I got my certifications, while stationed in West Germany back in the mid 80's. Our club had both types of 1st stages and tanks. The majority of our divers preferred the DIN and we did have the adapters if needed. While traveling I always took the adapter with me.
Great video. Might also be worth mentioning DIN conversion kits. So a diver who initially buys a yoke reg and changes their mind and now wants DIN can purchase a DIN conversion kit and have their LDS install, making their yoke reg a DIN. They are reasonably priced except for Aqualung due to their ACD. They tend to run a bit more than everyone else. For what it's worth, I'm 100% on Team DIN.
Thank you on making it MORE clearer to get a DIN style regulator…….I always thought that one day I might be in Europe somewhere Diving…and DIN is the choice to go with…..
Just wondering what area do you dive mostly? I have been away from diving for some time and am wondering what is most common now for my son who is interested in diving. I have both types of tanks and just switched my first stage between yoke and din depending on what I was diving. It isn't that big a deal to switch them out. Buying a reg for my son I may as well get what is most commonly used in the U.S. and Caribbean.
I remember back in the early 90's when DIN came out in the U.S. It was required for the higher pressure (HP) tanks. You could get steel HP80's and HP100's and fill up to 4000psi. The dive shop I taught at sold the tanks and first stages, and we had one air whip on the system for HP (we could fill to 4000psi). Most of the diver boats were 3000 psi max fill and you would need to bring your own fill adapter. Otherwise when you traveled to Caribbean, South Pacific you were stuck with using a 3000psi Aluminum 80 or Steel 72 2250 psi tank. I'm sure all these years later the steel HP tanks and DIN are more available. But good video. I knew a lot of people who went to the HP systems for more air time. I liked the steel 80 HP tanks (tried one a few times) because they remained negatively buoyant, thus less weight on the belt. Otherwise I dove with steel 72's (I had great air consumption efficiency then when I was teaching). Sometimes I would use a steel 90 (lower pressure) for extra time with students (just in case). Again, very good video.
I just got DIN 300. I had no idea what i was buying. Just recommendations for those that know their stuff. I would have just used what i was trained with. Thank goodness for experienced divers sharing their knowledge with us inexperienced sand churning newbies 🙏👍🫶
Llevo buceando mas de 40 años, especialmente en cuevas. Empecé a bucear con sistema INT y con frecuencia fallaba la junta torica y se producia una importante y peligrosa perdida de aire. A los pocos años cambié al sistema DIN, a 200 y 300 atmosferas, y nunca mas he tenido un fallo de la junta del regulador. El único riesgo existe si la junta del regulador se ha salido y conectas el regulador sin junta. Pero te daras cuenta inmediatamente en cuanto abras el grifo. Una vez atornillado correctamente con la junta en su sitio el regulador no falla nunca. Vendí o modifiqué todos mis reguladores INT y ahora solamente uso DIN.
I am DIN as this a standard in Europe. There is one more advantage of DIN - the gasket is on the regulator so does not get exposed to elements and UV that degrades it easily on INT valve tanks.
Divers beware of adapters! I have an Apex regulator with a DIN connection. I bought an adapter for Yoke imagining I that would cover dives anywhere in the world. However, once I arrived at my destination the screw of the adapter’s knob was too short to hold the cylinder Yoke valve in place. The only reason I didn’t lose my dives was because there were spare regulators in the boat and we changed the screw on my adapter to a regular Yoke one. My theory why the manufacturer would have such a short screw is to accommodate for larger cylinder valves (I believe I’ve seen them around). Anyway, always be sure to test new gear and ask your destiny diving operation what pattern of cylinders they use.
I understand it's going to take some time before all Yoke valves are replaced by DIN, but DIN clearly is the future. The more people buy DIN, the more dive centers will convert over to DIN valves. The biggest advantage of DIN, which was not mentioned in the video, is that with DIN the o-ring can't slip. Yoke clamps onto the o-ring in the tank valve. If that o-ring is dislodged while you're sliding your regulator over it, or if that o-ring is damaged, that o-ring can pop out of the groove it sits in, and cause a major leak. With the encapsulated o-ring of the DIN regulator, there's no chance of dislodging it when screwing it into the valve, and a damaged o-ring will still provide a decent seal and the leak won't be as catastrophic. When buying a new regulator, you really should get a DIN regulator. Even when your dive center still only uses Yoke valves. Investing in old technology is generally not a good idea.
I don't know if it's a US slang term for them but the lower pressure DIN regulator fitment is certified for use up to 232 Bar, not 200. The USA certifies yoke connections up to 207 Bar (3000 psi) although outside the US it is usually 232 Bar like the DIN. I use DIN on all my gear for all the reasons you mention but I do take an adaptor with me to the US if I'm just going to be doing single tank resort type diving. I'm sure DIN will eventually become universal and the yoke will go the way of the old J-valve.
You can’t mix up threads. A 300b din regulator fits a 200b valve perfectly. A 200b regulator will fit a 300b valve but does not seal and blows of air. Most din regs sold in Europe are 300b and being used in 200/232b valves.
@@ivoryjohnson4662 ahhh that way. Just be a bit carefull. The connection surface is big enough to have aproper feel. Using din connectors in fire department ba sets and scuba sets since 1996 and never cross threaded one. Due to the bigger diameter its not “catching” easily cross threaded.
Lets be honest. DIN is safer, lighter, less bulky, more versatile. There really isn't any argument for buying a Yoke regulator. Even if you live in one of the few remaining Yoke regions it makes sense to buy DIN plus Adapter. You can use it everywhere and can use it for sure in vacation.
Do you dive DIN or Yoke? Let us know which you prefer and why!
I have both
I like both
DIN only for more than 25 years. It's simply better. Have not run into a need to use an adapter for over 15 years - everyone uses pro valves now.
I can't believe you're still alive
I got my certifications, while stationed in West Germany back in the mid 80's. Our club had both types of 1st stages and tanks. The majority of our divers preferred the DIN and we did have the adapters if needed. While traveling I always took the adapter with me.
Great video. Might also be worth mentioning DIN conversion kits. So a diver who initially buys a yoke reg and changes their mind and now wants DIN can purchase a DIN conversion kit and have their LDS install, making their yoke reg a DIN. They are reasonably priced except for Aqualung due to their ACD. They tend to run a bit more than everyone else. For what it's worth, I'm 100% on Team DIN.
DIN. I'm in Australia and it's rare. But I always have an adapter with me, so if im hiring it's no issue. Best of both worlds.
Thank you on making it MORE clearer to get a DIN style regulator…….I always thought that one day I might be in Europe somewhere Diving…and DIN is the choice to go with…..
DIN 300 is what I use, and 9 out of 10 operators now have DIN
Just wondering what area do you dive mostly? I have been away from diving for some time and am wondering what is most common now for my son who is interested in diving. I have both types of tanks and just switched my first stage between yoke and din depending on what I was diving. It isn't that big a deal to switch them out. Buying a reg for my son I may as well get what is most commonly used in the U.S. and Caribbean.
A very nice video that covers a lot of details and differences between the two!
I remember back in the early 90's when DIN came out in the U.S. It was required for the higher pressure (HP) tanks. You could get steel HP80's and HP100's and fill up to 4000psi. The dive shop I taught at sold the tanks and first stages, and we had one air whip on the system for HP (we could fill to 4000psi). Most of the diver boats were 3000 psi max fill and you would need to bring your own fill adapter. Otherwise when you traveled to Caribbean, South Pacific you were stuck with using a 3000psi Aluminum 80 or Steel 72 2250 psi tank.
I'm sure all these years later the steel HP tanks and DIN are more available. But good video. I knew a lot of people who went to the HP systems for more air time. I liked the steel 80 HP tanks (tried one a few times) because they remained negatively buoyant, thus less weight on the belt. Otherwise I dove with steel 72's (I had great air consumption efficiency then when I was teaching). Sometimes I would use a steel 90 (lower pressure) for extra time with students (just in case).
Again, very good video.
Thanks for the video, you simply answered a few of my questions.
I just got DIN 300. I had no idea what i was buying. Just recommendations for those that know their stuff. I would have just used what i was trained with. Thank goodness for experienced divers sharing their knowledge with us inexperienced sand churning newbies 🙏👍🫶
Llevo buceando mas de 40 años, especialmente en cuevas. Empecé a bucear con sistema INT y con frecuencia fallaba la junta torica y se producia una importante y peligrosa perdida de aire. A los pocos años cambié al sistema DIN, a 200 y 300 atmosferas, y nunca mas he tenido un fallo de la junta del regulador. El único riesgo existe si la junta del regulador se ha salido y conectas el regulador sin junta. Pero te daras cuenta inmediatamente en cuanto abras el grifo. Una vez atornillado correctamente con la junta en su sitio el regulador no falla nunca. Vendí o modifiqué todos mis reguladores INT y ahora solamente uso DIN.
I am DIN as this a standard in Europe.
There is one more advantage of DIN - the gasket is on the regulator so does not get exposed to elements and UV that degrades it easily on INT valve tanks.
Divers beware of adapters!
I have an Apex regulator with a DIN connection. I bought an adapter for Yoke imagining I that would cover dives anywhere in the world. However, once I arrived at my destination the screw of the adapter’s knob was too short to hold the cylinder Yoke valve in place. The only reason I didn’t lose my dives was because there were spare regulators in the boat and we changed the screw on my adapter to a regular Yoke one. My theory why the manufacturer would have such a short screw is to accommodate for larger cylinder valves (I believe I’ve seen them around). Anyway, always be sure to test new gear and ask your destiny diving operation what pattern of cylinders they use.
Heard DIN is less likely to freeze in cold water.
I understand it's going to take some time before all Yoke valves are replaced by DIN, but DIN clearly is the future. The more people buy DIN, the more dive centers will convert over to DIN valves.
The biggest advantage of DIN, which was not mentioned in the video, is that with DIN the o-ring can't slip. Yoke clamps onto the o-ring in the tank valve. If that o-ring is dislodged while you're sliding your regulator over it, or if that o-ring is damaged, that o-ring can pop out of the groove it sits in, and cause a major leak.
With the encapsulated o-ring of the DIN regulator, there's no chance of dislodging it when screwing it into the valve, and a damaged o-ring will still provide a decent seal and the leak won't be as catastrophic.
When buying a new regulator, you really should get a DIN regulator. Even when your dive center still only uses Yoke valves. Investing in old technology is generally not a good idea.
I don't know if it's a US slang term for them but the lower pressure DIN regulator fitment is certified for use up to 232 Bar, not 200. The USA certifies yoke connections up to 207 Bar (3000 psi) although outside the US it is usually 232 Bar like the DIN. I use DIN on all my gear for all the reasons you mention but I do take an adaptor with me to the US if I'm just going to be doing single tank resort type diving. I'm sure DIN will eventually become universal and the yoke will go the way of the old J-valve.
Really just get DIN. A clamps to convert to yoke on the fly are very cheap and can sit in your "save a dive" kit to rarely/never be used.
I am considering upgrading to a new regulator. I figured a yoke would be my best option, but it does seem to be a bit of a hassle.
A+ info
Din every time.
I would rather it all be DIN , however I can see how things would be messed up if threads get messed up
You can’t mix up threads. A 300b din regulator fits a 200b valve perfectly. A 200b regulator will fit a 300b valve but does not seal and blows of air.
Most din regs sold in Europe are 300b and being used in 200/232b valves.
I was meaning to say new diver cross the threads
@@ivoryjohnson4662 ahhh that way. Just be a bit carefull. The connection surface is big enough to have aproper feel. Using din connectors in fire department ba sets and scuba sets since 1996 and never cross threaded one.
Due to the bigger diameter its not “catching” easily cross threaded.
@@bas6983it's also pretty unusual for a DIN reg to not be DIN300, I've never seen a DIN232 reg.
@@jamiemorris7688 i believe I’ve seen them in the most budget friendly versions.
Din
I never would buy a Yoke Regulator. DIN is just better anyway. Why would i clamp something if i can srew it?
Lets be honest. DIN is safer, lighter, less bulky, more versatile. There really isn't any argument for buying a Yoke regulator. Even if you live in one of the few remaining Yoke regions it makes sense to buy DIN plus Adapter. You can use it everywhere and can use it for sure in vacation.
Din.
Both are the same, except 100g of nonsense metal in Yoke to carry around.