Great to hear the video was clearly presented! Let us know if you have received follow-up on your projects. We are back in the office today, catching up after the holiday break.
I wanted to paint our stairs in white, did a couple of tests with linseed oil paste and boiled as well as sun-thickened linseed oil, but the issue I kept having is the yellowing of the white paint. It's not massive with these cleaned linseed oils, but it is noticeable with white paint. Doing some (or rather more) research found that this is a recurring problem with linseed oil based paints. I love linseed oil, I even pressed my own, washed it and cleaned it and bleached it in the sun (thickened). I haven't found a way to process is, so it doesn't yellow. Do you have a professional solution for that, or do we just have to live with this attribute of linseed oil based paints?
Yes, linseed oil can definitely yellow with time if there is no natural light. A linseed oil painted white staircase that is exposed to natural light should really not yellow in any substantial way but if it is a dark stairwell with no windows, etc. that can be expected to yellow. As you point out, this is only a factor for white pigments. Many white modern coatings will eventually yellow as well over time as the stabilizers breakdown (seen most quickly I’ve found in glues/adhesives/sealers). Since it sounds like you are making your own oils/paints, which is very cool, you can probably experiment with the type of white pigments/zinc you use if you are seeing yellowing occur in a sunny space. Another trick is to add just a little bit of a darker pigment to offset any natural yellowing that can occur, creating a small difference in the white shade that would not be very obvious to the human eye. I just did trim in a walk-in closet (no windows) and added a little gray paint to my Ottosson White Cream to prevent yellowing in that space. Hope this is helpful and offers some ideas as you experiment. Reach out if you have any additional questions!
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks, that is a good idea. So far I've used titanium white pigment based paste, which had 10% zinc. Maybe I could offset the yellowing, by adding the tiniest bit of a blue pigment, that is complementary to the yellowing color, to truly get rid of the yellowed color. Mh... I'll experiment :D - Thanks again.
Linseed oil will always yellow, painters will use poppyseed oil to avoid this with their paint. Poppyseed oil is much more expensive, however it's the best oil to use for bright colors that one doesn't want to yellow over time.
The Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil is solvent-free. It is a heated, polymerizing oil made from food-grade flax oil, treated with a small percentage of a natural drying agent (most Swedish manufacturers use a manganese or a cobalt drier that burns off in the heating process). "Pure" linseed oil can mean many things so we try to use the term purified, degummed, and/or cleaned to signify that the food value in the flax oil has been removed before processing - an important factor when creating architectural-grade finishes.
You are using “pure” to mean “purified”, I’m still not convinced that the presence of metallic drying agents makes it “pure”, but… It doesn’t make your products any less attractive to me!
@@jackjmaheriii Pure is a confusing term as a truly “pure” unprocessed linseed oil would really be a flax oil. Some processing needs to occur and so the closest to pure or the simplest linseed oil option would be the Viking brand of Purified Linseed Oil. It is made from food-grade flax oil, naturally “purified” or “degummed” to remove the food value that can cause mold/mildew growth, and heated to create a pale, drying linseed oil with no natural/synthetic driers or other additives. A really lovely oil and definitely the “purest” we have come across. It is also made in America. The drying agents using in the heating process creates a truly “boiled” faster drying oil that is generally considered necessary to create the larger molecular structure needed for making an effective Linseed Oil Paint. The Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint is made with the Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil. Still very far from the hazards of modern coating or complex petrochemical formulations. Hope this is interesting/helpful!
We tried to get a few good close-ups but checked the walk-through video where we discuss all the finishes for this room. See link below. All standard Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint colors will achieve a semi-gloss finish that will matte out over time. We do have a few matte interior options for drywall/plaster walls as well. Hope this is helpful. th-cam.com/video/IMZQ4osTnZY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PPUt7ecf75bp9qJU
The upper portion is painted drywall and the bottom portion is wood paneling or wainscoting. The wood filler would be for imperfections in the wood paneling before painting. Hope this is helpful.
We haven't seen any trends here in the USA to show interaction or premature failure problems with the combo over the last 5-6 years we've been importing both. What has been your experience so far?
Denatured alcohol is quite caustic but just the most typical option used to dissolve shellac flakes. You can also use high proof grain alcohol to dissolve the shellac for a healthier option. 200% proof or close would be ideal and it may take a few more hrs to effectively dissolve.
@@Earthandflaxstudio I have no problem with denatured alcohol, it was just that in the video you were talking about the paint being solvent free and then start talking about denatured alcohol. Solvents are necessary for getting a good finish with linseed oil paints, by the way, I recommend Balsam Turpentine rather than alcohols as a solvent, the solubility of linseed oil in alcohol is extremely low and alcohol evaporates slowly, so you end up with extremely slow drying paint when you use alcohols as solvents in linseed oil paint. Balsam Turpentine is a natural extract sourced from the sap of pine trees. When you prime wood you should use the balsam turpentine solvent to get a quite thin paint, it will draw into the wood a lot better and give you better adhesion of the paint, and a more even finish.
Hello, how are you? I hope you are well. My name is Jamal and I live in Morocco. I have more than eight years of experience. I work in the field of wood paints and wood dyeing. If you have a job opportunity, I am looking for it. I wish you a happy day.
In ideal conditions, 60+ degree temps and with good air circulation, 48 hrs between coats is typical. Ambient temps or other factors, such as wood species or substrate type, can speed or slow dry time so always ensure each coat is fully dry before applying the next coat. Run a hand along the surface is usually enough to tell if it is "fully" dry. Ensure relatively thin, even coats. Mix the paint well before each use. Be sure to research best practices for the Linseed Oil Paint brand you are using. This video shows the Ottosson brand of Linseed Oil Paint and we have application suggestions/product details on our website if interested. Hope this is helpful!
Beautiful Natalie!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed!!!
Great info! Thx for sharing !!
Great to hear! Thank you for watching.
Nice clear explanation. I have Emailed you about some outdoor application questions.
Great to hear the video was clearly presented! Let us know if you have received follow-up on your projects. We are back in the office today, catching up after the holiday break.
I wanted to paint our stairs in white, did a couple of tests with linseed oil paste and boiled as well as sun-thickened linseed oil, but the issue I kept having is the yellowing of the white paint. It's not massive with these cleaned linseed oils, but it is noticeable with white paint. Doing some (or rather more) research found that this is a recurring problem with linseed oil based paints. I love linseed oil, I even pressed my own, washed it and cleaned it and bleached it in the sun (thickened). I haven't found a way to process is, so it doesn't yellow. Do you have a professional solution for that, or do we just have to live with this attribute of linseed oil based paints?
Yes, linseed oil can definitely yellow with time if there is no natural light. A linseed oil painted white staircase that is exposed to natural light should really not yellow in any substantial way but if it is a dark stairwell with no windows, etc. that can be expected to yellow. As you point out, this is only a factor for white pigments. Many white modern coatings will eventually yellow as well over time as the stabilizers breakdown (seen most quickly I’ve found in glues/adhesives/sealers). Since it sounds like you are making your own oils/paints, which is very cool, you can probably experiment with the type of white pigments/zinc you use if you are seeing yellowing occur in a sunny space.
Another trick is to add just a little bit of a darker pigment to offset any natural yellowing that can occur, creating a small difference in the white shade that would not be very obvious to the human eye. I just did trim in a walk-in closet (no windows) and added a little gray paint to my Ottosson White Cream to prevent yellowing in that space. Hope this is helpful and offers some ideas as you experiment. Reach out if you have any additional questions!
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks, that is a good idea. So far I've used titanium white pigment based paste, which had 10% zinc. Maybe I could offset the yellowing, by adding the tiniest bit of a blue pigment, that is complementary to the yellowing color, to truly get rid of the yellowed color. Mh... I'll experiment :D - Thanks again.
Linseed oil will always yellow, painters will use poppyseed oil to avoid this with their paint. Poppyseed oil is much more expensive, however it's the best oil to use for bright colors that one doesn't want to yellow over time.
Boiled linseed oil definitely has solvents in it. That’s the difference between it, and pure linseed oil.
The Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil is solvent-free. It is a heated, polymerizing oil made from food-grade flax oil, treated with a small percentage of a natural drying agent (most Swedish manufacturers use a manganese or a cobalt drier that burns off in the heating process). "Pure" linseed oil can mean many things so we try to use the term purified, degummed, and/or cleaned to signify that the food value in the flax oil has been removed before processing - an important factor when creating architectural-grade finishes.
You are using “pure” to mean “purified”, I’m still not convinced that the presence of metallic drying agents makes it “pure”, but… It doesn’t make your products any less attractive to me!
@@jackjmaheriii Pure is a confusing term as a truly “pure” unprocessed linseed oil would really be a flax oil. Some processing needs to occur and so the closest to pure or the simplest linseed oil option would be the Viking brand of Purified Linseed Oil. It is made from food-grade flax oil, naturally “purified” or “degummed” to remove the food value that can cause mold/mildew growth, and heated to create a pale, drying linseed oil with no natural/synthetic driers or other additives. A really lovely oil and definitely the “purest” we have come across. It is also made in America. The drying agents using in the heating process creates a truly “boiled” faster drying oil that is generally considered necessary to create the larger molecular structure needed for making an effective Linseed Oil Paint. The Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint is made with the Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil. Still very far from the hazards of modern coating or complex petrochemical formulations. Hope this is interesting/helpful!
Good knowledge. Thanks!
Would be nice if you showed the end result!!! I can’t see the finish - Matt, satin, etc.
We tried to get a few good close-ups but checked the walk-through video where we discuss all the finishes for this room. See link below. All standard Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint colors will achieve a semi-gloss finish that will matte out over time. We do have a few matte interior options for drywall/plaster walls as well. Hope this is helpful.
th-cam.com/video/IMZQ4osTnZY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PPUt7ecf75bp9qJU
Yeah... this dog don't hunt.
Did you just fill drywall with woodfiller? Is that a painted wood wall?
The upper portion is painted drywall and the bottom portion is wood paneling or wainscoting. The wood filler would be for imperfections in the wood paneling before painting. Hope this is helpful.
Have you had any problems with Ottoson Linseed oil paint and Danalim Linseedoil putty?
We haven't seen any trends here in the USA to show interaction or premature failure problems with the combo over the last 5-6 years we've been importing both. What has been your experience so far?
Don't open the can with a screwdriver! It bends and makes the lid harder to close. Use something with a larger surface against the lid edge.
fun fact, denatured alcohol is a solvent
Denatured alcohol is quite caustic but just the most typical option used to dissolve shellac flakes. You can also use high proof grain alcohol to dissolve the shellac for a healthier option. 200% proof or close would be ideal and it may take a few more hrs to effectively dissolve.
@@Earthandflaxstudio I have no problem with denatured alcohol, it was just that in the video you were talking about the paint being solvent free and then start talking about denatured alcohol.
Solvents are necessary for getting a good finish with linseed oil paints, by the way, I recommend Balsam Turpentine rather than alcohols as a solvent, the solubility of linseed oil in alcohol is extremely low and alcohol evaporates slowly, so you end up with extremely slow drying paint when you use alcohols as solvents in linseed oil paint. Balsam Turpentine is a natural extract sourced from the sap of pine trees. When you prime wood you should use the balsam turpentine solvent to get a quite thin paint, it will draw into the wood a lot better and give you better adhesion of the paint, and a more even finish.
Hello, how are you? I hope you are well. My name is Jamal and I live in Morocco. I have more than eight years of experience. I work in the field of wood paints and wood dyeing. If you have a job opportunity, I am looking for it. I wish you a happy day.
You’re not doing anyone a service by omitting knowledge of the time individual coats, take to dry with linseed oil paint
In ideal conditions, 60+ degree temps and with good air circulation, 48 hrs between coats is typical. Ambient temps or other factors, such as wood species or substrate type, can speed or slow dry time so always ensure each coat is fully dry before applying the next coat. Run a hand along the surface is usually enough to tell if it is "fully" dry. Ensure relatively thin, even coats. Mix the paint well before each use. Be sure to research best practices for the Linseed Oil Paint brand you are using. This video shows the Ottosson brand of Linseed Oil Paint and we have application suggestions/product details on our website if interested. Hope this is helpful!