Shimano Bike Wheel Hub Overhaul (Cup and Cone)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- This video covers the overhaul and setup of Shimano Cup and Cone hubs. It takes you through from the dismantling of the wheel, servicing of the balls and bearing surfaces, reassembly, correct setting of preload and reinstallation on the bike.
Follow me on Twitter
/ hambinieng
My Website
www.hambini.com
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
To answer a few queries raised in the comments. There were a few people that said I should not spray degreaser into the freehub. The Shimano seal is located on the outside and free on the inside so it will run down towards the middle, although I agree if you can avoid it do so. Additionally, every time I have tried to take that seal out - it has gotten damaged. If someone knows how to do it without damaging it then please let me know.
Magnetizing of the balls - I don't think that is going to be a show stopper on this size of bearing.
Use a rounded lever to remove the seal without damage, a plastic tyre lever can be useful for this, nothing with sharp angles edges
I don't think tyre levers are thin enough
@@Hambini Instead of normal degreaser just use suspension clean (like Maxima) since it will not harm the seals anyway. I use it on all bike related stuff that needs cleaning.
I use a flat bladed screwdriver and pull carefully, no prying. It's just easier to clean behind the seal and to reinstall the BALLS. A convenience thing not a requirement. I have five XTR or DA rear hubs. Two things I do special, 1. I use two types of grease, the "official" DA grease on the BALLS. Then a silicon based grease on the seals since it's more water repellant. 2. grease on the outside of the seals for extra protection. Only killed one hub so far by tightening the cones too much when I was a noob at this 10 yrs ago.
I love you as an engineer, but you're not (yet) much of a bike mechanic!
Cotton buds are a quick and easy way of cleaning the old grease out of the cups (if you nip the end off with side cutters the old grease even gets forced up the hollow stick rather than getting pushed around).
If the axle ID is smaller than the balls you can lodge it back in the hub up to the cup to stop the balls falling through when you replace them.
I don't grease the freehub body personally, but I would grease (anti-seize) the axle/cone/locknut/end cap threads.
If you're not going to properly clean the cassette (be honest - you didn't!) then hold it together tightly on removal and you can slide all sprockets and spacers back on in one go just by lining up the narrow spline - much quicker than doing them one by one.
I'd love to make a video with you where we can rant at each other about stuff like this!
I have been overhauling and rebuilding cup-cone hubs for years. Even rebuilt some sealed cartridge systems to overcome play and drag. When dealing with cup-cone quick release hubs you have to leave some play in that adjustment. The quick release rod will compress and distort the axle-bearing adjustment. This distortion will produce drag. You can take a brand new cup-cone hub, that feels perfectly smooth with no play, close the quick release in a frame and the hub will develop significant drag. That little bit of looseness you leave at the axle, as part of the adjustment, will not be detectable at the rim when the wheel is anchored in the frame and drag is reduced.
"The quick release rod will compress and distort the axle-bearing adjustment. This distortion will produce drag" -- Didn't know about this till date.
Thanks for that tip.
Spot on, was gonna say he missed this.
This is why I went with a sealed cartridge bearings. Cup and cone is such a headache when you don't have a cone spanners and a vice.
normally yes, but not so with Shimano's digital cone adjustment design.
Anyone else thinking... meh feels about 40nm... by an engineer?! Love it.
I want a shirt that says "a 5 yr old told me, so it must be true" and on the backside Hambini!!
I use finger position on the allen key as a torque guage. Nothing broken, nothing fallen apart.
Once you've done it you know what it feels like.
Sez a man named "boner"
Looked a bit more than 40Nm to me from the effort put in - or Hambini needs to hit the gym a bit...
@@slowerandolder It's pronounced "baahhhner".
In the bad old days, the main bearings used to be inside the flanges. As cassettes got wider and wider and the RHS bearing got further and further from the dropout we broke more and more axles at the RHS cone (keeping in mind we're still in the steel era). Then Shimano came up with the idea of putting the main bearing on the outside of the freehub ... and the axle breakages dropped to zero.
I’m learning a lot and it’s fascinating. The un-rushed pace of the video makes it easy to follow. Or in the words of Hambini “fucking good” !
Thanks Hambini.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Maintenance tips from the guy who's never cleaned his bike 🤣
I know!
@@Hambini This is the opposite of all those GCN videos: "8 ways to improve your bike; step one - clean the bike". Well done from a fellow dirty bike advocate. But even I would have given the rims a little love before putting the wheel back on the bike.
The only part of a bike that actually needs to be kept clean is the grease in the bearings and maybe the wheel rims and brake pads.
Excessive washing just increases the risk of getting water contamination in the bearing grease and rusts steel parts like cables.
@@Ed.R I don't get much dirt on my bike but when I do, I just wipe it off with a cloth, very rarely do I use water or soap/degreaser on my bike.
If anything, that makes him better qualified! The uncleaned and neglected bike is often the one that requires the most maintenance.
16:34 The freehub ball race cup looks damaged/cracked at the 11 O'clock position, to the right of your finger at 16:36
Personally I would clean & examine it V/closely before just "filling with grease" and replacing the bearing balls.
I'd also clean & check the balls for damage.
Much as I respect/admire your skills as an engineer, your maintenance and cleaning regimes leave a lot to be desired.
Keep up the good work. I do enjoy your videos.
One way to keep your balls from dropping everywhere is to put a towel down below to keep them from bouncing and pinging everywhere. With a latex glove and degreaser, you can roll your balls around in the palm of your hand, then use a paper towel to finish the cleanup before they go back in... or get new bearings if you see any metal flake in the old grease caused by wear. Those grease guns that fit to tubes of grease are a wonderful addition to your tool kit. Far less messy and much faster for servicing.
If you're ever planning on washing that bike - PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO! I'm sure a lot of us would die to see it 😂
Made me laugh! Yeah, absolutely.
He should give it to GCN. They make a video about "Wash your bike!" every now and then but they usually haven't really dirty bikes available :-D
Just dip the whole thing in a diesel bath then replace all the grease and seals. Repeat every 10 years.
That is one filthy bike.
IF only mrs Hambini was that dirty
@@Hambini she is, 🤔 oh you didn't know🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Rides better like this 😎.
I'd take that over a bike that's cleaned all the time because the bearings on Hambini's bike haven't had the grease washed out of them by being washed with surface tension reducing solvents all the time. Santa Cruz actually published some results they had from their customers showing that the cleanest bikes were going through suspension bearings more quickly than the dirtiest ones. the chain is the only thing worth cleaning regularly on a bike.
RollinRat - I’ve seen bike shops use power washers to clean bikes. I cringed.
I'm feeling a little uneasy watching Hambini not swearing in his video..
No sign of the pink princess blanket either ....
I much prefer it this way
Especially when the chain from the chain whip kept falling off. I would have said a few choice words!
I did overhaul my wheel hub two weeks ago yet I enjoyed watching every minute of this video.
Hambini, probably one of a handful of people around the world who commute in ironman style.
@hambini you would love a parts washer and a pressure washer and a clean towel. They are as awesome as some of the tools you use. The cleaning part of your video was like watching someone run a key down a Ferrari... It was just hard to watch. But of course, love your stuff. Keep being you.
You forgot to mention inspecting the cones for pitting. I'd say that's one of the priorities for a cup and cone hub overhaul.
Except this is a commuter bike that has seen no love. All it's parts are going to be trashed.
@@loopie007 commuter bike with dura ace wheels that have trashed cup and cone surfaces? ouch!
It spun smooth and he probably gave them a visual. Plus I expect as they're meant to last they're probably good and any failure would be obvious. Of course, you could always try ceramic..
@5:07: There's a glitch in the Matrix
Benz Ouyang do you ever have déjà vu?
Where's the cat😎😎😎
Groundhog day.
Yes Mr Anderson 😂
I came here to say exactly this. Thank you.
Love this video. Hands to action, methodical and precise. No swearing (no one needs a teardown here), just efficient adjustment.
Love it and yes to the advice on flat surface, I spent the better part of a night looking for a lost bearing. And I prefer coloured grease for contrast but other than that this was a beauty.
I'm just a home mechanic but have done this many times and offer these tips. If your drive side has a 5mm hex, you can stick an hex key in that and loosen the non-drive side. That way you would not have to remove the freehub and cassette, which would be OK in the case where there are separate wheel and freehub bearings (as in the Zipp design presented earlier in this video, but NOT as shown with Hambini's wheel here). Particularly handy for quick inspections and periodic cleanings. Also, if you're going to do a complete job nicely, it has to be a lot cleaner than this, and at the same time you can also clean and lubricate (with oil, no grease) the pawls and springs . Another tip is to set the preload while the wheel is in the frame and the QR secured (possible on Campy and some other hubs), in order to remove the most play while keeping the wheel spinning freely.
I was certain that once you mentioned Zipp that your normally colorful language would let rip, but it never did! Finally one of your videos I can watch when my grandkids are in the room. Thank you!
First time doing, I had absolutely no idea what to expect. With your video it was easy task to regrease bearings and adjust cone on Deore XT. Thank you!
There's a discernible amount of balls being preloaded, shafts wiggled and otherwise female parts in the video. Then again it's Hambini so this is exactly what I came here for. Thumbs up!
It's really amazing to see how much this hub resembles my 25 year old Shimano hubs. A bit of cleaning and maintenance over the years, and they are still buttery smooth. There's nothing sexy about the cup and cone bearing design (at least any more, now that any marketing literature I had has been lost). It just gets the job done.
@RollinRat BS of the highest grade. You con't imagine how quickly i can smash out sealed bearing cartridges and smack them in on more modern hub design. The first time may be a bit difficult because they typically smack them in without greasing the seatings. But once you have done that it is far quicker then this fiddling around with loose balls and preload guessing.
Time for a cyclocross bike methinks! Also, you demonstrated why you don't put the chain whip on the largest sprocket. Go about halfway up the cassette, this makes the chain whip stay on better, and also spreads the force between more splines on the freehub. I tend to go for the one at the bottom of the spider.
Really liked your step-by-step, non-glossy work including engineering diagrams and funny use of home made nano-meter guide. My Dad was a tool and die maker and taught me to wrench. His torque meter was also "by feel". Thanks again!
Aero bike for commuting is ideal, that's where you really need the energy savings. Save a couple watts on a commute and that's food money saved.
Great video coming from a pro bicycle tech myself i was going to do a how to video on replacement of the axle/bearing assembly of this exact wheel but you did a great job very detailed step-by-step 👍
These new fangled Shimano cup and cone hubs may be different, but on their older stuff you have to pre load the bearing ever so slightly lose as the rest of the play is taken up by the QR.
I'm a fan of Shimano wheel bearings however I've always found them with what I feel is too much pre load from the factory. I'm not doubting their reason but I prefer to just take the play out and service annually. You can also buy the lower spec wheels/hubs and replace the bearings with high grade balls. Smooth as silk.
Shimano over tighten their hubs from the factory deliberately so the cups/cones/bearing bed in to each other quicker. The idea is that you run them like that for the first few hundred kms then readjust the cones so they run smooth. Which of course no one has ever done in the history of bike mechanics.
Great video. Recommend changing colour of mouse pointer to bright pink or enlarging it at least for any future videos. Thanks for taking the time to put this video together.
Could you look at some other hub designs and point out why they're good or bad, e.g. king, dt swiss, hope etc? Each brand makes claims about being great so it'd be interesting to see your take on the designs!
I learned that in a quick-release hub cup-and-cone bearings should be adjusted with the tiniest bit of play as the squewer compresses the assembly slightly when it's tightened. You have to play with the adjustment to get it right but this gives you the best spinning bearing.
On a hub that uses nuts to hold the wheel in the drop-outs (cheap bikes) there shouldn't be any play as the nuts just tension the axle where it passed through the drop-out and don't compress the hub.
I read that too, I find it nonsensical; there's no way the QR can press tight enough to compress all the metal a hub is made of; I have done my hubs several times, and when I did that, leave them with a teeny tiny bit of play, they just, remain with play after the QR is on.
This is old school & it's correct on old school hubs - where the bearings on each side of the hub are held in adjustment by a cone and locknut threaded onto the axle. The QR pushes each cone/nut combo toward the center of the hub by the thread tolerance, tightening the bearing adjustment.
@@slowerandolder Old school or not, I imagine it's still the best way to adjust any cup and cone hub? The cones are threaded onto the axle in all of them. If you leave a tiny bit of play in a Shimano or Campagnolo hub, it definitely goes away when you close the QR tight. I always thought that's the best possible adjustment, and it's easy to get since you can adjust the NDS cone with the wheel in fork.
I was told the middle of the qr axle buckles a tiny bit
The Shimano directions outline that procedure. The QR compression is small; the adjustment delicate. If I am to ham handedly screw it up, I prefer slightly loose to too tight.
So Hambini shows how to overhaul DA hubs on a very dirty S5 commuter bike and people are commenting on the way he cleans his balls 😂.
Loved the vid and love the ease of service on Shimano hubs.
FYI if your chain tool does not wrap around and keeps falling off use the parts bin and install a longer piece of chain on the tool
That looks like a well used bike!
I think you can see the concave wear on the braking surface of the wheel. Almost time for replacement#!
With a flat screwdriver you take out that seal little by little until it pops out.And then you are puting it back with that end bolt ring that tightens all the sprockets but without the sprokets,then you see that the seal is going back evenly
“You can probably get it from a hardware shop” almost certainly translates as “I stole this from work”?
Let's start a gofundme campaign to get our dear Hambini some new blue shop towels
People are quick to criticize Shimano hubs because they're not cartridge bearing, and the cups can be a bit prone to pitting, however the cheap Shimano hubs are probably what sour people's experiences with them. I've got some mid 90's XT "Parallax" hubs that are still perfect after 23 years, and they weren't necessarily serviced regularly, or at all.
Damn I thought I was bad on my bike not cleaning it, but Hambini beats me to it. I feel great, thank you! :P
Everyone using a bike as a daily commuter around the year will have the same situation as Hambini has here.
speaking of back hubs, you can also talk about gouging problems on the nowadays top level Alloy freewheels
WOW, many thanks to show us about how dirty our hubs actully are.I do have a set of Dura Ace C40 and really wasnt aware about he cups and cones that shimano use.
So basically get shimano wheels an your sorted.
Aerospace engineer services rear hub, you really could not get a better demo than this, golden 🙏
An unexpected Hambini appears
14:10 I pulled off my very old and well used shimano freehub. I soaked and spun the freehub in a container of 2 stroke gasoline (outdoors !) and I could see tiny metal flakes. 2 stroke gas is like diesel, it always leaves a bit of oil behind. After I let it dry, I soaked it overnight in heavy gear oil. It seemed to be smoother afterward.
"Turn it..give it a wiggle."
- Hambini, 2019
I recommend using way less cleaner and not spraying it. Instead get the most dirt and grease off by wiping/rubbing it off and then put cleaner on a towel or old T-shirt and clean off the tiny bits that don't come off easily. Also if I would not bother to clean my (originally) shiny Dura Ace wheels I'd go for WH-RS100 wheels and dump them after one or two winters without having to service them whatsoever :-p Love your vids!
I bet you wouldn't say that now in August 2021 when components are like gold dust...
8:00 That's torn it, You've made a clean bit!
Now you'll have to clean the whole bike.
Nigelnightmare - won’t ride as good 😁
Is Hambini's S5 named Newt?
@@DavidMulligan Aliens reference?
@@hippoace Yes.
This is a perfect example of the difference between a engineering in theory vs engineering in practice. Get this man back behind a desk where he belongs and out of the shop!
Much easier to put the lockring tool in a vice. You can more easily hold the chainwhip on the cog. I hold the handle of the whip and a spoke or 2...I've never broken a chainwhip on a stuck/over tightened lockring.
Hambini: "Let's clean it" *makes a huuuuge mess* xD 5/5
You may have flushed out the freehub bearing grease when you sprayed degreaser on the drive side. I would spray a cloth with degreaser and then clean .
Great content and delivery as always. You need to ship your wheels to the GCN network to get washed.
A whole blueroll lasts Mr Hambini 5 lifetimes.
On the construction of the Shimano Vs. cartridge bearing hubs, one fundamental difference that should be commented on is that on Shimano hubs, the axle supports the hub at each end of the axle, since the freehub is bolted to the hub, making the hub structure effectively rigid across the full width of the hub, so there is almost no bending on the axle, while on most cartridge bearing hubs, the hub bends between the hub bearings and the freehub bearings, leading to fatigue failures in the axle if the hub is being ridden hard.
Also, you can get much smoother running on cheaper Shimano MTB (And presumably road too) hubs by fitting XTR bearings instead of the ones the hub came with. In Shimano's MTB range XTR is the only rear hub they make that can take heavy use and high(ish) mileage without shitting out a freehub body every 6 months (I have an XTR on one bike that's over 10 years old with no more maintenance than a bearing adjustment every year or two - still run's smoother than a Deore with a month's use). Since the UK Shimano importer is basically useless, the easiest place I've found to get parts from is bicikli.de/shop/ - last time I got them XTR bearings were €7, XT were €4. Get part numbers by looking up the exploded diagrams of the parts on the Shimano website - that's what they're there for.
@RollinRat I have better things to do with my time than rebuilding my hubs every 2-3 months, which his more or less what would be required to keep an XT hub running perfectly - and the freehub body will still break anyway (Freehubs breaking is a separate issue to the bearings going grindy). I put a value on my time, so I'm more than happy to spend more money to get parts that don't need minding.
This is why Marzocchi going out of business was the worst thing to ever happen in the bike industry - their open bath coil forks were genuine fit and forget items. There's literally nothing on the market now that'll work anything like as well for as long with no maintenance beyond basic cleaning.
@RollinRat Where I am it rains for probably 9 months a year and there's mud all year around. The natural soil is mostly acidic bog, so unless a hub has good seals, the black bog water will pickle the grease out of badly sealed hubs in a few hundred miles of muddy trails.
Hope hubs are the best solution I've found for the money, because they're designed and tested in similar conditions - though their XC rims split down the centreline after about a year.
Chris Kings are supposed to be great hubs, but I don't know anyone putting high mileage on them in mud, and some of the documents I read on them when I first looked at getting one many years ago basically said they prioritised low drag over good sealing as a design decision, so I can't see myself trying an experiment that expensive.
The secondary issue with the Chris King is that the face washer freewheel mechanism is extremely sensitive to contamination because as soon as anything gets between the ratchet faces, nothing engages properly at all, so it's a lot riskier than a pawl based freewheel design in very muddy conditions.
@rollinrat4850 I've a few sets of Fulcrum and camp wheels with cup and cone bearings, I'd like to service them but as I'm not a mechanic I'm clueless but would like to learn! Are there any tips you might have for a novice spanner user? Any Campy (and Fulcrum) specific tips that may be different from the Shimano instructions in this video?
At 0:36 he mentions there's another video for the front wheel. Anyone know where that video is?
Nice timing...off to clean my bikes hub now 😀
No princess blanket, 3/10
He's probably turning it into a mechanic's coverall?
I'm giving thumb up only because this is Hambini.
I missed this one. I've got an old Shimano xt wheelset I should overhaul.
It was refreshing to get a bit of a more professional video. Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Excellent video Hambini.
The preload is best tested by rotating axle in you fingers and feeling how it turns. If the bearing is clean with undamaged races and balls, the resistance will go up smoothly and then start to cog if way too high. Cogging/roughness tells you you are too tight or the races/balls are damaged. Adjust until it feels smooth with just a little resistance. The axle should be able to spin more than 1/2 a turn when flicked. Testing with wheel spin is not so accurate as the large moment of intertia of the wheel can disguise an over tight bearing.
Oh man, I wish that shimano would put that type of preload system into every hub, almost every other non dura ace one is a pain to get smooth spinning with no play
With Shimano's cheaper hubs. the preload can be adjusted using the closed quick release skewer for a more accurate setting. Not sure if there is a TH-cam video; it is the method taught by Barnett Bicycle Institute.
@@trekkeruss i used this method after i mod my hubs to bearings, is the best method but still a pain to adjust properly.
Yeah you need cup wrenches, and need like to use 3 at the same time; but you only have two hands, and tightening one nut loosens the other and tightens the preload as a side effect, so you basically need to be an octopus to hold things together.
@@egonzalez4294 depends. you can tighten one side very firmly (on the rear obviously the cassette side), then you can use that side to move the other side's two parts together. they tend to move together. you just watch to grab the one parts which get tighter into the direction you move them (so to tighten you grab the 2 outer parts and to loosen the two inner parts). you take 2 thick 10mm id washers, tighten the qr and check the play.
I have a set of RS80's (Ultegra level?) which have exactly the same internal design as my DA hubs.
I have the new Dura-Ace hubs, very similar to yours but mine are the 12mm thru axle and I wonder if they are basically the same. Glad I watched this video because I will be digging into my hubs someday.
Keep an eye on that concave breaking surface matey
Bring that bike over, I’ll clean it for you Hambini!
You didnt take the bearings out of the non drive side to clean... according to Park Tool, you leave just a hair of play in the preload adjustment, as squeezing the wheel in the dropouts will take out the millimeter of play.
I thought about that too, but this doesn't seem like the kind of axle that would be subject to flexing under that kind of compression.
That doesnt make sense, the presention screw cannot be moved by pushing against it
JogBird try it. Crank your quick release or axle super tight and watch how it over preloads your bearings...unless sealed bearing it wont.
RollinRat True, Campagnolo is so easy to get spot on with hardly any faff.
Hi Denis, the Park Tool information for leaving a tiny amount of play in the preload is for traditional cup and cone hub bearings with quick release skewers. The wheel in this video has what Shimano calls a "digital cup and cone" system. For the newest Shimano Dura-Ace and Ultegra hubs that have digital bearing systems, the correct method is to adjust to no play on final assembly.
As an engineer I was always taught NOT to take ball bearings out with a magnet as it magnetizes the balls and thus ensues that they collect any metal partials in the system. This then damages the bearing surfaces and balls reducing the wear life of the unit.
What does is matter, he did not clean the threads or gaskets at 16:50. Why do all that work at do not clean everything
Cleaned at 12.08 (albeit with the dirty paper towel) and it's a plastic seal, a gasket is a product that normally fits between two surfaces.
S5 Commuter bike. Gerard Vroomen must be crying watching this 😀
He is a sell out anyway
I have that exact same wheel set thanks for the video.
GREAT VIDEO. VERY EASY TO UNDERSTAND. THANK YOU.
on my all bikes i retrofit the Shimano hubs with skf e2. ball bearings, my hubs are 10mm axle so i removed the cups and put 6000 on front hub and at rear 6000 at disc side using the lockring as bushing and 61900 at freehub side. removed all the cones too and add new nuts and some spacers.
the definitive end for c&c tensions and maintenance problems.
Hambini cheap on the paper towel got me pissed can't watch the video..
Suggestion: use more than one piece of paper towel and redo video !
The state of uncleanliness with which you reassembled that hub kinda hurt my soul.
16:53 I was like bruh clean that shit first
"wipe clean" ... uses a rag that's positively filthy
I like your Facom wrench set
Preload should be actually slightly loose, as it will tighten when the wheel is clamped by the QR (and hence be over-tightened if it's sung pre QR). You can put in some washer or similar spacers to test this using a QR off the bike.
Anyone else think the leverage ratio isn't much different regardless of where you put the chain whip? Obviously more teeth are engaged and thus less chance of slip off when on the outer sprocket, but otherwise anyone else think the effort level would be the same?
definitely not much different, but the effective lever length from the end of the chainwhip handle to the axis of rotation at the center of the freehub will be ever so slightly longer, so effort would be slightly lower for same torque
Great video overall but confused by your comments at 2:00 where you say the Shimano rear hub is supported by the larger balls on the NDS and the smaller innermost balls on the DS. Surely the DS of the hub is supported on the axle by the large balls in the outermost part of the freehub body? As I recall this was the major innovation of the cassette hub system over the screw on freewheel, and was primarily intended to prevent bent axles. Also would like to know if you have any thoughts about the effects of excessive preload on cup and cone bearing life. How narrow is the range of proper preload? Is excessive preload preferable to insufficient preload? I work mostly with vintage equipment and I'd love to hear any insights which might help me keep old parts working as long as possible. Thanks!
@RollinRat Right, I know that, but there's definitely a usable range. Often, when I find an old hub it is adjusted way too tight, or no play off the bike which means grindy when the quick release compresses the axle, and presumably used as such for some time. However the races on a lot of these hubs are still smooth after overhauling and readjusting the preload properly, while others are hopelessly pitted. This makes me wonder what a bearing expert like Hambini thinks about what the primary contributing factors of cup n cone bearing wear are. Eventually, you'll wear your bearings out prematurely with too much or too little preload either way, but I want to know if there are % estimates for accelerated wear for cup n cone like I've heard Hambini quote for radial cartridge bearings which have been misaligned etc.
Oh I've had more than enough practice with Record and DA and even first gen King hubs, but that can't change what's happened to these hubs before I get them. Since nearly all the parts I'm interested in literally predate me, I'd like to learn some theory behind bearing wear even if just to advise others who want to maintain their old bikes but aren't necessarily going to take the time to dial in a spot on adjustment. If I had some data and could tell them that erring on the side of slight over-preload would only reduce bearing life by an average 20% compared to 80% (just random example %s) with slight under-preload, that would be significant. I have to imagine that the type of wear caused by balls knocking around in a loose hub is significantly different to the wear caused by a tight hub grinding the balls against the races, and yes I hope somewhere this data has been established in a laboratory, just like it has been for radial cartridge bearings.
@RollinRat I would always prefer to bring something back to like new, but it's a lot of work to do a full polish and re-anodizing. I end up getting a lot of things from the dump or out of the corners of the local bike co-op that are 7/10 cosmetically but just need an overhaul, or one missing part replaced etc, and I guess I just feel that on principal we shouldn't contribute anymore to our disposable society than possible. Plus, even though technology has advanced, imo craftsmanship and aesthetics are lacking today. They really just don't make beautiful slender alloy components like they used to! Right now on my table I have a DA 7400/7403 hubset (rare last model with HG sprocket compatibility), a DA 7700 hubset, a Mavic 550 RD rear hub and set of Dia Compe Royal Compe II brakes. I've heard of the Simichrome trick, but it sounds a little intimidating! Supposedly part of the secret to the old Record hubs is that the races are through hardened so they can wear without pitting a lot longer than the typical case hardened steel, which sort of reaches a point of cascading failure once the hard layer wears through. I've also heard that they came a little tight out of the box to "wear in" to perfection, but like so many things from the history of cycling it's hard to separate the truth from legend. That '77 Professional must have been a revelation when you got it! I restored a '77 Super Course a few years back and it was a real stunner.
I see that we both use the same 40nm torque setting. 😎
:-D Rule no.1: Clean bike is a fast bike.
#2. Faster if it's Red.
and a commuter bike needs to be how fast?
@@woots2621 Like Lotus. :-))
Why not removing the non-drive side bearings, cleaning them, cleaning the cones and then repacking with fresh grease ?
thanks. This is well done and very useful. A great long term reference
Hi, you didn't check the bearing play - tightness again after tightening the locknut, or it just wasn't in the video. Tightening the locknut increases the pressure of the cone against the bearings. If they feel right before tightening the locknut odds are they will be too tight afterwards. I hold the axel in my fingers with them resting on the locknuts and give the wheel,a spin, and ideally you should feel absolutely nothing, no drag no clicking, no sounds of any kind, and of course no rocking or movement when you try to move the axle. Then you know you hit the sweet spot.
@RollinRat yes that’s true... what is amazing is that you can watch 100 U Tube videos on hub adjustment and never see any of this mentioned... have you had experience with these..? bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/digital-cone-bearing.html
So it is normal for the grease to look a bit red from rust corrosion.
Looked more brown to me -emulsification from water incursion. Either way, not good.
great videos but jeez clean your stuff, clean the cassette before putting back on and you need to ask for some rags or microfibre cloths fro christmas.. did you only have one bit of blue roll ;o)
I have DT Swiss 240 hubs. What I want to know is why the noise from the freehub is not a constant, instead it pulses. I can roughly gauge how fast I am going when freewheeling by the frequency of the pulsing. Is it wheel imbalance or something about the mechanism?
Had first ride today on new 27.5 wheels with 240's and liked how quiet the freehub was but noticed the same pulsing noise like the wheels is way out off balance. Previously had noisy E13 freehub, maybe it was so noisy I couldn't notice any variation. I never noticed this on the Stan's wheels I had on the 29er & they were fairly quiet.
Customer: Hi, I'm looking for an off road bike for riding in the snow...
Hambini: Have just the thing, let me show you this aero road bike.
Pretty much a routine job there Hambini and you explained it well enough for anyone wanting to try this at home. I noticed you were on a Dura Ace cassette there which have a tendency to fail on the carbon spider set up. Keep a check on it because after 3000 miles they start to fail. Ultegra are designed for more practical daily use at a reasonable price. Squeaky clean narration on this one, did you leave the bike as a silent way of telling people to muck off.
Yes! I've had just this problem. Any chance shimano accepts a claim for manufacturing defect on these?
Greasing the free hub body though? Isn’t that just a magnet for grime and grit which will then act as a nice bit of abrasion as you’re going along?
Remember to demagnetize those balls before installing. To avoid magnetic trap of debris from becoming abrasive compound on the balls and race.
Why you use lithium grease. Any explanation?
I'm shamelessly using this as an ASMR video
I have swapped a lot of cassettes, having bikes with 9 and 10-speed setups, and only powertap hub. I find by not really overtightening the lock nut, it cones apart quite easily. This, to me, is the only advantage over the old style where the top cog was threaded on.
yeah, I hardly tighten it with any force (5-10nm) and it has never come loose.
It's a little off topic, but I thought I would bring this up. Usually you don't fuss with freehub body as you said, but there is a fine video that shows you how to convert Uniglide hubs to accept Hyperglide cassettes. Check out RJ The bike Guy. I purchased a couple of fine Uniglide Dura Ace hubs that I plan to convert for a wheel project as well as a Uniglide Sante' hub for another wheel project. The conversion involves removing the axle so you might as well follow Hambini's video on cleaning and regreasing the hub if you want to do the conversion.
There are some big mistakes when we talk about Shimano rear hub service.
1. If you spray anything inside the freehub body and you don't make a service of this part this fluid will damage the grease in the bearings inside. And they are not protected and gone after a while. You have to wipe out the old grease. Only that.
2. This service shows how to adjust the bearing play in dura ace and ultegra hubs only. It's way easier and different from another shimano hubs. You need cone spanners for that, different sizes. Most of the people meet cheaper Shimano hubs, more expensive wheels on the market and on the bikes are built around different hubs.
3. I can't imagine removing the locking from the cassette with wheel flat on the table :) most of them are very tight and you need to place the wheel on the floor.
4. It's good to have a grease press , not put the finger inside :)
Q-tips or cotton swabs works wonders for cleaning grease and grime out of the races!
Not bad for an engineer!!!
Love your content, love the fact that you call out brands on their bull crap!
I've learned a lot from you.
Keep up the great work!
Cheers from Montreal QC.
bmx grinding pegs, an idea for a christmas project, rubber coated with bearings inside, no more waxing hand rails, for the good of humanity please mr. hambini can you fix it ?
I don't use magnets to pull my bearings out. Even a tiny bit of magnetization will ruin a bearing. They make bearing tweezers and pliers that can securely grip balls for removal and installation.
When should you replace the bearings? Do you never use nitrile gloves?, bike grease seems never come off skin.