Thorough explanation. Subscribed 👍 I like the way you went back and squeezed out 1/4” on the edges to confirm a tight joint. You are a great teacher 🧰🪚👍
I'm impressed that you built that structure to make the video. I call that going the extra mile. Most people show on-the-job installation which I also learn a lot from. But your vid is top of the mark.
Thanks for the video! I love watching all your videos. We’re a family owned roofing company that has been around since 1992. My dad was a journeyman with the local union since the late 70’s. For years all we did was Hot Mop…so with all the newer products coming out…your videos have been very informative and I’ve learned a lot. Thank you and God Bless!
Nice. I've done torch downs since the 80's. I usually over heat some areas, learned something new today by 45 ing that lap that's under the top. Thanks.
The absolute hardest part of my torchdown roof replacement project is finding someone in Olympia WA that would do the job as perfect as shown in your video.
Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. Don’t settle. If you can’t find anyone I would recommend finding a qualified roofer and have them install whatever product they are most comfortable with. Better to have a properly installed inferior product then a poorly installed superior one.
When you install a torch down roof when you lay your roles as long as everything is prepped right and they overlap everything and bleed it out you'll be fine and after everything's installed people should go back and tie everything in with mocking & fabric to be safe you're up and down seems should get muck fabric any Windows any exhaust pipes chimney saying what you're capping not to mention your gutters and downspout roofing is one of them things you have to be Hands-On and do and it takes years of experience
As a pro torcher I assure you that what you saw in this video can be deceiving for a layman. What you saw was an average, low quality execution of torching that may( ? ) not leak for a relatively short time.
How do you remove silver coating??? I have a flat roof which has some problems was patched and silver coated afterwards. I would like to put a waterproofing membrane over existing roof, but everybody says that silver coat has to be removed for any type of membrane. Pressure washer does not not look as a perfect way. I saw somebody was using torch to burn it (not sure if it is a safe and productive way). Feel absolutely a waste removal of existing roof to install new one. I got rolls of mesh I want to embed with new rubber or hot melt tar (to prevent cracks) and then coat it with reflective silver or other kind. Please, advise!!! Thank you.
Thank you so much for your detailed video. We're trying to decide whether to use torch-on or peel and stick to replace our carport roof which is only slightly sloped. My husband is quite handy and has a torch. However, I've been reading that it takes years of experience to heat a torch-on rood properly, without over or under-heating. You make it look very easy. Do you think this is something that a homeowner should attempt or is it better left to professionals? Our daytime highs are in the mid-nineties, and will soon drop to the mid-eighties. We're in the California high desert area. A peel and stick roof would cost about $280 more and apparently, isn't quite as wind and UV resistant. Any advice on which way to go would be appreciated.
How do you do an inside corner? Mine transitions into the siding. What do you run up on the vertical surface? All 3 layers? Then compression bar? Do you Mount the compression bar underneath the siding on the sheathing if you're redoing the siding anyways or does it have to be on top of the siding? I'm guessing you use OSI quad?
This is a tricky question. I don’t have a video yet on inside corner. However I alway recommend using a z bar for your siding and having the membrane tuck under the Z Bar. We use Chemlink products. Usually M1
Thanks for the video tutorial. I'm repairing our old roof with plans to replace the entire roof in the near future. What material is the underlayment for the torch down cap? Is it felt paper? What do you use to secure the underlayment to the plywood sub? Galvanized nails/screws with washers? Thanks in advance!
Don’t recommend using this product as a balcony or walking on it. On a hot day if you walk on it you will start damaging the material. Use a product rated for traffic.
I have a 30 years old flat roof with small pebbles on it. I need to put a new one because I am also planning to have a solar panels also on the roof. Should I remove the old roof and put a new one or just put two layers of bitumen on top of the old one? Thank you.
Sweep the roof to get the loose Rock Off, you can torch base right down to the substrate, I would recommend taking a flat shovel to level it as much as you can, then sweep, I've done it before you just got to make sure you've got good adhesion on your base layer.
Here in uk we would remove pebbles jet wash roof of ,alow to dry,apply bitumen primer and overlay with torch on ... why remove a roof thats not leaking? Will now be a perfect base for your torch on roof
If I understood correctly you are asking about the laps. That is not a product. Rather when we heat up the granules they are imbedded in the role allowing the bitumen/ tar to come to the surface.
Lol, he really does. However much I try to get him to wear gloves he hates it. I've bought different types of gloves trying to find something thats comfortable with no luck.
i dont' think i've ever seen anyone torch the seams separately from the field... and the cutting of the 45 angle seems completely unproductive since you're heating the part that overlaps to remove the granules anyway
Just cause you haven't seen it doesn't mean it can't or shouldn't be done, some of our guys do it this way, some of them do the seams at the same time.
No man this all messed up nail base is not strong good for no ice roofers tho, torch down should be solid bled all around and firm, no cut flaps ( spidercut) for drains there should be a solid bleed out and there should be only a few nails around scuppers in the correct places the cap should be de granulated at 6" at the base of the flashing and please don't put m1 or caulking on the drain holes and block the water flow that is meant to catch the leaves
I don't know maaaan, for whom you made this video? Why do you start it at the end and leaving out most important aspects of theory of why you have ready cap already layed there where it is done, etc... Besides, I know this Polyglass one of the most dificult to work with. I am sure not any of your 'welding' is done right. This worker is typical average, low quality torcher. Can't even be much better without wearing a leather glove! If you used coolroof cap you should have removed end over lap layer instead of after heat and not embed granuals. If you used regular cap it is better to weld both layer at the same time, no need to embed granuals. Of course to do this takes a lot of practice. So, even though you have a bead of hot coming out by the seams it does not guarantee a perfect water tight bond. If I have to grade this work on a zero to ten scale I could not give it a better than 5.5 score and that is only in case that your work does not leak at least for a year !
Thanks for watching! Let me know if this video was helpful, and what other tutorials you'd like to see for torch down roofing!
Thorough explanation.
Subscribed 👍
I like the way you went back and squeezed out 1/4” on the edges to confirm a tight joint.
You are a great teacher 🧰🪚👍
Everything about this video is wrong.😂😂😂 what a gong show.
I'm impressed that you built that structure to make the video. I call that going the extra mile. Most people show on-the-job installation which I also learn a lot from. But your vid is top of the mark.
Thank you, we actually built these structures for training purposes.
He did it to pass his torch down class. It’s a requirement. He’s smart to make a video out of it, but it’s required.
I am trying to educate myself in preparation for getting our torch on roof replaced. This video was very helpful. Thank you.
Good luck!
Thanks for the video!
I love watching all your videos. We’re a family owned roofing company that has been around since 1992. My dad was a journeyman with the local union since the late 70’s. For years all we did was Hot Mop…so with all the newer products coming out…your videos have been very informative and I’ve learned a lot.
Thank you and God Bless!
Thank you for watching and your support, if you approve of my work bring a roger yourself I consider that a huge complement.
Nice. I've done torch downs since the 80's. I usually over heat some areas, learned something new today by 45 ing that lap that's under the top. Thanks.
Love it, I always feel the same, always something new I can learn to improve my craft
This was superbly done. Very professional and thorough. Exactly what I needed!
Glad it helped!
This is a Master class. You are very good teacher. I like your video 👍👍👍👍
Thank you. I am not sure about Master, but I do my best.
The absolute hardest part of my torchdown roof replacement project is finding someone in Olympia WA that would do the job as perfect as shown in your video.
Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. Don’t settle. If you can’t find anyone I would recommend finding a qualified roofer and have them install whatever product they are most comfortable with. Better to have a properly installed inferior product then a poorly installed superior one.
I’m in Portland. If you still need someone to install that at a professional level I’m here bud
When you install a torch down roof when you lay your roles as long as everything is prepped right and they overlap everything and bleed it out you'll be fine and after everything's installed people should go back and tie everything in with mocking & fabric to be safe you're up and down seems should get muck fabric any Windows any exhaust pipes chimney saying what you're capping not to mention your gutters and downspout roofing is one of them things you have to be Hands-On and do and it takes years of experience
As a pro torcher I assure you that what you saw in this video can be deceiving for a layman. What you saw was an average, low quality execution of torching that may( ? ) not leak for a relatively short time.
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you!
Thank you so much For your easy to understand explanation. very professional unreliable method.
Thanks
what's unreliable method mean?
I've built a parapet and learned Soo much from your video
Glad to hear
Very nice a lot of good information in this video thank you !
My pleasure, thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing, great technique.👍
My pleasure!
Thank you for your video, I like the granulated seams as well!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing professional skills!
My pleasure!
Awesome video, Great instruction and I like your 2 step method. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
@@RoofRepairSpecialist do you have any tip or video on how to wrap an outside corner and a circular shape like a vent base using rubber 😉👍🏽
Great job, Thanks
Great video thank you 🙏
You are welcome! 🙏
Great video guys!
Thank you
Excellent and very informative video A+
Glad it was helpful!
How do you remove silver coating???
I have a flat roof which has some problems was patched and silver coated afterwards. I would like to put a waterproofing membrane over existing roof, but everybody says that silver coat has to be removed for any type of membrane. Pressure washer does not not look as a perfect way. I saw somebody was using torch to burn it (not sure if it is a safe and productive way). Feel absolutely a waste removal of existing roof to install new one.
I got rolls of mesh I want to embed with new rubber or hot melt tar (to prevent cracks) and then coat it with reflective silver or other kind.
Please, advise!!!
Thank you.
Thank you for the video Nice job.
You bet
I live in North Wales in the UK. I plan to Felt the flat roof on a garden room. I hope there are suppliers that can provide this type of felt product.
IKO
Good video viejo
Thank you so much for your detailed video. We're trying to decide whether to use torch-on or peel and stick to replace our carport roof which is only slightly sloped. My husband is quite handy and has a torch. However, I've been reading that it takes years of experience to heat a torch-on rood properly, without over or under-heating. You make it look very easy. Do you think this is something that a homeowner should attempt or is it better left to professionals? Our daytime highs are in the mid-nineties, and will soon drop to the mid-eighties. We're in the California high desert area. A peel and stick roof would cost about $280 more and apparently, isn't quite as wind and UV resistant. Any advice on which way to go would be appreciated.
Really depends on the slope of your roof, if it’s properly sloped without any ponding areas use self adhered. If you have any ponding areas use torch.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Thank you so much for your helpful reply!
How do you do an inside corner? Mine transitions into the siding. What do you run up on the vertical surface? All 3 layers? Then compression bar? Do you Mount the compression bar underneath the siding on the sheathing if you're redoing the siding anyways or does it have to be on top of the siding? I'm guessing you use OSI quad?
This is a tricky question. I don’t have a video yet on inside corner. However I alway recommend using a z bar for your siding and having the membrane tuck under the Z Bar. We use Chemlink products. Usually M1
I have to replace a scupper box...can you put torch down over Gaco coating ?? Will it seal ??
No, that gets complicated especially if it’s silicone. You should just use silicone to install the new scupper
I will make video lol this guy is a great seller
Great and very helpful video. Can this torch on roof being painted and sealed? Like can I paint it white?
Yes, most common options are an acrylic or silicone
is there a brand that you recommand? @@RoofRepairSpecialist
Depending on where you are and what’s available, a few solid brands are; APOC, polyglass, ASC, Gaco
thank you@@RoofRepairSpecialist
Thanks for the video tutorial. I'm repairing our old roof with plans to replace the entire roof in the near future. What material is the underlayment for the torch down cap? Is it felt paper? What do you use to secure the underlayment to the plywood sub? Galvanized nails/screws with washers? Thanks in advance!
My favorite base is polyglass elastobase V. Secured using ring shank galvanized metal cap nails
Do you have a video about adding a mid ply or.not for needs or how to do it?
No I don’t believe so. Do you think that would be useful
Great info!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much Fourier
Your welcome.
Great videos
Glad you like them!
What do you do when the roll starts to run off away or towards the seam?
thank you, much very helpful.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for a great video!
My pleasure!
how about installing a corner scupper then tying the roofing in
Watch my video on scupper
Question maybe it’s just your sample roof but what do you do on opposite side of the over lap with tar strip.
There’s no tar strip on that side.
It’s the same idea, not sure if I have a video specifically on that. Take a look at the other videos, should be on there
@@RoofRepairSpecialist I'll check it out. You guys are looking at a job I have next friday.👍👍
Can this be installed on top of a EPDM roof ?
Not sure, I’m assuming so. You should be able to nail the base through edpm
is this a finished project or can you add something more comfortable to walk on if you've used it on a bedroom balcony ?
Don’t recommend using this product as a balcony or walking on it. On a hot day if you walk on it you will start damaging the material. Use a product rated for traffic.
wouldn't primer work well on the overlapped granules? Great point in burning them though
Definitely, both work
I like using primer.
No need to degranulate… 65 year flat roofing and never had any problems stick in to mineral.
I have a 30 years old flat roof with small pebbles on it. I need to put a new one because I am also planning to have a solar panels also on the roof. Should I remove the old roof and put a new one or just put two layers of bitumen on top of the old one? Thank you.
Removing would definitely be your best option.
Sweep the roof to get the loose Rock Off, you can torch base right down to the substrate, I would recommend taking a flat shovel to level it as much as you can, then sweep, I've done it before you just got to make sure you've got good adhesion on your base layer.
3 layers is code , then you need to remove but of i think always better to start fresh
Here in uk we would remove pebbles jet wash roof of ,alow to dry,apply bitumen primer and overlay with torch on ... why remove a roof thats not leaking? Will now be a perfect base for your torch on roof
So you pressure wash all the granules off? that is interesting. I have never seen that here, however I do see the value in it.
Instead of pressure washing just buy double the smooth. Essentially same thing
what material you use about 7:15 in the video? thanks
If I understood correctly you are asking about the laps. That is not a product. Rather when we heat up the granules they are imbedded in the role allowing the bitumen/ tar to come to the surface.
Where I can buy polyglass membranes in Los Angeles
JB wholesale roofing supply
Are this products energy start rated?
The energy star product is called PolyFresko
Nice.
Thanks!
hi . where to buy this granules?
We get them from our local roofing supplier.
Why not primer instead of melting the granules off?? Primer would integrate bitumen into new granules
No reason both work and we use both methods
Holle sir
I need job waterproofing Mambrn
Sorry, not sure I understand
@@RoofRepairSpecialistI’m from india I want to instal our cement porch ..what’s warranty that’s collr and any other problm
youre roofer has hands of steel
Lol, he really does. However much I try to get him to wear gloves he hates it. I've bought different types of gloves trying to find something thats comfortable with no luck.
i dont' think i've ever seen anyone torch the seams separately from the field... and the cutting of the 45 angle seems completely unproductive since you're heating the part that overlaps to remove the granules anyway
Just cause you haven't seen it doesn't mean it can't or shouldn't be done, some of our guys do it this way, some of them do the seams at the same time.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist don't understand the point of your comment... i didn't say it can't or shouldn't be done, just said i've never seen it that way
That 45 degree angle is much better seal
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No man this all messed up nail base is not strong good for no ice roofers tho, torch down should be solid bled all around and firm, no cut flaps ( spidercut) for drains there should be a solid bleed out and there should be only a few nails around scuppers in the correct places the cap should be de granulated at 6" at the base of the flashing and please don't put m1 or caulking on the drain holes and block the water flow that is meant to catch the leaves
Вы сами сделали кучу ошибок.
Polyglass is absolute trash, it’s the cheapest material on the market. Only cheap jacks use polyglass, cap nails all throughout the flashings, 😂😂😂😂😂
Sounds like you really know what your talking about😂
Don't tell my clients- I've installed a bunch of it, no problems. Oh, and that's "Mister jack" to you...
RIP your roofing skill
What skills?
I don't know maaaan, for whom you made this video? Why do you start it at the end and leaving out most important aspects of theory of why you have ready cap already layed there where it is done, etc... Besides, I know this Polyglass one of the most dificult to work with. I am sure not any of your 'welding' is done right. This worker is typical average, low quality torcher. Can't even be much better without wearing a leather glove! If you used coolroof cap you should have removed end over lap layer instead of after heat and not embed granuals. If you used regular cap it is better to weld both layer at the same time, no need to embed granuals. Of course to do this takes a lot of practice. So, even though you have a bead of hot coming out by the seams it does not guarantee a perfect water tight bond. If I have to grade this work on a zero to ten scale I could not give it a better than 5.5 score and that is only in case that your work does not leak at least for a year !
I think I deserve a 7/10, I’ll take a C nothing less, lol. The life story you just wrote deserves a 10/10 though
thnx for the video but what is under the torch roof?
Different options, usually what’s called a glass base. We prefer polyglass elastobase
@@RoofRepairSpecialist I want to buy my first torch. What should I get and where can I buy one?