You are a genius, us retro gamers love CRT devices so much. But not many people know how to repair these ancient devices anymore, and you helped a lot of people.
Good timing. Starting work on G07-CBO, this week. Cool to see start to finish in real time. Very helpful video for an idiot/inexperienced hobbyist like myself.
I often had the rubber wedges corrode / react, with the scan coils which burns and shorts the scan coils. Good practice is to remove each wedge and fit a piece of electrical tape and refit wedges, probably won’t need to adjust convergence etc and saves the scan coils.
Pre watch comment... I was LITERALLY gonna ask on your last vid if you'd ever be down to do a long format no edit start to end rebuild JUST like this and didn't wanna bother you lol. I didn't know you were an amateur psychic too Mike! Gonna dig in and watch, thanks again as always sir! :)
Post video comment time lol. That was AWESOME Mike!! PERFECT! So nice to have a better feel for how a more "standard" rebuild is. I love the mystery and trying to figure out things with you when down a rabbit hole but even this I felt was great! Also I'd like to add I agree with you about changing working parts anymore, 3 words due it "made in China (or P R C like we won't figure that out DUH). Too many subpar quality parts nowadays. Anyways, always appreciate the videos and info my friend, thanks again as always! :)
Help Mike 😮 I’ve got a G07-CBO that won’t sync. After much inspection I found a transistor with broken legs at X305. The part is stamped c454 and the schematic says it’s a 2sc454c or 2sc1685 Amazon has a 20 pack of “2sc1815gr / 2sc1815 transistor TO-92 50v 150ma 400mw” Is this the same thing? I’ve watched tons of your videos but haven’t seen you change out one of these transistors before. Thanks 🙏
Long time sub and I’ve never asked a troubleshooting question until now! My Golden tee worked and played great, only problem it was missing the color red. Replaced transistor on neck board and now I have too much red and retrace lines and turning the red cutoff/red drive don’t do shit. What’s my next move?!
All of one color with no retrace lines = shorted transistor. All of one color WITH retrace lines equals shorted color gun in the tube. Sounds like you have a tube issue unfortunately. Remove the transistor and see if the red goes away. If yes, it’s something with the transistor. Maybe the incorrect one or installed backwards? If not, then it’s the tube.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thanks for the quick reply! I took out the transistor and I’m back to just having green and blue. Can I possibly email you a pic of the transistor and you tell me if it’s a correct replacement? Thanks for any and all help.
You’re welcome. What monitor is it? Try swapping the transistor into the blue or green position. If the same problem arises but the image is all blue or green, then it’s the wrong transistor. If not it’s likely something on the neckboard or possibly still a tube issue. The part number should be on the transistor.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair 25K 7191 the replacement I put in was a TZ1034 but now looking at the one that was previously in it it says C3782. So I take it that’s the problem lol
Hello, Mike. I'm in KC and desperate for any help in getting my toshiba console back up and running. I'm less than an amateur And would probably kill myself trying to fix it. Some folks on reddit said you're within a couple hour drive. Would you be willing to have a look at this big boy if I brought it to you? I love the TV and would like it preserved. Thanks!
Toshiba CX35D81. Estate sale find. Worked for 2-3 hours then shut off. Will degauss and generate static after capacitors are discharged but then fades. I really like the big boy and would do whatever I can to get er going again. Any help is appreciated! I'm getting nowhere locally@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair @@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair
This…. www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/television-width-coil-alignment-and-adjustment-tool-set-6-piece-set And this…. www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/g07-width-coil-alignment-tool/
Hello man, I have a question that's unrelated to this video, it's an issue I'm having with my Suzo-Happ LCD arcade monitor, idk if you also have one, or have experienced this issue ever with any lcd display, but my lcd display seems to be having a red color issue. It's running an arcadesd pcb and running vga, the color red seems to take over the color black and no adjustments I've made have worked. The PCB is fine since I've tried it on another monitor, and the monitor itself is fine because the OSD is perfectly normal, and the vga cable is fine, definitely a vga input problem. Any idea or any way to fix this?
Hmm, not off hand without having it in front of me. I’d try giving the monitor a different VGA signal because the OSD can be good but the input signal processing can still be bad.
@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair unfortunately it only has VGA and CGA if you check the museum of the arcade forums, I have a post as ArcadeCited with pictures of the issue
@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair I checked both cga and vga, different pcbs and none of them fixed the problem, have an email address to send pictures of the issue?
You are a genius, us retro gamers love CRT devices so much. But not many people know how to repair these ancient devices anymore, and you helped a lot of people.
Thanks!
42 Years and still working woooow 😱.... new tec less life i wana back to 90s
This was fun to put on while cleaning the workshop!
Good timing. Starting work on G07-CBO, this week. Cool to see start to finish in real time. Very helpful video for an idiot/inexperienced hobbyist like myself.
Love it. I have a go7 with perfect b+ but no raster or image. Tube is good. Adjustment of the FB does nothing. Tube has neck glow and HV
I often had the rubber wedges corrode / react, with the scan coils which burns and shorts the scan coils. Good practice is to remove each wedge and fit a piece of electrical tape and refit wedges, probably won’t need to adjust convergence etc and saves the scan coils.
Yes, but I’ve only ever seen it happen on the XM-1801s. Never seen it happen on any other common monitor.
I think I was the originator of this whole cleaning process! Been doing it for 15 years
Pre watch comment... I was LITERALLY gonna ask on your last vid if you'd ever be down to do a long format no edit start to end rebuild JUST like this and didn't wanna bother you lol. I didn't know you were an amateur psychic too Mike! Gonna dig in and watch, thanks again as always sir! :)
I look forward to these videos like I did Saturday Morning Cartoons when I was a kid 😁❤️
Post video comment time lol. That was AWESOME Mike!! PERFECT! So nice to have a better feel for how a more "standard" rebuild is. I love the mystery and trying to figure out things with you when down a rabbit hole but even this I felt was great! Also I'd like to add I agree with you about changing working parts anymore, 3 words due it "made in China (or P R C like we won't figure that out DUH). Too many subpar quality parts nowadays. Anyways, always appreciate the videos and info my friend, thanks again as always! :)
Thanks!
Smeggin awesome work Mike !
Thanks!
5:27 Squeeze and move sidewards and then lift. That causes that one of the legs comes out
You could put the neck board in a Ziplock bag to help keep it dry.
True. I was just lazy.
Wash that damn thing with ‘simple green’ discharge the tube and all other voltages. Then rinse it with a garden hose!
Help Mike 😮 I’ve got a G07-CBO that won’t sync. After much inspection I found a transistor with broken legs at X305. The part is stamped c454 and the schematic says it’s a 2sc454c or 2sc1685
Amazon has a 20 pack of “2sc1815gr / 2sc1815 transistor TO-92 50v 150ma 400mw”
Is this the same thing? I’ve watched tons of your videos but haven’t seen you change out one of these transistors before.
Thanks 🙏
Here ya go...
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/integrated-circuits/transistors/2sc1685/
Long time sub and I’ve never asked a troubleshooting question until now! My Golden tee worked and played great, only problem it was missing the color red. Replaced transistor on neck board and now I have too much red and retrace lines and turning the red cutoff/red drive don’t do shit. What’s my next move?!
All of one color with no retrace lines = shorted transistor. All of one color WITH retrace lines equals shorted color gun in the tube. Sounds like you have a tube issue unfortunately. Remove the transistor and see if the red goes away. If yes, it’s something with the transistor. Maybe the incorrect one or installed backwards? If not, then it’s the tube.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thanks for the quick reply! I took out the transistor and I’m back to just having green and blue. Can I possibly email you a pic of the transistor and you tell me if it’s a correct replacement? Thanks for any and all help.
You’re welcome. What monitor is it? Try swapping the transistor into the blue or green position. If the same problem arises but the image is all blue or green, then it’s the wrong transistor. If not it’s likely something on the neckboard or possibly still a tube issue. The part number should be on the transistor.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair 25K 7191 the replacement I put in was a TZ1034 but now looking at the one that was previously in it it says C3782. So I take it that’s the problem lol
Yes. Pretty sure the 1034 is for a G07.
I have been putting my PCBs in the oven on low for an hour or two after washing them to evaporate the water. Is this a bad practice?
No, that’s works too,
Hello, Mike. I'm in KC and desperate for any help in getting my toshiba console back up and running. I'm less than an amateur And would probably kill myself trying to fix it. Some folks on reddit said you're within a couple hour drive. Would you be willing to have a look at this big boy if I brought it to you? I love the TV and would like it preserved. Thanks!
I’m down in Wichita but I don’t really work on console TVs. Without knowing more about it (model number, etc), I can’t say.
Toshiba CX35D81. Estate sale find. Worked for 2-3 hours then shut off. Will degauss and generate static after capacitors are discharged but then fades. I really like the big boy and would do whatever I can to get er going again. Any help is appreciated! I'm getting nowhere locally@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair @@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair
Hi do you have some information regarding WG k7902
I have dozens of K7000 videos.
Thanks, i didnt understand that it was the same. Your videos have made me confident enough to try my hand at troubleshooting.
You’re welcome. Great!
Mike, what do you use as an adjustment tool?
This….
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/television-width-coil-alignment-and-adjustment-tool-set-6-piece-set
And this….
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/g07-width-coil-alignment-tool/
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair The one you discharged the monitor with?
Not sure what you mean. It’s a screwdriver and an alligator clip.
Hello man, I have a question that's unrelated to this video, it's an issue I'm having with my Suzo-Happ LCD arcade monitor, idk if you also have one, or have experienced this issue ever with any lcd display, but my lcd display seems to be having a red color issue.
It's running an arcadesd pcb and running vga, the color red seems to take over the color black and no adjustments I've made have worked. The PCB is fine since I've tried it on another monitor, and the monitor itself is fine because the OSD is perfectly normal, and the vga cable is fine, definitely a vga input problem. Any idea or any way to fix this?
Hmm, not off hand without having it in front of me. I’d try giving the monitor a different VGA signal because the OSD can be good but the input signal processing can still be bad.
@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair unfortunately it only has VGA and CGA if you check the museum of the arcade forums, I have a post as ArcadeCited with pictures of the issue
@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair I checked both cga and vga, different pcbs and none of them fixed the problem, have an email address to send pictures of the issue?
No worries about anode hole with hose?
No. What’s there to worry about?
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepairmight be mistakenly thinking that the hole pierces the tube.
No. The tube is under vacuum.