Acura & Honda EGR Valve Testing and Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- How to test and replace an EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve) for Acura, Honda and most vehicles.
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The EGR valve recirculates exhaust gas through the intake manifod and into the combustion chambers. This reduces oxides of nitrogen emissions (NOx).
P0401 - EGR Insufficient Flow
P0404 - EGR Control Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P0406 - EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P2413 - EGR System Malfunction
Note:
Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.
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THANK YOU! I’ve been searching all over YT for hands-on instruction HOW to test my EGR Valve! Your video showed me how. Thank you again!
We really need men like this that share important car related information to the world. So I need to say thank you sir for providing easy to comprehend instructions that I will be putting to use on my Honda Ridgeline Gen-2 .
This was really easy to understand and really straightforward demonstration. Thank you very much for it 👍
There's a potentiometer actuated by movement of the pintal valve - it's on top of the EGR body. You should've checked it as well - in both valve open & closed positions. The ECM monitors the potentiometer to know when the valve is opened and closed.
(I had a EGR failure because potentiometer was worn out)
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How can we test that potentiometer on top of the egr valve? Will a multimeter do it, an OBDII tool or something else? TIA!
After going blurry eyed watching other videos I was more and more pleased as this one went on, that I understood😀😀. I need to watch again and take notes. Thumbs up and subbed!! The EASY CHANNEL!😁😁
I just bought a 50 euro EGR from autodoc because my peugeot 406 was giving me the P0403 code.
If I had found this video earlier I would have saved 50 euros. Thanks.
Very easy test video I wish I had seen before I wasted money buying and replacing an EGR valve I did not need. I have a multimeter and battery pack. My replaced EGR valve tested just fine with the opening and closing and the ohms reading is 1.6 and 3.6k ohms. I have another issue causing a p1491 / ATM-4 and occasional p0401 alarms.
Did you ever get it figured out?
@@newjordans1 You will not believe this but I reinstall the original EGR valve and my code cleared. I was due an emissions test two days later and I passed after going through a drive cycle. I had cleaned the manifold upper plenum several times reinstalling the 3rd-part Dorman ERG but the code returned.
I even gave up and took the vehicle to the dealer who wanted $900 to "deep clean" the manifold and replace the EGR with an OEM part. I just took a chance and put back the original EGR and things are fine. So my problem was really just the clogged manifold and I introduced the same error code with a new ERG valve that did not work. No more p1491 / ATM-4 alarms and its been good for over a month.
@@daywalker5458 Wow that’s great! I wish I had kept my old EGR valve now lol. I replaced it a couple years ago but shortly after my car passed inspection the codes came back. It ran fine so I just ignored it but now it’s inspection time again. I just cleaned my whole upper intake manifold and plenum and the EGR valve and the codes still come back. Gonna break out the multimeter this week. Wish me luck!
@@newjordans1 I have a 2003 Honda Pilot V6. I cleaned the underside / raceways of the manifold cover spotless. With long stem cotton end Qtips and carb cleaner and shop vac with a tube that fit in the ports, I cleaned out all the ports that the upper cover fit over. I thoroughly cleaned the large passageway the go down the EGR valve as I even ran a thin pipe cleaner brush down the opening.
What was crazy is the original and new bought EGR valves both tested the same as performed in the video above, but the original part worked while the shiny brand new Dorman third-party EGR did not.
Nice explanation. That particular Acura V6 could benefit from a rear main cam seal while you're right there - pretty easy to do!
Cam cap o-rings.
Really? They are easy to do?
The first step it shows in AllData is to do the test with an HDS (Like who owns one of those?). I believe running power to the valve would accomplish the same thing.
The resistance test you did at the end is the next thing it recommends testing.
These tests are nice to do at the u-pull to yard test a used EGR valve. It should work really well.
Be aware that in many cases it's more difficult to clear ALL affected blocked passages besides the "easy ones" associated with the "intake"... In addition, please consider the following... P0401 - EGR Insufficient Flow
* Upper Intake Plenum down thru Coolant Crossover to EGR (square output port) will clog with carbon
* Lower Exhaust Plenum down thru Coolant Crossover to EGR (round input port) will clog with carbon
- Can often work clear using brake, carburetor, throttle body and/or Valvoline EGR cleaner
- Utilize a flexible braided cable like a plumbing snake...
- Utilize shop vac then air compressor to remove all debris
- Entire upper and lower plenum passages must be cleared...
Can be a real PITA, but necessary to actually keep code from recurring...
Wow, this actually fixed my car! The Egr valve was stuck open from a tiny tiny rock (maybe half a mm in diameter). My car stalled in traffic one day and wouldn’t restart! I got it towed and then it would start but if idled terribly, I was afraid to even run it.
This might be my issue. intermittent skipping at idle with cold engine or engine in warm up phase. Then when it's at normal operating temperature, the skip at idle is constant. Raise the idle to 1500 with the gas pedal and it runs smooth cold or at operating temperature. Did you have P1399 ? I don't have any EGR codes. Just P1399
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7what did you end up doing? I had P1399 and my EGR wasn’t clogged at all. My intake was badly but I cleaned all that and still the code came back as well as random misfire code.
@@mushlove6933 I suspect my timing belt may have jumped a tooth. I have to check my cam timing. It's easy enough to do as their is access holes in the upper timing covers. If it's not my cam timing, I'm thinking it could be a partially restricted catalytic converter. Did you try replacing your EGR valve ? I am also wondering if my EGR valve is not actuating correctly or if the pintle valve isn't seating properly.
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 i just tested my egr valve with a power probe and it worked. So im putting it back on just need to get a new gasket. I just completed a full valve adjustment, new oem coils and spark plugs and seals, new intake manifold gaskets.. it still has this issue. I’m suspecting something with the exhaust at this point, may be a clogged cat.
@@mushlove6933 check cam timing too. Meaning the timing belt timing
this is an awesome video. thank you for sharing
Thanks for Posting very Helpful!
Thanks for your tutorial! Very helpful!!!👍👍👍👍👍
👌 Superb, what i was looking for.
Thanks.
In my case, my egr valve is working. But i suspect it's opening too much during idle. I know this because when i start the vehicle, it usually takes awhile before the egr valves opens up. When it does the rpm suddenly drops a lot sometimes till almost stalling and it slowly goes back up. I monitor the intake manifold pressure and i noticed when this happenes the vacuum drops indicating either the egr or iacv opens up excessively. If it was the iacv, the rpm should have gone up, but it loss power and dropped instead, so i believe it was the egr valve. What can cause this?
Hey man I'm also experiencing this same issue. To me it was because of the start up rpm drop that you mentioned. I had a p0401 code when it started happening, so I replaced the EGR valve with one off of Amazon. It didn't fix the issue as it still was doing the low rpm start up. I also replaced my iacv but that couldn't be the issue as it's new. So I think the EGR passages are clogged. I haven't checked but I will be cleaning them and see if that helps.
@@abrahanrincon4569 the evap valve also contributed to rpm drop when load applied.
@@nicholasong2892 I haven't gotten any other codes. You think I should replace that valve?
Thank you so much.
Is there any egr test without removing it?
when doing the Ohms test at the end why did you not check between the middle pin and the LHS one? I'm curious at to why you only tested between the RH pin and middle one and the RH pin and LH pin. Also should you not get a voltage reading on one of the pins in the upper row. My understanding is those 3 pins are the signal/sensor pins and you should get 5V on one of the (signal supply)
What are the symptoms of a bad EGR valve?
Could it be the reason my '08 MDX is throwing an SH-AWD warning light and when I check the power distribution screen it shows there's no power going to the rear wheels.
Great info on this channel. Subscribed!!
If the EGR was faulty; would the computer pickup as an error code or be an engine check light?
Does this EGR valve makes Acura mdx 2010 back axle to stop working?
most educative. regards .thank you
To measure the resistance of any sensor or valve we should put the threads of multimeter between positive and negative ,right?
Are these EGR's also in the 1995 Integra LS? Automatic. Interested in options to help pass smog in CA, emissions just over the limits.
i have continuity on both bottom terminals. If i put 12v to the left it comes on the right. vice versa.
Cool information…. Thank you.
Awesome explanation. No doubt this confirms electrical integrity. How can we confirm if the is an issue with leaks? I did a smoke test and it "failed". Well, that's what I suppose. Is it normal for the egr to allow smoke to leak out with the engine off????
Probably means that it’s stuck open and you probably need a new one
Great video lots of info.
Very good details 😀
I unplugged my egr and it didn't trigger anything. What that's mean
Can we use the resistance to trick the egr valve if we needed to be deleted? Like every other egr valve?
If it's bad valve ornsbad valve sensor or wires are bad would that be cause for not passing smog test and blowing out excess exhaust?
You would fail emissions test and would cause your engine to potentially run rich
it is better to remove the baterry negative when removing any electrical parts? or not? what is the torque spec for hrv hondas?
16 ft lbs (22 Nm)
It’s recommended for precaution purposes, you don’t want to touch something metal on any wires or connectors when battery is connected since it can cause a short
Thx
Hi what about there's no power coming from the engine like my car
I thinknyou need to explain further... Is there no battery or no power to the pins
Looks same as for cylinder
Good
couldn't u use a 9v battery?
It’s made to receive battery voltage(12v)
What if you get 11V? 4:40
Then it might be shorted to battery
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or, or just buy a new EGR Valve and clear all doubts. Not expensive.
no good if the wiring is damaged. you often get P0409, P0405 and P0403 codes which all point to issues in the sensor circuit. Need to rule out wiring before buying new EGR
how about you go buy a new one this video is obviously for people who don’t want to buy a new one 😱
New ones are like $200. Not exactly cheap. I'll try cleaning it for basically nothing first.
@@FPSdoug888 in my experience it's not the mechanical part of the EGR that fails. It's the electric part. On mine (UK Ford Mondeo Duratorq Euro IV) I dismantled 2 that were giving error-codes and found that the small electronic parts inside the cover were burnt-out. Luckily the cover was available as a separate unit and replacing this has cleared the recurring error-codes. I don't know if this would apply to all EGRs but if you can separate the electrical part from the EGR body you may be able to replace it
Awesome video, thank you