Love no mistakes were edited out. Been in the building trade for 34 years and still everyday is a school day! Well done guys! Got a bit bored with the standard blogs but again hooked!
Okay so the sparks always get praise, it's well deserved too. I have to say though the camera work and editing is great. The dual angle for Jordan's narrative shots were a great touch. It all builds up to make everything entertaining and engaging. Nice one artisan 🤜🏻
With the data points you don't need the separate back boxes for each one - you can put two Euro modules on a one gang face plate or you can even get a plate with 3x RJ45 sockets on it for future proofing. Just make sure you use a deep enough box so that you can achieve the minimum bend radius for the cable.
Great work 👌🏻 the panel you take down is called a register plate. and the flu is a twin wall system allowing as little as 50mm away from combustibles !! So no dramas atall running cable through the void . Team artisan smashing it as always
Jordan 2 things: - that switch looks like is an unmanaged one from TP-LINK. The cable that comes from the main router in the house should go into the 5th port since is the uplink. The others go to the remaining ones. - The way that switch is build it have ventilation on the sides. As it is currently mounted, hot air rises and you just covered the ventilation holes by mounting it touching the subpanel. Give it at least 15cm between the subpanel case and the switch. Also that switch is an indoor type one, and although it is indoor that small room will have a lot of humidity. The PCB of the Switch don't have conformal coating so any condensation inside may fry it. Ideally you should get a proper model for that kind of application, an outdoor one or put the Switch inside a IP65/67 box, mounted on the centre of the box with a all around space of 15cm from the sides of the Switch to the sides of the box, with glands to the incoming cables. Also you could mount the plug for the switch inside the box too.
frankly I'd cable the cat5s directly into the switch. I agree its not rated for outdoors but it is dry (ish) and will get parasitic warmth from the inverter and mostly the boiler next door. I use one in my loft, and its mounted above the combi boiler cupboard for just this reason.
If you put the switch in a IP 65/67 box would it not overheat above its optimal heating range? Good comment tho about the pcb & outdoor. It may be worth almost hermetically sealing the room & having an extractor for any over temp +25° to exhaust from the room that should hopefully sort the humidity problem.
@@HogwartsBasement no because they just need some volume of air around them to coll down. An unmanaged switch get hot but not that hot. There isn't any smart programming you can do (routing rules, firewalls, Vlans, etc) so they basically don't have very powerful MPUs. But still need some volume of air for cooling by convection (no air movement needed). A IP65/67 big enough for both the switch and a power plug have enough volume of air inside to allow the normal rise of hot air, that later with time cools down and goes down without warming that volume of air too much to make the switch work outside of their temperature range. Yes some air circulation could in theory negate the condensation problem. The inverter and battery bank are ok, since they have large casings around with rubber gaskets and the PCB is coated for sure. That room will get hot because of those equipments working. My problem will be when it cools down and dew point temperature makes condensation to happen (that flimsy wood door is basically useless for any room insulation).
@@lua-nya the cable they used is OK. It is cat5E but rated to outdoor use. Shield cable is only advantageous in situations as in a cable rack of a factory were you have tons of feeds for machines, some with VFDs who will introduce signal noise, and even in those cases there is a regulation on how they should be far apart from the electrical cables.
Love the banter you guys have, makes for a happy working day. I can't comment on your work, only too say all you jobs . Are extremely well worked out and planned, making for a excellent job.
Hey, love your videos. Glad to see you take PPE seriously, especially with hearing and eye protection. Coming from a background of electrical/construction, I see far too many people ignoring this and risking loss of hearing, eye damage, or worse.
Why use 1 gang boxes for separate RJ45 (data) connections? Something like the CCS4000 outlet (4 port) or even a two module single gang faceplate would double your density...
it will easily be exceeding 90 degrees above that check plate of the wood burner if it’s used for any length of time it’s also still classed as a chimney behind the check plate in building regulations
Great video, just 2 questions... why the extra cat 5, I thought the EV plus cable contains a screened cat5 or cat6 Also why SWA if its running through a duct 😁
My experience, now a few decades in the past, with drilling to hang metal conduit, was dependent on the age and condition of the masonry. Older buildings tended to have soft mortar, and very hard bricks. I only drilled the mortar, or course, for light loads, or for very short runs. Never drilled mortar on cinder block walls, the mortar seemed to be so soft it would not support even the plastic anchor.
I drill the course as it has lime in it, or should have, to allow for movement. If you drill into the brick you can make the brick the weak point and not the mortar. Ask any brickie
Good video Jordan, why are you wearing my jacket? Glad I made the video(Dean off of Torville & Dean). If I'm clipping to brick I always run the cable at the mortar and drill /clip nto the mortar every 2 bricks.
I'm curious, have building regulations,kept up with energy storage units? if you fitted a battery pack in a garage with a bedroom about what level of fire protection would you have to install compared to an ordinary garage?
Good decision to remove damaged section of the cable. I don't think heat shrink is going to help because water can eventually get inside and travel. I had water coming out of two aerial cables* long time ago because it was connected to splitter on the roof! 😳😀 *Yes, water was dripping behind the tv! And no, it's not water cooled cable!
Great work! I recommend drill holes should have a little more space when you put the cable cord into the hole. Easy to pull the cable cord. it will help smooth. I see your drill was too tight. You were trying so hard. Try it next time. Thumbs up! Cheers!
What a fascinating project guys, such a triumph over adversity, well done. Can't wait for the next installment.👍 Oh yeah and congrats on the 150k subs, I've been with you since lockdown one, appreciate your output and the camera work and editing just get better and better.
That's a lot of box(s) for a single data port. It Would be far easier to land in a double Jack and label. Glad that you finally learned about network switches..... Wireless is annoying for permanent stuff in awkward locations probably prone to drop outs and reflections and poor signal strength and oh yah interference.
I would drill the course, of course that can be patched. the brick not so easily sure you can fill it or you can replace the whole brick versus just cramming some mortar back in between the two.
Timely... the public restroom in our local town park was *closed* today... who does that?! Not sure what *beanies* do for rain... I prefer hats with *brims* in those cases... how about the "Artisan 10-Gal. Hat?" ;-)
Hey, where's the rest of the video...? I was looking forward to seeing the neat, finished job. You get me all excited and then leave me hanging! (Lol) At least post a photo of the finished installation please. Thanks.
@@artisanelectrics Wow, A famous person replied to me... :-) Thanks, I will check out your other channels and am looking forward to next Thursday. Thanks again.
do you like the Hilti tools Jordan? they make great gear when it comes to rotary hammers and the like, but I could never get behind their cordless drills. they just don't perform the way I like my tools to
instead of using all the rj45 outlet plates for networking, why not just put rj45 plugs straight on the end of the cables, make them bespoke instead of using face plates and patches
@@Rainbowhockey The shelves on the other side was their own wall. The wall the kit was hung on would have been the flank wall of next doors house! If it were my house I'd have been livid!
19:41 As a network data guy please keep the data stuff as far away as practical from AC power please! While it will be fine for this install its best practices to keep it away by a foot or so if practical. Otherwise great job sir. 👍😁🤠
It will be fine if that's proper S/FTP cable in good condition, but I agree separating is a good idea. I just hope the cable is better than the talking suggests.
using the course for fixings is totally dependant on the original mix and solidity, if it's crumbly and hollow don't use it. The first couple of drill tests should let you know if it's OK.
I would want to get some temperature readings in that void before putting the cable through as there will be a fair bit of conduction and convection going on with that type of set up. Gut instinct says it's probably OK, but that doesn't cut it when it comes to safety.
I got tradify. It seems abit to complicated and to indepth for my company at the moment. I'm just waiting to do there training for it which might help.
An exceptional video! In particular, I liked the little aside on the vapourer moth - perhaps you could do a regular feature on invertebrates you find in your work. Also, congrats on the150 k subs - well deserved, of course.
@@lua-nya In industrial use power and data are run together all the time with no issues, combined power and data cables and connectors have existed for years, it's complete bollocks.
Gents. Another excellent video but whilst I've seen you run in network cables before, I'm really twitchy about you installing network switches. You hammer DIY sparkies but thinks it's ok to DIY data?!? We need to chat... Chris (an old, networking guy with a recent L2 C&G sparky cert so sort of qualified in neither!!)
A £9k investment takes 3 years currently to pay for itself, due to the Kwh unit charges.........Less in the future as the cost is only going to increase annually.
A 5kW array in the North West South by south west facing with 5kWh battery has generated 4000kWh so far this year. We use nearly 95% of this At 25p per kWh the maths are easy. Payback estimated at 10 years, on . But with rates going up and up I expect 6 to 7 years to recover my investment. Another way to view this is where else can you get a reliable 9% non taxed interest rate.
Today's Video Sponsor: TRADIFY - get 50% off your first three months with TRADIFY using our code "artisan" here: bit.ly/3BNdfvM
Love no mistakes were edited out. Been in the building trade for 34 years and still everyday is a school day! Well done guys! Got a bit bored with the standard blogs but again hooked!
Great to hear Jason! More to come very soon!
@@artisanelectrics Brilliant!
Okay so the sparks always get praise, it's well deserved too.
I have to say though the camera work and editing is great. The dual angle for Jordan's narrative shots were a great touch. It all builds up to make everything entertaining and engaging. Nice one artisan 🤜🏻
Thanks for the appreciation Terry! Glad you enjoyed this episode 🤛🏼
With the data points you don't need the separate back boxes for each one - you can put two Euro modules on a one gang face plate or you can even get a plate with 3x RJ45 sockets on it for future proofing. Just make sure you use a deep enough box so that you can achieve the minimum bend radius for the cable.
5:11 Great reference from Ruben. Video brink me such joy.
Great work 👌🏻 the panel you take down is called a register plate. and the flu is a twin wall system allowing as little as 50mm away from combustibles !! So no dramas atall running cable through the void . Team artisan smashing it as always
Jordan 2 things:
- that switch looks like is an unmanaged one from TP-LINK. The cable that comes from the main router in the house should go into the 5th port since is the uplink. The others go to the remaining ones.
- The way that switch is build it have ventilation on the sides. As it is currently mounted, hot air rises and you just covered the ventilation holes by mounting it touching the subpanel. Give it at least 15cm between the subpanel case and the switch.
Also that switch is an indoor type one, and although it is indoor that small room will have a lot of humidity. The PCB of the Switch don't have conformal coating so any condensation inside may fry it.
Ideally you should get a proper model for that kind of application, an outdoor one or put the Switch inside a IP65/67 box, mounted on the centre of the box with a all around space of 15cm from the sides of the Switch to the sides of the box, with glands to the incoming cables.
Also you could mount the plug for the switch inside the box too.
frankly I'd cable the cat5s directly into the switch. I agree its not rated for outdoors but it is dry (ish) and will get parasitic warmth from the inverter and mostly the boiler next door. I use one in my loft, and its mounted above the combi boiler cupboard for just this reason.
If you put the switch in a IP 65/67 box would it not overheat above its optimal heating range? Good comment tho about the pcb & outdoor. It may be worth almost hermetically sealing the room & having an extractor for any over temp +25° to exhaust from the room that should hopefully sort the humidity problem.
@@HogwartsBasement no because they just need some volume of air around them to coll down.
An unmanaged switch get hot but not that hot. There isn't any smart programming you can do (routing rules, firewalls, Vlans, etc) so they basically don't have very powerful MPUs.
But still need some volume of air for cooling by convection (no air movement needed). A IP65/67 big enough for both the switch and a power plug have enough volume of air inside to allow the normal rise of hot air, that later with time cools down and goes down without warming that volume of air too much to make the switch work outside of their temperature range.
Yes some air circulation could in theory negate the condensation problem. The inverter and battery bank are ok, since they have large casings around with rubber gaskets and the PCB is coated for sure.
That room will get hot because of those equipments working. My problem will be when it cools down and dew point temperature makes condensation to happen (that flimsy wood door is basically useless for any room insulation).
Also I sure hope that's outdoors rated CAT5E S/FTP or better they're using, just CAT5 sounds like a terrible idea.
@@lua-nya the cable they used is OK. It is cat5E but rated to outdoor use. Shield cable is only advantageous in situations as in a cable rack of a factory were you have tons of feeds for machines, some with VFDs who will introduce signal noise, and even in those cases there is a regulation on how they should be far apart from the electrical cables.
I really like u guys work. Super excited
Love the banter you guys have, makes for a happy working day. I can't comment on your work, only too say all you jobs . Are extremely well worked out and planned, making for a excellent job.
Hey, love your videos. Glad to see you take PPE seriously, especially with hearing and eye protection. Coming from a background of electrical/construction, I see far too many people ignoring this and risking loss of hearing, eye damage, or worse.
🤜🤛
0:23 go on Ruben, show us the style! 😎🌧☔
Appreciate the shoutout as always. Glad you're loving Tradify.
Absolutely fantastic well done brilliant electricians you must be very proud of your workmanship I certainly would) 😀
Why use 1 gang boxes for separate RJ45 (data) connections? Something like the CCS4000 outlet (4 port) or even a two module single gang faceplate would double your density...
Here in the US drilling the course is preferred.
Even if it does crumble its a lot easier to replace a little mortar than a cracked brick.
Congrats on 150k Jordan and co...........keep em coming Artisan style..........;)
Great video. One of your best yet. Thanks!
Glad you think so!
Nice to see John coming out if his shell a bit more. He was real straight bloke when he 1st started.
That was awesome one again keep it up cannot wait to see more.👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers! More coming soon.
looking forward to see all the other videos on this install
Congratulations on 150,000 subscribers… 🤟🏽
it will easily be exceeding 90 degrees above that check plate of the wood burner if it’s used for any length of time it’s also still classed as a chimney behind the check plate in building regulations
What is the make of the cable drum runners you are using? Thanks
I always drill through the mortar! Makes life easy and as you say Jordan looks better on the eye.
John just made a big mistake with Rueben, never trust work colleagues with your weaknesses. Especially one trained by Cory.
🤣
🤫😂
Gold!
Cory might have to talk a serious word with his son 😂
I have a confession, i had another job in another life, i worked for Royal Mail 🤣
Great video, just 2 questions... why the extra cat 5, I thought the EV plus cable contains a screened cat5 or cat6
Also why SWA if its running through a duct
😁
Well done fellas
Thanks for the info !
Great job cable gang.
The course can always be filled again in the future whereas the brick can’t but will be a stronger fixing over time.
My experience, now a few decades in the past, with drilling to hang metal conduit, was dependent on the age and condition of the masonry. Older buildings tended to have soft mortar, and very hard bricks. I only drilled the mortar, or course, for light loads, or for very short runs. Never drilled mortar on cinder block walls, the mortar seemed to be so soft it would not support even the plastic anchor.
Great work guys 👍👍👍
Thank you 😀
Thank goodness you're using fireproof boards on that wall I am just so concerned about the mmmmmm brick combusting.
😀Hello from HUNGARY! Nice camera work at the end!
YOU CANT DO THAT, THAT CABLES GOING TO GET HOT!!!
😅😖
What is the backer board you have used to mount all of the equipment on.
I love this channel ❤️
I drill the course as it has lime in it, or should have, to allow for movement. If you drill into the brick you can make the brick the weak point and not the mortar. Ask any brickie
Good video Jordan, why are you wearing my jacket?
Glad I made the video(Dean off of Torville & Dean).
If I'm clipping to brick I always run the cable at the mortar and drill /clip nto the mortar every 2 bricks.
I'm curious, have building regulations,kept up with energy storage units? if you fitted a battery pack in a garage with a bedroom about what level of fire protection would you have to install compared to an ordinary garage?
Good decision to remove damaged section of the cable. I don't think heat shrink is going to help because water can eventually get inside and travel. I had water coming out of two aerial cables* long time ago because it was connected to splitter on the roof! 😳😀
*Yes, water was dripping behind the tv! And no, it's not water cooled cable!
Great work! I recommend drill holes should have a little more space when you put the cable cord into the hole. Easy to pull the cable cord. it will help smooth. I see your drill was too tight. You were trying so hard. Try it next time. Thumbs up! Cheers!
What a fascinating project guys, such a triumph over adversity, well done. Can't wait for the next installment.👍
Oh yeah and congrats on the 150k subs, I've been with you since lockdown one, appreciate your output and the camera work and editing just get better and better.
That's a lot of box(s) for a single data port. It Would be far easier to land in a double Jack and label. Glad that you finally learned about network switches..... Wireless is annoying for permanent stuff in awkward locations probably prone to drop outs and reflections and poor signal strength and oh yah interference.
24:57 Lost the will to live, ironically from a cemetery! 🦇👻 Excellent set work there! 👍
Pun intended 🥹
Sunny Britain 😂😂😂😂
We may not always have electricity (like now) but we have sun ☀️
Hello from South Africa!
What is the cable drum dispenser gizmo ?
As a data enginner who works and installs data cables on the daily, I find it funny when sparks talk about data and ethernet 😂
I would drill the course, of course that can be patched. the brick not so easily sure you can fill it or you can replace the whole brick versus just cramming some mortar back in between the two.
Timely... the public restroom in our local town park was *closed* today... who does that?! Not sure what *beanies* do for rain... I prefer hats with *brims* in those cases... how about the "Artisan 10-Gal. Hat?" ;-)
welcome to my every day life as a solar installer.. costumers always want the inverters at impossible to reach places. cables runs are a nightmare...
Hey, where's the rest of the video...? I was looking forward to seeing the neat, finished job. You get me all excited and then leave me hanging! (Lol) At least post a photo of the finished installation please. Thanks.
H Adam, we post updates over on our social channels. The next part of this video will next Thursday.
@@artisanelectrics Wow, A famous person replied to me... :-) Thanks, I will check out your other channels and am looking forward to next Thursday. Thanks again.
A nice take on the otherwise endless EV charger videos, but I must say, that's a weird layout for a house
do you like the Hilti tools Jordan? they make great gear when it comes to rotary hammers and the like, but I could never get behind their cordless drills. they just don't perform the way I like my tools to
Washing on the line is going to take a while to dry 😂
😂😂
Did anybody put a test on the cable to see if the damage had actually affected it?
doncaster cables! my now home town
Well, you guys certainly earn your money !! Chris. Northampton.
Very enjoyable content. 🙌
Why not use 1 x 47mm dbl back box for the cat cables? You’ll have more room in the back of the box and it’ll look smarter.
Argh, I'm trypophobic too! Glad it's not just me!
instead of using all the rj45 outlet plates for networking, why not just put rj45 plugs straight on the end of the cables, make them bespoke instead of using face plates and patches
As a video guy by trade, your vlogs really are just so well put together.
Just passed me ev course with NAPIT bring on the EV work lol
Great work John was looking like a 90’s Bono with them shades on 😂
Out of interest why the extra network cable? I thought the benefit of EV Ultra cable was not needing a 2nd data cable?
It was for the CT connections needed an extra CAT5
Just one comment. Isn't that next doors wall and should you be using it?
Customer has already mounted shelves to the other wall so I'd say they were just following already established practice.
@@Rainbowhockey The shelves on the other side was their own wall. The wall the kit was hung on would have been the flank wall of next doors house! If it were my house I'd have been livid!
Were you really an Entomologist? What a change of career lol, We got the next Attenborough here
Great video as usual, trousers look comfy - what are they? I'm due an upgrade 🤣
Blåkläder 👌🏼
19:41 As a network data guy please keep the data stuff as far away as practical from AC power please! While it will be fine for this install its best practices to keep it away by a foot or so if practical. Otherwise great job sir. 👍😁🤠
It will be fine if that's proper S/FTP cable in good condition, but I agree separating is a good idea. I just hope the cable is better than the talking suggests.
Interesting, just got a job as a solar o&m engineer..like a tv show
at 6:38 - where are your safety glasses Jordan?
It's passing down and the customer has theor washing out lol
using the course for fixings is totally dependant on the original mix and solidity, if it's crumbly and hollow don't use it. The first couple of drill tests should let you know if it's OK.
Data points why not just use a doable Gang back box and fit four euro data sockets, than fit separate boxes for each
Top joB laDs ….. in the real world yeah it’s difficult, but you Guys make it look easy …
The customer could've pulled in the washing out of yer way, its not like its gonna dry much in that weather ... 🙄😂
Who is psp construction says it on the battery of the hilti @19:22 😂
Back it up Ter! 🤣🤣🤣
we need more bug talk !
Well so tempted to reply about the heat generated by the flues from the wood burner and have you....😂😂😂
You wouldn’t dare 🙀
@@artisanelectrics Not this time, but am watching 😀
I would want to get some temperature readings in that void before putting the cable through as there will be a fair bit of conduction and convection going on with that type of set up. Gut instinct says it's probably OK, but that doesn't cut it when it comes to safety.
I got tradify. It seems abit to complicated and to indepth for my company at the moment. I'm just waiting to do there training for it which might help.
Good laugh seeing Jordan unable to close the door because of the Trunking, has he been watching too many “On the Tools” videos
Washing out on the line in the rain? 🤣
An exceptional video! In particular, I liked the little aside on the vapourer moth - perhaps you could do a regular feature on invertebrates you find in your work.
Also, congrats on the150 k subs - well deserved, of course.
The network stuff should be about 300mm away from power, so it don't interfere.
Complete rubbish.
@@mfx1 it's completely true for non shielded parallel runs.
@@lua-nya In industrial use power and data are run together all the time with no issues, combined power and data cables and connectors have existed for years, it's complete bollocks.
Are you putting a car charger on a fence ?
Isn't that wall you have fitted the fire board to the neighbours wall and not the home owners.
5:26 Stretch the tape as you go less chance of coming off just saying.
I don’t think their washing is going to dry…
☔️
What is going to be talking modbus?
sallam dari pelangganmu di indonesia 🙏🏻
top g
Gents. Another excellent video but whilst I've seen you run in network cables before, I'm really twitchy about you installing network switches. You hammer DIY sparkies but thinks it's ok to DIY data?!? We need to chat... Chris (an old, networking guy with a recent L2 C&G sparky cert so sort of qualified in neither!!)
How efficient is solar power in the UK is it really worth it and how long till the customer makes a profit?
10-15 years atleast considering he will get Battery storage aswell which is expensive
A £9k investment takes 3 years currently to pay for itself, due to the Kwh unit charges.........Less in the future as the cost is only going to increase annually.
A 5kW array in the North West South by south west facing with 5kWh battery has generated 4000kWh so far this year. We use nearly 95% of this At 25p per kWh the maths are easy. Payback estimated at 10 years, on . But with rates going up and up I expect 6 to 7 years to recover my investment. Another way to view this is where else can you get a reliable 9% non taxed interest rate.
Hope you got some help with that stroke you had in the intro, lol
Electrician Work can never be your day job
A „big“ project 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 We‘re installing from 30 -> open end kW systems… mostly 100 kW 😁
Long time viewer
We appreciate you Steven!
Dont breach the dpc with the cement board, you should have start the board above the dpc not on the floor.
Where is your 50% discount Tradify……
Use code Artisan 👌🏼