I had a friend who rebuilt VW engines. Once the tins came off he used WD-40 and other penetrants on EVERY bolt and fastener over and over. By the time he got to that engine most everything was well "soaked" and came apart with few problems. Also, our family had two Corvairs, a '63 and a '67. They were great in the PA winter snows. My dad told us to "back out" if we got stuck as it acted like FWD. Worked for us. Good luck with your projects...
I wouldn’t powder coat those cylinders or heads, they are designed to cool the engine, that’s why they weren’t painted from the factory. Great to see you saving the old girl, my mother had an aqua colored 63 Corvair when I was a kid. We enjoyed that car. It was great in the Michigan snow with snow tires. The heater, not so much.
Great to see young people tearing into this stuff. Now I saw another channel pull the jugs out with the pistons still connected to the crank and sorry but it's better to remove the top cover and separate the connecting rods so jug/rod/piston stay together.
Yeah, I would have preferred to do a full rebuild but I really really didn't want to have to mic the crank. A bit more difficult, but hopefully less work overall. I didn't hear any bottom end issues when it ran, so hoping to limit the project creep.
I’ve rebuilt several Corvair engines and I don’t think you need to replace those cylinders. Hone them, new rings and you’re good to go. Pulling everything apart was worth it just to clean it and reseal.
From the look of the fan and the heads looks like ‘61-‘62 102HP. I went through the same thing rebuilding the motor and drivetrain for my ‘64 with a collection of parts from various early model Corvair’s. Good Luck to you!
Head number is referenced in the Clark's catalog page 1 (just after the multi kits) as a 62-63 102hp. I believe the entire engine is original! '64 posi is an unexpected but welcome addition. Thanks for watching!
My guess would be installing a transverse leaf spring like what came on the 64's & a front end sway bar if it doesn't already have one ? & the engine your working on is either a 61 or 62 judging by the fan ! & the 102 HP engine was only produced in 61 thru 63 which was a 145 C.I. & the 80 HP was standard & 1960 was a one year only at it's introduction which was a 140 C.I. & only rated at 80 HP ! & in 1964 the 164 C. I. was introduced which came in at 95 HP standard , & the 110 HP engine was optional , & the Turbo Charged engine remained at 150 HP since its introduction in 1962 , & was optional as well ! There are a couple of books I would highly recommend that will be very helpful in your rebuild ! 1st would be Corvair A History And Restoration Guide by Bill Artzberger , This book covers everything by the numbers ! 2nd would be How To Keep Your Corvair Alive ! You should be able to get these books thru Clark's . Thanks for the video .
Definitely a 102. I've run the numbers, looked at the heads. Fan could have been switched. Diff is a 64 posi. I have a couple reference books already. Will check out the others if i need more!
Had a great laugh, you certainly cut your teeth on a pretty nasty one. I did one once where I took two zip lock bags of little acorns out, they were packed up in the pistons too! Have fun!
My '67s front suspension was all rusty, I expected to break a few bolts when I disassembled but nothing broke. The rear had no rust, I thought that would go smoothly but but broke 3 bolts. Arrggghhh! Had to walk away for a week. My slow-burn Covid project, and 3 years later she's all-new underneath and finally back on the road after 22 years: th-cam.com/video/JCVMGHOIG44/w-d-xo.html
Man, that's how it goes! I really think the inductive heater might change the game for me now though. Thing gets the bolts red in WAY less time than the torch. This car has a lot of rust that's not very severe, and a little (mostly body) that is pretty bad. It'll be interesting to dig in more. My rear engine mount bolts snapped off in the rear valence, so here's hoping the inductive heater helps with that- nothing else does! You car looks like it scoots pretty well! Nice job!
The rear springs are definitely a trap for the uninformed! You can really hurt yourself if you try and change the rear shocks without realizing they hold the springs in.
Yeah they could kill you. Similar with the Saab V4 springs, which are incredibly difficult to remove. But I'll do a video on that later on in 2023 hopefully
Not at this time, actually. I'm hoping the existing clutch will hold out for a while. Not a huge job to pull the drivetrain on this car when it does go. Thanks for the sub!
I suppose it depends how good you are with welding! These early cars were praised for their handling back in the day. They just have to be driven differently than a front engine car. I would recommend going to an autocross instructional day near you to get really comfortable with it, and you'll outrun the Falcons :)
Warning Will Robinson warning!!! Do not coat the heads or cylinders. Unless you like burning up your newly refreshed engine heheheh. Actually, you would be better off with a 3.55 gearing. The 3.27 was the gear used mainly for the PG cars and wasn't good for performance, especially with a posi 4 speed car. Gratz on hitting the good combo though for the rest of the geartrain.
9:59 I'm also questioning why we're taking the top end apart anyway given it ran so damn good. I wouldn't be pulling the heads at all unless it had some issues with the valves, rings, pistons, or jugs.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam Funny you come back to me now. I've got a more or less same period chevy of my own to tinker with now. 71 C10. 250/3spd. Been in my family since it was new!
@@TestECull This one's got to be dead reliable. No messing around, no chances. Have fun with the truck! Love the sixes. You might enjoy my F600 videos. That's got a 262.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam Heh, ye. I'm at the point where I don't even want a V8 in my half ton truck anymore. I've been spoiled by Ford's 300 so much that I'm already to the point I won't buy an F-150 if it doesn't have the 4.9 in it. It's a hard dealbreaker! 300 or bust. And there's no reason the Chev 250 I inherited will be any different. I don't expect to have to do much more to it than a tuneup and a PM service to have that engine road ready again even though it's sat dormant in a garage since 2003. Smooth, reliable, immortally long lived, easily serviceable gas sippers with gobs of torque right off idle. Perfection. Been glancing at that thing here and there. Ol Y-block in it. Gotta be underpowered as hell but that's what they did back then. The brakes on those things are an absolute nightmare and I'm pretty sure you're in the middle of that with it right now. Or at least, recently?
Once again, working with your dad is priceless.
I had a friend who rebuilt VW engines. Once the tins came off he used WD-40 and other penetrants on EVERY bolt and fastener over and over. By the time he got to that engine most everything was well "soaked" and came apart with few problems. Also, our family had two Corvairs, a '63 and a '67. They were great in the PA winter snows. My dad told us to "back out" if we got stuck as it acted like FWD. Worked for us. Good luck with your projects...
I love listening to your excitement everytime you have a victory.
I wouldn’t powder coat those cylinders or heads, they are designed to cool the engine, that’s why they weren’t painted from the factory. Great to see you saving the old girl, my mother had an aqua colored 63 Corvair when I was a kid. We enjoyed that car. It was great in the Michigan snow with snow tires. The heater, not so much.
Great to see young people tearing into this stuff. Now I saw another channel pull the jugs out with the pistons still connected to the crank and sorry but it's better to remove the top cover and separate the connecting rods so jug/rod/piston stay together.
Yeah, I would have preferred to do a full rebuild but I really really didn't want to have to mic the crank. A bit more difficult, but hopefully less work overall. I didn't hear any bottom end issues when it ran, so hoping to limit the project creep.
I guess it's possible to use a ring compressor that way but that seems awkward to me
I’ve rebuilt several Corvair engines and I don’t think you need to replace those cylinders. Hone them, new rings and you’re good to go. Pulling everything apart was worth it just to clean it and reseal.
With the scoring? I am more comfortable with getting new ones, personally. It's definitely good I got the heads to the machine shop though.
Yea I admit I sent that before watching the whole video so I didn’t know about the scoring.
My brothers had corvairs those were fun times both bought new .
From the look of the fan and the heads looks like ‘61-‘62 102HP. I went through the same thing rebuilding the motor and drivetrain for my ‘64 with a collection of parts from various early model Corvair’s. Good Luck to you!
Head number is referenced in the Clark's catalog page 1 (just after the multi kits) as a 62-63 102hp. I believe the entire engine is original! '64 posi is an unexpected but welcome addition. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video!
My guess would be installing a transverse leaf spring like what came on the 64's & a front end sway bar if it doesn't already have one ? & the engine your working on is either a 61 or 62 judging by the fan ! & the 102 HP engine was only produced in 61 thru 63 which was a 145 C.I. & the 80 HP was standard & 1960 was a one year only at it's introduction which was a 140 C.I. & only rated at 80 HP ! & in 1964 the 164 C. I. was introduced which came in at 95 HP standard , & the 110 HP engine was optional , & the Turbo Charged engine remained at 150 HP since its introduction in 1962 , & was optional as well ! There are a couple of books I would highly recommend that will be very helpful in your rebuild ! 1st would be Corvair A History And Restoration Guide by Bill Artzberger , This book covers everything by the numbers ! 2nd would be How To Keep Your Corvair Alive ! You should be able to get these books thru Clark's . Thanks for the video .
Definitely a 102. I've run the numbers, looked at the heads. Fan could have been switched. Diff is a 64 posi. I have a couple reference books already. Will check out the others if i need more!
Had a great laugh, you certainly cut your teeth on a pretty nasty one. I did one once where I took two zip lock bags of little acorns out, they were packed up in the pistons too!
Have fun!
Great video! Hate that quadruple ouch at 19:45!
My '67s front suspension was all rusty, I expected to break a few bolts when I disassembled but nothing broke. The rear had no rust, I thought that would go smoothly but but broke 3 bolts. Arrggghhh! Had to walk away for a week. My slow-burn Covid project, and 3 years later she's all-new underneath and finally back on the road after 22 years: th-cam.com/video/JCVMGHOIG44/w-d-xo.html
Man, that's how it goes! I really think the inductive heater might change the game for me now though. Thing gets the bolts red in WAY less time than the torch. This car has a lot of rust that's not very severe, and a little (mostly body) that is pretty bad. It'll be interesting to dig in more. My rear engine mount bolts snapped off in the rear valence, so here's hoping the inductive heater helps with that- nothing else does!
You car looks like it scoots pretty well! Nice job!
The rear springs are definitely a trap for the uninformed! You can really hurt yourself if you try and change the rear shocks without realizing they hold the springs in.
Yeah they could kill you. Similar with the Saab V4 springs, which are incredibly difficult to remove. But I'll do a video on that later on in 2023 hopefully
As long as you have it that far apart, You really ought to check your flywheel for loose rivets.
Bought a new, solid flywheel!
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam, I may need to do that myself, I'm in the process of starting on my '62 Monza coupe.
Are you going to replace the clutch I hope so Ok I subscribed. Good videos thanks. Looking good hope to see it on the road
Not at this time, actually. I'm hoping the existing clutch will hold out for a while. Not a huge job to pull the drivetrain on this car when it does go. Thanks for the sub!
Do you know if it is possible to swap the suspension from a newer Corvair for the swing arm suspension? Thanks, and take care.
I suppose it depends how good you are with welding!
These early cars were praised for their handling back in the day. They just have to be driven differently than a front engine car. I would recommend going to an autocross instructional day near you to get really comfortable with it, and you'll outrun the Falcons :)
Warning Will Robinson warning!!! Do not coat the heads or cylinders. Unless you like burning up your newly refreshed engine heheheh. Actually, you would be better off with a 3.55 gearing. The 3.27 was the gear used mainly for the PG cars and wasn't good for performance, especially with a posi 4 speed car. Gratz on hitting the good combo though for the rest of the geartrain.
What's the cruising RPM for 3.55 vs 3.27? Back of the napkin math for me still suggests a pretty high RPM on the highway.
9:59 I'm also questioning why we're taking the top end apart anyway given it ran so damn good. I wouldn't be pulling the heads at all unless it had some issues with the valves, rings, pistons, or jugs.
Head guy said the valve guides were hot dogs in a hallway
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam Hah. Well it certainly didn't run like they were bad, but hey.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam Funny you come back to me now. I've got a more or less same period chevy of my own to tinker with now. 71 C10. 250/3spd. Been in my family since it was new!
@@TestECull This one's got to be dead reliable. No messing around, no chances. Have fun with the truck! Love the sixes. You might enjoy my F600 videos. That's got a 262.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam Heh, ye. I'm at the point where I don't even want a V8 in my half ton truck anymore. I've been spoiled by Ford's 300 so much that I'm already to the point I won't buy an F-150 if it doesn't have the 4.9 in it. It's a hard dealbreaker! 300 or bust. And there's no reason the Chev 250 I inherited will be any different. I don't expect to have to do much more to it than a tuneup and a PM service to have that engine road ready again even though it's sat dormant in a garage since 2003.
Smooth, reliable, immortally long lived, easily serviceable gas sippers with gobs of torque right off idle. Perfection.
Been glancing at that thing here and there. Ol Y-block in it. Gotta be underpowered as hell but that's what they did back then. The brakes on those things are an absolute nightmare and I'm pretty sure you're in the middle of that with it right now. Or at least, recently?
Are you going to install a camber compensator?
Maybe in the future. Currently going for limit straps and I'll see how it feels.