Everyone! Don't forget some 75w90 to top off the differential when the job is done. Mine suprisingly took 600mL. I don't think that much drained, maybe it was under filled from the factory? It's a 55mm Torx and it is super tight. Be careful not to strip it! (I actually stripped the drain plug, but fortunately got the fill plug loosened).
I want to say that I felt the front differential and possibly the rear on my 2013 LX570 were a little underfilled when I drained them last winter. Or maybe it was the center. Either way, they are all full of Ravenol now! As much work as you do yourself, do yourself a favor (and your family - you will get to spend more time with them as a result), buy and/or ask for some battery-operated tools to help you work on cars. I bought a Husky battery-powered 3/8" ratchet about 8 months ago, my word why did I wait so long. These things make you feel like a professional, they remove any hesitancy in taking all the stuff off you don't want to in order to make removal of another part easier. Seriously, get one. I'm probably moving up to a Milwaukee at some point. Next - get a 1/2" cordless impact gun. Since I have Ridgid batteries/tools, I grabbed an "open box" Ridgid 1/2" impact gun at a scratch and dent store. Talk about a game changer. Sure, air tools are nice to have, but I don't hesitate removing wheels/tires now for a driveway tire rotation. They also come in handy breaking large, crusty bolts loose. Both of these give you serious time back. In the past, without air or battery ratchets, it has taken me a consistent 1:45 to replace spark plugs on my Tundra and Sequoia 5.7L engines. If I had a little primer on the LX570/LC 5.7 Spark Plug #8 and the heater hose bracket, I would have done it in less than an hour with the battery ratchet. There's also much less obstruction in the way of the valve covers on the LC/LX570 than the Tundra/Sequoia. Don't ask me why... Anyway, nice to see some new videos from you.
@@thooks1234 , Amen on the battery ratchet. I have my eye on the new DeWalts, but I don't have the money. I have a nice 1/2" electric impact (that's what I used to remove the 35mm nut), but it's so big I couldn't get it under the rig or within the wheel well to get the 19mm control arm bolts or the sway bar link. I do have an air ratchet (which is significantly cheaper) and is awesome, but when the compressor kicks on, I can't use the video. Lol. So I don't use the air-tools when I'm filming. I need to use the impact to get the lug nuts off. Back in my Rover days, if you used an impact you screwed up the lug nut covers, so I got in the habit of using the breaker bar, but since the Toyota lugs are solid, there isn't a reason to mess around like I was! Thanks for checking out the video, it's kind of a boring one for an LX570 owner! I'm hoping to get some trip vids out before school starts if work can cooperate.
Great video, tackled this today, went pretty smoothly. Will add that the GX470 service manual says "set the snap ring with the opening side facing downwards".
I put mine in facing upwards as @ForgottenWaypoints suggested in the video. After a little more research, everywhere says to have open end facing downward. Is this going to be an issue?
Awesome video! Did this yesterday and it was super slick. Tie rod ends and ball joints don’t agree with me. I was going to have my local shop do this until I saw your video! I found the axles would only come out if I used a pry bar and slightly bent the dust shields. Going back in was tricky too. I ended up lining them up and jamming them into the hole. Tried with a dead blow but that didn’t seem to help. Thanks again!
I did this job twice already to my 08' GX470 and both times I was lucky to not have to hammer the axle back in. I just inserted and lined up the axle by feel and gently bumped it in by hand until it is seated. I am just not comfortable with hammering the axle back in. Also if you jack up the side that you are working on you will lose less fluid as opposed to jacking in the middle.
I was going to watch your video but then right when I started to the boss finally called me back and he told me what to do so thanks anyway the video looks pretty good though thanks
Hi, thanks for the great video! I have a question that the part I’m going to purchase says ABS tone ring is not included, do I need to buy a separate one or I can reuse the one on the old cv axle?
Thanks! I didn't think anyone would be watching this so early. My CV blew that inboard dust seal at 156k miles and 14 years. It blew up on the interstate of all places, on the way to this year's Colorado adventure. Since it wasn't clicking, I figured I had time....so we did Clear Lake, Bollum Pass, and traveled back to Utah on the gimpy CV axle, ordered a NAPA Premium when I got home, and fixed 'er up! It's not a bad job, the LX was harder and I needed to align afterwards (the 100 series doesn't have the bolts on the lower control arm to separate the hub from the arm). Advantage GX/Prado.
Every other how-to video i've watched has you remove that outer tie rod end link which requires a special puller tool. Doing it this way looks much easier. Are there any downsides to not removing that end link in accordance with the manual? Could not removing it cause damage or is it simply so you have more room to work on the axle?
I don't know. I'm about 2-3k miles under my replacement with no issues. I was going to double check my alignment but haven't done it yet. Pulling all of that does make more room, I've done it on other rigs (including my LX). But it would sure suck in the field with a broken CV.
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road? We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
Everyone! Don't forget some 75w90 to top off the differential when the job is done. Mine suprisingly took 600mL. I don't think that much drained, maybe it was under filled from the factory? It's a 55mm Torx and it is super tight. Be careful not to strip it! (I actually stripped the drain plug, but fortunately got the fill plug loosened).
I want to say that I felt the front differential and possibly the rear on my 2013 LX570 were a little underfilled when I drained them last winter. Or maybe it was the center. Either way, they are all full of Ravenol now!
As much work as you do yourself, do yourself a favor (and your family - you will get to spend more time with them as a result), buy and/or ask for some battery-operated tools to help you work on cars. I bought a Husky battery-powered 3/8" ratchet about 8 months ago, my word why did I wait so long. These things make you feel like a professional, they remove any hesitancy in taking all the stuff off you don't want to in order to make removal of another part easier. Seriously, get one. I'm probably moving up to a Milwaukee at some point.
Next - get a 1/2" cordless impact gun. Since I have Ridgid batteries/tools, I grabbed an "open box" Ridgid 1/2" impact gun at a scratch and dent store. Talk about a game changer. Sure, air tools are nice to have, but I don't hesitate removing wheels/tires now for a driveway tire rotation. They also come in handy breaking large, crusty bolts loose.
Both of these give you serious time back. In the past, without air or battery ratchets, it has taken me a consistent 1:45 to replace spark plugs on my Tundra and Sequoia 5.7L engines. If I had a little primer on the LX570/LC 5.7 Spark Plug #8 and the heater hose bracket, I would have done it in less than an hour with the battery ratchet. There's also much less obstruction in the way of the valve covers on the LC/LX570 than the Tundra/Sequoia. Don't ask me why...
Anyway, nice to see some new videos from you.
@@thooks1234 , Amen on the battery ratchet. I have my eye on the new DeWalts, but I don't have the money. I have a nice 1/2" electric impact (that's what I used to remove the 35mm nut), but it's so big I couldn't get it under the rig or within the wheel well to get the 19mm control arm bolts or the sway bar link.
I do have an air ratchet (which is significantly cheaper) and is awesome, but when the compressor kicks on, I can't use the video. Lol. So I don't use the air-tools when I'm filming.
I need to use the impact to get the lug nuts off. Back in my Rover days, if you used an impact you screwed up the lug nut covers, so I got in the habit of using the breaker bar, but since the Toyota lugs are solid, there isn't a reason to mess around like I was!
Thanks for checking out the video, it's kind of a boring one for an LX570 owner! I'm hoping to get some trip vids out before school starts if work can cooperate.
The front differential drain nut is copper alloy and tends to fuse to the differential. Use a torch to heat it and it will come out with no issues.
@@glideronthemoon , That's good to know! I'll have to try it! Thanks!
Great video, tackled this today, went pretty smoothly. Will add that the GX470 service manual says "set the snap ring with the opening side facing downwards".
Good tip!!
Makes more sense.
I put mine in facing upwards as @ForgottenWaypoints suggested in the video. After a little more research, everywhere says to have open end facing downward. Is this going to be an issue?
Awesome video! Did this yesterday and it was super slick. Tie rod ends and ball joints don’t agree with me. I was going to have my local shop do this until I saw your video!
I found the axles would only come out if I used a pry bar and slightly bent the dust shields. Going back in was tricky too. I ended up lining them up and jamming them into the hole. Tried with a dead blow but that didn’t seem to help.
Thanks again!
Ouch! Sounds like it was still kind of a pain! I’m sorry! I’m glad you got it swapped and the GX back on the road!
Thanks brother. Hey you can use the mallet to bend the cotter pin for the axle nut.
I did this job twice already to my 08' GX470 and both times I was lucky to not have to hammer the axle back in. I just inserted and lined up the axle by feel and gently bumped it in by hand until it is seated. I am just not comfortable with hammering the axle back in. Also if you jack up the side that you are working on you will lose less fluid as opposed to jacking in the middle.
Good tips, thanks!
I was going to watch your video but then right when I started to the boss finally called me back and he told me what to do so thanks anyway the video looks pretty good though thanks
Haha, sounds like you have a cool boss
Great video
Hi, thanks for the great video! I have a question that the part I’m going to purchase says ABS tone ring is not included, do I need to buy a separate one or I can reuse the one on the old cv axle?
My CV didn’t have a new ring I just cleaned it.
Well done.. I shall save this for future use, Hopefully I won't need to, but a handy video nonetheless. 👍🤠
Thanks! I didn't think anyone would be watching this so early. My CV blew that inboard dust seal at 156k miles and 14 years. It blew up on the interstate of all places, on the way to this year's Colorado adventure.
Since it wasn't clicking, I figured I had time....so we did Clear Lake, Bollum Pass, and traveled back to Utah on the gimpy CV axle, ordered a NAPA Premium when I got home, and fixed 'er up!
It's not a bad job, the LX was harder and I needed to align afterwards (the 100 series doesn't have the bolts on the lower control arm to separate the hub from the arm). Advantage GX/Prado.
Your video helped me out a lot thank you sir🫡
Thanks bud!
Every other how-to video i've watched has you remove that outer tie rod end link which requires a special puller tool. Doing it this way looks much easier. Are there any downsides to not removing that end link in accordance with the manual? Could not removing it cause damage or is it simply so you have more room to work on the axle?
I don't know. I'm about 2-3k miles under my replacement with no issues. I was going to double check my alignment but haven't done it yet.
Pulling all of that does make more room, I've done it on other rigs (including my LX). But it would sure suck in the field with a broken CV.
@@ForgottenWaypoints exactly what i was thinking. Not having to remove that outer tie rod on a trail would save a lot of headache.
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road? We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
You should have watched some other videos first.
What