Congrats on that choice...Yep, "it never gets old". After a deep winter layoff, the first ride always delivers an ear-to-ear grin! So does each ride after that one...Thanks for subscribing.
A big-bore kit would be over the top...I've done 105 mph with the stock bore/stroke and a HotCams Stage 1 camshaft, 14/48 sprockets and a 130/100-18 rear tire. There likely was more speed available, for my riding no point in finding out...The bike is uncorked (originally a Federal model) with stock exhaust, careful tuning of the original PE Keihin carburetor, stock ignition and precision cylinder head work performed by L.A. Sleeve. I run an iron-chromoly (patented) L.A. Sleeve Company sleeve with an L.A. Piston Company piston (stock bore), quality rings and Cometic gaskets. I'm a happy camper, too!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel The HRC kit makes so much power that a brand new stock clutch can not handle it and just slips , have to install heavy duty springs etc..
I believe it...I'm always conscious of the clutch and can distinguish rear wheel spin from clutch slippage. The clutch has held up but will get an upgrade like you describe during a replacement.
The XRR has made riding the deserts of Kenya a joy. For 10 years we've had them and have yet to need a major service. Valves finally started to need regular adjustment and we found they were out of spec. While we were at it, we swapped out the cam chain. Some small damage to a rocker made me replace it and a cam, but even that may have been overthinking things. The bike is, for me, the very best dual sport bike.
Pleased to know how well your XRs have performed. You got into the engine a bit, a thorough job, so you will get reliable, quality performance from your bike. Thanks for subscribing to the channel. More to come on the XR650R!
Bore and stroke near that of a vintage 327 Corvette V8. (The XR650R bore is only 0.060" less than the 4" 327 bore; the stroke is identical.) 1/8th the cylinders, 1/10th the curb weight (310 pounds with oversized fuel tank and ride ready). I'm making, conservatively, 62 horsepower at the crankshaft with a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft, uncorked and the stock Keihin PE carburetor. The 4-barrel carbureted '62 327 made an advertised 300 horsepower on an engine dynamometer. So, at a bit over 1/5th the horsepower and only 1/10th the curb weight, the XR650R's power-to-weight ratio, as you say, "rips" at five pounds per horsepower! (Even if rear wheel horsepower were only 55, that's still only 5.63636... pounds per horsepower!) 62 peak horsepower plus strong bottom and mid-range power make these thumpers "pull" differently than a high horsepower ADV twin. Yep, this is power to be respected.
This video brought back good memories! I agree with everything said, however, once I got used to pushing the easy button, and a hydraulic clutch, I don't think I could go back.
Understood...A fellow viewer/subscriber commented on the KTM 690R, a high-tech, breezy starter with EFI. One of my riding friends brings his featherweight, plated Beta 390 enduro with electric start and EFI. I'm envious at times but continue to value the "old school", Baja-winning intent for the XR650R's spartan equipment. Alternate universes, though we're all having the same terrific experiences while riding! What are you riding now?
Once you go with "the button" especially for tight trailriding? Its real hard to go back to kicking...............I had a vintage KTM 200 a short while, a 2001 kick only................I didnt want to do it, Im spoiled. Cars got rid of the hand crank in the 1920's or so....................why would I be kick starting a bike?..If Honda added button start and street legal bits to an XR650R it would be a near 400lb bike.
Given the dramatic weight savings on contemporary enduro bikes, there's room for electric starting and EFI. I'm a supporter of both, though it's not an easy conversion for an XR650R. (Agreed that the weight climbs quite a bit with an aftermarket XR650R electric start system, battery, etc.) Starting systems on current enduro bikes are ingeniously light weight and not a burden. CRFs are a good example, though KTM, Beta and others have made this transition as well. On a sidehill start, an electric starter would be welcome!
I enjoy your content. I run an XR650R out of Carson Valley. Mine came with the BD kit, but I replaced the headlight with a standard 7" m/c LED headlight. The brightness and beam-cutoff are much better than the BD headlight with an LED conversion bulb, and I have not needed to upgrade the stock stator. Besides the lights, I've been running a set of Trailmax Mission tires that are a great concession to use on paved roads. Previously, I had Tractionator Rallyz/Desert HT combo that was outstanding offroad, but not practical for any street use other than getting to the trails. Next set, I might try the Tractionator Adventure to split the difference. Another dual-sport mod that you also mentioned: I found the Stage 1 cam is useful to extend the powerband to higher rpm. That lets me gear the bike, which has only a 5-speed, for the trail and still be in the powerband on the highway, whereas the stock cam would be out of breath. The stage 1 compared to the stock cam has the same lift but more overlap. It deletes the auto decomp, but as long as I use the decomp lever, I can start it. With respect to the 650R in general, I installed the better case saver from XR's Only because I'd really hate for a broken chain to bust the case. Another useful add-on has been a Trail-Tech fan. That keeps the bike from overheating when I'm puttering through the rock gardens. Some people use 100% glycol coolant. That is less effective at cooling than 50/50 mix with water, but it has a higher boiling point and can resist boiling over and loss of coolant. I use a 50/50 mix and a 1.6 bar radiator cap. The higher pressure of a 1.6 or 1.7 bar cap will raise the boiling temperature and ward off boil-over loss while allowing the use of water for better heat transfer. My right-side foot peg is solid, but I've read they loosen in the frame and the Precision Concepts peg solves the problem of the single-shear mounted peg. The bike performs well and everything on it is easy to work on, repair, and not very expensive to replace -- it's a dirt bike, compared to street bikes that can be so much more expensive. The seat gets uncomfortable after 2 hours. That might be fixed by a Seat Concepts comfort seat, but I haven't tried it. The buzzing in the grips and foot pegs also gets to me after hours of highway riding, and so does holding the throttle open (I have a TM-40 that has an adjustable but stiff return spring) . Riding off road, none of that matters. The only problem off road is the weight. It's a lot lighter than any other 650. The comparable bikes are the KTM 690 and the Husqvarna 701 both of which feature electric start and fuel-injection, but at a far higher cost than those things alone are worth, and not any less weight. I think you'd have to get down to a 250 to really notice a big difference in weight. But I much prefer to ride my four-stroke 125 on the trails. I just have to trailer it. Yes, the dual-sport can be the best of both worlds, and the worst of both worlds.
I appreciate your details and observations on the XR650R. The lighting improvement with a stock stator is noteworthy. We have similar experiences with the HotCams Stage 1, and the manual compression lever starting routine is easy enough. With 14/48 (stock) gearing, I'm constantly looking for a 6th gear on-highway even with a slightly oversized rear tire. Yes, the wider rpm band helps, it will propel these bikes to any reasonable limit...We're not giving up the crawl pace torque at tip-in and just off idle-very impressive power everywhere...Despite most owners' expectations, I've never overheated, even in Eldorado Canyon crawling, rising up from the Dayton end. Your cooling upgrades and suggestions all make sense when needed...I also have a Seat Concepts seat in mind, there's no way around it, the stock seat is like a brick, most noticeably when seated for longer on-highway rides. Your on- and off-highway experience is familiar, this is a hardcore enduro bike that just happens to eat up highway miles with ease...Yes, you're right about wet weight, while this bike was on the portly side compared to racing enduro and motocross bikes of the era, it's way lighter than any ADV bike and many factory dual sports. Exceptions are plateable, bona fide enduro models like the Beta 390 and 500 or the comparable KTMs...I consciously chose the XR650R after wearing out my wife's patience with the original "Dust to Glory" movie, doing further research and considerable soul searching about my riding venues and habits before singling out this bike. It is the ideal open desert bike, which we both value, yet willing to tackle single track when asked to deliver. For lengthy on-highway riding or the Iron Butt Race, this is not the bike. Your apt description of on-highway vibration and numbness would be overwhelming at some point. (DOT dual-sport, ADV or supermoto tires would help a lot on pavement yet hamper pure enduro or single track riding. I get away with the Michelin DOT dual-sport tires covered at the channel.) For my pick, lack of rider comfort, electric start and "self-tuning" EFI were not a deal breaker. I opted for a Baja 1000, race-winning enduro machine with no regrets...We're fortunate to have the Pine Nut, Virginia and Sweetwater Ranges for riding and filming. Like your lighter trail bike, I have the XR350R for practice and first rides after longer layoffs from the XR650R...Thanks for your subscription and insightful, valued comments. Please share more!
You’ve inspired me with this video to get out riding today! (XR650L) It’s been many years since I’ve owned a big XR, but I finally got a new 650L last year, and I couldn’t be happier. I feel like I’m back home on the legendary big Honda! 🏁🇯🇵
I'm pleased that you found your way back to the remaining Honda XR. You have an excellent bike for a wide range of riding interests. Enjoy the bike! Thanks for the subscription, we'll keep the XRs in the limelight.
Hello. I haven't learned your name yet. I'm Tim. Last December I purcased a 2001 XR650R that, after catching it up on typical maintainance (just about everythig with the exception of removing the engine from the frame) I have been enjoying up here in Michigan. After a small accident on a group trail ride I decided I would like to replace it for something a bit more managealbe such as a 2017-ish KTM 500EXC. However, watching this latest video of yours has caused me to re think my decision. I have a Moto Guzzi V85TT for more ADV/road riding, while, whichiver dual-sport I end up with will be more dirt/tail oriented. Well, anyway, the XR650R certainly is a spectacular motorcycle and thank you for your contributions. Your videos are very entertaining and educational! :-)
Hi, Tim, I'm Moses Ludel...I value your feedback and subscription. Your reasoning around the KTM 500EXC is understandable, and it's a great bike, somewhat different than the open desert design of the XR650R. To you point, my Eldorado Canyon video from 2014 shows the versatility of the XR650R, relying on its balance and stable torque to get through rougher single track. The wheelbase is actually shorter than the newer CRF450 models, which surprises many. Humbling though it may be, the XR650R or my other bikes require a practiced rider. Long layoffs followed by spur of the moment "let's go riding ventures" can get dicey. (Riding regularly, I rode Eldorado Canyon without touching a foot to the ground. After long layoffs, that's not very likely.) Regardless of what dirt bike we're riding, my experience suggests riding often. Stay practiced and in your game. Keep the muscle memories going and paired with whatever bike you're riding. I think of dirt riding as an athletic event or sport, which requires both skill and earned confidence. The confidence factor only comes from riding frequently and within your current skill level. Many now equate motorcycling to a meditation, which works better for light traffic road riding than the continual demands of desert, woods, sand or single track creek bed riding. Yes, being "in the moment" and realistic about your physical condition can help make you "at one" with your dirt bike. Enjoy riding, ride often and keep us posted on your bikes and experiences.
This video inspired me to buy an XR650R which I’ll be picking up in a couple days. I’m going to Super Moto it and it will be my part time highway commuter to work. My XR650L is my main commuter.
You'll be very happy with the performance. This is an exceptional power-to-weight ratio and a bike that, despite being criticized as the Big Red Pig, is actually a lightweight compared to street and ADV bikes in the 650cc class. Congrats!
Gotta love the honest simplicity of the "BRP". Funny thing about TC and ABS, I disable them on my 701 enduro by removing the sensor from the rear wheel, as the are a disaster in the dirt. If I could buy a non ABS/TC version for a few bucks less I most certainly would 😂
I value your comments and have wondered about ABS/TC for enduro riding. Admittedly, I'm old school back to a '69 BSA 441 Victor Special thumper and a string of Honda XRs. I've seen positive comments about ABS when programmed properly. I am more than content with the barebones BRP and no electronics beyond the CDI ignition and stator voltage regulation.
Great review and bike. I subscribed. Love to ride one seems similar to the 2019 KTM 690 I recently bought. Added the under-seat tank and air filter system for 5.1 gallons capacity Wings pipe and tuned for them. Soft bags motor plate bark busters++. Started with mini bikes at 7 to dual sports to road bikes it’s been a 50 year obsession. I live in Ohio but hope to find riders who want to trail ride the west and Baja.
Thanks for subscribing! The 2019 KTM 690 sounds great. The 5.1 gallon fuel tank provides range, EFI stretches those miles, enough for the longer out West rides and Baja! With your riding history, you gave the bike what it needs! The late 690 enjoys a solid reputation and should prove reliable. Keep us posted...
Common phenomenon. I did the recent re-jet on the PE carburetor. The effect is my broader grin when rolling on the throttle. The Honda XR650R must be experienced to be appreciated! Thanks for your subscription and feedback...
Just discovered this channel since I’ve been searching Honda XR information on TH-cam. I’m very interested in setting up a light ADV bike that can handle highway speed as well as still manage to be fun on single track. I have some dirt bike experience and currently have a Suzuki DRZ400s and a triumph thunderbird 1800cc cruiser so I’m not unfamiliar to very heavy bikes or very tall bikes. That being said, I am pretty sold on the idea of a Honda XR650, what is your stance on a XR650R vs XR650L? I would be carrying less than 40 pounds maybe even less than 30 plus myself for multi day trips riding highway to back roads and finding single track trails along the way.
I really like your strategy and expectations!...Of course, I'm unabashedly biased toward the XR650R but also realistic: My first year model (2000) will be a quarter century old next year. Aside from common service items, there are some parts that have become difficult to source, even falling into the "NOS" category. The XR650L, by comparison, is still produced and well supported by Honda. The comparison between the two bikes hits some key notes. Mainly, the XR650L is not liquid cooled nor built with an all-aluminum, race-bred frame structure. It is reminiscent of my air cooled '84 XR350R and '84 XR500R-or an XR600R. The 500R and 600R each have dry sump lubrication, and the XR400R should also be considered for its dry sump lubrication plus an oil-to-air cooler. (The XR400R has quite a following. See the model's video coverage at the channel.) As for the XR650L, the lack of liquid cooling is not a deal breaker nor is the tubular steel frame, which is in step with the earlier XRs. These bikes hold up well under all but the most grueling abuse. For your proposed riding and loads, the XR650L offers electric starting, which many consider the shortcoming of the kickstart-only XR650R. If you're in the used market, there are many XR650L bikes in top condition due to their popularity as a commuter and light trail or dirt two-track bike. Though not a hardcore enduro bike, the XR650L has been coaxed into significant off road performance. As a factory dual-sport, the XR650L does not require a "conversion" to a plate-able dual sport. (Importantly, states like California no longer allow dual-sport conversions.) It really comes down to riding venues, performance expectations and licensing restrictions. We can discuss this further. Keep us posted!
Let's see where your search lands. Here are a few more thoughts...For long highway rides with an XR650R, Seat Concepts and others make upgrade seats to eliminate the "brick", tailbone pounding OEM enduro seat. (Thumper singles with a counterbalance shaft help damp down vibration.) True enduro based dual-sport thumper models are growing in numbers. EFI and electric starting are no longer viewed as a weight or complexity "penalty" and can make starts easy while adapting readily to high altitude conditions. Carburetor jetting is less of an issue for the XR650R or the XR650L than smaller carbureted engines. On that note, I went into detail on how my carbureted bike handles altitude fluctuations in the recent video on re-jetting the XR650R. Kickstarting is not an issue when the engine tune is on. However, electric starting (like the XR650L) would be an obvious advantage on an off-camber sidehill start. Overall, I wholly support your seeking a lighter weight "ADV" or dual-sport motorcycle.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel the R definitely has my interest more than the L. I think the R has more of a cool factor to it. I say I don’t mind kick starting but haven’t kicked over a bike since I was a kid. I’ve seen videos of very well tuned 650R’s being kicked over easily especially when you know how to “prime” the kick starter and make sure you’re at I guess would be top dead center. I’ve seen a few 650r’s for sale. Prices range from around $2500-4500 with no title and not street legal, tagged and titled street legal bikes range from $4500-7800. Next step is going to be researching what it takes to tag a bike with only a bill of sale in South Carolina.
I've done several videos highlighting the kickstart sequence. My XR650R will fire year round with one to two kicks...Thanks for the insight into local pricing on the XR650Rs. You have wonderful riding venues for a dual-sport. Keep us posted on your bike search!
You're doing good! We have 5 of these in the crew. Mine has 72k miles, no open engine. Buddy Joe had 83k needed opening as valves out of adjustment. Intakes known weak that generatation xrs we replace with kibblewhites. Also n my xr280. Get a Ricky stator, radiator fan, and seat concepts, good to go! Many miles Baja, UT,MT,WY,CA,WA, OR and slice of AZ, CO. We use giant loop to carry our crap, puts weight on seat where it belongs. Boryknack cheap suspension mods. Good luck.
Pleased about the high mileage you're getting on these engines. They are real workhorses. Kibblewhite valves make sense, a good investment. L.A. Sleeve did my head work with new intakes. Poor air filtration can wipe intakes out quickly, I bought the bike with pitted intakes and went with the head work and the L.A. Sleeve chromoly/iron liner as opposed to Nikasil. You're living proof that Nikasil works. The Ricky stator is popular for any serious kind of lighting, a fan is good insurance and Seat Concepts is a tailbone saver that I'm overdue to get! I like your giant loop approach for shifting weight to the seat when carrying gear-smart! The factory 6mm stud size screws holding the rugged TCI under-fender brace is not confidence inspiring, nor is the aluminum rear subframe. I keep my cargo weight limit down for that reason. It's a Baja-bred enduro bike, right?
I have a manracks rear fender metal support only. Most drill out the bolt holes and install grade 8. Not sure efficacy of that. A coyote bag fits ok back there for baja runs. I suppose I could get a great basin bag on there if I need. Have to say that seat concepts...well worth the cash🤣😅 so much that I enjoy it on street. I've tried to love the 690. Just can't.
The XR650R is hard to beat, went 70 miles yesterday on gravel washboard, two-track, single track crawling, creek crossings, graded dirt and eventually pavement with sweeping and "S" curves. Enjoyable and seamless.
I enjoyed the video.😁. I was looking into purchasing a used KTM 690, the used market is flooded with them in my area, but then a XR650r came up on Facebook marketplace dirt cheap. I'm in the process of a lot of maintenance and making it street legal.
Pleased that you found an XR650R. It's a deep dive to find a good one. Mine came was low hours, fully intact, with a leaking aftermarket air filtration system that had leaked Texas silt into the upper cylinder. The engine would not start with low compression and needed a top end rebuild. The previous owner agreed to a price adjustment, and I upgraded to an L.A. Sleeve iron-chromoly sleeve (my choice over Nikasil), new piston/rings and precision head work. The bike is fantastic, lots of life in it, worth every cent and my labor...Is a street legal conversion easy at your area? I was fortunate, Nevada recognizes conversions and accepted the highway legal status of the previous title. My bike had been converted at Texas.
A highly capable enduro that was purpose built to win the Baja 1000-and did so for the seven seasons that Honda Racing supported the bike. I like its ability to serve so many roles. A bare bones, reliable XR, the only one with liquid cooling...
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Im parting out an XR650R right now, and it is for sure built almost like a truck in many ways, super stout, some parts weigh 3 times more than a normal dirtbike, Honda went all in on it for sure. This one blew the lower rod bearing and destroyed cases and crank....lotta miles I think.
Honda has always built reliable engines. Even my forty-year-old 1984 XRs (350R and 500R) with air cooling seem to "run forever". The XR650R was undoubtedly the most robust of the no-frills XRs, intended for winning long desert races. Thanks for sharing your findings!
I have an immaculate 2003 xrr which is bone stock other than its polished excel sm wheelset, just passed its m.o.t (uk) and will be on the road next week.
Nice! I'm presuming your XR650R is a factory dual-sport European model. The U.S. market was "off-highway" enduro only. We even had a California versus 49-State emissions standard, and the California models came with unique add-on emissions equipment. Factory carburetor main jetting on all XR650Rs was ridiculously lean. My XR650R was converted by the original owner to a dual-sport with an aftermarket Baja Designs kit (sadly, no longer available). It became eligible for highway legal use at Texas. I live at Nevada, a state that respected the Texas title. (Nevada also permits off-highway motorcycle conversions for highway use.) Our DMV issued a highway-legal title and annual, renewable registration. Many states, beginning with California, no longer allow dual-sport conversions of factory "off-highway" (dirt/enduro) motorcycles. I'm fortunate. You're even more fortunate to have wiring, lighting and other dual-sport equipment installed at the factory. Enjoy that motorcycle and thanks for the subscription!
With that goal, it won't disappoint...There are ADVs with twice the horsepower-and nearly twice the weight. Compare where the ADVs make power, their rpm points for peak torque and horsepower. The XR650R is at home inching through a dry creek bed without stalling or on the throttle across a desert floor or highway. There is, however, the "street legal" consideration for those living at U.S. states without a dual-sport conversion option. Do your homework on that issue and keep us posted!
XRs are the best that's why afterv50yrs of riding I still ride a Xr 650L . And id they would put that button on them and some lights I would have one . RIDE ON
Understood...and you already have a great bike. The XR650L has been a survivor for good reason. Parts availability will not be an issue for many years. Enjoy it!
great video....I have the same bike and just picked it up. What is the blue light from Baja designs? Is the switch control on the left handlebar also from Baja Designs or is it OEM Honda? Thanks!!!
Thanks...Congratulations on your "new" XR650R, I'd like to know how well the bike works for your riding plans...The blue light is the high beam indicator lamp. Yes, the left handlebar controls are part of the Baja Designs kit (not OEM Honda). I bought the bike already converted and street legal, and I believe the kit was from the early 2000s. It has worked well. Unfortunately, Baja Designs stopped producing these conversion kits. All U.S. XR650R models were enduro only (off-highway) and need a kit for licensing in states that still allow dual-sport conversions. Baja Designs offered these kits for several makes and models. There was a newer kit that included a key-lock ignition switch, which could be retrofitted to the earlier kit. My kit uses a NiCad battery pack, which is no longer available from Baja Designs. Baja Designs offered a higher output stator rewind service for the XR650Rs, a service that they have also stopped.
As much as i'd love to have a 690/701 to use the same way i dont know that i could give up my pig to do it. only correction is the "on two wheels" part. they sure like to ride on one a whole lot!
Great and informative video. How is the BRP compared to th KLX650R to ride off road? Always wanted onew, but they are pricey and I don't want another klx650r or TTR600 for that money. I have a KLX650R 1993. It's OK to ride offroad, looks amazing, but feels much older and rigid compared to my former husqvarna 610TE 1993, and even my co-current TTR600 2002. The TTR 600 I have ridden serious mudhole enduro with. It was unexpectedly, though of course nowhere near my Gasgas EC300 2010. my husky 610 felt much like the gasgas in every aspect.
Thanks for the feedback on this video...First off, we do well with a familiar bike. I rode my XR350R and XR500R for years before experiencing the XR650R. I still make the earlier XRs work well for me...The KLX650R was different than the KLR650 in engine features and suspension design. It is a true enduro bike, though a street trim KLX650 with electric start gets close to the weight of a period KLR. Although heftier by desert enduro standards, the KLR650 became a popular cult dual-sport largely for its street legal status and global travel reliability. (Your '93 Husky TE 610 was an enduro legend, even better in later TE 610IE form with EFI and electric start. These are true-to-form, superior Husqvarna enduro bikes, falling within the weight realm of the Honda XR650R kickstart.) To compare a BRP with the KLX650R draws us back to Kawasaki's dominance of the Baja 1000 from 1988-96 with the 3rd Gen and newer liquid cooled KX500-series two-strokes-not the 4-stroke singles. In '97-'98, the air-cooled Honda XR600R edged out these two-strokes, and in 1999 the liquid cooled BRP appeared, dominating Baja until Honda elected to replace the XR650R with the CRF450 bikes...What any of us enjoy is a bike that works. Yes, the KLX650R is somewhat portly like the XR650R, and the most significant edge of the BRP over a '93 KLX650R would be the aluminum frame and larger radiators. Again, this is not always a deal breaker: The Honda XR600R was also tubular steel like your '93 KLX, so was the winning XR500R RFVC and my XR350R, also a RFVC single. I've not ridden a '93 KLX650R to compare and lean on your experience here. (You've owned an excellent string of bikes!) I can share that the XR650R enduro is as much bike as I have ever wanted, its handling and power in the desert, on single track and even on-pavement (as a dual-sport conversion) always impress me. The purpose-built Honda enduro bikes are reliable and predictable, what I like the most for distance riding.
Thanks for the videos feedback!...The racks were from TCI Products, same for the skid plate with engine guards. Well made package, the Borrego is the top platform only with a Nelson-Rigg top bag. Side brackets for my soft Nelson-Rigg bags make up the Sequoia package. (Here are more details from when I installed the racks and soft luggage a decade ago: 4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-nelson-rigg-and-tci-products-for-the-dual-sport-motorcycle/.) TCI Products no longer produces theses racks, although Moose Racing sold them for some time and may still have access or details. Some footnotes to share: Despite the excellent under-fender brace from TCI, I have reduced my overall weight loads to 45 pounds, including the rack(s). The XR650R frame design is not intended for "ADV" type cargo loads. (The factory dual-sport, non-U.S. models did not have a provision for a rear passenger. By design, the XR650R is a competitive, solo seat enduro bike.) The rear subframe on my bike is in fine shape, and I'd like to keep it that way. For summer on- and off-pavement travel and filming, I'm currently carrying light camera gear, survival tools, spare tubes and day snacks/beverages in the top bag only. The Sequoia side racks and bags are on the shelf at the shop.
Did you install a radiator fan or anything for additional cooling? Using this on the street, I have issues with keeping the bike temps down at stop lights for example. I know Trail Tech sells a radiator fan kit (relatively expensive in my opinion) however I'm not sure how to verify that I have a properly upgraded stator or if there are other less expensive and simpler options to install for street use. Thank!
I've not added a fan yet, and some of my single track has been at crawl pace for distances. (See the channel's Eldorado Canyon video. It was fall at altitude and not extremely high ambient temp.) I consciously keep the bike moving and do not park and idle, learned habits from years of air-cooled bikes. In your case, you can't avoid idling in stop-and-go street traffic. I run Honda's premixed coolant with the stock thermostat and radiator cap. (Test your thermostat's opening temp and the radiator cap's release pressure.) Some do change to a lower temp thermostat, which can allow the engine to operate at a cooler set point. I'd stick with the stock cap pressure to prevent over-pressurizing the radiator cores and hoses...My fuel mixtures are never on the lean side. Slightly rich will effectively cool the upper cylinder. Too rich can foul the plug or even fuel-wash the cylinder, which is highly undesirable and can damage the rings and cylinder wall. To compensate for a slightly rich mix, I run a Pulstar spark plug that can fire through this mix...If you do need a cooling fan, the stator's output can be tested whether stock, upgraded or rewound.
You mention Pulstar spark plugs. I can't find a Pulstar part number to replace the NGK DPR8EA-9 for my XR650L. Can you recommend the Pulstar plug PN you use?
I went to the Pulstar site. They have an NGK cross-reference chart. Your DPR8EA-9 crosses over to a Pulstar HE2RT8. To verify this finding or for other NGK cross-overs, go to pulstar.com/pages/shop and click on the link "NGK CROSS-REFERENCE LOOKUP TABLE". I trust this helps...
I have a 2001 XR650R that i have been considering switching to dual sport. I think I missed the window a bit on some of the aftermarket kits, though. I see Tusk is still available, at least. Also, we seem to be neighbors - i live near Virginia City.
The Baja Designs kit was the closest to OEM although the battery pack was Ni-Cad. Tusk uses a lithium battery, and I've read user comments describing the need to adjust the stator output voltage to prevent damaging/overheating the battery pack. (That should be confirmed if you go this route.) It would be great to find a Baja Designs kit, though it would be "used" at this point...Yep, we're nearly neighbors. I know Virginia City well!
@MotorcycleTechandTravel have you been up to the airmail beacon northwest of your airport? I think it shows now in Google maps as Beacon 216. It is a little unusual - not only didn't the tower get scrapped, part of the generator shed is still there, but interestingly, there is no arrow. Typically, there is an arrow, like at Mogul, but no tower or shed.
An interesting beacon, I found it at Google Maps...I haven't been to that area but have ridden to U.S.A. Parkway from south of Fernley. Have ridden Eldorado Canyon (from Dayton) to Sunrise Pass and from Silver Springs to the microwave towers...You have many routes in the Virginia Range, great riding venues. The XR650R is perfect for this area.
Do you have a preferred oil grade and change frequency for this great machine? I am interested to know if you have done an oil analysis on your used oil to find out when it's out of spec?
Interesting question...I've always been an advocate of quality synthetic oils for automotive applications, then had an eye opener when researching for my Harley-Davidson Evolution V-Twin Owner's Bible (Bentley Publishers) in the nineties. Zinc was being phased out of automotive oil products, and Harley-Davidson engines were, at that time, not good candidates for oils that had either a low- or zero-zinc additive package. As a result, rather than draw on my automotive experience, I recommended the H-D motorcycle oils available through the dealerships...This brings me to your question. In the case of the Honda XR650R, I run Honda's recommended Pro Honda GN4 Four-Stroke Motorcycle oil, currently a 10W-40 SJ designated oil. There are many synthetic oils in the motorcycle market, among them great products. There is one particular reason why I run the Honda oil: my XR Hondas have wet-plate clutches. The oil is lubricating the engine, transmission and the multi-plate wet clutch assembly. I get exceptional life out of my motorcycle clutches, stock or otherwise. Part of this is the use of oil that works well with the wet clutch: no plate stick, no slip. The 10W-40 viscosity rating is optimal for year round riding in a four-season climate with desert and mountainous terrain...I change oil warm based on engine use and the time of year, always changing the pleated oil filter and downtube mesh screen. Here, again, I use a Honda filter. The micron filtration meets Honda specifications and assures the right pressure drop across the filter...I do run analysis on my Ram/Cummins diesel engine but not the motorcycles...I trust this is helpful.
Good question, and the answer varies. If the bike sets up in our dry climate (high desert/lower humidity), I'm not as concerned about moisture in the engine's crankcase or valvetrain. The factory intervals for "mileage" assume that you're riding in dual-sport highway mode, so the 600 mile standard is somewhat useful. For off-road use, time is more important than mileage. This applies to 4x4s, UTVs and motorcycles on trails like the Rubicon where you can drive or ride for 12 hours or more and cover only 12 miles. (Following this trip would be time for an oil and filter change.) So, a safe approach is to watch oil coloration, as color does darken over time or with oil stress. One trip under severe stress (highway or off-road) may justify changing the oil, regardless of miles or hours on the oil. Oil color can be seen on a dipstick check. (A heat discolored dipstick is always a red flag.) As I shared, my use of Pro Honda oil eliminates concerns around clutch slip or stickiness. However, a clear sign of broken down oil is when the clutch plates act "sticky" or grab. (Harsh, clunky gear engagement or difficulty finding neutral are sometimes symptoms.) Since I'm using the Honda official oil, changing the oil filter each oil change is a habit. The Honda filters are inexpensive for my XRs, and the XR350R, XR500R, my son's XR400R and the XR650R each use the same, time-honored filter (currently Honda's part number 15410-KF0-315). On the XR650R or my XR500R, I check the down tube strainer/screen at each oil change. (There is another mesh screen inside the right crankcase cover that needs attention during major engine, clutch or crankcase work.) Filters are cheap insurance.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel good info, I set up a oil site tube / oil height indicator, great for monitoring oil colour. I do a 1400km 80-90% off road ride and the oil is absolutely dead after that. On the other hand when I am street commuting (taking it easy) to work daily I change it about every 4000km . That is probably pushing it out a little far?
I'm actually more concerned about the need to change the oil filter more frequently than the 4,000km. Your oil "color test" and site tube are smart! Oil can be tested if you're concerned. 2000km would seem plenty for the oil, even under light commute riding on the street. Honda recommends changing the XR650R's engine oil and the oil filter each 1000km.
Please let us know how you do the electric start conversion. Despite my "easy" kickstart routine, sidehill kickstarting does have its drawbacks! Very interested in the "kit" and electrical work involved in your conversion and how it turns out.
Hey there sir. I recently purchased a mint condition 1996 XR600R with the intention of converting it into a dual sport. I have no idea how to wire anything but am willing to learn as I go. Am I biting off more than I can chew on your opinion, or do you think I’ll be able to figure it out?
I am pleased that you found an XR600R in mint condition, this is a great find and a great bike! Johnny Campbell's XR600R success with the Honda Team at Baja and elsewhere is legend. When I get into the '84 Honda XR500R rebuild/restoration, many of the steps will be helpful and apply to your bike as well. As for a dual-sport conversion, first-off, make sure your state or jurisdiction will allow for a conversion and that you can register and plate the bike. (Before plunging, review the equipment requirements and steps for state licensing.) As for the conversion kit, Baja Designs is unfortunately no longer an option. Tusk offers a kit that many install and use. Before buying this "universal" kit, review the instruction steps and determine the degree of difficulty. The kit itself is relatively easy and straightforward to install; wiring is included and harnessed. Lighting should not be a challenge on your bike. The stock stator output is not designed for auxiliary lighting or heavy loads, especially at low engine speeds. (Many upgrade or replace the XR600R and XR650R stators with a rewind or an aftermarket solution.) Be sure that your lighting is ample, functional and visible. Make sure the turn signals can be easily seen. If you do have questions beyond this, let us know...Enjoy that bike!
You likely did well on that sale, a popular, often prized bike. A CRF450X with EFI and electric start would be a delight after the kickstart with carburetion. I understand your choice. The XR400R, XR500R, XR600R and XR650R will be remembered for their dry sump lubrication, the XR400R for its oil-to-air cooler, and the XR650R for brute power and liquid cooling. The later CRF450X will feel light and spry, you'll like it! I'd like to test a plateable Honda CRF450RL dual-sport and compare it to my converted XR650R.
Thanks for the video, I have one question, I bought my xr650r in 2000 and the horse power announced by the facturer in europe(Portugal) was 61HP. Is there any diference on the stock Bike in both countries?
Importantly, there was no "dual-sport" edition for the U.S. All models sold were for off-highway or enduro use only. Dual sport models weigh more, accordingly...If your European model was "uncorked", meaning that there is no D-shaped restrictor in the intake and the exhaust tailpipe has a larger outlet (HRC-style), your engine would likely match the Federal U.S. bikes (49-State, non-California XR650R/A) with an HRC tailpipe. However, U.S. models had extremely lean carburetor jetting for emissions requirements. California models were restricted even further with extra emission control devices (XR650R/AC). All U.S. XR650R bikes were "detuned" to meet emissions standards, and Honda did not list a horsepower rating for the bikes sold in the U.S. If you have the factory service manual, you will find that European and Australian models each have carburetors with richer jets (175 main; 65 pilot) than U.S. models. These bikes were not restricted for emissions like U.S. models...My bike was originally 49-State with a round intake stream like yours and the HRC-style or 49-State tailpipe. I added a mild HotCams Stage 1 camshaft and re-jetted with jets similar to your bike. (I adjusted for my altitude.) Your horsepower rating is likely at the crankshaft. I'm probably making 62-64 horsepower at the crankshaft and something like 55-plus horsepower at the rear wheel. That's my guess, it would take a dynamometer test to verify rear wheel horsepower...Thanks for subscribing!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Well , i heard about the uncorked version trought all these years but i didn´t realize 'till now' that there was differences in the carburetor jets neither that also was a restrictor in the intake. However, i knew about the spark arrestor for the tail pipe and i thought that was also some extra part on the air filter for the U.S. bikes to restrict the air flow. Back in June of 2000, when i received the call from the dealership that my bike was arrived they only asked me if i wanted the turning signals mounted or not and mouted 2 big review mirrors, plus a spare parts back pack with a spark arrestor tail pipe and some plastic part for the air filter when using the bike on water extreme trails. And then they told me...- Hey, don´t open full throtlle on the first 300 km´s ,ok! For Run-in purposes. Well i think i forgot about it sooner than that... as in ridding back home :)
Your 2000 XR650R model, like mine, has one part that does need changing: the clutch guide bushing (P/N 22116-MBN-670) was updated later with a P/N 22116-MBN-671. Not an expensive part, this update is needed for adequate lubrication when idling the bike at traffic stops or on the trail (or in a creek crossing) with the clutch lever disengaged and in gear. The update part is the current replacement part for 2000-2007 models. If you did not change this guide bushing, you likely treat the bike properly. When you do a clutch plate change or deep clutch service, install this update part. My 2000 model bike was preowned, and I am not sure whether the previous owner replaced this guide bushing. I just ordered a 22116-MBN-671 replacement part. I will keep the part on my parts shelf for when I rebuild the clutch in the future. No sign of trouble, so the bushing may have been replaced earlier.
I love honda XRs. I have an LWP a Honda 1994 XR250L it's white frame, white Plastics, blue number plate, with comfy orange saddle make it for the perfect little white Pig(LWP) Nothing like an air-cooled 250 wet sump XR with reliable RFVC technology to get your blood pumping!
You have a good one, that LWP! There are two '84 model year RFVCs in my stable: a wet sump XR350R and an XR500R dry sump. Enduro fans need to ride an RFVC to appreciate them. The 350 has served without a hitch since the mid-nineties. The 500 came a few years later in need of some restorative work, which will begin after the fall riding season. Your LWP would be a good trail companion for the 350...Enjoy every ride, the RFVCs are still in the game! Thanks for subscribing.
One of the great mysteries in life...why Honda didn't replace the outdated XR650L with a street legal version of the R?? Sure the 650L is heavy but good on the road, pulls like a tractor and I can still ride and turn it around in tight trails or get out of the mud...try that with a 550lb adv bike full of expensive plastic fairing. Hopefully Honda comes to their senses before I'm too old to ride.
The XR650L has great features and factory electrics, including starting and full lighting. To your point, there were Australian and European iterations of the XR650R in street legal dual-sport form (without rear seating), so Honda did have the formula. In a fair comparison, the XR650L reflects legacy engines like the earlier XRs and the XR600R. A tubular steel frame was used on all R models until the XR650R, and Honda won two Baja years (1997-98) with the XR600R. I'm partial to the XR650R, largely for its purpose-built hardcore enduro design; however, many riders enjoy and upgrade the XR650L to tackle reasonably hard trails plus pavement. One distinct advantage you have with your XR650L is parts availability. The XR650R's last year of production was 2007, and that translates to a gradual decline in OEM replacement parts. I'm stocking up!
Agreed...I bought my XR650R from the original owner who had done the Baja Designs dual-sport conversion-which I wanted. I've kept each original part since installing the tank, racks and skid protection. My bikes can easily be returned to "stone stock".
They were available from Baja Designs a decade ago...Not clear where to seek them now that Baja Designs has moved away from the dual-sport conversion kits. The mirrors are solid when adjusted and secured tightly. Let us know whether you find something equivalent.
Fully agree, the XR650R was the pinnacle of the XR series. To your point, the subframe is lighter and not optimal for heavy cargo. I've pared back on rear weight with the lighter TCI Borrego rack and its under-fender brace, using a Nelson-Rigg fabric trunk bag. A maximum 45 pounds, including the rack, brace and cargo, is plenty for the subframe. These enduro bikes were designed to win the Baja 1000 and predate the dramatic market shift to ADV bikes. (Honda's Africa Twin filled that gap, anyway.) Despite the lighter subframe, the street legal Australian and European dual-sport XR650R's earned considerable popularity. Notably, they did not have rear foot pegs, and the brick hard enduro seat was not changed to provide for a rear passenger.
Mate put a Staintune full exsurst system on with the big headers trust me I had one years ago and wished I never sold it never rinden anything that comes close to the endless power left when flying at worp speed
I appreciate your comments...The power has to be experienced. Puts a smile on my face every time I ride the XR650R. Roll-on throttle in the passing lane, thumper torque when snail crawling in a rocky creek bed, the wide power band is amazing! I've thought about a quality header and pipe, though I don't want to give up the bottom end power. Did you lose any bottom end power with the aftermarket head pipes and exhaust system?
Try a 2019 or newer 690R KTM. There is power. Along with 55+ mpg, smooth running at 75MPH, and handles great on dirt. .......that kickstarter on the 650R...................yikes.
The 690R KTM is an exceptional bike, and your feedback and observations are valuable. Weight is a bit higher than the XR650R but still very manageable. (The KTM 690R unfueled weight is 326 pounds, still way under the big ADV bikes.) Trade-offs include EFI, ABS and electric start on the 690R. In the late or new motorcycle market, the 690R enduro is high on my list of prospects. To your point, the range of better years ('19-up) includes the option of a pre-owned bike or a showroom fresh model. They look cool, are a true enduro, get great fuel mileage and the LC4 engine delivers high tech, ultra-strong thumper power as you note-kudos to KTM!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel I just picked up a 21 690R, and while it wasnt cheap, it has a couple K in valuable add ons, and a pile of good stuff came with it....Ive got an 890R which is a great bike, but awfully big on dirt......Ive been out riding with guys on big 4 strokes with only kick start, and they can get very heated trying to restart a hot bike on trail. Easy when cold or maybe warm....can be very tricky when hot....I still have memories of a TT500 I once had.
Water-cooled engines do not have as wide an expansion rate as air-cooled engines. By liquid cooling the cylinder head (especially around the exhaust valve areas) and the cylinder, key components last longer, tolerances can be closer and remain more uniform, ultimately the engine produces better performance. That noted, I've had earlier XRs, air-cooled, that ran exceptionally well for a very long time. I avoid overheating either engine design, as heat is always a concern. Oil-to-air cooling is also very effective, we have an XR400R in the family that runs quite cold in the winter and cooler in the summer! Thanks for asking and thanks for your subscription.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Hey, thanks for the explanation. If I get an air cooled bike, I’ll keep an eye out for one with an oil cooler. My TW200 was air cooled and never had any problems but then, I didn’t push the bike for many hours on end. I can see how water cooling actually becomes important design for longer hours of use. 🙏
Liquid cooling is not a guarantee that the engine won't overheat. Many owners add a radiator fan to liquid cooled engines. Some XR650R owners do this, I haven't yet, but like your TW200, we try to ride without overheating the engine. Air-cooled engines teach us to keep the bike moving in an air stream and not idling for extended periods without moving. Works with liquid cooling, too.
Fully understand, you picked a great bike. A riding friend has a new four-stroke, plated Beta 390, and I am thoroughly impressed! I'm sure your 2-stroke delivers.
Honda followed the success of the Yamaha XT 500 using the dry sump lubrication. They improved the suspension, braking, increased capacity, utilised a counter balancer, and added two more valves to improve performance. Personally, I was partial to the XT, having owned many over a 35-year span. Perhaps I missed out on something, as I currently have a Honda crf250l, which is very comparable, albeit with slightly lower power and torque.
The Yamaha XT500 and TT500 were formidable big bore thumpers! Two-valve singles, they put Yamaha at the forefront of four-stroke racing and enduro riding. Yamaha's cantilever rear shocks were in vogue until Honda popularized the mono-shock with Pro-Link XRs. The Yamaha 500s had a great power curve and strong tip-in to redline pull. Pleased that you shared your impressions of the XT500 with the note about dry sump lubrication...Dry sump is proven. My first exposure was a 1969 BSA 441 Victor Special scrambler/thumper. (My 650 Lightning and Rocket III each had dry sump as well, common on period British bikes.) For those unfamiliar with dry sump, the increased oil supply on the XR500R, XR600R, XR400R and XR650R or L is in the frame down tube below the steering head. The additional oil and another place to dissipate heat helps cool these engines. The XR400R incorporated an oil cooler, which upgrades the system to oil-to-air cooling. Racing automotive and motorcycle engines use a dry sump to avoid windage issues and crankcase oil aeration.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Out of curiosity, did Honda also use the scavenge pump to feed hollow main and counter shafts to lubricate the internal bearings, and have oil jets to lubricate the gear contact surfaces?
Yes, similar to what you describe...Scavenged (pick-up) oil first flows through the frame head and its screen filter then to the oil filter. The filtered oil travels to the engine's lower end and valvetrain. The filtered oil also flows to the hollow transmission main and counter shafts, transmission bearings or bushings, and the orifices that feed oil to the gear bores (bearings/bushings) and teeth. This generous supply of pressurized oil assures lube whenever the engine is running. The degree of filtration and a steady oil flow reduce heat and minimize damage from any debris. Similar to the Yamaha 500?
@MotorcycleTechandTravel The XT uses a small pump to take oil from the down tube after passing a screen. It is then passed through a filter element, which then feeds the crank big end bearing, and valve rockers, and camshaft via an external oil line. The pressure is low due to the fact that there are no plain bearings anywhere in the engine, everything runs on ball bearings or needle rollers. The oil drains down the cam chain tunnel to the crank case, where there is a small sump with a screen. The scavenge pump, which is double the feed pump in size, takes oil post screening to feed the transmission, with the residual returning to the frame backbone reservoir, the reservoir has an overflow back to the engine to maintain ballance.
Very similar with a few nuances. The Honda engine feeds filtered oil to the upper end/valvetrain through passages in the cases, cylinder and head rather than an external tube. Both engines target ultra reliability and the ability to survive under a wide range of operating angles.
I run the current Honda GN4 10W/40 SJ and watch the oil coloration to determine when a change is due. I always change the pleated paper filter, sometimes between oil changes. The Honda guideline for oil changes is each 600 miles for the dual-sport overseas models. This translates to roughly 10-12 hours of off-road riding, or even less time under severe conditions...Clean the down-tube screen each 2,400 miles or maximum 20-24 hours of off-roading, inspect the screen for debris and significant metal. (Install the cleaned screen before adding fresh oil.) The screen near the clutch assembly at the bottom of the crankcase rarely gets checked; I always clean or replace this screen when removing the right side crankcase cover. The official Honda service manual is a must for orienting yourself to the bike's needs, the service intervals and performing each step.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel thank you for the information very informative. I can't wait to get my hands on one. I've been researching these bikes and they are awesome. Super rare also. I will definitely be tuning in to your channel.
If this is the bike that fits your riding plans and uses, it will not disappoint. A tall seat height, kickstart only, and the no frills open desert enduro design reflect the XR650R's purpose-built engineering to win the Baja 1000-which it did consistently! (One of our valued subscribers has been on the podium at the last two Mint 400 races.) The bike's sheer power and precise handling have made the XR650R popular and adaptable for spinoff uses like dual-sport and super-moto riding. Worth noting, this is not my pick for a first time rider. These bikes demand and earn our respect.
Your bike is way more advanced technologically, a contemporary state-of-the-art rally/enduro bike...The XR650R was purpose-built for winning the 1999-2007 Baja 1000, Baja 500, 'Vegas to Reno and the Mint 400 open desert enduro competitions. Spare of technology, carbureted and kick start only, the 37" saddle height is right up there. On long races, competitors largely ride standing on the pegs. On the highway, the stock enduro seat is like a brick. 50-100 miles is time for a coffee, tea or water break! Different bikes and worlds that make us happy...Thanks for subscribing!
It works well...The rear subframe is not designed for hefty hauling but does handle the lighter TCI Borrego rack with its under-fender brace and typically 20-25 pounds of "stuff".
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Proud to say I have 650r supermoto and the feeling you get ripping it never gets old 😁
Congrats on that choice...Yep, "it never gets old". After a deep winter layoff, the first ride always delivers an ear-to-ear grin! So does each ride after that one...Thanks for subscribing.
Had 7 XR 's my 93' 600 was my favorite built to the hilt with the HRC 628 big bore kit 😊 it flew , go way over 100 mph and was still stone reliable
A big-bore kit would be over the top...I've done 105 mph with the stock bore/stroke and a HotCams Stage 1 camshaft, 14/48 sprockets and a 130/100-18 rear tire. There likely was more speed available, for my riding no point in finding out...The bike is uncorked (originally a Federal model) with stock exhaust, careful tuning of the original PE Keihin carburetor, stock ignition and precision cylinder head work performed by L.A. Sleeve. I run an iron-chromoly (patented) L.A. Sleeve Company sleeve with an L.A. Piston Company piston (stock bore), quality rings and Cometic gaskets. I'm a happy camper, too!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel The HRC kit makes so much power that a brand new stock clutch can not handle it and just slips , have to install heavy duty springs etc..
I believe it...I'm always conscious of the clutch and can distinguish rear wheel spin from clutch slippage. The clutch has held up but will get an upgrade like you describe during a replacement.
The XRR has made riding the deserts of Kenya a joy. For 10 years we've had them and have yet to need a major service. Valves finally started to need regular adjustment and we found they were out of spec. While we were at it, we swapped out the cam chain. Some small damage to a rocker made me replace it and a cam, but even that may have been overthinking things. The bike is, for me, the very best dual sport bike.
Pleased to know how well your XRs have performed. You got into the engine a bit, a thorough job, so you will get reliable, quality performance from your bike. Thanks for subscribing to the channel. More to come on the XR650R!
I am a proud owner of a 2001 650R. Its absolutely rips!
I wish they would bring it back!!!
Bore and stroke near that of a vintage 327 Corvette V8. (The XR650R bore is only 0.060" less than the 4" 327 bore; the stroke is identical.) 1/8th the cylinders, 1/10th the curb weight (310 pounds with oversized fuel tank and ride ready). I'm making, conservatively, 62 horsepower at the crankshaft with a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft, uncorked and the stock Keihin PE carburetor. The 4-barrel carbureted '62 327 made an advertised 300 horsepower on an engine dynamometer. So, at a bit over 1/5th the horsepower and only 1/10th the curb weight, the XR650R's power-to-weight ratio, as you say, "rips" at five pounds per horsepower! (Even if rear wheel horsepower were only 55, that's still only 5.63636... pounds per horsepower!) 62 peak horsepower plus strong bottom and mid-range power make these thumpers "pull" differently than a high horsepower ADV twin. Yep, this is power to be respected.
well they bring back the KX 500 this year, probably they will bring back a new red beast !
Great idea!
This video brought back good memories! I agree with everything said, however, once I got used to pushing the easy button, and a hydraulic clutch, I don't think I could go back.
Understood...A fellow viewer/subscriber commented on the KTM 690R, a high-tech, breezy starter with EFI. One of my riding friends brings his featherweight, plated Beta 390 enduro with electric start and EFI. I'm envious at times but continue to value the "old school", Baja-winning intent for the XR650R's spartan equipment. Alternate universes, though we're all having the same terrific experiences while riding! What are you riding now?
Once you go with "the button" especially for tight trailriding? Its real hard to go back to kicking...............I had a vintage KTM 200 a short while, a 2001 kick only................I didnt want to do it, Im spoiled. Cars got rid of the hand crank in the 1920's or so....................why would I be kick starting a bike?..If Honda added button start and street legal bits to an XR650R it would be a near 400lb bike.
Given the dramatic weight savings on contemporary enduro bikes, there's room for electric starting and EFI. I'm a supporter of both, though it's not an easy conversion for an XR650R. (Agreed that the weight climbs quite a bit with an aftermarket XR650R electric start system, battery, etc.) Starting systems on current enduro bikes are ingeniously light weight and not a burden. CRFs are a good example, though KTM, Beta and others have made this transition as well. On a sidehill start, an electric starter would be welcome!
@@bradsanders6954cause when your electric bucks off you can still start it 😅
@MotorcycleTechandTravel but it's awesome. And saves you in a bad situation. How fast do you think you can get an xr650?
I enjoy your content. I run an XR650R out of Carson Valley. Mine came with the BD kit, but I replaced the headlight with a standard 7" m/c LED headlight. The brightness and beam-cutoff are much better than the BD headlight with an LED conversion bulb, and I have not needed to upgrade the stock stator. Besides the lights, I've been running a set of Trailmax Mission tires that are a great concession to use on paved roads. Previously, I had Tractionator Rallyz/Desert HT combo that was outstanding offroad, but not practical for any street use other than getting to the trails. Next set, I might try the Tractionator Adventure to split the difference. Another dual-sport mod that you also mentioned: I found the Stage 1 cam is useful to extend the powerband to higher rpm. That lets me gear the bike, which has only a 5-speed, for the trail and still be in the powerband on the highway, whereas the stock cam would be out of breath. The stage 1 compared to the stock cam has the same lift but more overlap. It deletes the auto decomp, but as long as I use the decomp lever, I can start it.
With respect to the 650R in general, I installed the better case saver from XR's Only because I'd really hate for a broken chain to bust the case. Another useful add-on has been a Trail-Tech fan. That keeps the bike from overheating when I'm puttering through the rock gardens. Some people use 100% glycol coolant. That is less effective at cooling than 50/50 mix with water, but it has a higher boiling point and can resist boiling over and loss of coolant. I use a 50/50 mix and a 1.6 bar radiator cap. The higher pressure of a 1.6 or 1.7 bar cap will raise the boiling temperature and ward off boil-over loss while allowing the use of water for better heat transfer. My right-side foot peg is solid, but I've read they loosen in the frame and the Precision Concepts peg solves the problem of the single-shear mounted peg.
The bike performs well and everything on it is easy to work on, repair, and not very expensive to replace -- it's a dirt bike, compared to street bikes that can be so much more expensive. The seat gets uncomfortable after 2 hours. That might be fixed by a Seat Concepts comfort seat, but I haven't tried it. The buzzing in the grips and foot pegs also gets to me after hours of highway riding, and so does holding the throttle open (I have a TM-40 that has an adjustable but stiff return spring) . Riding off road, none of that matters. The only problem off road is the weight. It's a lot lighter than any other 650. The comparable bikes are the KTM 690 and the Husqvarna 701 both of which feature electric start and fuel-injection, but at a far higher cost than those things alone are worth, and not any less weight. I think you'd have to get down to a 250 to really notice a big difference in weight. But I much prefer to ride my four-stroke 125 on the trails. I just have to trailer it. Yes, the dual-sport can be the best of both worlds, and the worst of both worlds.
I appreciate your details and observations on the XR650R. The lighting improvement with a stock stator is noteworthy. We have similar experiences with the HotCams Stage 1, and the manual compression lever starting routine is easy enough. With 14/48 (stock) gearing, I'm constantly looking for a 6th gear on-highway even with a slightly oversized rear tire. Yes, the wider rpm band helps, it will propel these bikes to any reasonable limit...We're not giving up the crawl pace torque at tip-in and just off idle-very impressive power everywhere...Despite most owners' expectations, I've never overheated, even in Eldorado Canyon crawling, rising up from the Dayton end. Your cooling upgrades and suggestions all make sense when needed...I also have a Seat Concepts seat in mind, there's no way around it, the stock seat is like a brick, most noticeably when seated for longer on-highway rides. Your on- and off-highway experience is familiar, this is a hardcore enduro bike that just happens to eat up highway miles with ease...Yes, you're right about wet weight, while this bike was on the portly side compared to racing enduro and motocross bikes of the era, it's way lighter than any ADV bike and many factory dual sports. Exceptions are plateable, bona fide enduro models like the Beta 390 and 500 or the comparable KTMs...I consciously chose the XR650R after wearing out my wife's patience with the original "Dust to Glory" movie, doing further research and considerable soul searching about my riding venues and habits before singling out this bike. It is the ideal open desert bike, which we both value, yet willing to tackle single track when asked to deliver. For lengthy on-highway riding or the Iron Butt Race, this is not the bike. Your apt description of on-highway vibration and numbness would be overwhelming at some point. (DOT dual-sport, ADV or supermoto tires would help a lot on pavement yet hamper pure enduro or single track riding. I get away with the Michelin DOT dual-sport tires covered at the channel.) For my pick, lack of rider comfort, electric start and "self-tuning" EFI were not a deal breaker. I opted for a Baja 1000, race-winning enduro machine with no regrets...We're fortunate to have the Pine Nut, Virginia and Sweetwater Ranges for riding and filming. Like your lighter trail bike, I have the XR350R for practice and first rides after longer layoffs from the XR650R...Thanks for your subscription and insightful, valued comments. Please share more!
You’ve inspired me with this video to get out riding today! (XR650L) It’s been many years since I’ve owned a big XR, but I finally got a new 650L last year, and I couldn’t be happier. I feel like I’m back home on the legendary big Honda! 🏁🇯🇵
I'm pleased that you found your way back to the remaining Honda XR. You have an excellent bike for a wide range of riding interests. Enjoy the bike! Thanks for the subscription, we'll keep the XRs in the limelight.
Hello. I haven't learned your name yet. I'm Tim. Last December I purcased a 2001 XR650R that, after catching it up on typical maintainance (just about everythig with the exception of removing the engine from the frame) I have been enjoying up here in Michigan. After a small accident on a group trail ride I decided I would like to replace it for something a bit more managealbe such as a 2017-ish KTM 500EXC. However, watching this latest video of yours has caused me to re think my decision. I have a Moto Guzzi V85TT for more ADV/road riding, while, whichiver dual-sport I end up with will be more dirt/tail oriented. Well, anyway, the XR650R certainly is a spectacular motorcycle and thank you for your contributions. Your videos are very entertaining and educational! :-)
Hi, Tim, I'm Moses Ludel...I value your feedback and subscription. Your reasoning around the KTM 500EXC is understandable, and it's a great bike, somewhat different than the open desert design of the XR650R. To you point, my Eldorado Canyon video from 2014 shows the versatility of the XR650R, relying on its balance and stable torque to get through rougher single track. The wheelbase is actually shorter than the newer CRF450 models, which surprises many. Humbling though it may be, the XR650R or my other bikes require a practiced rider. Long layoffs followed by spur of the moment "let's go riding ventures" can get dicey. (Riding regularly, I rode Eldorado Canyon without touching a foot to the ground. After long layoffs, that's not very likely.) Regardless of what dirt bike we're riding, my experience suggests riding often. Stay practiced and in your game. Keep the muscle memories going and paired with whatever bike you're riding. I think of dirt riding as an athletic event or sport, which requires both skill and earned confidence. The confidence factor only comes from riding frequently and within your current skill level. Many now equate motorcycling to a meditation, which works better for light traffic road riding than the continual demands of desert, woods, sand or single track creek bed riding. Yes, being "in the moment" and realistic about your physical condition can help make you "at one" with your dirt bike. Enjoy riding, ride often and keep us posted on your bikes and experiences.
This video inspired me to buy an XR650R which I’ll be picking up in a couple days. I’m going to Super Moto it and it will be my part time highway commuter to work. My XR650L is my main commuter.
You'll be very happy with the performance. This is an exceptional power-to-weight ratio and a bike that, despite being criticized as the Big Red Pig, is actually a lightweight compared to street and ADV bikes in the 650cc class. Congrats!
Gotta love the honest simplicity of the "BRP".
Funny thing about TC and ABS, I disable them on my 701 enduro by removing the sensor from the rear wheel, as the are a disaster in the dirt. If I could buy a non ABS/TC version for a few bucks less I most certainly would 😂
I value your comments and have wondered about ABS/TC for enduro riding. Admittedly, I'm old school back to a '69 BSA 441 Victor Special thumper and a string of Honda XRs. I've seen positive comments about ABS when programmed properly. I am more than content with the barebones BRP and no electronics beyond the CDI ignition and stator voltage regulation.
Greetings,
As always another brilliant detailed video production 🇺🇲🍾🎉🇺🇲
Keep producing more videos about the XR
Thanks, and thanks for your subscription!...My XR650R is a keeper and will get lots of video attention ahead.
Great review and bike. I subscribed. Love to ride one seems similar to the 2019 KTM 690 I recently bought. Added the under-seat tank and air filter system for 5.1 gallons capacity Wings pipe and tuned for them. Soft bags motor plate bark busters++. Started with mini bikes at 7 to dual sports to road bikes it’s been a 50 year obsession. I live in Ohio but hope to find riders who want to trail ride the west and Baja.
Thanks for subscribing! The 2019 KTM 690 sounds great. The 5.1 gallon fuel tank provides range, EFI stretches those miles, enough for the longer out West rides and Baja! With your riding history, you gave the bike what it needs! The late 690 enjoys a solid reputation and should prove reliable. Keep us posted...
Just got home from ripping on my 06xrr . It always makes the adrenaline flow
Common phenomenon. I did the recent re-jet on the PE carburetor. The effect is my broader grin when rolling on the throttle. The Honda XR650R must be experienced to be appreciated! Thanks for your subscription and feedback...
Just discovered this channel since I’ve been searching Honda XR information on TH-cam. I’m very interested in setting up a light ADV bike that can handle highway speed as well as still manage to be fun on single track. I have some dirt bike experience and currently have a Suzuki DRZ400s and a triumph thunderbird 1800cc cruiser so I’m not unfamiliar to very heavy bikes or very tall bikes. That being said, I am pretty sold on the idea of a Honda XR650, what is your stance on a XR650R vs XR650L? I would be carrying less than 40 pounds maybe even less than 30 plus myself for multi day trips riding highway to back roads and finding single track trails along the way.
I really like your strategy and expectations!...Of course, I'm unabashedly biased toward the XR650R but also realistic: My first year model (2000) will be a quarter century old next year. Aside from common service items, there are some parts that have become difficult to source, even falling into the "NOS" category. The XR650L, by comparison, is still produced and well supported by Honda. The comparison between the two bikes hits some key notes. Mainly, the XR650L is not liquid cooled nor built with an all-aluminum, race-bred frame structure. It is reminiscent of my air cooled '84 XR350R and '84 XR500R-or an XR600R. The 500R and 600R each have dry sump lubrication, and the XR400R should also be considered for its dry sump lubrication plus an oil-to-air cooler. (The XR400R has quite a following. See the model's video coverage at the channel.) As for the XR650L, the lack of liquid cooling is not a deal breaker nor is the tubular steel frame, which is in step with the earlier XRs. These bikes hold up well under all but the most grueling abuse. For your proposed riding and loads, the XR650L offers electric starting, which many consider the shortcoming of the kickstart-only XR650R. If you're in the used market, there are many XR650L bikes in top condition due to their popularity as a commuter and light trail or dirt two-track bike. Though not a hardcore enduro bike, the XR650L has been coaxed into significant off road performance. As a factory dual-sport, the XR650L does not require a "conversion" to a plate-able dual sport. (Importantly, states like California no longer allow dual-sport conversions.) It really comes down to riding venues, performance expectations and licensing restrictions. We can discuss this further. Keep us posted!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel thanks for the very detailed reply! Lots to think about, I’ll be looking forward to the future videos.
Let's see where your search lands. Here are a few more thoughts...For long highway rides with an XR650R, Seat Concepts and others make upgrade seats to eliminate the "brick", tailbone pounding OEM enduro seat. (Thumper singles with a counterbalance shaft help damp down vibration.) True enduro based dual-sport thumper models are growing in numbers. EFI and electric starting are no longer viewed as a weight or complexity "penalty" and can make starts easy while adapting readily to high altitude conditions. Carburetor jetting is less of an issue for the XR650R or the XR650L than smaller carbureted engines. On that note, I went into detail on how my carbureted bike handles altitude fluctuations in the recent video on re-jetting the XR650R. Kickstarting is not an issue when the engine tune is on. However, electric starting (like the XR650L) would be an obvious advantage on an off-camber sidehill start. Overall, I wholly support your seeking a lighter weight "ADV" or dual-sport motorcycle.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel the R definitely has my interest more than the L. I think the R has more of a cool factor to it. I say I don’t mind kick starting but haven’t kicked over a bike since I was a kid. I’ve seen videos of very well tuned 650R’s being kicked over easily especially when you know how to “prime” the kick starter and make sure you’re at I guess would be top dead center. I’ve seen a few 650r’s for sale. Prices range from around $2500-4500 with no title and not street legal, tagged and titled street legal bikes range from $4500-7800. Next step is going to be researching what it takes to tag a bike with only a bill of sale in South Carolina.
I've done several videos highlighting the kickstart sequence. My XR650R will fire year round with one to two kicks...Thanks for the insight into local pricing on the XR650Rs. You have wonderful riding venues for a dual-sport. Keep us posted on your bike search!
You're doing good! We have 5 of these in the crew. Mine has 72k miles, no open engine. Buddy Joe had 83k needed opening as valves out of adjustment. Intakes known weak that generatation xrs we replace with kibblewhites. Also n my xr280.
Get a Ricky stator, radiator fan, and seat concepts, good to go! Many miles Baja, UT,MT,WY,CA,WA, OR and slice of AZ, CO. We use giant loop to carry our crap, puts weight on seat where it belongs. Boryknack cheap suspension mods. Good luck.
Pleased about the high mileage you're getting on these engines. They are real workhorses. Kibblewhite valves make sense, a good investment. L.A. Sleeve did my head work with new intakes. Poor air filtration can wipe intakes out quickly, I bought the bike with pitted intakes and went with the head work and the L.A. Sleeve chromoly/iron liner as opposed to Nikasil. You're living proof that Nikasil works. The Ricky stator is popular for any serious kind of lighting, a fan is good insurance and Seat Concepts is a tailbone saver that I'm overdue to get! I like your giant loop approach for shifting weight to the seat when carrying gear-smart! The factory 6mm stud size screws holding the rugged TCI under-fender brace is not confidence inspiring, nor is the aluminum rear subframe. I keep my cargo weight limit down for that reason. It's a Baja-bred enduro bike, right?
I have a manracks rear fender metal support only. Most drill out the bolt holes and install grade 8. Not sure efficacy of that. A coyote bag fits ok back there for baja runs. I suppose I could get a great basin bag on there if I need. Have to say that seat concepts...well worth the cash🤣😅 so much that I enjoy it on street. I've tried to love the 690. Just can't.
The XR650R is hard to beat, went 70 miles yesterday on gravel washboard, two-track, single track crawling, creek crossings, graded dirt and eventually pavement with sweeping and "S" curves. Enjoyable and seamless.
Hell yeah, man. That's an awesome bike. Love the 650R
Thanks, and thanks for your subscription! I totally agree...The XR650R has to be ridden to appreciate it!
Raced my BRP last two years in the Mint 400. Trophies both times :)
Congratulations on a job well done, a testimony to your riding skill! Great bike to do it, the XR650R can't be beat...Thanks for subscribing!
I enjoyed the video.😁. I was looking into purchasing a used KTM 690, the used market is flooded with them in my area, but then a XR650r came up on Facebook marketplace dirt cheap. I'm in the process of a lot of maintenance and making it street legal.
Pleased that you found an XR650R. It's a deep dive to find a good one. Mine came was low hours, fully intact, with a leaking aftermarket air filtration system that had leaked Texas silt into the upper cylinder. The engine would not start with low compression and needed a top end rebuild. The previous owner agreed to a price adjustment, and I upgraded to an L.A. Sleeve iron-chromoly sleeve (my choice over Nikasil), new piston/rings and precision head work. The bike is fantastic, lots of life in it, worth every cent and my labor...Is a street legal conversion easy at your area? I was fortunate, Nevada recognizes conversions and accepted the highway legal status of the previous title. My bike had been converted at Texas.
Great video I have a 650R. Best bike honda ever made
A highly capable enduro that was purpose built to win the Baja 1000-and did so for the seven seasons that Honda Racing supported the bike. I like its ability to serve so many roles. A bare bones, reliable XR, the only one with liquid cooling...
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Im parting out an XR650R right now, and it is for sure built almost like a truck in many ways, super stout, some parts weigh 3 times more than a normal dirtbike, Honda went all in on it for sure. This one blew the lower rod bearing and destroyed cases and crank....lotta miles I think.
Honda has always built reliable engines. Even my forty-year-old 1984 XRs (350R and 500R) with air cooling seem to "run forever". The XR650R was undoubtedly the most robust of the no-frills XRs, intended for winning long desert races. Thanks for sharing your findings!
I have an immaculate 2003 xrr which is bone stock other than its polished excel sm wheelset, just passed its m.o.t (uk) and will be on the road next week.
Nice! I'm presuming your XR650R is a factory dual-sport European model. The U.S. market was "off-highway" enduro only. We even had a California versus 49-State emissions standard, and the California models came with unique add-on emissions equipment. Factory carburetor main jetting on all XR650Rs was ridiculously lean. My XR650R was converted by the original owner to a dual-sport with an aftermarket Baja Designs kit (sadly, no longer available). It became eligible for highway legal use at Texas. I live at Nevada, a state that respected the Texas title. (Nevada also permits off-highway motorcycle conversions for highway use.) Our DMV issued a highway-legal title and annual, renewable registration. Many states, beginning with California, no longer allow dual-sport conversions of factory "off-highway" (dirt/enduro) motorcycles. I'm fortunate. You're even more fortunate to have wiring, lighting and other dual-sport equipment installed at the factory. Enjoy that motorcycle and thanks for the subscription!
I need this in my life. Been waiting anting to build a 650r into a adv weapon.
With that goal, it won't disappoint...There are ADVs with twice the horsepower-and nearly twice the weight. Compare where the ADVs make power, their rpm points for peak torque and horsepower. The XR650R is at home inching through a dry creek bed without stalling or on the throttle across a desert floor or highway. There is, however, the "street legal" consideration for those living at U.S. states without a dual-sport conversion option. Do your homework on that issue and keep us posted!
XRs are the best that's why afterv50yrs of riding I still ride a Xr 650L . And id they would put that button on them and some lights I would have one . RIDE ON
Understood...and you already have a great bike. The XR650L has been a survivor for good reason. Parts availability will not be an issue for many years. Enjoy it!
great video....I have the same bike and just picked it up. What is the blue light from Baja designs? Is the switch control on the left handlebar also from Baja Designs or is it OEM Honda? Thanks!!!
Thanks...Congratulations on your "new" XR650R, I'd like to know how well the bike works for your riding plans...The blue light is the high beam indicator lamp. Yes, the left handlebar controls are part of the Baja Designs kit (not OEM Honda). I bought the bike already converted and street legal, and I believe the kit was from the early 2000s. It has worked well. Unfortunately, Baja Designs stopped producing these conversion kits. All U.S. XR650R models were enduro only (off-highway) and need a kit for licensing in states that still allow dual-sport conversions. Baja Designs offered these kits for several makes and models. There was a newer kit that included a key-lock ignition switch, which could be retrofitted to the earlier kit. My kit uses a NiCad battery pack, which is no longer available from Baja Designs. Baja Designs offered a higher output stator rewind service for the XR650Rs, a service that they have also stopped.
As much as i'd love to have a 690/701 to use the same way i dont know that i could give up my pig to do it.
only correction is the "on two wheels" part. they sure like to ride on one a whole lot!
Yep, we see a lot of wheel standing with BRPs! The 6.3-gallon fuel tank lowers the temptation some.
Great and informative video. How is the BRP compared to th KLX650R to ride off road?
Always wanted onew, but they are pricey and I don't want another klx650r or TTR600 for that money. I have a KLX650R 1993. It's OK to ride offroad, looks amazing, but feels much older and rigid compared to my former husqvarna 610TE 1993, and even my co-current TTR600 2002.
The TTR 600 I have ridden serious mudhole enduro with. It was unexpectedly, though of course nowhere near my Gasgas EC300 2010. my husky 610 felt much like the gasgas in every aspect.
Thanks for the feedback on this video...First off, we do well with a familiar bike. I rode my XR350R and XR500R for years before experiencing the XR650R. I still make the earlier XRs work well for me...The KLX650R was different than the KLR650 in engine features and suspension design. It is a true enduro bike, though a street trim KLX650 with electric start gets close to the weight of a period KLR. Although heftier by desert enduro standards, the KLR650 became a popular cult dual-sport largely for its street legal status and global travel reliability. (Your '93 Husky TE 610 was an enduro legend, even better in later TE 610IE form with EFI and electric start. These are true-to-form, superior Husqvarna enduro bikes, falling within the weight realm of the Honda XR650R kickstart.) To compare a BRP with the KLX650R draws us back to Kawasaki's dominance of the Baja 1000 from 1988-96 with the 3rd Gen and newer liquid cooled KX500-series two-strokes-not the 4-stroke singles. In '97-'98, the air-cooled Honda XR600R edged out these two-strokes, and in 1999 the liquid cooled BRP appeared, dominating Baja until Honda elected to replace the XR650R with the CRF450 bikes...What any of us enjoy is a bike that works. Yes, the KLX650R is somewhat portly like the XR650R, and the most significant edge of the BRP over a '93 KLX650R would be the aluminum frame and larger radiators. Again, this is not always a deal breaker: The Honda XR600R was also tubular steel like your '93 KLX, so was the winning XR500R RFVC and my XR350R, also a RFVC single. I've not ridden a '93 KLX650R to compare and lean on your experience here. (You've owned an excellent string of bikes!) I can share that the XR650R enduro is as much bike as I have ever wanted, its handling and power in the desert, on single track and even on-pavement (as a dual-sport conversion) always impress me. The purpose-built Honda enduro bikes are reliable and predictable, what I like the most for distance riding.
hey
what brand of rack do you have on your bike?
i need one for my BRP.
love your videos.thanks.
Thanks for the videos feedback!...The racks were from TCI Products, same for the skid plate with engine guards. Well made package, the Borrego is the top platform only with a Nelson-Rigg top bag. Side brackets for my soft Nelson-Rigg bags make up the Sequoia package. (Here are more details from when I installed the racks and soft luggage a decade ago: 4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-nelson-rigg-and-tci-products-for-the-dual-sport-motorcycle/.) TCI Products no longer produces theses racks, although Moose Racing sold them for some time and may still have access or details. Some footnotes to share: Despite the excellent under-fender brace from TCI, I have reduced my overall weight loads to 45 pounds, including the rack(s). The XR650R frame design is not intended for "ADV" type cargo loads. (The factory dual-sport, non-U.S. models did not have a provision for a rear passenger. By design, the XR650R is a competitive, solo seat enduro bike.) The rear subframe on my bike is in fine shape, and I'd like to keep it that way. For summer on- and off-pavement travel and filming, I'm currently carrying light camera gear, survival tools, spare tubes and day snacks/beverages in the top bag only. The Sequoia side racks and bags are on the shelf at the shop.
Love this bike
Me, too!
Did you install a radiator fan or anything for additional cooling? Using this on the street, I have issues with keeping the bike temps down at stop lights for example. I know Trail Tech sells a radiator fan kit (relatively expensive in my opinion) however I'm not sure how to verify that I have a properly upgraded stator or if there are other less expensive and simpler options to install for street use. Thank!
I've not added a fan yet, and some of my single track has been at crawl pace for distances. (See the channel's Eldorado Canyon video. It was fall at altitude and not extremely high ambient temp.) I consciously keep the bike moving and do not park and idle, learned habits from years of air-cooled bikes. In your case, you can't avoid idling in stop-and-go street traffic. I run Honda's premixed coolant with the stock thermostat and radiator cap. (Test your thermostat's opening temp and the radiator cap's release pressure.) Some do change to a lower temp thermostat, which can allow the engine to operate at a cooler set point. I'd stick with the stock cap pressure to prevent over-pressurizing the radiator cores and hoses...My fuel mixtures are never on the lean side. Slightly rich will effectively cool the upper cylinder. Too rich can foul the plug or even fuel-wash the cylinder, which is highly undesirable and can damage the rings and cylinder wall. To compensate for a slightly rich mix, I run a Pulstar spark plug that can fire through this mix...If you do need a cooling fan, the stator's output can be tested whether stock, upgraded or rewound.
You mention Pulstar spark plugs. I can't find a Pulstar part number to replace the NGK DPR8EA-9 for my XR650L. Can you recommend the Pulstar plug PN you use?
I went to the Pulstar site. They have an NGK cross-reference chart. Your DPR8EA-9 crosses over to a Pulstar HE2RT8. To verify this finding or for other NGK cross-overs, go to pulstar.com/pages/shop and click on the link "NGK CROSS-REFERENCE LOOKUP TABLE". I trust this helps...
I have a 2001 XR650R that i have been considering switching to dual sport. I think I missed the window a bit on some of the aftermarket kits, though. I see Tusk is still available, at least. Also, we seem to be neighbors - i live near Virginia City.
The Baja Designs kit was the closest to OEM although the battery pack was Ni-Cad. Tusk uses a lithium battery, and I've read user comments describing the need to adjust the stator output voltage to prevent damaging/overheating the battery pack. (That should be confirmed if you go this route.) It would be great to find a Baja Designs kit, though it would be "used" at this point...Yep, we're nearly neighbors. I know Virginia City well!
@MotorcycleTechandTravel have you been up to the airmail beacon northwest of your airport? I think it shows now in Google maps as Beacon 216. It is a little unusual - not only didn't the tower get scrapped, part of the generator shed is still there, but interestingly, there is no arrow. Typically, there is an arrow, like at Mogul, but no tower or shed.
An interesting beacon, I found it at Google Maps...I haven't been to that area but have ridden to U.S.A. Parkway from south of Fernley. Have ridden Eldorado Canyon (from Dayton) to Sunrise Pass and from Silver Springs to the microwave towers...You have many routes in the Virginia Range, great riding venues. The XR650R is perfect for this area.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel I haven't been riding the XR at all recently due to family medical issues.
I trust your family will enjoy good health soon...Take care!
Great video. Thank u. Love my BRP
I value your feedback and subscription, thanks! Loving a BRP is not difficult at all...
Great video 👍
Thanks, and thanks for your subscriptions!
Do you have a preferred oil grade and change frequency for this great machine? I am interested to know if you have done an oil analysis on your used oil to find out when it's out of spec?
Interesting question...I've always been an advocate of quality synthetic oils for automotive applications, then had an eye opener when researching for my Harley-Davidson Evolution V-Twin Owner's Bible (Bentley Publishers) in the nineties. Zinc was being phased out of automotive oil products, and Harley-Davidson engines were, at that time, not good candidates for oils that had either a low- or zero-zinc additive package. As a result, rather than draw on my automotive experience, I recommended the H-D motorcycle oils available through the dealerships...This brings me to your question. In the case of the Honda XR650R, I run Honda's recommended Pro Honda GN4 Four-Stroke Motorcycle oil, currently a 10W-40 SJ designated oil. There are many synthetic oils in the motorcycle market, among them great products. There is one particular reason why I run the Honda oil: my XR Hondas have wet-plate clutches. The oil is lubricating the engine, transmission and the multi-plate wet clutch assembly. I get exceptional life out of my motorcycle clutches, stock or otherwise. Part of this is the use of oil that works well with the wet clutch: no plate stick, no slip. The 10W-40 viscosity rating is optimal for year round riding in a four-season climate with desert and mountainous terrain...I change oil warm based on engine use and the time of year, always changing the pleated oil filter and downtube mesh screen. Here, again, I use a Honda filter. The micron filtration meets Honda specifications and assures the right pressure drop across the filter...I do run analysis on my Ram/Cummins diesel engine but not the motorcycles...I trust this is helpful.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravelyes any information is helpful. How many miles do you do on your 650R before an oil change?
Good question, and the answer varies. If the bike sets up in our dry climate (high desert/lower humidity), I'm not as concerned about moisture in the engine's crankcase or valvetrain. The factory intervals for "mileage" assume that you're riding in dual-sport highway mode, so the 600 mile standard is somewhat useful. For off-road use, time is more important than mileage. This applies to 4x4s, UTVs and motorcycles on trails like the Rubicon where you can drive or ride for 12 hours or more and cover only 12 miles. (Following this trip would be time for an oil and filter change.) So, a safe approach is to watch oil coloration, as color does darken over time or with oil stress. One trip under severe stress (highway or off-road) may justify changing the oil, regardless of miles or hours on the oil. Oil color can be seen on a dipstick check. (A heat discolored dipstick is always a red flag.) As I shared, my use of Pro Honda oil eliminates concerns around clutch slip or stickiness. However, a clear sign of broken down oil is when the clutch plates act "sticky" or grab. (Harsh, clunky gear engagement or difficulty finding neutral are sometimes symptoms.) Since I'm using the Honda official oil, changing the oil filter each oil change is a habit. The Honda filters are inexpensive for my XRs, and the XR350R, XR500R, my son's XR400R and the XR650R each use the same, time-honored filter (currently Honda's part number 15410-KF0-315). On the XR650R or my XR500R, I check the down tube strainer/screen at each oil change. (There is another mesh screen inside the right crankcase cover that needs attention during major engine, clutch or crankcase work.) Filters are cheap insurance.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel good info, I set up a oil site tube / oil height indicator, great for monitoring oil colour. I do a 1400km 80-90% off road ride and the oil is absolutely dead after that. On the other hand when I am street commuting (taking it easy) to work daily I change it about every 4000km . That is probably pushing it out a little far?
I'm actually more concerned about the need to change the oil filter more frequently than the 4,000km. Your oil "color test" and site tube are smart! Oil can be tested if you're concerned. 2000km would seem plenty for the oil, even under light commute riding on the street. Honda recommends changing the XR650R's engine oil and the oil filter each 1000km.
Have owned three xr650r and still own two. Best all around light adv ever. Next up is to add electric start.
Please let us know how you do the electric start conversion. Despite my "easy" kickstart routine, sidehill kickstarting does have its drawbacks! Very interested in the "kit" and electrical work involved in your conversion and how it turns out.
Hey there sir. I recently purchased a mint condition 1996 XR600R with the intention of converting it into a dual sport. I have no idea how to wire anything but am willing to learn as I go. Am I biting off more than I can chew on your opinion, or do you think I’ll be able to figure it out?
I am pleased that you found an XR600R in mint condition, this is a great find and a great bike! Johnny Campbell's XR600R success with the Honda Team at Baja and elsewhere is legend. When I get into the '84 Honda XR500R rebuild/restoration, many of the steps will be helpful and apply to your bike as well. As for a dual-sport conversion, first-off, make sure your state or jurisdiction will allow for a conversion and that you can register and plate the bike. (Before plunging, review the equipment requirements and steps for state licensing.) As for the conversion kit, Baja Designs is unfortunately no longer an option. Tusk offers a kit that many install and use. Before buying this "universal" kit, review the instruction steps and determine the degree of difficulty. The kit itself is relatively easy and straightforward to install; wiring is included and harnessed. Lighting should not be a challenge on your bike. The stock stator output is not designed for auxiliary lighting or heavy loads, especially at low engine speeds. (Many upgrade or replace the XR600R and XR650R stators with a rewind or an aftermarket solution.) Be sure that your lighting is ample, functional and visible. Make sure the turn signals can be easily seen. If you do have questions beyond this, let us know...Enjoy that bike!
My dad has one and it is great
Definitely an extraordinary bike...Versatile and dependable, too!
I sold my 2001 XR400R, it's time to upgrade to a new newer CRF450X.
You likely did well on that sale, a popular, often prized bike. A CRF450X with EFI and electric start would be a delight after the kickstart with carburetion. I understand your choice. The XR400R, XR500R, XR600R and XR650R will be remembered for their dry sump lubrication, the XR400R for its oil-to-air cooler, and the XR650R for brute power and liquid cooling. The later CRF450X will feel light and spry, you'll like it! I'd like to test a plateable Honda CRF450RL dual-sport and compare it to my converted XR650R.
Thanks for the video, I have one question, I bought my xr650r in 2000 and the horse power announced by the facturer in europe(Portugal) was 61HP. Is there any diference on the stock Bike in both countries?
Importantly, there was no "dual-sport" edition for the U.S. All models sold were for off-highway or enduro use only.
Dual sport models weigh more, accordingly...If your European model was "uncorked", meaning that there is no D-shaped restrictor in the intake and the exhaust tailpipe has a larger outlet (HRC-style), your engine would likely match the Federal U.S. bikes (49-State, non-California XR650R/A) with an HRC tailpipe. However, U.S. models had extremely lean carburetor jetting for emissions requirements. California models were restricted even further with extra emission control devices (XR650R/AC). All U.S. XR650R bikes were "detuned" to meet emissions standards, and Honda did not list a horsepower rating for the bikes sold in the U.S. If you have the factory service manual, you will find that European and Australian models each have carburetors with richer jets (175 main; 65 pilot) than U.S. models. These bikes were not restricted for emissions like U.S. models...My bike was originally 49-State with a round intake stream like yours and the HRC-style or 49-State tailpipe. I added a mild HotCams Stage 1 camshaft and re-jetted with jets similar to your bike. (I adjusted for my altitude.) Your horsepower rating is likely at the crankshaft. I'm probably making 62-64 horsepower at the crankshaft and something like 55-plus horsepower at the rear wheel. That's my guess, it would take a dynamometer test to verify rear wheel horsepower...Thanks for subscribing!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel
Well , i heard about the uncorked version trought all these years but i didn´t realize 'till now' that there was differences in the carburetor jets neither that also was a restrictor in the intake. However, i knew about the spark arrestor for the tail pipe and i thought that was also some extra part on the air filter for the U.S. bikes to restrict the air flow. Back in June of 2000, when i received the call from the dealership that my bike was arrived they only asked me if i wanted the turning signals mounted or not and mouted 2 big review mirrors, plus a spare parts back pack with a spark arrestor tail pipe and some plastic part for the air filter when using the bike on water extreme trails. And then they told me...- Hey, don´t open full throtlle on the first 300 km´s ,ok! For Run-in purposes. Well i think i forgot about it sooner than that... as in ridding back home :)
Your 2000 XR650R model, like mine, has one part that does need changing: the clutch guide bushing (P/N 22116-MBN-670) was updated later with a P/N 22116-MBN-671. Not an expensive part, this update is needed for adequate lubrication when idling the bike at traffic stops or on the trail (or in a creek crossing) with the clutch lever disengaged and in gear. The update part is the current replacement part for 2000-2007 models. If you did not change this guide bushing, you likely treat the bike properly. When you do a clutch plate change or deep clutch service, install this update part. My 2000 model bike was preowned, and I am not sure whether the previous owner replaced this guide bushing. I just ordered a 22116-MBN-671 replacement part. I will keep the part on my parts shelf for when I rebuild the clutch in the future. No sign of trouble, so the bushing may have been replaced earlier.
I love honda XRs.
I have an LWP
a Honda 1994 XR250L
it's white frame, white Plastics, blue number plate, with comfy orange saddle make it for the perfect
little white Pig(LWP)
Nothing like an air-cooled 250 wet sump XR with reliable RFVC technology to get your blood pumping!
You have a good one, that LWP! There are two '84 model year RFVCs in my stable: a wet sump XR350R and an XR500R dry sump. Enduro fans need to ride an RFVC to appreciate them. The 350 has served without a hitch since the mid-nineties. The 500 came a few years later in need of some restorative work, which will begin after the fall riding season. Your LWP would be a good trail companion for the 350...Enjoy every ride, the RFVCs are still in the game! Thanks for subscribing.
One of the great mysteries in life...why Honda didn't replace the outdated XR650L with a street legal version of the R?? Sure the 650L is heavy but good on the road, pulls like a tractor and I can still ride and turn it around in tight trails or get out of the mud...try that with a 550lb adv bike full of expensive plastic fairing. Hopefully Honda comes to their senses before I'm too old to ride.
The XR650L has great features and factory electrics, including starting and full lighting. To your point, there were Australian and European iterations of the XR650R in street legal dual-sport form (without rear seating), so Honda did have the formula. In a fair comparison, the XR650L reflects legacy engines like the earlier XRs and the XR600R. A tubular steel frame was used on all R models until the XR650R, and Honda won two Baja years (1997-98) with the XR600R. I'm partial to the XR650R, largely for its purpose-built hardcore enduro design; however, many riders enjoy and upgrade the XR650L to tackle reasonably hard trails plus pavement. One distinct advantage you have with your XR650L is parts availability. The XR650R's last year of production was 2007, and that translates to a gradual decline in OEM replacement parts. I'm stocking up!
If they’ve never been messed with,you can’t beet them
Agreed...I bought my XR650R from the original owner who had done the Baja Designs dual-sport conversion-which I wanted. I've kept each original part since installing the tank, racks and skid protection. My bikes can easily be returned to "stone stock".
What mirrors are you running on that build?
They were available from Baja Designs a decade ago...Not clear where to seek them now that Baja Designs has moved away from the dual-sport conversion kits. The mirrors are solid when adjusted and secured tightly. Let us know whether you find something equivalent.
It is the best bike ever, just needs a steal sub frame . I had 3, now a bmw trophy.
Fully agree, the XR650R was the pinnacle of the XR series. To your point, the subframe is lighter and not optimal for heavy cargo. I've pared back on rear weight with the lighter TCI Borrego rack and its under-fender brace, using a Nelson-Rigg fabric trunk bag. A maximum 45 pounds, including the rack, brace and cargo, is plenty for the subframe. These enduro bikes were designed to win the Baja 1000 and predate the dramatic market shift to ADV bikes. (Honda's Africa Twin filled that gap, anyway.) Despite the lighter subframe, the street legal Australian and European dual-sport XR650R's earned considerable popularity. Notably, they did not have rear foot pegs, and the brick hard enduro seat was not changed to provide for a rear passenger.
Mate put a Staintune full exsurst system on with the big headers trust me I had one years ago and wished I never sold it never rinden anything that comes close to the endless power left when flying at worp speed
I appreciate your comments...The power has to be experienced. Puts a smile on my face every time I ride the XR650R. Roll-on throttle in the passing lane, thumper torque when snail crawling in a rocky creek bed, the wide power band is amazing! I've thought about a quality header and pipe, though I don't want to give up the bottom end power. Did you lose any bottom end power with the aftermarket head pipes and exhaust system?
Try a 2019 or newer 690R KTM. There is power. Along with 55+ mpg, smooth running at 75MPH, and handles great on dirt. .......that kickstarter on the 650R...................yikes.
The 690R KTM is an exceptional bike, and your feedback and observations are valuable. Weight is a bit higher than the XR650R but still very manageable. (The KTM 690R unfueled weight is 326 pounds, still way under the big ADV bikes.) Trade-offs include EFI, ABS and electric start on the 690R. In the late or new motorcycle market, the 690R enduro is high on my list of prospects. To your point, the range of better years ('19-up) includes the option of a pre-owned bike or a showroom fresh model. They look cool, are a true enduro, get great fuel mileage and the LC4 engine delivers high tech, ultra-strong thumper power as you note-kudos to KTM!
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel I just picked up a 21 690R, and while it wasnt cheap, it has a couple K in valuable add ons, and a pile of good stuff came with it....Ive got an 890R which is a great bike, but awfully big on dirt......Ive been out riding with guys on big 4 strokes with only kick start, and they can get very heated trying to restart a hot bike on trail. Easy when cold or maybe warm....can be very tricky when hot....I still have memories of a TT500 I once had.
@bradsanders6954 can kick over xr650r with out shoes on first kick
How is a water cooled xr650r supposed to be better? I don’t race, I want reliability.
Water-cooled engines do not have as wide an expansion rate as air-cooled engines. By liquid cooling the cylinder head (especially around the exhaust valve areas) and the cylinder, key components last longer, tolerances can be closer and remain more uniform, ultimately the engine produces better performance. That noted, I've had earlier XRs, air-cooled, that ran exceptionally well for a very long time. I avoid overheating either engine design, as heat is always a concern. Oil-to-air cooling is also very effective, we have an XR400R in the family that runs quite cold in the winter and cooler in the summer! Thanks for asking and thanks for your subscription.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Hey, thanks for the explanation. If I get an air cooled bike, I’ll keep an eye out for one with an oil cooler. My TW200 was air cooled and never had any problems but then, I didn’t push the bike for many hours on end. I can see how water cooling actually becomes important design for longer hours of use. 🙏
Liquid cooling is not a guarantee that the engine won't overheat. Many owners add a radiator fan to liquid cooled engines. Some XR650R owners do this, I haven't yet, but like your TW200, we try to ride without overheating the engine. Air-cooled engines teach us to keep the bike moving in an air stream and not idling for extended periods without moving. Works with liquid cooling, too.
Very good choice but i prefer 300 beta rr 2 stroke.
Fully understand, you picked a great bike. A riding friend has a new four-stroke, plated Beta 390, and I am thoroughly impressed! I'm sure your 2-stroke delivers.
Honda followed the success of the Yamaha XT 500 using the dry sump lubrication. They improved the suspension, braking, increased capacity, utilised a counter balancer, and added two more valves to improve performance. Personally, I was partial to the XT, having owned many over a 35-year span. Perhaps I missed out on something, as I currently have a Honda crf250l, which is very comparable, albeit with slightly lower power and torque.
The Yamaha XT500 and TT500 were formidable big bore thumpers! Two-valve singles, they put Yamaha at the forefront of four-stroke racing and enduro riding. Yamaha's cantilever rear shocks were in vogue until Honda popularized the mono-shock with Pro-Link XRs. The Yamaha 500s had a great power curve and strong tip-in to redline pull. Pleased that you shared your impressions of the XT500 with the note about dry sump lubrication...Dry sump is proven. My first exposure was a 1969 BSA 441 Victor Special scrambler/thumper. (My 650 Lightning and Rocket III each had dry sump as well, common on period British bikes.) For those unfamiliar with dry sump, the increased oil supply on the XR500R, XR600R, XR400R and XR650R or L is in the frame down tube below the steering head. The additional oil and another place to dissipate heat helps cool these engines. The XR400R incorporated an oil cooler, which upgrades the system to oil-to-air cooling. Racing automotive and motorcycle engines use a dry sump to avoid windage issues and crankcase oil aeration.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Out of curiosity, did Honda also use the scavenge pump to feed hollow main and counter shafts to lubricate the internal bearings, and have oil jets to lubricate the gear contact surfaces?
Yes, similar to what you describe...Scavenged (pick-up) oil first flows through the frame head and its screen filter then to the oil filter. The filtered oil travels to the engine's lower end and valvetrain. The filtered oil also flows to the hollow transmission main and counter shafts, transmission bearings or bushings, and the orifices that feed oil to the gear bores (bearings/bushings) and teeth. This generous supply of pressurized oil assures lube whenever the engine is running. The degree of filtration and a steady oil flow reduce heat and minimize damage from any debris. Similar to the Yamaha 500?
@MotorcycleTechandTravel The XT uses a small pump to take oil from the down tube after passing a screen. It is then passed through a filter element, which then feeds the crank big end bearing, and valve rockers, and camshaft via an external oil line. The pressure is low due to the fact that there are no plain bearings anywhere in the engine, everything runs on ball bearings or needle rollers.
The oil drains down the cam chain tunnel to the crank case, where there is a small sump with a screen. The scavenge pump, which is double the feed pump in size, takes oil post screening to feed the transmission, with the residual returning to the frame backbone reservoir, the reservoir has an overflow back to the engine to maintain ballance.
Very similar with a few nuances. The Honda engine feeds filtered oil to the upper end/valvetrain through passages in the cases, cylinder and head rather than an external tube. Both engines target ultra reliability and the ability to survive under a wide range of operating angles.
what oil weight would you use on a stock xr650r ?
I run the current Honda GN4 10W/40 SJ and watch the oil coloration to determine when a change is due. I always change the pleated paper filter, sometimes between oil changes. The Honda guideline for oil changes is each 600 miles for the dual-sport overseas models. This translates to roughly 10-12 hours of off-road riding, or even less time under severe conditions...Clean the down-tube screen each 2,400 miles or maximum 20-24 hours of off-roading, inspect the screen for debris and significant metal. (Install the cleaned screen before adding fresh oil.) The screen near the clutch assembly at the bottom of the crankcase rarely gets checked; I always clean or replace this screen when removing the right side crankcase cover. The official Honda service manual is a must for orienting yourself to the bike's needs, the service intervals and performing each step.
@@MotorcycleTechandTravel thank you for the information very informative. I can't wait to get my hands on one. I've been researching these bikes and they are awesome. Super rare also. I will definitely be tuning in to your channel.
If this is the bike that fits your riding plans and uses, it will not disappoint. A tall seat height, kickstart only, and the no frills open desert enduro design reflect the XR650R's purpose-built engineering to win the Baja 1000-which it did consistently! (One of our valued subscribers has been on the podium at the last two Mint 400 races.) The bike's sheer power and precise handling have made the XR650R popular and adaptable for spinoff uses like dual-sport and super-moto riding. Worth noting, this is not my pick for a first time rider. These bikes demand and earn our respect.
you rock
Thanks, and thanks for your subscription and support for the channel!
XR650R is better for short riders 😂 KTM LC4 forever
Your bike is way more advanced technologically, a contemporary state-of-the-art rally/enduro bike...The XR650R was purpose-built for winning the 1999-2007 Baja 1000, Baja 500, 'Vegas to Reno and the Mint 400 open desert enduro competitions. Spare of technology, carbureted and kick start only, the 37" saddle height is right up there. On long races, competitors largely ride standing on the pegs. On the highway, the stock enduro seat is like a brick. 50-100 miles is time for a coffee, tea or water break! Different bikes and worlds that make us happy...Thanks for subscribing!
I'd find a Place to put a Rack, Bags, and leave it Alone
It works well...The rear subframe is not designed for hefty hauling but does handle the lighter TCI Borrego rack with its under-fender brace and typically 20-25 pounds of "stuff".