@@stewmac Also, this video couldn't have come along at a better time. After I watched this video the next day I was pulling some of my bass guitars out to check on the neck relief. I noticed that my player series Precision with a maple neck has a nasty case of fret sprout right now. So the tips in this video will be applied fairly quickly to that bass.
The cheapest guitar I ever bought on Amazon a month ago had the smoothest and rounded frets ends. Guitar cost $98! Bought as a project guitar. No fret work needed. Change of strings and it was good to go. Getting a Fender Player stat tomorrow. I guarantee it will need fret work. Thank you.
What on earth is wrong with the--at the time of writing this comment--192 people who downvoted this video? This is one of the clearest, well-produced tutorials (almost on any topic) I've ever watched. Thank you Stew!
This has got to be the most comprehensive “fret sprout” tutorial in the universe! Nothing left unanswered - thank you giving me the confidence to address my guitars with fret issues. Chris
I've been using raw cloth-backed Micro Mesh 1500-12000 grit to polish fret ends after beveling for 25 years now. Micro Mesh is an incredible polishing tool that comes in many forms, like the foam-backed version seen here, and is used in many industries from finger nail polishing to removing scratches in fighter jet canopies. It's actually known as the "non-abrasive-abrasive" because if you lay into it with some elbow grease, the heavier grit can be abrasive when you need it to be. It's extremely controllable. It works on metals, woods and plastics. For guitars, 2400 grit is a good starting place finally ending with 4000 grit to finely polish most guitar related surfaces to a gloss. Your grit choices may vary. The ONLY problem is Micro Mesh is wicked expensive, and the older MM from the 90's that I use absolutely works better than the new stuff, but the new MM can still last a long time. Like I said, I'm still using Micro Mesh from the 90s when I was a trombone maker. I saved a lot of it because I knew how special it is. Use MM wet or dry and use an ultra sonic cleaner with detergent to clean and renew it. HOPE THIS HELPS.
good tips, i got a new guitar and have been setting it up how i want and waited to do the fret ends, i've been going real slow with fine grit polishing stones, going real easy and slow, not using agrressive files, i like your method, i've been wondering what to use to get even finer, but i kinda figurfed out that not using agressive files is prob smart, i didn't want to cut into anything..i'll buy some of that micro mesh.
I have a set of MM from the 90's as well still going strong.I wish Stew Mac still sold the 90's era polishing wheels for dremel,the ones they sell now aren't as good,they don't flex as much and are more difficult to shape to the exact crown of the fret .
I had this problem for years, but simply keeping the guitar in the case made a big difference. Recently I've been putting the humidifying packs made for cigar humidors in my case, an inexpensive way to manage dryness. One cheap little pack works for months. I no longer have that fret popping issue.
StewMac, bravo on this in-depth updated version of Dan’s instructional. To anyone curious about doing their own fretwork, this is 100% all the info you need. With only these 2 or 3 tools, and a little practice, you can definitely do this yourself. The cost of the tools add up to the same price as a setup with some fretwork. It’s worth it. It didn’t take me long to get the technique right with the beveler and fret dressing file. You can totally do this!
i can't order stewmac tools here in romania so I had to make due with what I have. I have to say my file destroys the fretboard's edge and the fret ends are still sharp... so frustrating! I doubt his file would be better honestly.. I just don't understand how he makes it look so easy!
Great tutorial I did this to my cheap ibanez flamenco guitar which plays amazing for the price. After filing and dressing then polished with micromesh pads then oiled the fretboard and now it's super smooth and feels like an expensive guitar. Thanks for the video 😎
Great camera work showing the subtle motions with the files. With a maple fretboard, is there any special technique to avoid damaging the lacquer/finish on fretboard edge? Thanks
theres not much you can do do "avoid" contact with the varnished area....it will look a bit "fresh" at first, but after playing a couple of hours it will soon "blend in"....or "age"....
Literally...the best fret shaping tutorial I have seen after suffering more youtube wandering than I care to admit. Having done my time with a file in a machining world, the overall approach completely makes sense, I just hadnt peiced it all together till I saw this vid. Excellent sense of humor and great graphical representations too. Yes...I am clicking subscribe now guys, keep it up!
I've ordered parts and tools galore from stewmac over the years. Last job was a broken cello neck and I steamed it apart, splined and reset neck, and put it all back together. Cello plays like a dream again. U guys rock.
This is precisely what I needed. What are all the tools needed? How to use them most effectively, efficiently, and in what order? Just perfect. Excellent editing also. Just the right amount of time for each detail. Thank you stew mac
Great timing Gene. I am doing the fret job on the 12-string you and I have discussed at length as we speak. Thanks again to all you guys at StewMac for the help we receive whenever we ask. Byron Stafford, N.E. Arizona.
Superb video! One thing I would add. If you leave an acoustic guitar out of its case in the winter, exposing it to prolonged periods of dry air, and the fret board shrinks, don't fret (as Gene said). But don't bring those tools out and start filing those fret ends down yet! Try putting in back in the case with a humidifier first, then close the case and leave it closed for a week or so. You might be surprised to see the fret board absorb some of that moisture and re-expand, hiding those exposed fret ends and returning to normal. Just a suggestion. If you go right in and start filing, the fret board might come back in the summer, and leave you with frets that are shorter than the fret board. Thanks!
Superb informative video. Thank you. Micro mesh has so many uses. As well as using it on frets it's also good for levelling out any paint or varnish touch-ups. Used with water you can get a super flat finish prior to finishing with a good polish.
My $145 Harley Benton TE62 has such nice fret ends and no matter the time of the season, the fret ends are smooth. I can’t believe in a guitar that cost only $145!
Guys, incredible video. So instructive, so detailed, and so short ( not to mention so humorous ). That says a lot about the StewMac reputation. Keep up the great work. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge with all of us "wannabes". You Rock!!!
Dude thanks....I was panicking so hard the other day, I picked up every single guitar and they all developed sharp fret ends during this month. I thought my guitars were done for but I read into it and people were saying most of the time you can treat it like this and you should be fine. Thanks for the video...right on time.
Like the dressing flie push stroke for both sides. I really get into a groove with it. Hips, elbows, body position, rotating my body into each stroke. After a while you just get super fast at it. Don't like a bevelling file as well. I'll just go straight to the mesh pad cycle and I'll go through em all, then rub it out with fine polish. Don't feel comfortable with steel wool on electric guitars, magnetic pick ups and fine metal dust isn't to appealing to me. Basically, the same techniques. With a few minor variations. Everyone develops their own technique. Personally l like more rounded frets ends. Even bring in the frets a little more and roll the freeboard a little as well. Though you might have to make another nut with narrower string spacing. Just a personal preference.
Very good info, I feel like I might be able to do this myself now. You've really taken care to note everything, you went slow enough for me to catch everything and that tells me you care about having the end result turn out right for me. Thank you.
Fantastic! I really appreciate how thorough you were. Would like to see more videos like this given I view StewMac tips as highly trusted. How about a level, crown & polish? Or even a full refret would be wonderful too
Took me 8 years to shred down a Fender bass guitar. Well, fingers really start to bleed and a guitar builder had to fix it like you did! After that I had to get used to jumbo frets instead of the "sharp" frets. Played, sounded different ofc. Amazing video! Thanks!
We have very long and harsh winters here in Norway. I made it a habbit to bring my Acustic info the bathroom when I shower during winter. Works like a charm🙌
Great video. It’s pretty much how I do it. I do use your fret beveling file that is embedded in the poly block and on new builds or a refret when you are removing more material I have noticed the filings tend to get under the block and scratch the frets so I usually tape off the frets except for the ends to prevent that.
Oh boy. I remember when I got my first bass with this issue. I was young and clueless about fret sprout. My fingers looked like that shredded dowel! After doing my own fretwork now, I can say this video shows exactly what is needed for success.
Wonder if there is any additional advice when doing this job for guitars with maple fretboards? I worry about how to avoid messing with the lacquer on the neck, and how to touch up the lacquer if I do mess the lacquer.
Great question! It's the same basic process, the only difference is that you have finish on the surface of the fretboard too. With the right tools and good technique, you shouldn't do any damage that won't clean up in the polishing process...just like the sides of the neck here. What you often find on inexpensive guitars with painted maple boards is that the finish is thick and built up around the frets and cracks as a result of the wood shrinking, that's a different scenario.
I guess my one question is, if you react to the humidity change by filing and dressing the frets and then the humidity reverses, I assume the wood will expand again and the frets will be shy of the edge of the neck? Problem compounded?
Great question! Wood doesn't tend to swell at the same rate as it shrinks under normal circumstances, so even after the humidity goes back up to a safe range, the wood doesn't completely return and you still end up with sharp ends.
Great video. I need this and it's going in my save bucket. I have the fret end dressing file and the micro mesh pads. Both tools are great. I'd like to get the mill file now. I've dressed about a dozen sets of frets and boy do I need the practice. I'm getting better and have discovered, as you said, that I've over-dressed sets of frets often. It's not an easy skill to perfect, but practice and training videos like this are great. I will keep after it. Thank you for this simple, yet great training video.
At the end of last year, I bought a Wilkinson Tele kit from StewMac and out of the box the neck had rough fret ends. This was due to the fact that the production date on the guitar was one year prior to my purchase and over the course of the year the wood had shrunk a bit. To me, that was a good thing because I felt that the wood in the neck had stabilized. Doing exactly what you have shown here has given me a really smooth neck.
Loved the humor! I had to pause the video for a minute to laugh. I almost expected Dan to rush in wearing scrubs & prepped for surgery. 🤣 Remembering the first time I picked up my brand new Harmony Strat-copy birthday present as a 16 y/o. As I was admiring it I ran my hand down the neck, and was greeted with it taking a tiny chunk out of my palm. Sharp fret ends positively suck… but they teach you a lesson in the end. Two actually. One - to beware the fret ends after a seasonal change. And two - to quickly learn how to deal with them. To avoid massive hemorrhaging. 😉🤣 Another great video! I could never even begin to quantify how much Stew Mac content has taught me. Seriously in your debt.
Good timing - I grabbed a guitar to play this am that I haven't played in a bout a month and realized it has succumbed to the Wyoming winter. The fret ends are protruding and sharp. We're snowed in - I'll work on this today! Thank YOU!
This is really helpful. I have the tools but not the skills so I'm practicing on a $70 Fender Starcaster from Walmart, via the pawn shop. $30 for new pickups and some copper tape to shield them. But fixing the frets is more important than anything. It'll immediately change how you play, for the better. Thanks.
Very nice video on the topic. Slight correction in the beginning though, metal does shrink due to the colder temperature, just not nearly as much as wood, because they're not affected by moisture.
I live in Santa Fe NM where our humidity is about like Mars. All my guitars, for some reason, don't have this fret problem. However, I have a Mandolin that is like playing a saw blade. If I do a fret job on it and, heaven forbid, move to Georgia the wood will swell and leave the frets too short. Since I don't plan to move, should I just not worry about it and do the job? Thanks, Michael
Gratefully for your tips and tricks. You work with care and caution, showing us how respecting our guitars. Sometimes good brand guitars require much more than fine adjustments. Your work equals the doctor. I’d like add in the same way that to maintain the fingerboards against the fingers sweat and the dryness of the wood, a French luthier strongly advises using camellia oil that the Japanese use for the conservation of the wooden handles of their katanas. Miracle oil also known for the Cosmetique of the facial skin for no need high price. Thank you and greetings from Casablanca Morocco
Wery well done! I bought all the articles in this video and can confirm they work as described. StewMac tools never disappointed me so far, although the prices often gave me slight creeps ...
Great video. I had an Ibanez that would catch my strings. Not sharp but, apparently, never adjusted in factory. I just made up the filing as I went along. This helps me understand the proper steps. Thank you.
Great question! It's the same basic process, the only difference is that you have finish on the surface of the fretboard too. With the right tools and good technique, you shouldn't do any damage that won't clean up in the polishing process...just like the sides of the neck here. What you often find on inexpensive guitars with painted maple boards is that the finish is thick and built up around the frets and cracks as a result of the wood shrinking, that's a different scenario.
Thanks for the great video. Two thoughts…. For my own fretwork I no longer get fussy about the final finishing and polishing. Just play the heck out of the guitar and it’s good to go in a few days. Your flat files are super expensive listed here for fret work. I’ve bought plenty from stewmac and it’s always great stuff. But for files I’ve just purchased old fashioned hardware store files for years, and with a bit of easy modification they’ve worked very well.
Grateful for your tips and tricks. you show to us how working with care and caution with our guitars. Sometimes guitars good brands guitars require much more than fine adjustments. I’d like add that to maintain the fingerboards against the sweat of the fingers, the dryness of the wood, a French luthier strongly advises camellia oil that the Japanese use for the conservation of the wooden handles of their katanas. Miracle oil also known for the Cosmetique of the facial skin!! Thank you guitar doctor and greeting from Casablanca Morocco
When you have a finished neck but unfinished fretboard where the finish from the neck actually covers the sides of the fretboard and fret ends, how do you deal with this? My guitar looks like 0:24, and I've been wanting to clean my fret ends. Do we want to shave down the finish on the edge of the fingerboard along with the fret ends until reaching bare fretboard wood? Thanks
If you have thick finish build up over the ends that is coming loose and you want to preserve that, you should visit a good repairshop to see what your options are. You may require some touch up that's hard to determine without the ability to inspect the guitar. Thanks!
Great animation and explanation, thanks! In my experience the wood never really expands enough to return back to its original shape. Once it contracts, the frets are going to be sticking out until you file them.
Awesome video, but I do have a question in regards to stainless steel fretst. In the beginning of the video you mentioned to stay away from excessively spaced levels, so my question is for stainless steel frets, given the material is harder than Nickel, which of the leveling systems is best? Lastly, thank you so much for posting the video. I have wanted to learn how to do this without messing up my guitars for a while, especially for cheaper guitars which tend to have have this problem due to the use of cheaper woods as well as the Colorado climate. Every Winter, even with a humdifier in the room, a few of my guitars feel like I'm playing a rose bush with the prickly/sharp fret ends. @StewMac please respond if you have the time; it would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you so much for the info!! After watching your video I can now dig out all of guitars from my grave yard closets and repair my buzzing sounds and stop buying so many bandaids.. great 👍 video my brother this channel is well worth subscribing..
*I constantly express to other guitarists fret trimming, setting your action and adjusting your truss-rod is work they should all learn how to perform.* I see the disasters many pay a "luthier" for that they post on Reddit when at a loss for what to do. Sometimes it's bad enough that they literally need to sue! Then it wanders into "right and wrong" where I like to file my fretwire flat, *leave it flat* and polish it up without crowning. I'm a shred and sweep player but I use an awful lot of blues flourishes in there, so for me, the flat contact works much better.
Oh cool! Thanks for the video and links to the equipment. I’ve been wanting to fix the slightly overhanging frets on this sweet Chibson goldtop gunslinger pawnshop find from about six months ago on a tour. The high string constantly gets caught on the frets.
I was stunned to see the unique quality of Recording King. Yeah they need to be refined a bit, but they have a very good sound that sounds vintage even though they are brand new. I'm not selling my Recording King Resonator.
Hey Gene...(and Stewmac team)...Great video...well done and well made....and very good on the sharp points....love it...cheers and as fate will have it...i just bought a new prs 594 mccarty singlecut...what beaut...BUT.....fret sprout alarm...yes its been very cold here (germany) but i just might have to spring into action and see to some of those snaggy frets.....thanks a lot...
Can't stress enough about keeping steel wool away from pickups! Years ago, my Jazzmaster returned from a refret with little shards of steel wool dust clinging to the pickup covers. The repair guy shrugged it off, saying it's not harmful.
It's not harmful. Until the steel shards start chewing away at pickup windings. You used to see people suggest collecting these shards by using a stronger magnet. Don't do that, either. That can easily end up demagnetizing the magnets in your pickups.
Steel wool has no business being in a good repair shop. No good repairman would ever use it for any work. It does make a good ebonizing solution, but that's the only use it has in my repair shop. Micromesh is king for polishing frets. The fret erasers are awesome too.
Great Video! I so need to put together a kit for guitar and bass setups, with fret dressing and polishing. It's always great to have and play something like a high end Sadowsky, Gibson, Martin or Fender. There certainly is something special about their quality of workmanship, wood and details. However, I do believe with the right setup and fret work, you can get a Recording King, Squier or lower end Ibanez to play well. If it's electric, with all the aftermarket pickup, electronics and preamp options available, it can certainly get you in the neighborhood. It may not be the best in the neighborhood but hey, it's all about the player anyway. Marcus Miller sounds like Marcus Miller, even when he's playing a Sire.
Great video! I have a question though... How do you keep that 4-0 steel wool from buffing the fretboard finish above and below the frets? I do some wood working where I use the same grade of steel wool to help with the final finish so I'm curious how something as imprecise as a wad of steel wool doesn't buff down the wood finish on the fret board?
It can work, but it often leaves you with "mushy" looking fret ends if you use it for the trimming process. We recommend saving the foam block or cushioned sanding pads for the final polishing stage. Thanks!
In watching this I realize my mistake with step 2 has been putting too much pressure on the file and losing the nice shape you get with that clean bevel. I especially like your finishing step of going over the edges again after polishing to knock the shine off- really nice touch! I will be doing this from now on. Thanks!!
I bought a brand new 12 fret to the body Recording King Dreadnought . The wood part of the bridge was not flush to the top , it had gaps under it , you could slide a piece of paper under it in certain parts of it . The instrument cost around $ 365.00 . The store I bought it from said that I had to ship it back to Recording King at my own cost . I ended up pawning it for $100.00 . Loss of $265.00 . no more Recording KIngs for me . Thank you
Thanks for posting this. This is probably the most comprehensive video on how to correct sharp fret ends that I have seen yet.
@carlmontney7916 Thanks a bunch! Really appreciate your comment.
THE BEST!!!
@@stewmac Also, this video couldn't have come along at a better time. After I watched this video the next day I was pulling some of my bass guitars out to check on the neck relief. I noticed that my player series Precision with a maple neck has a nasty case of fret sprout right now. So the tips in this video will be applied fairly quickly to that bass.
q@@stewmac
@carlmontney7916 right on, best of luck!
The cheapest guitar I ever bought on Amazon a month ago had the smoothest and rounded frets ends. Guitar cost $98! Bought as a project guitar. No fret work needed. Change of strings and it was good to go. Getting a Fender Player stat tomorrow. I guarantee it will need fret work. Thank you.
What on earth is wrong with the--at the time of writing this comment--192 people who downvoted this video? This is one of the clearest, well-produced tutorials (almost on any topic) I've ever watched. Thank you Stew!
192 angry Luthiers at the time of your comment 😂
This has got to be the most comprehensive “fret sprout” tutorial in the universe! Nothing left unanswered - thank you giving me the confidence to address my guitars with fret issues.
Chris
Awesome, we're so glad you feel empowered to take care of this on your own rigs, best of luck Chris!
great zoom-ins on the fret ends. Really could see the rounding work so much better than previous videos. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback! That's great to hear.
I've been using raw cloth-backed Micro Mesh 1500-12000 grit to polish fret ends after beveling for 25 years now. Micro Mesh is an incredible polishing tool that comes in many forms, like the foam-backed version seen here, and is used in many industries from finger nail polishing to removing scratches in fighter jet canopies. It's actually known as the "non-abrasive-abrasive" because if you lay into it with some elbow grease, the heavier grit can be abrasive when you need it to be. It's extremely controllable. It works on metals, woods and plastics. For guitars, 2400 grit is a good starting place finally ending with 4000 grit to finely polish most guitar related surfaces to a gloss. Your grit choices may vary. The ONLY problem is Micro Mesh is wicked expensive, and the older MM from the 90's that I use absolutely works better than the new stuff, but the new MM can still last a long time. Like I said, I'm still using Micro Mesh from the 90s when I was a trombone maker. I saved a lot of it because I knew how special it is. Use MM wet or dry and use an ultra sonic cleaner with detergent to clean and renew it. HOPE THIS HELPS.
good tips, i got a new guitar and have been setting it up how i want and waited to do the fret ends, i've been going real slow with fine grit polishing stones, going real easy and slow, not using agrressive files, i like your method, i've been wondering what to use to get even finer, but i kinda figurfed out that not using agressive files is prob smart, i didn't want to cut into anything..i'll buy some of that micro mesh.
I found some multi-grit erasers, on Amazon of course, came in little box to keep neat and clean. Marked grit number on side 400-1200. Worked well.
I have a set of MM from the 90's as well still going strong.I wish Stew Mac still sold the 90's era polishing wheels for dremel,the ones they sell now aren't as good,they don't flex as much and are more difficult to shape to the exact crown of the fret .
I had this problem for years, but simply keeping the guitar in the case made a big difference. Recently I've been putting the humidifying packs made for cigar humidors in my case, an inexpensive way to manage dryness. One cheap little pack works for months. I no longer have that fret popping issue.
Super quality video on every aspect. Well done guys!
We appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed it.
@@stewmac You guys stained your cool hat with fake blood. :(
I was thinking the same thing
Yeah, I bought an awesome guitar from China.
Well, one of the frets was so sharp I didn't realize I was missing skin utill the next day..
StewMac, bravo on this in-depth updated version of Dan’s instructional. To anyone curious about doing their own fretwork, this is 100% all the info you need. With only these 2 or 3 tools, and a little practice, you can definitely do this yourself. The cost of the tools add up to the same price as a setup with some fretwork. It’s worth it. It didn’t take me long to get the technique right with the beveler and fret dressing file. You can totally do this!
@4stringz324 great advice - thanks so much for the comment!
i can't order stewmac tools here in romania so I had to make due with what I have. I have to say my file destroys the fretboard's edge and the fret ends are still sharp... so frustrating! I doubt his file would be better honestly.. I just don't understand how he makes it look so easy!
There are many TH-cam videos that address this subject but this video is by FAR the best. Thank-you very much.
Great tutorial I did this to my cheap ibanez flamenco guitar which plays amazing for the price. After filing and dressing then polished with micromesh pads then oiled the fretboard and now it's super smooth and feels like an expensive guitar. Thanks for the video 😎
February Fret Ends.
Driest month, and it'll be good all year.
Great teaching in your videos Gene, thank you!
Thanks for this video. The detailed camera work really helps make the process clear.
Great camera work showing the subtle motions with the files. With a maple fretboard, is there any special technique to avoid damaging the lacquer/finish on fretboard edge? Thanks
theres not much you can do do "avoid" contact with the varnished area....it will look a bit "fresh" at first, but after playing a couple of hours it will soon "blend in"....or "age"....
Literally...the best fret shaping tutorial I have seen after suffering more youtube wandering than I care to admit. Having done my time with a file in a machining world, the overall approach completely makes sense, I just hadnt peiced it all together till I saw this vid. Excellent sense of humor and great graphical representations too. Yes...I am clicking subscribe now guys, keep it up!
Great advice and technique, especially that final filing that contrasts the polished edge of the fret arch.
All the info I needed without unnecessary banter. Perfect!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I've ordered parts and tools galore from stewmac over the years. Last job was a broken cello neck and I steamed it apart, splined and reset neck, and put it all back together. Cello plays like a dream again. U guys rock.
That's quite a job - nice work! Thanks for the comment 👍 Keep loothin'!
This is precisely what I needed. What are all the tools needed? How to use them most effectively, efficiently, and in what order? Just perfect. Excellent editing also. Just the right amount of time for each detail. Thank you stew mac
Great timing Gene. I am doing the fret job on the 12-string you and I have discussed at length as we speak. Thanks again to all you guys at StewMac for the help we receive whenever we ask. Byron Stafford, N.E. Arizona.
Superb video! One thing I would add. If you leave an acoustic guitar out of its case in the winter, exposing it to prolonged periods of dry air, and the fret board shrinks, don't fret (as Gene said). But don't bring those tools out and start filing those fret ends down yet! Try putting in back in the case with a humidifier first, then close the case and leave it closed for a week or so. You might be surprised to see the fret board absorb some of that moisture and re-expand, hiding those exposed fret ends and returning to normal. Just a suggestion. If you go right in and start filing, the fret board might come back in the summer, and leave you with frets that are shorter than the fret board. Thanks!
Wow! Best instruction I've experienced on the subject - simple and clear, all the detail you need, without complication. Well done.
I wish all instructional videos were as clearly explained as this one. Excellent videography, too. I’m subscribing - thanks.
Superb informative video. Thank you. Micro mesh has so many uses. As well as using it on frets it's also good for levelling out any paint or varnish touch-ups. Used with water you can get a super flat finish prior to finishing with a good polish.
My $145 Harley Benton TE62 has such nice fret ends and no matter the time of the season, the fret ends are smooth. I can’t believe in a guitar that cost only $145!
Guys, incredible video. So instructive, so detailed, and so short ( not to mention so humorous ). That says a lot about the StewMac reputation. Keep up the great work. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge with all of us "wannabes".
You Rock!!!
Great video , opening is comical. The most concise tutorial I’ve ever seen.❤
This is the best video on fret ends I’ve ever seen in 25 years of guitar making. Nice work.
Quite useful video for sure, very well explained, I especially liked hearing for the change when filing down the side of the frets, very helpful tip
Dude thanks....I was panicking so hard the other day, I picked up every single guitar and they all developed sharp fret ends during this month. I thought my guitars were done for but I read into it and people were saying most of the time you can treat it like this and you should be fine. Thanks for the video...right on time.
Like the dressing flie push stroke for both sides. I really get into a groove with it. Hips, elbows, body position, rotating my body into each stroke. After a while you just get super fast at it. Don't like a bevelling file as well. I'll just go straight to the mesh pad cycle and I'll go through em all, then rub it out with fine polish. Don't feel comfortable with steel wool on electric guitars, magnetic pick ups and fine metal dust isn't to appealing to me. Basically, the same techniques. With a few minor variations. Everyone develops their own technique. Personally l like more rounded frets ends. Even bring in the frets a little more and roll the freeboard a little as well. Though you might have to make another nut with narrower string spacing. Just a personal preference.
I have been doing this for years and this is probably the most complete easy to follow video ever made on the topic!
That’s awesome to hear, thank you! 😊
Very good info, I feel like I might be able to do this myself now. You've really taken care to note everything, you went slow enough for me to catch everything and that tells me you care about having the end result turn out right for me. Thank you.
Fantastic! I really appreciate how thorough you were. Would like to see more videos like this given I view StewMac tips as highly trusted. How about a level, crown & polish? Or even a full refret would be wonderful too
Both of those are in the works now!
This might be the best video on this subject for me.
We appreciate that...Thank you for watching!
Took me 8 years to shred down a Fender bass guitar.
Well, fingers really start to bleed and a guitar builder had to fix it like you did!
After that I had to get used to jumbo frets instead of the "sharp" frets.
Played, sounded different ofc.
Amazing video!
Thanks!
Best and most detailed video I've seen on this subject. Thank you.
Awesome to hear, thank you!
I use Stewmac's 3 corner file for radiusing fret ends. Made a LOT of money with that file! And steel wool is the DEVIL. I never use it anymore.
We have very long and harsh winters here in Norway. I made it a habbit to bring my Acustic info the bathroom when I shower during winter. Works like a charm🙌
What a great video. Now I need to buy all the tools mentioned.
Great video. It’s pretty much how I do it. I do use your fret beveling file that is embedded in the poly block and on new builds or a refret when you are removing more material I have noticed the filings tend to get under the block and scratch the frets so I usually tape off the frets except for the ends to prevent that.
Oh boy. I remember when I got my first bass with this issue. I was young and clueless about fret sprout. My fingers looked like that shredded dowel! After doing my own fretwork now, I can say this video shows exactly what is needed for success.
It certainly happens to the best of us! Awesome you are doing your own fretwork now - keep it up!
Best fret sprout video I've seen. Thank you!
Thanks a bunch!
Wonder if there is any additional advice when doing this job for guitars with maple fretboards? I worry about how to avoid messing with the lacquer on the neck, and how to touch up the lacquer if I do mess the lacquer.
Great question! It's the same basic process, the only difference is that you have finish on the surface of the fretboard too. With the right tools and good technique, you shouldn't do any damage that won't clean up in the polishing process...just like the sides of the neck here. What you often find on inexpensive guitars with painted maple boards is that the finish is thick and built up around the frets and cracks as a result of the wood shrinking, that's a different scenario.
I guess my one question is, if you react to the humidity change by filing and dressing the frets and then the humidity reverses, I assume the wood will expand again and the frets will be shy of the edge of the neck? Problem compounded?
Great question! Wood doesn't tend to swell at the same rate as it shrinks under normal circumstances, so even after the humidity goes back up to a safe range, the wood doesn't completely return and you still end up with sharp ends.
Great video. I need this and it's going in my save bucket. I have the fret end dressing file and the micro mesh pads. Both tools are great. I'd like to get the mill file now. I've dressed about a dozen sets of frets and boy do I need the practice. I'm getting better and have discovered, as you said, that I've over-dressed sets of frets often. It's not an easy skill to perfect, but practice and training videos like this are great. I will keep after it. Thank you for this simple, yet great training video.
At the end of last year, I bought a Wilkinson Tele kit from StewMac and out of the box the neck had rough fret ends. This was due to the fact that the production date on the guitar was one year prior to my purchase and over the course of the year the wood had shrunk a bit. To me, that was a good thing because I felt that the wood in the neck had stabilized. Doing exactly what you have shown here has given me a really smooth neck.
@jwinva awesome to hear that! Nice work - hope you're enjoying the Wilkinson kit (fantastic choice).
Great video!
I taught myself how to use my left hand for the other side of the fret.
Just practiced on a junk neck and before long it was no problem.
Loved the humor! I had to pause the video for a minute to laugh. I almost expected Dan to rush in wearing scrubs & prepped for surgery. 🤣
Remembering the first time I picked up my brand new Harmony Strat-copy birthday present as a 16 y/o. As I was admiring it I ran my hand down the neck, and was greeted with it taking a tiny chunk out of my palm. Sharp fret ends positively suck… but they teach you a lesson in the end. Two actually. One - to beware the fret ends after a seasonal change. And two - to quickly learn how to deal with them. To avoid massive hemorrhaging. 😉🤣
Another great video! I could never even begin to quantify how much Stew Mac content has taught me. Seriously in your debt.
@OldStreetDoc thanks so much for the comment! Wish we had thought of that Doctor Dan idea 😆
@@stewmac You’re more than welcome! As always, I really enjoyed the video.
All the best to everyone at Stew Mac!
The humor was terrible and unfunny but it did communicate the worse case scenario of ignoring your frets
StewMac is *the* source of luthier info. Thanks.
Good instructional video for a common, age old problem!
Good timing - I grabbed a guitar to play this am that I haven't played in a bout a month and realized it has succumbed to the Wyoming winter. The fret ends are protruding and sharp. We're snowed in - I'll work on this today! Thank YOU!
Good luck with your fret ends, and stay warm out there!
This is really helpful. I have the tools but not the skills so I'm practicing on a $70 Fender Starcaster from Walmart, via the pawn shop. $30 for new pickups and some copper tape to shield them. But fixing the frets is more important than anything. It'll immediately change how you play, for the better. Thanks.
Great idea to practice on a cheap guitar before moving on to bigger jobs. Good luck and have fun!
Very nice video on the topic. Slight correction in the beginning though, metal does shrink due to the colder temperature, just not nearly as much as wood, because they're not affected by moisture.
Thank you very much for the great, detailed instructions. Have a good time and a not so cold winter...Peace
I live in Santa Fe NM where our humidity is about like Mars. All my guitars, for some reason, don't have this fret problem. However, I have a Mandolin that is like playing a saw blade. If I do a fret job on it and, heaven forbid, move to Georgia the wood will swell and leave the frets too short. Since I don't plan to move, should I just not worry about it and do the job? Thanks, Michael
Gratefully for your tips and tricks. You work with care and caution, showing us how respecting our guitars. Sometimes good brand guitars require much more than fine adjustments. Your work equals the doctor. I’d like add in the same way that to maintain the fingerboards against the fingers sweat and the dryness of the wood, a French luthier strongly advises using camellia oil that the Japanese use for the conservation of the wooden handles of their katanas. Miracle oil also known for the Cosmetique of the facial skin for no need high price.
Thank you and greetings from Casablanca Morocco
Wery well done! I bought all the articles in this video and can confirm they work as described. StewMac tools never disappointed me so far, although the prices often gave me slight creeps ...
Great video. I had an Ibanez that would catch my strings. Not sharp but, apparently, never adjusted in factory.
I just made up the filing as I went along.
This helps me understand the proper steps. Thank you.
Absolutely! Hope it can be of help to you.
Awesome video! I would be interested to see if your approach is the same with lacquered maple boards.
Great question! It's the same basic process, the only difference is that you have finish on the surface of the fretboard too. With the right tools and good technique, you shouldn't do any damage that won't clean up in the polishing process...just like the sides of the neck here. What you often find on inexpensive guitars with painted maple boards is that the finish is thick and built up around the frets and cracks as a result of the wood shrinking, that's a different scenario.
This is great stuff, thanks for the information. Question - are the tools you've shown hard enough to work on stainless steel frets?
Yes, we use these on stainless too. Thanks!
I just got a custom made tapping instrument and I really need to do this to the frets. Excellent video...thank you so much for posting!
Thanks for the great video. Two thoughts…. For my own fretwork I no longer get fussy about the final finishing and polishing. Just play the heck out of the guitar and it’s good to go in a few days. Your flat files are super expensive listed here for fret work. I’ve bought plenty from stewmac and it’s always great stuff. But for files I’ve just purchased old fashioned hardware store files for years, and with a bit of easy modification they’ve worked very well.
This is great. I was just wondering about this today. Great video and close ups. Very helpful. Looks like i need to grab some tools from you guys.
Was just about to do mine, I’m reminded every time it’s cold , even in so cal
Great no-nonsense video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much!
I mean, there was a liiiitttle nonsense in the beginning, but it was the kind of nonsense I appreciate!
Fender is the king. Not just fret sprout on brand new delivered guitars, but completely undress end such that the top of the ends are like knives.
Grateful for your tips and tricks. you show to us how working with care and caution with our guitars. Sometimes guitars good brands guitars require much more than fine adjustments. I’d like add that to maintain the fingerboards against the sweat of the fingers, the dryness of the wood, a French luthier strongly advises camellia oil that the Japanese use for the conservation of the wooden handles of their katanas. Miracle oil also known for the Cosmetique of the facial skin!!
Thank you guitar doctor and greeting from Casablanca Morocco
When you have a finished neck but unfinished fretboard where the finish from the neck actually covers the sides of the fretboard and fret ends, how do you deal with this? My guitar looks like 0:24, and I've been wanting to clean my fret ends. Do we want to shave down the finish on the edge of the fingerboard along with the fret ends until reaching bare fretboard wood? Thanks
If you have thick finish build up over the ends that is coming loose and you want to preserve that, you should visit a good repairshop to see what your options are. You may require some touch up that's hard to determine without the ability to inspect the guitar. Thanks!
Great animation and explanation, thanks! In my experience the wood never really expands enough to return back to its original shape. Once it contracts, the frets are going to be sticking out until you file them.
OK wow. This IS the video I've been looking for. Thanks for sharing
very clear and detail explanations. Thank you very much for your professionnalism.
I built a 12 fret 00 from a StewMac 000 kit - which I play everyday, but I’m not satisfied with this exact detail. But I haven’t given up on it yet.
3M polishing papers also work great for the final polish.
Awesome video! I have two basses that need this done.
Awesome video, but I do have a question in regards to stainless steel fretst. In the beginning of the video you mentioned to stay away from excessively spaced levels, so my question is for stainless steel frets, given the material is harder than Nickel, which of the leveling systems is best? Lastly, thank you so much for posting the video. I have wanted to learn how to do this without messing up my guitars for a while, especially for cheaper guitars which tend to have have this problem due to the use of cheaper woods as well as the Colorado climate. Every Winter, even with a humdifier in the room, a few of my guitars feel like I'm playing a rose bush with the prickly/sharp fret ends. @StewMac please respond if you have the time; it would be greatly appreciated!
We use these same tools on stainless. It's harder than nickel silver but not unworkable. Thanks!
Thank you so much for the info!! After watching your video I can now dig out all of guitars from my grave yard closets and repair my buzzing sounds and stop buying so many bandaids.. great 👍 video my brother this channel is well worth subscribing..
Right on, good luck fixing those ends!
*I constantly express to other guitarists fret trimming, setting your action and adjusting your truss-rod is work they should all learn how to perform.* I see the disasters many pay a "luthier" for that they post on Reddit when at a loss for what to do.
Sometimes it's bad enough that they literally need to sue!
Then it wanders into "right and wrong" where I like to file my fretwire flat, *leave it flat* and polish it up without crowning.
I'm a shred and sweep player but I use an awful lot of blues flourishes in there, so for me, the flat contact works much better.
Great content with high quality! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
I really liked the tip at the end! Great video, as always!
@VladCotrus thanks so much for the comment - glad you liked the tip!
Totally pro here! Great vid!!! By far the best! Will buy the files exactly as described.!
Great video. I’m about to do this for the first time by myself but feel pretty confident after watching this. Thanks
You'll do great, best of luck!
@@stewmac thank you
Oh cool! Thanks for the video and links to the equipment. I’ve been wanting to fix the slightly overhanging frets on this sweet Chibson goldtop gunslinger pawnshop find from about six months ago on a tour. The high string constantly gets caught on the frets.
Right on, good luck smoothing those down!
I was stunned to see the unique quality of Recording King. Yeah they need to be refined a bit, but they have a very good sound that sounds vintage even though they are brand new. I'm not selling my Recording King Resonator.
Hey Gene...(and Stewmac team)...Great video...well done and well made....and very good on the sharp points....love it...cheers
and as fate will have it...i just bought a new prs 594 mccarty singlecut...what beaut...BUT.....fret sprout alarm...yes its been very cold here (germany) but i just might have to spring into action and see to some of those snaggy frets.....thanks a lot...
@stratman9449 you bet! So glad it was helpful. Best of luck on that PRS, she sounds gorgeous.
Answered every question I had. Amazing job.
Excellent video, I have a much loved guitar that needs fret attention. I think I can handle this,just need to buy the tools.
great technique, and it's really well presented. great camera work! thanks!
Thank you very much!
Can't stress enough about keeping steel wool away from pickups! Years ago, my Jazzmaster returned from a refret with little shards of steel wool dust clinging to the pickup covers. The repair guy shrugged it off, saying it's not harmful.
It's not harmful. Until the steel shards start chewing away at pickup windings.
You used to see people suggest collecting these shards by using a stronger magnet. Don't do that, either. That can easily end up demagnetizing the magnets in your pickups.
Steel wool has no business being in a good repair shop. No good repairman would ever use it for any work. It does make a good ebonizing solution, but that's the only use it has in my repair shop. Micromesh is king for polishing frets. The fret erasers are awesome too.
Thank You for sharing. The world is a better place.
Thanks for watching 😊
Great Video! I so need to put together a kit for guitar and bass setups, with fret dressing and polishing. It's always great to have and play something like a high end Sadowsky, Gibson, Martin or Fender. There certainly is something special about their quality of workmanship, wood and details. However, I do believe with the right setup and fret work, you can get a Recording King, Squier or lower end Ibanez to play well. If it's electric, with all the aftermarket pickup, electronics and preamp options available, it can certainly get you in the neighborhood. It may not be the best in the neighborhood but hey, it's all about the player anyway. Marcus Miller sounds like Marcus Miller, even when he's playing a Sire.
Agreed...Thanks!
Great video! I have a question though... How do you keep that 4-0 steel wool from buffing the fretboard finish above and below the frets? I do some wood working where I use the same grade of steel wool to help with the final finish so I'm curious how something as imprecise as a wad of steel wool doesn't buff down the wood finish on the fret board?
I've seen some people use foam sanding block to fix fret ends, is that ok for the neck?
It can work, but it often leaves you with "mushy" looking fret ends if you use it for the trimming process. We recommend saving the foam block or cushioned sanding pads for the final polishing stage. Thanks!
I have used them with great success. I recommend 320 grit but they are not too common. Just have to take your time and keep a constant angle.
Brilliantly articulated as usual..
Incredibly well taught and filmed. You made D.I.Y. less scary 👍
In watching this I realize my mistake with step 2 has been putting too much pressure on the file and losing the nice shape you get with that clean bevel. I especially like your finishing step of going over the edges again after polishing to knock the shine off- really nice touch! I will be doing this from now on. Thanks!!
Great to hear! Definitely gets easier the more you do it, so keep at it. Thanks for the comment!
Winter is the time to do this job.
The fret work looks excellent and appreciate the video, but what about the and any damage to the finish?!?? :O
I bought a brand new 12 fret to the body Recording King Dreadnought . The wood part of the bridge was not flush to the top , it had gaps under it , you could slide a piece of paper under it in certain parts of it . The instrument cost around $ 365.00 . The store I bought it from said that I had to ship it back to Recording King at my own cost . I ended up pawning it for $100.00 . Loss of $265.00 . no more Recording KIngs for me . Thank you
Great lesson!. Thanks for all these videos. So helpful.