Shocking Nitrate Results - Should I Be Worried?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2020
- I almost didn’t release this video! My nitrate test results, using four different test kits, were shocking, humbling, embarrassing and have me rethinking my maintenance routine...and wondering about the accuracy and reliability of these popular water tests.
Should I be worried? Am I over reacting to the results? Watch, hear my conclusions at the end and let me know what you think.
In this video I use four different kits to test a sample of water from my heaviest stocked tank, my 100 gallon.
The kits I used were:
API Freshwater Master Test Kit
Seachem Multi Test Nitrite / Nitrate Test Kit
Salifert Nitrate (NO3)
Tetra EasyStrips 6 in 1
The results went from "concerning" to "shocking and alarming!"
But should I trust the results? And if I do, what would be my best course of action? What would you do with these results?
Take a look and share your thoughts in the comments below. I'm anxious to hear what you have to say (my "Convo Gang" buddies) and to find out what your experience has been with these kits.
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I work in a lab, Ben. These kits would be considered a screening tool at best. All of them. Use it as a gauge, regardless of the "actual value" the kit shows. As you said, all 4 indicate a water change was necessary. Stick with one, follow the range you get there. If you want to be sure you are accomplishing the mission to lower nitrates, test again an hour or so after you change the water. Again, sticking to one kit is comparing apples to apples, not apples to bananas., oranges or pears. Unless and until we have a standard or qc with a known amount of nitrates to ensure the kits are working as expected we are only estimating, so best to use the same ruler each time we measure.
Franci Arroyo great comment 🙏
Thanks, Ben
If one is really interested in getting more accurate nitrate readouts then one should invest in a photometer versus using these cheap test kits. Hannah sells one and even a multiparameter one for all your testing needs.
www.hannainst.com/multiparameter-photometer-and-ph-meter-hi83300.html
I personally owned the older model and I can tell you it's easier to read your water parameters. I do planted tanks so reading my Fe, Mg, Ca, P, N, K and even metals like Cu, Mn and Zinc are part of my routine.
The problem with the cheap test kits is you end up being too unsure with your water parameters once you get different results from different kits which defeats the purpose of testing.
If you own expensive fish or run multiple tanks and are concerned with your water parameters then one should not rely on these cheap kits.
@Rob D I agree...I ran a little test of my own...I did a test before a 50% WC and got a reading of 40-50ppm. I again did the same test 24 hours after the WC but got the same results!
A most useful feedback!
Man with one watch, always knows what time it is. Man with two watches, never sure.
...and a stopped watch is correct twice a day 😉😀😉 You're right, in some ways all this side-by-side testing did was create concern and confusion. Thanks for watching.
Great point lol
Knowing that nitrates are not an issue until they are over like 400 for months, I check once a month and do once a month 50% water changes. Doing this for over 15 years with never a fish problem. My API test kit is over 10 years old and shows the same readings as my new one of 6 months. So much for their expiration date.
There is a disturbance in the force!
Thank you for the comparison
I feel like it used to be so simple to keep fish before all this new tech and tests. I would trust more your 'eye test' of how the livestock is doing and keep up with maintenance and water change for refreshing the tank. I do tests too but sometimes i feel like it is an overkill. Thank you for this comparison exercise.
I’ll only rely on them for a very general idea of what’s going on and combine the results with my observations.
Man was this video needed! I've been struggling with figuring this out for over a year now.
You're not alone. The comments here are very eye opening.
Once again another great video. My Personel experience the API always have high nitrate results. Great vid keep me coming.
Thank you!
Thanks Ben great to see the different results , but I knew this was going to happen and glad it’s out to your fans and open for discussion.
I often raise my eyebrows when people say they have 5ppm of nitrate in a heavy stocked tank🤷🏼♂️
Your fish look healthy and that’s all that matters👍
So many factors to consider, color, activity, appetite, etc I've calmed down and come up with a strategy. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you for the information. I have a 16 gal fluval spec. I do regular small changes. I did not do regular testing. I started to lose cardinal tetras. I used the API kit and got a reading over 60 . I started 10% water changes 2x per day. I still lost 2 fish per day. After 3 days no more fatalities. Lesion learned . Do frequent water changes and test to be sure that more is not needed. I am now testing at .05 nitrates and fish are happy. Love your information and now know to just err on side of caution.
Hey Ben, I always have a high result in my Mbuna tank. Water change or not...always 40 80..fish are thriving....tap water has 5 ppm....does get frustrating....nice review 👍👍
I wouldn't worry about it Ben, nitrates are pretty high coming out of my tap and that's all i have, i haven't lost fish from that. I mainly use these kits to check everything else or as just a reference. I say dont fix what ain't broke just keep doing what you're doing because your fish are beautiful and that speaks for itself.
A lot of truth in your suggestion Jesse, thanks!
Unfortunately I think some of these companies are all about money. Quantity over quality, thanks for the demonstration. Great video
omg thank you so much for this video Ben! i panicked recently when I was getting some off readings but my water was not showing much increase in overall TDS! (my tap water is 180TDS at 25C with zero nitrates and my tank TDS was 199 TDS but nitrates on master test kit was showing 40PPM or more! - I use a TDS pen to keep track of my TDS regularly) had to buy several of these tests to confirm ! I think the API is not as accurate as we would like it to be! not gonna recommend it or buy it anymore! love your videos! cheers!
There's a dark "conspiracy theorist" corner of my mind that thinks, "higher nitrates means more water changes, which means selling more water conditioner..." But I'm probably being silly. I'm over my panic and I've gone back to basics, essentially larger WCs and feeding less.
Ben Ochart I use a TDS pen - it gives me a basic idea! Best $20 investment imo
@@AquaMalik TDS pen is far from accurate.
My Tap water TDS is 110 but my Water Hardness is 140 PPM.
The test kit is probably more accurate than a chinese TDS pen.
Thank u sir for the info .. I to have been struggling with this and now I have some peace of mind and won't be alarmed so to say .. however I do still have some flashing and would like that gone
Good Video topic.. I use the API master kit. I follow suggestions on drops and shake.. Have had results in line with maturity of tank, and actions of fish. After 40 years of fishkeeping, there is a baseline of what works or not.. The test kit helps me recognize, out of the ordinary, water conditions..
Yes, my conclusion exactly. It's like a bird dog that should get us to look into a area but not rock solid 100% truth. Thanks for stopping by Free Swimmer!
Are you kidding me I just did an API test yesterday and in a heavy planted tank I got the same results as you I was panicked ! Did a water change
RO water got the same results
Wtf. Just did this yesterday and you come out with this video ! I was going to purchase a different Test kit today you just saved me some money ! I tested 10 of my tanks
Test results were all the same screw API
My Peep's I agree I’ve been testing my tanks the past couple months and they all show wicked high nitrates no matter how much water I change
same as me as well. Very happy you did this video. I will for now on not worry to much about Nitrates and rely more on how my fish are doing visually with regular / weekly water changes
I'm going to use test kits as a bird dog to point in a direction I should look into, taking into account all the factors (appearance, appetite, activity, etc) and not allow the results to alarm me. I believe that what I spotted was a gradual nitrate increase that over a very long period of time might have created a pH crash, nitrate being an acid (nitric acid). So, larger or more frequent water changes and feeding a bit less should bring about the needed tweak/adjustment that growing fish and more stock have brought about over time. API is getting a bad rap in this thread. They need a wake up call and social media can help bring that about.
Very interesting test Ben. More inconsistencies and variables in our efforts to have excellent water quality. Surely in today's time we can have a test kit that's accurate in testing water? We can put man on the moon, travel at supersonic speeds, and more, you'd think we could test aquarium water accurately and easily.
Good video sir, thank you 👍
I agree. Makes no sense that we can't get a simple accurate test.
I'm in the middle of making a very similar video! It's amazing how much variance there is between kits!!
I’m like you Ben what do we trust, that being said I think the best test is the one we do visually every day as we spend time with our fish. The tests to me are a reference to double check what I’m seeing in my tank. I look at the surface of the water and it will tell you a lot on water condition. Is there bubbles or a lot of particulate on the surface. We as fish keepers tend to second guess ourselves a lot because of different factors such as tests or TH-cam videos we see. That’s why your channel rocks. You are genuine in your pursuit of the hobby and that I can trust!!! Keep ‘em coming sir
Thank you, and you're right, nothing beats our direct observation. A while back I posted a video about how our fish are talking to us, but "Are We Listening?"
Thank you for this video. Just like you, I am trying to get to the bottom of my nitrate problem. All my numbers are good except for nitrates. And water changes don't seem to change my numbers. Thank you again for this insight full video.
I stopped worrying about nitrates. I do my best to keep the tanks in tip top shape but I’ve realized that the fish are quite resilient and can adapt to a range of parameters. This doesn’t apply of course to ammonia and nitrite which must stay at zero.
Very similar to my results when I tested these myself. I stopped using API for NO3. It’s worthless for that. I do use for PH and Hardness. My favorite NO3 is the Seachem. Salí feet is ok too
Great comparison, really makes you wonder who test is most accurate. Also makes you wonder if some test kit companies have a curve designed it knowing that doing water changes means buying more products needed when changing water. What company sells other products used during water changes? I use the API but recently ordered the Salafert after your video on that product. I usually do a 30% water change when Nitrates get to 60 ppm or higher. Usually it’s 7 to 10 days. I also do a gravel vac every other time. I do have a planted tank which needs according to Aquarium Coop at least 30 to 40 ppm for healthy plants. Great video Ben always get great and interesting info from you. Also back a few months ago you talked about retirement and maybe moving any updates. I’ve been retired 7 years now was fortunate to do it at age 53. ( good choices when I was younger I guess) l love every min of it. Thanks Paul in Kentucky
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There's a "conspiracy theory" rolling around in my head. Maybe growing up in the 60's I'm overly suspicious of corp motives. High nitrate results will send fish keepers on a buying binge that puts more money in the pockets of companies like API.
I'm "semi" retired at the moment (I need to keep working some - bad choices, crashed real estate market/Nasdeq at worse time, etc) but I've scaled way back and moving to the outskirts of Nashville is getting close! I'll have two daughters and a son-in-law that will be there and hopefully give us some grandkids while I can still pick them up, LOL).
Too much obsession over chasing numbers, I used to test my water all the time trying to get my nitrates down to very low levels, adding more filtration, bigger water changes, ect. But now I barely test at all, my fish are healthy, eating, and not dying so why change anything.
Legalize Arowana Excellent point.
Great topic Ben, very provocative and very concerning. As a physician/scientist I have some insights that have already been suggested. Wearing my clinical hat I have to say that after I see a lab value I look at the patient and ask myself "do these findings make sense?" Is my patient really that sick or is my lab result errant. When I put my scientist hat on I am always concerned that there are no positive or negative controls included ie distilled water and known colorimetric samples demonstrating the gold standard for each range of values. A spectrophotometric reading would be the best way of determining color differences, but not practical. I agree with your statement and do a physical assessment of the fish then I use one test kit consistently. As always, thanks for being the vanguard of our hobby with your probing questions.
Great comment and insight. I really need to look at it from different angles and use these test results as a sort of bird dog that gets me to look deeper into an area or tweak some part of my routine. Thank you!
It’s nice to hear someone also having the same double edge sword with water changes as me. Do a big water change to keep the quality high and for a few days my fish would flash. I’ve cut back on the percentage as well but I added pothos to the back of my tanks to help with the nitrates from building up. Seems to be working so far 👍
I'm thinking of adding some to the sump. Good idea.
Ben Ochart yeah I’ve got some in the sump as well. Still grows so it’s worth a shot:) would love to hear an update about your experience with it if you do.
Ben, can I suggest that you do a follow-up video and conduct the exact same tests using RO/DI water. Test it with a TDS pen to confirm that the reading is zero and if so any test should give a nitrate reading of 0. I wonder if any of them will? If the test shows any level of nitrate at all the kit must be faulty.
Funny you did that I was going to check same thing myself with my test kits. The only thing I do is I take it right out of tank and don’t put it in anything fill tubes right next to tank on tray table just in case there any residue in glasses and my wife would be like we drink out of those 🤣. Very interesting results API doesn’t look too good other tests where closer
Todd Diedrich I poured into the big glass container for the video. Normally I do tests like you, straight to the tube. Thanks for watching Todd.
I would never change more than 50% of the water in a fish tank, or the fish might get stressed. It’s better to change less water more frequently, like 50% once a week.
I've done numerous large WCs (80%) over the years without issues. I am careful with conditioner dosing and temp matching when refilling the tank.
With increasing fish size and number of fish, more frequent water changes or around 50% might be what I'll end up doing. 20% once a week was just not enough.
All of them have indicated that you need to perform a water change.
At one point around Two years ago I had Nitrate Reading that high, however that was only due to me changing the water chemistry but I sorted it, and now I have 0 Nitrate.
The good thing is that African Cichlids are Hardy Fish and you can bring that Nitrate Down.
It is also common for most African Cichlids to have Nitrate even that High.
But it is possible to rectify that and never have to see that reading again.
Anyway, as always, great video Sir.
Have a nice evening and a great weekend when it comes my friend.
Hello UFS! Good points. I'm on to a strategy to bring things back in range. The tests were a good "wake up call" and I'm glad that I saw the direction things were going in.
@@BenOchart Hi Ben.
I'm glad to hear that you are acting on it.
I hope you get it sorted fast and effectively.
Much support to you good Sir.
Take care.
Good afternoon sir! I have a 29gal Live planted tank with 5 common Mollies, 4 Cories,2 Otocinclus Affinis , 1 snail...I use API Master Freshwater kit and API 5in1 test strips , and Tetra strips and they ALL 3 read different. Almost 40ppm different! None of them are accurate from my experience. Hence why I perform 2ce weekly WC(water changes) . One of my Mollies is about to give birth. I only check water parameters biweekly UNLESS my school starts really acting different or starts breathing heavily. So far all have been doing as close to perfect as possible for 4 months now , so I dont want to change something when nothing is broken so to speak. Lol I always go with my gut when it comes to parameters. My API Master kit Nitrites are always high even an hour after a 30% water change . So I have almost given up on these lame test kits. Lol. Thanks for this video bc I was starting to think it was just me. Lol You now have another subscriber!
Amazing how many of us fish keepers have had similar experiences and come to similar conclusions. Thanks for the sub😀👍🏻
Hiya Ben,love your channel and love seeing your beautiful cichlid tanks. I am no expert but, imho we as aquarium hobbyists fret over established tank parameters way too much. Looking at your tanks, your fish look healthy and are thriving. I believe that we change water for a couple of reasons. Dilution is the most important reason. Let’s reason that our fish are living in a closed environment and need fresh water like we need fresh air to breath. Think about how we feel when we are forced breath stale or polluted air. I am not suggesting that we don’t test our tank parameters to determine whether to change water, but rather use that test result to make informed decisions on maintaining good quality, and use it as a periodical gauge to balance the environment our aquatic pets live in. As far as the accuracy of those test kits, I agree with you, Ben, let’s find one basic kit and use the results as a guide to establish a base that is consistent and attainable for us hobbyists.
Great comment and points. That's where I'm at. I consider these tests bird dogs pointing to where I should take a look, but not gospel and absolute truth that alarms me. There are many factors to consider, such as color and activity and also the impact of messing to much with our tanks chasing something like zero nitrates and the stress that puts on our fish. Thanks.
Hello Ben.. a little tip I picked up..when you do a big water change ,50+% . When putting fresh water back in do it at a slow trickle, fill the tank back up nice and slow you shouldn't get any flashing or stress ya fish out.
After about 24 years in the hobby, I find It's courses for horses, really. Some tap water can be "high" in nitrates. What does someone do, then? Not keep fish at all?
I used to obsess over testing, and no matter what I did, I very rarely got the result I was after, and if I did it didn't last long.
Once you get to know certain species of fish, or your own fish, they become the best gauge. If you're doing a weekly X% water change, cleaning your filter whenever it's required, and everyone one is happy and healthy then don't fix what isn't broken.
Chances are, that by panicking over test results, you're going to start over compensating, which will inevitably end up being more of a shock to the bio fauna (causing more problems), and also creating a consistently less stable environment for the fish.
Chasing results on one test, can screw up the balance of another.
Well said.
I totally agree don’t chase numbers it will drive you nuts. Do your maintenance and give them consistent water parameters. I test my planted tank more but gauge looking of plants also. I used to have corals in my reef tank I was always chasing numbers testing constantly was always dosing Somthing never could dial it in but that was a long time ago I think it did more damage than good especially what we know now. Where was bulk reef supply 20 years ago
You couldn't have said it any better.. You are soool on point.. ive. been in the hobby for 5 years now. In the past I would forever test and worry about water quality.. Since 1 year ago I got rid if all my small tanks and got one 90 gal and one 125 gal. Sometimes size does matter.. lol. Bigger tanks are sooo much easier.. Once they got cycled I've learned to.leave them along. Now I always watch my fish behavior along with water changes... not to mention I filled it up with plants. I haven't lost one single first in over a year.. Even my angle fish had over 15 fry in my 125 and they are thieving really well. We have to live!!! and let "live" ..
Tim Fowler totally agree with bigger fish tanks I have 7 tanks my biggest tank is 135 gallon salt water fish only my others are all fresh water 20,30,37,55,60,75 gallons all different set ups and all different maintenance
I actually test my tap water periodically as I live in a farming community and have a well. It has always tested nicely but I feel better going into my water changes.
I do 40 to 50% on my 125 and I have 13 haps in it. I use API master test kit and the tetra strips. I use it as a gauge and whether or no it is accurate it does keep me consistent at 40 to 60 on the high and 20 or so after the water change. I don’t get build up from that type of change.
Did a water change and one of my older cichilds die, bummer he was a cool fish. Following you channel for future tips.
That's a bummer man.. what percentage of water change method did you use?
Sorry to hear that. Did you figure out what happened?
Ben Ochart I did to much on the water change should have taken them out the tank first and treated the water rapidly.
I keep my tank at 5-10ppm. That’s doing a 50% water change every 4 days. It’s a lot of work (90 gallon) but I enjoy knowing my fish are in healthy water.
Hey, if it's working and the fish and you are happy, then "carry on" is what I say.
Ben,
Another good video. Here's my .02 and everything I say is worth exactly what you paid for it, you know, the usual. I have been keeping fish since Noah exited the ark and API has always been the standard in the hobby, which simply means it was the cheapest and most available, and nothing more. I also know your filtration on each of your tanks like I know my own. If you are doing water changes weekly I can't see it being possible that your Nitrates are 80 ppm, unless you are grossly over feeding and I mean using a shovel. I myself would never trust any test that reports levels on 2 such critical levels as these and I also have never trusted the test strips either. However my use of them was back when they first come out. I did see some issues with your method, take this anyway you want. I always take my water sample directly from the tank with a clean syringe. When you took water into the large glass bowl and then divided this into 4 glasses. By doing this you just greatly increased the variables and each variable is a reason for results to differ. Maybe one glass or 3 glasses had some soap residue, or any type of residue that might increase the results? I'm not saying your a pig, lol!!!! I'm simply stating for the most accurate and stable results you must reduce these variables anytime you can and you can do this very easily with a small method change of getting the water to the vial. You can buy large syringes that will withdraw 100ml of water at a time and even more to speed up the process. I have a rack that holds about 50 vials, one row for each tank, one column for each level being tested. Currently tank numbers are at 5 and when the 220 is finally up it will be 6. I have a syringe for each tank and they are marked clearly because I'm old as dirt. Everything is very well cleaned and dried after each test to insure there is nothing left behind to affect my results. Because I'm an hour from any fish store, and a poor one at that, I'm not keeping African's these days as I did for 20 plus years. Now I'm enjoying Rainbows and other Community Fish in heavy planted tanks with sand substrate and all are heavily filtered by large canisters mainly FX 4, 5 and a couple 6's and a few large SunSun's. Over filtered by many, but not by me, water changes are done every 10 days to 2 weeks. The extended time I believe is due to quality well water. I have lived with all types of city water, small town water, shallow and deep well water. These were listed from worst to best in my opinion and with my experience. This new home is on a very deep Artesian well = an underground lake, surrounded by granite. It's the best tasting water that I've ever tasted and makes the best sweet tea you ever stuck your tongue in, lol!!!! I've lived all across this country and not far from where you are now back in the 80's. I don't remember the 80's much so it must have been a great time, lol!!!! I have kept fish at each of the locations mentioned and my results have never been better than they have been the last 25 years on this deep water source. I love it and so do my fish and when you have done as many water changes as I have you notice changes along the way. I feed all my tanks quality frozen foods in the morning and high quality pellet at night. They all get a varied diet and plenty of food. Tanks are stocked from medium to medium/heavy in the 75 gal Rainbow tank. Honest to God truth Ben, my Nitrates are never above 20 to 30 in any of my tanks and Ammonia and Nitrite are always zero. Anything above 20 is rare and there is usually a known reason for it. PH in all tanks is kept in the high 7's with Argonite in the filters. Raw water PH at this new place is a bit lower than the last at 7.2. Water tests are just one factor, an important one, but the way the fish look, the way they eat, how and where they are hanging out and so many more all go into whether or not I consider a tank to be fully cycled and doing well. Water testing is the biggest factor in determining the need of changes as I'm sure they are for most fish keepers who have been doing it awhile and actually understand the biology of the tank. I didn't mean to type another novel but you know me, lol!!!! I wish I could send you a few hundred gallons of my water each week, because I would do just that. You only have one choice and get out of SOCAL and come out to the country where life moves at a slower place, we still care about our neighbors and our tropical fish are the happiest in the USA. You would never want to go back to the traffic and smog of SOCAL and who knows whats really in that tap water? Take Care My Friend and Be Safe. Keep up the great work. Later
Great and timely comment. Timely because my wife and I are planning to retire, for a variety of reasons, to somewhere outside of Nashville. I hope I end up with a water source like yours and have some of that great sweet tea you mention!
Observing fish behaviour, appetite and poop/bowel movement (like a dog) is the best way to measure your water quality and parameters are suitable for your fish.
I use test strips all the time BUT what I do is, I test my tanks with the Master Kit, then with a strip. I then take a picture of the strip and use at as reference, so I can do quick monitoring if needed/wanted. That being said Api strips versus the Master kit results, the Nitrate readings color always reads much darker than what the master kit indicates. The other readings are much more accurate, perhaps it has something to do with the specific test and it not being well suited for test strips? If that makes any sense. Lol.
Stay at Home Cichlid Mom it does make sense, thanks!
Looking at the colours as it were it seems that most tests use the same chemicals so i would expect the colours to be similar, fresher kits may well measure lower. The saving grace being that nitrates don't become remotely toxic until much higher levels. Just as a thought what media are you using in the canister as it would seem to suggest that there isn't any anaerobic action occuring in the system at all.
Ben my experience has been API runs very high and is very hard to read. I sent a sample to our ag ext. and my 40-80 (red or red) API result was actually 10 ppm nitrate by lab test. The tetra strips are closer than API. I have not tried the others but my bet your latest (Salifert) is the lowest and best one!
I agree with you on all points. I'm gonna talk about it during my 2/15/20 live stream.
This just makes me want to go with test strips; if none of them are accurate then might as well stick with the one that’s easiest to use. swish and 1 minute, done, so convenient!
Totally give that second bottle a good shake, I even knock the bottom on the table. The API website says the solution separates in the bottle. Interesting video to see how to do all these tests and getting the results. I use the Sera 'quick test' strips and think they are good. I've always been told that you should keep Nitrates below 40ppm or if you have delicate fishes then below 20ppm.
Sera seems to be the real deal. Their food products are backed by a lot of research. I might look into their test strips. I didn't know they made them.
@@BenOchart I've not tried their fish food, I should look into that too.
I use the NT labs kits and the API test strips. Never once seen the nitrates above 2.5ppm and they usually read zero on my 55 gallon South American cichlid tank with 20 odd fish.
I do have an FX6 on there with 5kg of biohome inside it. Never had a problem with water quality or nitrate,nitrite or ammonia problem since I had to move it all over from my 120 when it leaked.
Key Mac Funny, my Lowest nitrate (and most stable) tank is my 60gal with a load of biohome ultimate in two SunSun 302s 🤔🤔🤔
@@BenOchart I originally had 2 fluval 307s full of it for my 120 then upgraded to the FX6, then the tank leaked and I got a brand new 55 and threw the FX6 on that and it's sweet as a nut and has been for 3 months.
I use biohome ultimate,filter floss and a cheap alternative to fluvals clearmax in a mesh bag which is pondgrade and lasts way longer. 👍
Just did my water test 2 days ago my tap water is PH 6.4 nitrites 0ppm my ammonia 0ppm my nitrates are also 0ppm now for my water test on my 1 year established tank using the API master test kit was as follows PH. 6.2 Ammonia was 0-0.25 nitrite was 0 and my nitrate was between 40ppm-80pmm so I did a 40% water change and I will be checking tonight
I admit that I don’t test as much as I should do. The problem is that my colour vision isn’t the best anymore and I struggle with trying to decipher the difference between what I’m seeing in the test tube against the colour charts. The biggest problem I have is with the API master test kit. Because as you demonstrated, The colours between the second and third from bottom so similar, I really struggle to tell the difference between them and it’s a massive gap between the two readings so in the end I kind of gave up with it and I’ve now just stick to my normal routine that I have with my water changes. The test strips are slightly easier but even then I still struggle even with a fairly decent light. The other disappointment that I have is that especially in the case of the API master kit is that it’s expensive and I kind of expected it to be slightly better quality because everybody seems to praise it so highly that I thought it would be worth the $40 that I paid for it.
Yes, I too, and many that have commented, have difficulty with reading the results. Someone suggested looking through the tube slightly off the white section of the chart in good light. Still the nitrate result is hard to decipher.
Ben Ochart Thank you! 🙂 I will definitely try your suggestion as I feel guilty for not doing as often as I should and obviously, it’s the worry that I could run be running into preventable problems without realising.
I used API and it always read high. I used a spectrometer device I used and it showed lower. I could always bring it by, if you want to check that as well. 🤣
I also think there's a way to test to see what's really accurate... Involves distilled water and dry ferts
Aquarium Thoughts Where are you?
@@BenOchart Orange County
Ben I have the API master test kit and I have API test strips. Being the same brand they still show very different readings. I don't think any of these hobbyist kits are accurate. Best to just choose one and stick with it.
I just tried my TDS meter on my Koi pond and it was 40 ppm higher than my tap water. The API test say it is about double that. Using the TDS meter for nitrates from now on. Thanks AquaMalik for the idea.
Great topic. Maybe use only the API freshwater kit since it gave the most alarming results? Error on the side of caution? I know Cory uses easy strips simply because of the number of tanks he runs but his tanks are on auto water changes too. Have you asked your primary fish store what they use? Water testing kits have always frustrated me because of the wide range of results, too.
glen moss I think my LFS use the same kits. I might stick with strips, like Cory, for a “feel” off what’s going on.
Excellent video Ben. Personally I don't think nitrate are anything to worry about within reasonable levels. Honestly any test kit will achieve a level of accuracy that is more than adequate. The reason I say this is I don't think nitrates are as big a deal as we are led to believe. Yes nitrates can be harmful but it would have to be an absolutely ridiculous amount. Well above what any aquarium should be or any kit would test for. How many times have we seen a tank with "old tank syndrome" and the fish look fine? Granted the tank likely looks terrible and nobody wants a stagnant pond in their living room so its a good idea to use nitrate test as a indicator of when to change water and how much water to change. If I wanted to maintain a level of 20ppm and my test read 40ppm I would change out 50% of the water. Just my opinion.
I’m agreeing with. Have you heard anything about high Nitrates crashing pH?
@@BenOchart Yes I have but there seems to be limited "proof" of it actually happening. As in when researching I find it difficult to find actual studies about it. Usually just someone's opinion on it. I tend to think that high nitrates along with other factors probably contribute to a dropping ph over extended periods of time. That said I don't think it should ever be an issue in a tank that receives any maintenance at all. Even someone that does water changes very infrequently is still replacing water enough that I would not think they would ever see a ph crash. This is considering that the ph level of the tap is higher than the tank. Again though if we base our water changes on test results we would know that the ph is dropping well before it became an issue and be able to correct it. Just my thoughts though.
Ben, thank you for this honest video. I am assuming that you tested the water right before your typical water change? Just wondering, as this would make these tests more stressful if it was mid-week between changes or directly after a big change. I have a plan to test the local lake near my house for nitrate levels during different times of the spring, summer and fall seasons, just to get an idea of what natural nitrate levels in larger bodies of water may be at. I also intend to check my own water for nitrate levels at different times of the year. I am on a well, and I already know my PH levels rock up and down significantly depending on the season. And, P.S. I stopped testing my water after years of anxiety about it. LOL! I just do my maintenance, water changes and check on the general health/behavior/color of my fish. The amount of water that I take out, just depends on how I feel everybody is doing. I know that sounds sketchy, but my gut(intuition) usually is very trustworthy. However, water changes are never less than 20%. I also use an insane amount of aquatic and terrestrial plants (immersed and submerged) in my 11 tanks, and try not to stock the fish too heavily. I also tend to over-filter in tanks with my larger fish (oscars, ropefish, 16+ inch common pleco). Though I do currently have four full grown common goldfish in a 75 gallon that needs 50% water changes weekly, as they wait for me to set up the 125gallon that I have in the basement. I know that sounds sketchy, but my gut(intuition) usually is very accurate. Again, thank you for this video.
We really have go with our gut and that was part of my conflict. My gut and my eyes were telling me “Fish look great” but the test results were saying “DANGER! DANGER!”
Gabrielle Hunter. Thanks for the info. I just started a planted tank last Sunday and the Nitrates with api master kit were around 80 to 160. So i tested my well water (next to cornfields) it tested that high as well from the tap. Ph bottomed out. I have been panicked. That is without fish. The plants look good. So what does one do. Cant buy water every time i need to do a change?
@@rondathomas330 Hi Ronda. First of all! How exciting! I love a newly planted tank! How were your ammonia and nitrite levels? Have you tested those? I just did a quick search on nitrates in wells from corn fields! OH MY! I am really glad I don't live near one...Hopefully, once you get a nitrogen cycle established in your tank (if you haven't already) then some of the excess "nutrients' will be broken down. And of course the plants help a great deal. What size is your tank? And...What fish are you planning on for your tank? I promise, no judgement. Just curious and with the intention to help. Less stocking is always good at first...but...Maybe be very conscientious about minimal stocking in the beginning, just to see how an extra bio-load affects the numbers? And you may already know all of this! That whole preaching to the choir situation that we fish-folk find ourselves in so often. Good luck. And I hope you are already getting joy out of your aquarium.
@@gabriellehunter6545 thank you for the feedback. I'm at the end of week 2 for cycling. I have a 65 tall. Flora Max substrate. Dragon rock and driftwood. I planted Monte Carlo on a mat, several Anubias to rock and driftwood, 2 medium swords, java fern on a mat, 3 tall Sagittarius, 6 bunches of pennywort, and to help with nitrates have a pothos. I did a water change using 15 gallons of purchased filtered water and 10 gallons ro water. Added seachem stability. Nitrates still tested at about 80ppm. The plants look healthy growing new leaves, pothos roots growing, no fish yet. I want to get fish that meet my parameters so I'm not always chasing the water to meet the fish. Hopeful for South and central American types. My most recent parameters this morning are ph-6.4, ammonia-.25, nitrite-0, nitrate- around 80. Tap water is 80-160.
Wonder where you get a guaranteed level on nitrate level of the test water. Like a commercial aquarium or something???. Then run tests. Just a thought
I plan on getting the Hanna Instruments High Range Nitrate Checker HI782. I believe that would be more accurate than these other test kits.
For me the test kit just give you some reference to go by. when i use the API i place the test tube at my window i can see the colors better with the natural light.
That's a good tip. The Salifert test suggest viewing the results in diffused sunlight.
I have a well planted tank, so I don't vacuum like I should because I do not want to disturb roots.
I take about 25-30% of the water out and replace with parameter matched water.
I usually end up with a Nitrate reading around 25ppm for the first few days. I have to do more frequent water changes, but the fish look great.
Ben I been thinking about this. I"m not sure be I would try testing distilled water I think it should read 0. If that is the case then you can test the test kits. Then use the kit that is correct. My problem is with the kits.
I agree. The comments under this video are pretty eye opening.
Ben, are you mixing in water conditioners and buffers when you do the water changes in your tank? I use a 55 gallon drum and mix in the drum before my water change and i see less flashing (if any). It might be the mix hasnt dissolved yet not the nitrates. I do 50% water change in my 90 gallon peacock tank weekly.
That is the right way for water change the way you do.
I use a hose system, from tap to tank, and mix the conditioner (Safe) in a measuring cup and add to the tank as the tank is filling up. Seems to work okay. Interestingly, after these tests I did a very large water change on both the 150 and the 100 and saw no flashing. I don't mix the liquid Prime conditioners. I just add those, a cap-full at time, in the recommended dose amounts.
I have been considering getting a ciclid tank . It seems to be a huge pain in the ass with non stop complications . Even the equipment to maintain them seems to be suspect . I will pass . Thanks for the warning .
I do my weekly water changes with once in a while going to 10 days but always do around 40-50 percent on my tanks and at times on some a little more. I over filtrate all my tanks and my Nitrates are always between 0-20 on all my tanks.
Had same problem with API/JBL (German) test kits, now let the fish tell me, I have reduced number and volume of water changes and all is well even in the discus tanks.
forgot to say the plants, especially algae are great indicatersof the state of the water.
How many days since the last water change on that tank? If it was yesterday, you need to do bigger waterchanges. If it was a week ago, you're fine.
I think I have the seachem... I think I'll use it this weekend. Good comparison.
Every week I do a WC. I'm gonna increase the % of water and feed less, that should handle it. I'll post a follow-up video.
Hi, Ben! Test your water source (tap). Here in Englewood, Colorado (just south of Denver) the tap water measures as high as 80ppm using an API Master Test Kit. It would be good to know your baseline measurement.
Good tip, thanks!
If you live in SoCal I believe you are receiving water from the same source as I. I live in Vegas. We do have 5ppm nitrate, hard water with a very good PH for these fish. It’s over 8. I find myself adding PH down to my swimming pool , however I do nothing for my aquariums to adjust the PH.
Nitrate Test Kits are notoriously 'all over the map'. - I think: See the videos posted by Kevin Novak (Mostly in 2018) on his TH-cam Channel.
I quit worrying with testing water years ago. If you are an experienced fish keeper, you know what to watch for and what to do.
I think the tests can flag something for you. If I had continues with small weekly water changes and heavily stocked tanks and not checked the nitrates I might have had a pH crash (nitrates being acidic, nitric acid). It was a slow creep, up and up. I think I'm gonna do a few big water changes and feed a bit less for a while, and not worry since "worry" never solves anything. Thanks for watching!
@@BenOchart Well, one reason for me is my self imposed recovery program from when I was in the depths of my aquarium addiction. Having over 30 tanks I was driving myself crazy worrying about water parameters. That was years ago however, before I had the internet and could learn from folks like you. I'm down to one 50 g and a couple of 5 g tanks, all Walstead community tanks. They've been up and running about 6 months and I've only done one water change. I have to resist the urge to do water changes and buy test kits however, lol. It's an experimental thing for me, seeing if it works. Everything is going great, though I do worry about becoming a fish murderer. Love your cichlids tanks by the way, cichlids were what drove my addiction.
I recently brought the API paper strips and compared them to the API master kit.
ResultsAPI Paper strips about 10 ppm and API liquid test under 40 ppm. Nitrates.
That is a big gap...I don't trust the master kit test anymore.
Ben, I live in a small town in Nebraska. Our town uses well water with nothing added to it, I know this because the guy in charge if our well lives a couple house down form me. I use the API test kit for my 40 & 60 gallon tanks, the 60 has 7 small african cichlids in it. API Nitrate test was reading 80 to 100 ppm, which worried me. I do a 30% water change weekly, still reads high after the water change. I tested the water straight out of tap and was reading the same high nitrate results. My friend who watches the water quality in town assures me our well water is 8 ppm in nitrates out of our well verified by the state of Nebraska. Needless to say I do not trust the API nitrate test kit.
P.S It's a new kit I just bought last month. Thanks.
The general consensus seems to be that the API nitrate test runs very high. API is going to lose customers if they don't fix it. If all they are providing is a ballpark, I'll ballpark with strips and save both time and money.
I would check water out of the tap with all kits then check before and after water change. I would try to see which test kit is the most accurate.
all the kits should read the same out of the tap.After you determine which test kit to trust then I would address your tank water.You need a base line to start with, right now you have no constant to test against.
Michael Del Corsano Good point! 🙏
@@BenOchart did you ever happen to get a baseline? I might need to do that with my tanks so I know what my true value is.
30 years ago the Salifert test kits were used by serious salt water fish keepers. I think the red sea test kit may be good as well. The strip tests are known to be inaccurate. Looks like you have 35-40 ppm nitrates. Looks like the API nitrate kit isn't accurate. 40ppm is too high for many fresh water fish. Many south african chiclids should do ok in that, they produce a lot of waste. There are some south american chiclids that are delicate though. For the health and longevity of your south african chiclids try to keep the nitrates from 35-40. For other readers on here for most fresh water fish you should only allow the nitrates to go up to about 20ppm. Water changes get rid of other stuff that we don't even test for so keep that in mind as well. Fish won't stay healthy living in toilet water!!!
On the API test kit I was told by customer service rep to hold a test tube approximately a quarter an inch away from the white background doing so gives you a lower number probably around 40 which would put it in the same range as your other test kits not sure if it's correct but that's what how I use it.
I like that tip 😀👍🏻
I change as little as my tank will let me. I've recently changed my temperature to accommodate GBRs. Now suddenly my pH is a little higher and a little more hard. I was already flirting with too high pH for rams... Water is already a touch yellow from driftwood. Not so sure about peat or anything else. I am starting to consider catching rain water as it may be a better replacement than tap. Any thoughts? My tap is soft on GH super hard on KH. I think I can sell alkaline water out of my tap, lol.
I agree with our lab worker here. It’s just a screening tool. Even the new app ones. Why not do a wc if you get constant high nitrate levels.
Yes, larger WCs and feeding less is the strategy.
Ben Ochart haha
My nitrate tests are always slightly lower using Tetra Test strips as compared to API. I think Salifert is likely most accurate. I still stick with 25% pwc but I replace floss and rinse sponges in canister every pwc, this really helps! I wonder if Bio media is getting clogged which would lead to rise in nitrates. As it ages it does clog even with rinsing. I'm slowly switching to another media which claims not to clog, Sera Siporex.
Sera seems to put a lot of research into their product line.
But how do you know this is not the one giving false readings.
Going thru this right now and it sucks. Tank looks “floating in air” minimal detritus,eating well, done 50,50 and 40% w/c . API TESTING 100ppm down to 80pp now holding at 40 ppm. Gonna take a day off then maybe 30% W/C. Funny I remember having tanks in the 1980’s and never even tested tanks,just normal maintenance, and no issues. So make your own conclusions. I’ll still do the W/C and quit stressing,takes the joy out of the hobby😊
More technology can add unnecessary complexity. Simple is always better in my mind.
Great video. Just one comment. The API test measures nitrate by "chroma" of the color. All the other tests measures "intensity" or "darkness" of the color. I wish API would make that clear in their instructions. In other words its not how "dark" the color is, but rather its how yellow the color is. The API test will give a very dark orange color that is actually 40 ppm if you look only at its "chroma" but is 100 if you look at its "darkness".
Very interesting point David
I learned from this video: Use one of the kits if I don't feel like a water change, and use the other when I do?
🤣🤣🤣
TMI ahead. High nitrates in my 125 pothos molly tank, smells like urine when you have a urinary tract infection. Once you smell that nitrate smell, know it immediately next time and can take action.
Thank you, I think your canister filter needs cleaning every month as your fish are large and increase water change to 50% Your fish are beautiful,
Yes I just did this with my aquarium co op strips compare to my API freshwater master test kit. Co op said 50 nitrate and API said 180nitrate I panic and did a 50 percent water change. Although my fish seemed fine always my plants were yellowing so I was worried it might be a warning sign
I landed here because I also have trouble reading the API test nitrate level. My city water dept (Dickson TN) publishes an annual water quality report on its website. The latest one, for 2021, shows our water that year had a nitrate level that ranged over 0.20-0.38 ppm, so I would expect aquarium test kits to show 0 nitrates for my tap water (assuming no drastic changes over the past year). I have the API test kit, and the Aquarium coop test strips so tried them. The API test was light orange, looks to me about 5 ppm on its chart. The A. coop test comes out white, so 0 ppm. So by my test, the Acoop strips are more accurate than API, and much less fiddly to use.
I’ve been using the co-op strips and like them
i wonder what you get from lakes and rivers in your area compare to your aquarium?
Well I know that I started distrusting API when my pH test appeared to go off. So I thought well I'll buy a digital pH tester zip is calibrated at the factory and calibratable. I ended up with a pH tester that did a few things temperature, pH, TDS. And microsiemens. yeah a pretty good one that was the point to get a good one I was looking in the price range of 100 to $300.
API said my pH was way off but the digital one it was just fine. The fish weren't complaining.
Well now it's time for new test and between my pH experience and your video I think API is off the table. Happy Fish keeping I'm off to figure out what I'm going to use for testing now.
I stopped trusting API with nitrates. Perhaps it was off with pH as well. I might have to look into one of those digital devices.
Regardless of which test you used they all showed at or very near the top of their range. I'm not sure why you couldn't see that but it was very obvious to me. Water changes are fine but in the end you really need to get some anaerobic media in your filter system. Nitrate takes a long time to have visible effects on fish, but it does affect them. Mostly shows up in decreased breeding and also trouble birthing. Usually a well planted tank will do a good job of nitrate absorption but the roots need to be shallow to be able to do the best job. I have free floating plants and some that are 'rooted' at the top of the tank so their roots float free. That will go a long way to fixing the issue.
Unfortunately African Cichlids destroy plants. My algae scrubbers help but obviously not enough. I'm going back to basics (larger WCs and feeding less). Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
So I was curious because I have a few different API test kits and have 3 different 5mil lines on the test tubes when the tubes really look the same.. which they might be a different thickness and in general not same manufacture date or batch. But none of that really matters with what I found. So I got a few different syringes 2 from my work and 1 from hospital where my mom works and a medication shot glass. My discovery was this. All the syringes and med cup = the 5mil line in the med cup but always were roughly 1/16th-1/8th above the line in the test tubes. Also I dunno what your experience is when shaking the Nitrate test for a min,but in a 5mil scale you can lose quite a bit of water... so with all that said and I'm not a chemist or even close but I would imagine the water plays a pretty big role in the drop counts and test results 🤷♂️ just my thoughts and I know we use these as guidelines only but I thought I'd share what I saw.
Thanks for all you do good Sir I enjoy watching you
I skip the invert part for the api test lol. My tap water comes out 10/20ppm. Only time I've seen my water test lower than that is in my planted betta tank, which read 5ppm.
I wish i could keep live plants with these cichlids. I tried but they tore them up. I might put a pathos in the sump.
I think 80 to 90% is a lot that’s a huge water change maybe 50% and see what happens that’s still a lot of water. I’m like you I do small water changes I do about 4 to 5 gallons a day so over a weeks time I’m changing out about 25 gallons or slightly more I’ve never been able to get my nitrates under 35 Usually are between 35 and 40 and that’s with an API test kit
Romono Capprotti A gradual build up as the fish grow seems inevitable unless we increase maintenance.
Most dangerous are PH swings because it can cause stress and make the fish scratch, so never do too big water change at once.
Best in this case is 25% on one day and another 25 % on the following second day.
And then lower nitrates only by growing more anaerobic bacteria by adding 7 days the Seachem stability product as if it was a cycle in order to create a much bigger anaerobic colony to consume these nitrates, and then keep testing the nitrates every week or so to see the results which should happen within a few weeks afterwards.
I use only the API liquid test with the 2 bottles. It's the best.
Great video and comments. The test kits are very inaccurate. I have been on a mission to get the 0 or very low nitrate level the pond guru promotes. Sadly, I use my tap water to track change. I started tracking change before and after water change and was finding minimal change. I tested the tap and found out it contains about 15 ppm. After further research I read on city website that is the allowable level. So, I started using this as my baseline testing both my one South American cichlids tank and my tap each time. Finally got it to where before I did a water change my nitrates in my tank were equal or below amount in tap. After months of lowering nitrates I had a nasty outbreak of something in my tank. Killed all 4 bala sharks and had all 4 cichlids were in bad shape. 1 had face being ate off and 2 had fungus. One ended up with renal prolapse. All have white stringy poop. After testing using about every medicine I could get my hands on, some in quarantined, some in the tank, I had the biological filtration crash in quarantine. I put them all back in 125. They are still alive and appear to be healing. Just treating with general cure now. After all of this I have one giant question, do nitrates even matter??? I have never had fish disease like this before and my water was almost perfect....
That's the other side of chasing zero nitrates, using additives to adjust pH, using salt, etc. compared to just letting things move along. These actions (even medicating) stress the fish in some way. It sounds like you might have medicated so much that the beneficial bacteria finally collapsed. Hopefully you're over the worst of it. This hobby is a constant learning process and some of the lessons are painful (and expensive).
Ben Ochart my PH is on the high side, 8.4, but stays constant. South American cichlids prefer a lower PH unlike their African counterparts. Yes I did kill my beneficial bacteria with meds. It still makes me wonder if nitrates really bother the fish? Apparently it is acceptable for people to drink the haha
Hi Ben.
I think I have seen you been using Biohome media in some of your filters. Have you seen less nitrates after using Biohome or a similar product?
Interesting that the tank (60 gal) with Biohome ultimate is very stable and well under 40ppm
@@BenOchart Nice to hear. I hope i will get similar results on my 250L.
Ben, are you running Biohome Ultimate in your sump or canister? Have you ever had a complete nitrogen cycle? I've been running it in my canister for 8 months and still have nitrates. Also, are you still using the Santa Monica algae scrubber?
glen moss I’ve never run the amount of Biohome suggested for a full cycle. I will say that my lowest and most stable tank over time, my 60 gal, has Biohome in 2 canisters.
@@BenOchart I can understand that. Biohome isn't cheap and you have large tanks. I have it in my 30 gallon and for that amount of water it needed $100 worth of Biohome.
@@BenOchart Been struggling with the same nitrate problem. Using the API test kit for 20 years! Red flags went up after I tested my tap water(municipal water authority) for nitrates and result came back between 35 and 40ppm. Notified Authority and they told me my result was impossible. EPA requires all Municipal Authorities to maintain nitrates in tap water below 10 ppm AT ALL TIMES! MWA recommended I have my water tested by a professional water treatment company. I did and API test kit was off by a factor of 10! My tap water test result was 4 ppm and my tank water went from 80-100 ppm with API to an 8 ppm result from the professional service. I will conclude by saying that I had my other key water parameters tested ( PH, Ammonia and Nitrite) by the professional service and the results when compared to my API test results were very close. The problem must be testing for Nitrates. By the way I used a brand new API test Kit with re-agent expiration dates of 2023. My experience has all occurred in the last month. You can reach me at dennisnagle@aol.com.
Really enjoy your videos. Great job!
With the API Test Kit you don't hold it up against the Chart but keep it away about one Inch. Up against the Chart gives you a Shadow that makes it look darker. To me it looked to be about 40, not 80 to 100.
I tested my tank today and freaked out because the nitrates were high but I'd just changed my water and my filter got it checked by a different product but it still was more than I wanted. My fish are great though, swimming around and eating and my one female platy being cheeky and slapping the water because I'm taking forever to feed her.
If the fish look great don’t worry too much. Check your nitrates out of the tap. If you’re getting some there then you’re going to have to do big water changes, like 70-80% to make a difference.
@@BenOchart lol I just got a fun surprise today! One of my fish fried sometime during the night and I had to throw a nylon sock over my filter to keep the fry from being hurt by it. There's tons of places for them to hide too.
hey Ben have you ever checked your nitrates coming out of the tap water
Part of error in these kits is in our own eyes and interpretation. Although not there in person and seeing this through camera, video processing, Internet delivery and my own monitor... other colors seem very natural so, here is what I have seen: API 60, strips 80, Salifert 50, Seachem definitely more than 40, not much more but more, but measuring strip was obscured and it is a guess at "50". Much closer range but, as I said,it is in the eye of beholder and hopefully someone will make a more distinctive kit.
A "distinctive" kit would be a very good product. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Be afraid! Very afraid! The fishmob might say something.
What all had in common is a sign of higher values. Then what exact nr is not as important. I see all tests as idicators/signs. So waterchange or more fastergrowing plants :) which is real easy with ciclids.
Thanks for video.
I think if you keep any school of fish and feed them , the battle against nitrate is a hard one. I recently got rid of my gravel and went bare bottom in hopes of better nitrate reading.
I hear you, but some would say get more substrate because a deep substrate bed provides a home for anaerobic bacteria that reduces nitrates 🤔🤔🤔
Ben I’m going through this right now my API and my test strips Expiration date 2021 test strip readings 25ppm API 100 Ppm plus my Ammonia/ Nitrite levels very low my API bottles are at the very bottom I am wondering if the nitrate bottles are very concentrated at the bottom on the API test kit I have been doing 50% water change for the past month every week good luck Rob
It can send us in all directions, trying to correct things, stressing the fish with big water changes, when in the end it was a false reading. I think overall I'm to take these results as one indicator of many that need to be considered and take action accordingly (and hopefully not over stress my fish trying to correct what might not be that big an issue). I'm gonna talk about this more on Saturday during the the Live Stream.
I always feel dubious about using kits as I would probably go for the one that shows the lowest reading. How would I know that this is the one giving false results? I have kits now that are giving a colour that is not even on the chart.
I just experienced that. I attribute the odd color to expired or defective kits.
And how to measure nitrite when test solution 1 has brown color? I have thought that mine is bad, but your's also has same brown color.