ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2015
- This is a manual lock hub on a 2004 F-550, most are the same for the super duty series, this one covers removing everything down to the center cap in order to free up a damaged mechanism. There was a rock ding on the outer edge that needed to be polished out. Lube everything with a light weight low temperature lube if you run in sub-freezing environments. Parts need to move freely and super sticky grease can stop the whole works. I'm told this hub is made by Warn but I can't verify that yet, its pretty simple in operation and maintenance is very easy. I could not find a reference to this anyplace so decided to dive in and make it happen. Hub works much better now and I didn't break it. I did make a note of the tight spots, polished aluminum areas and worked them down with a stone in the drill press until everything moves with a minimum of effort. The square o-ring oh mine was located with the V facing inward but I changed that to outward, I'd rather have grease sneak out than water sneak in.
Another Video from Josip Marinic showing an auto locker dismantle,
• SuperDuty Auto Hub loc...
Looks like it needs a prod and then re-seal the silver venting strip. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
VERY thorough and well explained unlike MOST You tube vids. Just what the mechanic ordered !
5 yrs old but still a giant help, Thanks much.
This was a very good video but I would like to encourage you to make a small addition. In the video you emphasized that the location had to be between the o and the c to successfully remove the knob. I fought with this for an extended period and then went back and read some of the comments. One individual also had a very difficult time and realized the position needed to be between the c and the k. This was also the case for me. also, I had to use a rubber mallet to get it into that position. Hopefully its not a big deal to add this to your video because I believe your vid is the best one on youtube!
Thanks again for sharing
Certainly can do! There are a couple minor variations it seems, thanks for the feedback!
Cool had milemakers junk went and got thes instead much better thanks for this video
Thank you for this video has been very knowledgeable 👍😁👍
I'm generally very critical. Your video is great and thorough. I find no fault and all is explained very well. Love the tip to boil the seal - never head of that and have had many fail in that way and would love to go back and get them now.
Thank you so much for the video. I followed your instructions and all went well. My husband was very impressed. I was impressed of the money savings. 💃
Thank you. Am actually doing that job right now. IV looked all over and seen all different styles of hubs but those is the first one I've seen with the hub I actually have
Good luck and have patience!
Thank you so much your video just saved me probably $300 or more the hubs on my truck where locked up and I didn't know anything about fixing them. Great video!!!
Adam Fields would they not turn at all for you? Having that issue
@@fbi6540 You may well have either a ton of corrosion behind the control knob or it may be dented. If its corrosion, soaking in coca cola may work to dissolve some of the corrosion, that or dilute oxscalic acid. Have you tried gently coaxing it with pliers?
holy crap that's a tight fit! I got it off. I see what you mean, that's a tight clearance. I had to use two sets of pliers and a vice to get it out but it worked. thanks I appreciate it.
I had one was tight and the other wasn't, I suspect some tolerance in the plastic and housings.
My f250 hubs need to be serviced. Great tip on shrinking a gasket.
A little service can save a lot of trouble! Get in there and get dirty!
best video out there hands down.. took mine apart on my 03 f250 and it was void of any grease, nothing, look like it did the day it came out of the milling machine. bearing were fine but dry, greased everything up and now hope for the best.
Thanks, corrosion is the biggest issue between the body and selector, Keep them clean and lubed!
Very helpful video. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks brother, you saved me.
Excellent video. Thank you.
I priced these at a local parts store and it was $295.00. Thanks for the info.
I'm not sure if the Dorman parts are made by the same mfg, its not a complicated hub but it can get damaged easily.
Great video, thanks for sharing it! I just took my 2000 f350 manual hubs apart and I need a couple of the v-shaped gaskets that you boiled. I contacted both Ford and Warn and both told me that no replacements parts are available. Someone put a round o-ring in there but that profile doesn't make much of a seal.
I'm going to look into X-Profile Fluoroelastomer O-Rings from Mcmaster Carr, I'd bet those might work dandy
Thanks, I'll check them out.
Just did this on my 2000 f450. I was able to use the equivalent to McMaster PN 9452K154 for the oring between the plastic selector knob and the inside of the hub housing. Definitely a little tighter than factory but with grease on it, it works just fine. Maybe the X profile version of that same oring would make it turn easier? Who knows. Definitely worth it if you're considering junking the hub cause you can't buy that oring from Ford/Warner.
That's great news, good find!
Great video!!
Mister that is sooo helpful.
For something not a lot of other tubers have done or shared. I have another version where mine has the smaller spring closer to the outer part of the hub. And that sits on top of this yellow, plastic (two sided) disk. Not sure if mine is the "upgrade " or just another version. I'll give you some updates once done this week. Peace
does yours have the silver bar across the lock knob, it may be an auto hub.
@@fastst1 I have the silver bar for the auto hub. It's a funny piece. Where your's doesn't have the smaller spring, mine does. I also have two different ones. One from 2003 and one from 2006 (date stamps). At this point, it's now a matter of buying the expensive seal gauge for the knuckle seal and dust cover then buying the seals($$$). OR just buying warn manual hubs.
Do you still have the auto hubs or have you converted (heck you might have sold the truck even ha).
Peace
Cool my friend has two hubs that would NOT unlock when the control was turned. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keith, this can be caused by too much grease on the slider. Pop the hub off, and make sure everything moves when the knob is turned and the center spline goes from free to lock. Hub will only unlock when all the strain is off the driveline, if you're on asphalt or a hard surface you might have to back up a bit to unload the axles.
Thrust washer got on backside of hub assembly with grooves facing outward toward tire,
First off let me say I really liked the information you gave in this video. I found it very helpful and gave me confidence to continue. A few little differences between your hub and mine, I have no "lock or free" writing on the outer face of the hub and inside at the bottom of the hub after the gear, I have a rubber membrane covering the plastic actuator. This is where my problem is. When you engage the hub the plastic gets stuck in the grooves and won't release so my hub stays engaged. I have to somehow get the outer part open to clean inside. I tried backing it off from the lock position slightly like you did but I have no idea where that sweet spot is or how to find it. I found a small rip in the rubber, sprayed some penetrating oil in there, shook it around and a bunch of rust came out. I then poured some motor oil in the rip, sloshed it around some until nothing else came out. It's much easier to turn back and forth but the plastic plate still sticks a bit. My truck is a 2002 F250 Super Duty with manual hubs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a bunch
Ed
Ed, thanks, does your lock hub have a silver/bronze like bar that runs across the middle where mine is black? it almost sounds like it could be an auto hub if there is the rubber membrane in there. On the auto hub, the plastic piece should follow the knob rotation, the auto hubs allow the hub to lock when turning the selector but require the vacuum pulse to disengage.
@@fastst1 Yes it does, a silver porous strip that allows air into the outer chamber. You may very well be right about the auto hub, it would be logical to assume that. I bought this truck in BC a few years back from a trucking outfit. It was the owner's personal plow truck so anything is possible. Since the membrane is compromised already, I'm going to rip it out to see if I can clean and lubricate the outer chamber from the inside. If not then it's going to stay in 4 wheel drive until next summer when I just might splurge and change them out for a new set of Warn hubs. They did disengage before by dialing them back counter clockwise. Occasionally the driver's side would stick, I just tapped it gently and rolled back and forth until it stopped ratcheting. I guess I could always pop the hubs off, reset the actuator by hand and reinstall the hubs in a pinch if I really had to have 2 wheel drive. I think I've gone as far as I can with these. I'd like to thank you again for giving me the confidence to dive into this project. You and TH-cam rock!
@@edgatternig4877 Yes indeed, the hive mind does work, that's an auto locker, there is a link above that someone who did the auto locker produced, hopefully its still active. May be able to find some junkyard used hubs, or warn/dorman aftermarket replacements, they're all pretty good. Hopefully everything works out dandy for you!!
@@fastst1 You are correct sir. For the time being I rigged a wire to the plastic discs and brought it through the center of the hub so that I could pull the discs back that last little bit by hand. It will do until I can afford a new set of Warn manual hubs. Thanks for all you've done, you were a great help ;)
thank you my man.
You're very welcome!
I just need the outside part of the hub pictured at 3:32. My hub snapped and left me with only the white part with 8 holes beneath it. You said it wasn’t a moving part so I don’t think i can get it to work without the black turning knob. The white part is held in so who knows I might be able to make it turn but it’s doubtful. I’ll probably end up biting the bullet and buying a new locking hub since I don’t think they make just the outside without the internals
awesome video thanks man first person that said the complete tear down.I noticed
in the background on that towel that you just did a turbo 2.
Yes indeed, 6.0 vgt, nothing scary in there, a snap to overhaul.
yeah they were pretty easy that's the first time I did one last year to it was a Garret. I can't believe the difference in power... Question. I cannot figure out why my hub is different than all the hubs. its the last part of taking it apart. all video show a cup for the spring and mines flat. not familar with 6.0 vgt
What does your hub fit? It may just be an aftermarket
no I think it's an original it's on a Ford F350 2002 turbo diesel is there anyway I can put up a picture
possibly save to google images and post a link.
Thanks for the video. I just purchase a 05 F250 and with the hub unlocked, I get a rattle over bumps. No rattle when hubs are locked. Any idea what it could be? I'm thinking those needle bearings may be the issue. Is it best (or worthwhile) to replace or rebuild.
I would give the u joint a very close inspection as well as the needle bearings. Most of the hard rattles come from the sway bar end links and you can only diagnose by hitting the sway bar with a soft faced hammer to reproduce.
I couldn’t get my hubs to turn at all. Plus they had holes through the turn dials where you grip and turn them, allowing dirt and water in. Ended up getting the Warn ones. They seem a lot better quality.
Gone Biking the Warn units are likely less expensive than the OEM ones. Folks used to drill holes in the selector knob to be able to grease the hubs, that often led to a grease packed inoperable lock hub. Sounds like either that or years of pliers have taken a toll?
fastst1 I’m thinking years of pliers from the previous owner. After I got the new Warn ones installed and watching a bunch of videos here I discovered the Truck has automatic hubs. I guess the manual hubs are just for backup in case the vacuum system fails, not sure?? I’m a carpenter not a mechanic 😉.
@@adventurekevin9409 Indeed, if you have the dash select switch, but usually folks will tear a hub gasket or have a damaged vacuum line, it seems easier to swap out the hubs and ignore the vacuum shift system, though the troubleshooting is not too difficult. Don't over grease, thin grease or even light oil is dandy depending on how cold it gets. The vacuum shift trucks have 'auto' and 'lock' positions auto may stay locked without the system to disengage it but it'll get you out of a jam.
Great and very clear demo of disassembly and all the parts involved. My question is can you get the interior gasket aftermarket? I know one of mine is broken as the end is sticking out between the engagement knob and the housing. I'm asking about the one you had to boil to shrink back to size... Thanks Robyn
Hey there, if you gather the measurements, mcmaster carr might be able to get either a square or round o-ring
Hi, I'm also in need of a couple of these gaskets. Were you able to find any?
Really trying to find either the seal for the selector knob or the size of an o-ring that works. I just did one with a 1/16 section ring that was quite small and stretched over the knob. I would like to identify the 'best fit' o-ring or acquire the real part (was it a U-cup?) The one I services was totally gone. Also, you can usually just toss swelled-up o-rings and gaskets out in the sun for a few minutes....the volatiles cook off and they shrink right back up.
Derek also noted below, "I was able to use the equivalent to McMaster PN 9452K154 for the oring between the plastic selector knob and the inside of the hub housing. " Mine was what looked to be a square section sealing ring but a round o-ring should work.
Ive always heard in between the C and K !!!, also if any body cleans up the bearing could you see any numbers on the bearing ? Hopefully it is a standard number and can still get one ?
The wheel bearing? Those are very standard parts.
Great video. Pretty sure my excursion has never been in 4 wheel before. Wouldn’t turn at all.
Well, also check for a silver bar versus the black bar on the hub, Excursions were a little higher end and often had the dash switch 4WD option with vacuum operated hubs. Sometimes they get swapped out with manual lockers by folks and mechanics who don't want to troubleshoot the vacuum system parts. An auto hub will have lettering that says auto and lock versus free and lock.
Thanks for the great video, good camera work and good narrative. I have auto locking hubs on a 2003 F250 with the same problem as almost everyone else - the selector won't turn. I suspect the disassemble is the same as the manual hub but can't seem to get the selector past the normal end of it's range to between the "O C" position. Do you know if the auto-locking hub has the same disassemble procedure?
+Stan Talbert
Well, is your hub still sticky even when its removed? I really appreciate the ease of removal and simple sealing versus six or eight stuck allen head screws. I have not yet removed my auto lockers from my other truck as they work well, I do drown them twice a year with light oil and work them 20 times each while doing it. I'd suggest a removal and cleaning first, if its still sticky, likely its corrosion and it will require full dissasembly. Thanks for the comment, let me see if I can pull an auto locker apart.
+fastst1
Sorry to say I haven't been as diligent as you in lubricating the hubs twice a year. Guess I'm paying for it now. When I pull one hub off, after it is supposed to be "FREE" in Auto Mode, it is still locked. I accidentally learned that by lightly tapping on the back of the hub near the manual locking lever it would pop free. I took the gear/actuator assembly out and noticed that the spring (under the rubber boot) wasn't moving freely. After squirting lubricating fluid around the Locking Lever the spring appeared to be less sticky. I'm not sure how the auto hub works but I suspect the vacuum somehow causes the spring under the rubber cap to engage the hub and when the vacuum is removed the spring releases the hub (if it's not stuck). Interested to see if you can get an auto locker apart, I've tried everything to try to get it past the end of it's range on both ends.
DIDO I'm in the middle of a ball joint replacement on my F 250 4 X 4 And I have a drivers side lock out that is stuck solid. Thanks for the great video !
I missed this comment, the hub can be free or locked in 'auto' mode, When its in auto, it needs a vacuum pulse to pull it into the free position and another pulse to pull it back into engagement. Often its the seals around the lock hub or the wheel bearing hub that are defective. Clean and light oil the moving parts. There is another video of dismantling the auto locker.
Its realigning at installation that needs to be shown. Once out, I've had trouble reinstalling hub. Any tricks to it?
I didn't think about that part too much as the alignment notch can be seen and wiggle jiggled into place. A little light lube like super lube on the oring might help.
Hey, great video. this is the only video I've found on youtube that does a complete break down of the locking hub. all the others stop without removing the selector switch. And that's my biggest issue. But I still need help. On my hub the word lock is completely worn off. I've tried moving past the arrow but it won't go. I can sort of still see the arrow. Is there something I'm doing wrong? In your video it looked so easy. It always does in videos lol. Even without the guts in the hub the selector switch is still hard to rotate so I know I need to get that out and clean and lube it. I've looked everywhere on the net for instructions, sadly even the big guru ford-diesel forums don't even say anything except buy new hubs. Why if I can fix the old one for cheap.
Thanxs for the help,
Jamie
Jamie, thanks for the comment, yes, there is a step on the lock knob, its hard to see at around 4:37, once your hub is stripped, put the axle side down on the bench and tap the hub lightly on the bench to get the center plastic as far away from the selector as possible, with the hub in the lock position, try grabbing the selector with pliers and pulling it upwards, there is about .010 inch up/down play in the selector, it may take a little force to get it to skip over that little lip. Indeed I couldn't find any reference to removal of the selector but it was the big problem on mine. My second hub did take a bit of upward pull while moving it around near the lock position before it clicked over. Normally the springs inside will prevent the selector from traveling past lock that's why they need to come out.
Turn it all the way to right , tap it until it turns a tad more , it should be at that spot in between C and K ( REPEAT< IT WILL NOT COME OFF ON MINE BETWEEN O and C, HAS TO BE C and K, i know he said o and c) , then pull with pliers. /// (righty tighty/lock lefty lucy/free.... if cant see free or lock anymore). /// Another tip... put retaining clip/c clip back on before putting engagement gear and plastic w spring back in, and tapping the top back down. the snap ring (over pastic w/ spring) can go on last, I couldnt get it (the c clip / retaining ring) on at end before that.
Just bought a ford 250 6.0 Diesel fx4 4x4 I put it n neutral put my low on signal pops up that’s its on but with way do I turn my hubs to lock them in so I can go off road
Hey there Fino, do you have the auto lock hubs or the manual style hubs? Auto lockers are usually paired with a switch on the dash to select 4x4/low and the manual hubs are on trucks with a floor shift transfer case. Free is counterclockwise and lock is clockwise.
@@fastst1 Good info, all markings are worn off and not legible.
Is there inner rebuild kits for these ? Mine just blew up
Goodness, what blew up? did you fragment the sliding dog clutch or did something strip?
I was curious if you thought these could be retrofitted into an older 80'-96' F-150?
so the 1/2-3/4 ton light duty axles use one hub, 19 spline axle, the Heavy 3/4 and 1 ton share the same hub, 30 spline axle, super duty trucks until 04. The newest hub for yours would be a 97 light duty F250, its a repackaged warn hub same as the mid 80's up.
fastst1 Thanks. Sounds good. I thought it was a long shot. Wish someone made a reliable automatic hub to replace those old unreliable factory ones...
Well, that hub there is a manual but looks almost exactly like the automatic hub. Truth be told, I have one auto and three manual hub trucks. Both types have been great but you gotta lube from the outside a couple times a year and work the dirt and grit out of them. The hubs are subject to dings and corrosion, for those you'll need to completely disassemble, remove the burrs and cruft and put it back together.
rubber o ring tip f him - says to boil in soapy water for 5-10 minutes and o ring will shrink
Since the factory hubs are so weak. Just replace it with a Warn hub. The Warn takes the weight better and so the bearings last longer.
Well, if I recall, the OEM hubs are the warn design anyway. I have factory hubs with a total of 1,500,000 miles on them, combined on 4 trucks. Once you dig into the guts the design could not be more simple. There is absolutely no load carrying capacity of the hub, none besides the weight of the lock hub itself. If the truck is loaded to the max or completely unloaded, the hub should install and remove with minimal drag of grease and the o-rings. If you have weight bearing on the lock hub from the stub shaft, you have a ball joint or axle housing problem you need to fix right away. The hub is just a sliding dog clutch, if its not free to slide, you'll have engage/disengage issues. I do like Warn products for certain, but have never needed their hubs.
I went to use my 4x4 and found that it was not engaging. I put in 4hi and tried to turn the front drive shaft with engine off. Would not turn. Indicating transfer case is ok. I then locked the hubs and put the t case in neutral. One side is not locking and will turn free when locked. What internally on your vid is failing in a no lock situation?
Right around the 2:20 mark it shows the inner sleeve. So the spines on the outside are engaged to the hub, the internal splines are attached to the axle stub shaft. When you move the selector to lock, there is a sliding collar 3:00 that engages that inner sleeve, locking the hub. The knob rotation pushes a spring to let the inner sleeve shift to connect the inner sleeve to the outer hub. When the knob is moved to free, and there is no tension on the drive line, the sliding collar will be pushed away from the inner sleeve, letting it turn freely. There can be several factors that will prevent a hub from locking, heavy grease on the sliding parts, corrosion on the sliding parts and even severly worn ball joints putting tension on the sleeve and binding it up, though this also makes the hub difficult to install/remove. Pull the hub and see if you can get it to lock up while not installed. (inner spline will not turn freely)
I need the seal under the locking dial.
Well, its a square o-ring, I'm not sure if mcmaster carr might be able to get one.
Found this video because my hubs wouldn't unlock regardless of the position of the dial. Opened up and it's slam full of red grease...
Hopefully a good cleaning was all that was needed!
@@fastst1 yep. Works fine now