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I've lived at this high country since the early sixties with many hiking, hunting and fishing trips. When we were in the washout, my peripheral vision naturally caught the long shadows. It was around 2 o'clock when we reached the washout and approaching 3 when we left the canyon...late enough. To your question, we could have backtracked to Aurora and Four Corners. But Bodie was our aim, so we pressed through Del Monte Canyon. It all turned out well, as you can see, but the lost time altered our original plan to leave Bodie by way of the Masonic Road. You can ride on dirt from Masonic to nearly where we started at Rosaschi Ranch/NF 028...I made the comment that rocks don't show up well in the dark with our modest "dual-sport" headlights. We decided to go back the easy route: the common Bodie Road (California SR270), U.S. 395N to Bridgeport, then California SR182 to Nevada 338 and NF-028...As for summer, I would do what we should have done: Contact the Bridgeport or Wellington Ranger Station before the ride to find out road conditions. Frankly, I was quite surprised to find this rock washout in late October, the water level in Bodie Creek was low as expected. That washout was likely from heavy spring and early summer runoff or possibly summer flash flooding. Nevada 3C approaches from the north where slopes melt slowly. Snow melting can last into summer if there's a large enough winter snowpack.

@ Thanks for the response. I’ve ridden Masonic road a couple of times leaving Bodie. I would like to explore more out that way. I’m just not familiar with the complete area.

The area is worth exploring more. If you like fly fishing or fishing in general, the East Walker River is returning to its former glory (once a Blue Ribbon trout stream from below the Bridgeport Reservoir into Nevada). The reservoir controls snow run-off to a large degree, which helps preserve the fishing. Nevada State Parks is now developing camping areas along the East Walker Basin and Walker River State Recreation Area. Currently The Elbow and the Pitchfork Ranch are set up for camping. Check out the reservation system for cabins at the Pitchfork: parks.nv.gov/parks/walker-river. This area will continue to attract visitors with 12,000 acres of conservancy land now in the Nevada State Parks system. We lived at Yerington from 1994 to 2009, and most of the Basin was undeveloped. The roads and back routes in Nevada and California have existed since the mining and ranching era, which you know from your riding experiences. Have fun!

When I drove to the SEMA Show/Las Vegas this week, Mt. Grant by Walker Lake had a fresh snow level down to 8,000 feet or so. Bodie reported snow within days of our trip. November is always on the cusp and risky. It all depends on weather patterns...As for spring, we have encountered snow drifts across these north slope roads in July. I would check road conditions and base your travel accordingly. My guess, from the creek and the springs flowing above Del Monte Canyon, is that last winter was heavier. If we get another heavy winter, I would plan this ride for mid-August, September or early October-barring early storms in October. Check on road conditions with the USFS Stations at Bridgeport or Wellington. This route is Nevada State 3C, so NDOT could also have information.

@ Thanks!

You're very welcome!

Definitely an extraordinary bike...Versatile and dependable, too!

Thanks for sharing and subscribing! I read accounts first, they gave the impression that the town was largely carted off. When we turned short to head for the cemetery, the mill and townsite view became obscured. (We could see the new mine, and a nephew from Yerington had worked there.) Next trip, we'll do your approach and see the lower reaches and old mill. Aurora is easier to access, largely due to the modern mine. Yes, it's cool country, literally and figuratively! I drove by Mt. Grant/Walker Lake on the way to the SEMA Show this week, and there's a snow mantle from 8,000 feet and upward...We went to Bodie just days ahead of its first snowfall.

A technique that's served motorcycle mechanics well! I like the ease, the ability to perform the check in minutes without removing the carburetor float bowl, and the accuracy. If you know where the fuel level should be inside the bowl, this is a great way to monitor the float level. The bike needs to stand level for this check, which isn't difficult under most conditions. Enjoy tuning your motorcycle...Thanks for your feedback and subscription!

Thanks for confirming this for others. As I conveyed in the video, Bodie is not accessible by this route during late fall, winter, spring or early summer during the snow melt and run-off. (Some do snowmobile into Bodie from the main road, California 270 off U.S. 395.) I've been to the north side route in June when snow drifts still covered the higher roads. Check weather and road conditions before making this run. The U.S. Forest Service Wellington or Bridgeport Ranger Stations should be helpful. Glad you went as a group. Always safer and more resourceful if needed.

Thanks for the valued feedback...James and I are always frank with each other, and we're strongly opinioned. He's very well intentioned...Your points dovetail with what viewers see in the video. The XR650R is far more than a "main road bike". You and I have experience with the overall weight and top-heaviness of a 6.3-gallon aftermarket fuel tank. (My tail rack carries camera gear and adds another 30 pounds up high at the back.) For this trip, I adjusted my riding for a bike at approximately 360-370 pounds wet weight. You have to compensate for these dynamics, especially with a 37" saddle height. James did not need to do this on his 255-pounds wet weight and fueled Beta...The XR650R will hold a great line, respond readily, and is well suited for two-track and most single track. At Del Monte Canyon, to your point, the near full Acerbis tank held around 5.5 U.S. gallons. The 14/48 (open desert and highway) sprocket gearing and slightly larger diameter rear tire were not a good formula. Here, 13/50 gearing and a smaller fuel tank (like you suggest) would have been appropriate, however, unnecessary for the balance of this trip. I did deal with flooding from the soft tip-over, but like your experiences, the bike restarted once cleared out. Worth noting, a huge advantage is the Pulstar spark plug. If you notice, the engine did not struggle with the 8,379 feet altitude at Bodie. It ran smoothly, kicked over well and still felt frisky despite jetting for 4,200 feet. As you note, kickstarting has a significant advantage in some situations but so does EFI and electric start. (The XR650R conversion to electric start is pricy and does require a higher output stator and battery-added weight.) EFI compensates seamlessly for altitude and never floods. Electric starting would have been welcome on that off-camber side slope. Like you, however, I have ridden kickstart 4-strokes with carburetors for so long that it seems natural to "live with them". And your point about an EFI fuel pump failure is spot on. James got a real workout trying to trial kickstart his new Beta with EFI. Frankly, knowing EFI and its sensor requirements, I'm surprised the bike ever started with the kickstart lever, a credit to Beta. My first kickstart carbureted thumper was a 1969 BSA 441 Victor Special over a half century ago...Your point about value and the cost of new bikes is important, too. Sure, with an unlimited budget, a Honda CRF450RL would have been handy at the Del Monte Canyon washout. However, the roll-on throttle of a XR650R, its rich legacy in the Baja 1000 and dual-sport versatility are hard to beat. I'm a tuner, and the XR650R's performance, handling and stability over dirt or asphalt have been optimal for my primary riding environments...So we have our XRs. I have three, two are 1984 vintage (an XR500R and an XR350R, each dual carbureted). Many folks believe they have equivalent or better bikes than ours...There's a saddle for everyone!

​​@@MotorcycleTechandTravelthanks for the reply and apologies for my late reply as I have been busy. yes I understand the viewers only get a snippet of what's really going on in your ride and it can give a wrong impression of the actual experience. I agree with you on fuel injection certainly is great in situations like altitude problems etc create no issues always run to optimum in any condition and for the most part if you get a good bike, it's probably going to be so reliable it won't matter with all the extra technology in going remote situations as well. Today's bikes generally are very reliable plus you'll save fuel with EFI too and the electric start and all the bells and whistles certainly makes life allot easier. Still like you say the XR650R still has its place as all XR bikes do along with other great brands such as Suzuki DR models etc are good reliable proven bikes. You may even be interested in Suzuki's new fuel injected models of the DRZ400 that are coming out soon....?, basically the same reliable bullet proof motor with EFI and a few other goodies added. Still 5 speed though but will be interesting to see what people do with these new bikes in tweaking the maps etc and getting more power out of them etc. I just can't go past the old XR bikes for me though in my country New Zealand our altitude doesn't have the huge extreme differences like you guys over in likes of the USA to affect the carburator fuel air mix etc so I can ride everywhere here with the same jetting and have no problems at all weather im up the top of a mountain or down by the ocean it doesn't affect the bikes performence enough to be noticable or a hinderence. The big XR600 and 650R models have so much torque too which I love. I used to ride a 97 XR600R I owned in Western Australia while working over there a few years ago in the thick sand dunes and the torque of the big single really handled it with ease. I've owned three XR600R bikes over the years and that's probably my favorite model all and all but I also really enjoy the completely different XR650R model which is a beast in it's own right. I own two XR650R I have a 2001 and also recently bought another 2006 model which is very low hour original extremely tidy. I buy my bikes to use though and the benefit of having two is I now can interchange things between the two such as have one set up different gearing for different rides and one with more aggressive tires and one with more road orientated tires plus the fact the bikes are identical apart from different colour graphics all parts can be interchangable. I got a good price on the 2006 model and I couldn't turn it down plus they are bikes I'll keep for ever so with parts eventually getting harder to get it made sense to take the second one as well. I have one old 94 model XR600R left which i plan to restore I've done a bit to it already although it still looks cosmetically rough it's a pretty good bike. I have a CRF450 carb on it and it really makes it snappy and responsive instant power it makes a difference I also have the original carb but I do quite like the CRF carb on it actually. There's a very short clip on my channel of my girlfriend having a quick go around the yard on it. I plan to start uploading a few adventures on my channel when I get the time, might not be for a month or so as I'm extremely busy with work and renovations on my house and truck repairs at the moment but I'll put some up of different riding situations when I get the chance so feel free to subscribe if you keen to see some Old XR bikes action in New Zealand. I'm am in the process of hopefully buying a dream bike I've wanted for many years which is a 1986 XL600R twin carb red white and blue model with gold wheels and swing arm. It's very tidy and original and only done 4000 miles from new. So that bike will feature on my channel too at some stage if I am lucky enough to obtain it. I'm planning on heading down to the Burt Munro Rally and race week in invercargil this coming February too and I hope to get some footage of that, both The journey down which will involve allot of off road and road riding from the top of the south island to the bottom of the south island in invercargil plus footage at the Rally itself so that may be something you interested in as well. Thanks for your amazing videos you create and great seeing another fellow XR rider ripping it up out in the back country 👍 Regards Tim.

Tim...There is a practical side to EFI. Worth noting is that there's no flooding-ever. On the downside, the fuel pump and electronics must work. I have a method, and will share it, on how to test the condition of an electric fuel pump (EFI type) before remote riding without removing a single part from the motorcycle. The pump is an item that gives us pause for concern, as the bike is dead without the fuel pump. Carrying a spare fuel pump still requires installing it in the field...Overall, though, a switch to EFI should be welcome, and the DRZ400 is a logical candidate. Before bashing carburetors, though, I'll emphasize that my carbureted bikes have never failed me. On the Bodie trip, importantly, even the jetting was not an issue. Again, I attribute this to the use of a Pulstar spark plug that can burn a richer mixture. At one point, we were 4,000 feet elevation above our home base elevation, and I got away with it. That's not always the case with carburetor jetting, though...I like your "two bike" approach with each bike set up differently. It would have been optimal to switch bikes at the washout in Del Monte Canyon. Shedding 100 pounds of bike weight (the big tank, stout tail rack, the dual-sport conversion, hefty camera gear, etc.), a lower center-of-gravity, more aggressive (non-"dual sport") tires, lower sprocket gearing, etc., could have made the situation simpler. (A Rekluse clutch would also have been an option, even with the stock gearing.) You're smart to have two XR650R profiles...The CRF carburetor on an XR600R engine is intriguing. Did you do much re-jetting?...The XL600R sounds intriguing, much like my XR500R but street legal. I'm a fan of the dual carburetors, they got a bad rap that is completely unwarranted. Both my '84 XRs with dual carburetors have worked flawlessly. (The secret is to simply follow the OEM procedure for sync'ing and staging the carburetors. They are progressive and do not run in tandem!) I will subscribe to your channel, and thoroughly look forward to your travel videos, the country is extraordinary. There's a learning curve with video editing but well worth doing. Go for it!

Thanks Moses, I'm interested to look up the pulstar sparkplug you talk about that sounds interesting I've never heard of that type of plug before, sounds like it could be a handy option for sure and a easy quick change in the field. I'd be be very interested to see how you test the fuel pump on the way you describe, sounds great and I'm sure my friend would be interested as well with his BMW 650X his fuel pump somehow got water into it's housing and it had rusted out in the internals. It was a wonder how it was still actually running the way it was till it actually died. E had since replaced it with a brand new one and it's running great again. Thankyou for the info on the duel carb setup, I'm aware of there progressive feed with one supplying at lower rpm and the second kicking in as rpm gets higher but I've never ever owned a bike with the duel carbs so I'm interested to see how they go. I've heard that when they are synchronized right they provide more power repose than a single carb on the later model XR bikes.... would this be correct or false in your opinion? Either way I'm very interested to see how they operate and yes they will be a learning curve for me to work out how they work. I'm sure there are videos on TH-cam somewhere of how to correctly sync them but yes the owners manual techniques would be the way to go. Do they end up getting out of sync by them selves often and need to be re adjusted? or once set properly do they usually stay pretty right? I'm not sure if this bike has the owners manual though so I'll have to find one if it doesn't. I always make sure I have a owners workshop manuals for my bikes to maintain them correctly. The CRF450 carb was already on the bike when I bought it around 5 years ago and I haven't had any probs with it so haven't had it apart to see what jetting it's running although I've heard of guys putting them on the XR600 before, it used to be a common modification to do and they seem to operate well. It gives a total different feel to the bike to the original factory kleihn carb which I really like the original but also like the way this one goes too. I have the original carb for it also but will leave this one the way it is. Thankyou for subscribing your my 3rd subscriber now lol. I will get some videos out at some point but yes as you say there is allot of learning to do there too with editing etc so it's all new territory for me there as well. But will be fun to learn and have a go. I'm looking forward to getting some trips recorded and put up on line mainly for looking back on in years to come for friends and family or anyone ous around the world who's interested in that sort thing as well. Thanks for your reply and I look forward to your upcoming videos they are always entertaining and interesting to learn from. 👍

Tim...My support for the Pulstar spark plug is not "shilling". These spark plugs make a world of difference. I ran to Bodie with a 4,100 foot change in elevation from my home base tuning. At least for the carbureted XR650R, the bike started well and ran flawlessly without changing jets. Were the bike to stay at that elevation for any time, I would change the main jet, but the Pulstar plug fired through the richer mixture during this trip. There's a rundown on the plug's technology at the channel: th-cam.com/video/4Dl-t8sJQtA/w-d-xo.html...The fuel pump test that I will share determines the actually condition of the pump's rotor and sectors at the time of the test. This is not a crystal ball, and a spontaneous failure is always possible with an electric motor. EFI pumps are usually durable, though, and the condition of the BMW 650X's pump would have shown telltale signs of failure with the test. I test my 4x4 Jeep's fuel pump before remote backcountry trips...Yes, the dual carburetors are progressive. The "secondary" carburetor has no idle circuit. This carburetor kicks in as the throttle reaches a specific opening. In my experience, the transition to both carburetors is seamless if the carburetors are clean and flowing fuel properly. To your question, I have checked the XR350R carburetors' sync once in 28 years. Any discrepancy in settings would be cable/linkage stretch. Important to note, and a secret to the dual-carbureted RFVC engine performance, is the second intake port in the cylinder head for the secondary carburetor. In my view, accusations that these systems do not work are inaccurate. Honda likely went to the single carburetor and intake port on the later XRs for ease of service and quicker tuning at the race pits...If you need any tips on video editing, please ask. There is a video at the channel on how the XR650R is set up for filming in the field. While GoPro cameras have a definite place, the Insta360 X3 or better yet the newer X4 is phenomenal. The Insta360 software has a reasonable learning curve, and the ability to hand pick the many FOV (field of view) angles is a real asset...Looking forward to your video progress and trips!...Moses

Thanks for your feedback and subscription!...Yes, we had a real adventure and gained valuable insight. That country is beautiful and always a joy. Wide open space and fall colors, too!

Thanks, James! Yes, looking forward to the adventures ahead!

Yes, and insightful, too. We met the unexpected challenges squarely, teamwork paid off, and we had a successful day! Much to reflect on and more to share at the channel.

James, we had a great day and quite an adventure ride! Part 2 has a lot of action and will launch shortly...I'm looking forward to more "destination" motorcycle travel and heartily encourage you to post your videos at your motorcycle channel. Share the links, I'll make them visible to Motorcycle Tech and Travel subscribers and viewers. Our synergy works, we have common outdoor and on- and off-road motorcycle interests. Glad to support your work!

Yes, it is! When we lived at Yerington, north from the Four Corners, this route was a regular treat...The Sweetwater Range, Bridgeport, Twin Lakes, Bodie, the Hawthorne-Fletcher Road, Lucky Boy Pass and the East Walker River's high desert country create lasting memories. The new and expanding Nevada State Park will assure the East Walker Basin's availability for public recreation in the future. Enjoy it!...We rode last week on October 24th. Now there are skiffs of snow where we rode. We caught the tail end of fall!

So, I'm running a 168 main jet (65 pilot/slow jet), slightly rich, and I can get by with a 165 at 4,200 feet elevation. We reached as high as 8,379 feet at Bodie, which you'll see in the Part 2 video. I got away with the 168, without fuss, but the "secret" is my use of a Pulstar spark plug that can fire through a richer mix. If I were to pick a jet for just the East Walker River/NFS 028 Road and higher altitudes, it would be a 162 with my engine tune. I have a HotCams Stage 1 camshaft and stock 10:1 compression with the stock carburetor and air filtration. The exhaust is stock with the HRC or 49-state enlarged tailpipe opening. Frankly, the Pulstar spark plug has enabled richer jetting for short periods at altitude. The XR650R has a forgiving nature around main jetting...I trust this helps.

Excellent, thanks for sharing and congrats! Brazilian Jiu-jitsu is incredibly robust and involves all muscle groups, a cardio workout and resistance training...I rode the Nevada back route to Bodie, California yesterday with a friend who rides an electric start, EFI Beta 390...I found myself kick starting a flooded XR650R in a washed out creek bed, a good test for cardio fitness. I passed the test three times at 8,000 feet elevation. I would not ride without being in the best physical condition possible. Knowing our vital signs and limits is helpful when training. Years ago, I prepared for the Land Rover Trek competition and found a Polar heart rate monitor very helpful. It enabled me to gain fitness and cardio stamina gradually without stressing or overdoing it! I was 47 then, and I'm 75 now, riding the 'Big Red Pig'...As a footnote, I will concede that EFI and electric starting have their place! Maybe a bike like that in my future?

​@@MotorcycleTechandTravel dunno. I have a 2018 ktm 500exc with reworked suspension. For the stuff you're doing in this video, either bike is fine. It's an easier dirtbike. I do prefer the xr650r for dual sport, I enjoy it on rural roads and most desert. 500 just doesn't have that"vibe" sorta like riding a harley if that makes sense, and the xr650r pulls out of a corner like nobody's business

Your reply is timely and spot on...I am uploading Part 2 of the Aurora-Bodie trip, and you nailed it. The video speaks for itself. In Part 1, we rode "main dirt roads" with the XR650R in its element. These bikes are hefty but remarkably stable unless pushed to their limit in a single track environment. See Part 2...The dynamic changes with an unexpected terrain shift, and James' light, flickable Beta 390 (like your KTM 500EXC) sails through. Meanwhile my overloaded, somewhat "ADV" modified XR650R gets pushed to its limit. There is a significant place for the XR650R. I'll be discussing that "place" at length, and you'll be nodding your head. Thanks for your comments and subscription. Looking forward to more.

@MotorcycleTechandTravel Sounds fun, we did mammoth 2, 3 weeks ago. Took the Pig and a 790r. Fwiw kicking a flooded pig..turn off fuel, wack throttle open, kick 5,10x with decompress. Try start as usual. Turn on fuel, go

Turning off the Acerbis fuel supply and wide open throttle are good tips. I do clean out with the compression release on and spark off...I'm surprised how well these engines clear out. (Likely the big bore, it's only 0.060" smaller than a 327 Corvette V8.) With the Pulstar plug, the burn is immediately clean and smooth once the engine fires...Mammoth sounds like fun, too!

Water-cooled engines do not have as wide an expansion rate as air-cooled engines. By liquid cooling the cylinder head (especially around the exhaust valve areas) and the cylinder, key components last longer, tolerances can be closer and remain more uniform, ultimately the engine produces better performance. That noted, I've had earlier XRs, air-cooled, that ran exceptionally well for a very long time. I avoid overheating either engine design, as heat is always a concern. Oil-to-air cooling is also very effective, we have an XR400R in the family that runs quite cold in the winter and cooler in the summer! Thanks for asking and thanks for your subscription.

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Hey, thanks for the explanation. If I get an air cooled bike, I’ll keep an eye out for one with an oil cooler. My TW200 was air cooled and never had any problems but then, I didn’t push the bike for many hours on end. I can see how water cooling actually becomes important design for longer hours of use. 🙏

Liquid cooling is not a guarantee that the engine won't overheat. Many owners add a radiator fan to liquid cooled engines. Some XR650R owners do this, I haven't yet, but like your TW200, we try to ride without overheating the engine. Air-cooled engines teach us to keep the bike moving in an air stream and not idling for extended periods without moving. Works with liquid cooling, too.

Pleased about the high mileage you're getting on these engines. They are real workhorses. Kibblewhite valves make sense, a good investment. L.A. Sleeve did my head work with new intakes. Poor air filtration can wipe intakes out quickly, I bought the bike with pitted intakes and went with the head work and the L.A. Sleeve chromoly/iron liner as opposed to Nikasil. You're living proof that Nikasil works. The Ricky stator is popular for any serious kind of lighting, a fan is good insurance and Seat Concepts is a tailbone saver that I'm overdue to get! I like your giant loop approach for shifting weight to the seat when carrying gear-smart! The factory 6mm stud size screws holding the rugged TCI under-fender brace is not confidence inspiring, nor is the aluminum rear subframe. I keep my cargo weight limit down for that reason. It's a Baja-bred enduro bike, right?

I have a manracks rear fender metal support only. Most drill out the bolt holes and install grade 8. Not sure efficacy of that. A coyote bag fits ok back there for baja runs. I suppose I could get a great basin bag on there if I need. Have to say that seat concepts...well worth the cash🤣😅 so much that I enjoy it on street. I've tried to love the 690. Just can't.

The XR650R is hard to beat, went 70 miles yesterday on gravel washboard, two-track, single track crawling, creek crossings, graded dirt and eventually pavement with sweeping and "S" curves. Enjoyable and seamless.

Well, you needed to pull down the upper engine for the seeping head gasket, anyway. As for wheelies, oil out the breather could be from excess oil in the frame down tube "tank". This is where you fill and check the oil. If the wheelie causes oil to overfill that frame tube, perhaps it would go out the breather...While the head is off, check the valves for sealing and the head straightness. You can check valves with a makeshift vacuum gauge and stiff rubber plate bolted to the valve's port. The idea is to see if the valves hold vacuum. If there is any question here, do a valve job. (Sublet the work if necessary). As for the one-way reed valve, its purpose is to keep transmission oil out of the crankcase crankshaft chamber and also to expel oil from that chamber into the transmission area. Accumulation of oil around the crankshaft can drain power or, at worst, prevent crankshaft rotation. The breather tube is above that chamber, and if oil were trapped in the crankshaft area, it would pump up the breather tube...I'd like someone to try a vacuum test at the breather tube before pulling down the upper engine. Vacuum applied at the tube is below the piston. If the rings are sealing, vacuum should hold to a degree in the crankcase. (Seals have a one-way lip, so the crankshaft seals would yield/leak inward if too much vacuum is applied. Keep apply vacuum below that threshold.) This would test the crankshaft seals and the reed valve, which is a one-way valve. Once the head and cylinder have been removed, however, this test would be near impossible because the connecting rod is above the cylinder base. If the rod were not there, you could make a plate with rubber and a steel backer to seal the crankcase's cylinder opening, then apply vacuum at the breather tube. Short of a vacuum test, there's not a "factory" troubleshooting test for the reed valve. The crankcase requires separating/splitting to inspect or replace the reed valve.

A leak down test and evaluating the results would have been my first move before a teardown. Objectively, the bike's mileage can justify a look at piston rings, the piston, cylinder wall condition, the valvetrain and valve wear. At this point, if the head is still assembled, I would do a vacuum test of the valves or in any case do a valve job. Looking further into this subject, there are accounts of engines like yours, with no apparent wear, some with parts renewed, cylinder re-plating, new rings and all-still blowing oil out the breather. The scenario is an engine that had run fine then "suddenly" began blowing oil out the breather...Fortunately, I've not experienced this, but apparently it happens. There's a possible culprit if everything else checks okay: the reed valve for the crankcase. This item costs less than $20 but requires splitting the crankcase apart to install. If the reed valve is defective or broken, oil will accumulate in the crankcase and get whipped by the crankshaft flyweights. The breather tube exits from this chamber/section. As the piston lowers in the cylinder, the resulting (normal) crankcase pressure causes this one-way reed valve to open and expel oil from the crankshaft chamber. In the process, the reed valve also prevents transmission oil from finding its way into the crankshaft chamber...Discuss this with your shop. If you cannot find a reason for blow-by or loss of cylinder pressure past the rings, and there's no sign of leakage past the intake and exhaust valves, the reed valve could be involved. Were the engine still together, I would apply vacuum at the breather port tube and see whether there is a considerable vacuum leak. That kind of leak from the crankcase could be a defective reed valve. If the reed valve can be pinpointed as the cause for oil accumulating in the crankshaft chamber, the engine comes out of the frame to split the crankcase apart.

Nice! I'm presuming your XR650R is a factory dual-sport European model. The U.S. market was "off-highway" enduro only. We even had a California versus 49-State emissions standard, and the California models came with unique add-on emissions equipment. Factory carburetor main jetting on all XR650Rs was ridiculously lean. My XR650R was converted by the original owner to a dual-sport with an aftermarket Baja Designs kit (sadly, no longer available). It became eligible for highway legal use at Texas. I live at Nevada, a state that respected the Texas title. (Nevada also permits off-highway motorcycle conversions for highway use.) Our DMV issued a highway-legal title and annual, renewable registration. Many states, beginning with California, no longer allow dual-sport conversions of factory "off-highway" (dirt/enduro) motorcycles. I'm fortunate. You're even more fortunate to have wiring, lighting and other dual-sport equipment installed at the factory. Enjoy that motorcycle and thanks for the subscription!

Well, this sounds familiar. I have the two '84 twin carb XRs, a 350R and 500R. We were fortunate to find the XR400R with super low use, a virtual time capsule. I'm discovering that Honda parts availability wanes after 15 years or so. If you need red plastic OEM parts, some are getting hard to find. Some turn up at eBay, new or used. Enjoy your XR400R and thanks for subscribing!

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel yes my brother fully rebuilt the 350r after I bought my 400 he wished he kept it, fyi my mate has an xr 500 it ran on a fully cracked piston, I also bought a 99 cr 250 and the owner had the piston installed backwards it still ran but weirdon high revs, I ended up buying a new piston gave it a DIY hone with wet n dry ran fine, that's Honda for ya🇭🇲

Yep, Honda works for us! The 350R and 500R with dual carburetors are not complex or a liability as some claim. The second carburetor is "progressive" and has no idle circuit. Following the factory kick-in adjustment for the secondary carburetor, you cannot tell that these bikes have dual carburetors-other than the great performance of the RFVC (radial four valve chamber cylinder head) engine. For the era, and even today, these Pro-Link bikes are great performers. Reliability is a hallmark of Honda dirt bikes! Thanks for the input and your subscription to the channel...More to come!

Pleased to know how well your XRs have performed. You got into the engine a bit, a thorough job, so you will get reliable, quality performance from your bike. Thanks for subscribing to the channel. More to come on the XR650R!

What's the model and your usage? I'm glad to comment...

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Rebel 500 for commuting rear round. I don't skip any maintenance, and it still has the original battery. Thank You!

The Rebel 500 has an excellent reputation for reliability. Yours is proof. There are two factors that increase the longevity of your parallel twin 471cc engine: liquid cooling and EFI. Liquid cooling on your twin keeps cylinder and head temperatures down and uniform. Minimizing expansion and contraction enables closer tolerances for optimal wear and longevity. EFI provides an additional boost by constantly maintaining air/fuel ratios. Able to avoid rich and overly lean mixtures, striving for 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio at cruise for complete burn, no fuel gets wasted. Changing altitude with an O2 sensor is a non-issue, EFI compensates for altitude and maintains the correct A/F mixtures. This and your careful maintenance contribute to longevity. A lightweight (416 pounds curb weight), nimble model with ample power-to-weight ratio, the Rebel does not strain to get the job done...If and when power drops off, run a cylinder leak down test to assess the engine's condition. For now, if it feels right, keep tuning and servicing the bike regularly to enjoy it!

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Thank you so very much, Safe Travels.

Travel safely as well...My guess was that your Rebel is a 2017 or newer model with the equipment I described (liquid cooling and EFI)...In any case, 73K miles is a testimonial to the bike's longevity and your care...Thanks for subscribing!

Thanks for your feedback and kudos! I'm very pleased to serve the motorcycle community and discover what subscribers need. I do not currently have a commercial shop an am not working on others' bikes. Instead, I am using the "Night School for Motorcycle Mechanics" and "Tech and Travel Q&A" to pass along as much experience and useful information as possible. My goal is to have the channel's supporters perform professional grade work on their bikes or at the very least "think like a professional mechanic"...As for the XR650R racks, they were from TCI Products a decade ago. Moose Racing became involved in selling TCI Products and remains a possible contact. (Several sources online share that TCI racks are no longer available.) The full set of double racks weigh around 20-25 pounds, including the essential under fender brace. (I should weigh these components, rack weight gets discussed a lot.) Keep in mind that your XR650R has a light aluminum subframe. Our bikes are race bred for enduro, and Honda did not accommodate a rear passenger nor anticipate ADV-type loads on the chassis. I keep my bike's total rear add-on weight, including the racks, to around 50 pounds, removing the Sequoia side racks when not on a major excursion. The Borrego tail rack with under fender brace is plenty for day trips. Let us know what you're considering and finding for racks. We'll put our heads together on this one.

@MotorcycleTechandTravel i will be doing the TAT next year and will need a good rack, and I also know a company that just built an Estarter for it, too. I am somewhat pumped up, very hopeful to ride my xr650r instead of my africa twin, just in case it comes down to a solo ride for the most part.

The TAT on your XR650R should be a real adventure! Keep us posted on the preparation for that venture. The Electric starter and peripheral electrics will transform the bike. (I'm still kick starting, but with a 37" saddle height, that can be a challenge.) You will be upgrading the stator, mounting a battery and creating enough wattage for quality lighting. The factory workshop manual will help with the wiring; the global market included XR650R factory dual-sport models with full lighting.

Uploaded "Night School for Motorcycle Mechanics, Session 3 during the night...I segued to a key technical topic with the goal of "universalizing" subject matter. I'm narrowing the restoration pick to a few alternatives. Road, dual-sport and dirt bikes still on the table! Your thoughts or ideas? Expect a bike on the lift shortly...Enjoy these sessions and put them to work!...I value your feedback, thanks for the channel subscription.

Pleased to provide it! Thanks for your subscription...I just launched Session 3 of Night School for Motorcycle Mechanics. More Q&A videos coming as well.

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel can't wait

Thanks, I just launched the latest episode of "Q&A"...Enjoy it!

A sharp bike like your '103' will make you famous!

All the success on that sale. Great bike, I trust there's one to follow!

Tudor...Thanks for your feedback and subscription to the channel...As you know, the XR650R is a dry sump lubrication system. There normally is a relatively small amount of oil at the oil sump pickup point in the crankcase. I'm unclear how much wear or hours you have on this engine. To rule out the possibility of intake valve issues or piston ring blow-by into the crankcase (which could force oil out the breather or back up through the carburetor toward the air filter), I would start with a cylinder leakdown test. See these two videos at the channel. The more recent video shows exceptionally good cylinder seal, the first video is the engine in need of top end rebuilding due to intake valve and piston ring troubles: th-cam.com/video/pdtYbJJVFes/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/jzYhsi9aMGQ/w-d-xo.html. If there is poor cylinder piston/ring seal, the cylinder pressures will blow into the crankcase and overwhelm the breather system. Back flow from leaking intake valves will go upward through the carburetor toward the air filter. If both issues exist at the same time, there will be oil from the crankcase blowing upward past the rings and into the combustion chamber. That oil would then leak past the intake valves and travel through the carburetor toward the air filter. If you do not have a leakdown tester but have an oxy-acetylene welding/brazing setup, you can carefully knock the porcelain and center electrode out of an old spark plug, remove the ground strap, and braze an air coupler "plug" into the spark plug shell. Clean away any debris or roughness on the remaining metal spark plug shell...Bring the piston to precise TDC on its compression stroke, and with the "tool" fitted into the spark plug threads, apply around 60 PSI (more if necessary) to the air plug. This will pressurize the cylinder with the valves closed, and if the rings are not sealing, air will rush into the crankcase. You will hear air spewing from the breather system. If air is blowing out the air filter end of the carburetor, you have intake valves that are not sealing, a reflection of the tight intake valves when you adjusted them. (Valve seat recession/wear caused the tight valves.) When valves are not seating, they further carbon up or get pitted. I bought my XR650R from the original owner, and the aftermarket air cleaner had not been sealing properly. The intake valves were badly pitted and leaking. Abrasive debris also damaged the rings and cylinder wall as noted in the earlier leakdown test video. This kind of damage calls for a top-end teardown and remedy. This is why I always start with a leakdown test. If the valves and rings are sealing (a good score on the leakdown test) without ring "blow-by", there is another cause for oil in the breather system and up the intake stream: too much oil accumulating in the crankcase. I would check the oil strainer in the front frame down tube and also the oil screen at the right side (clutch side) of the crankcase. (The filter screen at the lower edge of the crankcase is accessible with the right side cover removed.) Since the XR650R engine is a unit construction like most modern motorcycle engines, the transmission is also part of the engine's lubrication system. Debris from the clutch and transmission will filter through the crankcase oil screen and can clog that screen. The screen gets serviced infrequently, typically when replacing clutch frictions. If you have an early XR650R like mine, consider installing the updated clutch guide (P/N 22116-MBN-671) while you have the cover removed. You can inspect the clutch frictions at the same time.

Hi! What you are telling me is on the same plane of thought as mine. Since I don't have the right tools for measurements and such, I'm taking the bike to a shop where it will be put through the steps you described. Appreciate the ideea for the "compression tool", very smart, I like it. I really hoped maybe I had overlooked something really basic, after all the domestic troubleshooting I tried, but my worst fears must now be faced. When I clean the carb, it starts pretty much first kick, cold and hot, pulls hard, no apparent smoke, not even deccelerating, which made me think valve seals are ok still, but as soon as it starts to gunk up the carb...runs lean, hangs the revs, idles high, then low, and all that. Since I'm not the first owner , maybe I should have done it before. As for the clutch, I recently swaped the outer basket, quite a bit of play, both rotational with the gear, and quite some radial movement as well.(My bike is a 02'. Has about 25k miles. Maybe a few more when the odometer was off. I'm currently running 15/38 gearing. Have tried others too) I also changed the center guide you mention, and to my surprise it already had the updated part. Clutch pack is under 6k miles, and looked like new, works and feels very solid. I will write here what I find, as soon as I have conclusive evidence, if that's allright. Maybe it will be helpfull to other xr diehards as well. Thank you, Tudor

You're very welcome, Tudor...Didn't want to be the bearer of bad news, but I'm pragmatic. Ruling out blow-by is always the first step, whether we're comfortable with the outcome or not. Without clarifying cylinder and valve seal, pursuing other remedies is pointless. Glad you understand. You might try a simple compression check to see whether the valves are leaking badly before doing a cylinder leakdown check. Rings can be deceptive, while valves will often show up with a simple compression test. My approach would be to buy a leakdown tool that you can use for years on your bikes and automotive engines, it's far less costly than a dealership diagnostics check. (My Snap-On tester has been used a hundred or more times since the early eighties.) Here's a contemporary, affordable OTC tool that has a good reputation, there are even less expensive leakdown testers at Amazon's product listings, but I would trust this tool: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030EVL60/. (Weigh the tool's cost against at least an hour's labor at the dealership.) The homemade "tool" I described is actually my valve hold tool used for removing/changing valve springs with the cylinder head in place. Years ago, many of us made these tools for that purpose...As an '02 XR650R, your update clutch guide bushing may have been factory or added by a previous owner, glad you checked when you renewed the clutch pack. The desired bushing has four lubrication holes...Your gearing is quite tall, must be a supermoto or primarily highway use? Please keep us informed about the engine's condition and the path you take. The channel's video on top end rebuilding and the L.A. Sleeve upgrade will prove useful if you need to go down that road. Start with the leakdown test.

Tudor...I just uploaded Episode 3 of Tech and Travel Q&A. Our exchange is the core of this episode. Once you do the leak down test, the prospects can be sorted out. There are deep-dive issues like the oil reed valve or internal crankcase O-ring seals that cannot be addressed without completely disassembling the engine and splitting the crankcase halves. Let's not borrow that kind of trouble until a leak down test provides some insight. If your XR650R has in excess of 25,000 miles, that's a lot of piston and ring travel for a thumper. The leak down test will be revealing and the best place to start. (Frankly, I consider a leak down test part of a major tune-up-that's easy to say when you have a tester!) Following break-in after my top engine build, I did the first valve clearance adjustment and leak down test on the 2000 XR650R. There was a 0.0005" (half a thousandth) adjustment at one of the four valves, the other three valves remained spot on. This is a tribute to L.A. Sleeve's quality cylinder head work. The leak down read 9%, very reassuring!

Hi Moses! I'm overwhelmed by the fact you dedicated your time to do an episode based on our discussion. I really appreciate it. I'm glad the leakage on your engine is minimal, that shows not only the quality of the parts, but the quality of the procedures done as well! I will post on the new episode my findings. Thank you, Tudor

Yep, we see a lot of wheel standing with BRPs! The 6.3-gallon fuel tank lowers the temptation some.

Agreed...I bought my XR650R from the original owner who had done the Baja Designs dual-sport conversion-which I wanted. I've kept each original part since installing the tank, racks and skid protection. My bikes can easily be returned to "stone stock".

Thanks for the feedback! We'll see how this unfolds and the viewer response...The subscriptions are an indication and encouraging.

Good point, thanks! It's rpm that keeps the engine in its peak torque range for fuel mileage and useful power. I use the peak torque rpm as the point where the engine will pull best and maximize fuel efficiency. (This is my prime factor when calculating a reasonable "cruising" rpm.) The trouble with our dirt bikes is that they generally do not have a tachometer. Engine RPM becomes a math problem, factoring the transmission's top gear ratio, final drive sprocket ratio and rear tire diameter (revs per mile) matched with an intended "cruise speed". This can and should be done.

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel bingo!

This is certainly a place to start, Honda's factory approach for street/dual-sports. (Your rear tire must be close in diameter to a 4.50-18, otherwise the sprocket ratio needs changing to compensate.) The rest of the engine-clutch lifespan is up to riding style. If you have a model year 2000 XR650R, the clutch guide bushing was P/N 22116-MBN-670, which was later updated. Many 2000-up bikes have the updated bushing if any clutch or right side crankcase cover service work was performed. Some dealerships replaced the early bushing during routine service. It's not clear when Honda actually updated from the 670 to the 671 bushing design, possibly by engine number. The original 2000-2002 dealership parts catalogs would help confirm. Today, all 2000-2007 models use the part number P/N 22116-MBN-671. Not an expensive part, this update is needed for adequate bushing lubrication when idling the bike at traffic stops or on the trail (or in a creek crossing) with the clutch disengaged and in gear.

Great. 17 inch Supermoto wheels are not that far off. For some reason I thought the original clutch bushing guide was in the 2000-2001 XR650R and got upgraded after. I’m glad to learn it was upgraded in 2001 as that’s the year of my XR650R and one less thing to worry about. Look forward to more videos.

I updated my comment about the clutch guide bushing...Some claim that their 2001 or 2002 model had the earlier 670 bushing. (The final say would be a Honda dealership's older catalogs from 2000, 2001 and 2002.) One account shares that a 670 bushing seized on the mainshaft at 120 miles from new. Others never changed the earlier style bushing, finally did it, and discovered that the two-hole (early style) bushing lasted for many years and still functioned "fine" with no sign of heat damage or seizure...There is only one way to know for sure which bushing you have: remove the cover and clutch basket. This would also determine the condition of the clutch discs/frictions and the steel plates, which would be worthwhile if you're unclear of clutch wear or type of bushing in place. The point here is that the early 670 bushing has only two oil/lubrication holes; the 671 upgrade clutch guide has four oiling holes plus a lube groove for better lubrication at the mainshaft and basket. I'm guessing that my guide was replaced by the previous owner, as there are clearly enough miles on the bike to expose dry bushing damage. I just bought a new 671 bushing to store until I remove the cover; part numbers for our XR650R models are beginning to fall off. I don't want to get caught with an obsolete parts situation down the road. All told, the damage comes from holding the clutch lever in while stopped and in gear with the engine idling. A supermoto would get its share of this condition at traffic signals, since you would want to be in gear for safety sake. If you do remove parts for inspection, please update us and share your findings.

Importantly, there was no "dual-sport" edition for the U.S. All models sold were for off-highway or enduro use only. Dual sport models weigh more, accordingly...If your European model was "uncorked", meaning that there is no D-shaped restrictor in the intake and the exhaust tailpipe has a larger outlet (HRC-style), your engine would likely match the Federal U.S. bikes (49-State, non-California XR650R/A) with an HRC tailpipe. However, U.S. models had extremely lean carburetor jetting for emissions requirements. California models were restricted even further with extra emission control devices (XR650R/AC). All U.S. XR650R bikes were "detuned" to meet emissions standards, and Honda did not list a horsepower rating for the bikes sold in the U.S. If you have the factory service manual, you will find that European and Australian models each have carburetors with richer jets (175 main; 65 pilot) than U.S. models. These bikes were not restricted for emissions like U.S. models...My bike was originally 49-State with a round intake stream like yours and the HRC-style or 49-State tailpipe. I added a mild HotCams Stage 1 camshaft and re-jetted with jets similar to your bike. (I adjusted for my altitude.) Your horsepower rating is likely at the crankshaft. I'm probably making 62-64 horsepower at the crankshaft and something like 55-plus horsepower at the rear wheel. That's my guess, it would take a dynamometer test to verify rear wheel horsepower...Thanks for subscribing!

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel Well , i heard about the uncorked version trought all these years but i didn´t realize 'till now' that there was differences in the carburetor jets neither that also was a restrictor in the intake. However, i knew about the spark arrestor for the tail pipe and i thought that was also some extra part on the air filter for the U.S. bikes to restrict the air flow. Back in June of 2000, when i received the call from the dealership that my bike was arrived they only asked me if i wanted the turning signals mounted or not and mouted 2 big review mirrors, plus a spare parts back pack with a spark arrestor tail pipe and some plastic part for the air filter when using the bike on water extreme trails. And then they told me...- Hey, don´t open full throtlle on the first 300 km´s ,ok! For Run-in purposes. Well i think i forgot about it sooner than that... as in ridding back home :)

Your 2000 XR650R model, like mine, has one part that does need changing: the clutch guide bushing (P/N 22116-MBN-670) was updated later with a P/N 22116-MBN-671. Not an expensive part, this update is needed for adequate lubrication when idling the bike at traffic stops or on the trail (or in a creek crossing) with the clutch lever disengaged and in gear. The update part is the current replacement part for 2000-2007 models. If you did not change this guide bushing, you likely treat the bike properly. When you do a clutch plate change or deep clutch service, install this update part. My 2000 model bike was preowned, and I am not sure whether the previous owner replaced this guide bushing. I just ordered a 22116-MBN-671 replacement part. I will keep the part on my parts shelf for when I rebuild the clutch in the future. No sign of trouble, so the bushing may have been replaced earlier.

I went to the Pulstar site. They have an NGK cross-reference chart. Your DPR8EA-9 crosses over to a Pulstar HE2RT8. To verify this finding or for other NGK cross-overs, go to pulstar.com/pages/shop and click on the link "NGK CROSS-REFERENCE LOOKUP TABLE". I trust this helps...

Pleased with your heads up! Looking forward to your participating. Thanks...

If the tip includes a portion of the brass threaded section, you may be able to drill into the brass screw with a small drill. Stay on center and do not damage the carburetor body threads! If you can find an easy-out that small, that would work to remove the piece. If not, a tiny screwdriver could be gently tapped into the drilled hole. With enough bite, the screwdriver could then be turned to remove the piece. Let us know if this helps.

Thanks for the heads up...Room for improvement here!

:) Just trying to be helpful. God bless.

Fully understand...The audio did go sideways with the two mics. Your heads up was constructive! Thanks for following the content and supporting the channel...I value feedback, it's always welcome.

Thanks for sharing your experience...It's a juggling act trying to do right between on-highway and off-pavement gearing. Experiencing the various ratios and tire sizes helps narrow this down! Worth mentioning is the ratio of our on- versus off-road riding. I originally expected 70% off-road with 30% aimed at getting to the riding venues on asphalt. When the bike showed its stuff on pavement, that quickly shifted to more like 70% highway and 30% off-pavement. We've each experimented with oversized tires. I've been running a slightly oversized rear tire as described in the video: a Michelin T63 D.O.T.-approved 50/50 enduro tire in 130/80-18 (5.00/5.10) versus the stock 4.50-18.

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel I'm currently running the OEM sizes front and rear in a shinko 244 and couldn't be happier so far. Went from basically the most aggressive knobby I could find with a DOT stamp. Just to find out these actually perform on sand, gravel, and any other normal road surface better than a knobby. Going to these tires The only thing I've lost as far as traction goes is mud or wet grass which I try to avoid both regardless. And they're absolutely wonderful on the highway. Just like you I thought it was going to be a dirt bike that was street legal. But now it's a street legal bike that can be a dirt bike. I get it.

Again, valuable insight for viewers, thanks! I'm surprised that the T63 tires work so well on- and off-pavement. The Michelin T63 has been superseded and is no longer available. Fortunately, I had stock although the newer Michelin series would be worth a try. I like your comment about mud and wet grass, not the best surface for any tire!

Thanks! If subscribers like this content, I'm glad to create it...

You're very welcome! Thanks for subscribing, too!

Thanks for the feedback and subscriptions...If folks find the sessions worthwhile, I'm glad to put forth the effort!

Many are discovering the XR650L option and building these bikes to the hilt. I shared my concern about XR650R parts availability, and that's not yet an issue with the XR650L. Go for it, and thanks for sharing details!

@@MotorcycleTechandTravel there not bringing the big red lady to Australia its a shame i would love too get my paws on one and go to town 😎

Ah, surprised the XR650L is not offered in the Australian market. They did offer the XR650R in dual-sport form at Australia, the envy of U.S. riders who could only get the off-road enduro model. Is Australia mandating EFI and ABS like the European countries? The XR650L is still carbureted and without ABS at the U.S.

Me, too, on both counts. Let's work on that...Thanks for the subscriptions!

Bore and stroke near that of a vintage 327 Corvette V8. (The XR650R bore is only 0.060" less than the 4" 327 bore; the stroke is identical.) 1/8th the cylinders, 1/10th the curb weight (310 pounds with oversized fuel tank and ride ready). I'm making, conservatively, 62 horsepower at the crankshaft with a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft, uncorked and the stock Keihin PE carburetor. The 4-barrel carbureted '62 327 made an advertised 300 horsepower on an engine dynamometer. So, at a bit over 1/5th the horsepower and only 1/10th the curb weight, the XR650R's power-to-weight ratio, as you say, "rips" at five pounds per horsepower! (Even if rear wheel horsepower were only 55, that's still only 5.63636... pounds per horsepower!) 62 peak horsepower plus strong bottom and mid-range power make these thumpers "pull" differently than a high horsepower ADV twin. Yep, this is power to be respected.

well they bring back the KX 500 this year, probably they will bring back a new red beast !

Great idea!

The XR650L has great features and factory electrics, including starting and full lighting. To your point, there were Australian and European iterations of the XR650R in street legal dual-sport form (without rear seating), so Honda did have the formula. In a fair comparison, the XR650L reflects legacy engines like the earlier XRs and the XR600R. A tubular steel frame was used on all R models until the XR650R, and Honda won two Baja years (1997-98) with the XR600R. I'm partial to the XR650R, largely for its purpose-built hardcore enduro design; however, many riders enjoy and upgrade the XR650L to tackle reasonably hard trails plus pavement. One distinct advantage you have with your XR650L is parts availability. The XR650R's last year of production was 2007, and that translates to a gradual decline in OEM replacement parts. I'm stocking up!

I'll watch for an XR400R! Great ride along Foothill Road and through Jacks Valley. The Carson Valley lanes bring back memories, and 88 leads to Hope Valley and Carson Pass. Watch the traffic these days! When I grew up at Gardnerville, there were less than 1,200 people in the entire valley, today over 30,000. Let's avoid the commuting hours on 395 and Main Street through Gardnerville!

You're welcome! Let us know what you discover...Thanks for subscribing!

Pleased that it was valuable...More to come...Thanks for subscribing!