That mod really sounds like adding a really good transparent overdrive that tightens up the amp sound and gives you more gain in the right frequencies.
I was hesitant to modify my SLO 30 but after I heard yours I went for it. To start upgraded to 6L6 ECG tubes bias to 46ma, change 1 of the 2 V30 to a G12t-75, change R9 ( 2.2k) from pin 3 V1a to 0.68uf/1k, and coupling cap C13 (0.022uf) coming from V2b pin 6 to 0.007uf. Can achieve Marshall/Masa/Soldano sound with more control, definition and less fluff.
Jason... That sounds like the tone I've had in my head! I built an SLO clone a few months ago, but I will try this mod out and see how it works with my ears. Thank you!
That mod sounds killer! I do think that folks that say a stock SLO is fizzy or sterile don’t know how to set it up or just have poor technique & crank the gain to compensate. It really comes down to the players hands & the way the amp is set. Listen to any great player & they sound good through everything they play on.
Playing with cathode biasing (resistor and caps) and coupling caps is my preferred way of tuning the gain structure. It is quite incredible how a single component like a cathode cap can change the response of an amp. I did a similar mod in my diy SLO preamp, I have added a 3 way switch to go from 39k no cap to 6.8k (close to JCM800 10k) and 2.7k with 0.68uf cap (Modded Marshall). Also added a pad as you did. It gives me different distortion characters and I like it !
one mod, a very easy one, you can try is to put a 100pF ceramic disc bright cap on the overdrive gain pot (I'm talking about the new SLO 100)...this increases the value of the already present overdrive bright cap which is 1nF (1000 pF) to 1100 pF...little difference in value, huuuuge difference in sound...the distortion becomes waaaay more defined, way mooore attack and clarity ...and..differently from stock...you can set the gain above 7 without the sound getting any flubby or fuzzy and the amp also sounds wayyyy wayyyy better at bedroom room levels....it retains all the attack and clarity...and all these even when palm muting on the neck pickup... I did this mod to my SLO 100 mk2 and i would never turn back...I highly recommend it...just 2 minute of work with the solder...done....you can put it even on a switch...and is a very reversible mod...you don't like it? you unsolder the bright cap. Stop. And the amp is bone stock again.
@@dnd820 you can also try this...I am talking about the new SLO 100 not the old...change R2 (68k) with a metal film 1w 33k resistor (it opens the sound, reduces sensibility to radio frequencies and it adds definition/attack to sound), put a 100pF ceramic cap disk in parallel to the 1 Megaohm grid leak resistor placed on the input jack (this also smooths a bit the really high frequencies and reduces the possibility of oscillations and the sensibility to radio frequencies). Change C6 with a 4,7nF 630V cap (improves attack and reduces bass on preamp), except C6 change evey other stage coupling cap which are 22 nF orange drop caps to 2,2nF CBB 630V polipropilene caps (this cust a lot of bass on the preamp giving great attack and definition...orange drops really suck out a looot of tone...I do not like them) change every cathode resistors bypass cap from 1uF to 0.47uF 630V (cuts a lot of bass on preamp giving great definition and attack on distortion). Change the Depth Control Orange Drop 4,7nF 400V capacitor (C37) with a CBB metallized polipropilene 4,7nF 630V capacitor...the Depth becomes a looot more gradual and sensible to regulation...works muuuuch better... Remove the 100pF cap you put on the overdrive gain pot...instead change C4 (470pF), which is the brigh cap activated with the bright switch, with a 0,001 uF (1nF) 630V polipropilene cap (this, when bright switch is seleceted, gives a boost both on the high and high mid frequencies boosting not only the high frequencies bu the gain, due to the mid boost...this really has a great effect, especially on crunch mode)...change R8 (100k) which is the plate resistor of V1a (which acts only on clean/crunch channels) to a 200k metal film 1w resistor...this pushes gain on crunch a lot making it a real crunch...then if you want to go wild on crunch gain, bypass the V1a 2.2k cathode resistor (R9) with a 0.47uF 630V polipropilene cap (this gives a looot of gain on the crunch mode of normal channel)...also, finally, to have more mids punch and bite, change the tone stack slope resistor (R28) from 47k (which is quite mid scooped) to 33k (classic Marshall value)...big big difference this mod gives...very big improvement in my opinion....sound is fuller, with a lot more attack and definition and bite...notes sound bigger....you will never get back to stock I assure you...also change V1,V2,V3,V4 preamp tubes with selected Tung Sol 12ax7 tubes..this really opens the amp up, enhancing every thing (dynamics, punch, bite, etc.)...P.S. if you do not mind loosing the clean channel change the 39k attenuator resistor (R6) with a 72k raising one leg of the existing 39k resistor and putting a 33k metal film 1w resistor in series to it...this really pushes gain on both normal and ovedrive channels, and pratically you lose the clean channel which becomes a low gain crunch channel when selector is on clean; when selector is on crunch you have the high gain crunch channel...very very close to a jcm 800 2203 hot rodded crunch...sounds really great!!!
Thanks….Sorry to disappoint but the stock was modded too, haha….to be identical to the original SLO. It’s no secret that the new ones are not the same as the old, circuit wise…
Sounds great Jason!!! Actually working on a Jet City modded to SLO spec and looking to make it more unique so I’m experimenting with using the 2nd half of V1 that’s normally the crunch channel, as a 5th gain stage. Just working out how each need to be biased and filtered to give it a nice balance of punch, articulation, grind, or as I call it giving it “sharp teeth that don’t hurt your ear holes” lol
omg, that sounds 100 times better than the stock slo, i always thought they sounded a little toobassy and nasally, ...yours sounds much more articulate,...great job
Thru the grapevine LONG ago, i read where earlier SLO'S take the pickoff point AFTER the coupling cap, and R/C on first stage of OD for CLEAN channel..That is why im sure they sound a tad sweeter maybe in old days?
Hi guys...if you are not scaed on doing mods, try the one I have done on my SLO 100 (the new one) ...it fucking kills in my opinion...this is the mod: change R2 (68k) with a metal film 1w 33k resistor (it opens the sound, reduces sensibility to radio frequencies and it adds definition/attack to sound), put a 100pF ceramic cap disk in parallel to the 1 Megaohm grid leak resistor placed on the input jack (this also smooths a bit the really high frequencies and reduces the possibility of oscillations and the sensibility to radio frequencies). Change C6 with a CBB metallized polipropilene 4,7nF 630V cap (improves attack and reduces bass on preamp), except C6 change every other gain stage coupling cap (C3,C13,C15) which are 22 nF orange drop caps to 2,2nF CBB 630V metallized polipropilene caps (this cust a lot of bass on the preamp giving great attack and definition...orange drops really suck out a looot of tone...I do not like them) change every cathode resistors bypass cap from 1uF to 0.47uF 630V (cuts a lot of bass on preamp giving great definition and attack on distortion). Change the Depth Control Orange Drop 4,7nF 400V capacitor (C37) with a CBB metallized polipropilene 4,7nF 630V capacitor...the Depth becomes a looot more gradual and sensible to regulation...works muuuuch better... change C4 (470pF), which is the brigh cap activated with the bright switch, with a 0,001 uF (1nF) 630V polipropilene cap (this, when bright switch is seleceted, gives a boost both on the high and high mid frequencies boosting not only the high frequencies bu the gain, due to the mid boost...this really has a great effect, especially on crunch mode)...change R8 (100k) which is the plate resistor of V1a (which acts only on clean/crunch channels) to a 200k metal film 1w resistor...this pushes gain on crunch a lot making it a real crunch...then if you want to go wild on crunch gain, bypass the V1a 2.2k cathode resistor (R9) with a 0.47uF 630V polipropilene cap (this gives a looot of gain on the crunch mode of normal channel)...also, finally, to have more mids punch and bite, change the tone stack slope resistor (R28) from 47k (which is quite mid scooped) to 33k (classic Marshall value)...big big difference this mod gives...very big improvement in my opinion....sound is fuller, with a lot more attack and definition and bite...notes sound bigger....you will never get back to stock I assure you...also change V1,V2,V3,V4 preamp tubes with selected Tung Sol 12ax7 tubes..this really opens the amp up, enhancing every thing (dynamics, punch, bite, etc.)...also change the phase inverter preamp tube (V5) with a selected JJ 12ax7 (sounds much better)...P.S. if you do not mind loosing the clean channel change the 39k attenuator resistor (R6) with a 72k raising one leg of the existing 39k resistor and putting a 33k metal film 1w resistor in series to it...this really pushes gain on both normal and ovedrive channels, and pratically you lose the clean channel which becomes a low gain crunch channel when selector is on clean; when selector is on crunch you have the high gain crunch channel...very very close to a jcm 800 2203 hot rodded crunch...sounds really great!!!
Hi Jason. So, what values did you use for the cathode and bypass? I put a pot in instead of the 39k. I can go from 10k to 39k. 20k sounds a lot like your mod, but yours is still better
SLO 100. The ultimate [can of bees] tone. Lol. Tight as low end in the wound strings, but that Soldano fizz where the kerrang should be always gets me. It's the sound though and lots of folks like it.
What is the difference between the stock circuits of the old and new SLO's, apart from the depth mod and position of the loop? Some people claim that they sound identical, but presumably that's not the case.
jason, i have a slo build that uses only one triode on V1 (no clean channel) have you ever tried running v1 in parallel? what was the result? It is supposed to be quieter but i dont know what else it does. I do know you need to halve some of the values (cathode caps and resistors)
Great Job, Jason (as always). But: Who on earth would buy an amplifier for this much money, just to find out that he isn't happy with the sound and have it moddified??? Why not buy an amp that you really like to start with?
IDK but, #1 the new ones don’t sound as good as the old ones (but can be made so they are like I did to this one). #2, we’ll it’s on a switch so it’s selectable.
@@HeadfirstAmps Please don't get me wrong, Jason. I am not critizising your work! I have never played an old SLO 100, but I sure don't like the new SLO 30 - that's why I didn't buy it. But this exactly is my point: There are numerous fantasic amps on the market (amongst them your own company headfirst) that one can choose from. I just can't understand why a guitarist would buy an expensive amp that he/she is not 100% happy with. Cheers
I don’t think you really know what any piece of gear will be like until you own it and use it. Trying amps in music stores is not a fair representation. So you buy it and then figure out whether you like it or not I think..
If a simple, non invasive mod gets it to exactly what you want it’s a no brainer. No amp is perfect but if that 4K amp is 95% there and the mod makes it 99% and the mod costs no more than changing a pickup in a guitar or trying a new quad of tubes or changing your speakers, what’s the difference? I do think when an amp costs a lot we respond to it psychologically a lot different than an inexpensive amp in how it satisfies us. Now, I’m talking about subtle tweaks. I do agree with you if the amp is re-worked in a big way. People buy $5000 Wizards and then after band and recording contexts might wish the mids (or whatever) were a little different after using it for a while. $7 in parts and 30 minutes might make it finally feel like it was worth the 5K. Personally I get amazing tones out of Laney Pro Tube 50 and a pedal, that rival any high gainer (Marshall based) I’ve ever tried and it cost me $375 8 years ago. I find when I get a good deal on an amp I can live with a fare bit and get my tweaks through external devices and speaker choices. I’m not into Marshall mods for more gain. I’ve always missed the OG tone (which disappears) and there’s too many good pedals to lose your OG tone in the process.
I think every SLO-100 should be modded! I HATE the tone of them. They sound "sterile" and if you hit a cord, they choke out early! Funny, this amp sounds more "fizzy" than the one's I've played or built. But then again, always listened to SLO's live and not thru headphones, which I am now. Given the fizz, I'd probably roll some off of the top end also. The Boogies are a direct rip off of the SLO, except for ONE part....reducing the 39k to 10k and making it not so cold. Yeah, mods to start off of is voicing it right, extending the length of time the notes ring out, and roll off some of that fizz to start with. Don't really care for the Boogie tone either! It's like the both have something going on, but fall short imo.
That mod really sounds like adding a really good transparent overdrive that tightens up the amp sound and gives you more gain in the right frequencies.
I was hesitant to modify my SLO 30 but after I heard yours I went for it. To start upgraded to 6L6 ECG tubes bias to 46ma, change 1 of the 2 V30 to a G12t-75, change R9 ( 2.2k) from pin 3 V1a to 0.68uf/1k, and coupling cap C13 (0.022uf) coming from V2b pin 6 to 0.007uf.
Can achieve Marshall/Masa/Soldano sound with more control, definition and less fluff.
Good stuff
Jason... That sounds like the tone I've had in my head! I built an SLO clone a few months ago, but I will try this mod out and see how it works with my ears. Thank you!
Sounds tighter and removes some of the low end rumble. Very nice!
Modded mine today with a 2.2K and .68 bypass cap, with a 220K grid shunt resistor and had great results. Thanks!
Let the 39k put a capacitor in parallel (47n or 220n) et voila! 👍 When you try, let me know!
That mod sounds killer! I do think that folks that say a stock SLO is fizzy or sterile don’t know how to set it up or just have poor technique & crank the gain to compensate. It really comes down to the players hands & the way the amp is set. Listen to any great player & they sound good through everything they play on.
Sounds totally sick!!! Awesome job, Jason!
So what were the values in the divider and the following stage?
Playing with cathode biasing (resistor and caps) and coupling caps is my preferred way of tuning the gain structure. It is quite incredible how a single component like a cathode cap can change the response of an amp. I did a similar mod in my diy SLO preamp, I have added a 3 way switch to go from 39k no cap to 6.8k (close to JCM800 10k) and 2.7k with 0.68uf cap (Modded Marshall). Also added a pad as you did. It gives me different distortion characters and I like it !
IMHO, it does sound better with the mod. I have a new SLO 100 and would love to have this mod done
one mod, a very easy one, you can try is to put a 100pF ceramic disc bright cap on the overdrive gain pot (I'm talking about the new SLO 100)...this increases the value of the already present overdrive bright cap which is 1nF (1000 pF) to 1100 pF...little difference in value, huuuuge difference in sound...the distortion becomes waaaay more defined, way mooore attack and clarity ...and..differently from stock...you can set the gain above 7 without the sound getting any flubby or fuzzy and the amp also sounds wayyyy wayyyy better at bedroom room levels....it retains all the attack and clarity...and all these even when palm muting on the neck pickup... I did this mod to my SLO 100 mk2 and i would never turn back...I highly recommend it...just 2 minute of work with the solder...done....you can put it even on a switch...and is a very reversible mod...you don't like it? you unsolder the bright cap. Stop. And the amp is bone stock again.
So, I finally tried out what you mentioned.......It sounds AWESOME!!!!
@@dnd820 you can also try this...I am talking about the new SLO 100 not the old...change R2 (68k) with a metal film 1w 33k resistor (it opens the sound, reduces sensibility to radio frequencies and it adds definition/attack to sound), put a 100pF ceramic cap disk in parallel to the 1 Megaohm grid leak resistor placed on the input jack (this also smooths a bit the really high frequencies and reduces the possibility of oscillations and the sensibility to radio frequencies). Change C6 with a 4,7nF 630V cap (improves attack and reduces bass on preamp), except C6 change evey other stage coupling cap which are 22 nF orange drop caps to 2,2nF CBB 630V polipropilene caps (this cust a lot of bass on the preamp giving great attack and definition...orange drops really suck out a looot of tone...I do not like them) change every cathode resistors bypass cap from 1uF to 0.47uF 630V (cuts a lot of bass on preamp giving great definition and attack on distortion).
Change the Depth Control Orange Drop 4,7nF 400V capacitor (C37) with a CBB metallized polipropilene 4,7nF 630V capacitor...the Depth becomes a looot more gradual and sensible to regulation...works muuuuch better...
Remove the 100pF cap you put on the overdrive gain pot...instead change C4 (470pF), which is the brigh cap activated with the bright switch, with a 0,001 uF (1nF) 630V polipropilene cap (this, when bright switch is seleceted, gives a boost both on the high and high mid frequencies boosting not only the high frequencies bu the gain, due to the mid boost...this really has a great effect, especially on crunch mode)...change R8 (100k) which is the plate resistor of V1a (which acts only on clean/crunch channels) to a 200k metal film 1w resistor...this pushes gain on crunch a lot making it a real crunch...then if you want to go wild on crunch gain, bypass the V1a 2.2k cathode resistor (R9) with a 0.47uF 630V polipropilene cap (this gives a looot of gain on the crunch mode of normal channel)...also, finally, to have more mids punch and bite, change the tone stack slope resistor (R28) from 47k (which is quite mid scooped) to 33k (classic Marshall value)...big big difference this mod gives...very big improvement in my opinion....sound is fuller, with a lot more attack and definition and bite...notes sound bigger....you will never get back to stock I assure you...also change V1,V2,V3,V4 preamp tubes with selected Tung Sol 12ax7 tubes..this really opens the amp up, enhancing every thing (dynamics, punch, bite, etc.)...P.S. if you do not mind loosing the clean channel change the 39k attenuator resistor (R6) with a 72k raising one leg of the existing 39k resistor and putting a 33k metal film 1w resistor in series to it...this really pushes gain on both normal and ovedrive channels, and pratically you lose the clean channel which becomes a low gain crunch channel when selector is on clean; when selector is on crunch you have the high gain crunch channel...very very close to a jcm 800 2203 hot rodded crunch...sounds really great!!!
Could you please reveal the values for this mod? It sounds killer! Thanks for all the info on the channel!
3:14 Stock SLO
4:04 Headfirst Modded SLO
3:18 Solo stock SLO
4:11 HF Modded SLO
Came to hear the difference between stock and your awesome mod to an already killer amp. Stayed for Jason’s solid, tasty guitar playing!
Thanks!
Hi Monster , i m the only one that prefers it stock ahah , it s too bright to my tastes but more marshall for sure , great job like always !!
Thanks….Sorry to disappoint but the stock was modded too, haha….to be identical to the original SLO. It’s no secret that the new ones are not the same as the old, circuit wise…
@@HeadfirstAmps ah i never liked the soldano slo 100 but yours sound fantastic !!!!!
@@HeadfirstAmps i like the " stock " better congrats for your mods Monster
@@HeadfirstAmps what is the difference between the old and new ones. Which one is better?
How different is it circuit wise? Good or bad thing?
oh yeah brother, the mod sounded awesome!!! loved the vid and just subbed...cheers!!!
Very very nice. Great mod, and great explanation on how you got it. Thanks J
Sounds really good Jason, great job as usual!
Mod values please.....👍😁
Sounds great Jason!!! Actually working on a Jet City modded to SLO spec and looking to make it more unique so I’m experimenting with using the 2nd half of V1 that’s normally the crunch channel, as a 5th gain stage. Just working out how each need to be biased and filtered to give it a nice balance of punch, articulation, grind, or as I call it giving it “sharp teeth that don’t hurt your ear holes” lol
It’s a delicate balance!
omg, that sounds 100 times better than the stock slo, i always thought they sounded a little toobassy and nasally, ...yours sounds much more articulate,...great job
Thanks man. Yeah they can get really bloated right.
Thru the grapevine LONG ago, i read where earlier SLO'S take the pickoff point AFTER the coupling cap, and R/C on first stage of OD for CLEAN channel..That is why im sure they sound a tad sweeter maybe in old days?
I love it. Thanks for sharing
Knaggs are awesome with Les Paul style bridge. Guitar sounds great.
Modern classics aren’t they.
You naughty boy!!! Love it
Ugh, Jason. Flawless.
Nice mod 😃 You kinda made it like the Channel 3 of the Diezel VH4 (same principle regarding the schematic).
Hi guys...if you are not scaed on doing mods, try the one I have done on my SLO 100 (the new one) ...it fucking kills in my opinion...this is the mod:
change R2 (68k) with a metal film 1w 33k resistor (it opens the sound, reduces sensibility to radio frequencies and it adds definition/attack to sound), put a 100pF ceramic cap disk in parallel to the 1 Megaohm grid leak resistor placed on the input jack (this also smooths a bit the really high frequencies and reduces the possibility of oscillations and the sensibility to radio frequencies). Change C6 with a CBB metallized polipropilene 4,7nF 630V cap (improves attack and reduces bass on preamp), except C6 change every other gain stage coupling cap (C3,C13,C15) which are 22 nF orange drop caps to 2,2nF CBB 630V metallized polipropilene caps (this cust a lot of bass on the preamp giving great attack and definition...orange drops really suck out a looot of tone...I do not like them) change every cathode resistors bypass cap from 1uF to 0.47uF 630V (cuts a lot of bass on preamp giving great definition and attack on distortion).
Change the Depth Control Orange Drop 4,7nF 400V capacitor (C37) with a CBB metallized polipropilene 4,7nF 630V capacitor...the Depth becomes a looot more gradual and sensible to regulation...works muuuuch better...
change C4 (470pF), which is the brigh cap activated with the bright switch, with a 0,001 uF (1nF) 630V polipropilene cap (this, when bright switch is seleceted, gives a boost both on the high and high mid frequencies boosting not only the high frequencies bu the gain, due to the mid boost...this really has a great effect, especially on crunch mode)...change R8 (100k) which is the plate resistor of V1a (which acts only on clean/crunch channels) to a 200k metal film 1w resistor...this pushes gain on crunch a lot making it a real crunch...then if you want to go wild on crunch gain, bypass the V1a 2.2k cathode resistor (R9) with a 0.47uF 630V polipropilene cap (this gives a looot of gain on the crunch mode of normal channel)...also, finally, to have more mids punch and bite, change the tone stack slope resistor (R28) from 47k (which is quite mid scooped) to 33k (classic Marshall value)...big big difference this mod gives...very big improvement in my opinion....sound is fuller, with a lot more attack and definition and bite...notes sound bigger....you will never get back to stock I assure you...also change V1,V2,V3,V4 preamp tubes with selected Tung Sol 12ax7 tubes..this really opens the amp up, enhancing every thing (dynamics, punch, bite, etc.)...also change the phase inverter preamp tube (V5) with a selected JJ 12ax7 (sounds much better)...P.S. if you do not mind loosing the clean channel change the 39k attenuator resistor (R6) with a 72k raising one leg of the existing 39k resistor and putting a 33k metal film 1w resistor in series to it...this really pushes gain on both normal and ovedrive channels, and pratically you lose the clean channel which becomes a low gain crunch channel when selector is on clean; when selector is on crunch you have the high gain crunch channel...very very close to a jcm 800 2203 hot rodded crunch...sounds really great!!!
Thanks for the detailed comment…appreciated!
Where do i attach alligator clip on slo100?
where can I get the schematic for this mod and how $?
outstanding brutal but
beautiful thank you
Soldano ought to make that mod stock on their amps, because I honestly think that mod improves the amp's tone.
Hi, Mike Soldano explained why he used 39k as cold clipper in a tone talk episode (with Friedman Huzansky).
Both for the win! Wayyy nice mod though. First thing to go when tracking is low end baby 🤟🏻🎸
Hi Jason. So, what values did you use for the cathode and bypass? I put a pot in instead of the 39k. I can go from 10k to 39k. 20k sounds a lot like your mod, but yours is still better
SLO 100. The ultimate [can of bees] tone. Lol. Tight as low end in the wound strings, but that Soldano fizz where the kerrang should be always gets me. It's the sound though and lots of folks like it.
Nice 👍🏻. Thanks for sharing
should turn one into a four input plexi
Great Sound! Do you have the Stock Humbuckers in the Knaggs Guitar? SD Candy Humbucker!?
Stock SD Saturday Night Specials
What is the difference between the stock circuits of the old and new SLO's, apart from the depth mod and position of the loop? Some people claim that they sound identical, but presumably that's not the case.
awesome!
Your Mod is killer....
🔥🔥🔥
What guitar model and color please 🙏
It’s a Knaggs Eric Steckel signature. Trans blue or something they call it.
@@HeadfirstAmps thanks
I like your modded tone better!
jason, i have a slo build that uses only one triode on V1 (no clean channel) have you ever tried running v1 in parallel? what was the result? It is supposed to be quieter but i dont know what else it does. I do know you need to halve some of the values (cathode caps and resistors)
I’ve not tried it in a SLO but it is in the Marshall Vintage Modern that Ive worked on. Sounds ok. Slightly more gain than a single stage
Would this work on the Soldano Reverb-O-Sonic?
not sure - I'd need to check the schematic
Does this affect the crunch channel as well? That’s the one I’d like to mod
No, but I did mod that too to "Marshall-ish" it.
would love to hear that@@HeadfirstAmps
Love it Jase. Hey if you can have a crack. Why not? Haha
Great Job, Jason (as always). But: Who on earth would buy an amplifier for this much money, just to find out that he isn't happy with the sound and have it moddified??? Why not buy an amp that you really like to start with?
IDK but, #1 the new ones don’t sound as good as the old ones (but can be made so they are like I did to this one). #2, we’ll it’s on a switch so it’s selectable.
@@HeadfirstAmps Please don't get me wrong, Jason. I am not critizising your work! I have never played an old SLO 100, but I sure don't like the new SLO 30 - that's why I didn't buy it. But this exactly is my point: There are numerous fantasic amps on the market (amongst them your own company headfirst) that one can choose from. I just can't understand why a guitarist would buy an expensive amp that he/she is not 100% happy with. Cheers
I don’t think you really know what any piece of gear will be like until you own it and use it. Trying amps in music stores is not a fair representation. So you buy it and then figure out whether you like it or not I think..
If a simple, non invasive mod gets it to exactly what you want it’s a no brainer. No amp is perfect but if that 4K amp is 95% there and the mod makes it 99% and the mod costs no more than changing a pickup in a guitar or trying a new quad of tubes or changing your speakers, what’s the difference? I do think when an amp costs a lot we respond to it psychologically a lot different than an inexpensive amp in how it satisfies us. Now, I’m talking about subtle tweaks. I do agree with you if the amp is re-worked in a big way. People buy $5000 Wizards and then after band and recording contexts might wish the mids (or whatever) were a little different after using it for a while. $7 in parts and 30 minutes might make it finally feel like it was worth the 5K. Personally I get amazing tones out of Laney Pro Tube 50 and a pedal, that rival any high gainer (Marshall based) I’ve ever tried and it cost me $375 8 years ago. I find when I get a good deal on an amp I can live with a fare bit and get my tweaks through external devices and speaker choices. I’m not into Marshall mods for more gain. I’ve always missed the OG tone (which disappears) and there’s too many good pedals to lose your OG tone in the process.
Oh yea
mod sounds better than stock actually... less woofy and bloated on the lower registers
Is it just me that likes better the original sound? BTW,... great explanation of the mod....
Sounds like my ex-wife she is coldly biased!
lol
It just added a lot a high frequencies and diminished the mids. To me it's not a gain.
I think every SLO-100 should be modded! I HATE the tone of them. They sound "sterile" and if you hit a cord, they choke out early!
Funny, this amp sounds more "fizzy" than the one's I've played or built. But then again, always listened to SLO's live and not thru headphones, which I am now.
Given the fizz, I'd probably roll some off of the top end also.
The Boogies are a direct rip off of the SLO, except for ONE part....reducing the 39k to 10k and making it not so cold.
Yeah, mods to start off of is voicing it right, extending the length of time the notes ring out, and roll off some of that fizz to start with.
Don't really care for the Boogie tone either! It's like the both have something going on, but fall short imo.