You know, I think I had this problem. Being a stupid kid, I just turned the wheel all the way to the right then all the way to the left then to the middle and it fixed it! I just walked it through the calibration for it and it worked!
In my case, that tiny "wheel" was cracked. That caused it slipping on an axle. Well, I glued it back together (note that those small holes in the edge of "wheel" should not be blocked!) and I used a very small amount of glue to make "wheel" to stay firmly on the axle. After that, I was able to calibrate the driving force gt. However I think I messed up with those small holes I mentioned above, because calibration takes longer than before and the wheel is slightly misaligned after the calibration. I overall, this video is correct and pin points the problem.
If you look close in the video, you can also see that my piece is cracked in multiple places. I thought it was normal at first but the best fix for that problem is if you just buy a replacement made out of brass or similar sturdy material.
I have a problem I connect the source cable it doesn't even light up in the middle I already changed the source and it doesn't work help me what can it be
Hey look i think your optical encoder wheel is cracked! You're going to need yourself a replacement. There's any number of aftermarket suppliers. Luckily you already know how to get in and out of there to drop it in. It's made from PA (Nylon) which after demoulding is factory conditioned to absorb more than 4% water. Due to this water the material becomes tough and flexible and also expands a little, making it easy to apply to the shaft. After a few weeks it loses just a little bit of water and shrinks on solid onto the shaft, so by the time you bought the steering wheel and are holding it in your hands, it should no longer ever just slip off. But due to heat in the enclosure it keeps losing water and keeps shrinking and becoming more brittle, and eventually the huge force of the shaft breaks it. I think minimum design life of the encoder ring should be about 10 years, typical closer to double that, but for whatever reason it might fail earlier.
Hello so my problem is just that it isn't centered, it tilts more towards the left, it still works fine but it really does bother me, wondering if this would fix it
my DfGT has a weird malfunction. when turning hard or sharply, the feedback is temporarily disabled and after a couple of seconds it works (the GT logo goes out and lights up) again. It can be used with 15% feedback strength. Has anyone dealt with this?
My wheel has all the buttons work fine, but the steering doesn't work, when I open it I found that black circle cracked, what do you think the problem is ?
@@yunusderechte7265 Alright the problem isn't with the motor itself then, but maybe there's something wrong with the gears. Try screwing it open and sending me a photo of it? Especially the gears on the wheel and wheelbase?
Mine is in the place, but the wheel is different. When plugged in USB and power supply (that works in another same wheel), I don't have light in the center buttom never .
My wheel doesn't even try to calibrate nor does the light come on. It's fully recognised and all, but it has no ffb and the steering is not recognised, every other button and pedal works. Will this fix also apply to my case?
My old GT does have a problem when it comes to navigating menus and stuff, but at least i can work around that, but the main problem it is having is the pedals that aren't working
My dfgt was doing that too and i did everything you did step by step but the “ wheel” was there without problems i replaced it and then tried again it was still blinking and making the same thing
Does the infrared wheel need to be tight? You seem to be spinning it in the video. I followed the steps, but the wheel still doesn't calibrate and blinks a light in the center.
It's supposed to sit there loosely so it can still freely spin, just like I did it in the video. Your infrared wheel might be cracked and thus screws up the wheels calibration, still.
Mine after calibrated, the steering wheel vibrate at the center but when I turn the wheel left or right, the vibrate stop. I even disable the feedback on logitech profiler.(update; the motor seems to spinning the gear when I turn on the power I don't know if it to work like that or my motor is broken.)
There might be some kind of shorted contacts which cause the FFB Motors to have some residual strength in them causing them to have some constant background power (and with that, vibration) to it, but I don't know anything about that since I sold my DFGT for a G29 a couple of months ago.
Sorry for the late answer, but the little "wheel" is called a (rotary) optical encoder. You can buy brass replacements, and it's recommended to do so because the plastic ones crack, causing the synching/calibration issues. Brass optical encoders are much more sturdy than plastic which is why they don't break. You can just look up DFGT optical encoder on google and look at your options.
Awesome my friend. You saved my life, nt ny my wheel. Such a stupid thing and finaly working again. Thanks.
dude you saved my wheel! I also had to glue it back together because the little wheel had a tiny crack in it, but it worked! thx a lot, for sharing.
Had this problem for hours much love
I did this but now again if i plug my DFGT into the PC it blinks the light for just a half second and stops.Could you help me?
I love you man! Thank you from Brazil!
You know, I think I had this problem. Being a stupid kid, I just turned the wheel all the way to the right then all the way to the left then to the middle and it fixed it! I just walked it through the calibration for it and it worked!
In my case, that tiny "wheel" was cracked. That caused it slipping on an axle. Well, I glued it back together (note that those small holes in the edge of "wheel" should not be blocked!) and I used a very small amount of glue to make "wheel" to stay firmly on the axle. After that, I was able to calibrate the driving force gt. However I think I messed up with those small holes I mentioned above, because calibration takes longer than before and the wheel is slightly misaligned after the calibration. I overall, this video is correct and pin points the problem.
If you look close in the video, you can also see that my piece is cracked in multiple places. I thought it was normal at first but the best fix for that problem is if you just buy a replacement made out of brass or similar sturdy material.
Mine has that crack too. Looks too precise to be an accident In fact I can see groves evenly spaced apart that it could break on... Bastards...
How I can remove the super glue from the small holes? the glue blocking the holes (maybe like 26~ holes are blocked with glue)
You can get it 3d printed i think (if it is beyond repairable)
what exactly is that part called? Is there a place to buy it?
I have a problem I connect the source cable it doesn't even light up in the middle I already changed the source and it doesn't work help me what can it be
ty bro ♥
Hey look i think your optical encoder wheel is cracked! You're going to need yourself a replacement. There's any number of aftermarket suppliers. Luckily you already know how to get in and out of there to drop it in.
It's made from PA (Nylon) which after demoulding is factory conditioned to absorb more than 4% water. Due to this water the material becomes tough and flexible and also expands a little, making it easy to apply to the shaft. After a few weeks it loses just a little bit of water and shrinks on solid onto the shaft, so by the time you bought the steering wheel and are holding it in your hands, it should no longer ever just slip off.
But due to heat in the enclosure it keeps losing water and keeps shrinking and becoming more brittle, and eventually the huge force of the shaft breaks it.
I think minimum design life of the encoder ring should be about 10 years, typical closer to double that, but for whatever reason it might fail earlier.
Hello so my problem is just that it isn't centered, it tilts more towards the left, it still works fine but it really does bother me, wondering if this would fix it
my DfGT has a weird malfunction. when turning hard or sharply, the feedback is temporarily disabled and after a couple of seconds it works (the GT logo goes out and lights up) again. It can be used with 15% feedback strength. Has anyone dealt with this?
My wheel has all the buttons work fine, but the steering doesn't work, when I open it I found that black circle cracked, what do you think the problem is ?
Thanks a lot man! It worked.
Is this a solution if my DFGT doesnt calibrate its center right? Right now it is a bit of from the actual center and I don't know how to fix it
Thanks dude👍🏼
I have the problem , when i turn the wheel in the right side it makes wired sounds , please help
Try turning off the self-centering spring in the logitech profiler and check if your wheel still makes the sound.
@@diazeriksson3463 yes ist make the souds also when its off
@@yunusderechte7265 Alright the problem isn't with the motor itself then, but maybe there's something wrong with the gears. Try screwing it open and sending me a photo of it? Especially the gears on the wheel and wheelbase?
Man... thank you so much, forza says goodbye to DS4 controller.
Mine is in the place, but the wheel is different.
When plugged in USB and power supply (that works in another same wheel), I don't have light in the center buttom never .
My wheel doesn't even try to calibrate nor does the light come on. It's fully recognised and all, but it has no ffb and the steering is not recognised, every other button and pedal works. Will this fix also apply to my case?
Your problem sounds a bit different, it sounds like you might need a new power adapter.
@@diazeriksson3463 I appreciate the reply mate, unfortunately that's been tried and it's not it rip
u cut putting it back together for a reason lol. putting it back is a pain in the ass
BIG THX!!!!!
finally a remastered version that isnt from the PS3 era 😅
My old GT does have a problem when it comes to navigating menus and stuff, but at least i can work around that, but the main problem it is having is the pedals that aren't working
I have the same problem but, IT'S DOESN'T WORK!!!
My dfgt was doing that too and i did everything you did step by step but the “ wheel” was there without problems i replaced it and then tried again it was still blinking and making the same thing
Hi, I bought one last week and yesterday started a smell of burning. The Wheel still working, but I would know that is normal? Thanks from Brazil.
No, that is not normal. Make sure you have the correct power connector?
it smelled like burned plastic too whe i broke it it been 1 year and i dosen't find a solution yet
Yo the same thing happened to me, all I had to do was make the wheel clamps things that clamp on to ur table/desk less tight and it worked!
Wow, that's an odd solution! At least it worked for you.
Men you are a best
Does the infrared wheel need to be tight? You seem to be spinning it in the video. I followed the steps, but the wheel still doesn't calibrate and blinks a light in the center.
It's supposed to sit there loosely so it can still freely spin, just like I did it in the video. Your infrared wheel might be cracked and thus screws up the wheels calibration, still.
Mine after calibrated, the steering wheel vibrate at the center but when I turn the wheel left or right, the vibrate stop. I even disable the feedback on logitech profiler.(update; the motor seems to spinning the gear when I turn on the power I don't know if it to work like that or my motor is broken.)
There might be some kind of shorted contacts which cause the FFB Motors to have some residual strength in them causing them to have some constant background power (and with that, vibration) to it, but I don't know anything about that since I sold my DFGT for a G29 a couple of months ago.
@@diazeriksson3463 hmmm.. That might be the case... If not I just try find spare motor at local shop. Anyway thank you for replying.
My light doesn't even come on 😭😭😭 and I have no calibration movement at all
Thanks
Hi mate I’did what you did and I saw my little black thin is crack so what name of this thing and How can I find ?
Sorry for the late answer, but the little "wheel" is called a (rotary) optical encoder. You can buy brass replacements, and it's recommended to do so because the plastic ones crack, causing the synching/calibration issues. Brass optical encoders are much more sturdy than plastic which is why they don't break. You can just look up DFGT optical encoder on google and look at your options.
@@diazeriksson3463 No problemmate , I searched and found and it's solved thank to you mate
cool video. i just bought this wheel it's bad ass for 40quid
i had this problem. solved it by cleaning the usb connection of the wheel
thanks for help
Its the driver for me,i installed an old driver...and it worked fine
Hi dude what driver did you install my wheel works but I get no force feedback
Si è rotta la rotella cosa posso fare
My dfgt has a stripped screw
This Tutorial didn't work for me, i don't know what to do, The Calibration doesn't work and the Logo is blinking all the time
Try to clean the optical sensor
@@juampemaineri_ ill try this later
@@juampemaineri_ where is it located
03:42 YEAH SCREW THAT!!
you don't need a pop filter if you're wearing a mask lol
True lmao
It's screwed