▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ -- Bow PushPro Pushstick (use discount code 731Bow10 to save 10%): lddy.no/1eahd ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Helical carbide jointer/planer heads from MyWoodCutters: mywoodcutters.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) - Link to 731 Woodworks video: th-cam.com/video/dYknMJ7QbNA/w-d-xo.html *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Not all plastic. PLA will tend to get brittle as it soaks up moisture but even at low moisture is already too hard for me to trust for a push stick. PETG on the other hand will remain flexible and kind of soft in the presence of moisture. Both however are susceptible to tempering as they are heated and cooled, which makes the material harder and more brittle. Some plastics will weaken when exposed to Isopropyle alcohol while others weaken in acetone fumes. I would not trust any push stick without knowing what plastic it is and looking up information to see what is known about it. Too many seemingly harmless interactions like the one between PLA and humidity that can seriously weaken the plastic.
Exactly! There is a lawsuit pending about old plastic dashboard and or trim injuries from airbags deploying with shrapnel! I know that you know how this happens.old hard plastic shrapnel. Oof!
When video creators start completely overblowing possible safety issues just to get clicks on their sponsored links, thats when I stop watching them. Thank you for posting this REASONABLE video, James. We need more content creators like you.
I thought it was funny that even though the safety issue is real, 731 couldn't recreate it, but didn't change his opinion based on his experiments, or offer up any reason as to why his experiments didn't work. But he did have two separate ad reads for the same product.
At last, a calm, sensible, informative video about what can happen and what types of push sticks to use. This video did not try to make a mountain out of a molehill to grab more views. An excellent video from a master woodworker. Keep up the great work.
I felt the same and I watched the 731 beforehand. I felt he didn’t even broach the density and rigidity of the plastics which is exemplified in this video
I watch both channels, each quite different from the other, as many things in life are. I believe one must be careful when comparing the two, since there are so many variables involved. Also, James has been woodworking for many more years than Matt. Matt has a vast knowledge of woodworking for only five years into it. My understanding is that he started around 2017 and, prior to that and his awesome career as a LEO, the only slightly related occupation was in construction. He did make some good points and demonstrations. Give him a couple more years guys.
Your videos are so incredibly polite in reference to others videos. You gave lots of good info and what *I* believe is a counter point to 731, but never called him out and never got disrespectful. Kudos!
I've always made my push sticks with wood. Not implying that the plastic ones are not good, but I like the idea of customizing my stick, and there's never any shortage of wood in the shop.
I used to make my push sticks from wood. Then I had one break on a grain line once and the force made me follow through and I hit my hand on the table. I got lucky..now I use plywood.
Exactly. Plus when ripping narrow stuff like 3/8s my push stick always get a cut down the center. Easy to cut a clean end on the bandsaw once its chewed up. If the stick gets too short start a new one. I just use 3/4" x 1.5" straight sticks with a notch in the end, cant get cheaper or easier to make.
James, back in the late 70's in middle school, my shop teacher (who had all his fingers) safely demonstrated kickback on the table saw and we all watched a piece of wood go into the wall behind it. Very positive lesson for sure! One day, my board got jammed in the surface planer because our shop teacher hit the emergency shutoff switch. He had seen a girl at the radial arm saw preparing to cut a board with her arms crossed. Her left arm was holding the board to the right of the blade and she was drawing the saw with her right hand! She's lucky she is not known as "Righty" now!
Temperature matters. Around here, many hobby workers either work outside, or have a non-heated building for their woodworking. (Bulky coats around saws could get a video all its own, but most people are smart enough to take the coat off for the tablesaw work). The important bit for this is what is a pliable and tough plastic at 60F may shatter like glass at 10F, so if you are working in the cold, use a wood push stick.
I’m drying out and getting brittle, that’s for sure. Less than twenty years ago I climbed stairs five steps at a time. Three years ago I fractured my foot getting off the toilet! Aging sucks
You are the most reliable woodworking channel when it comes to issues of safety, and also for deeper understanding of tool usage and purpose. Thank you.
Glad you and 731 worked together, I am subscribed to both of you and it is nice to see collaboration between presenters who want to keep people safe. Thanks for putting safety first.
Same here. Shop safety is a must. This is what influential people do when their on the same page. Kudos to both. I’m subscribed to both as well and others. Knowledge is at it best when spread. On a side note had three grandsons in shop over Christmas 8,7,and 6 year olds. We had a good time making ornaments but my safety barometer was at a 12 the whole time lol.
As a former teacher I always had the students make their own push sticks. The students had to explain their design and knew the consequences of what a powerful table saw can do. As a result of this activity not a single student in my class over 34 years had an accident with a PS! Plastics are a business and that’s okay but sometimes you need foundations first. 😊
I gave up on plastic some time ago. I make my pushing devices out of wood. James, you showed some designs, as did some of my other favourite woodworkers. I made three; one got a little cut up on the bottom, but I use these all the time. I do have a Grripper that I use when cutting small pieces. But it’s wood for me. Love your collaboration with Mr. Lawless.
Lots of respect for you and the ability to present topics in a reasonable way, without the hype and clickbait. I'm getting tired of TH-camrs that seem to only want to grab views (numbers, that generate money)... no disrespect for 731, as most content producers do it at the direction of TH-cam "rules". Thank you for taking the time to explain, as always.
To be fair, this video has a bit of a sensationalist title as well. I think the difference is in the actual content; 731's video was a lot of flash and a large ad for a sponsored product, whereas this video was highly informative and doesn't push any particular product.
I make my own out of 3/4" plywood, and run them thru the blade for certain cuts. I've used the same pattern for like 30 years now, and the have far better control than those long skinny sticks. When I have scrap ply, I trace a bunch of sticks on it, and make a couple dozen on a rainy day 😊 I'll share the pattern on my channel next time I make a batch...
Thank you again James. This is another reason why I’ve followed your teaching for the last, what, must be close to ten years now here on TH-cam and your magazine etc, but, for however long it’s been, your wise, patient understanding and ability to so clearly share such important information is what sets you apart from every other presenter and teacher out there. I’m grateful for all you’ve taught me over the years and proud to tell people that a vast amount of my woodworking knowledge, and without a doubt, the smartest and cleverest techniques that I use regularly and constantly have come from your teaching. Thank you James, I, my family and all those who receive as gifts or those who buy my humble efforts as a woodworker can do so because of you and your wisdom and humble kindness in giving such wisdom and experience away to us all for free. Best apprenticeship I could have ever had and grateful forever James, thank you. Oh yeah, and I haven’t forgotten your old man either. We’re of a similar age and I reckon he’s a great guy and a great teacher as well and I’m grateful for all of his fine teaching as well, thanks mate. All my best from the great down under, see ya, stay cool and stay safe mate
Time and time again, you address nuance in issues and situations that many oversimplify. What I respect about you is your ability to convey nuance clearly and fairly with a great deal of humor as well.
I have rip cuts from 2x4' and 2x6's that are about a quarter inch thick and 2-3' long from a project I did a years ago. Never threw away the scraps from the rips because they make perfect push sticks. Yes, the blade has hit them a few times, but it doesn't rip them out of my hand because of the length and where I'm holding them. Also, when my push stick needs to be close to the blade, I try to avoid hitting it, but mentally prepare just in case it does come in contact.
Thanks for all the great content you put out. Loved your comment on wooden push sticks. I am a middle school & highschool woodshop teacher in Upstate NY. Thays the first project my students do is make their own push stick. After 15 years I have found its a great way to cover defects, grain structure and equipment safety and build confidence on the band saw with my eighth graders. Select their material, trace one of my templates, cut it out on the band saw, sand with the disc sander and spindle sander, palm sand the faces, drill a hanging hole in the handle and round over the edges at the router table. Great way to use up last year's scraps.
As always, another informative video. I'm a make them from scrap wood guy. I have assorted types, from the long notched stick to the lays on the top with a lip in the back, to suit the need. And I run pine push sticks through the blade all the time when cutting narrow stock. Just over to the bandsaw and cut a new notch when needed.
This is a good follow up to Matt’s video. To all the people that think Matt’s video was just to get clicks, I disagree. He was simply doing a demonstration on what could happen. Even though it didn’t happen. For some people that registers better than just being told it could happen.
The TH-cam woodworking community is quite a growing camp but way too many times I see videos wanting to make a visual statement rather than an intellectual statement. I guess everyone has their comfort zone in learning and communicating so it’s to be expected. Thanks for you being you James and not being comedic or outlandish in any safety conversations. I really appreciate your calm style and thoughts on so many important subjects. I know I will never see you hiding behind a sheet of plywood for protection and that is reassuring in improving my knowledge and experience.
I kind of feel like that was an unnecessary shot at 731 Toolworks. While I'm not a fan of his recent trend away from how-to towards product coverage, his bringing this to the forefront for discussion was admirable. His attempt to show a stick shattering is a valid teaching method to reinforce the risk, regardless of whether it feeds the TH-cam algorithm. And hiding behind plywood? Seems smarter than not doing so. And finally, his video did instigate this video and discussion. There are many roles, methods of learning and presenting, and viewing preferences. Let's savor the abundance without denigrating those alternatives we don't prefer (but are still safe!).
@@DavZell I didn’t make that statement as a negative against 731. I made it as a comparison between James and 731 and that I enjoy James style of informing me better on a personal basis. I don’t like or need accident recreation videos to show me something that I can easily understand as it insults my intelligence. I would say the same about any craftsman who did the same. I also stated that everyone has their own style of communication and that is to be expected. I do wish that Matt would give his viewers a break (pun intended) on the product endorsements and get back to his wood project videos. But now by using someone else’s tragedy to pitch a new product seems to exploit that injured woodworker for his own benefit first rather than to teach me the viewer. His demonstration was completely unnecessary and was just showmanship.
@@markgallagher1376 I have nothing against Matt, his character or his channel. I enjoyed his channel back in the beginning more than I do today but I still watch most of it. Why should I be dishonest about my opinion? Why are you so defensive?
@@heystarfish100 I agree that 731’s old videos were much better. Now it’s all the free tools he has been sent and other online tool deals. You are allowed to have an opinion and to voice it! Matt from 731 voices his opinions, I voice mine, and you should too.
You and 731 are my "go to" woodworking channels. I always get good info from watching similar, but sometimes slightly different, takes on a wide range of topics. Always enjoy both channels. Good job James!
Hi James: I have watched your videos for a few years now and I really enjoy your content and your years of experience and knowledge. I have been working as a carpenter for a little over 40 years now and have been fortunate enough to never have experienced a kick back. I believe that a lot of problems can be avoided by having the blade raised only an eighth of an inch or so above your workpiece, and holding the push stick tight to the fence when ripping narrow stock. That way, very little of the push stick comes in contact with the blade. I also prefer homemade push sticks that put downward pressure on the workpiece as many others have commented. Thank you also for your finesse in handling this issue. John Jensen from British Columbia
This is why I like this channel. Some others have a tendency to gear towards absolutes or sensationalism to get views and comments. James always give the more nuanced but correct and helpful information in a calm and understanding manner. He’s an excellent teacher.
Another good video. Thanks for sharing. Never thought of the plastic explosion factor for a push stick and didn't see the other guys video. I did lose a sliding compound miter saw to a piece of PVC pipe that blew up when I was cutting some dust collection piping on it, so I get the brittle plastic factor. The discontinued lower blade guard took out a window in my shop and sent shards flying. Not my best day. Lots of dangerous stuff in a woodworking shop, so always good to think safety. PS - I have a contractor's grade 12" sliding compound miter saw from Craftsman for sale for anyone not interested in keeping all their fingers. 🤪
Woodworking for over 35 years and learnt that they can explode. Had it happen. Even had acrylic explode on my bandsaw a few months ago because it was a rip blade. Broke the blade as well. I still have plastic pushsticks and use them on the jointer but all my tools have two versions of plywood sticks made from baltic birch. Long handle version and shoe style. Make a router template and pump out a bunch at once. And like Norm said : there is no greater safety device than safety glasses.cheers.
Regarding comfortable push sticks. I use white caulk mixed with corn starch. Makes a dough like substance that, when cured, is soft and pliable. Make great coating for handles on push sticks.
The first thing that came to my mind was the effect of temperature on the material characteristics of plastic. Many people have workshops that can't be adequately heated, or are only heated when in use. That means there will likely be occasions when the sticks are in use while the plastic is considerably colder than room temperature. Cold plastics are harder plastics (even plastics that are fairly soft at human-standard temperatures), and harder usually means more brittle. It's a factor that's important to consider.
Great video. I had the cheap orange and black Amazon push stick and suffered a violent explosion of one of them when accidentally contacting the blade. The 2nd one went in the trash along with the pieces of the first one....I was lucky that all the shrapnel missed me and hit the shop wall 10 feet behind the saw.
I made two wooden push sticks several years ago. I painted the ends of them red just so I always know where they are as I advance my work into the blade. The ends of both sticks are all chewed up from touching the blade over the years, Better them then my fingers. Thanks for the video and the reminders.
First, I want to thank you for your careful explanations without a lot of drama and urgency in your voice. Every topic doesn't need a lot of hype to demonstrate. 731 is not the only one who does that. He's not even the only woodworking channel that does. When I do use the table saw I have an old push stick cut from 3/4" plywood on the bandsaw. It has some nicks on the tip to show it's working to save my fingertips.
The primary push stick I use is made out of MDF. Not for any particular reason, it's just the scrap I had available at the time. I have run it over a blade before when I had to make a particularly difficult cut, and it basically just powdered away.
Yeah, I nicked the OEM Bosch worksite table saw push stick on the blade one time and it kicked back and shattered. The impact on the butt of my hand left a rather large gash and shattered the stick. There was a few moments of WTF, patched up my hand, and used a push block. This video clears up what happened. Thank you!
I believe the best push sticks are carefully home made with soft wood. I also prefer your calm analysis and presentation over the more "sensational" presentations that some seem bent on making....
Always a fan of your clarification videos! Safety is ALWAYS important. I came across another channel which I am also following now... Perkins Builder Brothers... After watching a few videos, I notice in some video's Jamie had all his fingers and in newer ones not. I wasn't brave enough to watch any of the videos documenting what happened but read an article about it... A planer with no guard. Whether you are a Pro or not... it just takes a second to change your life.
My favorite push stick is a large 1 foot nylon speed square. I carved out a notch in the end to make better contact while pushing. When it hits the blade it just cuts like plywood. Soft plastic is the best
I think this is an excellent presentation. Your approach to this and other subjects is measured and considered and you do not make over-generalized pronouncements. I have a gray plastic push stick that has accidentally hit the blade and it put a little saw blade notch in it just like in wood. And I’m sure, as you point out, there are some plastics that might shatter. In all fairness to the 731 Guy, he does have good presentations and I enjoy watching him too. He may tend to over generalize at times, but I still find his channel informative and well worth watching.
I subscribe to 731 as well as your channel and I think your video is the perfect follow up. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Well done as always.
Excellent video. I’m a fan of plywood homemade push sticks because plywood is less likely to shatter than solid wood. That stick with the replaceable foam end is pretty cool, I have to admit.
I mean if you want a wood version of that you could do a lap cut on the wood stick and glue on a new wooden push end. Glue some dowels if you want to be fancy.
I honestly never had solid wood either softwood or hardwood shatter in my homemade push sticks. I always design the grain in the direction where it will be the strongest. Always made it with 3/4" thick lumber of whatever useless scrap I had sitting around. Only just recently tossed an wood push stick away because I cut out all of the usable wood out from my cuts.
Excellent follow up! I love it when my favorite channels work together. Would definitely watch a 1hr+ conversation between you and 731! I am still recovering from a kickback incident (not severe) that almost ruptured two hernia repairs.
This actually happened to me just a couple of months ago using a push stick just like that which came with the saw stop. Plastic is a bad option, I make my own out of wood and they always works fine
You make excellent points! I almost always have used wooden push sticks 'cause Pappy told me that they worked better. And, ya know, after dang near 65 years of wood working I've still got all me fingers and both thumbs.
My go to push stick is actually a push block made from a 2x4. Took about 10 minutes to create. The radius edges that 2x4 have are perfectly comfortable. I just sawed about 1/4 inch from the edge on one side with a band saw, and left a 6 inch toe. That is important, as I can run stock completely though with my hand completely behind the blade. If there is kickback, it won't draw my hand into it.
Thanks for a great follow up with more context. I use plywood to make push sticks. It will not shatter & grain direction don't matter much no matter how you slice it (pun intended). My biggest problem with push stick comes with the saw is that the notch is very deep. It's more than 3/4" so if you are cutting 3/4" or less, it will make contact with the table top and dragging across. It often gets hung up just a little when you get to the throat plate. What' below the top of the board can come in contact with the saw blade easily because it's hard to see. When I make mine, I ensure it's 1/4" so the push stick will not touch the table top when I'm using it.
Thanks for posting this stumpy, I've learned something today that might just keep me safer. And thanks to the original video creator too ( a channel that's also well worth watching)
JLR Workshop- Stumpy, Thank you for some clarity. I watched Matt's video when it first came out and I concluded much the same as you about hardness (brittleness), and the safety issues that may be presented. Generally, I like his videos, and his channel, and consider them on about the same level as yours. I had never seen the Bow pushsticks, and was intrigued. You gave me some ideas on how to improve some of my wood sticks that I tend to lean toward.
Knocked it out of the park again! I do appreciate and trust your perspective on the topic (and other topics)... sensible, not trying to capture the spectacular, just informative. Keep up the great work! it does not go unnoticed as demonstrated by the 772k subscribers and the simple fact that when I have a question about something (yep, newbie here) I look to your videos first-especially when it comes to safety... you can't put a price on trust.
Great add to Matt's video! I always make sure there's plenty of clearance between the blade and fence for my push stick to clear before I make the cut. When it's too close, I switch to my thin push block that rides on the fence. One day I'll order some of the good bow brand push sticks.
I only use wood push sticks. I once had a Bosch push stick bump the blade and got a piece of plastic in my nose. I should add this happened when it was 10 degrees outside when I was cutting. So I would think temperature play a part.
Great video. My dad was a cabinet maker and made all his push sticks out of scrap, I remember seeing him just make a few when things were slow in the shop. It might be worth noting that plastics respond differently to different temperatures. A plastic that is soft in the summer might be brittle in the winter in an unheated shop.
Great video, James. We mostly know that brass, tin, lead, iron, etc are collectively referred to as “metal”. We understand that these each have unique characteristics and qualities. Less so when using the generic collective “plastic”. Most plastics are derived from hydrocarbon bases, and many have other composite materials added that greatly alter their characteristics, in the same way metal alloys do. So you gave the best advice - “Try to avoid hitting your saw blade with your push stick.”
Years ago I had my plastic push stick hit the blade. My fault all the way, but, did not "shatter" but it did jolt a bit. Luckily it did not come off the piece and kick the wood back at me. Went and made my own push sticks out of wood just in case. Funny part is I never hit the blade again since. That is a good thing. Great video.
The shop I worked in had 3 Delta table saws. They had been supplied with push sticks by the manufacturer when new, but they had earned their scars over time, and one had disappeared entirely at some point. So, I made some new ones... Using one of the originals as a pastern, I marked them out on a piece of UHMW polyethylene. I cut them out on a band saw and four new push sticks were born. (That's one for each in the shop, and the one I took home for my own saw.) They were quite stiff enough to push material through the saw, but if they did come in contact with the blade there was no shattering. In fact, I tested a piece and it didn't kick back, shatter, or anything - it was simply cut away smoothly.
My table saw came with a plastic push stick and a pattern to make more. So, I made several push sticks out of scrap 3/8 inch plywood using my hand held jig saw. I even glued pieces on either side and shaped a nice comfortable handle with the Dremel. It took maybe an hour. I'd like to make some thick plywood push blocks, but haven't yet decided on which design I want to use.
I've been using the same plastic push stick for almost 40 years. It has not even nicked the blade in that time. The simple rule is to not let your push stick get too close to the blade. If your cut is so narrow that the stick looks like it could contact the spinning blade, make a narrower push stick, or maybe one that rides along the fence for added safety.
I have a 3/4" wide plastic push stick (the plastic is firm but soft) but I also have made my own 3/16" thick push stick for thin rips. One thing I paid attention to was to round the end so it would not tend to dig into my hand if there ever was any kickback. I think that is really important. The curved handle design isn't just about comfort but so if there is kickback it will slide through your grip instead of pushing into your hand.
I can personally give credit to that point of sanding the edges rounded on the handle side. I had a flooring piece jam and fly back into my homemade wooden push stick(edge un-sanded). It ripped it down of my hand and some skin along with it on my index finger. All healed now but I got a faint scar mark which may go away. PS: I'm definitely going to go sand the handles of my push sticks in a few days. Ruined sanding belt strips are perfect for rounding edges.
A few years ago, I bought a Grizzly hybrid table saw and it came with this red plastic push stick. One hit on the blade sent it flying out of my hand. Since then, it's only used to help snug the work piece against the fence and only before the blade. I've got a wooden push stick for actually pushing the stock through. Still, I'm respectfully nervous every time I get near the saw.
A sensible attitude. An Emergency doctor once told me that any circular saw can cut off a human finger in less time than it takes the owner of the finger to feel it happening. So whether it's a table saw or a hand held circular saw, I think about that every time I am about to use one and it keeps me careful.
Great tip and great information, delivered professionally. Your channel is routinely one of the best all-around productions on YT. Thanks for your work.
Worth noting that plastics often get more brittle with age, so your push stick that was kinda hard but did cut safely last year, may well shatter tomorrow.
What a great vid. My push stick came with my De walt table saw 15 plus years ago, like the grey one in your video. I think a slightly bendable plastic will not fly to pieces. I go by "if in any known doubt DON'T" I've still got all ten digits, I intend to keep it that way. Martin. UK
I don't use "chicken foot" push sticks. I had a kickback incident that scared the crap out of me. I was pushing thin plywood through the saw using one of those. The board on the other side of the blade came up and straight back at me. So I studied push sticks for a long time and abandoned the long chicken foot. I made instead a push stick out of plywood with a long reach and handle up high away from the blade. I can put downward pressure on more of the board than the chicken foot allows and I've never had that happen again. I made these long-reach push sticks out of different thicknesses of plywood. So far I have been able to avoid the blade, but I can cut out a new pusher on the bandsaw in a few minutes. And the ability to put downward pressure on more of the board makes me feel better about making these cuts, especially on thinner material. I saw Matt's video and was interested to see your comment. Thanks for the good information!
I am thankful you made this video, thanks for making this... my current push sticks are oak with the grain sticks. I like that stick you showed with the replacement tip, I think making wood inserts for that could be very easy to make with a simple paper wrap to make sure it doesn't fall out for pennies per replacement.
Thanks for the heads up. I normally use wood sticks but I do own a LV Dual-Tread Push Stick ( 03J7550) which I find excellent. Has a rubber foot and also provides a downward force that may stop kick backs
Years ago, I picked up a pair of plastic "chicken foot" push sticks from Menards. I tried them but I'm not crazy about them for the very reason of discussion in this video. I lean more toward the legendary Matthias Wandell wooden push stick design which he inherited with a saw that he bought. I do not use push sleds at all like the ones Colin Knecht or John Heisz use. If those kick back then my hand is jammed with something relentless that will snap bones. I think they're a trap. Over the past 50 years in the woodshop, I came up with my own design as I'm sure a lot of woodworkers have.
Thank you very much for reminding us even woodworking safety equipment can become a dangerous projectile - or damaging shrapnel. And seeing 731's improvised shielding, it appears he could do with a decent flak jacket or lab safety suit for future demonstrations.
Great video, to add I was unfortunate and just tagged my push stick on the blade while cutting a 2x4 and it completely shattered giving me 5 stitches in my hand, a very scary event. The push stick was the one supplied by the manufacturer of the table saw. I wont mention the manufacturer but it was one of the better brands. I now only use wood home made push sticks.
It's not just the plastic...it's the molder. Many injection molding shops are in the business of turning out parts as quickly as possible. They run the tools and plastic at the lowest possible temperatures and make up for it by running high pressures. This low temp/high pressure approach leads to high residual stresses in the parts...which are waiting (like a curved piece of wood) to let go when they get cut. In extreme cases, the internal stresses can cause the cheap plastic parts to fail with little to no load.
This makes so much sense. I can imagine how those plastics feel and I feel like I'd be able to figure out what would shatter. I cant say that I ever thought about it like this before though. I'm definitely going to have to look up that push stick though
Very good video. I've been using the cheap hard plastic push stick that came with my saw thinking I was safe if it hit the blade. I just ordered one of those pro sticks with a couple extra replacement tips. $4 is cheap insurance compared to sewing something back on.
@@davidcurtis5398 I'm not saying I like them, but right now my "table saw" is one that my father in law purchased at Lowes on closeout 10 years ago for $50. I don't have the setup to use my real saw as it's 220. That one is a 1946 Delta Unisaw. Plans are in motion to get a new 400 amp service for my place in the spring.
I'm using the table saw my father bought over 70 years ago. It is a Craftsman and is still going strong. I also have a Grizzly table saw. The older saw has the motor that hangs off of the back and the belt tension is the weight of the motor. Dad would use the same motor for all of his tools. His saw, his joiner, and the shaper. The drill press had its own motor.
@@davidcurtis5398 those old saws really do good work. But they do need cared for. That unisaw has a motor that weighs 50 pounds, and is rated at 3/4 HP, there are 3 V belts driving the blade and I have never seen that saw bog down. That said, there are no safeties, i'm currently looking for some kind of blade shroud and new fence.
I've got a few push sticks I made out of some scrap maple from a place I used to work at. I also made a bunch of osb ends for them that I don't mind sacrificing to the blade of necessary and just have a couple screws that hold them on. Different handle shapes for them depending on the task at hand. Good video man. Too many go for the clickbait and go nuts with all kinds of stuff. You are bringing sanity to the safety aspect of things and thanks for that. Keep doing your thing.
I designed a push stick that uses a replaceable plywood foot. I made a dozen feet for it from various offcuts at once and now I can replace it whenever I feel the need.
I switched to push blocks a long time ago: I happen to have a few sections of rubber horse stall mat that, when fastened to the bottom of a stack of wood, you can run straight over the table saw blade. They don't smell as good as wood when cutting, but it means I'm always in secure contact with the wood at multiple points. I imagine they're just a little bit less grippy than the high density foam, but a similar design fundamentally
Refrigerate push stick overnight and it will shatter like shrapnel if it is a cheap bad push stick or if by chance your woodworking equipment is in the garage during the winter time and you go out for one quick cut yes the push sticks will shatter if they are plastic and if you use the freezer you'll have to clean up a mess but up in Montana as a kid I saw many things shatter from just the cold
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There's also an age component. As plastic gets older it generally gets more brittle, especially with UV exposure.
Yeah a one or two years in an unheated/cooled shop and I could see some of these failing catastrophicly
Not all plastic. PLA will tend to get brittle as it soaks up moisture but even at low moisture is already too hard for me to trust for a push stick. PETG on the other hand will remain flexible and kind of soft in the presence of moisture. Both however are susceptible to tempering as they are heated and cooled, which makes the material harder and more brittle. Some plastics will weaken when exposed to Isopropyle alcohol while others weaken in acetone fumes. I would not trust any push stick without knowing what plastic it is and looking up information to see what is known about it. Too many seemingly harmless interactions like the one between PLA and humidity that can seriously weaken the plastic.
Exactly! There is a lawsuit pending about old plastic dashboard and or trim injuries from airbags deploying with shrapnel! I know that you know how this happens.old hard plastic shrapnel. Oof!
Or in a basement shop with an oil fired boiler. I swear trace amount or exhaust degrades plastic.
PVC yes, but HDPE or Nylon do that much less
When video creators start completely overblowing possible safety issues just to get clicks on their sponsored links, thats when I stop watching them.
Thank you for posting this REASONABLE video, James. We need more content creators like you.
I thought it was funny that even though the safety issue is real, 731 couldn't recreate it, but didn't change his opinion based on his experiments, or offer up any reason as to why his experiments didn't work. But he did have two separate ad reads for the same product.
At last, a calm, sensible, informative video about what can happen and what types of push sticks to use. This video did not try to make a mountain out of a molehill to grab more views. An excellent video from a master woodworker. Keep up the great work.
Totally agree! Pretty much why I stopped watching 731's videos. He's slowly becoming a clickbait content creator imho
This is why I love what Mr. Hamilton does. We are truly blessed for what he provides to the community.
Finally my cheap ass made my woodworking safer. I have always used the plastic push stick as a template and made copies out of wood. 😂
I felt the same and I watched the 731 beforehand. I felt he didn’t even broach the density and rigidity of the plastics which is exemplified in this video
I watch both channels, each quite different from the other, as many things in life are. I believe one must be careful when comparing the two, since there are so many variables involved. Also, James has been woodworking for many more years than Matt. Matt has a vast knowledge of woodworking for only five years into it. My understanding is that he started around 2017 and, prior to that and his awesome career as a LEO, the only slightly related occupation was in construction. He did make some good points and demonstrations. Give him a couple more years guys.
Your videos are so incredibly polite in reference to others videos. You gave lots of good info and what *I* believe is a counter point to 731, but never called him out and never got disrespectful. Kudos!
I'd be bad making videos because I'm to blunt...
I've always made my push sticks with wood. Not implying that the plastic ones are not good, but I like the idea of customizing my stick, and there's never any shortage of wood in the shop.
I also make mine from wood. Like you I have no shortage of scraps. I use plywood for them for added strength.
I covered (and recommended) homemade push sticks in the video 😊
We are woodworkers, made out of wood, correct density, custom made for the job, Beats the chinese and even cheaper, nuff said
I used to make my push sticks from wood. Then I had one break on a grain line once and the force made me follow through and I hit my hand on the table. I got lucky..now I use plywood.
Exactly. Plus when ripping narrow stuff like 3/8s my push stick always get a cut down the center. Easy to cut a clean end on the bandsaw once its chewed up. If the stick gets too short start a new one. I just use 3/4" x 1.5" straight sticks with a notch in the end, cant get cheaper or easier to make.
James, back in the late 70's in middle school, my shop teacher (who had all his fingers) safely demonstrated kickback on the table saw and we all watched a piece of wood go into the wall behind it. Very positive lesson for sure! One day, my board got jammed in the surface planer because our shop teacher hit the emergency shutoff switch. He had seen a girl at the radial arm saw preparing to cut a board with her arms crossed. Her left arm was holding the board to the right of the blade and she was drawing the saw with her right hand! She's lucky she is not known as "Righty" now!
Temperature matters. Around here, many hobby workers either work outside, or have a non-heated building for their woodworking. (Bulky coats around saws could get a video all its own, but most people are smart enough to take the coat off for the tablesaw work). The important bit for this is what is a pliable and tough plastic at 60F may shatter like glass at 10F, so if you are working in the cold, use a wood push stick.
Age is also a factor. Some plastics will 'dry out' over time and become brittle.
@@ColdRunnerGWN Good point. Especially if stored in sunlight or exposed to _high_ temperatures.
@@lperkins2 ALL of the above points MUST be remembered when dealing with plastics and their uses and storage . Don't ask me how or why.
@@danielbackley9301 No plastics around my table saw. Only wood push blocks...
I’m drying out and getting brittle, that’s for sure. Less than twenty years ago I climbed stairs five steps at a time. Three years ago I fractured my foot getting off the toilet! Aging sucks
You are the most reliable woodworking channel when it comes to issues of safety, and also for deeper understanding of tool usage and purpose. Thank you.
Glad you and 731 worked together, I am subscribed to both of you and it is nice to see collaboration between presenters who want to keep people safe. Thanks for putting safety first.
Thank you Chris!
Same here. Shop safety is a must. This is what influential people do when their on the same page. Kudos to both. I’m subscribed to both as well and others. Knowledge is at it best when spread. On a side note had three grandsons in shop over Christmas 8,7,and 6 year olds. We had a good time making ornaments but my safety barometer was at a 12 the whole time lol.
As a former teacher I always had the students make their own push sticks. The students had to explain their design and knew the consequences of what a powerful table saw can do. As a result of this activity not a single student in my class over 34 years had an accident with a PS! Plastics are a business and that’s okay but sometimes you need foundations first. 😊
What about the kids under 34 though
We don't talk about them
I gave up on plastic some time ago. I make my pushing devices out of wood. James, you showed some designs, as did some of my other favourite woodworkers. I made three; one got a little cut up on the bottom, but I use these all the time. I do have a Grripper that I use when cutting small pieces. But it’s wood for me. Love your collaboration with Mr. Lawless.
Lots of respect for you and the ability to present topics in a reasonable way, without the hype and clickbait. I'm getting tired of TH-camrs that seem to only want to grab views (numbers, that generate money)... no disrespect for 731, as most content producers do it at the direction of TH-cam "rules". Thank you for taking the time to explain, as always.
To be fair, this video has a bit of a sensationalist title as well. I think the difference is in the actual content; 731's video was a lot of flash and a large ad for a sponsored product, whereas this video was highly informative and doesn't push any particular product.
I make my own out of 3/4" plywood, and run them thru the blade for certain cuts. I've used the same pattern for like 30 years now, and the have far better control than those long skinny sticks. When I have scrap ply, I trace a bunch of sticks on it, and make a couple dozen on a rainy day 😊 I'll share the pattern on my channel next time I make a batch...
Excellent presentation, no need to be sensational, just calmly give great honest advice. Brilliant video as always.
Thank you again James. This is another reason why I’ve followed your teaching for the last, what, must be close to ten years now here on TH-cam and your magazine etc, but, for however long it’s been, your wise, patient understanding and ability to so clearly share such important information is what sets you apart from every other presenter and teacher out there. I’m grateful for all you’ve taught me over the years and proud to tell people that a vast amount of my woodworking knowledge, and without a doubt, the smartest and cleverest techniques that I use regularly and constantly have come from your teaching. Thank you James, I, my family and all those who receive as gifts or those who buy my humble efforts as a woodworker can do so because of you and your wisdom and humble kindness in giving such wisdom and experience away to us all for free. Best apprenticeship I could have ever had and grateful forever James, thank you. Oh yeah, and I haven’t forgotten your old man either. We’re of a similar age and I reckon he’s a great guy and a great teacher as well and I’m grateful for all of his fine teaching as well, thanks mate. All my best from the great down under, see ya, stay cool and stay safe mate
Time and time again, you address nuance in issues and situations that many oversimplify. What I respect about you is your ability to convey nuance clearly and fairly with a great deal of humor as well.
I have rip cuts from 2x4' and 2x6's that are about a quarter inch thick and 2-3' long from a project I did a years ago.
Never threw away the scraps from the rips because they make perfect push sticks. Yes, the blade has hit them a few times, but it doesn't rip them out of my hand because of the length and where I'm holding them. Also, when my push stick needs to be close to the blade, I try to avoid hitting it, but mentally prepare just in case it does come in contact.
This was a great follow up video! Thank you James!
I would love to see you as a guest on 731’s live edge show sometime.
This happened to me once. It was a Bosch push stick with a hollowcore. I used the Dewalt, which is totally solid and have never had a problem.
Thanks for all the great content you put out.
Loved your comment on wooden push sticks. I am a middle school & highschool woodshop teacher in Upstate NY. Thays the first project my students do is make their own push stick. After 15 years I have found its a great way to cover defects, grain structure and equipment safety and build confidence on the band saw with my eighth graders.
Select their material, trace one of my templates, cut it out on the band saw, sand with the disc sander and spindle sander, palm sand the faces, drill a hanging hole in the handle and round over the edges at the router table. Great way to use up last year's scraps.
As always, another informative video. I'm a make them from scrap wood guy. I have assorted types, from the long notched stick to the lays on the top with a lip in the back, to suit the need. And I run pine push sticks through the blade all the time when cutting narrow stock. Just over to the bandsaw and cut a new notch when needed.
This is a good follow up to Matt’s video. To all the people that think Matt’s video was just to get clicks, I disagree. He was simply doing a demonstration on what could happen. Even though it didn’t happen. For some people that registers better than just being told it could happen.
731 is all about sales not woodworking he was good to watch till he went full time and woodworking stopped stumpy keep up you good work👍
The TH-cam woodworking community is quite a growing camp but way too many times I see videos wanting to make a visual statement rather than an intellectual statement. I guess everyone has their comfort zone in learning and communicating so it’s to be expected. Thanks for you being you James and not being comedic or outlandish in any safety conversations. I really appreciate your calm style and thoughts on so many important subjects. I know I will never see you hiding behind a sheet of plywood for protection and that is reassuring in improving my knowledge and experience.
I kind of feel like that was an unnecessary shot at 731 Toolworks. While I'm not a fan of his recent trend away from how-to towards product coverage, his bringing this to the forefront for discussion was admirable. His attempt to show a stick shattering is a valid teaching method to reinforce the risk, regardless of whether it feeds the TH-cam algorithm. And hiding behind plywood? Seems smarter than not doing so. And finally, his video did instigate this video and discussion.
There are many roles, methods of learning and presenting, and viewing preferences. Let's savor the abundance without denigrating those alternatives we don't prefer (but are still safe!).
@@DavZell I didn’t make that statement as a negative against 731. I made it as a comparison between James and 731 and that I enjoy James style of informing me better on a personal basis. I don’t like or need accident recreation videos to show me something that I can easily understand as it insults my intelligence. I would say the same about any craftsman who did the same. I also stated that everyone has their own style of communication and that is to be expected.
I do wish that Matt would give his viewers a break (pun intended) on the product endorsements and get back to his wood project videos. But now by using someone else’s tragedy to pitch a new product seems to exploit that injured woodworker for his own benefit first rather than to teach me the viewer. His demonstration was completely unnecessary and was just showmanship.
That sounds pretty negative to me.
@@markgallagher1376 I have nothing against Matt, his character or his channel. I enjoyed his channel back in the beginning more than I do today but I still watch most of it. Why should I be dishonest about my opinion? Why are you so defensive?
@@heystarfish100 I agree that 731’s old videos were much better. Now it’s all the free tools he has been sent and other online tool deals. You are allowed to have an opinion and to voice it! Matt from 731 voices his opinions, I voice mine, and you should too.
You and 731 are my "go to" woodworking channels. I always get good info from watching similar, but sometimes slightly different, takes on a wide range of topics. Always enjoy both channels. Good job James!
Thank you Doug!
The discussion is more important than the review.
Also respect supporting other TH-camrs, and small biz.
Thanks!
Hi James: I have watched your videos for a few years now and I really enjoy your content and your years of experience and knowledge. I have been working as a carpenter for a little over 40 years now and have been fortunate enough to never have experienced a kick back. I believe that a lot of problems can be avoided by having the blade raised only an eighth of an inch or so above your workpiece, and holding the push stick tight to the fence when ripping narrow stock. That way, very little of the push stick comes in contact with the blade. I also prefer homemade push sticks that put downward pressure on the workpiece as many others have commented. Thank you also for your finesse in handling this issue. John Jensen from British Columbia
This is why I like this channel. Some others have a tendency to gear towards absolutes or sensationalism to get views and comments. James always give the more nuanced but correct and helpful information in a calm and understanding manner. He’s an excellent teacher.
Another good video. Thanks for sharing. Never thought of the plastic explosion factor for a push stick and didn't see the other guys video. I did lose a sliding compound miter saw to a piece of PVC pipe that blew up when I was cutting some dust collection piping on it, so I get the brittle plastic factor. The discontinued lower blade guard took out a window in my shop and sent shards flying. Not my best day. Lots of dangerous stuff in a woodworking shop, so always good to think safety. PS - I have a contractor's grade 12" sliding compound miter saw from Craftsman for sale for anyone not interested in keeping all their fingers. 🤪
Woodworking for over 35 years and learnt that they can explode. Had it happen. Even had acrylic explode on my bandsaw a few months ago because it was a rip blade. Broke the blade as well. I still have plastic pushsticks and use them on the jointer but all my tools have two versions of plywood sticks made from baltic birch. Long handle version and shoe style. Make a router template and pump out a bunch at once. And like Norm said : there is no greater safety device than safety glasses.cheers.
Regarding comfortable push sticks. I use white caulk mixed with corn starch. Makes a dough like substance that, when cured, is soft and pliable. Make great coating for handles on push sticks.
Thanks to both of you for sharing your concerns and thoughts about the use of push sticks.
The first thing that came to my mind was the effect of temperature on the material characteristics of plastic. Many people have workshops that can't be adequately heated, or are only heated when in use. That means there will likely be occasions when the sticks are in use while the plastic is considerably colder than room temperature. Cold plastics are harder plastics (even plastics that are fairly soft at human-standard temperatures), and harder usually means more brittle.
It's a factor that's important to consider.
Great video. I had the cheap orange and black Amazon push stick and suffered a violent explosion of one of them when accidentally contacting the blade. The 2nd one went in the trash along with the pieces of the first one....I was lucky that all the shrapnel missed me and hit the shop wall 10 feet behind the saw.
I made two wooden push sticks several years ago. I painted the ends of them red just so I always know where they are as I advance my work into the blade. The ends of both sticks are all chewed up from touching the blade over the years, Better them then my fingers. Thanks for the video and the reminders.
First, I want to thank you for your careful explanations without a lot of drama and urgency in your voice. Every topic doesn't need a lot of hype to demonstrate. 731 is not the only one who does that. He's not even the only woodworking channel that does.
When I do use the table saw I have an old push stick cut from 3/4" plywood on the bandsaw. It has some nicks on the tip to show it's working to save my fingertips.
The primary push stick I use is made out of MDF. Not for any particular reason, it's just the scrap I had available at the time. I have run it over a blade before when I had to make a particularly difficult cut, and it basically just powdered away.
Only MDF for me. I have run into it lots of times and never knew it. Just turns into powder.
Yeah, I nicked the OEM Bosch worksite table saw push stick on the blade one time and it kicked back and shattered. The impact on the butt of my hand left a rather large gash and shattered the stick. There was a few moments of WTF, patched up my hand, and used a push block. This video clears up what happened. Thank you!
I believe the best push sticks are carefully home made with soft wood.
I also prefer your calm analysis and presentation over the more "sensational" presentations that some seem bent on making....
Good job James. Thanks for the follow-up.
Always a fan of your clarification videos! Safety is ALWAYS important. I came across another channel which I am also following now... Perkins Builder Brothers... After watching a few videos, I notice in some video's Jamie had all his fingers and in newer ones not. I wasn't brave enough to watch any of the videos documenting what happened but read an article about it... A planer with no guard. Whether you are a Pro or not... it just takes a second to change your life.
My favorite push stick is a large 1 foot nylon speed square. I carved out a notch in the end to make better contact while pushing. When it hits the blade it just cuts like plywood. Soft plastic is the best
I think this is an excellent presentation. Your approach to this and other subjects is measured and considered and you do not make over-generalized pronouncements. I have a gray plastic push stick that has accidentally hit the blade and it put a little saw blade notch in it just like in wood. And I’m sure, as you point out, there are some plastics that might shatter. In all fairness to the 731 Guy, he does have good presentations and I enjoy watching him too. He may tend to over generalize at times, but I still find his channel informative and well worth watching.
I subscribe to 731 as well as your channel and I think your video is the perfect follow up. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Well done as always.
Nicely presented. Calm, spoke clearly and slowly. Great job on a very important topic.
Excellent video. I’m a fan of plywood homemade push sticks because plywood is less likely to shatter than solid wood. That stick with the replaceable foam end is pretty cool, I have to admit.
I mean if you want a wood version of that you could do a lap cut on the wood stick and glue on a new wooden push end. Glue some dowels if you want to be fancy.
I honestly never had solid wood either softwood or hardwood shatter in my homemade push sticks. I always design the grain in the direction where it will be the strongest. Always made it with 3/4" thick lumber of whatever useless scrap I had sitting around. Only just recently tossed an wood push stick away because I cut out all of the usable wood out from my cuts.
My hands down to both of you. My self I always feel a bit concerned with a push stick. Pretty nice explanation. ( pwrsonal option)
I am always so thankful for your videos. I find your counsel to be trustworthy and enjoyable to watch. You are my favorite shop manager.
Excellent follow up! I love it when my favorite channels work together. Would definitely watch a 1hr+ conversation between you and 731! I am still recovering from a kickback incident (not severe) that almost ruptured two hernia repairs.
This actually happened to me just a couple of months ago using a push stick just like that which came with the saw stop.
Plastic is a bad option, I make my own out of wood and they always works fine
You make excellent points! I almost always have used wooden push sticks 'cause Pappy told me that they worked better. And, ya know, after dang near 65 years of wood working I've still got all me fingers and both thumbs.
My go to push stick is actually a push block made from a 2x4. Took about 10 minutes to create. The radius edges that 2x4 have are perfectly comfortable. I just sawed about 1/4 inch from the edge on one side with a band saw, and left a 6 inch toe. That is important, as I can run stock completely though with my hand completely behind the blade. If there is kickback, it won't draw my hand into it.
Thanks for a great follow up with more context. I use plywood to make push sticks. It will not shatter & grain direction don't matter much no matter how you slice it (pun intended).
My biggest problem with push stick comes with the saw is that the notch is very deep. It's more than 3/4" so if you are cutting 3/4" or less, it will make contact with the table top and dragging across. It often gets hung up just a little when you get to the throat plate. What' below the top of the board can come in contact with the saw blade easily because it's hard to see. When I make mine, I ensure it's 1/4" so the push stick will not touch the table top when I'm using it.
Thanks for posting this stumpy, I've learned something today that might just keep me safer. And thanks to the original video creator too ( a channel that's also well worth watching)
JLR Workshop- Stumpy, Thank you for some clarity. I watched Matt's video when it first came out and I concluded much the same as you about hardness (brittleness), and the safety issues that may be presented. Generally, I like his videos, and his channel, and consider them on about the same level as yours. I had never seen the Bow pushsticks, and was intrigued. You gave me some ideas on how to improve some of my wood sticks that I tend to lean toward.
Knocked it out of the park again! I do appreciate and trust your perspective on the topic (and other topics)... sensible, not trying to capture the spectacular, just informative. Keep up the great work! it does not go unnoticed as demonstrated by the 772k subscribers and the simple fact that when I have a question about something (yep, newbie here) I look to your videos first-especially when it comes to safety... you can't put a price on trust.
Great add to Matt's video! I always make sure there's plenty of clearance between the blade and fence for my push stick to clear before I make the cut. When it's too close, I switch to my thin push block that rides on the fence. One day I'll order some of the good bow brand push sticks.
Calm, rationale and intelligent presentation. That's what keeps me coming back.
I only use wood push sticks. I once had a Bosch push stick bump the blade and got a piece of plastic in my nose. I should add this happened when it was 10 degrees outside when I was cutting. So I would think temperature play a part.
Great video. My dad was a cabinet maker and made all his push sticks out of scrap, I remember seeing him just make a few when things were slow in the shop. It might be worth noting that plastics respond differently to different temperatures. A plastic that is soft in the summer might be brittle in the winter in an unheated shop.
Great video, James. We mostly know that brass, tin, lead, iron, etc are collectively referred to as “metal”. We understand that these each have unique characteristics and qualities. Less so when using the generic collective “plastic”. Most plastics are derived from hydrocarbon bases, and many have other composite materials added that greatly alter their characteristics, in the same way metal alloys do. So you gave the best advice - “Try to avoid hitting your saw blade with your push stick.”
Years ago I had my plastic push stick hit the blade. My fault all the way, but, did not "shatter" but it did jolt a bit. Luckily it did not come off the piece and kick the wood back at me. Went and made my own push sticks out of wood just in case. Funny part is I never hit the blade again since. That is a good thing. Great video.
I get the same amount of pleasure from making my push-sticks as I do with everything else I make. I am a woodworker.
The shop I worked in had 3 Delta table saws. They had been supplied with push sticks by the manufacturer when new, but they had earned their scars over time, and one had disappeared entirely at some point. So, I made some new ones...
Using one of the originals as a pastern, I marked them out on a piece of UHMW polyethylene. I cut them out on a band saw and four new push sticks were born. (That's one for each in the shop, and the one I took home for my own saw.)
They were quite stiff enough to push material through the saw, but if they did come in contact with the blade there was no shattering. In fact, I tested a piece and it didn't kick back, shatter, or anything - it was simply cut away smoothly.
My table saw came with a plastic push stick and a pattern to make more. So, I made several push sticks out of scrap 3/8 inch plywood using my hand held jig saw. I even glued pieces on either side and shaped a nice comfortable handle with the Dremel. It took maybe an hour. I'd like to make some thick plywood push blocks, but haven't yet decided on which design I want to use.
I've been using the same plastic push stick for almost 40 years. It has not even nicked the blade in that time. The simple rule is to not let your push stick get too close to the blade. If your cut is so narrow that the stick looks like it could contact the spinning blade, make a narrower push stick, or maybe one that rides along the fence for added safety.
This guy is as good as it gets.
I have a 3/4" wide plastic push stick (the plastic is firm but soft) but I also have made my own 3/16" thick push stick for thin rips. One thing I paid attention to was to round the end so it would not tend to dig into my hand if there ever was any kickback. I think that is really important. The curved handle design isn't just about comfort but so if there is kickback it will slide through your grip instead of pushing into your hand.
I can personally give credit to that point of sanding the edges rounded on the handle side. I had a flooring piece jam and fly back into my homemade wooden push stick(edge un-sanded). It ripped it down of my hand and some skin along with it on my index finger. All healed now but I got a faint scar mark which may go away.
PS: I'm definitely going to go sand the handles of my push sticks in a few days. Ruined sanding belt strips are perfect for rounding edges.
Calm and steady video as always with all the information we novices require
A few years ago, I bought a Grizzly hybrid table saw and it came with this red plastic push stick. One hit on the blade sent it flying out of my hand. Since then, it's only used to help snug the work piece against the fence and only before the blade. I've got a wooden push stick for actually pushing the stock through. Still, I'm respectfully nervous every time I get near the saw.
A sensible attitude. An Emergency doctor once told me that any circular saw can cut off a human finger in less time than it takes the owner of the finger to feel it happening. So whether it's a table saw or a hand held circular saw, I think about that every time I am about to use one and it keeps me careful.
Push blocks are better...
@@davidcurtis5398 I just bought my first push block on Amazon. Haven't used it yet, but it seems pretty impressive...
@@FireAngelOfLondon Table saws and radial arm saws are like motorcycles: the day you aren't a little scared of them, it's time to step away.
@@davidcurtis5398 Push blocks allow your hand over the blade and into the red zone.
Great tip and great information, delivered professionally. Your channel is routinely one of the best all-around productions on YT. Thanks for your work.
Thanks for this video! I watched 731 video and thought wow you must be pushing that bow push stick hard. Thanks again for your comments.
Worth noting that plastics often get more brittle with age, so your push stick that was kinda hard but did cut safely last year, may well shatter tomorrow.
Good point
it depends on the chemistry of the specific plastic, but yes, many cheap polymers will become brittle due to uv exposure
What a great vid. My push stick came with my De walt table saw 15 plus years ago, like the grey one in your video. I think a slightly bendable plastic will not fly to pieces.
I go by "if in any known doubt DON'T"
I've still got all ten digits, I intend to keep it that way.
Martin. UK
I don't use "chicken foot" push sticks. I had a kickback incident that scared the crap out of me. I was pushing thin plywood through the saw using one of those. The board on the other side of the blade came up and straight back at me. So I studied push sticks for a long time and abandoned the long chicken foot. I made instead a push stick out of plywood with a long reach and handle up high away from the blade. I can put downward pressure on more of the board than the chicken foot allows and I've never had that happen again. I made these long-reach push sticks out of different thicknesses of plywood. So far I have been able to avoid the blade, but I can cut out a new pusher on the bandsaw in a few minutes. And the ability to put downward pressure on more of the board makes me feel better about making these cuts, especially on thinner material. I saw Matt's video and was interested to see your comment. Thanks for the good information!
I really like the Matthias Wandel design, very similar to the Bow shape/function but Matthias' video shows why using them in pairs work really well.
2 of my favorite people on TH-cam. Always great stuff.
I am thankful you made this video, thanks for making this... my current push sticks are oak with the grain sticks. I like that stick you showed with the replacement tip, I think making wood inserts for that could be very easy to make with a simple paper wrap to make sure it doesn't fall out for pennies per replacement.
One of the first things we made in shop class was plywood push sticks.
Thanks for the heads up.
I normally use wood sticks but I do own a LV Dual-Tread Push Stick ( 03J7550) which I find excellent. Has a rubber foot and also provides a downward force that may stop kick backs
I've used a modified pool noodle on a stick for years - never had a problem with any of this and totally cheap to replace.
That might fire off a Saw Stop!
Years ago, I picked up a pair of plastic "chicken foot" push sticks from Menards. I tried them but I'm not crazy about them for the very reason of discussion in this video. I lean more toward the legendary Matthias Wandell wooden push stick design which he inherited with a saw that he bought. I do not use push sleds at all like the ones Colin Knecht or John Heisz use. If those kick back then my hand is jammed with something relentless that will snap bones. I think they're a trap. Over the past 50 years in the woodshop, I came up with my own design as I'm sure a lot of woodworkers have.
Thanks for the video! I will say that after finding and using the Migro-Jig Grrriper, I haven't looked back at pushsticks!
Another reasonable response from Stumpy Nubs and some good info.
Thank you very much for reminding us even woodworking safety equipment can become a dangerous projectile - or damaging shrapnel.
And seeing 731's improvised shielding, it appears he could do with a decent flak jacket or lab safety suit for future demonstrations.
Yes I could🤣
Great video, to add I was unfortunate and just tagged my push stick on the blade while cutting a 2x4 and it completely shattered giving me 5 stitches in my hand, a very scary event. The push stick was the one supplied by the manufacturer of the table saw. I wont mention the manufacturer but it was one of the better brands. I now only use wood home made push sticks.
It's not just the plastic...it's the molder. Many injection molding shops are in the business of turning out parts as quickly as possible. They run the tools and plastic at the lowest possible temperatures and make up for it by running high pressures. This low temp/high pressure approach leads to high residual stresses in the parts...which are waiting (like a curved piece of wood) to let go when they get cut. In extreme cases, the internal stresses can cause the cheap plastic parts to fail with little to no load.
This makes so much sense. I can imagine how those plastics feel and I feel like I'd be able to figure out what would shatter. I cant say that I ever thought about it like this before though. I'm definitely going to have to look up that push stick though
Very good video. I've been using the cheap hard plastic push stick that came with my saw thinking I was safe if it hit the blade. I just ordered one of those pro sticks with a couple extra replacement tips. $4 is cheap insurance compared to sewing something back on.
if you like a push stick. I don't...
@@davidcurtis5398 I'm not saying I like them, but right now my "table saw" is one that my father in law purchased at Lowes on closeout 10 years ago for $50. I don't have the setup to use my real saw as it's 220. That one is a 1946 Delta Unisaw. Plans are in motion to get a new 400 amp service for my place in the spring.
I'm using the table saw my father bought over 70 years ago. It is a Craftsman and is still going strong. I also have a Grizzly table saw. The older saw has the motor that hangs off of the back and the belt tension is the weight of the motor. Dad would use the same motor for all of his tools. His saw, his joiner, and the shaper. The drill press had its own motor.
@@covishen Woops, forgot the belt sander.
@@davidcurtis5398 those old saws really do good work. But they do need cared for. That unisaw has a motor that weighs 50 pounds, and is rated at 3/4 HP, there are 3 V belts driving the blade and I have never seen that saw bog down. That said, there are no safeties, i'm currently looking for some kind of blade shroud and new fence.
Love both of these channels 731 and stumpy
Thank you PJ
This was a great follow up to Matt's video. Thank you
the bow pushsticks and featherboards are great
I've got a few push sticks I made out of some scrap maple from a place I used to work at. I also made a bunch of osb ends for them that I don't mind sacrificing to the blade of necessary and just have a couple screws that hold them on. Different handle shapes for them depending on the task at hand. Good video man. Too many go for the clickbait and go nuts with all kinds of stuff. You are bringing sanity to the safety aspect of things and thanks for that. Keep doing your thing.
I designed a push stick that uses a replaceable plywood foot. I made a dozen feet for it from various offcuts at once and now I can replace it whenever I feel the need.
Thanks James. I like the way you brake things down and make people think. 👍🏻
I switched to push blocks a long time ago: I happen to have a few sections of rubber horse stall mat that, when fastened to the bottom of a stack of wood, you can run straight over the table saw blade. They don't smell as good as wood when cutting, but it means I'm always in secure contact with the wood at multiple points. I imagine they're just a little bit less grippy than the high density foam, but a similar design fundamentally
The first thing i made with my wood working tools back in 1970 was a red oak push stick.
Still have it today.
James, as always, a well measured logical approach to tools and their uses. Thanks
Refrigerate push stick overnight and it will shatter like shrapnel if it is a cheap bad push stick or if by chance your woodworking equipment is in the garage during the winter time and you go out for one quick cut yes the push sticks will shatter if they are plastic and if you use the freezer you'll have to clean up a mess but up in Montana as a kid I saw many things shatter from just the cold