I had mineral marks like that on my Defender sliding windows. No glass cleaner worked. I ended up using a mild rubbing compound (more like a polishing compound) and lots of elbow grease. Took me a long time and I certainly wouldn't have wanted to pay a shop for their time to do it. ;)
@@BritannicaRestorations I happened to watch something the other day with a similar problem with their glass. I forget now what it was, but, the solution that worked for them was to soak the glass overnight in vinegar. Also, karcher sell a descaler in their pro range apparently. Be interested in the solution you find. Thought I'd pop back to this video as I thought of this RR when I saw the glass in the other. Toodle pip.
I have a product here made for removing scale on glass... Glass and Porcelain Scale Remover... I have used it on Automotive glass that has the same type of marks as that.. works beautifully. I found wire wood would not remove it very well
@@BritannicaRestorations Yes, and what we had was the same... the product is acid based, with a form of cutting compound in a slurry.. did need a lot of elbow grease on some deposits/etchings, but works... Unfortunately for those deposits, there seems to be no easy way around the polishing process. However a good polishing product is important..
G'Day Mike. Matey those marks on the glass look a lot like the spots we get over here on our glass from Bore Water (reticulation hard ground water). Its made by Calcium and Lime Salts and over time if left to dry out will sort of etch the glass a fraction. A real bugger to get off, normal glass cleaner wont do diddly to them. Its so bad over here that a company produces a product called CLR Cleaner (Calcium - Lime Salts - Rust) just for this purpose. Its an acid based product and as acid does not effect glass its great at getting these spots off. So what I suggest is first just try a small dab of a rust converter if you have any that's a mild acid based liquid like say Ranex on a small section and see if it works, save a lot of grief if it does. Best I can think off. www.bondall.com/wp-content/uploads/RanexRustbuster.pdf
The thing is the marks are etched into the glass - we have CLR here and I will give it a go but I cannot see it getting the marks out without compounding
@@BritannicaRestorations Yeah I know it seems silly and even here those spots are etched in (minute little dips) but since its most likely the calcium/salts that you can actually see (the White dot bit), getting that removed will make it look like its just normal glass. It wont smooth it out and the etched little dimples will still be left behind but will be "clean" so should look as "clear as glass!" :D
Have experience of clients who had fine sprinkler systems on their properties when I worked in Spain...A REAL problem once the car gets wet and then dried in warm weather. Try 3000 Euros to have the marks polished out from the paint and glass...Of course, yours truly did mention the possible issue but was 'rebuffed' (no pun intended) but suddenly I am getting instructed to organise that all the cars have the same treatment and....the sprinkler system changed to an 'in ground' system...Once its on there it won't come out unless professionally cleaned and machine polished.
This is real light etching and not deposits - it does buff out but I have a 6 inch polisher attachment coming and more compound = best do it now before I fit the glass
Hi Mike:- very strange those marks on the glass, almost as if it was parked nearby next to some industrial cleaning process and one side got covered. Obviously the original paintwork was so poor, not something that you would notice.
Hi Mike. Love the channel, have posted before. But this time about the window marking. Last year I built a shed, and had some commercial grade windows to install on the shed. The glass is a very nice commercial grade 6mm, etc. high quality Aluminium frame. But the glass itself is stained just like this RR. Thought about doing the polish routine too, but it's a job that can wait. Windows were sitting outside for a good 10+ years too. Only thing I can think of why they stained that way is acid rain too. My windows are 2.5m long, 3 panes per frame. Weird thing is the difference between some panes relative to others. Two panes next to each other have marked differences in the staining, but all got stained. Anyhow, interesting to see it on this RR too.
Guessing what that crud is... could it be epoxy primer residue that's attached itself to water spots on the glass? That would be hard to remove... I dunno.
Hello, thanks for the video, do you by any chance know the 1994 Range Rover Classic front window glass the same as the Discovery around those years? Thanks
Huge disappointment. I was looking forward to you showing how to remove that door lock button surround. I always end breaking it. Luckily they are as cheap as chips 😂. Top tip for cleaning the glass. Get some 00000 grade wire wool and give it a good rub with that. Must be 00000 grade, anything else will mark the glass.
I did a video on Defender doors a while back and didn't want to repeat, But using one of these britrest.com/product/dismantling-tool You can force it under the bottom of the escutcheon and tap it vertically and it will pop off
I have been looking at some of your old video's on rebuilding defender doors i have 2 of the bugger's to fix it's been standing a few years .Any way the galvanized door skin you used did you get it from a company in Sutton Coldfield UK as i found them for £98 .I am trying to empty the fuel tank at the moment new tank 3 years ago no drain plug ho well do this or go inside and have to take too the wife!! The smell of diesel not so bad really.🤣🤣🤣
Wire wool will not take the marks out - it is like the glass has been acid etched -it will grind out - but I need to get a bigger polisher - I was going to send the glass to a shop - but they are all closed
Hi Mike. I have had staining on glass. My sprinklers fed from a borehole would spray the car. Eventually a deposit was left
Fantastic video Mike appreciate it
Glad you enjoyed it
hi mike.im still fiddling with my disco 3 suspension relay!! very helpful thanks.
Glad it helped!
I had mineral marks like that on my Defender sliding windows. No glass cleaner worked. I ended up using a mild rubbing compound (more like a polishing compound) and lots of elbow grease. Took me a long time and I certainly wouldn't have wanted to pay a shop for their time to do it. ;)
Braso aka brass cleaner also works well and afterwards a clean with old newspaper and methalated spirrits
These marks are deep and not on the surface - wish they came out better on video!
@@BritannicaRestorations I happened to watch something the other day with a similar problem with their glass. I forget now what it was, but, the solution that worked for them was to soak the glass overnight in vinegar. Also, karcher sell a descaler in their pro range apparently. Be interested in the solution you find. Thought I'd pop back to this video as I thought of this RR when I saw the glass in the other. Toodle pip.
I have a product here made for removing scale on glass... Glass and Porcelain Scale Remover... I have used it on Automotive glass that has the same type of marks as that.. works beautifully. I found wire wood would not remove it very well
seems to be etched in the glass
@@BritannicaRestorations Yes, and what we had was the same... the product is acid based, with a form of cutting compound in a slurry.. did need a lot of elbow grease on some deposits/etchings, but works... Unfortunately for those deposits, there seems to be no easy way around the polishing process. However a good polishing product is important..
I have ordered a professional polishing kit with a 6 inch pad for my orbital sander - I will see how this goes
@@BritannicaRestorations Hopefully that makes it easier for you...
G'Day Mike.
Matey those marks on the glass look a lot like the spots we get over here on our glass from Bore Water (reticulation hard ground water). Its made by Calcium and Lime Salts and over time if left to dry out will sort of etch the glass a fraction. A real bugger to get off, normal glass cleaner wont do diddly to them. Its so bad over here that a company produces a product called CLR Cleaner (Calcium - Lime Salts - Rust) just for this purpose. Its an acid based product and as acid does not effect glass its great at getting these spots off. So what I suggest is first just try a small dab of a rust converter if you have any that's a mild acid based liquid like say Ranex on a small section and see if it works, save a lot of grief if it does.
Best I can think off.
www.bondall.com/wp-content/uploads/RanexRustbuster.pdf
The thing is the marks are etched into the glass - we have CLR here and I will give it a go but I cannot see it getting the marks out without compounding
@@BritannicaRestorations Yeah I know it seems silly and even here those spots are etched in (minute little dips) but since its most likely the calcium/salts that you can actually see (the White dot bit), getting that removed will make it look like its just normal glass. It wont smooth it out and the etched little dimples will still be left behind but will be "clean" so should look as "clear as glass!" :D
Have experience of clients who had fine sprinkler systems on their properties when I worked in Spain...A REAL problem once the car gets wet and then dried in warm weather. Try 3000 Euros to have the marks polished out from the paint and glass...Of course, yours truly did mention the possible issue but was 'rebuffed' (no pun intended) but suddenly I am getting instructed to organise that all the cars have the same treatment and....the sprinkler system changed to an 'in ground' system...Once its on there it won't come out unless professionally cleaned and machine polished.
This is real light etching and not deposits - it does buff out but I have a 6 inch polisher attachment coming and more compound = best do it now before I fit the glass
Tried the CLR and didn't work
Hi Mike:- very strange those marks on the glass, almost as if it was parked nearby next to some industrial cleaning process and one side got covered. Obviously the original paintwork was so poor, not something that you would notice.
Yes is is not a deposit, more like an etching
Time for a beer
Hi Mike. Love the channel, have posted before. But this time about the window marking. Last year I built a shed, and had some commercial grade windows to install on the shed. The glass is a very nice commercial grade 6mm, etc. high quality Aluminium frame. But the glass itself is stained just like this RR. Thought about doing the polish routine too, but it's a job that can wait. Windows were sitting outside for a good 10+ years too. Only thing I can think of why they stained that way is acid rain too. My windows are 2.5m long, 3 panes per frame. Weird thing is the difference between some panes relative to others. Two panes next to each other have marked differences in the staining, but all got stained. Anyhow, interesting to see it on this RR too.
I wonder why it is only on the drivers side?
Guessing what that crud is... could it be epoxy primer residue that's attached itself to water spots on the glass? That would be hard to remove... I dunno.
It is in the glass like etching - not deep as you can compound it out - but it is going to take a long time!
Hi Mike, do you have a link to the glass polishing kit... need to give the windscreen a freshen up...
This is the kit I bought - the bottle is really small
www.amazon.ca/Glass-Polishing-Types-Windshield-Scratches/dp/B001RAQGXC
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks I've gone with it from UK Amazon thanks
Hello, thanks for the video, do you by any chance know the 1994 Range Rover Classic front window glass the same as the Discovery around those years? Thanks
No idea
You don't happen to have a quarter glass video do you?
Sorry no
Huge disappointment. I was looking forward to you showing how to remove that door lock button surround. I always end breaking it. Luckily they are as cheap as chips 😂. Top tip for cleaning the glass. Get some 00000 grade wire wool and give it a good rub with that. Must be 00000 grade, anything else will mark the glass.
I did a video on Defender doors a while back and didn't want to repeat,
But using one of these
britrest.com/product/dismantling-tool
You can force it under the bottom of the escutcheon and tap it vertically and it will pop off
Britannica Restorations Ltd I have one of your dismantling tools, so next time I will know the secret of the Black Magic box 😂
Gee you've had a sheltered life if this was a huge disappointment! lol
I have been looking at some of your old video's on rebuilding defender doors i have 2 of the bugger's to fix it's been standing a few years .Any way the galvanized door skin you used did you get it from a company in Sutton Coldfield UK as i found them for £98 .I am trying to empty the fuel tank at the moment new tank 3 years ago no drain plug ho well do this or go inside and have to take too the wife!! The smell of diesel not so bad really.🤣🤣🤣
www.sp-4x4.com/
Hello, do you know if the front window of the 1994 Classic is the same as the Discovery around those years? Thanks
not sure
Oops! I paused the video to mention the wire wool to put up my comment, then went back to it and what do you hold up? 🤦♂️
Wire wool will not take the marks out - it is like the glass has been acid etched -it will grind out - but I need to get a bigger polisher - I was going to send the glass to a shop - but they are all closed
Britannica Restorations Ltd That’ll teach me to pause the video to put up a comment 😂