This video was very helpful, I was almost going to use dap 33 latex caulk due to the dry time of the putty, but painting immediately that’s a game changer. Thanks you!
This is very helpful. I especially appreciate the clear step-by-step format of explanation. Thank you so much for sharing! I am nervous but excited to begin the process of restoring and protecting my beautiful original windows.
I don't know how I missed your comment! Hope you've had a chance to get started on your window restoration project. My advice for those new to the process are always be kind to yourself as it is a skillset that improves with time. Your first window will not be as beautiful as the last one you finish. Good luck and reach out via info@earthandflax.com anytime.
Great to hear you enjoyed. Yes, most materials are solvent-free, petrochemical-free, and breathable. The Viking Paint has a small percentage paraffin in the formulation - same as used in many soap products - sp not 100% petrochemical free. We have a 100% petrochemical free brand of paint as well (Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint). Let me know if any additional questions come up and reach us at info@earthandflax.com.
Thank you for your very informative video. I am in the process of restoring 120 year old sliding sash windows and was curious as to your thoughts as to the use of wood hardeners (for any soft wood) or a general application of wood preservative prior to applying linseed oil paint. Is it a no, no or recommended? The linseed oil paint I have recommends the first coat be diluted with a raw linseed oil, balsam turpentine mix. The timber has already been stripped back to wood using an infrared heater.
I have the same question too as I have been considering wood epoxy and other hardeners. However I still would like to prioritize traditional preservation methods.
Thank you so much for the instructive video. Is Viking linseed oil paint only for the exterior? Can I also use Viking on the window interior as well as the exterior?
We recommend the Viking for exterior only as that is what it was formulated for. The Ottosson is an excellent interior/exterior Linseed Oil Paint and application would be very similar to this video. We hope to make a Ottosson window restoration specific video soon but until then the only big difference would be instead of applying the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil to "prime" the wood sash, Ottosson recommends a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil as a "primer" coat on the bare wood sash. Once dry, finish with 2 undiluted coats of Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint. No need to "prime" the LO Putty. You want at least 2-3 coats of undiluted Linseed Oil Paint on the putty and don't forget to paint at least 1/16-1/8 onto the glass. Hope this is helpful! I see your questions on our info@earthandflax.com email and responded there as well.
What do you call the scored wire you're twisting off to make pins? It looks quite convenient for when the gap is too great for push pins, which along with sprigs are what we use in the UK. I've not come across your method before, but would be keen to try it.
We call them "Euro pins" since they are more common in Europe than North America. Simple copper glazing points with convenient compressions so they easily snap off when installed. The downside is that they can be a bit too long for many glazing grooves so must be bent down before glazing. We carry them on our website (under window restoration supplies) but they are imported from Sweden. You can probably get better shipping options buying direct from a Scandinavian shop. Hope this is helpful and feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
You do an excellent job of presenting your products, I have some questions regarding the compatibility of paints other than linseed oil based paints with the linseed oil based putty. As you know conventional glazings have excessive cure times before painting but seal against moisture very well, the linseed putty requires paint to seal are any of the paints other than linseed oil pants compatible? I really like using linseed oil products, however I would like a much greater color selection in the paints, I also like not having to prime with linseed oil paints .
Great to hear you’ve found the content interesting/helpful. In theory, yes, you can use conventional paints with the Linseed Oil Putty but you would have to wait for it to fully cure just like most conventional glazing products. The big time saver, as well as the best combination in terms of material compatibility, is to paint immediately with Linseed Oil Paint. We have more and more folks custom mixing colors to achieve whatever they are looking for. Cannot compete with the range of chemical dyes in modern coatings but still, so many possibilities exist! We are just building out some color consult options on our website as well. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Shellac is a commercial resin marketed in the form of amber flakes, made from the secretions of the lac insect. Shellac is often used as a traditional furniture finish for example.
![Window Restoration w/Allback Linseed Oil Products: Part 2 [Full]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zpJhVnc9zTE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Window Restoration w/Allback Linseed Oil Products: Part 2 [Full]](/img/tr.png)
This video was very helpful, I was almost going to use dap 33 latex caulk due to the dry time of the putty, but painting immediately that’s a game changer. Thanks you!
This is very helpful. I especially appreciate the clear step-by-step format of explanation. Thank you so much for sharing! I am nervous but excited to begin the process of restoring and protecting my beautiful original windows.
I don't know how I missed your comment! Hope you've had a chance to get started on your window restoration project. My advice for those new to the process are always be kind to yourself as it is a skillset that improves with time. Your first window will not be as beautiful as the last one you finish. Good luck and reach out via info@earthandflax.com anytime.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thank you so much! Great advice. We had to push most of the project out until spring, but I'm looking forward to getting started!
Great video. So many people don't seem to use the right products. This stuff is all 'breathable' / microporous I assume?
Great to hear you enjoyed. Yes, most materials are solvent-free, petrochemical-free, and breathable. The Viking Paint has a small percentage paraffin in the formulation - same as used in many soap products - sp not 100% petrochemical free. We have a 100% petrochemical free brand of paint as well (Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint). Let me know if any additional questions come up and reach us at info@earthandflax.com.
Thank you for your very informative video. I am in the process of restoring 120 year old sliding sash windows and was curious as to your thoughts as to the use of wood hardeners (for any soft wood) or a general application of wood preservative prior to applying linseed oil paint. Is it a no, no or recommended? The linseed oil paint I have recommends the first coat be diluted with a raw linseed oil, balsam turpentine mix. The timber has already been stripped back to wood using an infrared heater.
I have the same question too as I have been considering wood epoxy and other hardeners. However I still would like to prioritize traditional preservation methods.
Thank you so much for the instructive video. Is Viking linseed oil paint only for the exterior? Can I also use Viking on the window interior as well as the exterior?
We recommend the Viking for exterior only as that is what it was formulated for. The Ottosson is an excellent interior/exterior Linseed Oil Paint and application would be very similar to this video. We hope to make a Ottosson window restoration specific video soon but until then the only big difference would be instead of applying the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil to "prime" the wood sash, Ottosson recommends a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil as a "primer" coat on the bare wood sash. Once dry, finish with 2 undiluted coats of Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint. No need to "prime" the LO Putty. You want at least 2-3 coats of undiluted Linseed Oil Paint on the putty and don't forget to paint at least 1/16-1/8 onto the glass. Hope this is helpful! I see your questions on our info@earthandflax.com email and responded there as well.
What do you call the scored wire you're twisting off to make pins? It looks quite convenient for when the gap is too great for push pins, which along with sprigs are what we use in the UK. I've not come across your method before, but would be keen to try it.
We call them "Euro pins" since they are more common in Europe than North America. Simple copper glazing points with convenient compressions so they easily snap off when installed. The downside is that they can be a bit too long for many glazing grooves so must be bent down before glazing. We carry them on our website (under window restoration supplies) but they are imported from Sweden. You can probably get better shipping options buying direct from a Scandinavian shop. Hope this is helpful and feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com anytime.
You do an excellent job of presenting your products, I have some questions regarding the compatibility of paints other than linseed oil based paints with the linseed oil based putty. As you know conventional glazings have excessive cure times before painting but seal against moisture very well, the linseed putty requires paint to seal are any of the paints other than linseed oil pants compatible? I really like using linseed oil products, however I would like a much greater color selection in the paints, I also like not having to prime with linseed oil paints .
Great to hear you’ve found the content interesting/helpful.
In theory, yes, you can use conventional paints with the Linseed Oil Putty but you would have to wait for it to fully cure just like most conventional glazing products. The big time saver, as well as the best combination in terms of material compatibility, is to paint immediately with Linseed Oil Paint.
We have more and more folks custom mixing colors to achieve whatever they are looking for. Cannot compete with the range of chemical dyes in modern coatings but still, so many possibilities exist! We are just building out some color consult options on our website as well. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
what is a "schleck" ?
Shellac is a commercial resin marketed in the form of amber flakes, made from the secretions of the lac insect. Shellac is often used as a traditional furniture finish for example.
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