Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* : www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!
I am a professional fence and deck staining company. We have a have a term call "flood coat" We put so much on that it becomes self-leveling. No back brushing. Blue Hawk make a stain brush that has a handle that unscrews. You can add broom handle in it's place. I believe everything in this video is spot on.
What products do you prefer to use and what have you had the best luck with as far as performance? I’m just looking for something clear or natural colored.
I was a residential painter for many years and staining was what I hated the most. I was so glad when then trend went from staining trim and cabinets to painting. It wasn't because staining was more difficult. It was actually easier. I hated it because it's so thin you get runs and drips a lot easier and the fumes were a lot stronger. Even when brushing, it's still a good idea to go back and spread and smooth things out over the whole surface. Sometimes we used a rag to soak up excess that wouldn't soak up. I'm also glad to see you mentioned brushing, as people have this crazy idea that you put stain on with only a rag. While you can certainly do that, brushing (and spraying for exterior) allows what you talked about, the excess to sit on top to make sure there is 100% saturation everywhere. I could not imagine a way to explain all this better than you did. Fantastic job!
@@TheOlzee We stained and sealed/varnished the trim and cabinets first, then painted the walls and ceilings. You can paint over stain you may get on the bare sheet rock but you can't get away with staining over wood that's got paint dried on it. Stained and sealed wood is just a matter of wiping clean with a damp cloth if you do get paint on it. Once the first coats of everything was done we'd sand the trim and second coat the sealer and possibly repeat that a 3rd time for a super silky smooth finish. I don't remember what order we 2nd coated the walls though.
Really appreciate your videos. Most people don't realize all of the hard work and time that goes into making a quality episode. I think I speak for all of your fans when I say, "Thank you!" for all your work. We appreciate you and wish you the best.
Brush will always last longer than spray. Been a painting contractor for around 15 years, if you spray to apply you should back brush and work it in the grain. If you just spray and leave it to soak in it wont penetrate and will fade a lot sooner. This goes for most stains and most wood substrates, it's a good rule of thumb if you want your work to last.
For a DIYer, spraying just seems like a huge project. Protecting my house and my neighbors' houses from overspray seems like agonizing (though necessary) prep work.
I never back brush, I use a penetrating oil based and self-leveling stain that I apply with my battery operated backpack sprayer (same one I fertilize my lawn with).
Thanks to you both for these great hints that people love to hear about and nervous to ask and with your hints and instructions on tins it makes it easier to know as just reading instructions on tins can be frustrating to some people that they can't understand them and even in some cases don't believe them so people often try to adapt their own ideas. Thank you and your guests so much for this enlightening video
GREAT VIDEO 🤗AND GREAT ADVICE 🤗ETHAN , I always love to hear 👂 advice about doing something the right way and I wanted my work to last a long time and I also think 🤔 it’s IMPORTANT ,NOT TO BE IN A HURRY 😎💚💚💚
This is a well executed video… Educating others to use the correct stain (a penetrating oil based), followed by the proper moisture content, wait time, & staining technique is absolutely critical to achieve the best outcome & provide sanity to everyone 😀
As usual, a great video. Looking forward to your video regarding staining decks. Something to consider in that video is something that I experienced and wasn’t prepared for. Mold in the boards. In a nutshell, I’m trying to stretch out the life of old deck boards and decided to stain them one more time. The boards apparently had mold in them in some places, which came up THROUGH THE STAIN in some spots. Looked like white spots randomly placed all over the deck. I really freaked out and didn’t know what happened. Fortunately, there was a handyman at the house doing work and told me what it was. The fix was a rag soaked with bleach to kill the mold. after everything dried I applied another coat of stain and we were good to go.
Glad to hear that worked out, Chris! I was amazed at how well the superdeck worked to clean the mold and stains for this fence. Made the lumber look brand new 🙂
This is really a great video! I want to add this service to my cleaning services and this video makes me feel so much more prepared for my own fence and customers fences! Thank you!
Great information. I had no idea that you needed to apply the second coat of transparent and semi-transparent stains while the coat was still wet. Looking forward to your deck stain video. Preparing to do that work this spring.
I recently replaced my fence. I watched your first video about cleaning the wood by using Revive. It definitely made a big difference. Looks bright and clean! My next step is Staining it. I just bought oil based stain Ready Seal and knit roller … I just hope this will work 😌 great. Just waiting for a nice weather to do it.
Learned the wet on wet tip the hard way multiple times sadly 😅 just habits from painting that bleed into auto pilot that kicks on when you are doing certain size projects 😬
I can say that the TWP stain you kept showing throughout the video is some awesome stuff. I used it to stain a new western red cedar fence nine years ago, and it only now needs to be restained. Held up ridiculously well.
Thank you so much for your time and effort in making this video! Could you please help me with this question: I’m using a behr solid color fence stain. It says to AVOID applying too heavily and to apply two THIN coats. But this goes against the loading and back brushing rule. Do you think Behr said this because they’re assuming you don’t back brush ?
I stained the boards for our fence before I put them up. it seemed easier, and I was able to get all 6 sides. but I did have some trouble with runs. I also applied 2 coats. I did allow the first coat to dry to where I could handle the boards but after watching this I hope it doesn't come back to bite me, because I used a Behr semi trans stain. that was 2 years ago and so far so good.
Love the content! I’ve always been interested in a good handy man paint/stain sprayer (not professional level but one to help out around the house) maybe you can find one for your next video with nick! Thanks again for all the knowledge over the years!
We will definitely be going over some different options for sprayers and which would work best for different types of jobs and people who are going to be using them!
Great tips! I want to seal/stain our cedar fence clear to maintain the natural cedar color. Aesthetically, since I can only access my side, will it grey out anyway if not treated on both sides? I understand its not optimally protected.
Hell yeah! Great work, you made some valid yet awesome points as well! Very informative, and helpful video too.. I'm sure people that are newer to using wood stains this video will really help out. Not that I didn't find some interesting, ha-ha type moments throughout. However I work in a cabinet shop, therefore I use different variations of stain almost everyday, at least, once a week. Anyhow thanks for another awesome video my friend! Until next time. Take care.
I understand that there is a time to wait before you apply any paint to new timber fences to allow it to dry or absorb paint better . What time is recommended to wait?
I am planning to get estimates for a new fence. I'm glad to see this video so I know to ask the staining contractor what methods they use. There are too many out there I am sure who don't do it right.
What about re-staining and sealing after a few years go by? I was hoping for this to be addressed. Great video either way, I learned about halos I’ve been doing things wrong! Oops!
This is a very informative video, learned some things. Please don't change any of your background music! Esp. the shoulder pumping ditty @ the beginning! Perfect!
Its hard to find a paint sprayer for a fence that takes OIL based paints. All the rental sprayers at HD mandate water based only. Is there a recommendation on which unit to use with oil based stains?
I did a “ rough coat of semi transparent stain” last week and planned on doing a second coat for more evenly colored. Am I screwed than ? How would i apply the second coat, it need it ? There are spots with very light stains and uneven.
Yo I watched this and at the end you teased a video about the additional considerations for staining a deck. I can't find a follow up video on this topic. Any plans to release one soon?
A hello from Texas! I was just clicking through the links you included for products and I wanted to let you know that the link for the stain is missing! The link in it's place is also for the airless sprayer. On another note, thank you for the tips! I will be doing this for the first time before May 1st and I'm so glad I ran into this content. @thehonestcarpenter
I love seeing the images of TWP, my family is friends with the original owners of that brand and I spent a summer working in their paint factory back in college.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Former owners of AMTECO were great people, the husband passed away in the last few years sadly. All of the TWP formula were developed by him and a chemist/scientist. They definitely had a passion for the product and it was a small family business up until 5-ish years ago.
Awesome information, expectation management is key for me. Perfect match won’t happen. Question - I’ve heard using treated lumber generally requires a dry time to paint or stain. Is there a recommended amount of time before applying stain to treated wood?
Thanks John! Yep, you definitely want to wait, usually 60 days or so. It can really vary by humidity and location, but you can speed the process up by pre-stain treating the fence!
There are a ton of different answers i’ve heard throughout the years for this same question! From what I’ve seen around 60-90 days is a good amount of time to wait depending on your weather where you live. The pretreat process and product we use actually helps pull moisture out of the wood and “express dry” it. If you are using the pretreat we can get stain on fences and decks after only 30 days. We have found this to help cut down on the amount of board wrapping you can experience from leaving wood unprotected.
Awesome, thank you guys so much for your information. That pre-treating tip would be super beneficial for when I redo my deck. Follow up question, would you still pre-treat if you want to paint treated wood? I have a potential project coming up where I might be building one of those little free libraries for someone. I used non-treated 3/4” ply, thought I had everything sealed properly, used exterior paint on all surfaces. And still seeing weather damage within the first year. My thoughts are to use treated ply for the next one. Interested in your thoughts.
I dont have pressure washer, is a commercial grade hose good enough? What is the name of the pretreat fence cleaner? Is behr transparent waterproofing wood finish a good stainer?
One additional major mistake: staining after the boards are hung. Stain & sealing prolongs the fence life by making a barrier to the elements. If you stain after the pickets are hung, the surface of the framing meeting the pickets has no such barrier. That is where the nails are as well. So they'll fail sooner. Instead, stain all boards individually before erecting the fence, on all sides and ends. Then seal on all sides and ends. The cut ends are moisture sponges. Protect them from rain & rot. Then nail them up. Otherwise the areas of structural integrity have zero protection and the stain is purely cosmetic. It may look good, but it won't last half as long as one with all surfaces stained including the areas you cannot see but still get water penetration.
@@Jay2pay Screws have about one-third the sheer strength that exterior nails do. Why do you think rough framing of a house uses nails instead of screws? There are "deck nails" made specifically for decks. I've bought pre-made wooden deck stairs that used screws. The failed within 12 months because of the lack of sheer strength. The screw heads broke right off. Screws actually damage the wood. Split-less nails do not because of the square point just like a square nail. These are why you see barns built in 1882 that are still standing in 2023. You always, always, always protect your structural connections from rot before anything else. Otherwise it will fail at the connection regardless of screws or nails. You cannot protect those surfaces after assembly. No matter how pretty you make it look, the fence is doomed to fail without those points protected. It's common sense. My fences are stained, then weather sealed before assembly. The horizontals each get 4 aluminum nails and two 1/2 x 1&1/2 stainless lag bolts holding them to 12 gauge galvanized metal L brackets. Pickets, also stained & sealed before hanging, get no fewer than 8 stainless ring shank 6D nails driven at opposite angles per picket. And I use 2&3/8 galvanized posts, not wood 4x4s, to eliminate rot at grade. My fences can withstand 100+mph gusts, and will last 60+ years before failing to wood rot; not 20. Lastly, they're seamless double-sided so all those structural components are protected from UV radiation too, which can start to break down even Cedar in a single year. Some people call it "overkill" how durable they are. We call them "apocalypse-proof." Maybe experience & engineering just don't make sense to everybody. And just because someone calls themselves a professional doesn't mean they know what they're doing. There are tons of contractors who bungle projects due to ignorance. In fact there are youtubers whose channels are all about fixing those "pro" project fails.
I really liked your comments here and was planning to copy some of your details to use on my own project. Someone downrated this comment saying you didn't know what you were talking about, staining before assembly and using nails vs screws after 1842, lol. I gave him a thumbs down and you 2 thumbs up, but now those last two comments have been removed just minutes after that. I wish there was a way to get your LONG detailed answer back. It was very intelligent and helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the info. A lot that never thought about. One question though... when staining a complete freestanding fence, what about the bottom of the fence? The bottom of the boards won't get any staining. Is this a problem? Or should the boards be stained before the fence is built if possible, including the bottom of each board?
If you can pre-stain the boards before the fence is built that's always the way to go. Bottoms aren't a priority only the tops. If you're using a mini roller the bottoms are easy enough to do though.....can't hurt
@@debbieluevano9977 oil also rubs off onto everything that touches it. It doesn't really dry. We used it for years on shop floors and any clothes that fell almost always had some black residue.
Not a bad idea. Your fence will be the color of the used oil though. I'd cut the oil with a solvent so it penetrates the wood better.....maybe use a little gasoline! You can also use old motor oil as bar oil on your chainsaw.
I stain each board front and back before I screw them on . I assume the edges need to be protected as well, so that's stained too . I paint the frame and posts . The boards face my backyard , outside is brush and timber .
Thank you for another helpful video! I'm looking out my window at our old fence that was semi-transparent stained (yes, to the point of rejection) many years ago. Any reccommendation for an old fence that has areas where the wood is beginning to show through?
Hey Susan, if the fence isn’t too bad than its recommend to clean it by the process we do in our first fence prep video. And then follow this same process. Since the fence already has some stain in it currently it will just soak up less. About 50% of the final color is determined by whats currently there. So, if it is uneven enough it may be time to switch to a Solid Stain. We usually recommend the Superdeck 9600 Series stain from Sherwin-Williams!
Hey im doing a fence stain job i need to only do one aplicatkon and can i not pressure wash since its a new house that was built and new fence ? Guy is cheap so he dont want soend anyting at all what stain is recomended
Now I see why most of the fences in my neighborhood are untreated and rotted. I recently canceled a contractor who attempted to apply a single spray on coat for my fence using a product that requires two coats per application 😮
I would like information on PAINTING a fence (white) , and not staining it (brown). I'm s-l-o-w-l-y building a 6' high privacy fence around my entire yard, one section at a time. The treated 4x4 posts need to dry completely, before they can be primed and painted. I was told anywhere from 6 months to a year! As for the pickets and rails - I began priming and painting them all separately, with the intention of assembling the individual parts, already painted. That's because, once I attach the pickets, I will be unable to get to them from the other side (my neighbor's yard). I'm using exterior house paint. Is that the best option? I'd just like some qualified advice.
Unfortunately “Paint” should not be used on your Fence or Deck ever… A penetrating oil based stain is the only thing you should apply If you want a beautiful white fence… then vinyl is the way to go
Wow, I didn’t know you have to keep applying until saturation. But that pretty much what I do anyways. It’s not that I read the can or know what I’m doing. I just simply can’t control how much I painted on so it’s always soaking wet, running along board and making a mess. Lol.
@@TheHonestCarpenter which stain do you recommend that is waterproof and UV protection that won’t peel off after a couple years? We just got a new fence put up and want to stain it, but total noob in staining. Thanks
I am a residential painter for many decades.....use a bug pump sprayer/filter your stain. Back roll the section you sprayed with 6 inch mini roller and have a roller pan w/stain if needed. Use a cheapo throw-away natural brush (known as a 'chip brush') for touch ups. Anyone brushing in a whole fence needs to have their head examined.
I used to use paint brush to do exterior doors and trims with oil based paint. It was so time consuming. I see where you coming from with the fence. It’s lot bigger area. Recently, I switched to roller for oil based varnish. It was crazy fast. I didn’t use roller before bc it was pretty much throw away every time. And I was using those one time use brushes. It was much cheaper since I’m only doing DIY projects. But roller are game changers. It’s a bit more expansive, but well worth it.
@@ipick4fun27 Use a mohair roller with "varnish" aka polyurethane finishes. In fact, if you want a "spray look" you can use a mohair for any finish. If you're using a mini roller, you can wrap it in plastic for next day use or just do what i do and knock it off into the container of finish poly or paint and put the lid back on. Of course, with bigger rollers you can wrap them in plastic also.....I even wrap my 14- and 18-inch rollers for next day use.
@@ipick4fun27 Yeah.....I won't even break out the spray gun unless I'm doing new construction or an empty house. I can use my 14 or 18 inch roller to paint walls/ceilings faster than a spray gun when you take into consideration cleaning/setting up the sprayer and the prep involved taping off everything. I only use 9-inch rollers in closets and those I roll in first and cut later.
What do you think of Olympic Elite water based stain? They claim a 25 year warranty which is probably a bogus claim to allude that the stain will last for that long.
Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* :
www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist
This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!
I am a professional fence and deck staining company. We have a have a term call "flood coat" We put so much on that it becomes self-leveling. No back brushing. Blue Hawk make a stain brush that has a handle that unscrews. You can add broom handle in it's place. I believe everything in this video is spot on.
What products do you prefer to use and what have you had the best luck with as far as performance?
What products do you prefer to use and what have you had the best luck with as far as performance? I’m just looking for something clear or natural colored.
I was a residential painter for many years and staining was what I hated the most. I was so glad when then trend went from staining trim and cabinets to painting. It wasn't because staining was more difficult. It was actually easier. I hated it because it's so thin you get runs and drips a lot easier and the fumes were a lot stronger. Even when brushing, it's still a good idea to go back and spread and smooth things out over the whole surface. Sometimes we used a rag to soak up excess that wouldn't soak up.
I'm also glad to see you mentioned brushing, as people have this crazy idea that you put stain on with only a rag. While you can certainly do that, brushing (and spraying for exterior) allows what you talked about, the excess to sit on top to make sure there is 100% saturation everywhere.
I could not imagine a way to explain all this better than you did. Fantastic job!
How do you order stain and varnish work around painting g walls/ceiling and the rest of the trim? Do you stain first or last?
@@TheOlzee We stained and sealed/varnished the trim and cabinets first, then painted the walls and ceilings.
You can paint over stain you may get on the bare sheet rock but you can't get away with staining over wood that's got paint dried on it.
Stained and sealed wood is just a matter of wiping clean with a damp cloth if you do get paint on it.
Once the first coats of everything was done we'd sand the trim and second coat the sealer and possibly repeat that a 3rd time for a super silky smooth finish.
I don't remember what order we 2nd coated the walls though.
@@HAL-dm1eh ok cheers
That variation on the stain finishing is what makes it beautiful.
Really appreciate your videos. Most people don't realize all of the hard work and time that goes into making a quality episode. I think I speak for all of your fans when I say, "Thank you!" for all your work. We appreciate you and wish you the best.
Brush will always last longer than spray. Been a painting contractor for around 15 years, if you spray to apply you should back brush and work it in the grain. If you just spray and leave it to soak in it wont penetrate and will fade a lot sooner. This goes for most stains and most wood substrates, it's a good rule of thumb if you want your work to last.
What about roller? Pros and cons?
Do you typically pretreatment or clean with water/bleach mixture prior to staining?
For a DIYer, spraying just seems like a huge project. Protecting my house and my neighbors' houses from overspray seems like agonizing (though necessary) prep work.
How do you order stain and varnish work around painting g walls/ceiling and the rest of the trim? Do you stain first or last?
I never back brush, I use a penetrating oil based and self-leveling stain that I apply with my battery operated backpack sprayer (same one I fertilize my lawn with).
Thanks to you both for these great hints that people love to hear about and nervous to ask and with your hints and instructions on tins it makes it easier to know as just reading instructions on tins can be frustrating to some people that they can't understand them and even in some cases don't believe them so people often try to adapt their own ideas. Thank you and your guests so much for this enlightening video
So helpful thank you!!
GREAT VIDEO 🤗AND GREAT ADVICE 🤗ETHAN , I always love to hear 👂 advice about doing something the right way and I wanted my work to last a long time and I also think 🤔 it’s IMPORTANT ,NOT TO BE IN A HURRY 😎💚💚💚
This is a well executed video…
Educating others to use the correct stain (a penetrating oil based), followed by the proper moisture content, wait time, & staining technique is absolutely critical to achieve the best outcome & provide sanity to everyone 😀
As usual, a great video. Looking forward to your video regarding staining decks. Something to consider in that video is something that I experienced and wasn’t prepared for. Mold in the boards. In a nutshell, I’m trying to stretch out the life of old deck boards and decided to stain them one more time. The boards apparently had mold in them in some places, which came up THROUGH THE STAIN in some spots. Looked like white spots randomly placed all over the deck. I really freaked out and didn’t know what happened. Fortunately, there was a handyman at the house doing work and told me what it was. The fix was a rag soaked with bleach to kill the mold. after everything dried I applied another coat of stain and we were good to go.
Glad to hear that worked out, Chris! I was amazed at how well the superdeck worked to clean the mold and stains for this fence. Made the lumber look brand new 🙂
The pretreat product we use for fences does have some bleach mixed in and will help prevent that problem!
this was SUPER helpful!!! 🔥🔥🔥
This is really a great video! I want to add this service to my cleaning services and this video makes me feel so much more prepared for my own fence and customers fences! Thank you!
Great to hear! We’re really glad it’s helpful! 😄
Great information. I had no idea that you needed to apply the second coat of transparent and semi-transparent stains while the coat was still wet. Looking forward to your deck stain video. Preparing to do that work this spring.
Thanks Jonesy! I’ll see if we can get to it before spring 🙂
Great Video! Thank you for taking the time to do this. I have about 800 ft of fence to stain. This helped me understand what to focus on.
Thank you very much. Very well said, not over spoken and elaborated on reasons for avoiding the mistakes. Beauty!
Thanks for the helpful information
I recently replaced my fence. I watched your first video about cleaning the wood by using Revive. It definitely made a big difference. Looks bright and clean!
My next step is Staining it. I just bought oil based stain Ready Seal and knit roller … I just hope this will work 😌 great. Just waiting for a nice weather to do it.
That’s great to hear, Evy! Good luck! 🙂
How much timd do you need to wait to apply stain
Thanks Ethan for the great video, your tips are very helpful…take care from south africa
WOW. Great video! Love the details of explaining things.. Thanks man!
Bravo. Many thanks.
Very interesting, staining was never really something I thought about too much. But I'll do more research into it. Thanks. 👨🏿🎨
Sure thing, W!
I always wondered why my stain was coming out so differently, I wasn't using enough and it wasn't saturating. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Glad the video helps 🙂
This is very good info!
Learned the wet on wet tip the hard way multiple times sadly 😅 just habits from painting that bleed into auto pilot that kicks on when you are doing certain size projects 😬
You’re not the only one! I have been to more complaints than I could count when I was a sales rep for S-W that was from that exact same thing!
I didn't know you have to use the right staining can at first thanks for explaining it😄
I can say that the TWP stain you kept showing throughout the video is some awesome stuff. I used it to stain a new western red cedar fence nine years ago, and it only now needs to be restained. Held up ridiculously well.
What about a cedar pergola? Same?
@@tpxrp6244 I would think it would work well for that.
man oh man, thank you! I haven't stained anything in 10+ years, so this was a good video!
Thanks Nick. Thanks pleya!!
Thank you
Thank you so much for your time and effort in making this video! Could you please help me with this question: I’m using a behr solid color fence stain. It says to AVOID applying too heavily and to apply two THIN coats. But this goes against the loading and back brushing rule. Do you think Behr said this because they’re assuming you don’t back brush ?
I stained the boards for our fence before I put them up. it seemed easier, and I was able to get all 6 sides. but I did have some trouble with runs. I also applied 2 coats. I did allow the first coat to dry to where I could handle the boards but after watching this I hope it doesn't come back to bite me, because I used a Behr semi trans stain. that was 2 years ago and so far so good.
Great tips mate 👍
Love the content! I’ve always been interested in a good handy man paint/stain sprayer (not professional level but one to help out around the house) maybe you can find one for your next video with nick!
Thanks again for all the knowledge over the years!
We will definitely be going over some different options for sprayers and which would work best for different types of jobs and people who are going to be using them!
@@nickolasokeefe8479 Thanks for the reply! Looking forward to your advice!
Great video and advice that we need for our pergola project coming up soon.
Thank you! Good luck with the project 🙂
Regarding back brushing, what do you think about stains that claim to be self leveling with no need for brush work?
great video
Great video I really enjoyed it 😄 keep making these good videos
Will do, thanks for watching!
Great video- thank you!
Looking forward to the deck stain video.
Great info... thanks Ethan
Thanks for watching, Grams!
Best video. Lots of instructions
Great tips! I want to seal/stain our cedar fence clear to maintain the natural cedar color. Aesthetically, since I can only access my side, will it grey out anyway if not treated on both sides? I understand its not optimally protected.
Restaining is on this year’s project list
Hell yeah! Great work, you made some valid yet awesome points as well! Very informative, and helpful video too.. I'm sure people that are newer to using wood stains this video will really help out.
Not that I didn't find some interesting,
ha-ha type moments throughout. However I work in a cabinet shop, therefore I use different variations of stain almost everyday, at least, once a week. Anyhow thanks for another awesome video my friend! Until next time. Take care.
Very very helpful. Thanks so much.
Great information.
Thanks, Jo!
Hey, thanks for the video. Your link to the "TWP 1-Gal Cedar Stain + Sealant:" is actually a duplicate for the sprayer above it on the list.
I understand that there is a time to wait before you apply any paint to new timber fences to allow it to dry or absorb paint better . What time is recommended to wait?
I am planning to get estimates for a new fence. I'm glad to see this video so I know to ask the staining contractor what methods they use. There are too many out there I am sure who don't do it right.
Very informative. Thank you
I love that color that Nick is using. What's the name of that?
I use a 1" or 1 1/4" roller. Works great especially if you are not on the proud side of the fence and have a lot of details to get into.
Great tips! You saved me a ton of headaches ❤
This was very helpful. Thank you 😊 Nathan
Thanks Ethan!!!! Great Tip!!!!
Thanks, Wolfman! 🙂
So what’s the best paint product that you recommend please
What about re-staining and sealing after a few years go by? I was hoping for this to be addressed. Great video either way, I learned about halos I’ve been doing things wrong! Oops!
Did you find an answer? Im in this boat!
Doood! YOU're good. RREAL good. THANKS!!
👍😁
This is a very informative video, learned some things. Please don't change any of your background music! Esp. the shoulder pumping ditty @ the beginning! Perfect!
Its hard to find a paint sprayer for a fence that takes OIL based paints. All the rental sprayers at HD mandate water based only. Is there a recommendation on which unit to use with oil based stains?
I did a “ rough coat of semi transparent stain” last week and planned on doing a second coat for more evenly colored.
Am I screwed than ?
How would i apply the second coat, it need it ? There are spots with very light stains and uneven.
Good advice. Cheers
Thanks for another great video!!!
Boiled Linseed Oil be ok for a fence?
Yo I watched this and at the end you teased a video about the additional considerations for staining a deck. I can't find a follow up video on this topic. Any plans to release one soon?
What is the main stain color ur using? And brand pls
A hello from Texas! I was just clicking through the links you included for products and I wanted to let you know that the link for the stain is missing! The link in it's place is also for the airless sprayer. On another note, thank you for the tips! I will be doing this for the first time before May 1st and I'm so glad I ran into this content. @thehonestcarpenter
I love seeing the images of TWP, my family is friends with the original owners of that brand and I spent a summer working in their paint factory back in college.
That’s cool, Animal! They make a good product 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter Former owners of AMTECO were great people, the husband passed away in the last few years sadly. All of the TWP formula were developed by him and a chemist/scientist. They definitely had a passion for the product and it was a small family business up until 5-ish years ago.
Awesome information, expectation management is key for me. Perfect match won’t happen.
Question - I’ve heard using treated lumber generally requires a dry time to paint or stain. Is there a recommended amount of time before applying stain to treated wood?
Thanks John! Yep, you definitely want to wait, usually 60 days or so. It can really vary by humidity and location, but you can speed the process up by pre-stain treating the fence!
There are a ton of different answers i’ve heard throughout the years for this same question! From what I’ve seen around 60-90 days is a good amount of time to wait depending on your weather where you live. The pretreat process and product we use actually helps pull moisture out of the wood and “express dry” it. If you are using the pretreat we can get stain on fences and decks after only 30 days. We have found this to help cut down on the amount of board wrapping you can experience from leaving wood unprotected.
This will be important information to include in the future deck staining video.
Awesome, thank you guys so much for your information. That pre-treating tip would be super beneficial for when I redo my deck.
Follow up question, would you still pre-treat if you want to paint treated wood? I have a potential project coming up where I might be building one of those little free libraries for someone. I used non-treated 3/4” ply, thought I had everything sealed properly, used exterior paint on all surfaces. And still seeing weather damage within the first year. My thoughts are to use treated ply for the next one. Interested in your thoughts.
@@thecrippledstudHow do you know how long the wood has been at the store since it was treated.
Should you apply a sealer
I dont have pressure washer, is a commercial grade hose good enough? What is the name of the pretreat fence cleaner? Is behr transparent waterproofing wood finish a good stainer?
One additional major mistake: staining after the boards are hung. Stain & sealing prolongs the fence life by making a barrier to the elements. If you stain after the pickets are hung, the surface of the framing meeting the pickets has no such barrier. That is where the nails are as well. So they'll fail sooner.
Instead, stain all boards individually before erecting the fence, on all sides and ends. Then seal on all sides and ends. The cut ends are moisture sponges. Protect them from rain & rot. Then nail them up. Otherwise the areas of structural integrity have zero protection and the stain is purely cosmetic. It may look good, but it won't last half as long as one with all surfaces stained including the areas you cannot see but still get water penetration.
@@Jay2pay Screws have about one-third the sheer strength that exterior nails do. Why do you think rough framing of a house uses nails instead of screws? There are "deck nails" made specifically for decks. I've bought pre-made wooden deck stairs that used screws. The failed within 12 months because of the lack of sheer strength. The screw heads broke right off. Screws actually damage the wood. Split-less nails do not because of the square point just like a square nail. These are why you see barns built in 1882 that are still standing in 2023.
You always, always, always protect your structural connections from rot before anything else. Otherwise it will fail at the connection regardless of screws or nails. You cannot protect those surfaces after assembly. No matter how pretty you make it look, the fence is doomed to fail without those points protected. It's common sense.
My fences are stained, then weather sealed before assembly. The horizontals each get 4 aluminum nails and two 1/2 x 1&1/2 stainless lag bolts holding them to 12 gauge galvanized metal L brackets. Pickets, also stained & sealed before hanging, get no fewer than 8 stainless ring shank 6D nails driven at opposite angles per picket. And I use 2&3/8 galvanized posts, not wood 4x4s, to eliminate rot at grade. My fences can withstand 100+mph gusts, and will last 60+ years before failing to wood rot; not 20. Lastly, they're seamless double-sided so all those structural components are protected from UV radiation too, which can start to break down even Cedar in a single year.
Some people call it "overkill" how durable they are. We call them "apocalypse-proof."
Maybe experience & engineering just don't make sense to everybody. And just because someone calls themselves a professional doesn't mean they know what they're doing. There are tons of contractors who bungle projects due to ignorance. In fact there are youtubers whose channels are all about fixing those "pro" project fails.
I really liked your comments here and was planning to copy some of your details to use on my own project. Someone downrated this comment saying you didn't know what you were talking about, staining before assembly and using nails vs screws after 1842, lol. I gave him a thumbs down and you 2 thumbs up, but now those last two comments have been removed just minutes after that. I wish there was a way to get your LONG detailed answer back. It was very intelligent and helpful. Thanks
If only I had a month or two to build and stain 300sq foot fence.
thanks for the video... I was wondering why my second layer stain was peeling
Sure thing, Stef! Peeling is really quite common. We’ll prob do a vid on stripping old stain and paint too someday.
Do you mixed water based with thinner????
Thanks for this vid!
Thanks for the info. A lot that never thought about.
One question though... when staining a complete freestanding fence, what about the bottom of the fence? The bottom of the boards won't get any staining. Is this a problem? Or should the boards be stained before the fence is built if possible, including the bottom of each board?
If you can pre-stain the boards before the fence is built that's always the way to go. Bottoms aren't a priority only the tops. If you're using a mini roller the bottoms are easy enough to do though.....can't hurt
outstanding 👏
I always use motor oil for any wood that I want to protect as it gives the best protection and it's most durable product.
Does it really protect better? I have been using stain protectant on my rv gate.
@@debbieluevano9977 oil also rubs off onto everything that touches it. It doesn't really dry. We used it for years on shop floors and any clothes that fell almost always had some black residue.
Not a bad idea. Your fence will be the color of the used oil though. I'd cut the oil with a solvent so it penetrates the wood better.....maybe use a little gasoline! You can also use old motor oil as bar oil on your chainsaw.
Sounds flammable!
I stain each board front and back before I screw them on .
I assume the edges need to be protected as well, so that's stained too .
I paint the frame and posts . The boards face my backyard , outside is brush and timber .
Love your videos
My fence was installed 4-5 months ago, do i need to wash or prep.
I would def wash, maresa. It prob has a bunch of dust on it, plus a little mill glaze/gunk as well. I’d clean that off before staining or sealing
At 7:13 you mentioned pre-treating with a chemical bath. Can you elaborate on that? Thanks
What is the best MATTE sealant for wood after a stain was applied - interior and exterior, please ?????
I live in Durham -do you offer staining service?
Thank you for another helpful video! I'm looking out my window at our old fence that was semi-transparent stained (yes, to the point of rejection) many years ago. Any reccommendation for an old fence that has areas where the wood is beginning to show through?
We’ll probably cover reapplication before too long, Susan! I’ve got to research it more myself 😅
@@TheHonestCarpenter Looking forward to it. Thanks for the reply!
Hey Susan, if the fence isn’t too bad than its recommend to clean it by the process we do in our first fence prep video. And then follow this same process. Since the fence already has some stain in it currently it will just soak up less. About 50% of the final color is determined by whats currently there. So, if it is uneven enough it may be time to switch to a Solid Stain. We usually recommend the Superdeck 9600 Series stain from Sherwin-Williams!
Hey im doing a fence stain job i need to only do one aplicatkon and can i not pressure wash since its a new house that was built and new fence ? Guy is cheap so he dont want soend anyting at all what stain is recomended
We use wood defender
Apply with what we call a flood coat and all the drips self level so no need to back brush
Wonderful clarity.Thank you from England
How do you avoid mildew being attracted to and feeding on the linseed oil base and getting ugly over time... ?
Now I see why most of the fences in my neighborhood are untreated and rotted. I recently canceled a contractor who attempted to apply a single spray on coat for my fence using a product that requires two coats per application 😮
I would like information on PAINTING a fence (white) , and not staining it (brown).
I'm s-l-o-w-l-y building a 6' high privacy fence around my entire yard, one section at a time. The treated 4x4 posts need to dry completely, before they can be primed and painted. I was told anywhere from 6 months to a year! As for the pickets and rails - I began priming and painting them all separately, with the intention of assembling the individual parts, already painted. That's because, once I attach the pickets, I will be unable to get to them from the other side (my neighbor's yard). I'm using exterior house paint. Is that the best option? I'd just like some qualified advice.
Unfortunately “Paint” should not be used on your Fence or Deck ever…
A penetrating oil based stain is the only thing you should apply
If you want a beautiful white fence… then vinyl is the way to go
Linseed oil
Wow, I didn’t know you have to keep applying until saturation. But that pretty much what I do anyways. It’s not that I read the can or know what I’m doing. I just simply can’t control how much I painted on so it’s always soaking wet, running along board and making a mess. Lol.
do you need to sand the fence before staining?
No, just wash it
@@TheHonestCarpenter which stain do you recommend that is waterproof and UV protection that won’t peel off after a couple years? We just got a new fence put up and want to stain it, but total noob in staining. Thanks
What color and brand of stain is being used in this video ?
I am a residential painter for many decades.....use a bug pump sprayer/filter your stain. Back roll the section you sprayed with 6 inch mini roller and have a roller pan w/stain if needed. Use a cheapo throw-away natural brush (known as a 'chip brush') for touch ups. Anyone brushing in a whole fence needs to have their head examined.
I used to use paint brush to do exterior doors and trims with oil based paint. It was so time consuming. I see where you coming from with the fence. It’s lot bigger area. Recently, I switched to roller for oil based varnish. It was crazy fast. I didn’t use roller before bc it was pretty much throw away every time. And I was using those one time use brushes. It was much cheaper since I’m only doing DIY projects. But roller are game changers. It’s a bit more expansive, but well worth it.
@@ipick4fun27 Use a mohair roller with "varnish" aka polyurethane finishes. In fact, if you want a "spray look" you can use a mohair for any finish. If you're using a mini roller, you can wrap it in plastic for next day use or just do what i do and knock it off into the container of finish poly or paint and put the lid back on. Of course, with bigger rollers you can wrap them in plastic also.....I even wrap my 14- and 18-inch rollers for next day use.
@@fritzkabeano1969 Thanks for the advise. I was using roller for speed. I wasn't too worry on look.
@@ipick4fun27 Yeah.....I won't even break out the spray gun unless I'm doing new construction or an empty house. I can use my 14 or 18 inch roller to paint walls/ceilings faster than a spray gun when you take into consideration cleaning/setting up the sprayer and the prep involved taping off everything. I only use 9-inch rollers in closets and those I roll in first and cut later.
What do you think of Olympic Elite water based stain? They claim a 25 year warranty which is probably a bogus claim to allude that the stain will last for that long.
What is the name of the stain being used?
We need a video on how to wax a car with special guest Ralph to give the correct wax on wax off technique.
I always thought his technique was questionable 😆 🥋
@@TheHonestCarpenter 22😄 Most definitely. I remember thinking, "Yeah, carnauba wax isn't that easy to wipe off."
Don’t wax off with anyone around, you’ll get in trouble 😮