Don't know if you're going to see this. But followed your advice, found bad heating element and replaced it myself. The difference is staggering. My garden tub fills in one go hotter than ever. Thank You!!!
Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
What a great video. Watched it and did it myself. Thanks so much. My tank is 15 years old and it was the ONLY time it's been drained, swept out and elements changed. Surprisingly the elements were in great shape still. But there was a ton of dirty sediment, rust colored mud like substance and large salt like crystals. Now that I spent a few hours cleaning it out and changing out the elements, I fully expect the tank itself to fail. That's how it is you know...sometimes when you mess with things that aren't broken...you break them! LOL.
Great Video (-) but points missed/errors: Did not check for leaks before re-installing covers. Did not replace encrusted elements. Did not fill tank fully before turning power back on. Did not inspect anode rod. Overall not much sediment but a waste of time not doing the above :(
Also, should not open the TPR valve for air flow. It may not reseat and will then have to be replaced. Just open a bathroom sink hot water faucet. Leave it open the entire time it is draining and the entire time it is filling. Once it starts running smooth, the tank is full.
The procedure you describe is exactly how it's done. I perform this service every 2 years. I cannot understand how you do not REPLACE the Heating Elements and Anode Rod to NEW. The Anode Rod is at the top of the heater and its function is to draw the lime and other minerals to the rod. Cost is around $45 for both. Just cleaning out the bottom, although that's very good, is not enough to increase your hot water. Electric water heaters are heated by the heating elements not like gas water heaters that heat by flame at bottom of water heater. CHANGE BOTH and you will have all the hot water you desire.
Because they weren't worn-out or deformed and I wasn't experiencing any loss of hot water capacity while showering. Ya they're cheap but there's no need to trash them unnecessarily. That just seems wasteful.
Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
Great video, but after you put elements back in, you ought to turn cold water back on to see if it is leaking anywhere,so it won' t leak on electrical connections. Which could shock you, or cause a fire. 😀🤔
You might want to change your dip tube/ Anode Rod that keeps falling apart causing the little white pieces that's clogging all your water inlets. aerators.
Suggestions: 1. Take a picture of the wiring with you cell phone so you know how to reattach. 2. Use new heating elements. 3. Use a lighted inspection scope to see all the way into the tank. I keep asking the rental desk at Home Depot but they refuse to get lighted inspection scopes.
Good suggestions but as for the heating element, I'm still using that one and it's doing just fine. Why send something to the landfill when it's still perfectly functional. My decision has nothing to do with cost.
@@kentonkirkpatrick5225 Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
Great video! Just bought a house last month and my water heater is 2 years old so I doubt the previous homeowner did any maintenance. My question is, do you clean the elements as well with a wire brush and take off the build up on those?
Lessened? Probably. Insufficient? In my case no. I suppose your success will depend on the power of your shop vac. Mine is nothing special or particularly powerful.
Good job, but just replace your elements ($10.00 a piece at Lowes or Home Depot) - you went to all of the trouble of draining the tank and removing them - JUST REPLACE THEM! The shape that yours were in, they won`t last much longer! I like the hose attachment - I use an automotive heater hose myself. People ask about cleaning the elements - at this point, the metal is compromised and any caustic cleaner will further damage them - like I said - $10.00 a piece!
Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
@@ShawnGS300 I ran into that problem years ago, I ended up having to buy a new water heater. Most tanks are glass lined and I would be afraid of using a torch to heat up the area for fear of cracking the glass. Maybe soak the elements with penetrant and keep trying with the wrench? Good luck!
If it's broken there will be an obvious break/split in the element. They will sometimes start to sag too without necessarily breaking. I'd replace it/them if that were the case.
Electric water heaters operate using a 220/240 circuit which doesn't use a neutral. They are both hot. I am not an electrician so you should make an effort to verify my response but to the best of my knowledge it does make a difference which hot is connected to which terminal. When I've done it myself I've always made sure they were rewired the same way I initially found them. Here's a video that may also help: th-cam.com/video/_YZkgZVCZn0/w-d-xo.html
That sediment looks like mineral deposits from hard water. You should have installed new elements while you had it apart. If the elements don't last very long you can get Low Watt Density elements that last longer but take slightly longer to heat the water.
Once the tank was empty and you verified that you had build up, couldn't you have just opened the water valve to flush out/down the hose and into the drain instead of hooking up the vacuum and buying the hose and attachments you used? Anyone know if that would work?
That first thing I tried was a simple flush, pretty much like you suggest, but it didn't do much good. I think because the spigot is located an inch or two above the floor of the tank, gives the relatively small opening of the spigot, and the weight of the mineral deposits (specially the larger chunks), it just didn't do much good. Also, in my case the drain empties to a corner of my patio garden which can barely handle the initial tank draining and it would make dealing with the debris more difficult. I would encourage you to give it a try first to see if it works but if it doesn't than this is an effective backup strategy.
I've just had a new 60 gallon giant cascade water heater installed. But my water tank breaker keeps tripping. The specs say that the tank generates 40 amps and needs a 25-30 amp breaker, but I do have a 30 amp breaker. What could the problem be? Thanks
The thermostat on the water heater is supposed to turn on ONLY one element at a time. Usually the top one first, then when that turns off the bottom one turns on. If both elements are on at the same time it will trip the breaker. Could be a bad thermostat. There are different types of elements that draw different amounts of amps. th-cam.com/video/W34c0-QqB1I/w-d-xo.html
Got a question for the group. When running the shower the hot water starts to go cold after only 5mins or so n I wanted to know if rheres a common issue that causes this on a Reliance electric water heater model# 650DORS 210. Thanks for any advice. I'm on my own n bever had this issue bf. The heater is abt 7yrs old
Ha, sorry. I haven't had an issue with that since I've been cleaning out my water heater annually, or at least not yet. The elements are solid metal and don't appear to have an issues if they have a thin film on them. I've just been taking off the chunkier stuff with a screw driver.
Question: as the water heater is filling up do you turn the power back on or wait until the water heater is fully filled with water and how do I know when the water has reached its capacity in the tank
Don't know if you're going to see this. But followed your advice, found bad heating element and replaced it myself. The difference is staggering. My garden tub fills in one go hotter than ever. Thank You!!!
Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
What a great video. Watched it and did it myself. Thanks so much. My tank is 15 years old and it was the ONLY time it's been drained, swept out and elements changed. Surprisingly the elements were in great shape still. But there was a ton of dirty sediment, rust colored mud like substance and large salt like crystals. Now that I spent a few hours cleaning it out and changing out the elements, I fully expect the tank itself to fail. That's how it is you know...sometimes when you mess with things that aren't broken...you break them! LOL.
Did it fail, or did it work? Lol
Thank you for the easy to follow directions. I'm ready to attempt the job!😊
Great Video (-) but points missed/errors:
Did not check for leaks before re-installing covers.
Did not replace encrusted elements.
Did not fill tank fully before turning power back on.
Did not inspect anode rod.
Overall not much sediment but a waste of time not doing the above :(
Thanks for pointing it out, i will check those things too :)
Also, should not open the TPR valve for air flow. It may not reseat and will then have to be replaced. Just open a bathroom sink hot water faucet. Leave it open the entire time it is draining and the entire time it is filling. Once it starts running smooth, the tank is full.
Thank you for the help and going through the effort to make this vid.
The procedure you describe is exactly how it's done. I perform this service every 2 years. I cannot understand how you do not REPLACE the Heating Elements and Anode Rod to NEW. The Anode Rod is at the top of the heater and its function is to draw the lime and other minerals to the rod. Cost is around $45 for both. Just cleaning out the bottom, although that's very good, is not enough to increase your hot water. Electric water heaters are heated by the heating elements not like gas water heaters that heat by flame at bottom of water heater. CHANGE BOTH and you will have all the hot water you desire.
Because they weren't worn-out or deformed and I wasn't experiencing any loss of hot water capacity while showering. Ya they're cheap but there's no need to trash them unnecessarily. That just seems wasteful.
Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
Thanks for the great info. I will now be able to drain my water heater with confidence
Guy is right about no repower until proven full again. Overall, really well explained, demonstrated & helpful video.
simple explanation, great vid...also read other viewer's comments...thank you, all...
Don't turn the power back until the water heater is all the way full!
You will cook the element.
Great video, but after you put elements back in, you ought to turn cold water back on to see if it is leaking anywhere,so it won' t leak on electrical connections. Which could shock you, or cause a fire. 😀🤔
Very thorough instructions!!!! Points I never seen before! How bad is the water where you are and how old is that water tank?😂
Thanks so much. That's a ton easier than I thought it as going to be.
Thank you! Maybe you should've added how to clean the Heating Elements for a build up, but you did a great Job.
Thank you
You might want to change your dip tube/ Anode Rod that keeps falling apart causing the little white pieces that's clogging all your water inlets. aerators.
Suggestions: 1. Take a picture of the wiring with you cell phone so you know how to reattach. 2. Use new heating elements. 3. Use a lighted inspection scope to see all the way into the tank. I keep asking the rental desk at Home Depot but they refuse to get lighted inspection scopes.
Good suggestions but as for the heating element, I'm still using that one and it's doing just fine. Why send something to the landfill when it's still perfectly functional. My decision has nothing to do with cost.
Great informative video.
Where can I find the heating element for sale, are they model specific?
@@ShawnGS300 Start at home depot, either the store or online. Maybe call the helpline for whatever brand you are using.
@@kentonkirkpatrick5225 Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
Thanks for sharing
Good job, thanks!
Great video! Just bought a house last month and my water heater is 2 years old so I doubt the previous homeowner did any maintenance. My question is, do you clean the elements as well with a wire brush and take off the build up on those?
Thank you so much for posting this
Video and sharing your information.
God Bless You 🙏🏼🙏🏽🙏🏾
Porque no haces mas videos de estos Porfavor.
Perdon. Hice este video solomente porque en ese momento no había otros videos que demostraran cómo hacer esto.
Nice work thanks for the tips :)
Never turn the breaker on until the water heater is full of water and the air has been bled from the heater, or you’ll burn up the element quickly.
How do you bleed the air out from the heater?
@@ChosenAndUndone Just open the handle on the relief valve on top. Flip it closed as soon as water spurts out.
If you put the larger diameter hose over the end of the smaller diameter hose isn't your suction capacity limited to the smaller hose?
Lessened? Probably. Insufficient? In my case no. I suppose your success will depend on the power of your shop vac. Mine is nothing special or particularly powerful.
Now is that the same sediment that we drink when we get a glass of water from the faucet???
Mmmmmmm nummy....
I'm pretty sure these are devolved minerals that are solidifying in the tank. The same stuff that makes hard water hard.
Yes I'm pretty sure
Good job, but just replace your elements ($10.00 a piece at Lowes or Home Depot) - you went to all of the trouble of draining the tank and removing them - JUST REPLACE THEM! The shape that yours were in, they won`t last much longer! I like the hose attachment - I use an automotive heater hose myself. People ask about cleaning the elements - at this point, the metal is compromised and any caustic cleaner will further damage them - like I said - $10.00 a piece!
NO Prevent maint.. wants All the BUCKS
Problem, I can’t get either heating elements off, and I bought the element wrench. The heating element, it’s on so tight it’s like it became welded on. Any suggestions on how to remove the heating element if it’s stuck on?
@@ShawnGS300 I ran into that problem years ago, I ended up having to buy a new water heater. Most tanks are glass lined and I would be afraid of using a torch to heat up the area for fear of cracking the glass. Maybe soak the elements with penetrant and keep trying with the wrench? Good luck!
@@ShawnGS300maybe wd40?😳
How can you tell if the element is broken
If it's broken there will be an obvious break/split in the element. They will sometimes start to sag too without necessarily breaking. I'd replace it/them if that were the case.
how do you know what screw to put the wiring back into there's no negative or positive or does it not matter ?
Electric water heaters operate using a 220/240 circuit which doesn't use a neutral. They are both hot. I am not an electrician so you should make an effort to verify my response but to the best of my knowledge it does make a difference which hot is connected to which terminal. When I've done it myself I've always made sure they were rewired the same way I initially found them.
Here's a video that may also help:
th-cam.com/video/_YZkgZVCZn0/w-d-xo.html
That sediment looks like mineral deposits from hard water. You should have installed new elements while you had it apart. If the elements don't last very long you can get Low Watt Density elements that last longer but take slightly longer to heat the water.
Once the tank was empty and you verified that you had build up, couldn't you have just opened the water valve to flush out/down the hose and into the drain instead of hooking up the vacuum and buying the hose and attachments you used? Anyone know if that would work?
That first thing I tried was a simple flush, pretty much like you suggest, but it didn't do much good. I think because the spigot is located an inch or two above the floor of the tank, gives the relatively small opening of the spigot, and the weight of the mineral deposits (specially the larger chunks), it just didn't do much good. Also, in my case the drain empties to a corner of my patio garden which can barely handle the initial tank draining and it would make dealing with the debris more difficult. I would encourage you to give it a try first to see if it works but if it doesn't than this is an effective backup strategy.
I've just had a new 60 gallon giant cascade water heater installed. But
my water tank breaker keeps tripping. The specs say that the tank
generates 40 amps and needs a 25-30 amp breaker, but I do have a 30 amp
breaker. What could the problem be? Thanks
The thermostat on the water heater is supposed to turn on ONLY one element at a time. Usually the top one first, then when that turns off the bottom one turns on. If both elements are on at the same time it will trip the breaker. Could be a bad thermostat. There are different types of elements that draw different amounts of amps. th-cam.com/video/W34c0-QqB1I/w-d-xo.html
Got a question for the group. When running the shower the hot water starts to go cold after only 5mins or so n I wanted to know if rheres a common issue that causes this on a Reliance electric water heater model# 650DORS 210. Thanks for any advice. I'm on my own n bever had this issue bf. The heater is abt 7yrs old
It’s likely either a single bad heating element or possibly a single bad thermostat.
I need to get a filter before my water heater..
Watch the sides of those plates they can be sharp and you can cut your fingers
tHAT WAS GREAT, BUT YOU FORGOT TO CLEAN YOUR ELEMENTS WITH A WIRE BRUSH.
You could try soaking your heating element in vinegar to remove the lime.
You didn't clean the elements, that's what I was looking for
Ha, sorry. I haven't had an issue with that since I've been cleaning out my water heater annually, or at least not yet. The elements are solid metal and don't appear to have an issues if they have a thin film on them. I've just been taking off the chunkier stuff with a screw driver.
Question:
as the water heater is filling up do you turn the power back on or wait until the water heater is fully filled with water and how do I know when the water has reached its capacity in the tank
ck guide from Avasva eco blog.
DiDO
Thank you