Table Saw Safety | DIY Push Stick (Easy)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ย. 2022
- Rob Cosman shows you how to make his table saw push stick from your scrap wood pile
----------
If you like our content please LIKE us, SUBSCRIBE to our TH-cam channel, and RING THE BELL to be notified whenever we release a new video.
_______
* SUBSCRIBE TO ROB"S MONTHLY WOODWORKING TIPS NEWSLETTER - lp.constantcontactpages.com/s...
* SUBSCRIBE TO ROB'S TH-cam CHANNEL TO TAKE YOUR WOODWORKING TO THE NEXT LEVEL: / robcosmancom
* POPULAR VIDEO PLAYLISTS:
- Sharpening Plane Blades and Chisels: • Sharpening Hand Plane ...
- Hand Plane Basics: • Hand Plane Basics
- Woodworking Tips and Tricks: • Woodworking Tips & Tricks
- Hand Cut Dovetails: • Dovetails by Hand
- Best of Rob Cosman Videos: • Best of Rob Cosman You...
- Tool Reviews: • Tool Reviews
- Rob Cosman Workbench: • Rob Cosman Workbench
* SUBSCRIBE TO ROB'S ONLINE WORKSHOP - robcosman.com/pages/rob-s-onl...
* LIVE TH-cam WORSHOPS - Every other saturday at 6:00pm Eastern Time
* QUESTIONS - Have a question about the Tools, Techniques, or Anything Else you saw in this video? Post your question in the comments section of this video!
* VISIT OUR STORE - To learn more or purchase any of the tools you saw Rob use in this video, please visit our retail store at www.robcosman.com
* LEARN ABOUT ROB'S PURPLE HEART PROJECT: robcosman.com/pages/php-what-...
* DONATE TO THE PURPLE HEART PROJECT: robcosman.com/products/how-to...
* FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA:
FACEBOOK - / robcosman
INSTAGRAM - / robcosman_handtoolwood... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Check out Rob's DIY Jointer Push Blocks video here: th-cam.com/video/cyyZ6NlnxcY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I am new to woodworking, the guy that bought a table saw with no prior experience. I liked and subscribed.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Hi Rob. I learned how to make this push stick watching your online workshop. I had seen you use this design hundreds of times which encouraged me to make one and use it. Thanks for being such a great teacher and example for your students (of which I happily consider myself one). Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. Rich.
Happy T-day to you
I've been searching for the perfect shop made pushstick for years. I've got about 10 different shapes and styles in my shop, and I have never fallen in love with any of them. I can't wait to try this one and see whether it finally is the last design I need to try.
Let me know what you think
Timely video, had been planning to make a push stick, inspired action, works great
I've used this exact style for over 20 years at the college I teach furniture making/woodworking. I tend to make them out of baltic birch plywood. (some 1/2" and 3/4") I save up 10-15 pieces of scrap about the size you use and stock up. I also will often take and cut the bottom 1/2" off and re-do the sole if the groves are not too deep. the students love them and always use them.Safety is the first thing we teach
I agree, I am just copying the design that my teacher showed me at BYU
Love it! Marked out on a plywood offcut while I watched. Will be in use tomorrow. Thanks!
Sounds great!
You do a better job freehand than I do with a French Curve. Great video.
I doubt that. Artistry is not my strong suit
Wonderful design. Thank you for sharing this, stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Same to you
I don't know how many times the piece of wood I was ripping tried to climb up close to the blade shortly into the cut. This style pushblock really helps stabilize your workpiece and makes it so much safer. Thank you for sharing this!
Totally agree with you
Thank you!
Very nice. Will have to make one.
Let me know how it works for you
Nice, simple design. I love it~! I'll try this with ply as well. I had one that I'd made (20+) years ago out of solid wood and it splintered one day when it hit the table saw blade during a cut. That was my intro of flesh to spinning steel. Love my SawStop now, but don't want to take the chance of setting off the brake, or much less reenacting that scene. Thanks for sharing this, Rob~!
I make mine from scrap ply a lot.
Wow. I have been using this design for years. I don’t remember where I got the design but it is the best push stick bar none.
Thanks, Rob
you bet
thanks
Saw Stop saws are great at saving your fingers, but I'm sure the replacement parts are rather expensive still from the time the mechanism was introduced. The push stick is countless times less expensive.
Totally agree
Nice. I prefer moving the handle forward a few inches from this design, but to each his own.
That's perfectly acceptable
I love the Jessem stock guide. I attach it to my fence with two Mag Switches so it can be removed easily (lots of videos on how to do this). It does everything - canted wheels keeps the board tight to the fence, one way wheels stops kick back, spring wheels stops the board from lifting, and it is a Canadian company - probably not far from where you live. Does everything a feather board and push stick do plus more. No more splinters in my hands. For the really narrow boards you can use almost any skinny stick to push through the blade, it just doesnt matter when the stock guide does all the work.
Not saying you dont need a push stick, you do for some cuts and I like your design, but the Stock Guides are in place for the majority of my cuts and make me feel safer
I always wanted to try one of those. Maybe now I will!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking If you buy one, I used the 30 mm Magswitch from Lee Valley and I cut a matching racetrack shaped hole at each end of the wood for the magswitch rather than screw the magswitch in place. This way the magswitch will not turn as it would in a round hole and can be easily removed and used for another purpose if needed.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Definitely recommend them. I have an old Craftsman table saw - no riving knife, blade guard with kickback pawls and splitter were ineffective (even dangerous), removed early on (in early 1980s).
Suggesting that a Sawstop will keep you from cutting yourself is probably an exaggeration. Rex Krueger has a video about a pretty significant injury to his thumb from a Sawstop. The working theory was that his fingernail made contact first, which didn't conduct enough current to trigger the safety mechanism until it had started cutting him.
I do like this pushstick design and will be making a few.
I have not had any bad experiences with the saw stop triggering mechanism. Unlike Rex, I run a tool manufacturing facility with numerous employees and 4 sawstops. I have lost count of how many times the saw-stops have been triggered ( twice by me) and every time they performed as advertised saving numerous serious injuries. I also taught at a woodworking school in Calgary and those students activated them literally 100s of times while I was there saving countless fingers. I also know the sawstop guys from the show circuit and last time I talked to them no suits had been brought against them for the trigger mechanism from failing to perform properly. All that said you should always practice safe procedures even with a sawstop
This design is worlds above the generic 16” stick with a bird’s mouth. I do however prefer the design Marc Adam uses in his shop. It’s highlighted in a Fine woodworking video series on table saw techniques. Thanks for all you do rob and company. I don’t always agree with Rob but I always learn something.👍🏼 keep it up!
Luther uses the Marc Adams design too. Very similar with a difference or two
I have to ask. Your push stick puts your hand exactly in the position you don't want it to be if you do have kick back. Pulling it across and into the blade. Why isn't it longer so that you don't have to lean over the cut or put your hand where the blade can cut it off?
My thoughts on this... Well, I liked it enough that I just paused the video and went and made one.
Rob you made another good video to learn from. i would like to see your video about why a splitter is important. i know those videos exist, but they are not yours.
Ok. I will add it to the video to do list
Thanks for video, going to make one. Question: what tape measure are you using, looks very readable.
Thats tha Tajima tape that we sell. I like it because its easy to read and stays accurate.
Darn it Rob ya make me wanna grow my hair out.... Tks,tks a lot lol
Do you leave the wood piece on your router? Does it serve as a guide or other purpose?
Thank you.
I've been experimenting and I prefer a big heavy block of wood with a tooth on the back end. Gives plenty of downward force and keeps my hands far above the blade. I'm a beginner so if anyone sees a problem with this, let me know.
Would it work just as easily to just joint the whole bottom and then glue on the little heal cleat part? Seems like it would and might might even be faster if you don't count the time for the glue to dry.
Sure...go for it
How do you feel, Rob as to the usefulness of a strip of sandpaper glued to the bottom of the flat section? Overkill?
That is what I do. Overkill possibly, but, makes me feel better knowing I have some "grip" even with the stop heel on the push stick.
Absolutely that will work, but these things get chewed up a quickly so I dont bother
Two thoughts from watching: isn‘t your hand pretty close to the blade (in case of tilting the push stick to the left)?
Secondly I learned that putting the stick near to the blade (instead of the fence) provides more pressure towards the fence, which is preferable?
I love your work, but this time I am not 100% convinced.
What are your experiences with my concerns?
Well I have never had any issues. You need to do three things regardless of what push stick you use:
1) Maintain control of the wood through the cut.
2) Keep the reference edge of the wood against the fenc
3) Keep your fingers out of the blade
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you for answering my question.
#2 and #3 of your advice is exactly what makes me doubt.
Just from watching, I feel umcomfortable regarding these points.
But I‘ll give it a shot.
@@nikolausreinke9966 remember that Rob introduced this style of push stick by saying that it's a design that HE likes - that doesn't mean you have to like it! As I said in reply to another comment, feeling uncomfortable with your tools is an invitation to an accident. So if you aren't comfortable with this design, look for one that you are comfortable with, and which meets the three points Rob made above (personally, I'd have put keeping your fingers out of the blade as #1, but that's just my opinion 😀)
Why doesn't your table saw have a guard over the blade?
The saw stop comes with one but I find it interrupts cutting procedures too much to be useful for me
I thought plywood wasn't supposed to go through a jointer. The glue would damage the blades. Not criticism, wanting to learn. Maybe only being 10" it's not significant.
Love the simplicity, time & cost.
Really don’t know where that started, I’ve never had “glue” damage a blade. Best to ignore old tales like that and trust what you see from your own experience. Too many people repeat it and all of a sudden it’s true! The media knows all about that trick!
Nice design although I would prefer a wider opening at the top like a handle. Also if you have to show someone how to make it then maybe they shouldn't be using a tablesaw.
There are no qualifications to buy a table saw. Assume they don’t know and show they why and how.
Might feel even better if instead of a hole make it oblong so ill fingers fit
good idea
Damn!......get on with it
Patience!
450mm is the minimum requirement for a push stick in Europe, if using a TS.
Seems silly. Are you sure that applies to homemade push sticks?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That seems to be the regulation according to the Health & Safety Executive in the UK. But I'm pretty sure that relates only to commercial use, not home use. They also specify push stick design, which is a long skinny thing with a tiny bird's mouth on the front and a handle at least 450mm away. That would feel incredibly unsafe to me, with no real control other than pushing the work towards the blade - no downward control, no lateral control. So I'll be sticking with a design very similar to yours that has served me well.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Here's the links to the UK's HSE pages for anyone to see.
www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/circular-saw.pdf
www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
There are folks who do the same thing with that shoe design, and it states these rules for all tablesaws.
Many over here across the pond don't have much good to say about this flesh detecting tech, as they see it as pointless
since the blade should be covered, and good practice like the 450mm pushsticks. should be used,
For someone who doesn't have this tech, I urge them to google annual table saw accidents USA,
it is an alarmingly ridiculous number,
Just looked up the most recent stats for USA, and thankfully it's reduced by half compared to pre c19 stats...
I wonder if it vaguely collerates with the Sawstop sales, or perhaps it's made folks wary of an "archaic tablesaw"
Either way, it's still bananas figures @ 39,750
Surely all of the folks who've had these incidents aren't a doofus.
If the older tablesaws i.e Delta and the likes came with true riving knives,
I'd guess these guidelines would've been adoped and made the norm.
Keep safe
Tom
these all can't be doofuses .
Looks like Konshu from Moon Knight. Love the idea!
Hi Your comment is incomplete as you omitted the qualifcation that this for industrial users and quote: 'A push-stick should always be used when making any cut less than 300 mm in length or when feeding the last 300 mm of a longer cut.'.
400mm-16" in the uk i dont like that type of push stick
Then definitely dot use it
Push sticks are for sissies 😒
Real men opt to turn doorknobs with left hand due to less-secured grip from his right hand's thumb and index finger knuckles being missing
I use something similar... I make a comfortable palm shaped handle (kinda like the curve in the back of yours) out of a 2x4. The handle is reusable, so make it comfortable.
Screw this to the edge of a 2x4 block of whatever length you like (don't let the screws penetrate more than an 1.5" into the block. Then screw a 1.5" wide piece of scrap to the back of the block hanging down by 1/8" or so to catch the back edge of your material.
I like the wider push block because it stands up when I set it down, making it easier to grab as I reach the end of a long rip. And cuts narrower than 1.5" it will push both sides of the cut past the blade. Of course this means that the block gets chewed up faster... But I just remove the handle and screw it to another 2x4 block and add a new price of scrap to the back (or flip the old one)
Probably the cheapest push block to make. And you can really spend some time making a comfortable handle since it will last forever.
This is similar in principle, but my handle is screwed to the top.
www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/push-block/
Sounds like you have a good push stick
I have one just like that from my grandfather. Works great.
Thank you !
Hi Ed. Thnaks for watching and commenting