The main advantage of a center differential for bashing is that it decouples the front and rear of the drivetrain. This means that shock loads don't have to be transferred through the entire drivetrain. This helps prevent things getting broken. When you land a jump you're almost always going to be landing on the front or rear wheels first and without a center differential as those wheels change speed to match the speed against the ground the entirety of that force must be transferred through the entire drivetrain and also spin the wheels on the other end. That's potentially a lot of force. A center differential allows the wheels to spin at different speeds so that's no longer an issue. It also works kind of as a punch control preventing too much torque being applied too quickly to the drivetrain. Fortunately even if you put really thick fluid like 20 million or even ear plugs in the differential it's still is able to have these benefits though they will be somewhat diminished.
Earl 4s outside in the rain ☔ that's how you know you really do love this haddy Earl thank you for letting the kids play with the the Arrma 4S outcast tank you Earl Moorhead💯
Damn that thing was mostly dry on the inside after that run. I'm impressed. Idk if the Mojave would be the same as that, but I did bash mine yesterday and kept most of the snow out of the battery, motor, and esc. So it should be similar ish 😅 That servo on that Outcast is really slow, though. That's unfortunate, but it can always be upgraded. Great video as always man, gotta appreciate you for the work you put into these videos 😎🤘
Thanks for all the work you put into these videos! I'm debating between the Big Rock 6s vs the Outcast 4s as a second vehicle/next purchase. Im leaning towards the Outcast first as my yard is smaller. I bought a used Kraton v4 6s but it's currently being rebuilt to a V5 hybrid as I bent the chassis due to driver error and my mailbox. I think the outcast fits the bill nicely. Eventually I'll get a big rock 6s as well
Get 6s. You will get used to 4s power quick. I have a Tekno MT410 V1 thats 6s capable but I find its way more fun to bash on 5s and 6s. 4s is just meh....
@jhawk1985 4s has it place running a big area 6s might be better once your skill set is there, that’s the great thing with hobby grade rc cars you can grow with a platform 👍or if you don’t wrench buy bigger. But with more power comes bigger expenses and that’s the part many forget about and end up breaking so much they stop the hobby sometimes 2-3-4s is great for some ppl and there happy and so are there bank accounts 😜
I don’t mind the slipper clutch at all. Never once had an issue with it. Center diff might be ok for me too though. I’ll have to find out which I prefer
I have got shafted & diffed enough this year by all rc manufacturers and have met my quota for the year. Thanks for subjecting yourself so others don’t have too. Rc guy garage
Earl, I may have figured out the servo issue on Arrma Outcast 4s V2. So I turned those black guards on the front shocks to face away from the drive shaft and now it’s turning almost on a dime. I’ve had mine for about 5 months and the turning radius was always bad. I saw the wear on the drive shaft there those guard were so I just lifted the spring and now have them facing away from the drive shaft and now it’s awesome. I mean that has to be it because I haven’t changed it from stock at all. Let me know if it works for you and if it does just give me a shout out on a video. Good luck, I hope it works for you. Bill O’Leary…A Subscriber…🤙🏻
I like the 4s line. I have the V2's so Im not in a big hurry to get the V2.5s. I may upgrade to the center diff design if i brake one of my chassis on the Kraton or the Outcast. But for now I'm happy the slippers. I always run my slippers tight any way so for me I would probably just thicken up the center diff for bashing anyway! But i do like the way the new sideguards kept out all that water. That was impressive!!👍🤙💯🤪
Yeah that steering would be so annoying on a brand new rc i find most of my RC's tend to do that small circle to the left big circle to the right or vice versa. Once i changed out the servo in my felony and it done that now i centered everything and done end points but still the same so if got myself a better servo which ill install over the holidays. But a great run there in the rain... Fantastic fun. Great vid once again bro. 😊
Try out Reefs servos. They are pricey buy well worth it. Ive never damaged a Reefs servo. They are super tough and quick. Plus the chance you do strip a gear they have replacement gear sets for all their servos
I HATE the slipper in the 3s 4s line. Worst slipper I ever used. I don’t like the slipper in the slash either but I find it more bareable. But still much prefer the 6780 center diff
So I had the v2 kraton 4s non center diff , bought the outcast 4s with the center diff. I swapped them out , imo slipper clutch is fun and instant power on the outcast and now my kraton with the open diff omg so much better 🙌
The clutch was just awful. Clutch job is to try and protect ur drivetrain if it weak vs a diff giving more tunability and power distribution. It made sense on the 3s trucks. The diff gears were plastic. Truck always ran hot because the motor constantly had to be forcing all 4 tires to spin. My 4s lipos got very hot everytime i ran my kraton 4s v1 and v2. The rear huhs were cheap aluminum and kept snapping and wearing down. Those things were 15-20$. Clutch always came loose until the v2 4s with a plastic nut at the back of the hub. If the hubs were CNC machines or 7075 t6 they would last a ton longer. The clutch was hated because of non user friendly they were and how fragile they were for a “basher”. Theres no place of a clutch alone in a basher imo. Like on the nero the vehicle had 3 diffs and a clutch. So not only you had big gears with 3 diffs but you have a clutch on top of that to take the excess stress.
I ran my V1 outcast on 6s for years now with the slipper clutch modifications adding another disc really stopped all the heat it was getting then the v2 they did this stock and so far if you don’t land on power and kill it for me has been doing great but I run them tight only to slip if I do land on power by accident 👍seen so many ppl adding ear plugs to a center diff ruining what it there for on the bigger rc car as I’ve done it only when adding a ton of power while using it as a basher , setting up my Mojave speed run off road build the center diff tuning was so important not to crash that rc car that’s what the video’s here to do help ppl understand the difference 👍and what its used for 💯
The only friction part from the clutch are taken off by 3 disks. On the 4s v1 they used the 4th idsk as a spacer nothing more. Its physically impossible to have more than 3 active disks and 4 in total. Clutch generates a lot of heat due to increased friction. People been breaking the v2 axles outdrives in half because they ran way too hard with a clutch tighter than it should, that is why on the mojave and now the v2.5 have something around every single diff outdrives. My kraton 4s v1 i got it the month it came out it was my first rc and i ran it til 2022 until i sold it and got the v2 outcast. I have learned the weakpoints and struggles of the platform. I cant tell you how many times i have taken apart the clutch and had to stop to tighten the clutch midrun by shoving my allen key trought the center shaft or removing the whole diff module. Probably 100 times until i started packing setting it up at 1.5 turn from tight and never touching it once with a lot of red threadlock. That car is what started it all. My rustler 4x4 vxl was technicly my first rc but that rc was a disaster from beginning to end. It couldnt even drive on flat pavement without snapping axles. In comparaison i have been on the factory v1 kraton 4s axles from day of purchase to the day of the sell. 5-6 years of torture, diff yokes, diffs, clutch, motor mount, factory motor bearings, slipper clutch dust(destroy any motor bearing after 10-20 packs), chassis were all the weaknesses i can remember. But that truck did everything i wanted from an rc. Then i got into the 6s trucks(kraton exb) and i was running that more than it. Was just superior in every single aspect and mode exicting to full throttle launch from hills@@earlmoorhead5555
With the turning do you feel a center diff gives you better turning . Cause with my slipper it seems like I have to be off throttle to get it to turn good , or use the brakes to help bring the rear around
WOW. Arrma has been knocking it outta the park this year. All the different vehicles ,,, but , I've heard they discontinued the Vendetta. Bone stock outta the box went 71 MPH. Amazing for the cabbage. Although I ran out of real estate to get her to stop before she went weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee over a curb at around 40 MPH , lost a piece of the front end but nothing broken on the car. Wonder why the said bye bye to such an amazing RC ??? Very much appreciate you and your knowledge.
Thanks for that Earl. I have the 4s Kraton V2 with the slipper, after watching this I think I’m gonna keep running the slipper, had plans of putting the center diff in and rocking that. But naaaa. Slipper it is, also I just had the stock spectrum ESC fail and replaced it with a HW quick run 10BL120 and I’m so not happy with it. Even after all the programming on the new esc it doesn’t have nearly the same feel, power, braking, and instant power. I used to be able to backflip late in a jump tried it with the new set up and it couldn't pull out of it and nose dive and shattered the front of the chassis 👍🏻. I know it was only a $60 esc but i expected more from HOBBYWING, gonna spend the few extra bucks and go back to stock ESC.
Max10 G2 has a wide range of esc ? What amp you talking about this is where most get confused and buy the wrong one I feel the 140amp one is perfect but the 80 amp one is under powered in this application I’m pretty sure if he’s not happy at 120amp the only way he would be happy is with the 140amp or bigger esc 👀 but that’s $80.00 he got to a $175.00 140amp g2 😯
Yes I just wanted to make sure since you didn’t leave him a part number on what G2 your talking about that he knows to look at amps 🤷🏻♂️ I feel that any 120amp esc won’t feel better then stock the 1/10 scale esc on these rc cars really don’t work good on the heavy end of a 1/8 scale rc 🤷🏻♂️
It was the 120 amp hobbywing budget esc. QUICKRUN BL120, supposed to be the same amperage as the stock spectrum, last night i ordered the spectrum 150 amp the same esc that's in all the 6s arrma rigs. I'm gonna take that HW and put it in my sons Rustler as a have a spare brushless 4000kv motor laying around. He's about grown out of the XL-5 System that's in it. I've already beefed up the drive train on it as it used to be mine. HR driveshafts, HR sealed diff, it's loaded with good stuff. So I'm hoping this swap will be a win win, anyways keep up the great videos Earl!
Hello my friend looks like a awesome rigg I recently bought my first rc k6s exb but I'm looking for a second one I'm between a outcast 6s exb it's discontinued ik but found one at my local shop I do like the 6s platform but this OC 4s got me thinking jst need some that is less headache ik bashing we bound to break more parts y I'm asking what do you recommend for my second basher out of these 2 options? This a awesome ch very informative thank you just subscribed 😊
For me a center diff means i can use my 3s big rock, with a slipper i can not because it just breaks so every time you go to run it you wonder if you're going to run a full pack
Thanks for the video. I'm slowly building a 4S outcast and still need all the main internal parts, this helped me decide between the 2. Would you go spektrum or sensored hobbywing ESC and motor? I'm definitely looking to do standing back flips and other tricks. 😊
Sensored anti for me would be for racing or onroad and basher I go sensorless as the sensors in the motors are to sensitive for all them hard landing and will get destroyed quickly
I think people hate slipper clutches because they don’t build them and adjust them correctly. I have a granite I beat the breaks off of 20 foot sends and I haven’t had to adjust the slipper in 9 months. It all comes down to user capabilities and learning your cars/trucks and how to set them up.
Hey earl. Have something very interesting. I was wondering if others have experienced. I purchased both the v2(accidentally 😂) and v2.5. I ran both and I noticed that the v2 turned tremendously better. I found the v2.5 had severe oversteer. I’ll make a video tomorrow to compare. I’m also wondering if others are having the same issue. Maybe the center diff is applying weird torque to the front tires causing oversteer? Gets substantially worse as throttle is applied. V2 slightly oversteers as throttle increases.
A center differential applies power to wheels with less load so the front tires are getting all the power and the rear less so your moving slower and can’t steer it’s very noticeable 🤷🏻♂️the slipper clutch with slowly lock up all the tires so you end up getting more drive to the rear that why my last video talking about slippers vs center differential Rc guy and me both liked the slipper clutch style rc 👌
@@earlmoorhead5555 yes severely bad. The v2 could probably run laps around the v2.5. Curious if they are over engineering it. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. You’d think the center diff would help improve turning. I notice the tires jerk straight under throttle but all steering components are tight. Maybe sending to much torque to front wheels I’m not sure I’m going to call them tomorrow.
Hi Earl. Didn't know how else to get hold of you. My apologies. I've got a question for you ,, unrelated to this video though. I'm considering going 8 S with the V5 Notorious. Will the stock motor handle 8s ???? Very much appreciated
I bought some 6s shocks for my 4s do you have a video out on putting 6s shocks on a 4s . It looks like I'm gonna have to cut the spring to make it work
You need spacers to mount to the towers , you shouldn’t have to cut anything look up duperbashes video on it I have to myself to get the part number, this how I clean my tires too 😂
Yep people were bent and needing a center diff but when I directly asked why needed with RC it was crickets cause I myself saw no need. Center diff always getting 1 mil or ear plugs 😂🤣 would I buy the new one? Yep cause the ORIGINAL V2 was a knock outta the park for me. I hope the springs, all 5 of them last longer than mine did. 👍💯 Great truck for sure
I'm still learning, but after breaking 5 slippers in my arrma vorteks (my first and only slipper rc car), I've avoided them. Granted I was trying to drive it like a stunt truck city bashing. 😅
I'm surprised no one could answer your question. The answer is simple. Even with thick fluid in it a center differential allows shock loads to not be transferred through the entire drive train. For example when you land a jump you're pretty much always going to be landing on the front wheels or the back wheels first. Without a center differential the entire force of spinning up the front or rear wheels must travel All the way through the drivetrain and also spin up the wheels on the other end of the truck. This is a huge amount of force and puts a lot of strain on the entire drivetrain. A center differential decouples those forces prevents that from happening.
@@DoRC I myself know the answer 🤣 but it was I think within the question asked. That's why Traxxas has it down with the elastomer inside the cush drive just like with the LMT for Losi. Smart👍🤫
@@rcguygarage Yeah the cush drive is good but That is more for helping protect the spur and pinion gears. It doesn't decouple the front and rear of the drivetrain in any way.
The main advantage of a center differential for bashing is that it decouples the front and rear of the drivetrain. This means that shock loads don't have to be transferred through the entire drivetrain. This helps prevent things getting broken. When you land a jump you're almost always going to be landing on the front or rear wheels first and without a center differential as those wheels change speed to match the speed against the ground the entirety of that force must be transferred through the entire drivetrain and also spin the wheels on the other end. That's potentially a lot of force. A center differential allows the wheels to spin at different speeds so that's no longer an issue.
It also works kind of as a punch control preventing too much torque being applied too quickly to the drivetrain.
Fortunately even if you put really thick fluid like 20 million or even ear plugs in the differential it's still is able to have these benefits though they will be somewhat diminished.
Thank you very much. Much appreciated
Earl 4s outside in the rain ☔ that's how you know you really do love this haddy Earl thank you for letting the kids play with the the Arrma 4S outcast tank you Earl Moorhead💯
A Happy Earl! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁, you found an RC YOU REALLY LIKE!
Thanks!
Thank you 🙏
Arrma def needs to put a better servo in these
Damn that thing was mostly dry on the inside after that run. I'm impressed. Idk if the Mojave would be the same as that, but I did bash mine yesterday and kept most of the snow out of the battery, motor, and esc. So it should be similar ish 😅 That servo on that Outcast is really slow, though. That's unfortunate, but it can always be upgraded. Great video as always man, gotta appreciate you for the work you put into these videos 😎🤘
Thanks for all the work you put into these videos! I'm debating between the Big Rock 6s vs the Outcast 4s as a second vehicle/next purchase. Im leaning towards the Outcast first as my yard is smaller. I bought a used Kraton v4 6s but it's currently being rebuilt to a V5 hybrid as I bent the chassis due to driver error and my mailbox. I think the outcast fits the bill nicely. Eventually I'll get a big rock 6s as well
Get 6s. You will get used to 4s power quick. I have a Tekno MT410 V1 thats 6s capable but I find its way more fun to bash on 5s and 6s. 4s is just meh....
@jhawk1985 4s has it place running a big area 6s might be better once your skill set is there, that’s the great thing with hobby grade rc cars you can grow with a platform 👍or if you don’t wrench buy bigger. But with more power comes bigger expenses and that’s the part many forget about and end up breaking so much they stop the hobby sometimes 2-3-4s is great for some ppl and there happy and so are there bank accounts 😜
I don’t mind the slipper clutch at all. Never once had an issue with it. Center diff might be ok for me too though. I’ll have to find out which I prefer
I have got shafted & diffed enough this year by all rc manufacturers and have met my quota for the year. Thanks for subjecting yourself so others don’t have too. Rc guy garage
I think we all got the money grabbing at one point 💯
Great stunt trucks. Ive driven a few but still dont own one. This one is attractive. Great video!
Appreciate your support 💯👍🙏
Earl, I may have figured out the servo issue
on Arrma Outcast 4s V2. So I turned those black guards on the front shocks to face away from the drive shaft and now it’s turning almost on a dime.
I’ve had mine for about 5 months and the turning radius was always bad. I saw the wear on the drive shaft there those guard were so I just lifted the spring and now have them facing away from the drive shaft and now it’s awesome.
I mean that has to be it because I haven’t changed it from stock at all.
Let me know if it works for you and if it does just give me a shout out on a video.
Good luck, I hope it works for you.
Bill O’Leary…A Subscriber…🤙🏻
I like the 4s line. I have the V2's so Im not in a big hurry to get the V2.5s. I may upgrade to the center diff design if i brake one of my chassis on the Kraton or the Outcast. But for now I'm happy the slippers. I always run my slippers tight any way so for me I would probably just thicken up the center diff for bashing anyway! But i do like the way the new sideguards kept out all that water. That was impressive!!👍🤙💯🤪
Yeah that steering would be so annoying on a brand new rc i find most of my RC's tend to do that small circle to the left big circle to the right or vice versa. Once i changed out the servo in my felony and it done that now i centered everything and done end points but still the same so if got myself a better servo which ill install over the holidays. But a great run there in the rain... Fantastic fun. Great vid once again bro. 😊
Try out Reefs servos. They are pricey buy well worth it. Ive never damaged a Reefs servo. They are super tough and quick. Plus the chance you do strip a gear they have replacement gear sets for all their servos
@@jhawk1985thanks mate I'll get one and see how I get on .... Great info 👌
@@jhawk1985 Any link?
Made it too West Hollywood 🎉
Just in time for all the rain how long you here ?
I HATE the slipper in the 3s 4s line. Worst slipper I ever used. I don’t like the slipper in the slash either but I find it more bareable. But still much prefer the 6780 center diff
Could have been better for sure 👍
So I had the v2 kraton 4s non center diff , bought the outcast 4s with the center diff. I swapped them out , imo slipper clutch is fun and instant power on the outcast and now my kraton with the open diff omg so much better 🙌
The clutch was just awful. Clutch job is to try and protect ur drivetrain if it weak vs a diff giving more tunability and power distribution. It made sense on the 3s trucks. The diff gears were plastic. Truck always ran hot because the motor constantly had to be forcing all 4 tires to spin. My 4s lipos got very hot everytime i ran my kraton 4s v1 and v2. The rear huhs were cheap aluminum and kept snapping and wearing down. Those things were 15-20$. Clutch always came loose until the v2 4s with a plastic nut at the back of the hub. If the hubs were CNC machines or 7075 t6 they would last a ton longer. The clutch was hated because of non user friendly they were and how fragile they were for a “basher”. Theres no place of a clutch alone in a basher imo. Like on the nero the vehicle had 3 diffs and a clutch. So not only you had big gears with 3 diffs but you have a clutch on top of that to take the excess stress.
I ran my V1 outcast on 6s for years now with the slipper clutch modifications adding another disc really stopped all the heat it was getting then the v2 they did this stock and so far if you don’t land on power and kill it for me has been doing great but I run them tight only to slip if I do land on power by accident 👍seen so many ppl adding ear plugs to a center diff ruining what it there for on the bigger rc car as I’ve done it only when adding a ton of power while using it as a basher , setting up my Mojave speed run off road build the center diff tuning was so important not to crash that rc car that’s what the video’s here to do help ppl understand the difference 👍and what its used for 💯
The only friction part from the clutch are taken off by 3 disks. On the 4s v1 they used the 4th idsk as a spacer nothing more. Its physically impossible to have more than 3 active disks and 4 in total. Clutch generates a lot of heat due to increased friction. People been breaking the v2 axles outdrives in half because they ran way too hard with a clutch tighter than it should, that is why on the mojave and now the v2.5 have something around every single diff outdrives. My kraton 4s v1 i got it the month it came out it was my first rc and i ran it til 2022 until i sold it and got the v2 outcast. I have learned the weakpoints and struggles of the platform. I cant tell you how many times i have taken apart the clutch and had to stop to tighten the clutch midrun by shoving my allen key trought the center shaft or removing the whole diff module. Probably 100 times until i started packing setting it up at 1.5 turn from tight and never touching it once with a lot of red threadlock. That car is what started it all. My rustler 4x4 vxl was technicly my first rc but that rc was a disaster from beginning to end. It couldnt even drive on flat pavement without snapping axles. In comparaison i have been on the factory v1 kraton 4s axles from day of purchase to the day of the sell. 5-6 years of torture, diff yokes, diffs, clutch, motor mount, factory motor bearings, slipper clutch dust(destroy any motor bearing after 10-20 packs), chassis were all the weaknesses i can remember. But that truck did everything i wanted from an rc. Then i got into the 6s trucks(kraton exb) and i was running that more than it. Was just superior in every single aspect and mode exicting to full throttle launch from hills@@earlmoorhead5555
I had the same steering issue, with the new Kraton 4s.
With the turning do you feel a center diff gives you better turning . Cause with my slipper it seems like I have to be off throttle to get it to turn good , or use the brakes to help bring the rear around
WOW. Arrma has been knocking it outta the park this year. All the different vehicles ,,, but , I've heard they discontinued the Vendetta. Bone stock outta the box went 71 MPH. Amazing for the cabbage. Although I ran out of real estate to get her to stop before she went weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee over a curb at around 40 MPH , lost a piece of the front end but nothing broken on the car. Wonder why the said bye bye to such an amazing RC ??? Very much appreciate you and your knowledge.
Idk 🤷🏻♂️ don’t think they were selling good but I’m hoping they bring it back
Thank you. Very much appreciated
Thanks for that Earl. I have the 4s Kraton V2 with the slipper, after watching this I think I’m gonna keep running the slipper, had plans of putting the center diff in and rocking that. But naaaa. Slipper it is, also I just had the stock spectrum ESC fail and replaced it with a HW quick run 10BL120 and I’m so not happy with it. Even after all the programming on the new esc it doesn’t have nearly the same feel, power, braking, and instant power. I used to be able to backflip late in a jump tried it with the new set up and it couldn't pull out of it and nose dive and shattered the front of the chassis 👍🏻. I know it was only a $60 esc but i expected more from HOBBYWING, gonna spend the few extra bucks and go back to stock ESC.
Max10 G2 would have been better
Max10 G2 has a wide range of esc ? What amp you talking about this is where most get confused and buy the wrong one I feel the 140amp one is perfect but the 80 amp one is under powered in this application I’m pretty sure if he’s not happy at 120amp the only way he would be happy is with the 140amp or bigger esc 👀 but that’s $80.00 he got to a $175.00 140amp g2 😯
@@earlmoorhead5555 There’s always the RTR SC8 I use them for years and still use them on 4s trucks, the can’t be beat at 61.00!
Yes I just wanted to make sure since you didn’t leave him a part number on what G2 your talking about that he knows to look at amps 🤷🏻♂️ I feel that any 120amp esc won’t feel better then stock the 1/10 scale esc on these rc cars really don’t work good on the heavy end of a 1/8 scale rc 🤷🏻♂️
It was the 120 amp hobbywing budget esc. QUICKRUN BL120, supposed to be the same amperage as the stock spectrum, last night i ordered the spectrum 150 amp the same esc that's in all the 6s arrma rigs. I'm gonna take that HW and put it in my sons Rustler as a have a spare brushless 4000kv motor laying around. He's about grown out of the XL-5 System that's in it. I've already beefed up the drive train on it as it used to be mine. HR driveshafts, HR sealed diff, it's loaded with good stuff. So I'm hoping this swap will be a win win, anyways keep up the great videos Earl!
Hello my friend looks like a awesome rigg I recently bought my first rc k6s exb but I'm looking for a second one I'm between a outcast 6s exb it's discontinued ik but found one at my local shop I do like the 6s platform but this OC 4s got me thinking jst need some that is less headache ik bashing we bound to break more parts y I'm asking what do you recommend for my second basher out of these 2 options? This a awesome ch very informative thank you just subscribed 😊
I own the older V2. No center diff needed in the 4s outcast. More weight. Bulk. And increased maintence.
For me a center diff means i can use my 3s big rock, with a slipper i can not because it just breaks so every time you go to run it you wonder if you're going to run a full pack
I noticed the same thing on the arrma 4s lineup and the steering.
Thanks for the video. I'm slowly building a 4S outcast and still need all the main internal parts, this helped me decide between the 2. Would you go spektrum or sensored hobbywing ESC and motor? I'm definitely looking to do standing back flips and other tricks. 😊
Sensored anti for me would be for racing or onroad and basher I go sensorless as the sensors in the motors are to sensitive for all them hard landing and will get destroyed quickly
Slipper works better as gets hot center diff loosens up but most people seem to lock the center up anyway so than act similar
I think people hate slipper clutches because they don’t build them and adjust them correctly. I have a granite I beat the breaks off of 20 foot sends and I haven’t had to adjust the slipper in 9 months. It all comes down to user capabilities and learning your cars/trucks and how to set them up.
Yep 👍
😎💯💯💯
I like this version of the V2 4s more than the 6s. The 6s is better on 4s IMO. The 4s V2.5 would be killer on 5s.
So it still turns like the first v2.. smh that's what I wanted to see fixed
Hey earl. Have something very interesting. I was wondering if others have experienced.
I purchased both the v2(accidentally 😂) and v2.5. I ran both and I noticed that the v2 turned tremendously better. I found the v2.5 had severe oversteer. I’ll make a video tomorrow to compare. I’m also wondering if others are having the same issue.
Maybe the center diff is applying weird torque to the front tires causing oversteer? Gets substantially worse as throttle is applied. V2 slightly oversteers as throttle increases.
A center differential applies power to wheels with less load so the front tires are getting all the power and the rear less so your moving slower and can’t steer it’s very noticeable 🤷🏻♂️the slipper clutch with slowly lock up all the tires so you end up getting more drive to the rear that why my last video talking about slippers vs center differential Rc guy and me both liked the slipper clutch style rc 👌
@@earlmoorhead5555 not sure why I said oversteer. Meant understeer.
@aaronmoore5552 yes a bad push I think I understood what you meant?
@@earlmoorhead5555 but it makes it almost undrivable compared to the v2. Crazy turn radius past 1/4 throttle.
@@earlmoorhead5555 yes severely bad. The v2 could probably run laps around the v2.5. Curious if they are over engineering it. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. You’d think the center diff would help improve turning. I notice the tires jerk straight under throttle but all steering components are tight. Maybe sending to much torque to front wheels I’m not sure I’m going to call them tomorrow.
Hi Earl. Didn't know how else to get hold of you. My apologies. I've got a question for you ,, unrelated to this video though. I'm considering going 8 S with the V5 Notorious. Will the stock motor handle 8s ???? Very much appreciated
Yes the motor won’t care just watch temps and adjust gears to temps
I bought some 6s shocks for my 4s do you have a video out on putting 6s shocks on a 4s . It looks like I'm gonna have to cut the spring to make it work
You need spacers to mount to the towers , you shouldn’t have to cut anything look up duperbashes video on it I have to myself to get the part number, this how I clean my tires too 😂
Arrma stole the muds guards on the outcast like how they are on the sledge
Just got my 4s v2.5 kraton
To many wheel stands.
I know less throttle on take off.
How about a center diff oil change?
Thinner fluid stop wheelies
It is possible to add a slipper to a bigger car, like the Notorious?
Just to see the diffrence.
Haven’t seen a center slipper clutch design yet 🤷🏻♂️
Yep, center diff = Truggy imo
Can you upgrade the outcast v2 with a center diff or it can’t be done?
It can be done .
Do you think I’ll be able to add a center diff to the first v2 outcast ?
Yes
Yep people were bent and needing a center diff but when I directly asked why needed with RC it was crickets cause I myself saw no need. Center diff always getting 1 mil or ear plugs 😂🤣 would I buy the new one? Yep cause the ORIGINAL V2 was a knock outta the park for me. I hope the springs, all 5 of them last longer than mine did. 👍💯 Great truck for sure
I'm still learning, but after breaking 5 slippers in my arrma vorteks (my first and only slipper rc car), I've avoided them. Granted I was trying to drive it like a stunt truck city bashing. 😅
I to like the v2 outcast and seeing this v2.5 keep all the water out I was impressed with that change for sure 👍
I'm surprised no one could answer your question. The answer is simple. Even with thick fluid in it a center differential allows shock loads to not be transferred through the entire drive train. For example when you land a jump you're pretty much always going to be landing on the front wheels or the back wheels first. Without a center differential the entire force of spinning up the front or rear wheels must travel All the way through the drivetrain and also spin up the wheels on the other end of the truck. This is a huge amount of force and puts a lot of strain on the entire drivetrain.
A center differential decouples those forces prevents that from happening.
@@DoRC I myself know the answer 🤣 but it was I think within the question asked. That's why Traxxas has it down with the elastomer inside the cush drive just like with the LMT for Losi. Smart👍🤫
@@rcguygarage Yeah the cush drive is good but That is more for helping protect the spur and pinion gears. It doesn't decouple the front and rear of the drivetrain in any way.
I bet she is overall slower on a speed pull than the slipper design?
Yes
Are those 3.8 tires?
There stock idk never checked arrma site
Everyone wants a center diff and locks it anyways 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Yep
Thanks!
Appreciate your support 🙏💯
Thanks!
Appreciate your support