewhere else) is not going to be a straight line pull to the winch or the strap hook. Similarly, if you want to place crossing straps around the front of the load to prevent forward movement similar to a header or headboard, which some shippers require on some cargo like pipes or billets, that's difficult to accomplish with straps designed only for in-line pulls. Chain ends can also be connected to other anchors such as the stake pockets on the back of a flatbed or the tongue of a bumper-pull trailer which supports placing straps at angles that wouldn't be available with strap hooks. Also, on my trailer, the winches and anchors are on tracks that don't extend fully to the front or rear of the trailer, so if I want to place a strap very near either end of my trailer, I reach for my chain ends and hook to a stake pocket or the pipe anchor. For me, the only downside is that the ability to pull at an angle means the rachet needs to be portable, which is one more (rather bulky) item to stow someplace and I don't find that I can apply the same tension that I can with mounted winches, nor are they as durable.
Is it just me or dot standards are to use 1.5 of its weight for securement? For instance your load is 10000lbs, you must secure for 15000lbs(3 straps for instance). Correct me if I’m wrong.
I don’t believe so, on indirect securement (one side of trailer to the other ) the securement counts for twice its limit. For indirect (trailer to cargo) it’s just it’s normal limit if you are to secure the entire weight limit of the cargo.
Driven Trucking , trailer to cargo is a direct securement.
I’ve did a little research, and you are right.
I just can’t get it through my head because it feels like it’s not enough.
I understand, those straps and chains are crazy strong though lol
5400 lbs straps but whats your rail rated for
If rail is rated at 4000 lbs your strap is only going hold 4000 before it could give
Just found you enjoying videos
Be safe
JORGE RODRIGUEZ wll is not the same as breaking point which is 4 times the wll
"Federal law.....All tiedowns and other components of a cargo securement system used to secure loads on a trailer equipped with rub rails must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever practicable....FMCSA cargo securement." That being stated...the way this load is tied down could get a fine for every strap. Hook end of strap needs to go to part of trailer that is not the rubrail. I prefer 4" straps with a chain and hook end....you can wrap the chain around a fully welded pipe spool or undamaged pocket. Any weld cracks or deformation renders them unusable. For straps, the best way is to have a flat bar under the side rail (outer structure of deck, not the rub rail). That flat bar would have to be of sufficient width and welded/bolted to the cross members. On flat hooks....all pull against the hook must be in a straight line...if you have the hook positioned so that pull is angled against the end of the hook where the strap is looped and sewn...it will eventually fail.
That law has been recinded for years. If you read the newest version of the green book it's not in there.
@@sethmmays77 it’s still in there I just checked the fmca site
Thanks helpful.
I strap and chain load like that
Please show the tie down points dah
Thanks I am new need moor learn
Why do some old g twist there straps? Ok thks to reduce the wind going down the road gotcha
It’s to keep the straps from flapping, when you can’t cinch down on them extremely tightly, they will flap and this stops it
Hey brother hope you’re ok ?????
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CT Trucker thanks!!
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You never connect to the rub rail!!!!!! The rub rail was designed to protect the straps from being cut in the event the trailer "rubs" against something. The straps are to be secured "inboard" of the rub rail and for tall loads put a "twist" in your strap to prevent the strap from buzzing going down the road.
Some rub rails are rated for securement 👍🏻
I believe the rub rail could potentially secure a load in fact I see a lot on the highways everyday and I'm not trying to discriminate here. The rub rail pockets can be used for example: choking the pocket using chains and choking the 3 sides (left, bottom, right) , but in regards to using the rub rail itself as a sole securemnt location will always make the straps vulnerable in a rollover or sideswipe contact situation. Public safety is the key, I have no authority here I can only make suggestions, so as often as is feasible use load securemnt locations on the structure of the trailer not the rubrail. As always safe travels!
dblackkw I agree, it’s certainly more safe to not use the pocket when possible 👍🏻
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Why aren't your straps 1/2 twisted. When you strap flat like you have, they will vibrate in the wind and can wear the strap or the load. Also, the rub rail is not always rated for load securement. That can depend on the trailer. As well, why wasn't the pipe wrapped with the strap. You can't just throw your strap over the top. When strapping down any load, you should check the tightness in the 1st mile, the 20th mile, and every opportunity after that. You are sharing the road with the public and that should never be forgotten.
DOT regulations state within the first 50 miles and then every 150 miles or 3 hours, whichever comes first. FMCSA 392.9 section b.
He absolutely brings up why in the video. There are a 1000 ways to skin a cat and the same applies to securement. I don’t twist my straps on pipe, billets, lumber, or shingles. There’s no point. Drywall and foam I do. I don’t like twisted straps, intentional or not. Looks sloppy too
It's bumpy near my yard I check straps less then a mile usually at that point load seddled
Not on pipe don’t twist you can’t tell if it’s loose in the mirror
Never ever ever is the WLL doubled!!!!!
With chains you get half the WLL with a direct connection, and full WLL if going from rail to rail. This might be where you misinterpreted the ideal of double.
New people should run from this video!
Indirect counts for half the wll.....and why not build a bulkhead on it!? 😳
Well you still get the same amount of working load limit, it’s easiest to look at it like this. Think of the load’s entire weight, indirect securement‘s minimum requirement is half the load’s weight, direct securement is the entire load’s weight. And honestly I don’t remember which video this is so I can’t comment on the bulkhead 😂
It would be nice if you put the camera where you are points not on your face.
Actually you're not supposed to secure to the rub rail.
one tiedown for articles 5 ft or less in length, and 1,100 lbs or less in weight; two tiedowns if the article is -
5 ft or less in length and more than 1,100 lbs in weight; or
greater than 5 ft but less than 10 ft, regardless of weight.
So your securement in this video is wrong again 😮
The video is poorly organized. State the rule and the overall philosophy and then physically show how to do it and do not include the exceptions to the rule. That only adds confusion to the beginner
This was comical....
I agree. Kudos for the effort, but the execution was dismal. "Securement 101" didn't even touch on some of the basics such as determining the rating of the various components of the securement or describing the various types of securement tools. With the laudable reception of the angled strap, nothing was mentioned about common errors to avoid. And much of the information was simply incorrect, like the WLL and hooking to the rub rail. Again, I appreciate the willingness to step out there and creat this video. I don't feel like I could make that a priority for me to do. Unfortunately, it was lacking critical detail and filled with misinformation. I cringe when I read the comments about this being so valuable to the reader.
Jesus Christ!!! Go back to securement school! WLL doubled? Lol!