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So stainless on stainless can sometimes gall for almost no reason at all, locking both items together forever. Brass might gall but it won't ever hurt the stainless. I have been assembling stainless nuts on a stainless bolt by hand and had it lock up completely

@@fastst1 hey man, you rock for sure, intelligent answer, can i ask where you get the brass nuts and what is the inside diameter ?

@@brianblithe2271 McMaster Carr online, 8mm 1.25 for the manifold to block studs and M10 for the manifold to exhaust pipe studs Brass washers underneath as well just for a clean look ;) Today the manifolds are rusty as heck, but the brass nuts are the correct dimension still and look fantastic, no leaks

@@fastst1 Thanks for the reply and info, i truly appreciate it, thanks !!!

The wheel bearing? Those are very standard parts.

I didn't think about that part too much as the alignment notch can be seen and wiggle jiggled into place. A little light lube like super lube on the oring might help.

Oh just a non-formed o-ring nothing special. Measure the thickness and size.

no, who would use a full compression union on a brake line, that would be nuts

Certainly can do! There are a couple minor variations it seems, thanks for the feedback!

Most likely based on the look of the internals, rough machining etc.

I'm an awful creator! After sourcing most of the parts I had a friend that really took a shine to the Airco. and wanted it for their own, sad to say it moved on and left me behind. I really needed a more flexible TIG setup for aluminum welding but that Hi-Freq was a powerhouse when it was working, big amps were no problem at all and the liquid cooled torch would make some serious hot water.

Hopefully a good cleaning was all that was needed!

@@fastst1 yep. Works fine now

Oh, almost! its a 4.9 efi I6

@@fastst1 I got a 91 f150 xlt lariat with the 5.0 in er it's all in beautiful shape just put a new engine in it I found out of a 92 with 70,000 original miles on it. She's a runner!😀👍🇺🇸

@@johnpaul3800 well, this one has 560k miles and needs to have the frame changed but the driveline is still rock solid!

@@fastst1 ya my last engine had 300,000 on it before the rear main went.

So you're saying the intake pipe falls out of the pump? a pressed in fit? If that's the case, you might have to expand that fitting just a little, slip it over a socket and give it a few hundred light taps with a ball peen hammer to stretch it some get it absolutely clean and reinstall it with red loctite. but you want it to be a firm fit, light press fit.

Well, also check for a silver bar versus the black bar on the hub, Excursions were a little higher end and often had the dash switch 4WD option with vacuum operated hubs. Sometimes they get swapped out with manual lockers by folks and mechanics who don't want to troubleshoot the vacuum system parts. An auto hub will have lettering that says auto and lock versus free and lock.

Good luck and have patience!

so cleaning up the intake tract cut down on the pump cavitation sounds that were coming from the pump, at its rated flow, that port was far too small and too turbulent. Summer flows are okay but winter was too restricted.

Scott, good to hear from you, the bushings on this one came out with just a punch and small sledgehammer, they were awfully loose. I found that the bucket was a good enough counterweight and I had all the cylinders blocked and chained. so it could be rolled on its wheels. The rear has the teeter axle so just two hydraulic jacks and that gave enough wiggle room to get everything adjusted, the bucket can be scooted side to side for that adjustment, The re-assembly didn't take too long at all and I'm just a creative rookie on doing this. A level work site is important. Once we were ready, I'd say getting the pins back in took about an hour, the top pin has a swivel bearing, installed that one for chassis alignment then dropped the bottom pin in,

Derek also noted below, "I was able to use the equivalent to McMaster PN 9452K154 for the oring between the plastic selector knob and the inside of the hub housing. " Mine was what looked to be a square section sealing ring but a round o-ring should work.

That's great news, good find!

does yours have the silver bar across the lock knob, it may be an auto hub.

@@fastst1 I have the silver bar for the auto hub. It's a funny piece. Where your's doesn't have the smaller spring, mine does. I also have two different ones. One from 2003 and one from 2006 (date stamps). At this point, it's now a matter of buying the expensive seal gauge for the knuckle seal and dust cover then buying the seals($$$). OR just buying warn manual hubs. Do you still have the auto hubs or have you converted (heck you might have sold the truck even ha). Peace

Indeed, worked very well and has kep a tight seal

What loctite #

@@erikmclaughlin3740 262 but if I had to do it again I'd either try the copper spray or the 518.

What about 515 is that much different i have some of that

Right around the 2:20 mark it shows the inner sleeve. So the spines on the outside are engaged to the hub, the internal splines are attached to the axle stub shaft. When you move the selector to lock, there is a sliding collar 3:00 that engages that inner sleeve, locking the hub. The knob rotation pushes a spring to let the inner sleeve shift to connect the inner sleeve to the outer hub. When the knob is moved to free, and there is no tension on the drive line, the sliding collar will be pushed away from the inner sleeve, letting it turn freely. There can be several factors that will prevent a hub from locking, heavy grease on the sliding parts, corrosion on the sliding parts and even severly worn ball joints putting tension on the sleeve and binding it up, though this also makes the hub difficult to install/remove. Pull the hub and see if you can get it to lock up while not installed. (inner spline will not turn freely)

I think you mean 'Fort' and that's true!! I can read a nomograph and will tinker with anything. Another defect in my implementation was being sold a 35gpm suction filter that was really a 10-15 gpm suction filter and a 35gpm pressure filter. If I'm missing something let me know, that's how learning happens.

Keith, this can be caused by too much grease on the slider. Pop the hub off, and make sure everything moves when the knob is turned and the center spline goes from free to lock. Hub will only unlock when all the strain is off the driveline, if you're on asphalt or a hard surface you might have to back up a bit to unload the axles.

only about 11 horsepower but enough torque to twist a driveshaft.

A little service can save a lot of trouble! Get in there and get dirty!

Ed, thanks, does your lock hub have a silver/bronze like bar that runs across the middle where mine is black? it almost sounds like it could be an auto hub if there is the rubber membrane in there. On the auto hub, the plastic piece should follow the knob rotation, the auto hubs allow the hub to lock when turning the selector but require the vacuum pulse to disengage.

@@fastst1 Yes it does, a silver porous strip that allows air into the outer chamber. You may very well be right about the auto hub, it would be logical to assume that. I bought this truck in BC a few years back from a trucking outfit. It was the owner's personal plow truck so anything is possible. Since the membrane is compromised already, I'm going to rip it out to see if I can clean and lubricate the outer chamber from the inside. If not then it's going to stay in 4 wheel drive until next summer when I just might splurge and change them out for a new set of Warn hubs. They did disengage before by dialing them back counter clockwise. Occasionally the driver's side would stick, I just tapped it gently and rolled back and forth until it stopped ratcheting. I guess I could always pop the hubs off, reset the actuator by hand and reinstall the hubs in a pinch if I really had to have 2 wheel drive. I think I've gone as far as I can with these. I'd like to thank you again for giving me the confidence to dive into this project. You and TH-cam rock!

@@edgatternig4877 Yes indeed, the hive mind does work, that's an auto locker, there is a link above that someone who did the auto locker produced, hopefully its still active. May be able to find some junkyard used hubs, or warn/dorman aftermarket replacements, they're all pretty good. Hopefully everything works out dandy for you!!

@@fastst1 You are correct sir. For the time being I rigged a wire to the plastic discs and brought it through the center of the hub so that I could pull the discs back that last little bit by hand. It will do until I can afford a new set of Warn manual hubs. Thanks for all you've done, you were a great help ;)

I'm going to look into X-Profile Fluoroelastomer O-Rings from Mcmaster Carr, I'd bet those might work dandy

Thanks, I'll check them out.

Goodness, what blew up? did you fragment the sliding dog clutch or did something strip?

Gone Biking the Warn units are likely less expensive than the OEM ones. Folks used to drill holes in the selector knob to be able to grease the hubs, that often led to a grease packed inoperable lock hub. Sounds like either that or years of pliers have taken a toll?

fastst1 I’m thinking years of pliers from the previous owner. After I got the new Warn ones installed and watching a bunch of videos here I discovered the Truck has automatic hubs. I guess the manual hubs are just for backup in case the vacuum system fails, not sure?? I’m a carpenter not a mechanic 😉.

@@adventurekevin9409 Indeed, if you have the dash select switch, but usually folks will tear a hub gasket or have a damaged vacuum line, it seems easier to swap out the hubs and ignore the vacuum shift system, though the troubleshooting is not too difficult. Don't over grease, thin grease or even light oil is dandy depending on how cold it gets. The vacuum shift trucks have 'auto' and 'lock' positions auto may stay locked without the system to disengage it but it'll get you out of a jam.

I would give the u joint a very close inspection as well as the needle bearings. Most of the hard rattles come from the sway bar end links and you can only diagnose by hitting the sway bar with a soft faced hammer to reproduce.

Yes indeed, 6.0 vgt, nothing scary in there, a snap to overhaul.

yeah they were pretty easy that's the first time I did one last year to it was a Garret. I can't believe the difference in power... Question. I cannot figure out why my hub is different than all the hubs. its the last part of taking it apart. all video show a cup for the spring and mines flat. not familar with 6.0 vgt

What does your hub fit? It may just be an aftermarket

no I think it's an original it's on a Ford F350 2002 turbo diesel is there anyway I can put up a picture

possibly save to google images and post a link.

Well, if I recall, the OEM hubs are the warn design anyway. I have factory hubs with a total of 1,500,000 miles on them, combined on 4 trucks. Once you dig into the guts the design could not be more simple. There is absolutely no load carrying capacity of the hub, none besides the weight of the lock hub itself. If the truck is loaded to the max or completely unloaded, the hub should install and remove with minimal drag of grease and the o-rings. If you have weight bearing on the lock hub from the stub shaft, you have a ball joint or axle housing problem you need to fix right away. The hub is just a sliding dog clutch, if its not free to slide, you'll have engage/disengage issues. I do like Warn products for certain, but have never needed their hubs.

Adam Fields would they not turn at all for you? Having that issue

@@fbi6540 You may well have either a ton of corrosion behind the control knob or it may be dented. If its corrosion, soaking in coca cola may work to dissolve some of the corrosion, that or dilute oxscalic acid. Have you tried gently coaxing it with pliers?