I like the clear fuel line as you can see through it and see what your fuel is doing but that old tigon stuff gets hard so quick you're probably better off with that reinforced black line for your pump AND your fuel line
@@jasonbusch3624 I've got some blue tent urethane line seems like it holds up over time pretty decent .. it is a little bit stiff when it's new though especially if it's cold .. I usually have to roll it in between my fingers and the kind of soften it and sometimes even stretch it out with a pair of reverse snap ring pliers to get it to slide over the nipple
Got life! Sure, the cable adjustments not right and if he never got it running never messed with the idle speed either. Do they still make the syncro gauges for multi-carb bikes or did those go the way of Tach/Dwell Meters and Timing Lights for Coil/Distributer Ignition cars?
Yes I adjusted the idle screw down and it was much better. I think they still makes sinc gauges, I'll find out soon as I need to order a set. Another guy said it's o rings in the fuel rail, so I'll order a rebuild kit. I'm just happy it sounded good with no knocking/rattling sounds.
Yes O-rings. Ebay has them. Synchronize the carburetors once changed and set the air screws for best low end performance. Most people don't and their bikes have a miss on the low end and run like crap.
@@TheHandsOnChannel yes and a box fan. Possibly a external fuel tank like a old Tecumseh push mower plastic tank or enough fuel line to set your tank on something beside the bike like a stand or shelf. Possibly a small piece of hose and screw or vacuum cap to block the petcock vacuum port for the fuel tank if it has one.
@@TheHandsOnChannel pull the carbs off and look inside. If the original jets look good and they are not all corroded up you should be able to clean the carbs in a bucket of Gunk Carburetor and parts cleaner. I use a little rubbing compound on a Q tip in my cordless drill to polish the needle seat and a Scotch Brite pad to polish the needle. Most times I don't get rebuild kits unless I need gaskets or O-rings. Most carburetors can just be cleaned. The cheap crap china rebuild kits are ok as long as you can reuse your original jets otherwise find a rebuild kit that has OEM jets. There are a few aftermarket companies like K and L that have good aftermarket kits.
doing up the same bike but a previous owner has resprayed the gas tank and filled over the emblem mountings, anyone could give me the measurements of where they are would be great so i can put original emblems back without having to repaint the tank
Fun project! Great bike 😊
At least now you know it’s worth investing more time and labor on to get it running right.
New sub n bell here.
I’m looking forward to more about this bike. I might buy it if you wanna sell it.
I love in-line 4s but four carbs are a pain!! Haha
Definitely, but once they're dialed in they usually provide years of reliable service.
I like the clear fuel line as you can see through it and see what your fuel is doing but that old tigon stuff gets hard so quick you're probably better off with that reinforced black line for your pump AND your fuel line
The blue line lasts quite a long time it's the yellow that's really bad.
@@jasonbusch3624 I've got some blue tent urethane line seems like it holds up over time pretty decent .. it is a little bit stiff when it's new though especially if it's cold .. I usually have to roll it in between my fingers and the kind of soften it and sometimes even stretch it out with a pair of reverse snap ring pliers to get it to slide over the nipple
Plenty of time to dial things in between now and prime riding season!
Got life! Sure, the cable adjustments not right and if he never got it running never messed with the idle speed either. Do they still make the syncro gauges for multi-carb bikes or did those go the way of Tach/Dwell Meters and Timing Lights for Coil/Distributer Ignition cars?
Yes I adjusted the idle screw down and it was much better. I think they still makes sinc gauges, I'll find out soon as I need to order a set. Another guy said it's o rings in the fuel rail, so I'll order a rebuild kit. I'm just happy it sounded good with no knocking/rattling sounds.
I think I still have the full Kawasaki manual for this bike. If I can find it in the attic would you like it for free?
I've been given a Z550. Project bike, but missing the exhaust system :( It's the 79/80 A model, would a GT550 exhaust system fit on?
I’m thinking of getting one just to mess with I’m not familiar with these are they for big dudes I’m 6 6 360 lbs
It would be sacrilege to make that a “parts bike.” It’s too rare and clean. I’m a collector of 80’s Kz’s.
Yes O-rings. Ebay has them. Synchronize the carburetors once changed and set the air screws for best low end performance. Most people don't and their bikes have a miss on the low end and run like crap.
Thanks, ordering tonight. Do I need the 4 vacuum gauge set to sync the carbs?
@@TheHandsOnChannel yes and a box fan. Possibly a external fuel tank like a old Tecumseh push mower plastic tank or enough fuel line to set your tank on something beside the bike like a stand or shelf. Possibly a small piece of hose and screw or vacuum cap to block the petcock vacuum port for the fuel tank if it has one.
@@jasonbusch3624 Thanks Jason! I cant wait to get this thing running right.
@@TheHandsOnChannel your welcome.
@@TheHandsOnChannel pull the carbs off and look inside. If the original jets look good and they are not all corroded up you should be able to clean the carbs in a bucket of Gunk Carburetor and parts cleaner. I use a little rubbing compound on a Q tip in my cordless drill to polish the needle seat and a Scotch Brite pad to polish the needle. Most times I don't get rebuild kits unless I need gaskets or O-rings. Most carburetors can just be cleaned. The cheap crap china rebuild kits are ok as long as you can reuse your original jets otherwise find a rebuild kit that has OEM jets. There are a few aftermarket companies like K and L that have good aftermarket kits.
doing up the same bike but a previous owner has resprayed the gas tank and filled over the emblem mountings,
anyone could give me the measurements of where they are would be great so i can put original emblems back without having to repaint the tank
the two mounting holes are 142mm apart if that helps