PROFESSIONAL Bike Tools! That Bike shops Don't have!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- This is a video about some of my bike tools. They are mainly industrial tools that I have adapted or use for bikes.
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Jesus. And here I thought my little allen key set and home made chain whip were the shit. That faro arm does look impressive.
Thanks for the feedback!
It looks impressive even when you're 3D scaning job shop ;)
The Faro arm is proof that you can always go deeper. Have all the commercial bike tools? Welcome to the industrial priced stuff. I googled it and it looks like they start at $20,000.
Just love the way you install equipment costing tens of thousands of dollars on a piece of chipboard mounted on sawhorses. So down to earth lol.
how expensive is all his gear?
If carlsberg made metrology benches :) awesome 👌 how to tell me you do best fit without telling me you do best fit alignment.
Ps hambini my fellow 5 year old. Chuck us a bb shell over so I can do some cylindricity roundness runout parallelism thickness deviation and profile measurement. Ideally with a correctly toleranced drawing. I could do a real world comparison of competition vs hambini if you have a good example of a bad bb
Cool, I have a set of Allen keys too
A fascinating insight into the bike workshop of a talented engineer! Thanks for doing this - a very enjoyable watch.
Thanks for the feedback. It is always welcomed.
DITTO! ..Nigel.
Thank you for taking the time to do these videos mate. I'm really enjoying them.👍
That skf tool is pretty cool/nerdy and that faro arm!
It’s remarkable even with custom internals that you have success with that lathe, Bravo!
The CMM is very handy, been using them for decades on motorcycle chassis.
Great utilization of space and nice assortment of tools!
Dropout hanger alignment tool totally essential if you like playing with old bikes- gears run soo much sweeter
That Faro arm is a nifty piece of kit. Hadn't seen one of them before.
An ultrasonic cleaner, even a chintzy import one, wouldn't be a bad addition. The bike's frame can be dirty, the drivechain cannot! It works much better, and possibly even easier, than those plastic chain-scrubber enclosures too.
swolebro A gallon milk bottle and some gasoline cleans chains really well too!
A DAG (derailleur alignment gauge) should definitely be in the first category. No amount of gear adjustment is effective until the hanger is straight. Sure you can live without it, if you don't mind your expensive bike shifting like a cheap big box bike.
You are next level brother! Must be so satisfying to build or fix stuff in your man cave.
"An engineer" in the UK can be the bloke that designs a nuclear power station or the bloke that fixes your boiler.
Or a garbage man, a sanitation engineer.
As someone who worked hard to get to a level were I was happy myself an engineer, its sad that the term has lost all its standing. The people that masquerade as engineer do the real ones a great disservice. I'm sure Hambini would have better words to use. The other delusions of grandeur that annoy are A) "project manager". Squillions have them on the business card but wouldn't know project from projectile. B) Executive - especially sales executive. They are a bloody shop assistant. I think its a side effect of the nanny state/political correctness and the desire that we shouldn't ever hurt anyone's feelings. bollox.
@@BooklessT My brother works in Silicon Valley since 1998. He showed me his business card that read "Vice-President" in sales, and I was super impressed, like he was the number two guy. Almost PRESIDENT. He said there were like 20 vice-presidents. Every salesman was a vice-president. Titles are worth very little, if you are accomplished and skilled at your job, you don't need a title. However, Engineer to me, isn't a title, but a term for person who went to college and got a specific degree in engineering. Like a lawyer who got a J.D. and took the bar, or doctor who went through all that schooling. My sister has a PHD in Political Science. So she too is a doctor. She would never use the term.
@@BooklessT ok boomer
@@tranzco1173 It's funny. I've been in some tech companies that really are on the cutting edge with some of the brightest minds in their field and a common approach is that engineers just picked their own job titles. Most would pick something utterly silly, so if someone handed you a business card reading "Samurai Pizza Cat" you'd probably look at a double PhD changing the world with a new algorithm he worked on for the last 10 years. And if you wanted something cool sounding you better had the chops to back it up. Andy Hertzfeld famously had the title "Software Wizard" - which he got away with by virtue of being the mastermind behind the original Macintosh's operating system.
A man and his tools. Great show.
You da man ! The entire kit for any would-be tech cyclist! But I must say that the onesie outfit makes it all flow together. Thumbs up
Dear Hambini,
I came across your channel the other day and I am now happily working my way through all of your videos and whilst I may not be the sharpest tool in the box, I have at least learned to hit my mute button prior to one of your videos starting.
Watching this video about all the different tools that you use for your work on bikes, both astounded and dismayed me. At this point, I should mention that I'm 65 years of age and stopped riding my last bike (Raleigh 10 speed!) on my 16th birthday when I purchased a moped (thank you Barbara bloody Castle) which of course I traded in for a 250cc motorbike as soon as I became 17.
Returning to your tool video, would it surprise you to know that when 'I were a lad', a newly purchased bike came with a tool-kit. This tool-kit consisted of two flat, hand-sized pieces of mild steel with various cut-outs that matched every nut and bolt on the bike, including the 'notched rings' that retained the bearings in what you would call 'the bottom bracket'? Other than a hammer to get the cotter-pins on the cranks out, you could dismantle the entire bike using these two simple tools. Life was less complicated back then... mind you, the (steel) bikes were bloody heavy and alloy frames, whilst not unknown were too expensive for most folk.
Here's a question for you (or your viewers) - what happened to centre-pull brakes? Half a century ago any half-decent bike was fitted with centre-pull brakes but I never see them now, even on top of the range bikes. Why did they go out of favour?
Anyway, thank you for your videos. It's always a pleasure to watch a good man (or in your case a good engineer) doing a grand job of work!
I haven't got a torque wrench but I'm good at making the clicking sound !!
Nice tool collection. I need to up my game...
Missed the princesses blanket
Since I bought a rear mech alignment tool, I'd put it in the "should have" category, I find it very useful to have
Yes, Especially if you're an aggressive trail rider or kids screw around in your garage! I own one but don't use it much. Probably because I ride singlespeeds the most.
I also wrench in a shop, we use them daily. Eyeballing the derailleur doesn't cut it when you're trying to rule out shifting issues.
Neal Murfitt An M10x1 axle will thread in. But theres several different threaded rear axle diameters and pitches. They all pretty much appear the same, but they're not. All will NOT FIT. Especially if the axle came from a cheap wheel
Good idea though!
Be careful though if you want to salvage your hanger!
If I used an axle to actually bend the hanger back I would screw locknuts up against both sides of the hanger so forces are not imparted in the threaded hole and hole or threads were possibly distorted.
Neal Murfitt Ive had the DAG tool so long, that idea never occurred to me.
The one thing to consider is that 11 and 12 speed drivetrains require a high degree of precision and often a visual reference isn't accurate enough. Often the way we look at things is not close to square and there's many variables or distractions visually.
Using a DAG tool, you reference 3 points to create a plane. As long as all three references are within .5 millimeters you're usually OK.
If you're handy and have access to some fabrication tools, RJ The Bike Guy has a video on how to make your own DAG tool. The DAG tool is the best way to rule out hanger misalignment when your diagnosing shifting problems. Its the1st thing I check. The next thing is B tension adjustment. The pulley being just a little too far from the pulley can make shifting pretty sluggish which causes mechanics to believe cable tension is incorrect when it may not actually be so.
Great insight to your collection of tech and tools, some great knowledge thanks for sharing interesting stuff. All the best
Fascinating. I particularly like the lathe but I would love it more if it had made me a BB90 Hambini bearing 👍🏻.
I can wait !
Excellent! Getting quality tools (e.g. Mitutoyu calipers) is excellent advice. Your set of gauges is fantastic, and that Faro arm is something I didn't even know existed, including that SKF tool. After using a lot of hand tools, I'd recommend few upgrades:
Wera Hex Keys. They lock in better, have tighter tolerances, don't round off the bolt sockets. Color coded, too.
NFS/Silca Race Grease
NFS/Silca chain lube -- Squirt will gum up your derailleur pulleys unless you clean them each time you lube the chain.
Efficient Velo Tools nylon hammer -- the dead blow is good for knocking out bearings, but EVT is best for delicate work.
Abbey Tools hanger alignment tool -- beautifully made and compact
P&K Lie truing stand -- crazy expensive but super-precise, super-rigid, and self-centers the wheel w/o dishing tool
BTW, Efficient Velo Tools makes the best bike tools, but are very expensive. The upside is they are precise, tough, and designed by people who use them to be, well, efficient.
Thanks for the comment Eric. I like the idea of that truing stand. If I don't make one I might go after that. A few people have asked me if I can make them a truing stand, I might actually design one.
Not into Wera Allen L keys, they are overpriced and there are few scenarios when an Allen head socket on a ratchet or a p-handle wrench wasn’t more useful/faster in a given situation. L-keys give poor control and grip leading to stripped bolt heads.
Aaron Garcia I wrench in a shop. A three way hex wrench and a set of L Allen keys are our most used tools. Ive used the same ones for 5 years and they're not fancy ones. I very rarely round out a bolt head. Probably because I know how to turn a wrench!
Sockets and ratchets are used maybe 10% of the time.
When the sales guys 'borrow' my hex wrenches, work stops and I have to go yell and bitch about returning tools!
Brilliant. Those tools!!!!!
The FARO arm is the lick.
Jon Cannings Hambini’s torque wrench is choice. I’m excited for your team up feature.
Nerd vs God of bike knowledge.......you decide :-) you are doing wonders for the amateur cyclist.
I true my wheels in situ on the bike. That way they are tried against how they fit in the frame. Observe distances between each chainstay but hold felt tip against seatstay while spinning wheel to find points that need adjusting. I have not needed to replace my bike every couple of years. This is a '74 Raleigh Grand Prix made in Canada. I am also an Engineer ( electronics, not a mechy) but my course way back then encompassed other disciplines. Your vibration analyser was the only tool that I would lust after.
Enjoyed the vid. and wishing I had more time and $$ for such nice tooling you have. I appreciate a tool is only good when in the hands of a knowledgeable user....as yourself. Cheers from down under Australia 😎
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a regular viewer of yours!
Impressive! I can not even imagine about all that equipment!
Brilliant stuff, well impressed.
great stuff.I absolutely agree with you, great advice, I like to research every tool individually, and get the best one, but some times I just have to get something.
my preferred chain cleaning device is Finish Line Grunge Brush, due to how easy & fast it's to use.
Most tools I got are from park tools, but I needed tools fast they were the easiest to get, but I got some bike specific tools that are not park tool too, like abbey tools cassette removal tool, great.
but I got some old tools I got from my dad, got old Hazet pliers, perfect for wire ends, much better than using all in one tool & clamping wire end with cable cutters inside wire end clamping tool, silly. bad access inconvenient and easy to hurt yourself or impossible in some cases to do.
my experience with park tool torque wrenches is they have quite noticeable play in the head, but better than supermarket cheap tools.
4:43 I sadly had to use this more than most, cus of my horrible 2014 Trek fuel ex, after every long mtb ride I had to use it, hope for replacement frame, bad engineering imo, cus it was drive train abuser, I have only used it once on my other bikes, with new hanger, but the tool worked for me, no major complaints, but there is a more expensive option abbey tools make a nice one, I haven't tried it.
Good info. I've never tried the abbey tools, they are not so easy to get in the UK/Germany so I tend to have to go for park or tacx tools. But I agree, get the best tools for the job. Every one has it's benefits.
8:52 "Collected all of this stuffs for many many years."
13:55 definitely an engineer.
Yes! more regular Hambini content!
I try my best!
Keep up the good work. I really like your honest opinion
Binging on Hambini, love this. Fun.
For the win!
For the win!
People who question the radar plots or measured tolerances Hambini mentions in his videos should watch this video. Suffice it to say, he's not just guessing. He has also occasionally mentioned bringing frames into work to measure with industrial-grade equipment. I've never seen a bike shop with a micrometer, most bike shop staff these days barely know how to adjust a derailleur. This is a different level.
Nice rundown, but I'd put cone wrenches in the primary kit. I still use my bike frame as a truing stand - amateur hour, but it works. Canadian Tire vernier. At least I have one
I have a Sieg SC4 lathe too. Good lathe but crazy noisy! Completely understand why you changed the gearset!
Have the cheaper Park wheel truing stand and it is pretty average as well (end up having to use dishing guage a lot) - def not as good as most of their stuff. Crown race remover and star nut installer (obs not in the age of carbon steerers) make life so much quicker/ simpler/ mildly satisfying. Love your vids- there's such a chasm between proper engineering (tolerances, materials science, fatigue, boundary layers etc) and the bullshit in the marketing and media. Have been watching the docs on the SR spyplane tech especially re the titanium and it makes the bike industry look like a bunch of amateurs.
Most local bike shops I know measure by eye and ear :D Hilarious.
yes you forgot this one: they admit that they don´t need torque wrenches and measure by feel. because they are that good after all the years of experience. BUT they get nervous if you come along with a carbon frame wanting them to tight the seat post nut. they are like: "nah, better go to your manufacturer"
@@RevoltingRudi Yeah, there isn't one person on this planet capable of properly torquing a bolt by feel, this is bullshit. If you go to a bike shop and the mechanic doesn't use a torque wrench for everything, just flee.
I've never used a park tool truing stand and seen it in perfect alignment and I swear to god they revert to being crooked soon after every time you adjust them
yeah i only use it with one caliper ....
@@ahenryrose the only way you can be garuanteed a dished wheel... Separate dishing gauge and one side of the true stand
I rarely use the truing stand alignment tool. I even machined my own for my home stand. Both my home stand and my at work stand very rarely require any adjustments. Maybe it's got something to do with securing the wheel too tightly in the stand, but I know the strength in my hands!
Unless you're building wheels on a production basis and pressed for time, using a dishing tool or simply flipping the wheel in the truing stand works fine. Even in the extremely busy bike shop I work in.
Using several means to gage your work is good practice to verify accurate work. This is a common practice in precision inspection in the machining world.
Repairs are pretty quick on traditional wheels. 'Re-inventions' of the wheel, like straight pull spokes, bladed spokes, odd nipples, hidden nipples, etc waste more time. In my POV, these are silly things, which I almost refuse to build with nor recommend.
I hardly tolerate weight weenies and they don't get my lifetime truing warranty as I don't recommend ultralight, unreliable junk. Most of these folks don't even race. Its just an 'arms race'. Race wheels are what they are. They don't get the warranty either.
I've had a Park TS2, a Wheelsmith dishing tool , dial indicators and a magnetic base for 30 years.
I recently got a tensionometer, but I realized that I can guage tension by feel and tone just as well. I use it just for verification and to demonstrate to customers what they're paying for. Same goes for the dial indicators. I'm a retired machinist, so having and using indicators is a matter of precision.
I can build extremely strong and accurate wheels. I can count the number of spokes broken on hundreds of wheels built on one hand. I rarely need to true my personal wheels. My customers rarely return for my free truing warranty. If I can get very round rims, it's not too difficult to get my wheels true radially and laterally within .002 inch, along with plus or minus 5% equal tension.
Just watched this. Very good and interesting video.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
May I suggest adding or getting the latest Park Tool disc brake caliper mount facing tool? It would be great if you could start roasting frame builders on how bad their caliper mounts are. They are turning into the next big thing thats out of epic on high end bikes after bottom brackets.
The SKF tool is the non plus ultra for any bike mechanic. Keep it up Mr Hambini.
Thankyou
A good set of SAE & Metric Tap & Die tools. It's allot cheaper in the long wrong to buy one to then having to replace things like axles with beat-up threads if your going to get any where close to that far into working on bikes, I've been repairing and upgrading since the early 80's.
40 years ago you would have a full or partial Campagnolo tool kit. The micrometers were always a good option. But you could level your seat with the Campy kit.
Very cool. We love tools!
Great advices
Wonderful video, thank you!
Nice tools Hambini😊
Most useful too to a pro mechanic that no-one sells is a piece of a spoke 6" long with a hook bent on each end. Use it to hold the ends of the chain together while inserting the pin/masterlink.
Most chain breakers come with a tool that does just that.
RJ the bike guy taught me this
It takes more time to put that on then just connecting the chain with the tension taken out. I’ve put literally hundreds of chains on without needing to do that. To each his own.
Notso Fresh Every MTBer should carry one on rides along with a chain tool that idiots never carry. Avoids lots of frustration and walking! So simple, so easy even for a dummy who's rarely fixed a chain!
Funny how you mentioned how the Allen keys round out when they're cheaper quality. All the park tools Allen keys round off after a long time of use but i blame it on the shyte hardware that comes on the stock bikes. Its mind blowing loosely the Allen wrenches fit on stock parts.
Appreciate the honesty and hands-on presentation. Yet, for someone who care so much about precision and tight tolerances you are sometimes pretty sloppy with your wording. An example is that sand-filled mallet. The sand dampens the blow, so the mallet does not rebound*, not "rebound back". The prefix "re" already means "back", so "rebound back" is redundant, or to be more precise: tautological.
Wow that faro arm is awesome!
Nice measuring tools Hambini, thanks for showing them. Have you thought about a DRO for the lathe?
It's normally got a mitutoyo one on it. I removed it for the video.
Telescoping gages, (high quality ones are very affordable!) used along with standard micrometers are much easier to use quickly than those ID mikes. They do require some practice to achieve consistent measurements however. Its nice to have a ring gage standard to practice with. I can measure IDs to .0001” accuracy with just telescoping gages and good micrometers. Its a very affordable means to make highly accurate ID measurements.
Ive got all sorts of expensive measuring instruments, , probably over $20K worth. Most of it bought used. Im a retired machinist. I hardly ever used my ID mikes except on large work. Certainly nothing on a bike.
Some dial indicators and a magnetic base are really handy as well. I highly recommend at least one. To do high precision machining, I constantly use and wear out indicators. You can use them to make your machines much more accurate. I have 7 of various types and accuracies presently. I also use precision levels, vernier protractors, sine bars and gage blocks frequently for very exact work. Machining makes one a perfectionist! Sometimes it gets really frustrating when you’re working with bike junk!
Among all your basic stuff, I didn't see any bits for routing cables through frames.
Nothing wastes more time without appropriate tools/techniques for this.
I also have a micro camera with usb connection to smart phone for looking inside frames.
Bore mics, comparators and micrometers brigs back many memories… still have my first micrometer from 40 Years ago. Also used to work a production ward 7 lathe in my youth …. You know your xhit 👍👍👍👍👍
That Faro arm is a lick piece of kit, I can now understand why something that you describe as "miles out" is probably 0.5mm. I think I'll stick to the basics with the odd bit of the next level up and get my nerd fix from this channel.
Hambini is a cool human being.
Hambini do you do a lot of yardwork? You've got quite the shovel collection.
Love this
For a moment there I thought you said, “Tool!” But it was okay, you said “Tools”. Lol
LOL. Freudian slip.
Spax screws and fischer plugs ! just to emphasise my respect for your knowledge.
Interested in the Press, been thinking of turning something up for a while now (usually borrow one) I notice some on general sale use bearings inbetween the actual cup inserts, do these make any significant difference when using it?
Thanks
G.
Damn a faro arm in a bike shop! Nice setup
Hambini, I see one piece of equipment that would really suit what you do! An XRF gun. Now that LIBS has somewhat taken over when it comes to handheld material identification, maybe you could pick up a used XRF gun for your shop? :-)
Wow, jealous you have your own FARO. Have you considered a laser head for scanning? I’d have thought a point cloud scan would be easier for parts such as the crank set - I only have basic experience with them though, I’m interested to know why your preference is such.
Just discovered your channel, it’s great. Keep it up 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment. The laser scan would be faster but the head costs a lot more than the pointer. At the end of the day you still have to put the geometry in as it doesn't have that level of AI. I guess it depends on whether you use it enough to warrant the expenditure.
I'm not a metrology expert, I only use it practically and more in my spare time than for work.
Hambini How accurate is the measurement with this device? In all the machine shops and model shops I've worked in Ive never seen one in person! I have seen and used quite a few coordinate measuring machines and optical comparators and have worked to .00005 ".
Hambini I assume the FARO is more of a design and engineering tool than a precision measuring device?
8:31 for me the truing stand did not have this issue, but the plastic covers were inaccurate, so one always had play.
I think a tap and die set should also be included somewhere on this list. Especially a set of taps for where pedals thread into crank arms
I have never seen faro Arm before, very interesting. What do you use vibration instrument for? Diagnose if bearings are shot?
Bicycle " professional" mechanics can make measurements with accuracy of a few mm , more often they look for brand info on item and believe it
I avoid Squirt Lube. It lubes nicely, but tends to form thick plugs that will jam a rear derailleur unless one is religious about cleaning the pulleys.
How many point measurements did you need for the crank drawing?
mmm... Good question. at a guess about 150.
Me: Hey Hambini, Do you have a 52cm Road bike I could ride?
Hambini: Hang on i'll get my Faro Arm....
....my Fucking Faro arm, actually.
Chain whip but no cassette tool? I'd also put some kind of Torx T25 tool, tyre levers (too obvious?) and cable cutters in category 1 and repair stand before derailleur hanger aligment tool. Oh, and you need some kind of screwdriver for most derailleurs... But you should have those anyway.
Shimano use JIS on their cross heads using standard Philips heads will ruin your Shimano derailleurs I'd put a JIS crosshead screw driver in that first cat too.
pierrot867 you’re killing me dude, there is not much torque being delivered to those Phillips heads and you are doing something wrong if you are stripping them out with the “wrong screwdriver.”
Well that was fun!
There I was thinking my crank extractor was pretty tech :D
I'm a professional bicycle mechanic and I DO actually have most of these tools, mostly similar if not better quality ones. :) I take wrenching very seriously. All about precision and consistency, especially when removing and installing cartridge bearings. Rare of me to ever use a punch.
Post a pic of your bench lathe.
Park bearing and race install tool is pretty cool.I like that very much.Its the only thing limits most regular bikers because without it becomes pretty hard to install.Sure you can make PVC DIY but its not accurate...
Anyway good for you to have most tools!
Show what you got . Little dreamer :))))
You forget the autoperts ball joint splitter for removing your cotter pins 🤣🤦♂️😂😂👍✌️
Mighty useful presentation for someone wanting to know what's out there and what's worth having (regardless of level of expertise - bar seasoned experts of course).
Some gratuitous drivel:
0:05: "I'm gonna talk to you about my tools" - no comment
3:47 : "Dead-blow hammer"? I didn't even know these existed. On the "to buy" list. I just gotta have one now. I need something to bash my head with that won't rebound.
4:05: LOL even though all these Facom tools are probably worth much more than the best bike I've ever owned, I'm now convinced I need to invest on a proper set of allen keys.
4:45: "rear derailleur alignment tool" Yet another I didn't know existed! I reckon it's easy to make some contraption to the same effect. I always wondered why all my old bikes have bent/skewed derailleurs! I always thought they were made that way and that I was just too ham-fisted to align them.
5:25 : "this is a press that I've made" I was wondering what the make was and then immediately thinking that this can be made very easily by nearly anyone.
6:42 : " ... a cheap vernier, it usually reads low" So if you're on a budget, get a cheap one and grind the jaws sharp as a knife? It's only 10 quid - i'd say nothing to lose trying if you have a steady hand and a good eye. But how would I know the result is actually more accurate? Hmm....
7:42 : "if you know the right kind of bike shop, you can do that" LOL No comment.
7:58: "I'm not sure the Park tool is as good as it's cut out to be" Crikey! And it is a tool that costs a grand?
15:19: "vibration stick or vibration pen" LOL imagine guys on the shop floor saying "pass me the vibration stick" all the time!
Yet another tool I didn't know existed and now I want it. Make that 3 of them, one for each axis? Hmmm... how much is a cheap one?
Stelios Posantzis I think RJ the bike guy has a video of how to construct your own hanger alignment gage.
@@rollinrat4850 Cheers for that. I didn't find a special tool on RJ's channel, only saw him use a rear wheel as a truing indicator. I saw a video on a homemade tool on OZ cycle's channel. TBH I wasn't impressed: rather a lot of trouble with questionable effect. The rear wheel trick seemed quite clever. If you haven't got one though, an adjustable spanner will achieve 80% of the effect.
Bent rear derailleurs annoy me a great deal but nothing annoys me more than bent brake levers, handlebars and front derailleurs, in that order. In fact, I've never managed to perfectly straighten a front derailleur but I can live them being misaligned as long as there's no chain rub.
Stelios Posantzis
th-cam.com/video/sWdO4dnu18g/w-d-xo.html
There it is. I own the Park DAG tool but don't use it much on my own bikes. I rarely crash anymore, knock on wood!
In the bike shop it's a good tool to use to rule out issues when working on finicky 11or12 speed drivetrains especially electronic. Many times when eyeballing the derailleur to see if it's tweaked, it looks straight enough but is off enough to cause an issue.
With 7, 8 or 9 speed there's more tolerance for error and often you can just straighten them with an Allen wrench in the derailleur bolt.
As a part of my procedure I always put the gage on the frame during a full tuneup just to be professional. On derailleurs with shifting issues hanger alignment and b tension are the 1st things I check then I disconnect the cable, check limits and so forth.
On my touring bike, my old Dura Ace bar end's indexing finally wore out (only took 25 years!) so I'm on friction again after many years and diggin' it! You don't have to worry about much besides it shifting into the spokes! Modern drivetrains work amazingly well with friction!
@@rollinrat4850 Cheers for that! This makes much more sense and seems rather handy to have in the toolbox. He also stresses the important points to pay attention to when constructing it.
I don't own a modern bicycle so 11 gear drivetrain considerations are not an issue for me. I still want my bike parts to be properly aligned of course to minimize chain, cogs etc. wear and prolong component longevity.
Stelios Posantzis 10 speed is more than enough for me. Pretty soon, bikes are going to completely change shape to accommodate 15 gears in the rear and beyond. I thing it's pretty comical.
Sram, being the cheap junk that it is, had to introduce entry level 12 speed Eagle SX. This rubbage is such crap and imprecise that it's impossible to make right. Everyone in the shop hates it and consumers have begun to pick up on it and such equipped bikes don't sell well. No matter what we do it either rattles or shifts sluggishly. Never waste your money on Sram.
Woow good collection
I have a Zipp 101 rear wheel which is spoked radially on the drive side and crossed on the non drive side. The hub has failed and a piece has bracken off, leaving 3 spokes dangling. Do you think that the radial spoking is the cause? It seems unconventional
That faro arm was awesome. I want one, guess they cost as much as a small cobot?
Hi Hambini, I saw you on the GCN video. At the end of it you mention common mistakes during installation and I was wondering if how I press bearings in a track bike hub by using previous bearings as bushings is incorrect or not (video is on my channel). If I got you well, I guess not but I'd like to be sure. Thanks a lot
Hi Benjamin, I commented on your video. It looks fine to me. Thanks Hambini
that's one cool robot arm (want one) //[+nice language throughout-welcome change:)]
the hanger alignment can be done using the cheapest 10mm rear axle, a long piece of metal with a 10mm hole and some nuts. does the job, even if not as precise.
I’d hardly call the park tool precise, it’s really more convenient than anything else.
It just needs to need to be rigid and repeatable.
Never forget, your wheel had better be true. Not always the case even when you take even a slow innocent crash.
@@aygwm Given the shoddy welds on that alignement tool (4:42), I can imagine where that lack of precision comes from.
Hambo..Wera hex plus..instead of those nasty Allen keys you have..keep that rubbish for the lawn mower! I have put pipe extensions on them and removed frozen crank bolts. They don't round out the bolts due to their fluting. Think they have a patent on the design. You would appreciate their engineering. I don't work for the company, just appreciate fine craftsmanship. Something many companies have long forgotten..love the channel..keep beating down those clods making shit frames!
You should’ve pointed out your bike pump has the meter where you can read it. I have 2 pumps with different heads. I use a Lezyne head so I can use a std 60mm stem on a 55mm deep wheel without using valve extensions. I use a std clamp type pump head for fast inflation on shallow climbing wheels.
Would like to know how you got the Faro arm...those cost as much as a car if I'm not mistaken!
hey! how are the 9100 c60 wheels treating you? the 9100 series wheels look very very nice, i'm considering getting one. i feel like it's hard to get a wheel with better precision manufacturing than that wheel
I would say they are fine. no better or worse than the C35's I had. Just a bit heavier and slightly more susceptible to crosswinds.
Mind is blown bro! Next level $hit!
respect!
You forgot the threadcutter ;) I have the same issue with the Park Tool wheeltruing stand although i got the better version at home (TS 2.2 the metal is thicker, its a lot better compared to the TS 2.1 which i use in my shop), i think it disarranges itself depending how hard you close it on the axle, you can see the rim moving to the left when tightening the stand. It is still the best wheeltruing stand for that price, if you are good you can true a wheel to up to 0.1mm accuracy with it.
You are one of the few people on the internet i can learn something from, i just watched the videos about the open bicycle frame. I have encountered similar problems on bicycle frames from look, especially on the lower class and i had two issues with the ax lightness vial evo ultra and the AX Meilenstein wheelset. Around 30% of look frames i sold came back after a few weeks all with the same problem, noise coming from the bb when pedaling. The bearings didnt fit anymore. the solution was a bb with a thread on the shell so you tighten both bearing shells within the bb. The AX vial evo did break twice on the chain stay (drive side) right behind the bb housing. The company said its the riders fault because his weight was over 85kg, but it was actually 75kg, they wouldn´t believe me so i had to pay the customer. Also the Meilenstein wheel set was not really true. They sent it back with the words that it still fulfills the tolerance, which is 0.69mm(!!!) so when i meassured it, it was 0.67mm off the center on on spot. That is ridiculous, i can build much better wheels for a 10th of the price.
Great video, amazing measuring tools.
I have one question with regards to hanger alignment tool. I think it is poor design and has to be perfectly manufactured in order to achieve good results. The head of the tool rotates freely so any misalignment in head in relation to axis of the tool will be massively amplified. If my math is correct, 0,5 degree of misalignment is going to result in 6mm offset on the rim. In my opinion this is too much, for such a little misalignment in the axis of the tool. Furthermore the head has to be very stiff, so it won´t move in the process of alignment.
I do not own the measuring tools in order to proof my point, but maybe you can do it? (if you want, it would be interesting video :D ). I just have enough of people saying that almost all derailleur hangers are completely off from factory.... Well maybe your park tool Dag is complete rubbish. I think too many people just believe, that those tools are 100% perfect, reliable and aligned from factory... Of course derailleur will work in the some range, that is why it does not have to be perfectly aligned, but i think that tool is doing more damage than good. Maybe eyeballing is more precise than using this tool.
Marian
My DAG tool works fine on everything, including the latest 12 speed.
I use it almost everyday at my shop or in my garage.
You just need to keep the little axle grub screw just tight enough to take out any play. Also make sure your wheel is true for the most accurate results.
If you're handy, you can make one from hardware store parts. RJ the bike guy did a how to video. Its a very simple tool.
That Faro arm is pretty nifty. But should it not be mounted on a more stable and flat surface than a piece of chipwood?
Phenomenal
Don’t want to go too off topic but I saw you like the squirt lube, I can’t get on with the stuff, after 40 or so miles my chain sounds dry and raspy, I was told that I hadn’t put enough on but even after multiple applications it was the same, switched back to Muc off dry ceramic lube which seems much quieter, can’t stand a noisy chain!
I've had this problem before and I persevered, eventually I traced it down to the degreaser I was using. I switched to virosol and then the squirt has stuck. From a silence point of view, I would swear by Squirt but I guess everyone is going to have their own view.
Make sure you clean off the Muc off ceramic regularly, it dries like concrete and kills your whole drive train!
David George The great chain lube debate!!
Regular Dumonde Tech oil for me. Used it for many years! Clean and lube every dirty ride, which is every ride!!
I get 4-5 chains worth of use out of one entire drivetrain. I'll use that Muc off ceramic when it's dry and really dusty at the end of summer.
Cheers!
You are welcome
Space constraints aside, shouldn't your truing stand be the other way around so the tolerance gauge is toward you? Disclaimer: I don't work for any non tooling industries nor do I work in a bike shop.
I covet your shop-built centering gauge for your TS 2.2
I would also include threat keys and a spoke tensiometer.
Quick question for a tough stuck 4mm hex that I'm about 2 more tries from stripping out: freeze spray and then the penetrating oil? Or oil first and then the freezy spray?
I would hammer a torx bit in and see how you get on
@@Hambini it's in a real tight spot (damn cannondale seat post nonsense) so I was hoping the freespray might work?
@@justjxn2626 I would try the penetrating oil and then the freeze spray after that.