Just some fyi for those who might be interested. I crack the bleeder screw and compress the pistons before I take the caliper off. That way I get rid of some old and possibly rusty brake fluid. I take a cheap meat injector from Walmart and suck the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder as well and put new stuff in. That way when I top off the master cylinder again and bleed the brakes it's all new fluid going though. It's good to bleed your brakes annually especially if you have cold winters. It's also a good time to adjust your parking brakes when you put your new rotors on because the slots on the inside can be a pain in the arse. Thanks for taking the time to make this video you had me rolling when you mentioned kicking bolts to oblivion🤣
Thanks for the video. I did similar job on my 2008 about 6 years ago. I needed new rotors and pads as saltwater ruined them. I should have also done parking brake shoes and hardware kit at that time. Since my parking brake can't hold the truck on a boat ramp, I need to work on them. Going in again, this time only doing the shoes and hardware. With axle out, I should be able to adjust brakes while spinning the rotor. Thanks!
Good video buddy, gonna be hitting my soon. Compressing those pistons on the calliper I was waiting for that C clamp to get tossed across the lawn followed by a barrage of foul language when that brake pad kept falling off. 😂
for anyone buying their parts from a store like autozone or advance auto, compare prices. advance auto has the seal for $45.99 while auto zone has the exact same part with the exact same part number for $16.99
Good Video don't surely know what your occupation is. I was a ASE certified master mechanic. I have some pro tips. 1pack the bearings like you did but with axel assembly grease. Its specific to this application. 2Brake clean the parking brake assembly I inspect assembly for any damage. Brake grease the lands where shoes ride on backing plate thin film. 3With new axel gear lube coat the spindle and threads then install Rotor wheel hub assembly. 4this is extremely important Bearing preload. Depending on the axel and vehicle manufacturer torque specs vary. You must with the socket for the bearing retaining nut. Torque to specified ftlbs. Now here is where it can vary after spinning the wheel to seat bearings verify torque spin again. Generally you back off the retaining nut between 45° to 135° turn determined by spec. Then retorque between 10 to 30 ftlbs by spec for the manufacturer. Believe it or not that key hole will be perfect to really close enough to install the key. 5 where the stainless clips go on the caliper bracket those mating surfaces on the bracket need to be wire brushed clean of dirt and oxidation then a thin film of brake grease applied then install the clips. Install bracket. 6Brake clean and wipe all dirt from inside the Caliper where shoes touch the flange and pistons areas. Inspect piston boots please. After passing inspection compress pistons. Wire brush caliper flange where outer brake shoe mates carefully clean pistons with out touching boots, lube a film of brake grease on pistons and caliper flange where brake pads will mate to caliper. Install pads to caliper bracket install caliper and with a Torque wrench tighten to spec every mounting bolts for safety reasons period. 7wheel lug torque is to be rechecked between 50 to 100 miles no later unless you don't mind buying new 19.5 Alcoas beautiful wheels by the way. My biggest concern here is proper thread locker like you did and a Torque wrench on all fasteners to specified torque. Why because your showing people how to maintain in a area where proper assembly and fastener tightening is a safety protocol. If your not going to show this being done a written disclaimer and verbal in the video must be done. I enjoyed watching your humor was very good and comical. I believe your video gives a solid foundation to DIY the maintenance. Nice work
The video creator showed the shade tree way to do this job. As a professional technician I would have preloaded that bearing properly. Then again, I worked on vehicles that hauled equipment, 5th wheel RVs, and cargo. As a shop owner, if I saw this and he didn't preload I would explain and show the proper preload. If I caught it a second time I would have ran him off. Wheel offs do occur and often. Not preloading causes wheel offs to occur.
This was uploaded on my previous channel and had lots of views from viewers like yourself. I couldn't transfer the comments unfortunately. Thanks for watching.
Again, you do not grease pack the bearing, the grease will contaminate the gear oil. The gear oil is forced to the bearing by the centrifugal force of the rotation of the axles. Gear oil is specifically designed for your differential and grease will change that balance. Especially if you have minimal slip and there no such thing it only a little bite.
Awesome video!!! As others have commented, "wish I'd seen this before I started." I do have a question though. The inner seal, is there any chance that is may only come out in a couple of pieces? When i did mine, I had the destroyed bearing just as your video showed, but there was still a seal in place holding the bearing. Both sides came off the same way. I'm a bit concerned at this point.......................😟
If the race of the bearing is damaged or has discoloration, I wouldn't replace it. The seal always falls apart due to heat cycles and losing strength over time.ifbbtherebis any question of its integrity just replace it, you are already deep in the repair, might as well.
Just out of curiosity-is it Ok to pack the bearings with grease even though oil will be in there eventually? Planning on doing this very job and I’m used to packing bearings 100%, but just was curious.
The grease is to make sure it is lubed until the oil can make to to the ends of the axle. The oil will break the grease down and the grease will become oil after some heat cycle.
Just some fyi for those who might be interested. I crack the bleeder screw and compress the pistons before I take the caliper off. That way I get rid of some old and possibly rusty brake fluid. I take a cheap meat injector from Walmart and suck the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder as well and put new stuff in. That way when I top off the master cylinder again and bleed the brakes it's all new fluid going though. It's good to bleed your brakes annually especially if you have cold winters. It's also a good time to adjust your parking brakes when you put your new rotors on because the slots on the inside can be a pain in the arse. Thanks for taking the time to make this video you had me rolling when you mentioned kicking bolts to oblivion🤣
Excellent and comprehensive video definitely deserves more likes.👍
You’re so funny talking about special tool 😂🤣😂…. Good job 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. I did similar job on my 2008 about 6 years ago. I needed new rotors and pads as saltwater ruined them. I should have also done parking brake shoes and hardware kit at that time. Since my parking brake can't hold the truck on a boat ramp, I need to work on them. Going in again, this time only doing the shoes and hardware. With axle out, I should be able to adjust brakes while spinning the rotor. Thanks!
That's a really good and helpful video. I do have a 2018 and should be doing this next weekend. Thanks a lot, Sir!
Good video buddy, gonna be hitting my soon. Compressing those pistons on the calliper I was waiting for that C clamp to get tossed across the lawn followed by a barrage of foul language when that brake pad kept falling off. 😂
I was about 2 attempts away from doing just that!
The instructions are great. I’m trying to get the rotor with the whole slinger attachment out but it is stuck on the pistol. What should I do?
Excellent video! Thank you!
It’s excellent video thank for your work. And excellent explanation
for anyone buying their parts from a store like autozone or advance auto, compare prices. advance auto has the seal for $45.99 while auto zone has the exact same part with the exact same part number for $16.99
Good Video don't surely know what your occupation is. I was a ASE certified master mechanic. I have some pro tips.
1pack the bearings like you did but with axel assembly grease. Its specific to this application.
2Brake clean the parking brake assembly I inspect assembly for any damage. Brake grease the lands where shoes ride on backing plate thin film.
3With new axel gear lube coat the spindle and threads then install Rotor wheel hub assembly.
4this is extremely important Bearing preload. Depending on the axel and vehicle manufacturer torque specs vary. You must with the socket for the bearing retaining nut. Torque to specified ftlbs. Now here is where it can vary after spinning the wheel to seat bearings verify torque spin again. Generally you back off the retaining nut between 45° to 135° turn determined by spec. Then retorque between 10 to 30 ftlbs by spec for the manufacturer. Believe it or not that key hole will be perfect to really close enough to install the key.
5 where the stainless clips go on the caliper bracket those mating surfaces on the bracket need to be wire brushed clean of dirt and oxidation then a thin film of brake grease applied then install the clips. Install bracket.
6Brake clean and wipe all dirt from inside the Caliper where shoes touch the flange and pistons areas. Inspect piston boots please. After passing inspection compress pistons. Wire brush caliper flange where outer brake shoe mates carefully clean pistons with out touching boots, lube a film of brake grease on pistons and caliper flange where brake pads will mate to caliper. Install pads to caliper bracket install caliper and with a Torque wrench tighten to spec every mounting bolts for safety reasons period.
7wheel lug torque is to be rechecked between 50 to 100 miles no later unless you don't mind buying new 19.5 Alcoas beautiful wheels by the way.
My biggest concern here is proper thread locker like you did and a Torque wrench on all fasteners to specified torque. Why because your showing people how to maintain in a area where proper assembly and fastener tightening is a safety protocol. If your not going to show this being done a written disclaimer and verbal in the video must be done.
I enjoyed watching your humor was very good and comical. I believe your video gives a solid foundation to DIY the maintenance. Nice work
The video creator showed the shade tree way to do this job. As a professional technician I would have preloaded that bearing properly. Then again, I worked on vehicles that hauled equipment, 5th wheel RVs, and cargo.
As a shop owner, if I saw this and he didn't preload I would explain and show the proper preload. If I caught it a second time I would have ran him off.
Wheel offs do occur and often. Not preloading causes wheel offs to occur.
Great Video! Thanx
Really good video thanks ill do this on my own too and save some money
Great video.
Very well explained thanks
I used a hub puller to pull the rotor off i think my seals are still good. I could be wrong
Great video really appreciate it!
NICE VIDEO!!!
This was uploaded on my previous channel and had lots of views from viewers like yourself. I couldn't transfer the comments unfortunately. Thanks for watching.
What were the torque specs…?
Again, you do not grease pack the bearing, the grease will contaminate the gear oil. The gear oil is forced to the bearing by the centrifugal force of the rotation of the axles. Gear oil is specifically designed for your differential and grease will change that balance. Especially if you have minimal slip and there no such thing it only a little bite.
Awesome video!!! As others have commented, "wish I'd seen this before I started." I do have a question though. The inner seal, is there any chance that is may only come out in a couple of pieces? When i did mine, I had the destroyed bearing just as your video showed, but there was still a seal in place holding the bearing. Both sides came off the same way. I'm a bit concerned at this point.......................😟
If the race of the bearing is damaged or has discoloration, I wouldn't replace it. The seal always falls apart due to heat cycles and losing strength over time.ifbbtherebis any question of its integrity just replace it, you are already deep in the repair, might as well.
dude your video and how you explain thanks 👍
No problem, Thanks for watching and I have quick videos that will make you laugh about these repairs. Check the description.
Can you post where you find your torque specs please?
What was the torque spec on the axel bolts? I’m doing my oil seals and can’t find the specs for the 2012 HD Dually.
Just out of curiosity-is it Ok to pack the bearings with grease even though oil will be in there eventually? Planning on doing this very job and I’m used to packing bearings 100%, but just was curious.
The grease is to make sure it is lubed until the oil can make to to the ends of the axle. The oil will break the grease down and the grease will become oil after some heat cycle.
hey, did you put more oil back in the axle when you were done?
After driving it around to move the oil to the edges of the axles, I checked the level. I was still at the proper level in the rear end.
I guess I should've watched this before I did this earlier today lol. I reused the old seals and didn't grease bearings, DOH!
And didn't use lock-tite
How'd it work out?
what is that ring assembly @18:27 called? the flange on mine is broken
The seal or the tall metal ring?
Usually referred to as a tone ring, or rear wheel abs tone ring.
What is the seal part number?
Use Rock Auto for the correct year and model of your truck.
@@InsightLandCare i cant find that paper gasket anywhere help please i have even called the dealer and no help
I literally googled this and it's the gasket you need for the axle. "rock auto ram 3500 axle seal"
Commentary really made the video lol😅
No torque specs really!
Watch the video, I explain why.
Use less video
Gudt eunt tete!