First of all, this is amazing and utterly mesmerizing, but also the pspspsps sounds of the glue being applied at super-speeds during the Bradel binding part are killing me. I love it.
Brother, you are doing a great service for/to us your viewers; and likewise for those not yet born. You are preserving our fathers’ and grandfathers’ skills in trades which might very well become otherwise lost to time perhaps forever. Keep up your excellent work!
As I am taking my notes on an e-ink tablet, while watching this on a 4k oled display, I must applaud. In no time at all I will undoubtedly drop and break this tablet and upgrade to the next display. However the books that I bind and keep proudly displayed will remain, they may even outlast me if I have been raising my kids right. I see paper wasted all the time, and treated as disposable within an hour of printing at work, so i try to put that information out digitally when I can. But certain things just feel right in a book. I know nobody else has a library like mine. Much respect and cheers for doing what you do.
Thanks for this tutorial! I've always wanted to get into book binding so this was a great intro, did my first practice run today using just paper and cardboard, wood glue, and an x-acto knife and some wood planks and clamps, but fairly happy with the results from following this, thank you for the chance to learn.
Thank you for this..I've wanted to put my D&D sheets together. My dm makes maps and little letters and stuff and I wanted to print and bind them. Your videos are awesome, easy to follow and understand :)
I am going to rebind some old books that have broken spines and destroyed covers for use in my games since the interiors are fine! As A DM, I am thinking of putting my homebrew world into a book form someday too! There's so much potential....like gamers have so much free time!
Thank you as I have been taking certified bookbinding courses and I had yet to see how to deal with the simple text block that a printer hands me. I am so grateful for your shared knowledge.
You know... I've already told you this in other ways, but your channel is my go to by default. Here I get all the answers and even extra tips from a professional approach. But it's not only the technical aspect, it is the peculiar and delightful atmosphere of being in medieval times; this is alchemical-bookbinding, and all this music is awesome; lute or classical guitar is also one of my favorite choice to make books because it puts you in that atmosphere (although I'm not sure if classical guitar reaches the middle age, but you get my point). Thank you for all these experiences and teachings Maestre, I mean it. Cheerio!
Thanks to this channel I started to bind my books, I finally got the idea on how to do it. Please keep on good work. These are the best tutorials on bookbinding ever.
I went back to this video as I have seven fifty-ninety. page machinist book of old to repair and rebind. The refresher was quite informative Thank you for your effort..
Used this for my second book, a copy of "Conservation Book Repair, a Training Manual" by Artemis BonaDona. I just printed out the PDF double-sided on a standard laser printer, did the double-fan binding, trimmed it, and then made a square back bradel case following your other video on that topic. I was a little too aggressive when trimming; some of the illustrations are quite far up against the right margin, and I wound up trimming about 1mm off of them. Whoops. But it's still entirely usable. The binding came out well, I think. It seems strong. Casing in proved more difficult with a larger text block, and it came out slightly crooked. The pastedowns were fine at the head, but almost flush with the foredge of the case at the tail side. I wish I had used paste instead of mix for casing in, it might have afforded me enough working time to fix that. Oh, well. It opens and closes fine, and it lays flat. So I can't complain too much. In the event that it breaks down after a couple years' use, I'll just bind up another copy. Hopefully a better one. I took it to my workplace -- a library -- and we're adding it to the catalog. It's scheduled to live in our conservation room. Our current book repair person had no previous experience, and has been learning on the job almost exclusively based on notes from her predecessor in between assorted other tasks. I am hopeful this will help her dive a little deeper into that aspect of her job.
I've been watching your book binding videos after stumbling upon them about a week ago. They're great, and I love the way you concentrate on the technique and don't try to dazzle with fancy effects and editing. And it's always a joy to see somebody using a tool made in my home city (I'll be getting myself a Flinn Garlick tenon saw when I can next travel back to the UK).
I love that saw. I believe the same saw is sold under a few different names. Now you have me curious and I'm going to look for photos of the factory the internet. Ciao, DAS
Excellent. That method of applying the glue is ingenious. It is tips like that make your videos so watchable . Your voice over at the end surprised me as I had turned up the volume and was enjoying listening to the Goldbergs on the headphones!
Thanks John. I recommend grabbing Jon's recording of the Goldberg variations. They've attracted another spurious copyright violation notice. Since TH-cam doesn't seem inclined to protect small creators, I'm going to be limited in what I can use in the future.
I wanted to make a photo book for a wedding but couldn’t find book binding technique for single sheets. Then i found your channel! You showed me the way!! Thank you so much ❤. I really appreciate the step by step tutorial and explanations❤
Darryn !! You are a joy to watch in your work. I have several Indian bound books that are now out of print in this manner. Thank you for all you do for us here on youtube.
Thank you so much. My sister has spent 30 years researching familly history and best part of a year typing it up. I said I would bind it for her, expecting A4 Portrait! I have an A3 printer but need A2 printer to do a stitched A4 landscape print. Help! And now you have completely solved my problems. And you thank me for watching it! I do hope you really know how much help and shear joy you give to so many people.
Oh and the humble way that you take every opportunity to give credit to the people that developed the techniques. You are an inspirationsl human being. And on top of that playing Papa Bach's music. Life is such joy today!
It would still be good to find an office works type printer to print it on A2 and have them trim it. It sounds like it deserves a sewn binding. Not trying to make life hard for you. Just saying:)
Just wanted to say THANK YOU so much for your content! I started binding my comic books together into volumes and this has been so much help! I'm just getting started in this hobby and your videos are going to be my go-to as I progress!
Your video was a joy to watch! I am very new to bookbinding and enjoy watching seasoned book binders as yourself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Very nicely done -- it's always a pleasure to see good craftsmanship! One caveat for those who might want to try this is it's not well suited to coated paper stocks or very thin books (unless multiple copies are gang-stacked). The cording of the back is especially good for oversize or heavy volumes; for most others, I'm with Fred -- find another way to reduce the flexing angle along the glued pages and retain good openability. Simplest is probably to use two or even three layers of backlining materials. The first can be a stretchy (across the spine) non-woven material applied immediately after fanning and before a brief weighting on the table. Then mull/muslin as usual, and if necessary a last layer of muslin or even buckram, tailored to fit the spine only. Even bulky reference tomes can be reliably treated this way. P.S. Your advanced "dry-fingertip" technique during casing in deserves a slow motion close-up segment of its own -- brilliant!
Thanks for your thoughtful insights. I'm using the sunken cords less and less. I explain to clients the weakness of this binding (Lumbeck) and that at some point it will fail - hopefully last maybe 10 years with good use. But then it can be rebound with no detriment to the text. Whereas everything I could do to make it last longer than that 10 years - sunken cords, overcasting - will probably require the edge of the text to be trimmed when it needs rebinding. To me the text has priority. Bookbinding is about understand the compromises and making choices based on the priorities. All the best, Darryn
Now I have learned something I've always wanted to be able to do since I became fascinated with books:) Thank you for making such a wonderful and easy to understand video!
Once again THANK YOU for a brilliant video. The clear and precise descriptions. The mind set that different book binders have different tools and/or traditions. The love for sources and the craft. THANK YOU!. This one helps me in a project of rebinding the textbooks I use as a teacher. So after Christmas I will have the best looking science and technology books in all school. Keep up the good work you are a beacon to a lot of us out there. /B
Great amount of effort and great video sir. This is by far the best book-binding video I've seen on TH-cam. Definitely going with this method for loose leaf binding. Thanks a lot sir. God Bless you!
All your videos are so well done. Very informative and easy to understand. I've never done any bookbinding, but have developed an interest over the last couple of years. I want to bind one small book at least once even though I don't have any tools besides a bone folder. My mother gave it to me because she thought it was for origami! Lol! A blessing in disguise. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Ah perfect, this is the exact book design i have been looking for. I have a lot of very worn rpg books i want to do this too as in most cases the cover is missing anyways.
I really enjoy your videos and watched almost all of them today. I am a Manga Collector and prefer to only collect Hardcovers. Sadly not every Series i like has a Hardcover version so i wanted to create some myself and your Videos did really inspired me and motivated me to try it. Thanks for sharing your techniques much appreciated.
I always, as a crafter, prefer sewn bindings like the coptic, longstitch (with link), saddle stitch, etc since I know it will last generations and like to show the binding off. But, I understand that perfect has its place and time.
If you have a pile of single sheets sewing isn't an option, except the numerous variations of overcasting. Maybe there is a place for overcasting, but I would prefer to rebind a Lumbecked book more often than damage the edges of the pages. Of course the coptic/link stitch and long stitch also have weaknesses, and this is why they were superseded by supported sewing. I'm not a fan of the use of the description "saddle stitch" as used on the internet. I believe in the trade saddle stitch was reserved for stab binding through the side of paper - as would be used to bind single sheets - and what is usually demonstrated on the internet (or close to it) has been called pamphlet sewing, where pamphlets are usually single section - well pamphlets. But like all things there is/was variation and inconsistency in usage of terminology. All the best, DAS
If, when you paste up the folio to stick to the back boards (starting ≈ 28:20) ,you use _two_sheets of magazine-scrap-pastey-paper, pull the upper paste-dirty one out (as at 28:45) but leave the clean lower one in place. Then, when you lower the board down, gently slide out the clean scrap paper at the same time. This should ensure the corners of the pasted paper do not curl under as at 28:45, and you perhaps don’t need to bend the board quite so much. Love the vids & have learned a lot. Many thanks. Stay safe & keep getting in a bind.
The real solution is to slow down a bit and let the moisture equalise in the paper, called letting the paper "relax", and then the curl goes away. But I'm always in a rush:) Ta, Darryn
@DAS Bookbinding. Thank you for your videos on the craft of hand bookbinding. You may already know this. The fan - binding method you used was named after it's inventor Herr Lumbeck. Apparently Lumbeck was a Socialist and had the idea of a low cost binding system without the expensive sewing process. So he initiated books for all people at economic prices. (Just like Herr Diesel and his engine, the Brehmer brothers of Leipzig and their wire stitching machine - another low cost binding system which avoided sewing, and possibly many more). There was also a partially mechanised fan - binding developed by the Ehlermann machinery company in Germany. Ehlermann also built some of the earliest commercial perfect binding lines. Unfortunately in the late 1930's Hitler"s Third Reich collected/stole many patents and copyrights throughout Germany, and Ehlermann were victims. After WW2 the Ehlermann family had to fight the authorities to get their patents returned.One story I heard was that Ehlermann had to buy back what was rightfully theirs. Unfortunately Ehlermann are no longer around but I think the Wohlenberg company bought up the rights to their original designs and concepts for perfect binding machines. Back in the last century (maybe 1973?) I was fortunate enough to have a 1 hour bookbinding theory lesson with 'the' Mr. Arthur Johnson. Mr. Johnson stepped in to cover for our usual print finishing course lecturer who did not get to the college due to transport strikes. What an enlightening experience being taught by Mr. Johnson. Plus he also showed us some of his own personal finished bookbinding projects which were just stunning. Thank you again for inviting us into your world of bookbinding. Stay safe and well.
Thanks. I did not know of Lumbeck's socialist leanings. I knew his son continued in developing adhesives. That's nice to know. What a treat to have had Arthur Johnson as a teacher, even if it was just once! All the best, Darryn
Thank you. It looks beautiful - I want to visit! I used the wonderful prints as an example of something that could be put inside a portfolio in today's video. Yours, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding I am a little bit stuck on attaching the covers to my book and hope you may be able to point me in the right direction. The issue is that the covers for my book will be printed separately. In other words I do not have the capability to print both covers on the one piece of paper as I would need an A3 printer. I can attache the covers to the book but I need advice on how to treat the spine and corners. Do you have a video for this situation or could you please provide advice. Best wishes. Terry Wilson
Loved this video! I have a perfect-bound cookbook that's falling apart that I think this would be perfect to repair it with. Question - in another video of someone doing double fan binding, they reinforced the spine with a strip of muslin/thin cloth, instead of cutting in twines like you did (after gluing both the fans, they glued the spine while it was straight and then applied the cloth along the spine). It allowed the text block to open perfectly flat, which in your video you said you didn't like because it meant the spine was more likely to crack. With a cloth instead of those cut-in twines, do you think the spine would be more likely to hold up over time while still laying flat? I only ask because I think it would be nice to have a cookbook which lays completely flat, but it does get a LOT of use (which is why the original perfect binding cracked, lol), and I wouldn't want to have to repair it yet again in another couple years.
It's a more complex questions than maybe it sounds. The idea of the double-fan method is to put a small amount of adhesive on the face of the page so there is larger attachment area making it a stronger attachment. If you think about 2 pages joined in this method they are now restricted in how much they can open. They can only open really wide without the paper flexing if the adhesive doesn't extend onto the face of the page. In which case the page is only being held in to the book be the very thin strip of adhesive along the very edge, which is connected to the cloth in your example. The page is much more likely to fall out, and thus why the double-fan (or Lumbeck) method was invented. Everything in bookbinding is a compromise. Now where more so than binding single sheets. Hope this helps. DAS
Usually, If you don't have a A3 printer, you can only print in A4 size. Then this is a how to make a long last book binding. For school text book from PDF to hardcopy.
This couldnt have been better timed for me- I need to rebind a poorly-perfect-bound RPG rulebook for a game next friday and have been pondering how to attack it. I think I'll just guillotine the spine off though, its visibly very rough.
@@DASBookbinding Credit where credit is due. It was easier than I expected. I got as far as completing the textblock a couple of weeks after you first posted your tutorial, then put it on the backburner for a while because I was intimidated by making the spring. When I actually plucked up the courage to try it worked out fine on the first attempt. It's not quite as snappy as some I've seen, but I think a lot of that is to do with it only being 200 pages (c.20mm thick textblock)- I just couldnt put enough of a radius into the spine, and there ended up being quite a gap between the spring and the textblock.
What would you say should be the ideal number of pages for a bind like this? What would you consider the maximum page count? Say standard 70-80 gsm printer paper.
Good question. Instead of pages let's talk sheets of paper. A sheet has 2 sides, each of which can be a page and thus could be confusing. I think once you go past half a ream - about 250 sheets - the text has significant weight to it and the width provides leverage. So opening in the middle there is a lot of force that can crack the spine. I think if possible stay below 250 sheets. But I have gone larger but I add a thicker stiffer lining to the spine (0.3 manila card) to reduce the amount the book throws up reducing the chance the spine will crack. The leaves then have to drape more for reading, but a longer living book hopefully. Good luck! DAS
It just a decorative machine made headband, like these from Hewits www.hewitonline.com/category_s/80.htm You can make your own with some striped cotton folded over a piece of cords about 1mm thick. I keep scraps of nice decorative paper to make headbands too.
I nearly purchased that book, Darryn. 00:54 What put me off, was the review stating a lot of the book was : "definitely an essential reference source for all the professionals who are in charge of making decisions related to book production" - Amazon Product Description Which isn't what I was looking for. The other thing, that garish red coloring throughout the volume is visually offensive. "Perfect Binding" not when it is badly made using cheap, nasty paper, a cheap nasty cover and it's poorly bound. Yes, it is, isn't it, Hodder & Staunton .... 02:19 Here's Darryn, testing out the theory of Fahrenheit 451. 😆 03:04 I have seen double fanning done on Macrina's channel. I don't think I can do this technique on that cheap paperback, the pages just aren't good enough quality paper. However I want to do a better job than the publisher.
It is a very specialist book. I might look at it once every 6 months to try and work out how some modern book was made. When I was younger I loved the movie F. 451. I could just listen to it because of the music by Bernard Herrmann! Good luck! DAS
This was incredibly helpful. Thank you for giving me the tools to publish books! I used some generic PVA but it was too think. Then watered down to a 1:1 but it was too thin and bled through the fibers. Any glue recommendations? Can't wait to make another.
If you're in the US I recommend Jade 403 www.talasonline.com/Jade-403 In the UK M289 www.hewitonline.com/PVA_Adhesive_M289_p/ad-011.htm Don't thin until you've been using for awhile and gets noticeably thicker than what it came like. Good luck! DAS
I want to print a cover/spine/back to make a paperback book. Are the steps similar to the ones after 28:09? Thank you, and amazing channel, I'm learning a lot.
I'm sorry, I don;t think I understand the question. You want to print the cover material and a make a soft cover book? Regards printing the cover material, yes you can print on the material and apply it just like I have in this video. I have printed with an InkJet on book cloth and it looks great but you can use paper too. If you want to make a soft cover book I would suggest another method, the stiffened paper binding but with a light card or heavy paper instead of the board covers. I hope I have covered what you are after. If not let me know and I'll have another shot. Good luck! DAS th-cam.com/video/PGcG2v4TXw0/w-d-xo.html
Doing a littlebit of fan bindning at home. It gors ok. Your wood contrapsion is awsome. Can you still buy them somewhwre? :) Havemt done any covers yet. Looks more very difficulr in my opinion. But have to try it out soon. Great videos. Just found your channel. Great inspiration videos! =)
The exact one I use in the video was custom made for me. But Schmedt have a nice one www.schmedt.com/double-screw-edge-gilding-press-made-of-waxed-beechwood/60300000.B
Can I tip on a made end paper for decorative purpose? I'm not sure I fully understood all the extra pages and sewing in the made end papers video. I want to bind single sheets of sheet music so this seems like the method.
Ignorance question here. Is there a reason why the glue is put onto the inner page instead of the inside of the outer cover to glue the two together? Amazing video and very calming.
The text is smaller than the cover board. If you glued the inside of the board the glue would extend past the paper. It would be very difficult to mask. Just easier this way. DAS
Goes by many names depending on where you live. I call it scrim. Mull is another common name and in the US it is usually called super. www.talasonline.com/Super-Mull-Crash-Tarlatan www.hewitonline.com/Mull_Best_Quality_p/cl-210-000.htm All the best, DAS
Do you mean in the double fan video? No leather in this video. But yes you always put paste on the leather. The leather will absorb a lot of paste. I have started also putting paste on the board, as per the full leather covering video. If you mean book cloth, then this is less important. I usually try and put the adhesive on the cloth so I can work it into the grain of the cloth. But for convenience I often glue out the boards too. All the best, DAS
It's a finishing press. Depends where you are. In the EU I'd recommend Schmedt. In North America I think Talas sells a finishing press. Mine was made by Frank Wiesner (Wiesner woodcraft).
Mine is made by the master craftsman Frank Wiesner. I'm not sure they are available in the US any more. Schmedt have a similar press. Even thought it is a German company, even with shipping it would be cheaper than a Wiesner press, without shipping. schmedt.com/double-screw-edge-gilding-press-made-of-wood/6032-035 Don't be put off by the description of edge gilding press. This press can be used for so many things - it is like an extra hand.
My man just casually ripped a book apart. Then I remembered this is a bookbinding channel so I chilled.
At that point I had to turn away!
First of all, this is amazing and utterly mesmerizing, but also the pspspsps sounds of the glue being applied at super-speeds during the Bradel binding part are killing me. I love it.
Brother, you are doing a great service for/to us your viewers; and likewise for those not yet born. You are preserving our fathers’ and grandfathers’ skills in trades which might very well become otherwise lost to time perhaps forever. Keep up your excellent work!
As I am taking my notes on an e-ink tablet, while watching this on a 4k oled display, I must applaud. In no time at all I will undoubtedly drop and break this tablet and upgrade to the next display. However the books that I bind and keep proudly displayed will remain, they may even outlast me if I have been raising my kids right. I see paper wasted all the time, and treated as disposable within an hour of printing at work, so i try to put that information out digitally when I can. But certain things just feel right in a book. I know nobody else has a library like mine. Much respect and cheers for doing what you do.
Thanks for this tutorial! I've always wanted to get into book binding so this was a great intro, did my first practice run today using just paper and cardboard, wood glue, and an x-acto knife and some wood planks and clamps, but fairly happy with the results from following this, thank you for the chance to learn.
Thank you for this..I've wanted to put my D&D sheets together. My dm makes maps and little letters and stuff and I wanted to print and bind them. Your videos are awesome, easy to follow and understand :)
Now I want to make a book of all my old character sheets and campaign memorabilia.
I am going to rebind some old books that have broken spines and destroyed covers for use in my games since the interiors are fine! As A DM, I am thinking of putting my homebrew world into a book form someday too! There's so much potential....like gamers have so much free time!
Thank you as I have been taking certified bookbinding courses and I had yet to see how to deal with the simple text block that a printer hands me. I am so grateful for your shared knowledge.
Love to watch craftspeople at their work.
Probably won't be doing any of these, but satisfying to watch.
Thanks so much for this! Double fan was just what I needed to repair a previously spiral bound cook book.
You know... I've already told you this in other ways, but your channel is my go to by default. Here I get all the answers and even extra tips from a professional approach. But it's not only the technical aspect, it is the peculiar and delightful atmosphere of being in medieval times; this is alchemical-bookbinding, and all this music is awesome; lute or classical guitar is also one of my favorite choice to make books because it puts you in that atmosphere (although I'm not sure if classical guitar reaches the middle age, but you get my point). Thank you for all these experiences and teachings Maestre, I mean it. Cheerio!
Thanks! I'm glad the videos are so useful to you.
Thanks to this channel I started to bind my books, I finally got the idea on how to do it. Please keep on good work. These are the best tutorials on bookbinding ever.
I don't know why, but I love the fast-forward-moments and the sounds too!😄
And the sound of the glue brush lol
I went back to this video as I have seven fifty-ninety. page machinist book of old to repair and rebind. The refresher was quite informative Thank you for your effort..
WOW, I was searching for this for years. So there is actually a way to bind it this way. Thanks a lot.
Used this for my second book, a copy of "Conservation Book Repair, a Training Manual" by Artemis BonaDona. I just printed out the PDF double-sided on a standard laser printer, did the double-fan binding, trimmed it, and then made a square back bradel case following your other video on that topic. I was a little too aggressive when trimming; some of the illustrations are quite far up against the right margin, and I wound up trimming about 1mm off of them. Whoops. But it's still entirely usable.
The binding came out well, I think. It seems strong.
Casing in proved more difficult with a larger text block, and it came out slightly crooked. The pastedowns were fine at the head, but almost flush with the foredge of the case at the tail side. I wish I had used paste instead of mix for casing in, it might have afforded me enough working time to fix that. Oh, well. It opens and closes fine, and it lays flat. So I can't complain too much. In the event that it breaks down after a couple years' use, I'll just bind up another copy. Hopefully a better one.
I took it to my workplace -- a library -- and we're adding it to the catalog. It's scheduled to live in our conservation room. Our current book repair person had no previous experience, and has been learning on the job almost exclusively based on notes from her predecessor in between assorted other tasks. I am hopeful this will help her dive a little deeper into that aspect of her job.
Really nice to see. Everyone has individual approaches or habits, and it's very helpful to see your approach, and your thinking. Thanks so much!
I've been watching your book binding videos after stumbling upon them about a week ago. They're great, and I love the way you concentrate on the technique and don't try to dazzle with fancy effects and editing. And it's always a joy to see somebody using a tool made in my home city (I'll be getting myself a Flinn Garlick tenon saw when I can next travel back to the UK).
I love that saw. I believe the same saw is sold under a few different names. Now you have me curious and I'm going to look for photos of the factory the internet. Ciao, DAS
Excellent. That method of applying the glue is ingenious. It is tips like that make your videos so watchable .
Your voice over at the end surprised me as I had turned up the volume and was enjoying listening to the Goldbergs on the headphones!
Thanks John. I recommend grabbing Jon's recording of the Goldberg variations. They've attracted another spurious copyright violation notice. Since TH-cam doesn't seem inclined to protect small creators, I'm going to be limited in what I can use in the future.
Thank you very much as well, it is a pleasure watching a master
I wanted to make a photo book for a wedding but couldn’t find book binding technique for single sheets. Then i found your channel! You showed me the way!! Thank you so much ❤. I really appreciate the step by step tutorial and explanations❤
Wow, such perfection. Love what you are teaching here and the music is lovely.
Darryn !! You are a joy to watch in your work. I have several Indian bound books that are now out of print in this manner. Thank you for all you do for us here on youtube.
Thank you so much. My sister has spent 30 years researching familly history and best part of a year typing it up. I said I would bind it for her, expecting A4 Portrait! I have an A3 printer but need A2 printer to do a stitched A4 landscape print. Help! And now you have completely solved my problems. And you thank me for watching it! I do hope you really know how much help and shear joy you give to so many people.
Oh and the humble way that you take every opportunity to give credit to the people that developed the techniques. You are an inspirationsl human being. And on top of that playing Papa Bach's music. Life is such joy today!
It would still be good to find an office works type printer to print it on A2 and have them trim it. It sounds like it deserves a sewn binding. Not trying to make life hard for you. Just saying:)
Just wanted to say THANK YOU so much for your content! I started binding my comic books together into volumes and this has been so much help! I'm just getting started in this hobby and your videos are going to be my go-to as I progress!
Your video was a joy to watch! I am very new to bookbinding and enjoy watching seasoned book binders as yourself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
This is exactly what I need to repair some very expensive, perfect bound, college textbooks. Thank you!
Very nicely done -- it's always a pleasure to see good craftsmanship! One caveat for those who might want to try this is it's not well suited to coated paper stocks or very thin books (unless multiple copies are gang-stacked). The cording of the back is especially good for oversize or heavy volumes; for most others, I'm with Fred -- find another way to reduce the flexing angle along the glued pages and retain good openability. Simplest is probably to use two or even three layers of backlining materials. The first can be a stretchy (across the spine) non-woven material applied immediately after fanning and before a brief weighting on the table. Then mull/muslin as usual, and if necessary a last layer of muslin or even buckram, tailored to fit the spine only. Even bulky reference tomes can be reliably treated this way.
P.S. Your advanced "dry-fingertip" technique during casing in deserves a slow motion close-up segment of its own -- brilliant!
Thanks for your thoughtful insights. I'm using the sunken cords less and less. I explain to clients the weakness of this binding (Lumbeck) and that at some point it will fail - hopefully last maybe 10 years with good use. But then it can be rebound with no detriment to the text. Whereas everything I could do to make it last longer than that 10 years - sunken cords, overcasting - will probably require the edge of the text to be trimmed when it needs rebinding. To me the text has priority. Bookbinding is about understand the compromises and making choices based on the priorities. All the best, Darryn
Now I have learned something I've always wanted to be able to do since I became fascinated with books:) Thank you for making such a wonderful and easy to understand video!
Fantastic.
I was mesmerized.
Thank you.
Best day now.
Fascinating. Never thought to cord the block too.
Pasting at that speed sounds like a cat purring!
Thanks for a good tutorial. I now feel much more confident to give Lumbecking a shot Keith Tasmania
Good luck Keith! DAS
Once again THANK YOU for a brilliant video.
The clear and precise descriptions. The mind set that different book binders have different tools and/or traditions. The love for sources and the craft. THANK YOU!.
This one helps me in a project of rebinding the textbooks I use as a teacher. So after Christmas I will have the best looking science and technology books in all school.
Keep up the good work you are a beacon to a lot of us out there.
/B
Your videos are always full of tips and new techniques, thank you for helping the new bookbinders out there!
You are very welcome! DAS
Beautiful work. Thank you so much for teaching us.
Great amount of effort and great video sir. This is by far the best book-binding video I've seen on TH-cam. Definitely going with this method for loose leaf binding. Thanks a lot sir. God Bless you!
YES! I was *so* hoping you'd have a video on this!!!!!!
All your videos are so well done. Very informative and easy to understand. I've never done any bookbinding, but have developed an interest over the last couple of years. I want to bind one small book at least once even though I don't have any tools besides a bone folder. My mother gave it to me because she thought it was for origami! Lol! A blessing in disguise. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
If you're going to do just one book, I recommend the sewn-board binding. Good luck! DAS
Thank you for this video. : ) I have to re-watch it to grasp the contents of the first section, but may thanks.
Thanks for recommending the OLFA knives - I love mine, it cuts like a razor.
Please consider doing a video of books you’d recommend on bookbinding techniques and its history.
Ah perfect, this is the exact book design i have been looking for. I have a lot of very worn rpg books i want to do this too as in most cases the cover is missing anyways.
I really enjoy your videos and watched almost all of them today. I am a Manga Collector and prefer to only collect Hardcovers. Sadly not every Series i like has a Hardcover version so i wanted to create some myself and your Videos did really inspired me and motivated me to try it. Thanks for sharing your techniques much appreciated.
I have decided to have a go at this. And have a text block drying.
Good luck! DAS
I always, as a crafter, prefer sewn bindings like the coptic, longstitch (with link), saddle stitch, etc since I know it will last generations and like to show the binding off. But, I understand that perfect has its place and time.
If you have a pile of single sheets sewing isn't an option, except the numerous variations of overcasting. Maybe there is a place for overcasting, but I would prefer to rebind a Lumbecked book more often than damage the edges of the pages. Of course the coptic/link stitch and long stitch also have weaknesses, and this is why they were superseded by supported sewing. I'm not a fan of the use of the description "saddle stitch" as used on the internet. I believe in the trade saddle stitch was reserved for stab binding through the side of paper - as would be used to bind single sheets - and what is usually demonstrated on the internet (or close to it) has been called pamphlet sewing, where pamphlets are usually single section - well pamphlets. But like all things there is/was variation and inconsistency in usage of terminology. All the best, DAS
I'm completely unsurprised that you chose a Bach piece for the interlude. :) Thanks for this demonstration.
thank you for making these videos i've learned a lot from watching your processes! i'm excited that i found your channel
Awesome. Thanks so much for explaining things and demonstrating it so well. Much appreciated
Thanks for great tutorial :) Great skills you have in your hands. Keep going.
If, when you paste up the folio to stick to the back boards (starting ≈ 28:20) ,you use _two_sheets of magazine-scrap-pastey-paper, pull the upper paste-dirty one out (as at 28:45) but leave the clean lower one in place. Then, when you lower the board down, gently slide out the clean scrap paper at the same time. This should ensure the corners of the pasted paper do not curl under as at 28:45, and you perhaps don’t need to bend the board quite so much.
Love the vids & have learned a lot. Many thanks. Stay safe & keep getting in a bind.
The real solution is to slow down a bit and let the moisture equalise in the paper, called letting the paper "relax", and then the curl goes away. But I'm always in a rush:) Ta, Darryn
That was fantastic. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
@DAS Bookbinding. Thank you for your videos on the craft of hand bookbinding. You may already know this. The fan - binding method you used was named after it's inventor Herr Lumbeck. Apparently Lumbeck was a Socialist and had the idea of a low cost binding system without the expensive sewing process. So he initiated books for all people at economic prices. (Just like Herr Diesel and his engine, the Brehmer brothers of Leipzig and their wire stitching machine - another low cost binding system which avoided sewing, and possibly many more). There was also a partially mechanised fan - binding developed by the Ehlermann machinery company in Germany. Ehlermann also built some of the earliest commercial perfect binding lines. Unfortunately in the late 1930's Hitler"s Third Reich collected/stole many patents and copyrights throughout Germany, and Ehlermann were victims. After WW2 the Ehlermann family had to fight the authorities to get their patents returned.One story I heard was that Ehlermann had to buy back what was rightfully theirs. Unfortunately Ehlermann are no longer around but I think the Wohlenberg company bought up the rights to their original designs and concepts for perfect binding machines.
Back in the last century (maybe 1973?) I was fortunate enough to have a 1 hour bookbinding theory lesson with 'the' Mr. Arthur Johnson. Mr. Johnson stepped in to cover for our usual print finishing course lecturer who did not get to the college due to transport strikes. What an enlightening experience being taught by Mr. Johnson. Plus he also showed us some of his own personal finished bookbinding projects which were just stunning. Thank you again for inviting us into your world of bookbinding. Stay safe and well.
Thanks. I did not know of Lumbeck's socialist leanings. I knew his son continued in developing adhesives. That's nice to know. What a treat to have had Arthur Johnson as a teacher, even if it was just once! All the best, Darryn
Thank you for a very instructive video!
I did watch it, cheerio to you too 😁
Excellent as always.
Brilliant, just what I was looking for. Many thanks.
I find your video mesmerizing! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and artistry!
Thank you, your easy to follow
Thank you. Happy New Year.From GREECE ! ! !
Happy New Year from Australia!!!
Please tell me your address, i want to send a gift.@@DASBookbinding
You really don't have to! But it is such a nice gesture I couldn't say no!
He's impressed me, never what you know, in detail. It's very polite that you share your knowledge. This is culture!!!@@DASBookbinding
Thank you. It looks beautiful - I want to visit! I used the wonderful prints as an example of something that could be put inside a portfolio in today's video. Yours, Darryn
Great video. Just how I learned how to do it.
Lovely video very informative thank you
Wonderful. Thank you so much.
Wonderful, gr8 work. Appreciate.
This is an excellent easy to understand video. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! DAS
@@DASBookbinding I am a little bit stuck on attaching the covers to my book and hope you may be able to point me in the right direction.
The issue is that the covers for my book will be printed separately. In other words I do not have the capability to print both covers on the one piece of paper as I would need an A3 printer. I can attache the covers to the book but I need advice on how to treat the spine and corners. Do you have a video for this situation or could you please provide advice. Best wishes. Terry Wilson
You an are artist brother
Thanks soo much for you timd and effort
Bravo! love it. Just what I needed.
Perfect! DAS
Mesmerising!
Excellent.
Excellent
Loved this video! I have a perfect-bound cookbook that's falling apart that I think this would be perfect to repair it with. Question - in another video of someone doing double fan binding, they reinforced the spine with a strip of muslin/thin cloth, instead of cutting in twines like you did (after gluing both the fans, they glued the spine while it was straight and then applied the cloth along the spine). It allowed the text block to open perfectly flat, which in your video you said you didn't like because it meant the spine was more likely to crack. With a cloth instead of those cut-in twines, do you think the spine would be more likely to hold up over time while still laying flat? I only ask because I think it would be nice to have a cookbook which lays completely flat, but it does get a LOT of use (which is why the original perfect binding cracked, lol), and I wouldn't want to have to repair it yet again in another couple years.
It's a more complex questions than maybe it sounds. The idea of the double-fan method is to put a small amount of adhesive on the face of the page so there is larger attachment area making it a stronger attachment. If you think about 2 pages joined in this method they are now restricted in how much they can open. They can only open really wide without the paper flexing if the adhesive doesn't extend onto the face of the page. In which case the page is only being held in to the book be the very thin strip of adhesive along the very edge, which is connected to the cloth in your example. The page is much more likely to fall out, and thus why the double-fan (or Lumbeck) method was invented. Everything in bookbinding is a compromise. Now where more so than binding single sheets. Hope this helps. DAS
I watching in turkey so good tecnic thank you
Sou do Brasil e isso me ajudou muito o pois estou começando na encadernação. Obrigada pelas informações e detalhes preciosos
Usually, If you don't have a A3 printer, you can only print in A4 size. Then this is a how to make a long last book binding. For school text book from PDF to hardcopy.
excelente, saludos desde Mexico
This couldnt have been better timed for me- I need to rebind a poorly-perfect-bound RPG rulebook for a game next friday and have been pondering how to attack it. I think I'll just guillotine the spine off though, its visibly very rough.
Yes, cutting off the spine is the easiest, fastest and often the only viable solution.
@@DASBookbinding Btw I did eventually make a springback using your tutorial, I've just posted pictures in I Am A Bookbinder on Facebook.
That is amazing!! That is a fantastic job. Seeing work like this makes the time spent on these videos worthwhile!! And thanks for the mention!
@@DASBookbinding Credit where credit is due. It was easier than I expected. I got as far as completing the textblock a couple of weeks after you first posted your tutorial, then put it on the backburner for a while because I was intimidated by making the spring. When I actually plucked up the courage to try it worked out fine on the first attempt. It's not quite as snappy as some I've seen, but I think a lot of that is to do with it only being 200 pages (c.20mm thick textblock)- I just couldnt put enough of a radius into the spine, and there ended up being quite a gap between the spring and the textblock.
Have you ever been able to make the spine more round using this or a similar technique?
What would you say should be the ideal number of pages for a bind like this? What would you consider the maximum page count? Say standard 70-80 gsm printer paper.
Good question. Instead of pages let's talk sheets of paper. A sheet has 2 sides, each of which can be a page and thus could be confusing. I think once you go past half a ream - about 250 sheets - the text has significant weight to it and the width provides leverage. So opening in the middle there is a lot of force that can crack the spine. I think if possible stay below 250 sheets. But I have gone larger but I add a thicker stiffer lining to the spine (0.3 manila card) to reduce the amount the book throws up reducing the chance the spine will crack. The leaves then have to drape more for reading, but a longer living book hopefully. Good luck! DAS
Thank you for the video! One question, though: what did you put on the end of the book spine at 20 minutes in the video, the two tiny pieces?
It just a decorative machine made headband, like these from Hewits
www.hewitonline.com/category_s/80.htm
You can make your own with some striped cotton folded over a piece of cords about 1mm thick. I keep scraps of nice decorative paper to make headbands too.
I nearly purchased that book, Darryn. 00:54 What put me off, was the review stating a lot of the book was :
"definitely an essential reference source for all the professionals who are in charge of making decisions related to book production" - Amazon Product Description
Which isn't what I was looking for. The other thing, that garish red coloring throughout the volume is visually offensive.
"Perfect Binding" not when it is badly made using cheap, nasty paper, a cheap nasty cover and it's poorly bound. Yes, it is, isn't it, Hodder & Staunton .... 02:19
Here's Darryn, testing out the theory of Fahrenheit 451. 😆 03:04
I have seen double fanning done on Macrina's channel. I don't think I can do this technique on that cheap paperback, the pages just aren't good enough quality paper. However I want to do a better job than the publisher.
It is a very specialist book. I might look at it once every 6 months to try and work out how some modern book was made.
When I was younger I loved the movie F. 451. I could just listen to it because of the music by Bernard Herrmann!
Good luck!
DAS
This was incredibly helpful. Thank you for giving me the tools to publish books! I used some generic PVA but it was too think. Then watered down to a 1:1 but it was too thin and bled through the fibers. Any glue recommendations? Can't wait to make another.
If you're in the US I recommend Jade 403
www.talasonline.com/Jade-403
In the UK M289
www.hewitonline.com/PVA_Adhesive_M289_p/ad-011.htm
Don't thin until you've been using for awhile and gets noticeably thicker than what it came like.
Good luck! DAS
I use Lineco glue for book binding. It is very good.
Sir what is the covering material you used.. where we get this kind of covering material
Weirdly I cannot find that reference book for sale; but somehow can still find ones from 97. and 2010. Weird day.
Can you add MC to your PVA, to extend the drying time? Or does that cause other problems? Or do you, and I just missed it? 😊
Yes, that is fine and common to do. I talk about this in the video on mixing up MC. All the best, DAS
I want to print a cover/spine/back to make a paperback book. Are the steps similar to the ones after 28:09?
Thank you, and amazing channel, I'm learning a lot.
I'm sorry, I don;t think I understand the question. You want to print the cover material and a make a soft cover book? Regards printing the cover material, yes you can print on the material and apply it just like I have in this video. I have printed with an InkJet on book cloth and it looks great but you can use paper too. If you want to make a soft cover book I would suggest another method, the stiffened paper binding but with a light card or heavy paper instead of the board covers. I hope I have covered what you are after. If not let me know and I'll have another shot. Good luck! DAS th-cam.com/video/PGcG2v4TXw0/w-d-xo.html
@@DASBookbinding Yes, that's exactly what I was asking, thank you very much for the reply!
Subscribed, thumb up
Great video demonstration. Why need cords between spaces on the spine? What is the purpose? Thank you,
The cut in cords can make the binding stronger. But it can also stop it opening as flat.
Would you please do a video on wooden book covers.
Doing a littlebit of fan bindning at home. It gors ok. Your wood contrapsion is awsome. Can you still buy them somewhwre? :)
Havemt done any covers yet. Looks more very difficulr in my opinion. But have to try it out soon.
Great videos. Just found your channel. Great inspiration videos! =)
Sorry for my spelling =)
The exact one I use in the video was custom made for me. But Schmedt have a nice one
www.schmedt.com/double-screw-edge-gilding-press-made-of-waxed-beechwood/60300000.B
Hello. Im a fan from the 🇵🇭. May I know where to buy that wooden binding rig?
Thank you very much , will the technique work for around 300pages or bigger volume , please do a video on how to handle a big volume without sewing
300 pages isn't too thick. Maybe saw in the cords to stop the spine drinking too much. The process is exactly the same. Good luck! DAS
Can I tip on a made end paper for decorative purpose? I'm not sure I fully understood all the extra pages and sewing in the made end papers video. I want to bind single sheets of sheet music so this seems like the method.
Yes, you could tip on made endpapers in this situation. DAS
Great video, what is the name of the red book cloth you used
Arbelave buckram
Ignorance question here. Is there a reason why the glue is put onto the inner page instead of the inside of the outer cover to glue the two together? Amazing video and very calming.
The text is smaller than the cover board. If you glued the inside of the board the glue would extend past the paper. It would be very difficult to mask. Just easier this way. DAS
Hi if may I ask , I'm a newbie What did you use in making a case? That dark red paper? Or something?
fab stuff, great vid ;)just wanting tho know what the fabric you are using @ 20.30 secs? think its linen/ where can I buy, thanks so much
Goes by many names depending on where you live. I call it scrim. Mull is another common name and in the US it is usually called super.
www.talasonline.com/Super-Mull-Crash-Tarlatan
www.hewitonline.com/Mull_Best_Quality_p/cl-210-000.htm
All the best, DAS
Good video. Looked like your natural speed though. ;+)
I actually had to slow it down so you could see what I'm doing:) DAS
How did you do the titles on the spine and front cover? Are they just stickers you printed out? Is there a certain type that weathers well?
Just a nice paper. I generally use Mohawk superfine 80lb text weight and glue on with PVA.
Thank you for the video, I learned many things. Is there a reason to apply the paste on the leather instead of applying it on the boards?
Do you mean in the double fan video? No leather in this video. But yes you always put paste on the leather. The leather will absorb a lot of paste. I have started also putting paste on the board, as per the full leather covering video. If you mean book cloth, then this is less important. I usually try and put the adhesive on the cloth so I can work it into the grain of the cloth. But for convenience I often glue out the boards too. All the best, DAS
Would using mix for the fanning reduce the strength?
Yes. You really want the full benefits of PVA for Lumbecking.
What is the name of the press that you use in "preparing the text"? How can i find it to buy it?
It's a finishing press. Depends where you are. In the EU I'd recommend Schmedt. In North America I think Talas sells a finishing press. Mine was made by Frank Wiesner (Wiesner woodcraft).
Can I ask what kind of of wooden clamp that is and where I could buy one? I’m in the USA. Thanks
Mine is made by the master craftsman Frank Wiesner. I'm not sure they are available in the US any more. Schmedt have a similar press. Even thought it is a German company, even with shipping it would be cheaper than a Wiesner press, without shipping.
schmedt.com/double-screw-edge-gilding-press-made-of-wood/6032-035
Don't be put off by the description of edge gilding press. This press can be used for so many things - it is like an extra hand.
Would this method work in landscape format and sheets of 5.5”x9.5 or 10”?
Yep. DAS