Thanks man, I really appreciate comments like this because I feel like too many people take the "easy way" to do anything. I've done electrical this-and-that my whole life and nothing is worse than having to clean up someone else's mess. Once I get the relay box I'll be able to clean up the mess up front from the previous owner, wrap everything up in loom and run it somewhere like the people who made the vehicles would.
It's a great device, and I like it because I don't have to put random switches in every random spot like everyone else does. I may need more switches at some point but this will work great for now.
I am thinking about getting one of these and I am wondering if since it was hooked directly to the battery if it drained the battery at all because of It does I would wanna get a battery disconnect switch on it
I have power running through. The green wire and the brown wire.... But the machine is turned off. Do you know why this is so? I'm not too familiar with this product
@@StarK12trd no you don’t need to use a relay but you definitely don’t want to exceed each channels rating which I think is 3 amps. If you’re going to run more than 3 amps per channel then yes use a relay or get a relay block.
From Amazon Here is a set of repinning tools, super helpful: amzn.to/33F558E Here is the crimping tool: amzn.to/39KV7pU And here is a box of connectors, I believe these are the same I used, except I order from Canada and I couldn't find the exact thing on .com: amzn.to/2JI20xz Those are affiliate links, and it would help greatly if you purchased them through my links, if you're going to purchase them.
Hi Randomonium, I was wondering what gauge wiring does it use? Also in your opinion, do you think it's possible to run the positive and negative wires directly from the controller to the battery without any problems. And if so, would you need a fused positive wire between the battery and controller and what amp should it be? Thank you
I don't remember what gauge it uses, and not able to really measure it right now. That being said, yes you can hook it directly up to the battery and yes you do need a 20A fuse on that connection. I have one on mine I just forgot to mention it in the video. The controller itself is capable of 3A per channel and there are 6 channels. Definitely hook each output to a relay box, and don't hook up anything directly unless you know it's under 3A.
@@DIYDynamix Ok so I'm a little confused. So your saying that I can run 1 power wire with a 20 amp fuse directly to the the power wire on the control box? Now as I look at the controller of course it has different colored wires. So I would think that I would hook those colored wires to the colored wires on the light bar, or am I missing something? So hook up the power wire from the control box to the battery and the light bar?
@@J_a_y_d_e_n. I’m not sure what you’re asking. Red wire from battery to fuse, then from the fuse to the Feniex for power. Your light bar will only use one of the colored wires from the Feniex.
@@thunderbear0 1) make sure to put a 20A fuse on the main power to the Feniex. 2) each button/channel on the Feniex is capable of handling 3A, so make sure that your lights don’t exceed that per button/channel 3) if possible it would be best to just have each channel activate a relay to turn on the lights instead of hooking up the lights directly to the Feniex.
@@booboobear83 I either had it lying around in my stash, or picked it up from a local electronics supplier. Either way they can be found pretty easily if you search google for a 6 position flat terminal block. Mouser and Digi Key has them, if you have a surplus store near you there's a chance they would carry them if they had an electronics section.
Had to delete my previous comment as I had forgotten that there is in fact a 20A fuse secured in the wiring harness coming from the battery to the Feniex. It’s just wrapped up in the harness/loom and tucked under the dash, and was not shown in this video.
I just purchased the Feniex 4200 mini as well. My goal is to attach some Feniex T3 LED strobes, LED fog lights, and an LED lightbar onto my truck. Your install is very clean and attentive to detail and I can really appreciate that. I am curious what size braided loom you used for the leads exiting the back of the 4200 in thru the dashboard? 1/4" or 1/2"? Also the size weather grommet where the loom passes thru the dash? Also curious what brand of pin connectors you used to attach the power/ground to the battery and the remaining rainbow that extends out to the terminal up by the driver side door. Thank you in advance for any info.
It’s definitely pricey, and they are meant for emergency services mostly so that likely adds to the cost, but it was a solid investment for me. It’s the little stuff like wig wag functionality and being able to configure the buttons as needed. Mainly though I feel this looks much better in the truck than banks of switches, and doesn’t take up valuable space like the cubby below the radio. Not much space in these 3rd gen Dodges.
Just so you know… Feniex is horrible. Pretty much all law enforcement and fire rescue agency’s use SoundOff, Whelen, Federal Signal, or Code 3. Feniex is not as bright, weather-resistant, and reliable as the companies I just named. Feniex is mostly used by security companies and volunteer firefighter on a low budget (or thinking they are good). Fenix is fine but just not good for real first responders. But great job installing everything.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Incredible wiring. So happy to see people doing it right.
Thanks man, I really appreciate comments like this because I feel like too many people take the "easy way" to do anything.
I've done electrical this-and-that my whole life and nothing is worse than having to clean up someone else's mess.
Once I get the relay box I'll be able to clean up the mess up front from the previous owner, wrap everything up in loom and run it somewhere like the people who made the vehicles would.
wow, so clean... this gives me inspiration to wire my new feniex. I'm mounting Rigid Chase lights on my buggy
Amazing install!!!
Thanks. I try my best :)
Well done
Very nice. Looks like an upfitter did that inside the cab
I love mine I use it for my volunteer firefighter blue lights it’s easy and simple to use plus it doesn’t take up that much space
It's a great device, and I like it because I don't have to put random switches in every random spot like everyone else does.
I may need more switches at some point but this will work great for now.
@@DIYDynamix agreed and I liked the plug setup you have on yours wish I had that installed on mine
Which connector did you use?
Hi where did you get the connector? And the one that holds the color coded on the side
I just used these connectors from Amazon, (Ad)amzn.to/49Rx9Vr
And these pliers to crimp the pins to the wires
amzn.to/3xZr7oM
I am thinking about getting one of these and I am wondering if since it was hooked directly to the battery if it drained the battery at all because of It does I would wanna get a battery disconnect switch on it
It has never drained my battery. Don’t forgot to fuse it though. I forgot to show it in this video but there is a fuse on the main power to the feniex
I have power running through. The green wire and the brown wire.... But the machine is turned off. Do you know why this is so? I'm not too familiar with this product
Thanks this is very helpful 👌👌 great video to
Thanks man, glad it was helpful for you.
Quick question wasn’t the lead power wire for Feniex 4200 supposed to be fused at 20A when connected to the battery?
It is fused, I just forgot to mention that in the video. I have a 20A online fuse tucked into the wiring harness I made up.
@@DIYDynamix and also for each button on the 4200 does need to use relay connected to the switch wire?
@@StarK12trd no you don’t need to use a relay but you definitely don’t want to exceed each channels rating which I think is 3 amps.
If you’re going to run more than 3 amps per channel then yes use a relay or get a relay block.
Super clean bud, what is the name of the connecters or where do you get them?
I don't actually know the connector name, but check the description, I linked to the ones I used.
Where did you get that connection piece for the wiring out of the back of the controller?
From Amazon
Here is a set of repinning tools, super helpful: amzn.to/33F558E
Here is the crimping tool: amzn.to/39KV7pU
And here is a box of connectors, I believe these are the same I used, except I order from Canada and I couldn't find the exact thing on .com: amzn.to/2JI20xz
Those are affiliate links, and it would help greatly if you purchased them through my links, if you're going to purchase them.
Hi Randomonium, I was wondering what gauge wiring does it use? Also in your opinion, do you think it's possible to run the positive and negative wires directly from the controller to the battery without any problems. And if so, would you need a fused positive wire between the battery and controller and what amp should it be? Thank you
I don't remember what gauge it uses, and not able to really measure it right now.
That being said, yes you can hook it directly up to the battery and yes you do need a 20A fuse on that connection. I have one on mine I just forgot to mention it in the video.
The controller itself is capable of 3A per channel and there are 6 channels.
Definitely hook each output to a relay box, and don't hook up anything directly unless you know it's under 3A.
@@DIYDynamix Ok so I'm a little confused. So your saying that I can run 1 power wire with a 20 amp fuse directly to the the power wire on the control box? Now as I look at the controller of course it has different colored wires. So I would think that I would hook those colored wires to the colored wires on the light bar, or am I missing something? So hook up the power wire from the control box to the battery and the light bar?
@@J_a_y_d_e_n. I’m not sure what you’re asking.
Red wire from battery to fuse, then from the fuse to the Feniex for power.
Your light bar will only use one of the colored wires from the Feniex.
@@thunderbear0 1) make sure to put a 20A fuse on the main power to the Feniex.
2) each button/channel on the Feniex is capable of handling 3A, so make sure that your lights don’t exceed that per button/channel
3) if possible it would be best to just have each channel activate a relay to turn on the lights instead of hooking up the lights directly to the Feniex.
What relay is recommended for lights? How can one connect a siren to it different tones?
Where did you get the black piece that actually on the side of the dash (where you are connecting your wires)? What is that called?
I think you’re referring to the terminal block....the piece with the screws that’s inside the cover on the left?
@@DIYDynamix yes the terminal block. Where did you get that?
@@booboobear83 I either had it lying around in my stash, or picked it up from a local electronics supplier. Either way they can be found pretty easily if you search google for a 6 position flat terminal block. Mouser and Digi Key has them, if you have a surplus store near you there's a chance they would carry them if they had an electronics section.
@randomonium did you run into an issue where all your lights function independently but when you try powering them all on together they shut off ?
I currently only have lights hooked up to button 1 so there’s nothing else to run if I turn all of the buttons on.
hey,do you have delay when using the 4200 Mini with Feniex Stormpro?
I don’t use a stormpro
Yet one main thing was missed the 20amp inline fuse between the mini and battery…..
Had to delete my previous comment as I had forgotten that there is in fact a 20A fuse secured in the wiring harness coming from the battery to the Feniex. It’s just wrapped up in the harness/loom and tucked under the dash, and was not shown in this video.
I just purchased the Feniex 4200 mini as well. My goal is to attach some Feniex T3 LED strobes, LED fog lights, and an LED lightbar onto my truck. Your install is very clean and attentive to detail and I can really appreciate that. I am curious what size braided loom you used for the leads exiting the back of the 4200 in thru the dashboard? 1/4" or 1/2"? Also the size weather grommet where the loom passes thru the dash? Also curious what brand of pin connectors you used to attach the power/ground to the battery and the remaining rainbow that extends out to the terminal up by the driver side door. Thank you in advance for any info.
The loom would be 1/4”, as for the grommet I don’t remember, I just had it on hand and drilled the hole whatever size it needed to be snug.
Did u run a relay box to
I’ll be adding a relay box at some point this spring/summer
I’ll be adding a relay box at some point this spring/summer
A relay Is not need for these systems They use a solid state relay system
They only handle 3A per channel. Many lights can draw more than that and a relay should be used.
Yeah I'm not buying a 120$ switchbox
It’s definitely pricey, and they are meant for emergency services mostly so that likely adds to the cost, but it was a solid investment for me.
It’s the little stuff like wig wag functionality and being able to configure the buttons as needed.
Mainly though I feel this looks much better in the truck than banks of switches, and doesn’t take up valuable space like the cubby below the radio.
Not much space in these 3rd gen Dodges.
Just so you know… Feniex is horrible. Pretty much all law enforcement and fire rescue agency’s use SoundOff, Whelen, Federal Signal, or Code 3. Feniex is not as bright, weather-resistant, and reliable as the companies I just named. Feniex is mostly used by security companies and volunteer firefighter on a low budget (or thinking they are good). Fenix is fine but just not good for real first responders. But great job installing everything.
so volunteer firefighters aren't real first responders that's kind of fucked up