PERFECT! I am going to add a portable bandsaw soon and didn't want to have to make some fancy schmancy stand. This is perfect. It's quick, it's easy to build, and it does its job! Thanks, John!
Awesome Man I've seen many videos but alot of them are in silence but I prefer to watch ur videos! You explain things just perfect I love ur videos bro! GOD bless you 👍🏽
Great design! I bought one of the stands you mentioned and taking it out to change blades is a PITA. I do believe I’ll make one like yours....as always, simpler is better. Thanks
Have one on a Swag Off-road stand mounted on a wheeled pillar stand. Didn’t want to spend time making a stand. Connected it to a foot switch. Have a Jet wet saw but the mini saw is priceless! Spring for a foot switch! It’ll change your life.
I seen another guy make one very similar to this. Yours is better cause u raised the table so the cord doesn’t get crushed and also the handles sits in a cradle. So now I know how to make the one I’m going to do thanks for the info.
brilliant design concept! I like the fact it just hangs, its plenty stable. I will definitely try to go this route with my DeWalt. Thanks for the inspiration.
Neat layout ...but for threading in and out a cord like the 6230 modle I just got. Mine upright will only have 1 suport so no threading in or out of my cord.Don't worry about ugly welds but only the weak welds. John S. Tharnks for all the good stuff you help with.
I just picked up a Bauer(HF) porta band. I figured I'd give it a shot since it gets good reviews. I really like this design. Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow afternoon.
You can buy the quick shut-off button with the cord on amazon, 110v plug. Then just wrap the cord on the base like a vacuum for quick release. Other than that this is exactly what people expect when they look up how to do this. Good job 100%!
I have a newer version of this saw and I'm trying to decide exactly how I'm going to build my stand. There are several DIY plans online for a stand. New this saw is $300 but I got mine on craigs list very lightly used and I paid $200. And yes it's handy.
Built a similar vertical stand but wrapped the front handle in stretch wrap then molded a gob of Bondo to each of the saw's front handle supports to eliminate the play there. Gave the back or bottom handle the same treatment. It isn't pretty but the saw fits like it grew there.
John, Got mine at harbor freight. Took apart and it looks hefty gears and chain. The blades wood/metal work well have not used better ones yet. Ones I got with tool I think a little thicker and are a little tight between the guide rollers. For the price Im satisfied if it breaks tomorrow I'll get another same day (I'm supposing american flags now get made in china too.. sadly). I picked up a speed control for a router. You can set it full on or throw the switch other direction and have it set to a slower speed + On and Off. I never take the silly stick of the trigar any more. I just may overdue and get a foot switch too. Your plate is a great size kudos on the 1/2 inch aluminum and your stand simple but to the point.. what more does one need. One of my favorite go to machines now such a clean square cut ... Grinder is getting a well earned rest !
I did the same as you all I did was to get a foot pedal and wired it up to a non-switch socket in my work shop mounted on the wall. Cost about $8 to by £5 for me.
I must add that the cheap tool place is where I got my port-a-band. Best thing I ever bought from there. lol. Seriously, they do have alot of junk. It's hit or miss with HF.
Hi John - thx for the video. I have saw just like yours and think it's great! I made a stand using 2x4s and it's a little cruder than yours but does the job. Your 8"x8" aluminum table idea is what I picked up on in your video. I'm going to make one of those. The only problem, of course, is that you would have to switch it back if you wanted to take it somewheres (junk yard, etc.). Since I'm probably going to always use it in the shop as a table saw, that wouldn't be a problem for me, One thing I found is that a short (4 or 6 inch) piece of 2x4 fits in that trigger space just right to hold it down. Just depress the trigger and insert the 2x4 lengthwise and the trigger stays depressed. One drawback is that you are really stuck with a 1/2" blade which limits the curves you can cut. I checked with Milwaukee, and that is the blade width that you have to use. So it goes.
thanks for sharing. The 8x8 plate can be removed if needed, but it can also be used as a portable saw with the table in polace, it just might get in the way at times.
Go to harborfreight and pick you up one of the foot control on/off switches they carry,your saw just plugs into the control pedal and the pedal has chord that plugs into your wall outlet,i think i paid like 10 bucks for mine with a 20 off coupon,i will try and get you a pick of my setup tommorow.
Hi John - nice bit of ingenuity there! they only sell battery powered versions of those here, but I reckon you could rig up something similar to your mount that would do the job. Only problem is the 400 price tag ! Probably stuck with my grinder with a cut off blade for a while yet!
The Harbor Freight/Bauer is normally $149 and you can get it on sale with a coupon for $99 bucks and it's basically a clone of the Milwaukee and all the other brands... mine runs like a champ and can't beat the price.
Milwaukee portabands are $200-$400 today depending on model and where you get it, eBay is the best place imo and the newest models are a little bit deeper cut and you and do more long jobs with them, those are the $300-$400 ones for the money I’d find one of the standard cut models that’s $200, it will do 99.9% of what you need. I’ll also add that if you aren’t as handy at welding and all that then swag off road sells a killer table for these that’s like $100ish and they also give you a Velcro strap to hold the trigger down and they sell an excellent foot pedal that is $40ish and worth buying imo. Just make sure you buy the model saw for the table that you bought or vice versa because they’re model specific. For less then $500 you can have a metal cutting band saw that will litterally do everything you need done in any knife shop or black smith shop until you get to doing gigantic work and need a big bandsaw, this is my favorite tool at the moment it’s just a nearly perfect saw for the home shop.
Is it safe to use those old cast metal bandsaws for wood? Those belt driven with an external electric motor. I have the doubt of which atribute makes them only for wood cutting. If you change the saw's tpi and pulleys to decrease saw speed, wouldnt it be a proper metal saw?
It is safe if as you mention you change the blade and slow it way down. You would have to look up the proper speed for a metal cutting saw. In most cases it would require a jackshaft to make the needed speed reduction. Although I suppose you could go to a VFD for infinite speed control
@@BlackBearForge Black Bear Forge Thank you so much. I guess I will go with the jackshaft mod, it is easier for me as I have a few and lots of pulleys.
Thanks for posting. I've asked this question on other videos, just hoping to get an answer I can use. I have a porta-band saw blade question. I have a Harbor Freight porta-band saw that I've mounted (similar to this) on my wall. It works great but after cutting about an hour (accumulative time) the blade develops metal fatigue and little fractures develop all along the back of the blade. Eventually the blade begins to "lope" because of the fractures and subsequently breaks. The teeth are in great shape & sharp and could cut for untold hours more if not for the cracks that lead to breakage. Is this common to all porta-band saws or just Harbor Freight models? Is it just the cheap Harbor Freight blades? What is a recommended quality blade? I think the blade length is 44 1/2 inches (going from memory right now)? Looking at the guide bearings they are very, very close to the large drive wheels and this puts a sharp angle change to the blade twice on each revolution. Is this a bad design that isn't present in other higher priced models? Thanks for any advice.
I have same unit. I have fractures only when I pinch or hand hold a part that makes the tool jump. When it starts to wobble you will certainly find a crack. Mine runes the blades great. I've noticed the teeth are not even but a little wavy don't know if this is built in for vibration/radiation. I also read that these metal-wood blades may be thicker than other brand blades I also find the guide rollers a little tight. So I would definitely try a better metal-only blade to see if the breakage is eliminated. Again if you can take the time to clamp small parts on a L bracket etc. this may help. Visual inspection of turning parts I would think would give you a good idea as to the breakage if not because of sudden catch of teeth to metal. Hope some of this may help.
@@moonolyth that wave in the blades is normal. The tpi is very fine on these blades so they do that instead of using a set. The teeth are too small to try to bend individually.
Are you reading from your phone? Also, it looks like you are missing one of your boots on the saw. Then finally @ 2:00 you saw you didn't want to use any clamps, then @ 3:31 use use a clamp. lol
You do not have a Port A Band that is the trade name for the Porter Cable portable band saw. What you have is a Milwaukee portable bandsaw! Qtip vs cotton swab, Kleenex vs tissue. Just saying! 🤣🛫 I do like your stand and I agree no clamps no modes it is great!
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This is the best video on a Porta Band stand on TH-cam. Thanks for the simple design, I'm going to make one today!
Glad it was helpful!
Great stand you have I'm making one for my band saw from harbor freight I got it 3 years ago and it's been a hard-working reliable bandsaw
PERFECT! I am going to add a portable bandsaw soon and didn't want to have to make some fancy schmancy stand. This is perfect. It's quick, it's easy to build, and it does its job! Thanks, John!
This was a great help thanks John!
Glad it was useful
Awesome Man I've seen many videos but alot of them are in silence but I prefer to watch ur videos! You explain things just perfect I love ur videos bro! GOD bless you 👍🏽
I need to get someone to do my old 728 Porte Cable. Nice vid. Straight forward simple approach.
Great design! I bought one of the stands you mentioned and taking it out to change blades is a PITA. I do believe I’ll make one like yours....as always, simpler is better. Thanks
I keep hoping they will make a version of the saw designed for bench top use.
Been thinking of getting a portable band saw for a while, after watching this I defiantly will! Very useful !
All the Kennedy boxes looks like my garage. Thanks for the video
Have one on a Swag Off-road stand mounted on a wheeled pillar stand. Didn’t want to spend time making a stand. Connected it to a foot switch. Have a Jet wet saw but the mini saw is priceless! Spring for a foot switch! It’ll change your life.
for the price of the Swag stand you can buy another bandsaw stand mounted at Lowes for the same price.
That is a great design!
I seen another guy make one very similar to this. Yours is better cause u raised the table so the cord doesn’t get crushed and also the handles sits in a cradle. So now I know how to make the one I’m going to do thanks for the info.
brilliant design concept! I like the fact it just hangs, its plenty stable. I will definitely try to go this route with my DeWalt. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for taking the time for showing you stand. You have an easy to understand and informative video. Thanks.
John gives lots of the little things that helps.Yes he does...
I like this simple set up, thanks for sharing with us.
Best design I have seen. I can build this and not have to bolt anything down. Thank you for your help
Bought a new one last month, cut so sweet, just need my stand now.
Neat layout ...but for threading in and out a cord like the 6230 modle I just got.
Mine upright will only have 1 suport so no threading in or out of my cord.Don't worry about ugly welds but only the weak welds.
John S. Tharnks for all the good stuff you help with.
That sounds like a great idea, just go heavy duty on the steel.👍
Thank you for showing us your bandsaw. Great Christmas gift for me....
They are really handy to have around
LOVE IT, Man - best I've seen! Thanks!
I just picked up a Bauer(HF) porta band. I figured I'd give it a shot since it gets good reviews. I really like this design. Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow afternoon.
Good idea, thank you !
I keep saying I'm going to make a stand for my saw but never seem to get around to it. Got some nice 5" channel that'd make a good base, too.
You can buy the quick shut-off button with the cord on amazon, 110v plug. Then just wrap the cord on the base like a vacuum for quick release. Other than that this is exactly what people expect when they look up how to do this. Good job 100%!
I have a newer version of this saw and I'm trying to decide exactly how I'm going to build my stand. There are several DIY plans online for a stand. New this saw is $300 but I got mine on craigs list very lightly used and I paid $200. And yes it's handy.
Jim KK4VKZ check out Swag Off-road stand. You probably can’t build one for the price. Spring for a foot switch!
Built a similar vertical stand but wrapped the front handle in stretch wrap then molded a gob of Bondo to each of the saw's front handle supports to eliminate the play there. Gave the back or bottom handle the same treatment. It isn't pretty but the saw fits like it grew there.
Could zip tie it on and use a pedal switch? Acts like a dead mans switch also. Great video. Thanks You!
Nicely done.
John, Got mine at harbor freight. Took apart and it looks hefty gears and chain. The blades wood/metal work well have not used better ones yet. Ones I got with tool I think a little thicker and are a little tight between the guide rollers. For the price Im satisfied if it breaks tomorrow I'll get another same day (I'm supposing american flags now get made in china too.. sadly). I picked up a speed control for a router. You can set it full on or throw the switch other direction and have it set to a slower speed + On and Off. I never take the silly stick of the trigar any more. I just may overdue and get a foot switch too.
Your plate is a great size kudos on the 1/2 inch aluminum and your stand simple but to the point.. what more does one need. One of my favorite go to machines now such a clean square cut ... Grinder is getting a well earned rest !
Thanks John, I was able to pick one of these at an auction. Now I’m looking for scrap to make a stand.
You'll be glad to have it, they are a handy tool
amazing video thank you! i have the same saw and this helped give me a idea what direction i wanna go with this stand
I did the same as you all I did was to get a foot pedal and wired it up to a non-switch socket in my work shop mounted on the wall. Cost about $8 to by £5 for me.
As soon as I get a chance, I'm stealing your stand idea.😉
You just got a shout out from Gary Huston on this build...from across the pond.
Thanks for letting me know, I was a little behind in watching other videos. Pretty cool.
Geniuosly simple
Thanks
I must add that the cheap tool place is where I got my port-a-band. Best thing I ever bought from there. lol. Seriously, they do have alot of junk. It's hit or miss with HF.
Hi John - thx for the video. I have saw just like yours and think it's great! I made a stand using 2x4s and it's a little cruder than yours but does the job. Your 8"x8" aluminum table idea is what I picked up on in your video. I'm going to make one of those. The only problem, of course, is that you would have to switch it back if you wanted to take it somewheres (junk yard, etc.). Since I'm probably going to always use it in the shop as a table saw, that wouldn't be a problem for me,
One thing I found is that a short (4 or 6 inch) piece of 2x4 fits in that trigger space just right to hold it down. Just depress the trigger and insert the 2x4 lengthwise and the trigger stays depressed.
One drawback is that you are really stuck with a 1/2" blade which limits the curves you can cut. I checked with Milwaukee, and that is the blade width that you have to use. So it goes.
thanks for sharing. The 8x8 plate can be removed if needed, but it can also be used as a portable saw with the table in polace, it just might get in the way at times.
Go to harborfreight and pick you up one of the foot control on/off switches they carry,your saw just plugs into the control pedal and the pedal has chord that plugs into your wall outlet,i think i paid like 10 bucks for mine with a 20 off coupon,i will try and get you a pick of my setup tommorow.
That is certainly an option
The foot switch is a great addition!
I had no idea these were available! Thanks!
I can't wait to make a stand for mine with my everlast welder.
Hi John - nice bit of ingenuity there! they only sell battery powered versions of those here, but I reckon you could rig up something similar to your mount that would do the job. Only problem is the 400 price tag ! Probably stuck with my grinder with a cut off blade for a while yet!
An angle grinder is a wonderfully useful tool
Nice work, thank you for the video.
great video. Thanks for more awesome content.
I just watched a video of a wooden version. Nope. It’ll be steel for me. Thanks for a good design.
Yep. Great idea.
Thanks for sharing
You can buy a foot pedal on/off switch that would be great for this setup. Plug the pedal into the wall, and the tool into the pedal.
You can, but I don't like adding anything else to the collection of stuff on the floor
1) simple, yet very great idea.
2) your L shaped ruler that you use all the time, were did you get it?
The ruler is made by modifying a square.
Switzers famous Band on a Stand
The Harbor Freight/Bauer is normally $149 and you can get it on sale with a coupon for $99 bucks and it's basically a clone of the Milwaukee and all the other brands... mine runs like a champ and can't beat the price.
Milwaukee portabands are $200-$400 today depending on model and where you get it, eBay is the best place imo and the newest models are a little bit deeper cut and you and do more long jobs with them, those are the $300-$400 ones for the money I’d find one of the standard cut models that’s $200, it will do 99.9% of what you need. I’ll also add that if you aren’t as handy at welding and all that then swag off road sells a killer table for these that’s like $100ish and they also give you a Velcro strap to hold the trigger down and they sell an excellent foot pedal that is $40ish and worth buying imo. Just make sure you buy the model saw for the table that you bought or vice versa because they’re model specific. For less then $500 you can have a metal cutting band saw that will litterally do everything you need done in any knife shop or black smith shop until you get to doing gigantic work and need a big bandsaw, this is my favorite tool at the moment it’s just a nearly perfect saw for the home shop.
I really want to use my everlast welder to make one of these stands.
A strip of velcro will hold that trigger. Just wrap velcro around the trigger
You mean the store that sells tools you aren't worried about loosing. I like tools I can drop in water and not start crying over.
John, does the relief cut in the table that extends from the blade to the front of the table allow blade changes with out table removal?
I bought a 22 year old minty Milwaukee for $150. Could've bought a Horror Fright clone saw brand new for less, but as you say.................
Is it safe to use those old cast metal bandsaws for wood? Those belt driven with an external electric motor. I have the doubt of which atribute makes them only for wood cutting.
If you change the saw's tpi and pulleys to decrease saw speed, wouldnt it be a proper metal saw?
It is safe if as you mention you change the blade and slow it way down. You would have to look up the proper speed for a metal cutting saw. In most cases it would require a jackshaft to make the needed speed reduction. Although I suppose you could go to a VFD for infinite speed control
@@BlackBearForge Black Bear Forge Thank you so much.
I guess I will go with the jackshaft mod, it is easier for me as I have a few and lots of pulleys.
Thanks for posting. I've asked this question on other videos, just hoping to get an answer I can use. I have a porta-band saw blade question. I have a Harbor Freight porta-band saw that I've mounted (similar to this) on my wall. It works great but after cutting about an hour (accumulative time) the blade develops metal fatigue and little fractures develop all along the back of the blade. Eventually the blade begins to "lope" because of the fractures and subsequently breaks. The teeth are in great shape & sharp and could cut for untold hours more if not for the cracks that lead to breakage. Is this common to all porta-band saws or just Harbor Freight models? Is it just the cheap Harbor Freight blades? What is a recommended quality blade? I think the blade length is 44 1/2 inches (going from memory right now)? Looking at the guide bearings they are very, very close to the large drive wheels and this puts a sharp angle change to the blade twice on each revolution. Is this a bad design that isn't present in other higher priced models? Thanks for any advice.
I suspect it is a blade problem. If the blade size is the same trying buying from an industrial supplier
I have same unit. I have fractures only when I pinch or hand hold a part that makes the tool jump. When it starts to wobble you will certainly find a crack. Mine runes the blades great. I've noticed the teeth are not even but a little wavy don't know if this is built in for vibration/radiation. I also read that these metal-wood blades may be thicker than other brand blades I also find the guide rollers a little tight. So I would definitely try a better metal-only blade to see if the breakage is eliminated. Again if you can take the time to clamp small parts on a L bracket etc. this may help. Visual inspection of turning parts I would think would give you a good idea as to the breakage if not because of sudden catch of teeth to metal. Hope some of this may help.
@@moonolyth that wave in the blades is normal. The tpi is very fine on these blades so they do that instead of using a set. The teeth are too small to try to bend individually.
@@Worrsaint wave in the blades.. No set , finer cut Make sense to me !
HWPcville Lenox Bi-metal blades... nothing better... about $10 each.
I can buy a foot switch for it.
I have one for mine, I think I would prefer a simple toggle switch
you know people talk shit about harbor frieght but it where do they go if they need something for cheap they go to Haebor Freight.
Are you reading from your phone? Also, it looks like you are missing one of your boots on the saw. Then finally @ 2:00 you saw you didn't want to use any clamps, then @ 3:31 use use a clamp. lol
You do not have a Port A Band that is the trade name for the Porter Cable portable band saw. What you have is a Milwaukee portable bandsaw!
Qtip vs cotton swab, Kleenex vs tissue. Just saying! 🤣🛫 I do like your stand and I agree no clamps no modes it is great!
5 inch readily my behind. Vid or it didn't happen.