If you put the bearing in your fridge freezer for a half hour the bearing will slip in without the need for the slide hammer. You can also use the same technique for the seal.
Thank you for the video. Between yours and one other one dealing with the c-clip I had a painless and quite quick axle and bearing change on my 2000 Ford Ranger.
I used your techniques today to remove my bearings and seals. I had a regular seal puller and used it. Those seals can be a real pain. I borrowed a bearing puller from O'Reilly's and along with a 5 pound slide hammer, they came right out. Using your technique, I was able to install the right axle bearing, but the left side required a bearing repair sleeve. I was not confident about it, but my parts guy explained that the repair sleeve is bearing/seal assembly that rides on a
Here is a good video on removing the axel. That video along with this one is exactly what you need for the whole job. Search for title "Replace rear axle seal on a Dodge Ram". It is a dodge ram but it will pretty much be the same for any rear wheel drive axle bearing replacement. These two videos together make a complete video to do what you need :)
by far one of the best videos I've seen your end death explanation has made it easy for me to change my seal and bearing I have a 2000 Ford Explorer 4 x 4 and the Rangers differential is not that far off I think they're basically the same thanks a lot
Good helpful video, but I question the pre-loading of the bearing with GREASE... won't the grease just melt and become a SLUDGY CONTAMINANT to the gear oil? Unlike the front axle bearings, those rear bearings are designed to run on the hypoid gear oil that runs down the axle tubes from the diff--that stuff is 90 (up to 140!) weight, with extreme pressure additives--why not just pre-lube with a shot 'o that?
I rented the polar with the slide hammer and it did not have that big washer to tighten it down I did see the nut but I didn't know what it was for. I was out there for 45 minutes for one side. I want some money back for the inconvenience. Oh great video as always
You have to remove the differential cover, remove the cross pin retaining bolt, remove the cross pin, remove the "C" clips / axle retainer clips, and the axles will slide out.
Great video. You answered all my questions. I rented the same tools but could not find any videos on you tube that explained how to use it on my particular trucks rear axle. Thank you and I just subscribed to your channel. I do all my own mechanic work on my 2000 chevy blazer. I'm always looking on here for info on how to do stuff.
I think most slide hammers have 5/8 threading so you could buy some rod and make your own puller if you didn't want to buy one off ebay (if you can't find local or is too expensive).
I accidentally drove a few miles with the emergency brake on until I noticed the burning leaking brake fluid smoking out of both tires. So I replaced everything in the drum brakes. today I noticed fluid seeping out of the driver side drum. it wasn't a leaking wheel cylinder but it comes from what looks like the bearing behind the wheel hub. Do need to replace just the bearing or is there any seals along that shaft elsewhere causing diff fluid to be leaking onto my drum brakes?
Hello. I have a Ford Explorer 1993. I need to change a shaft bearing rear. size 6.3 see you have a Ford.the bearing of the same size? and what size puller? if you can then in centimeters. thank you
Maybe this is a dumb question, but do you need to pack the rear bearing with grease? I didn't see you do that, but I really couldn't see it.....OK, should have waited until the end of the video I guess. Gear oil? Where would that come from?
I'm using the same bearing removal set (got it as a free rental from Autozone), but my seal is being a real bear. It probably doesn't help that it's been raining for 3 days, but I'm going to wait for daylight and dryness tomorrow. Heck, I may look at it again tonight ... from the video, it looks like I might be grabbing the bearing when I'm really just trying to get the seal. I would NOT purchase the seal removal tool (shown in the Haynes manual) ... it's really cheap and bends way too easy.
Old comment, but because someone might read it and want to know the same -- yes!! Make sure axle or shaft isn't bent, but yes. That is symptoms of a bad seal and bearing
Just a little FYI.... The large washer and nut is to keep the beveled puller from collapsing while you hammer so you don't break the bearing. Second, the bearing is uni-directional. It doesn't matter which way you put it in. (in this case) Thirdly, Don't use the puller to put it back in. It will distort the washer. There is no hammering pressure against the washer while pulling but hammering it back it with the small surface of the nut will concave the washer shortening its service life and possible damage to the nut and threads. There are plenty of cheap bearing installers/punches on the market. Lastly. It isn't recommended to put bearing grease on the bearing. Its chemical makeup prevents it from breaking down, coating the clutch system of the LS diff and cause it to malfunction. (Not the same issue with an open Diff where is doesn't matter) Simply coat the bearing with hypoid/limslip or what ever you're going to use to refill the diff with. (By virtue of its construction, the bearing has a raised lip that will hold the oil to the rollers for plenty of revolutions to allow the diff oil to reach it.)
Use that puller to get em both out in 1 shot- No need to pull the seal first Clean the Housing Thoroghly- Put new bearings in Freezer for 3 hours- They Go Right in
Everything looks good with the exception of the use of grease. One should actually use differential fluid for the bearings and not mix anything else with it other than manufacturer's recommended additive.
Seven years later, and still providing assistance. Well done!
If you put the bearing in your fridge freezer for a half hour the bearing will slip in without the need for the slide hammer. You can also use the same technique for the seal.
Thank you for the video. Between yours and one other one dealing with the c-clip I had a painless and quite quick axle and bearing change on my 2000 Ford Ranger.
I used your techniques today to remove my bearings and seals. I had a regular seal puller and used it. Those seals can be a real pain. I borrowed a bearing puller from O'Reilly's and along with a 5 pound slide hammer, they came right out. Using your technique, I was able to install the right axle bearing, but the left side required a bearing repair sleeve. I was not confident about it, but my parts guy explained that the repair sleeve is bearing/seal assembly that rides on a
Here is a good video on removing the axel. That video along with this one is exactly what you need for the whole job. Search for title "Replace rear axle seal on a Dodge Ram". It is a dodge ram but it will pretty much be the same for any rear wheel drive axle bearing replacement. These two videos together make a complete video to do what you need :)
Thank you for sharing this process with all of us.
by far one of the best videos I've seen your end death explanation has made it easy for me to change my seal and bearing I have a 2000 Ford Explorer 4 x 4 and the Rangers differential is not that far off I think they're basically the same thanks a lot
perfect vid, to the point, not a bunch of fluff which is typical of most how-to videos, thanks bud.
Great video, thanks for taking your time to share this
Nicely done. Helping out the DIY people
I'm so educated by this video. Thanks a million.
Thank you for making the video.
great video, this is exactly what i was looking for
Thanks you!!
different portion of the machined axle shaft. This saved me about $180.00 in a new axle. But everything else went well. Thanks again.
Beauty video, very clear and insightful. Thank you.
That was a great video! Thanks for uploading.
Good to hear, thanks for the comments!
Now I understand how it works - THANKS!
Yup, a pry bar worked for me, good luck!
Thank you, kind Canadian
Very nice, thanks for the help!
very great and smart work
Great tutorial thanks a million!!!!
just what I needed.
Helpful video. Thank you.
Great video.
thank you for the video
Thank you for the info
great job!!!!!
good job!
very good looks easy enough
good video smart man
Good helpful video, but I question the pre-loading of the bearing with GREASE... won't the grease just melt and become a SLUDGY CONTAMINANT to the gear oil? Unlike the front axle bearings, those rear bearings are designed to run on the hypoid gear oil that runs down the axle tubes from the diff--that stuff is 90 (up to 140!) weight, with extreme pressure additives--why not just pre-lube with a shot 'o that?
Good video
thank you for the info :D
I rented the polar with the slide hammer and it did not have that big washer to tighten it down I did see the nut but I didn't know what it was for. I was out there for 45 minutes for one side. I want some money back for the inconvenience. Oh great video as always
very good job..
Man..i been doing it the hard way. I fickin love that tool !! Going to buy one today!!
Thanks for sharing btw!! Awesome job
You have to remove the differential cover, remove the cross pin retaining bolt, remove the cross pin, remove the "C" clips / axle retainer clips, and the axles will slide out.
That's a nice Space grease gun you got there , cute grease color too ..
Grease is the same color as the "bubble gum" flavored toothpaste my dentist uses.
Thanks!
There's nothing wrong with the way you used your slide hammer. I would have done it the exact same way.
Great video. You answered all my questions. I rented the same tools but could not find any videos on you tube that explained how to use it on my particular trucks rear axle. Thank you and I just subscribed to your channel. I do all my own mechanic work on my 2000 chevy blazer. I'm always looking on here for info on how to do stuff.
love mecanic videos
Freezer the bearing, easy install!
I installed mine this way but I've seen the seal installed the other way around on all the other videos.
the manufacturer recommend greasing the seal also.. add to spring side
6:42 lovely moment lol
@ragtop69camaro you forgot to mention that to get to the c clip he has to push the axel in after removing the cross pin.
What kind of gloves are those? They look very durable
Do you have any videos on how to remove this axle? Thanks!
I think most slide hammers have 5/8 threading so you could buy some rod and make your own puller if you didn't want to buy one off ebay (if you can't find local or is too expensive).
33.91 at tooltopia.com, made by gearwrench.
Where did you get the correct slide hammer... i went to harbor freight to get their axle bearing removal kit but it doesnt come with a slide hammer.
I accidentally drove a few miles with the emergency brake on until I noticed the burning leaking brake fluid smoking out of both tires. So I replaced everything in the drum brakes. today I noticed fluid seeping out of the driver side drum. it wasn't a leaking wheel cylinder but it comes from what looks like the bearing behind the wheel hub. Do need to replace just the bearing or is there any seals along that shaft elsewhere causing diff fluid to be leaking onto my drum brakes?
WHAT? you didnot watch the video at all asking a dumb question like that, He showed you the job,
Ok I'm looking at this video and i have a huge question, can i do this on my 98 Ford explorer? I heard that the ranger and explorer are similar
How did u get the twist lock nut out before you get to the bearing is the question?
could i use this bearing on my skateboard
How do you get the axel out O_o
The washer keeps the puller centered so it won't pop out when you try to pull the bearing.
Nice job, but I needed to see what was done to get to that point
AWWW, TAKE THE TIRE OFF ...THEN THE PULL OFF THE BRAKE DRUM,,VERY SIMPLE...
fixxer3467 i believe he means the process of taking off the differential shaft which doesnt come off by just taking off the wheel and brake drum
Chris Pacheco exactly, thank you
Wish you would have showed getting the hub in and out.
Thank you for the video, but I have a small question how I like to buy this machine and can you help me with the respect you very much.
what is the weight of the slide hammer you are using?
a bearing/seal driver would be the proper tool for maximum control during installation
is this the same for the mustang's ?
What size is this bearing?
It's an 8.8" Differential
Hello. I have a Ford Explorer 1993. I need to change a shaft bearing
rear. size 6.3 see you have a Ford.the bearing of the same size? and
what size puller? if you can then in centimeters. thank you
is there a way to do this without that special hammer ? I can get the special tool but not the hammer
I know it's late but if anyone else has the same question you can get the tool from some shops for a free rental with deposit
Chevy blazer 1998 and for ranger 2008 has the same rear axle?
help me because I don't know the size of the rear bearing of the 1998 ford ranger wl, I want to change it
Why go through the trouble to pry the axle seal out when you have a bearing snatching tool that can pull the bearing and seal out at the same time???
v.good
hello apology that price has a bearing ford ranger?
you don't show how to remove axel and the differential cover. This is only half a video
Maybe this is a dumb question, but do you need to pack the rear bearing with grease? I didn't see you do that, but I really couldn't see it.....OK, should have waited until the end of the video I guess. Gear oil? Where would that come from?
How size rear bearing for ford ranger wl 1998? From mlaysia😊
I like short videos
Where do I get a voice like that? Sounds like a radio host.
Sir, how do you know when to change the Axle Bearing? I hear no noise on my 98 Ranger.
No noise, no bearing.
were did you get that tool
That's what she said.
Chris Dideon -Thank you ladies and gentlemen. Don't forget to tip your waiter and waitress. I'm outta here! 😂
I'm using the same bearing removal set (got it as a free rental from Autozone), but my seal is being a real bear. It probably doesn't help that it's been raining for 3 days, but I'm going to wait for daylight and dryness tomorrow. Heck, I may look at it again tonight ... from the video, it looks like I might be grabbing the bearing when I'm really just trying to get the seal. I would NOT purchase the seal removal tool (shown in the Haynes manual) ... it's really cheap and bends way too easy.
It's a good video but a great video starts with taking the wheel off to putting it back on...
What is the tool called?
My right rear tire wobbles and is leaking grease. Would this solve the issue?
Old comment, but because someone might read it and want to know the same -- yes!! Make sure axle or shaft isn't bent, but yes. That is symptoms of a bad seal and bearing
What size ring gear are those bearings?
Joseph Fisher lmfao do you even know what you are talking about??
Nice vid but it frustrated me that u didn't list the bearing & seal part number
Just a little FYI.... The large washer and nut is to keep the beveled puller from collapsing while you hammer so you don't break the bearing. Second, the bearing is uni-directional. It doesn't matter which way you put it in. (in this case) Thirdly, Don't use the puller to put it back in. It will distort the washer. There is no hammering pressure against the washer while pulling but hammering it back it with the small surface of the nut will concave the washer shortening its service life and possible damage to the nut and threads. There are plenty of cheap bearing installers/punches on the market. Lastly. It isn't recommended to put bearing grease on the bearing. Its chemical makeup prevents it from breaking down, coating the clutch system of the LS diff and cause it to malfunction. (Not the same issue with an open Diff where is doesn't matter) Simply coat the bearing with hypoid/limslip or what ever you're going to use to refill the diff with. (By virtue of its construction, the bearing has a raised lip that will hold the oil to the rollers for plenty of revolutions to allow the diff oil to reach it.)
so same for front and rear?
depends if it's got front wheel drive you may need the whole hub assembly
Why use grease when there's going to be 80W-90 oil covering it? Just lube it with the same thing..
Use that puller to get em both out in 1 shot- No need to pull the seal first Clean the Housing Thoroghly- Put new bearings in Freezer for 3 hours- They Go Right in
Why did you change the bearing?
Ivan Man ummm because it was worn? Dumb ass
Explorer 4x4 -He probably meant how did he know to change it dumbass. 😒
The Lariat yes, thank you.
where you get the tool you rent o buy
Autozone
Même que ford ranger 2009?
7:00
GREAT FAITHFULNESS OF THE LORD JESUS ALMIGHTY
ford fijesta
Everything looks good with the exception of the use of grease. One should actually use differential fluid for the bearings and not mix anything else with it other than manufacturer's recommended additive.
6:58 is rather pornographic
You're rubber gloves are to large drop down a size big fella!