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Perfect Bound Book Block - 1 of 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2011
- This is a way to make a strong binding of sheets of paper. The spine gets sawn-in cords and is lacerated to give more surface for the glue to grab onto.
It is important for the bound edge to be running parallel with the grain of the paper. If your planned book has the grain running the wrong way through the printer, you could buy larger paper and cut it with the grain running correctly before printing. If the book is large and the paper is light weight the grain may not be as important. It is more important when the book is smaller. Books always open easier and are more usable when the grain is running parallel to the spine.
Thank you. You are the BEST teacher on any subject on youtube.
This is the best course of binding instructions on TH-cam.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
This is the absolutely BEST instructional video on the book making subject I have ever seen. THANKS! I'd love to see some more.
Oh, Ok, Sage. I found your Japanese binding video. Thanks so much. You are so easy to understand.
Fascinating. Looking forward to part 2.
I'm still waiting for part 3, the actual "binding in the hard cover" video. I would really like to see the finished product. Your videos got me back into book binding and for that I'm grateful.
Looks really perfect.
Wow, this was excellent and very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
You have done a great job. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. I have lots of scraps of paper that are evenly cut, and this would be a fun technique to try with them.
I generally dislike machine-made perfect binding due to it's low durability, but this looks like it'd last much longer.
Nice video, looking forward to part two. :)
As the title says , Perfect
very nice video!
Thanks, I use a jeweler's saw when I do my metal work, the hack saw, in a few pushes makes a 3 sided groove that fits the thick sewing cord perfectly. A jewelers saw, with the fine blade would require much more work to achieve the proper groove for insetting the cord. Hacksaw roughness also gives the glue more surface area with which to hold the pages together. A clean cut isn't as advantageous in this case.
Thanks for watching.
Attach a soft cover by gluing it fast to the spine. Then crease the front and back about .25" from the spine and glue it down to the endpapers. You could also glue the entire endpaper to the cover. I have covered books with thin leathers and light card.
Cut the cover material larger than the book and trim to fit like I do to the endpapers in part 2.
great thanks for you video.
Good, and thanks for watching.
Not too shabby. Instead of the hacksaw, if you feel it gives you too much bite while going back and forth, perhaps a jeweler's saw would be better? I use it for cutting steel wire to get a nice fine and clean cut, but since the teeth are much more fine, it may make life easier cutting the notches in the paper as well.
Hi Sage- thanks for all your videos. Question. When cutting the spine on "perfect binding" I was taught to cut across the spine at an
angle of 45 degrees rather than just straight across. Looking at a cross section of the spine -cutting just across still allows the
pages to be pulled straight out (towards the foredge ) whereas if cut at 45 degrees it is impossible to do so
unless the page is ripped- the threads prevents it doing so. Would like your opinion on this please- does your crosshatching cuts do just as good as the 45 degrees cuts? Have you done a video on zigzag endpapers? Again- thanks for all the time spent on passing on your wealth of bookbinding skills to us amateurs out there. John from 'downunder"
I have bound the equivalent of a ream of paper with this method, 2.5" thick. You could go thicker. Be sure that the grain of thicker paper runs parallel to the spine.
You can use folded paper but not signatures as the inner folios would not be in contact with glue to hold together. folded sheets, printed on one side can be bound on the open edge to make pages like a French fold book.
I try to keep the segments together by giving them the same title, a simple search should bring up the titles together. TH-cam has an unusual way of listing the videos, probably because they want the viewers to explore.
Thanks for watching, hope you got to part 2. I seem to have left the word 'block' out of the part 2 title.
Thanks so much for your great instruction. Now maybe I can go with the old book I'm repairing. Do you also have an instruction video that includes a hard spine piece that is separated from the cover that you use the bone folder with? Not sure what it's called. The old book I'm repairing was stapled when made and I want to do the 4 hole Japanese style.
La tela se llama mull o crash o tarlitan, es una gasa de algodón que ha sido almidonado. Usted debe ser capaz de comprar en una tienda de arte (grabadores usarlo para limpiar platos), en la línea de Talas-online. También se puede utilizar una gasa almidonada de almacenes de la tela, se utiliza para rigidizar cuellos de las camisas.
This is the best set of videos I've seen about handmade perfect binding. I have a few questions though.
Would this technique work with folded sheets (gluing the folds together) and is there any advantage of doing it this way?
Is there a maximum size for this way of binding? I want to bind a 3" thick book with heavier paper.
How would you attach a soft cover to this block?
If you don't have time to answer these questions, I understand. Your video is already so helpful.
Thanks!
Can i perfect bind folded spine edges of folios instead of sewing please?
Sage, if you decide to do a softcover video, I'm having a problem. I glued up the inner book (8.5x11") I have my cover printed on glossy photo paper. Could you show the workflow of binding the cover and having end papers? The inside of the cover has the Epson watermark all over it and want a way to cover that. Any suggestions? Thanks again. I'm getting close.
I won't be able to make a video for about a month, too busy here with metal projects.
Make folded folios of colored/plain paper the size of your book and tip the end papers on as I have done in another video. Your cover material should wrap around the book block with an inch to spare on both fore edges. Find the center and a little to the left of that score a giude line with a folder and straight edge. Tip a line of glue onto the front, spine edge of the Front end paper, lay that against the scored line on the cover material. Holding the book in position, lift the cover material an set the spine with a folder on the outside of the book, pressing the cover material against the spine. Lay the cover material down again and apply glue to the spine and a little on to the back end paper (you may need to use a brush). Bring the cover material into contact with the spine rub it down with your folder, pulling the cover material it toward the fore edge. Rub down the back of the book, you should now have a cover attached to the book. Lay the book down, open the cover material and score a line on the inside of the cover material so that you can fold it inside to the size of the book, do front and back, then tip the end papers down to the folded edge/end of the cover. If you have a front photo/title, trim and mount that onto the front of the book, I would recommend twintak rather than a wet adhesive in case your cover material stretches.
That's about the best I can do without a video, good luck!
***** Thank you, Sage. I'll look for Trwntak today.
I have a project, to perfect bind a thin book, 12 heavy pages. Would I approach it the same as here? Or would you glue up the booklet differently. Thanks!
It all depends on the format of the book, whether the grain of the paper is parallel to the spine and just how heavy the paper is. I would try it the same way as in the video, if the pages pull out or break from each other I would side stitch (staple) the spine attach end papers and then make a soft cover by tipping it first to the back spine then folding the cover around the spine and tipping it to the front. Then fold the cover material at the fore edges and tip the end paper to that to finish the binding. I should probably do a video as a demonstration. Haven't done a paper cover, Thanks for asking and for watching.
***** Thanks, I'm doing a test now. This is an art book for an exhibit. So inkjet printed glossy paper, about 12 sheets, but if we go single sided prints 20ish pages 8.5x11. I can print large glossy inkjet, 11x17 (I can print a bit larger of a bleed to cover the spine. I'd like to add end papers so the inside cover doesn't have the "epson" watermark. I need to do 7 books.
Your videos have been very helpful. I'm going to shop for PVA/ROLLER/TRAY tomorrow.
Can unsized muslin be used as the mull?
I just watched my video again and when the suggested videos filled the screen at the end, part 2 was in the first place for next video.
What kind of brayer do you use for the glue? What a great way to apply glue!
please watch my glue and roller basics video, it answers that and shows the set up for efficient gluing of all kinds of projects. Thanks for watching and Happy New Year.
Hi Sage,
I've been studying many, many book-binding videos for a future project I'm planning. Thanks for making so many carefully produced examples.
Have you ever bound a bunch of comic books together?
What do you think would be the best method? Perfect?
Many thanks
Rob
Thanks for watching!
Could you drill fine wholes instead of sawing and then weave the thread? I realize that would not allow the book to open flat and reduce the margin inside but would it be safer and/or longlasting? Just wondering. I have a "perfect" bound Zondervan Bible and was thinking about rebinding.
+Virtual Math If you drill holes and weave the thread through the spine, you are essentially making a Japanese Binding. If your Bible needs rebinding, I suggest that you set it into a clamp/press and re finish the spine, sawing-in cords and reline the spine with fresh paper. That way you lose less of the gutter of the book when opened and the spine is strengthened. Drilling and weaving will use a lot of the gutter and put the type too close, or even hide it, when the book is opened.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you. I did find some information about a japanese binding and I fully agree about the spacing of the gutter. Another thought I had was to saw as you recommended and drill a fine whole at the of the saw cut. Then put few passes of thread so not to come out that should provide a solid solution. Thank you again for your response.
Great video, am going to try this, but first, what kind of sewing cord did you use?
I am using binders linen thread a thick version, You can use heavy linen thread or button thread if you don't have access to binding materials. Online try talas online for binding supplies. Thanks for watching.
@@Ceropegia Thanks for the quick reply!
Utilizo texto Arches puesto. pero se puede utilizar cualquier tipo de papel de peso medio siempre y cuando el grano corre paralelo a la columna vertebral.
Gracias por su atención.
Just curious, do I have to use the OLFA knife or will my X-ACTO blade do? Thanks for the tutorial
The xacto knives are awkward to hold and the blades not only have to be changed but they are often not designed for cutting like we do in binding. Especially the curved blades, they can easily jump the straight edge and cut your fingers badly. I never allowed xactos in my classes for that reason. The olfa is a continuous blade that can be snapped off when it gets dull. The square handle also lets you know exactly where the cut is going by maintaining the same angle for the length of the cut, that is difficult with a round handle. For single pieces an xacto may suit you, but if you go into a job that needs a lot of cutting, get an olfa. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the reply :) I'll look into an OLFA but for this single project I may just stick to my X-ACTO.
***** One more question: Where do you get a headband or headband material? Or do I really need a headband for the hardback book?
Open .Aperture
Head band material can be purchased on line from Talas online, any library supplier should have some if you know of any. You can also make your own to match your covering material, I show you how in making Headbands and Rounding the Spine Video.
Have fun.
Sage
Absolutely loved your videos! Mr. Reynolds, if I provided the hardback cover and shipped it to you, would your place the paper into the cover for me? At a cost of course! I would be eternally grateful to you. Thank you . Pamela
Usted puede utilizar casi cualquier tipo de papel para cubrir los consejos de un libro. Paño Libro, especialmente con soporte de papel es lo que yo recomiendo. Mira Talas-online. Papel de pared podría funcionar, todo lo que puedo decir que para probarlo y ver cómo funciona. ¡Buena suerte!
Yo no hablo español - Estoy utilizando Google Translate
wonderfull, this is great ,thanks for this video.if u want some one to help u may be i,m here.
Sage, i'm realy amazing for your videos. I just miss the video or you show how to fix the book to the cover with the guards. I am certain that you can teach me of show me the tricks very useful .This video already exsiste maybe? Thank you. (Message from France, Forgiveness for my English)
The guards are cut from a finished book. You can see how to put the book into its cover/case by watching Making a Case and Casing in. I have done it in at least two videos. There is also a video about cutting the guards out of the book. Please look at the list of videos in my channel, you will find a lot there to answer your questions. Thank you for watching!
Hi Sage, It was succesfull to see you're video Making a Case and Casing in. Now i have a nice sketchbook. Thanks a lot.
I love your glue brush...oh, you didn't use one...you used your finger to smooth the glue! God gave us 10 glue spreaders and it amazes me how many people use awkward brushes that really don't do what's needed, when they are wearing all they need; easy to clean and mold to the materials perfectly.
Your video is very precise and informative and I will be using this for those who request info on "how to perfect bind" at affordablebindingequipment.com.
One change I have made to insetting the cords is to cut them at 90 deg. like you did but tilt the saw sideways so that you are in effect creating a dovetail, as in woodworking (my profession). Insert cords, and even with no glue, the pages won't come out; they care captured by the cords.
What are the materials?
PVA, Tarlitan or 'Mull', Arches text laid for lining paper, linen binder's sewing thread, head band material. I tell you in the video as I use the material.
Thanks for watching.
How many books per hour please?
You have asked this question before , please see my answer there. This question makes no sense.
pues pense que era tu esposa jajajajjja, pues mucho cuidado con el gato, yo tengo 4 y se portan bien 4 chicas, blanca, negra y 2 rubias.
No se daña sólo de vez en cuando hirió a jugar con mi gato.
tus manos estàn dañadas
I've never had any success with PVA. I started using EVA which works better in my opinion.
Sam Sammut Sam ~I’ve not heard of EVA ~ can you please tell me what it is and what kind of store to get it from!?
You should have made it simpler to find the Part 2 of your videos.
Dude, just use a rasp.