Thanks sir *Summary: 10x42 10 = 10x optical zoom 42 = 42mm Objective lenses diameter 2nd/1st number (42/10) = exit pupil (lerge number means more light) in nomal light, value 6 is perfect. But if you want to explore night sky you can go as high as possible/you want.* It was just what I need to know
@@GOHUNT Technically, zoom means something else in the world of optics. The number 10 means 'ten times magnification'. Zoom means you can have intermediate magnifications, usually by twisting a belt around the eyepiece or by turning the eyepiece from click detents to other detents. Click, click, click....5 times power, ten times, then 15 times, as general examples. So, the first number means 'power' or magnifying power (ten times) and zoom means you dial up or down how much magnification, or power, you want. Generally, as a tip, zoom binoculars are going to be of poor quality. Good binoculars, not great or prime ones, will have one power only, and cost at least $150, but the better ones run around $300-500. The very best, by Leica and Swarovski, Maven, APM, Nikon, and Fujinon, as examples, cost two to five times that much.
Help me out brotheer I'm i'm trying to buy some monoculars at Amazon so I could look at the stars and move which one do you think I should go 4 also I noticed that they have a few over a $1000 On a price tag and those got hundreds of magnification which numbers should I look at and go for when buying a monocular under a $100 which 1 is the best
I'm a newbie, bought a bino last month i.e 10 X 42 . Love it. Considering buying an astronomical bino 25 X 70 in the future . Thanks for the explanation
"Eye Relief" is the "sweet spot" distance for your eye from the ocular lens. It's important for astronomers. The diopter is for people that have eyes that are a little different. You look through the right side, then adjust the left diopter to match, so you don't get a headache. 15x or more magnification is good for gun scopes, and 8x is better for watching baseball, races, golf, etc.
Diopter is just another measurement scale for magnification. Just like Fahrenheit and Celsius measure the same thing, just using different scales. The diopter adjustment on a pair of binoculars is only on one eye because the magnifying mechanism itself brings the picture into focus for the other eye. The diopter adjustment just makes it where the two eyes have the same focal length. In other words it just accounts for differences in diopter between your two eyes
Ok. So I have what is knows as amblyopia (lazy eye). What do I need to know for this when it comes to choosing binoculars that will be best suited to this condition?
A good effort. For eyeglass wearers with compact binocs, 8x20 10x25, check the eye relief. some are too short to work with glasses. Most larger binocs do not have that problem. Also the power does not just effect the field of view but the apparent steadiness of the image you are looking at. A 7 power image looks much steadier than a 10 power, the size and weight of the binocular may help. The exit pupil for good nigh/low light vison is 7mm. (The standard for night binocs was the 7x50.) The older you get the smaller your eye's pupil will open. This may be more for rifle scopes, but the larger the exit pupil the easier it is to see though the optic as the larger exit pupil will give you a little more "wiggle room" for eye alignment. That dark cresent you see when trying to look though the optic is the missalignment of you eye with the exit pupil. Optics have gotten really good and the "bang for the buck" is orders of magnitude better than decades ago. If you plan on needing binoculars, go with the best you can get as they will serve you well, perhaps for a lifetime, and will reduce eye strain and make using them for long periods of time much easier. The joy of quality remains long after the sting of the price is forgotten. No I do not sell optics, I just dislike trying to use cheap crap that is not worth the effort.
Bigger the objective lens better light gathering capabilities mean better low light vision better early morning late evening viewing only drawback is size and weight especially with good glass oh yeah and cost
Thanks for focusing on the necessary points. My understanding was a bit blurry, but it’s much clearer now! Haha thanks man, great vid and what I needed.
I need something with a fairly wide view but long range and very detailed and accurate representation of what i am seeing, no changing of color or depth of field no distortion. I want a clear image thats not dull.
Exactly the video I was looking for, background music is a bit loud but thanks for the effort and time you put into the vid! I’m looking to purchase a pair of binos for watching college football
Marco, Thanks for the question! We definitely want to make sure you get the pair that suits your needs and fits within your budget so we'd suggest calling in to our optics manager Cody Nelson to get a quick rundown on your options and the features that they encompass. Cody Nelson: Phone - (702)847 -8747 Email - optics@GOHUNT.com At an entry level price tag (around $250) we'd suggest the Vortex Diamondback HD 10x42 or the Leupold BX-2 Alpine 10x42. As you jump to higher price points however, you're going to get a crisper / clearer glass, so we definitely suggest getting in contact with Cody to weigh out the options! Hope we were able to help, don't hesitate to reach out with any additional questions! Have a great trip!
@@GOHUNT , thank you so much for this tip. Nothing compare to search who really hold the knowledge. I really appreciate. Yes, I’m very excited for this trip with my wife . I’m a truck driver, now only locally in Los. Angeles area. No more 48 OTR. Alaska Will be my 50° th state to visit..
1: Magnification does not equal field of view, although, generally speaking, they are connected. 2: You don't mount your binoculars on binoculars, but on mono- or tripods. 3: "Objective" and "ocular" are adjectives that tell exactly what end of the binoculars they should be: objective ("pertaining to the object") toward the object, ocular ("pertaining to the eye") toward the eyes. Actually, that's why camera lenses are called "objectives" in many languages (French, German, Russian ...), the full term being "objective lens" - as opposed to "ocular lens".
Hi Cody, I enjoyed your video. I am trying to figure out how to get binoculars or whatever optical equipment made to get maximum focus at short ranges, five to fifty feet away. I am working in interior aviaries trying to see birds, so there is much less light than outdoors. I don't even know if there is such a thing, do you?
This video is amazing, spectacular, and dare I say "eye" catching? Wow, I had no idea about the numbers or exit pupil, etc. You are an awesome presenter and speaker. Thank you!
All the useful information in one conscise video. Great Job !! Thanks Still I would like to know poro prism vs. other types of binoculars, their pros and cons. may be next time. Thanks
Some good info, but I have problems with some of your info - or lack there of. Your explanation of field-of-view is sadly lacking just by the fact that it should be mentioned that the number you give is at 1000 ft distance. I'm not going to have 300 ft field of view if I'm watching birds that are only 20 yards away. It should be mentioned that the higher the power, the more shaky the image will be for hand-held binoculars. Anything higher than 10 power will likely need a tripod to get a good stable image. It would be useful to mention why there is only one diopter adjustment instead of saying it was covered on another video.
your eye pupil can use about 5 to 5.5 (40 years avg). Optics are critical early and late where exit pupil delivering as much light as your eyes can take in is critical.
I also appreciate the video! I always wanted to understand those numbers! I knew they were needed for view but I didn’t understand how to apply them for my particular needs. Thank you so much👍😊👍
This was a succint, well-put together video. Any recommendations for an everyday binocular? I'm not a hunter etc. I just want a pair for when I'm out at the beach or hiking etc. and want to zoom in. Anyone else reading this who has suggestions, let me know.
The quality of the glass and how long they have been polished along with the lens coating is important because it reduces the amount of light reflected and allows the maximum amount of light to enter. The quality of the lens, meanwhile, ensures the image is aberration free and has better contrast. The best lenses work better in low light conditions as they transmit more light. They also ensure that the colours are not washed out or distorted. Users with spectacles should look for a high eyepoint. The coating on binocular lenses-not just the objective lenses, incidentally-are also an important consideration. In fact, coatings are critical to how well you can see faraway animals through your binoculars. Good lens coatings reduce light reflection off the glass surfaces to further enhance the image. With uncoated lenses, light transmission from objective to ocular lenses might be less than 70%, but good lens coatings can raise that to 95% transmission. Coating categories include: Coated, at least one major optical element has a coating on at least one surface; Fully Coated, all lenses and glass surfaces have a coating layer; Multi-Coated, at least one of the major optical elements has multiple coatings of anti-reflective compounds on at least one surface; and Fully Multi-Coated, all glass surfaces have multiple coatings, resulting in 90-95% light transmission. Binos with fully-multicoated lenses, like the Lecia Trinovid are best option if you can afford them.
@@MrTimjm009 BAK4 is definitely better than BK7. Whatever your price point is, research each pair carefully. There will be at least one model that will stand out from the others.
Having less power means less magnification as well right? If we have eye power problems, then should we adjust the ocular lenses by making it extended or leaving it as it is enough?
Great Question, thanks for reaching out! We relayed the question to our Optics Manager Cody Nelson and this was his response... I would use either a Vortex Diamondback HD 10x42 or 12x50. Or upgrade to the Vortex Viper HD 10x42 or 12x50. I like the 10x's for the brighter image, wider FOV, and being easier to hand hold. But if a little extra magnification is needed the 12x is an excellent all-around performer that would only be a little less stable when hand-held but the image would be larger to bring in more detail. Either one would work well for this task. More than 12x would require a tripod or window mount for more stable viewing. If you have other suggestions please feel free to reach out to optics@gohunt.com
Basically okay, but you should add a few things to your demo: For eyeglass users look for binoculars typically with AT LEAST 18mm of eye relief (22 mm is better), otherwise you get black out. With more light comes much heavier binoculars, often MUCH heavier. I can't think of a reason why anyone walking around with a pair of binoculars needs anything much more than 10X and maybe 43. I you are looking at lenses with 15X56 you are most likely looking for submarines! Birders when they first start should look at 8X30 and once they get good with them maybe move onto 10X42/43. Remember the higher the magnification, the harder it is to find you subject. The larger the objective lens the heavier the binocular. Test first, buy later. You will be walking around with them all day likely.
The only thing I would like to know is , are all binoculars even the old old ones , are they all focused from like a certain footage to infinity or is that only the auto focus binoculars that are set like that ? Oh and what auto focus binoc should I get for star gazing . I used to own a pair that were awesome but have no idea what happened to them . Could you tell me what lenses would be best for that ...Thx
New to this. Just trying to gain a basic knowledge. That 330 foot field of view you mentioned, is that at a set distance? Just trying to figure out how to gauge that a little and how I can use that info relative to a different set of binos
@@GOHUNT ty for the feedback. Will you be able to provide some specs of a binacular that can see the Andromeda galaxy? Tnx in advance and stay safe always.
Thanks sir
*Summary:
10x42
10 = 10x optical zoom
42 = 42mm Objective lenses diameter
2nd/1st number (42/10) = exit pupil (lerge number means more light) in nomal light, value 6 is perfect. But if you want to explore night sky you can go as high as possible/you want.*
It was just what I need to know
Happy to help!
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Best binoculars
@@GOHUNT Technically, zoom means something else in the world of optics. The number 10 means 'ten times magnification'. Zoom means you can have intermediate magnifications, usually by twisting a belt around the eyepiece or by turning the eyepiece from click detents to other detents. Click, click, click....5 times power, ten times, then 15 times, as general examples. So, the first number means 'power' or magnifying power (ten times) and zoom means you dial up or down how much magnification, or power, you want. Generally, as a tip, zoom binoculars are going to be of poor quality. Good binoculars, not great or prime ones, will have one power only, and cost at least $150, but the better ones run around $300-500. The very best, by Leica and Swarovski, Maven, APM, Nikon, and Fujinon, as examples, cost two to five times that much.
Help me out brotheer I'm i'm trying to buy some monoculars at Amazon so I could look at the stars and move which one do you think I should go 4 also I noticed that they have a few over a $1000 On a price tag and those got hundreds of magnification which numbers should I look at and go for when buying a monocular under a $100 which 1 is the best
What astronomy binoculars do you like? I have a 10x50 now and a 25x100
Best, quickest and most useful video on binoculars I’ve seen. Thanks for the great info.
Background music is terrible
Change it then
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you sir
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
Me too
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I'm a newbie, bought a bino last month i.e 10 X 42 . Love it.
Considering buying an astronomical bino 25 X 70 in the future .
Thanks for the explanation
"Eye Relief" is the "sweet spot" distance for your eye from the ocular lens. It's important for astronomers.
The diopter is for people that have eyes that are a little different. You look through the right side, then adjust the left diopter to match, so you don't get a headache.
15x or more magnification is good for gun scopes, and 8x is better for watching baseball, races, golf, etc.
Thanks Tom. That puts it into perspective
Diopter is just another measurement scale for magnification. Just like Fahrenheit and Celsius measure the same thing, just using different scales. The diopter adjustment on a pair of binoculars is only on one eye because the magnifying mechanism itself brings the picture into focus for the other eye. The diopter adjustment just makes it where the two eyes have the same focal length. In other words it just accounts for differences in diopter between your two eyes
I love u kart man ❤
Ok. So I have what is knows as amblyopia (lazy eye). What do I need to know for this when it comes to choosing binoculars that will be best suited to this condition?
Incredible video. I've been hunting for 30 years and never new a lot of the things you clarified, thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Great to hear, appreciate you checking out the video!
Class video
A good effort. For eyeglass wearers with compact binocs, 8x20 10x25, check the eye relief. some are too short to work with glasses. Most larger binocs do not have that problem.
Also the power does not just effect the field of view but the apparent steadiness of the image you are looking at. A 7 power image looks much steadier than a 10 power, the size and weight of the binocular may help.
The exit pupil for good nigh/low light vison is 7mm. (The standard for night binocs was the 7x50.) The older you get the smaller your eye's pupil will open. This may be more for rifle scopes, but the larger the exit pupil the easier it is to see though the optic as the larger exit pupil will give you a little more "wiggle room" for eye alignment. That dark cresent you see when trying to look though the optic is the missalignment of you eye with the exit pupil.
Optics have gotten really good and the "bang for the buck" is orders of magnitude better than decades ago. If you plan on needing binoculars, go with the best you can get as they will serve you well, perhaps for a lifetime, and will reduce eye strain and make using them for long periods of time much easier.
The joy of quality remains long after the sting of the price is forgotten.
No I do not sell optics, I just dislike trying to use cheap crap that is not worth the effort.
My favourite magnification is 8x just for general use.
Even 7x are great.
@@daveyboy6985 Right, anything over 8X can be hard to hold still.
Bigger the objective lens better light gathering capabilities mean better low light vision better early morning late evening viewing only drawback is size and weight especially with good glass oh yeah and cost
Purchased my first binoculars last week. Thanks for a complete, easy to understand and calm explanation.
Awesome. Recently got into hiking in the wilderness and decided it was time to buy a pair of binoculars for general viewing. Thanks
Thanks so much for doing this video
that's not half an hour long !
Just what I needed to know as a noob .
Thanks for focusing on the necessary points. My understanding was a bit blurry, but it’s much clearer now! Haha thanks man, great vid and what I needed.
Happy to help!
Thanks for the great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Fabulous video. Great information for people with 0 knowledge of binoculars like me.
Thank u sir.
Glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching.
Let us know if you have any questions!
All you need to know! Thank you!
I need something with a fairly wide view but long range and very detailed and accurate representation of what i am seeing, no changing of color or depth of field no distortion. I want a clear image thats not dull.
I learned something new.
Thanks for sharing this.
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Thank you. It really helped and cleared lot of confusion
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Best binoculars
This is by far the best video Iv watched to learn about binoculars
This dude stores all his knowledge in his belly. Great video
This is the real teaching our kids should be having, how to survive and thrive
Exactly the video I was looking for, background music is a bit loud but thanks for the effort and time you put into the vid! I’m looking to purchase a pair of binos for watching college football
Outstanding job, sir! Told me exactly what I wanted to know without any bull.🤠👍
💪💪
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'Cccc
Thank-you Very Much Sir for your Great clear cut concepts
Thanks
Answered my question within the first minute 👍
Excellent and Superb clarifications Sir - 5 Stars indeed
Appreciate it, glad you found the video useful!
After watching two videos. This is what I was looking for. Thanks
Glad to hear and appreciate you watching!
Awesome video thank you! You broke it down Barney style PERFECTLY.
Glad it was helpful!
A massive thanks this video has helped me a learn a lot about binoculars.
Great to hear that. Don't hesitate to reach out with any questions!
Thanks for the video
Hi, thanks for your great info.
I’m going to a cruise this month to Alaska.
Which binoculars you could suggest for me to buy? Thank you 🙏🏼
Marco,
Thanks for the question! We definitely want to make sure you get the pair that suits your needs and fits within your budget so we'd suggest calling in to our optics manager Cody Nelson to get a quick rundown on your options and the features that they encompass.
Cody Nelson: Phone - (702)847 -8747 Email - optics@GOHUNT.com
At an entry level price tag (around $250) we'd suggest the Vortex Diamondback HD 10x42 or the Leupold BX-2 Alpine 10x42. As you jump to higher price points however, you're going to get a crisper / clearer glass, so we definitely suggest getting in contact with Cody to weigh out the options!
Hope we were able to help, don't hesitate to reach out with any additional questions!
Have a great trip!
@@GOHUNT , thank you so much for this tip. Nothing compare to search who really hold the knowledge.
I really appreciate.
Yes, I’m very excited for this trip with my wife .
I’m a truck driver, now only locally in Los. Angeles area. No more 48 OTR. Alaska Will be my 50° th state to visit..
Excellent description! Thank you
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Well explained. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Super helpful thanks
this is great info. thanks for breaking it down with visuals it really helped
Glad to hear it!
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1: Magnification does not equal field of view, although, generally speaking, they are connected.
2: You don't mount your binoculars on binoculars, but on mono- or tripods.
3: "Objective" and "ocular" are adjectives that tell exactly what end of the binoculars they should be: objective ("pertaining to the object") toward the object, ocular ("pertaining to the eye") toward the eyes. Actually, that's why camera lenses are called "objectives" in many languages (French, German, Russian ...), the full term being "objective lens" - as opposed to "ocular lens".
Are these good for bird watching sounds like best for hunting?
Hi Heidi! These would be great for bird watching as well!
Thanks. I didn't know any of this. 👍🏽
Glad we could help, if you have any additional questions don't hesitate to reach out!
Happy to help!
This was amazing made it simple and fun to understand from other videos.
Love it hear it, thanks for watching!
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A lot of explanations and to make it simple for me which size or numbers I need to see far away
Thank you for sharing
Knowledgeable video Dear 💖 thank you for sharing 🙏😀🎉
Great segment bro ! thank you
Hi Cody,
I enjoyed your video.
I am trying to figure out how to get binoculars or whatever optical equipment made to get maximum focus at short ranges, five to fifty feet away. I am working in interior aviaries trying to see birds, so there is much less light than outdoors. I don't even know if there is such a thing, do you?
ВОТ МОЖЕШЬ ПРОБОВАТЬ: Kowa BD II XD 6.5x32 . ГРАДУС ПОЛЕ ЗРЕНИЯ 10. БОЛЬШЕ НЕТ НИ У КОГО. ПРИВЕТ ИЗ РОССИИ.
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Thank you my 7 year has been begging for some for a year but I just dint know any info or what would sights he would prefer really helpful video
This video is amazing, spectacular, and dare I say "eye" catching? Wow, I had no idea about the numbers or exit pupil, etc. You are an awesome presenter and speaker. Thank you!
Excellent! It was very helpful your explanations. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the great video
All the useful information in one conscise video. Great Job !! Thanks
Still I would like to know poro prism vs. other types of binoculars, their pros and cons. may be next time. Thanks
This exactly the video I was looking for. Thanks for the info
Glad it was helpful! Subscribe to goHUNT on TH-cam for more videos just like this one:
bit.ly/2nLtvHR
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Hi, I came across a nice pair at a Thrift shop. How can I clean them up without scratching them or damaging?
Here is a video going over how to clean optics: th-cam.com/video/pYFqnahTb6E/w-d-xo.html
Thanks my friend you made it easy and I know a lot more about my binoculars than I did before I watched your video God bless you my brother
Awesome, great video ! Thank you brother🙏
Thank you
Great video, thank you for making it simple
Glad it was helpful!
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Some good info, but I have problems with some of your info - or lack there of. Your explanation of field-of-view is sadly lacking just by the fact that it should be mentioned that the number you give is at 1000 ft distance. I'm not going to have 300 ft field of view if I'm watching birds that are only 20 yards away. It should be mentioned that the higher the power, the more shaky the image will be for hand-held binoculars. Anything higher than 10 power will likely need a tripod to get a good stable image. It would be useful to mention why there is only one diopter adjustment instead of saying it was covered on another video.
Thanks!
your eye pupil can use about 5 to 5.5 (40 years avg). Optics are critical early and late where exit pupil delivering as much light as your eyes can take in is critical.
I also appreciate the video! I always wanted to understand those numbers! I knew they were needed for view but I didn’t understand how to apply them for my particular needs. Thank you so much👍😊👍
If you're going on safari and want the sweet spot between extended field but also close-ups, what would be recommended? Thanks
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Wondering the same thing
Thanks bro.
Awesome video my brother. Chock full of valuable information. Thank you. 👍🏾👍🏾
This was a succint, well-put together video. Any recommendations for an everyday binocular? I'm not a hunter etc. I just want a pair for when I'm out at the beach or hiking etc. and want to zoom in. Anyone else reading this who has suggestions, let me know.
Good video, didn’t know about the attachment, thanks, I see a lot of criticism but don’t see their videos!
The quality of the glass and how long they have been polished along with the lens coating is important because it reduces the amount of light reflected and allows the maximum amount of light to enter. The quality of the lens, meanwhile, ensures the image is aberration free and has better contrast. The best lenses work better in low light conditions as they transmit more light. They also ensure that the colours are not washed out or distorted. Users with spectacles should look for a high eyepoint.
The coating on binocular lenses-not just the objective lenses, incidentally-are also an important consideration. In fact, coatings are critical to how well you can see faraway animals through your binoculars. Good lens coatings reduce light reflection off the glass surfaces to further enhance the image. With uncoated lenses, light transmission from objective to ocular lenses might be less than 70%, but good lens coatings can raise that to 95% transmission. Coating categories include: Coated, at least one major optical element has a coating on at least one surface; Fully Coated, all lenses and glass surfaces have a coating layer; Multi-Coated, at least one of the major optical elements has multiple coatings of anti-reflective compounds on at least one surface; and Fully Multi-Coated, all glass surfaces have multiple coatings, resulting in 90-95% light transmission. Binos with fully-multicoated lenses, like the Lecia Trinovid are best option if you can afford them.
Mine claims multicoated prisms. But saw a set which were smaller and had BAK 4 prisms.
Heard they were good ?
@@MrTimjm009 BAK4 is definitely better than BK7. Whatever your price point is, research each pair carefully. There will be at least one model that will stand out from the others.
Very informative.Thanks.
Awesome to hear! Thanks for checking out the video.
Great video, thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
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Thank you!
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Incredibly articulate with no fluff!
great video, thank you - well done.
Having less power means less magnification as well right? If we have eye power problems, then should we adjust the ocular lenses by making it extended or leaving it as it is enough?
Any recommendations for binoculars for farm watch purposes? Half mile view to 3/4 mile clear view?
Great Question, thanks for reaching out!
We relayed the question to our Optics Manager Cody Nelson and this was his response...
I would use either a Vortex Diamondback HD 10x42 or 12x50. Or upgrade to the Vortex Viper HD 10x42 or 12x50. I like the 10x's for the brighter image, wider FOV, and being easier to hand hold. But if a little extra magnification is needed the 12x is an excellent all-around performer that would only be a little less stable when hand-held but the image would be larger to bring in more detail. Either one would work well for this task. More than 12x would require a tripod or window mount for more stable viewing.
If you have other suggestions please feel free to reach out to optics@gohunt.com
Thanks from India
Wonderfully explained.. thanks
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Best binoculars
Basically okay, but you should add a few things to your demo: For eyeglass users look for binoculars typically with AT LEAST 18mm of eye relief (22 mm is better), otherwise you get black out.
With more light comes much heavier binoculars, often MUCH heavier. I can't think of a reason why anyone walking around with a pair of binoculars needs anything much more than 10X and maybe 43. I you are looking at lenses with 15X56 you are most likely looking for submarines! Birders when they first start should look at 8X30 and once they get good with them maybe move onto 10X42/43. Remember the higher the magnification, the harder it is to find you subject. The larger the objective lens the heavier the binocular. Test first, buy later. You will be walking around with them all day likely.
The only thing I would like to know is , are all binoculars even the old old ones , are they all focused from like a certain footage to infinity or is that only the auto focus binoculars that are set like that ? Oh and what auto focus binoc should I get for star gazing . I used to own a pair that were awesome but have no idea what happened to them . Could you tell me what lenses would be best for that ...Thx
No BS, just what we needed to hear
Great video thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks great vid!
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Wow sir this is really good and what about telescopes
Excellent video!! I got exactly what I needed. Thanks so much!
Glad we could help out! Thanks for watching!
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Thank you Sir 💯👍
Great information.
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Thank you makes things clear
Thank you for the educational video. Have you done a video on the M24 binocular? What are your thoughts/ reviews on them?
Thanks for your feedback! We have not done a review on them but we will take it into consideration for sure! Best of luck this season
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Very informative.
Outstanding knowledge. Thank you, Sir. Subbed. Love the channel's name--will be doing that hopefully next season!
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Best binoculars
Good info! Thx
Thanks for watching!
What about a 20*50mm? Or do you have any best number you recommend please ?
Awesome clip
As a newbie, what binoculars can you suggest?
Can't get easier than this. Thanks
Thanks mate I learn a bit
New to this. Just trying to gain a basic knowledge. That 330 foot field of view you mentioned, is that at a set distance? Just trying to figure out how to gauge that a little and how I can use that info relative to a different set of binos
It's at a set distance, I think he said it in a very confusing way.
Great vid, no bs. Thank you.
No problem 👍
Thnx.that clears up a lot .
Very insightful information. Thanks!
You're very welcome!
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Best binoculars
Dzięki za materiał.
Czy wg ciebie ta lornetka byłaby ok? LORNETKA PRAKTICA FALCON 12X50 SAND
Hello sir. For 12 x 50 binacular, will you be able see the andromeda galaxy on this?
Hahah probably not
@@GOHUNT ty for the feedback. Will you be able to provide some specs of a binacular that can see the Andromeda galaxy? Tnx in advance and stay safe always.
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how to choose binoculars