Electricians Day Kitchen First Fix. Wiring In the 150mm Safe Zone. D Line Clips.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Grab a brew and relax.
Kitchen first fix now a wall has been removed and kitchen has been agreed.
Island power and wiring zones.
Find me on Instagram to Cjrelectrical
Second channel Chris Reeve
This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate this video in any way.
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Nice video. I always drill my fixing holes with a long bit before I chase out the boxes so you know they are bang on once chopped out. Just use a nail to locate them afterwards.
Actually sounds like a great tip that. Especially on block it's hard to get the holes in the exact right place so your way would prevent that. Good tip bro
Cracking idea 👍
These videos are probably more valuable than we all think. I'd love to go back in time and see what my house was like in decades gone by. See the inner workings of it all. Maybe I'm being sad. Lockdown Thought of the Day.
Top workmanship even for 1st fixing just as important what you don’t see is well done
I come from N.Ireland where all cables are chased and protected in 20 mm PVC conduit as standard, find this clipping direct and even capping very unusual but all with in the regulations i suppose. keep up the interesting videos
Ah, that's why I've never seen this method here lol (also from NI)
I too am from N.I. Directly burying T&E in tracked walls or even covering them in plastic capping before plastering was always an English thing. Here it's common to use 20 or sometimes 25mm PVC round conduit in tracked walls, a few decades ago it was more common to see oval PVC conduit before round conduit became more common.
Excellent video, Top job 👍🏼
I have been using those fire clips for a while now for the same job. Saves a ton of time. I would have put the cable into the flexi-con, just incase, can be a real pain that stuff.
Fabulous work and also in part one you are a hard grafter 👏🇮🇪😎
Thanks for sharing Chris. Love your work ethic 👍
Nice one Chris mate, wish I was working, something I thought I’d never say a few weeks ago.
Great Video again, many thanks for taking the time to show us your useful tips and tricks. You explain everything very well and show us everything we need to know to understand. If i ever did have my house re-wired, i'd do all the laborious jobs myself saving money. Get the electrician to advice on the design and do the cabling and the consumer unit. Anyone could learn so much with you as a general laborer, i'm sure people would do that job for free just to gain the experience! You would be a great teacher!
Great work Chris... Your fantastic for all the neat tricks and tips... 🎯
You don't muck about mate, great days work and still the usual high standard. Top stuff!
Nice job.
Nice sound track, thought I was watching Scott brown then
or rupert young
I know it's in the regs but that 150mm zone across the top concerns me. Have seen many a decorator batter in a finishing nail to hold up their coving while advesive cures and wouldn't like to see them batter a nail into a bond wire let alone a live one. I know they risk that with vertical drops anyway but at least in line with sockets switches they are more careful. That horizontal bond run gives may points of potentially hitting it...
Horizontal runs are always good in kitchens to avoid drill holes for the cupboard brackets.
All good trades people know to check for below surface cables and pipes before drilling or bashing in nails into walls at any height. If they don't they really should.
My main concern is when come to installing / hanging wall cabinets. I rather run cables through ceiling, rather than along the wall. If it me as it low ceiling I would install cabinet to the ceiling so that can be in the way.
Horizonatal runs are sometimes difficult as you are only allowed to chase in so far, depends on the depth of the block. A spark can run cable in the zoned area. I would run as close to the ceiling as possible, to try & avoid any cabinets being installed.
Nice video Chris with an equally nice soundtrack to go. I've sometimes gone behind the back box or just next to it, hoping that anyone coming after me would have some common sense? Also you wouldn't catch me wearing shorts at first fix! 😬 stay safe mate 😉👍.
Nice one Chris. Always enjoy watching your vids. Early darts for you today! Well, not that early, but early for you!!
Another top class video Chris. Really enjoyed the music during the time lapse, feeling totally chilled out right now 👍
Lovely job mate is it just me but I always take a picture for my records of all chases and runs before it gets all fit and dabbed. Has saved me a few times going to some old works. Also with those d clips is it ok to use plastic plugs or better with concrete screws. Cheers.
Pictures are only way to go if you don't have drawings
Would it not be better to use heavy gauge conduit in the floor? I’ve had flexible crushed in floors before
25mm as well
Good video as always keep up n good luck
Class video as always Chris! Nice use of D clips.👌
haha had to watch vid twice, thought i was on hold to the bank and went to sleep, good vid's library musac
Oh, those frustrating final milimetres to get the back box to sit properly in the hole. Takes as long sometimes as making the overall hole in the first place.
Love it, stay safe Chris 👍
My main concern is when come to installing / hanging wall cabinets. I rather run cables through ceiling, rather than along the wall. If it me as it low ceiling I would install cabinet to the ceiling so that can be in the way.
Nice work Chris
Great upload as always bud.
Nice one Chris
Just a few things - I'm an industrial spark so pls don't flame me too much!!
Please wear eye protection when drilling/chiseling - I see you have ear protection but you also only get one pair of eyes too. If you are creating a lot of dust or any dangerous dust then please also use a dust mask.
Where wires are being fitted in a wall and being plastered over in a wall imo fire clips are over the top - if they weren't installed and there was a fire which was that bad that the cables were to hang down I don't think a firefighter would be in there anyway.
Personally I'd prefer an armoured cable or a steel conduit in the floor as opposed to Kopex.
Agree on the spectacles and mask.
Your missing my point on using the fire clips it’s not to protect against premature collapse but to simply hold the cables in place for me. Knock on clips pullout where as these are screwed in and never come out. Also any cables in the fabric of the building do not need protecting from premature collapse. If a ceiling is down with half the walls a few cables is the least of a firefighters worries.
Great video , keep up
Hey Chris I’m using those d line clips a lot recently but I’ve got a concrete gun which speeds things up a lot 😉😊
Good content, good production value and is that a five foot level?
Good work as always bud
Totally with you on the doubles. Hate hate hate them. Unless you have a perfect fit, always a gap.. some try and caulk them and/or painted and looks like a dog dinner.
If your hoping to use the water bond to bond heating pipes you are better running it to the pipe manifold at the boiler I would imagine with the amount of push fit fitting in use you may well loose the connection before it reaches the heating pipes
Correct hence why I’ve run two bonds one to the water and one to the heating/boiler/oil
CJR ELECTRICAL 👍
Loving the use of the safe zones. 👍🏾
Just ashame all the other following trades don't have a clue where cables are allowed to be installed, and when they hit one that's in the zone, all you get is that's a stupid place to put a cable. Who thought of that.
Never used the flexi in floors I've used 20mm heavy gauge conduit to female adaptor from socket in KO box. Suppose once concretes over it will be ok. Used to be told to use SWA but gave up with that one as there's bugger all space in most of them islands for a point!
Good vid :)
Music you could club seals to 😀
Rick B Fan of Sean Lock by any chance?!
Boss job laser makes it easier than that huge level though and gets perfection within mm.
Why are you using metal cable clips in the wall? And by bunching the cables in the one clip they don't look that deep below the surface of the plaster?
Why does it matter if in zones? If you're drilling there... 2mm or 10mm won't make any difference!
Listen to the video and he said he couldn’t get normal clips into wall so this is better/faster way to clip a bunch of cables
@@taska2510 Exactly
(in kitchen)run your bond to the pipe work but dont connect it till you conduct a 23k test to make sure its extraneous, some times bonding non extraneous is more dangerous if it has no ref to true earth , subject pipe work to fault currents well done enjoy the vids especially in lockdown where my own business is non going atm (also do you use wall plugs when you fit fire support clips looking inot the bre fire tests def. a worthy read in wiring matters you see my debate )
Good video 😁
Someone should let the homeowner know that their kitchen has been nicked
I thought you would have put the cable inside the kopex before putting it in the floor coz it's gonna be difficult to get cable in that skinny thing no?
No as long as it’s pulled straight and tight you can easily feed a twin and earth through it.
@@Cjrelectrical ah ok, just that I saw that there seems to be a tightish corner bend on the right then up onto the wall, I guess if you're gonna pull the straight bit first before they bury the bends then you should be alright
2x 2.5's?
@@jonathanstephens7804 might struggle with 2 x 2.5s AND the 10mm earth in 20mm flexi... Agreed!
Love the content mate!
Could you comment on when you would or would not CAP the cable runs please. What capping would you use if you needed to use it when doing first fix? Like to protect from nicks from plasterers trowel ect.
Guessing the customer didn't want a grid switch then 😂, personally don't like the look of loads of fused spurs on worktops.
Nor me, rather put them in a cupboard or on a grid as you say
I run a separate radial to a grid switch and keep the appliances separate from the ring circuit in kitchens. Been doing this for years hate fused spurs in a nice kitchen. PS I hate ring circuits.
amf elec 4mm radial?
I have always been told that it was bad practice to bond straight over PVC cables as the effective current rating of the cable is reduced due to the heating effect because of the lack of airspace around the cables - particularly on a kitchen ring main where loading is likely to be high.
David, you can bond straight over cables, best to keep them flat if you can, I’ve seen lots of installs where they have been grouped together in galv band & bonded over, that could possibly be a problem
Cables actually dissipate their heat better buried directly in the wall than if they were in conduit or under capping as the air acts as an insulator.
Microwave under / over the boiler? Weird.
Thought the same strange. Where is the glue high or to the side I guess.
ive done the same with mine, mounted a high 600mm wide cabinet to encompase the boiler then mounted a built in microwave underneat/inside the cabinet
With doing a lot of box cutting into block have you thought about using a box cutter/sinker kit for the socket/switch from Armeg or other manufacturers,I have Thorsman Quadra cut myself had it for awhile.
nooice
And why are we using D-line clips @ 53p a pop in chases? Premature collapse behind the furniture under the plaster? :D
Simply better than knock on clips
Great vid...but I was curious what you used for the bonding of the chased routes?
Surprised you not got a square box dril cutter
New regs??
Nice
Hi Chris, can you tell me what that sds chisel bit is, for chasing the boxes out!
Hi mines a dewalt but gives you an idea.
www.toolstation.com/heller-sds-plus-mortar-chisel/p39281?store=AB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzbPclPP-6AIVh-N3Ch0A7AFpEAQYBCABEgLdMfD_BwE
I’m so so lost. Why a nuke box above a boiler in a cupboard with a door. 🤪🤪🤪😜
It's interesting to see how buildings in U.K. are constructed. Cutting trenches to run wiring looks like a lot of work.
How is the wiring protected from nails and screws ?
This is in England, here in northern ireland (same bloody regs) wed be shot if we just put clips on the the cables in the wall like that, weve to chase deeper and fit the cables within 20 or 25mm pipe
Still Chris every video I ask , can I please know the details of the music used during your time lapse 😩
Sorry here’s a link for you 👍
th-cam.com/video/04yvWXw5Szk/w-d-xo.html
Hi Chris, another cracking video. Little bit confused, did you say you were going to cap the cables prior to covering with thistle bonding or did you say you were just going to clip as the thistle bonding doesn't react with the PVC?. Keep up the good work mate 👍
What are the apprentice programs in the UK like? I'm a second year electricians apprentice in the US and we do four years on the job and four years in school. So after four years of working and going to school at nights three times a week I'm eligible to take my journeymans license test.
Did you use 25mm boxes or 35mm? Always used 35mm in my day, bit more chasing but more waiting room.
I like your SDS flat chisel, seen them in Screwfix but never got round to buying one. Not sure if they were even available in the 80s an 90s.
I would have done island connection differently, I would have fitted a 30A switch on wall and taken out a 4 or 6mm radial to island as a radial.
Not a critism BTW, we all do things differently.
What do you use to fill your chases mate?
Good
nice video chris whats the sds chisel bit you are using
hi Chris, why the extra box under the fuse boxes? Is this just easier to work with? Would a internal gland cover any reg problems with this.?
What model of drill do you use to chase the sockets / walls. Nice work and videos btw.
8:27 I don't get the 150 safe zone in the corner of the rooms. That's exactly where I'm going to drill the wall unit bracket. Can anyone explain?
There's nothing stopping you drilling in that area but you will need to check for cables as it's considered a zone for us sparked. it's not often people will drill in the corner of a room or hand a picture within 150mm of the corner.
1:55 is that from the Electricians Guide to the Building Regs?
tall, dork and hungsome I thought this, thought was 300mm from the bowl of the sink meaning if you wanted to could have over drainer
Is the zone for other electricians or all trades? Would a plumber or a painter know about zones so they don’t drill trough it or put a nail in it hanging up a mirror?
in theory, yes
Yes if they all read the building regulations
Hi chris,
How would you go about wiring to a fuseboard that is under the stairs but on the exterior wall? I know people going down the cavity but thats not a safe zone!
You doing the plumbing as well Chris?
Good video.....but ...... why don't you use egatube or capping over your cables? I know it isn't required as such but I see you go over and above in other areas such as in a loft clipping your cables precisely etc. Just a question
Lots of cables with multiple cross overs. If i was leaving it for the plasterer to make good then I’d have capped it not knowing him.
Top man
Where can I find that a link to download the new regs for the distance from the edge of the hob now really handy to know it’s only 100mm now as I always worked to 300mm. Cheers mate. Videos are 👌🏻
Sam Docherty electricans guise to building regs book on amazon
Just remember it’s an electricians guide, it isn’t regulation.
@@PJB71 seeing as there isn't a reg for distance from hob, elechickens guide is better than nothing eh
hey mate nice video, wife and I thinking about getting our kitchen done next year.. had an electrician mate of mine probably going to do the work.. if it dont cost me too much beer! LOL! one thing I noticed you said which was different to he, either side of the hob, you said the new regs are 100mm, he said 300mm?? not too much in it I know, but might make the difference about fitting an extra socket further along the run, a quick reply would be well appreciated, stay safe, stu
Check the new onsite guide.
th-cam.com/video/rw1R-Ua-g_c/w-d-xo.html
There you go might be helpful
@@Cjrelectrical hey mate, thanks for that, I found the 100mm on the NHBC 8.1/22 Jan 2016 the other 300mm was on a pro-certs website informaion but looking at this is being recommended!! I'm just trying to get as many sockets etc in the right places as I can.. properly! Guess there is just a lot of conflicting info out there!
Have you never had a plasterer cut off your cables when you leave them sticking out like that?
I always trim them and coil them in the boxes, dont give the thistle brains the chance, who knows they may even clean out your boxes if you do
After the first fix, I’d be interested to know if those that are still to be dotted and dabbed, are measured so you know where are, or it makes impression on plasterboard ?
They're flush with the original board so will need cutting out by the tacker. But then they should be anyway
Chris could you put a link to what sds drill and chisel bit you use ? , cheers!
Did u find out mate
Hey Chris, do you put the cables in wavan before bonding? Love the videos. Not a tradesman. David🇮🇪🇮🇪
@R-77 Oval wavan to protect the cables.
Noticing the single boxes with the 4 screw points, I can’t help but wonder why more and more fixings are appearing with the mounting screws on the top and bottom of the faceplates. 🤔
single K/O boxes have always had 4 lugs.
They did, in the old days! I bet there are some examples in JW's museum, somewhere...
single ko's still have 4 lugs always good practice to bend the 2 over
The top lugs are for grid switches
Why not put the spurs in a cupboard?
I don't know how to determine prescribed cable zones in concrete floors. So I use armoured cables, am I wasting my time
Common sense will prevail
The likely hood of someone wanting to screw through an oak floor highly unlikely.
Where did you find the kitchen layout diagram, I cant find it in the blue on-site guide.
18th edition electricians guide to the building regulations.
@@Cjrelectrical thank you
how would you price this up,per point ???,,as they can be lots of revisits,and amendments,like your cables being moved for door frames etc.keep up the good work
If the door was added after pricing then moving and resighting the box is an extra
Is it good practice to add the washer dryer socket to the kitchen ring?? let’s say the dryer and washing machine are on at the same time pulling about 5kw and the kettle is switched on, wouldn’t the be overloading? Like now people have all types of stuff e.g. bread makers, toasty grills, blenders, etc what’s if they on these appliances at the same time. What is your suggestion for this situation? Great work btw I learn loads from your vids. also what sds bit is that?
Happened to my Mrs literally a few weeks ago. Washing machine going full pelt whilst the dishwasher, kettle and food blender were running. Very rare occurrence, but it tripped. I'd love a separate ring for white goods appliances.
The chances of each of the appliances being on at the same time and pulling there maximum load is minimal. I get where you are coming from though.
yes but think about your main fuse! 80/100amp. and your house has multiple circuits which all add to far greater than 80amp. its just diversity that not everything will be on at one time same time juts have to think about what is running.
must be one hell of a cooker to need to use 10mm cable, I'm not seeing any gas pipes is it all electric?
Correct
@@Cjrelectrical 50 amp breaker?
40 not had a call to it tripping yet
@@Cjrelectrical would 6mm not have been adequate for that or is it just insurance against a potential upgrade of the appliance?
Mark Inglis always go with manufacturers recommendation
Fuc? me a sparky who fills his own holes in and cleans up after him self . Fair play very nice job
I've never seen the logic of the 150 safe zone. People nail coving in that area. It's not safe at all in my view
The music remind anyone of willy wonka and the chocolate factory, the original one?
Can’t you claim off the government? we are all meant to be at home?
What drill is it you are using for knocking out the boxes?
Nice one Chris