Thank you very much for this video. I was able too fix it myself and save a lot of money and the leaking stopped. Also you make it look easy thanks again
@@AJ-nj3bt great question and thanks for reaching out. Yes you can bypass one or the other or both if needed. Shut off valves really help during summer as well.
I have a question when u replace radiator on newer CASCADIA they have a transmission cooler mounted on the radiator do we take that off with the radiator
The trans cooler is incorporated into the radiator assembly so it’s all one piece. They may be an addition power steering cooler in front of the radiator on some applications.
great video as always. I have a 2014 freightliner cascadia where when you turn on the bunk heater the light comes on for 3 seconds then turns off. what could cause this
Hi there. Could you tell me whether the front heater cores are the same on the new body cascadias and the old ones that left in 2017. Same part# and same location. Thanks
Hey Sir I have smart park installed in cascadia recently replaced the heater core due to internal leak Every time I turn on heater it works fine for a couple mins but then stopped blowing hot air Do you know what could be issue? Kindly guide thank you
I have Questions for you buddy first of all thanks for very help full video My 2013 Cascadia when am start in morning bunk blowing cold but when engine get hot start blowing hot what will be the problem? Thanks for your time to answer my question Have a great day
Appreciate you watching man and reaching out. This could be due to a couple of issues. Does the cab system stay cold and just the bunk start blowing warm. Or does both cab and bunk blow warm when the engine is at operating temps.. Depending on the answer it will lead me in diff directions.
I have an issue where today my ac was going in and out then on the way back to the house it started to climb in temp,I stopped on side of road and raised the hod and it was coolant just pouring out from the top of engine bay passenger side and I could not see exactly from where,and I had to add another gallon of coóant just to make it home. I wished I could share photos and the short video I took. But then there is what appears to be a hose ( medium) size that looked like another piece went into it missing. 2013 cascadia
Thanks for reaching out. Man I’m sorry to hear that. A lot of times with these older engines the def coolant heater lines are the problem. Which go from the top of the engine to the def tank. But as we all know a 2013 will most likely need all the coolant lines replaced due to age and disintegration. Just be ready to replace multiple lines in this case.
Thanks for watching and reaching out. Couldn’t do this without you guys. You do not have to vacuum the cooling system but it is best to as it will leak a good amount. I drain the block of coolant and vacuum the rest in the lines so there is minimal mess. Hope that helps
Thanks for watching and the next great video idea. For some reason I don’t see many front heater core failures especially on the newer ones. But when one goes down I’ll try to snatch it up and record it. Stay safe out there
Great question the one way to really test it it’s clean it all up ,put the system under pressure, and monitor. Rarely is it just that hose but yes It can happen
I see you use a reverse pressure tester, where can I get one or which one would you recommend. I have only done minimal research on it…..just easier to get a recommendation.
I believe mine is a Matco brand cooling system vaccum tool. Any will do the job. I would just look for one that stands behind there warranty because the seals do fail from time to time. Definitely ones in handy when you need to change something quick.
Does this apply to all years of cascadias? I know some of the new ones have a battery powered rear system. I guess I'm asking what year did they switch and how would you know which is which?
This does not apply to all cascadias. But this does cover a majority of them. There are always some that have chosen a no idle system for the rear and that would be much different. The new cascadia is pretty close to this one so never needed to update the video.
I’m losing 1 gallon of coolant every 6k miles. Took out the EGR and it’s dry, no leaks or puddles under the truck, did a pressure test and it’s all good. Check my heater core and it’s not wet or so like in the video, what do you think could be the problem? I got a 2019 cascadia btw
Check your injector Capps I had that issue before… check your fuel filter or fuel tank. If you see coolant in your fuel tanks it means your injectors are leaking. I would recommend you to go to TX it’s very cheaper than other States
Hey Im trying to figure out about my Electric Apu it blowing cold air when I put it on heat. I was thinking it might be the heater buk and I saw some leaks as well bruh…what you think I should do bruh?????
I replaced mine and it's still leaking. Does it matter that I used the old clamps?....it's won't leak if the truck has been running.....once it starts to cools it drips like crazy....Any suggestions??..bad replacement heater core or old clip clamps not snugged enough?
Thanks for watching and reaching out. Never reuse the original clamps . They will leak every time. Gta use new hoses and clamps for sure. And every time you take a clamp off especially the spring type clamp from anywhere else, make sure to replace them since they will not continue to hood tension once removed.
I’m not following where you are inside the truck… driver or passenger side? You’re saying “left” but that’s not clear. Are you under the bunk? Under a cabinet? I have a 2016 Coronado with a fridge behind the driver seat. In the passenger side side box I have something “walled off” towards the back of the side box but….? I don’t see anyway of getting to whatever it is.
I’d like to see you change the def tank heater lines. The ones that go from pass side head to def tank. Up over the tranny. Those break all the damn time. Haven’t found a short cut yet.
Thanks for watching man. Don’t forget to pass on the videos to all your peeps. Surprisingly they don’t fail that often. And when they do it’s usually a wire rubbed through right by the def doser heat shielding. For me it’s easiest to do both at the same time and build it outside the truck than route them both in together. Makes the job so much easier.
i have qustion.. i ahve 2015 cascadia with parksmart system . when i turn the heat on for the bunk ( the truck shut off cold) the system work and heat the hoses all the way to the engine then after 30 minutes the heater stops and blow cold air . is it the heater core or the bunk temperature sensuer .. i do need your experience. thank you.
im thinking is somthing telling the heater to shut off is it the temperature bunk sensor or bad core .. mybe im wrong. i though to ask experience tech.. i do need your help.
Expect to pay about 4 hrs labor whatever shop rate is and parts is about $100. But I can’t mention my shop on here till I somehow come up with my own place. Hopefully one of these days. Thanks for watching.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 good so I can either do that or can I just connect a hose to both end? Want to take the whole cabinet out and kinda remodel the whole cab and would really like that space.
@@cristoperodriguezgil8075 yes definitely that will work just fine as well. A lot of good space right there for a workout bench or pull up bar. Well it’s summertime so maybe smoothie machine space.
Great question. You’ve got three choices. Drain the system like normal. Put system under a vaccum using a reverse pressure tester (which is what I do) Or pinch of coolant lines going to the rear of the cab. Theres usually some soft lines you can pinch off and only leaks small amount. But man there is always coolant leaks. It never fails.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 also my back right tail light it’s staying on and my right one and plate lights are off but turn signals and brake lights work any idea?
@@cristoperodriguezgil8075 depending on what truck you have you might have a short to power across one of your chassis wires. Possible corrosion in your Sam chassis causing a power crossover. Or just a. Bad module. For this issue I like to use a computer and see if power is being sent out. I’d not I’d go right to a multimeter and trace power coming out of the module. That would tell me if there was a module problem or wiring problem. Hope that helps.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 thanks for the response I have. 2015 freight liner cascadia I’m going to try and remove the Sam chassis and clean it and check the wires. I have a computer but don’t have the nequick thing thanks again
Heres a parts list that should help you out with everthing you need. HEATER CORE KIT------001V/VCC T1000899G HEATER HOSE------------001V/GT 4230SB3/4------1FT HEATER HOSE-------------001V/GT 4230SB5/8-----1FT CLAMP 9/16-------------001V/BRZ 9210H-----------TIMES 2 CLAMP 11/16-------------001V/BRZ 9212H--------TIMES 2
By the by your videos are really helpful and informative. Keep them going.
Appreciate it man, just the motivation I need to make more and stop slacking.
Thank you very much for this video. I was able too fix it myself and save a lot of money and the leaking stopped. Also you make it look easy thanks again
Glad it came in handy, and don’t forget these vids can make great Xmas presents for the last min shopper.
Do u have the part number for the heater core??
Awesome job. I’ll do it today. Thanks to show the best way to replace the core.
Thanks for the positive feedback man.
Man, you’re awesome! Need one on cleaning the bunk evaporator and the cab evaporator! But I learned a lot watching this!
Thanks for the positive feedback and the further idea for another video.
Made it look like my 17 year old could do it. Excellent video.
Thank for the positive feedback. Although I wouldn’t trust my 17 yr old to do this. She wouldn’t know what to do with a wrench.
Great vedio as always, my question is, if i bypass the sleeper heater core, would the front one still work? Thank you
@@AJ-nj3bt great question and thanks for reaching out. Yes you can bypass one or the other or both if needed. Shut off valves really help during summer as well.
You’re awesome thank you so much.
What’s does hoses part # thanks this video I thought it was hoses leaking 😅
What size are the rubber hose that was replaced
I have a question when u replace radiator on newer CASCADIA they have a transmission cooler mounted on the radiator do we take that off with the radiator
The trans cooler is incorporated into the radiator assembly so it’s all one piece. They may be an addition power steering cooler in front of the radiator on some applications.
Do you have video for new cascadia 126 2019 up it little bit different then old one
great video as always. I have a 2014 freightliner cascadia where when you turn on the bunk heater the light comes on for 3 seconds then turns off. what could cause this
This could be caused by a setting such as key on when it needs to be off or a fault code on the display that would need to be looked into.
Keep doing your thing champ, 2 issues I had and your face comes up first.
Appreciate the positive feedback. Can’t do it without support from viewers like yourself. Stay safe out there.
Are those lines 3/4 and 5/8s ?
Can you make video how to add freon park smart
Nice thanks for all
Hi there. Could you tell me whether the front heater cores are the same on the new body cascadias and the old ones that left in 2017. Same part# and same location. Thanks
They are different part numbers.
Hey Sir I have smart park installed in cascadia recently replaced the heater core due to internal leak
Every time I turn on heater it works fine for a couple mins but then stopped blowing hot air
Do you know what could be issue?
Kindly guide thank you
I was told the dealership was the only shop that could replace bunk heater core on my 2016 cascadia.
Yep i heard that too. Jd knows what hes talking about. Im doing this right now in an autozone parking lot
@@dieselthegrey you remember the price of the heater core by any chance
@Ali i want to say my kit was $180ish with tax. One kit is more expensive than the other. Aftermarkets work fine too. Ive used them before as well.
@@dieselthegrey thanks for the response.
You make it look easy.
Really nice video sir thanks 🙏 a lot i got the same thing in my cascadia
Thanks for reaching out and Glad it came in handy Hope more vids on the channel come to benefit you.
Part # and where can I get it? Frieghtliner didn’t have it!
I usually get one from the dealer but other wise just a search online.
Good job man!
I have Questions for you buddy first of all thanks for very help full video
My 2013 Cascadia when am start in morning bunk blowing cold but when engine get hot start blowing hot what will be the problem?
Thanks for your time to answer my question
Have a great day
Appreciate you watching man and reaching out. This could be due to a couple of issues. Does the cab system stay cold and just the bunk start blowing warm. Or does both cab and bunk blow warm when the engine is at operating temps.. Depending on the answer it will lead me in diff directions.
Do u have a prt number for the heater core
I have an issue where today my ac was going in and out then on the way back to the house it started to climb in temp,I stopped on side of road and raised the hod and it was coolant just pouring out from the top of engine bay passenger side and I could not see exactly from where,and I had to add another gallon of coóant just to make it home. I wished I could share photos and the short video I took. But then there is what appears to be a hose ( medium) size that looked like another piece went into it missing. 2013 cascadia
Thanks for reaching out. Man I’m sorry to hear that. A lot of times with these older engines the def coolant heater lines are the problem. Which go from the top of the engine to the def tank. But as we all know a 2013 will most likely need all the coolant lines replaced due to age and disintegration. Just be ready to replace multiple lines in this case.
Do you have an email so that I may share the vid and photos, because I just don't know what I should be looking for.
@@CHarris73 good question. But I don’t have one dedicated to TH-cam yet. I should probably get on that though.
Best video on TH-cam that shows heater core replacement. Do you have to vacuum the refrigerant for this job? Thumbs up 👍and new subscriber.
Thanks for watching and reaching out. Couldn’t do this without you guys.
You do not have to vacuum the cooling system but it is best to as it will leak a good amount. I drain the block of coolant and vacuum the rest in the lines so there is minimal mess. Hope that helps
Hey can you do a video on putting a heater core in the front
Thanks for watching and the next great video idea. For some reason I don’t see many front heater core failures especially on the newer ones. But when one goes down I’ll try to snatch it up and record it. Stay safe out there
Awesome show
i think my truck is doing the same thing. How do you know its not the hose?
Great question the one way to really test it it’s clean it all up ,put the system under pressure, and monitor. Rarely is it just that hose but yes It can happen
MAN OH MAN YOU GOOD BRO!!👍🏼👍🏼
I see you use a reverse pressure tester, where can I get one or which one would you recommend. I have only done minimal research on it…..just easier to get a recommendation.
I believe mine is a Matco brand cooling system vaccum tool. Any will do the job. I would just look for one that stands behind there warranty because the seals do fail from time to time. Definitely ones in handy when you need to change something quick.
Does this apply to all years of cascadias? I know some of the new ones have a battery powered rear system. I guess I'm asking what year did they switch and how would you know which is which?
This does not apply to all cascadias. But this does cover a majority of them. There are always some that have chosen a no idle system for the rear and that would be much different. The new cascadia is pretty close to this one so never needed to update the video.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 thank you it's much appreciated
I’m losing 1 gallon of coolant every 6k miles. Took out the EGR and it’s dry, no leaks or puddles under the truck, did a pressure test and it’s all good. Check my heater core and it’s not wet or so like in the video, what do you think could be the problem?
I got a 2019 cascadia btw
Check your injector Capps I had that issue before… check your fuel filter or fuel tank. If you see coolant in your fuel tanks it means your injectors are leaking. I would recommend you to go to TX it’s very cheaper than other States
Great job brother
Awesome video very well explanation and straight to the point, very funny comments too lol
Hey Im trying to figure out about my Electric Apu it blowing cold air when I put it on heat. I was thinking it might be the heater buk and I saw some leaks as well bruh…what you think I should do bruh?????
Thanks for reaching out. I haven’t worked on a electric apu before. Are u sure it’s not gas operated. This would change how the functions operate.
Wat size hose did you use
Great question I believe one was 5/8 and one was 3/4.
So does the bunk also have an evaporator coil?
Yes it does
I just looked under the truck yeah and and the expansion valve comes with a new one when you buy it
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 thank u
If I don't have a pressure test or to remove all antifreeze can I just pinch the hose lines to remove it
Great question, you can do that but… you may not get it closed enough. Than you would have to work quick to not make a mess and lose it all.
Well I got ir done .made a little.mess pinch the hoses but still lost some coolant over all not a bad job to do your self easy 1 hour job. 😀
@@rigobertohernandez2524 glad it worked out for you. Much more satisfying knowing you can do it yourself and saving that money.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228k thank you for your videos 🙏🙏
Thanks man for help.
I replaced mine and it's still leaking. Does it matter that I used the old clamps?....it's won't leak if the truck has been running.....once it starts to cools it drips like crazy....Any suggestions??..bad replacement heater core or old clip clamps not snugged enough?
Thanks for watching and reaching out. Never reuse the original clamps . They will leak every time. Gta use new hoses and clamps for sure. And every time you take a clamp off especially the spring type clamp from anywhere else, make sure to replace them since they will not continue to hood tension once removed.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 thanks for the info, I'll replace the old clamps today. I did everything right except for new clamps
I’m not following where you are inside the truck… driver or passenger side? You’re saying “left” but that’s not clear. Are you under the bunk? Under a cabinet?
I have a 2016 Coronado with a fridge behind the driver seat. In the passenger side side box I have something “walled off” towards the back of the side box but….? I don’t see anyway of getting to whatever it is.
I’d like to see you change the def tank heater lines. The ones that go from pass side head to def tank. Up over the tranny. Those break all the damn time. Haven’t found a short cut yet.
Thanks for watching man. Don’t forget to pass on the videos to all your peeps.
Surprisingly they don’t fail that often. And when they do it’s usually a wire rubbed through right by the def doser heat shielding. For me it’s easiest to do both at the same time and build it outside the truck than route them both in together. Makes the job so much easier.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228I want you to do some work on my truck what’s your store number please 🙏
@@kidthatdid7270 if you don’t mind dealer rates than come on down. I’m at chandler freightliner in Az.
I have this leak going on right now
2010 freightliner
Buen trabajo hermano, el problema que tengo yo es que no me hecha aire frio, solo caliente, sabes como puedo resolver? Gracias
i have qustion.. i ahve 2015 cascadia with parksmart system . when i turn the heat on for the bunk ( the truck shut off cold) the system work and heat the hoses all the way to the engine then after 30 minutes the heater stops and blow cold air . is it the heater core or the bunk temperature sensuer .. i do need your experience. thank you.
it does blow hot air in the sleeper then 30 minutes the heater shuts off and just blowing cold air.
im thinking is somthing telling the heater to shut off is it the temperature bunk sensor or bad core .. mybe im wrong. i though to ask experience tech.. i do need your help.
baterry operate .. the heater brand brand hydronic .. run on deisel
How much do you charge for this job and where are you located?
Expect to pay about 4 hrs labor whatever shop rate is and parts is about $100. But I can’t mention my shop on here till I somehow come up with my own place. Hopefully one of these days. Thanks for watching.
Could I remove this whole system? Out?
Great question, yes you can by just bypassing the coolant that goes to it. Some people have shut off valves going to the bunk for summertime.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 good so I can either do that or can I just connect a hose to both end? Want to take the whole cabinet out and kinda remodel the whole cab and would really like that space.
And thank you for the response
@@cristoperodriguezgil8075 yes definitely that will work just fine as well. A lot of good space right there for a workout bench or pull up bar. Well it’s summertime so maybe smoothie machine space.
Is it necessary to have to drain the coolant? I’ve drain my coolant 3 times in the last 3 months lol
Great question. You’ve got three choices.
Drain the system like normal.
Put system under a vaccum using a reverse pressure tester (which is what I do)
Or pinch of coolant lines going to the rear of the cab. Theres usually some soft lines you can pinch off and only leaks small amount.
But man there is always coolant leaks. It never fails.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 u ain’t lying I’m thinking of pinching the end or putting a plug or something. Thanks for the reply
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 also my back right tail light it’s staying on and my right one and plate lights are off but turn signals and brake lights work any idea?
@@cristoperodriguezgil8075 depending on what truck you have you might have a short to power across one of your chassis wires. Possible corrosion in your Sam chassis causing a power crossover. Or just a. Bad module. For this issue I like to use a computer and see if power is being sent out. I’d not I’d go right to a multimeter and trace power coming out of the module. That would tell me if there was a module problem or wiring problem. Hope that helps.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 thanks for the response I have. 2015 freight liner cascadia I’m going to try and remove the Sam chassis and clean it and check the wires. I have a computer but don’t have the nequick thing thanks again
Buen trabajo amigo, sorry x el idioma 😀🤷♂️ pero entiendo muy bien todo lo que haces y un gran profesional 🙋♂️
Grasias por los comentarios positivos ago lo que puedo para alludar. Siga motivado
Whats the hose sizes
Heres a parts list that should help you out with everthing you need.
HEATER CORE KIT------001V/VCC T1000899G
HEATER HOSE------------001V/GT 4230SB3/4------1FT
HEATER HOSE-------------001V/GT 4230SB5/8-----1FT
CLAMP 9/16-------------001V/BRZ 9210H-----------TIMES 2
CLAMP 11/16-------------001V/BRZ 9212H--------TIMES 2
Like it thank you