It absolutely can and I can show it on an oscilloscope on my repair bench without even installing it or hooking a speaker to it. Though a speaker acts as an indicator which filters noise especially on class d circuits which most headunits are from what I have seen noise from head units isn't coming from the amplifier ic. See my other response to ashleyrobinson for a bit more detail.
Can you list the other components that you installed. I also like clear audio and was wondering what brands you use,since you seem to not buy, just for name brand. Amp and speaker brands?
I don't have any brand loyalty. I also repair equipment and have seen how easily brand loyalty will get you taken advantage of. A lot of name brands are using the same boards as cheaper brands. Not always but often you can find the same component for cheaper as long as you don't care about brand. That being said all the other components in this truck are name brands and with the exception of one I would consider high quality as well. However, these are all components that I repaired that I got as non working. Memphis m class 6x9 components, these were warranty returns back in 2005 for blown tweeters back when I was a Memphis dealer. I just replaced the tweeters from my inventory which I paid for and memphis replaced the entire 6x9 set for the customer. Pioneer components in the rear. Same situation except not under warranty, customer wanted to throw them away. I gave him $20 off of his total. Replaced the blown tweeters with memphis ones from inventory, still running the pioneer crossover. These components are from the 90s Alpine pdx-f6 on the speakers, decent amp. Kicker zx1500.1 in my opinion these are overpriced and not very good. It's pushing 3 jl8w1 so I don't need much power anyways and am not worried about reliability as it's not working had at all to push those subs.
Idk I have had every double din since they first came out an before that I had the flip out single din. I mean I have had from alpine kenwood pioneer eclipse I mean every model from basic to the best one . An all of them had dimmer switch on them it has always been the orange wire in the harness. Idk but I could go on with kenwood an pioneer color change buttons an it’s just like you never seen a radio before cause idk I only used the top line brands anything else is just not good. An engine noises is a bad ground that is widely known so upgrade your 8 gauge wire to a minimum of 4 gauge but zero is what all the kids use today so I always have to go with the best at the time so idk u may have been in a small country town stereo store cause I had a cousin who thought he was beating from his small town store an when he came to visit me he couldn’t believe he paid all that money on junk so I sent him home with some of my old stuff that was still like new an he showed them what real beats sound like from the city boys .
No I get it, I am master certified mecp installer, from 25 years ago. And while I do not do that anymore I agree with quality products, I owned a custom shop back in the early 2000s and was primarily a Memphis car audio dealer but also a dealer for clif designs and sold a few other brands we bought from distributors but were not dealers for. I understand how the dimmer circuit works lol, however, if you have a vehicle that has drls that activate the dimmer wire it's nice to be able to have easy control over that function. I still repair equipment to this day and I am confident when I say name brands aren't what they used to be. As far as units with the exception of maybe a few specific models they aren't even unique internally brand to brand anymore. It's been that way for amplifiers and subwoofers for a long time. It's a fun conversation to have with someone bringing me their high dollar sundown full bridge amp and I tell them it would just be cheaper to buy a sound stream full bridge instead of fixing this one because it's the identical board. Or how their salt amp is actually no different electrically than the previous models which also use the same exact board as skar, db drive, etc etc etc... In regards to engine noise, while ground loop is one example of how noise can be introduced, there are many others as well. While my 20 year old discrete ofc is old, I can assure you that was not the issue. Neither will wire being too small be cause noise. Yes I only run 4ga but it's more than enough for my 2 small amps and 3 JL 8w1. My truck is a turbo lq4 sleeper so having a windy heavy build isn't the goal in this vehicle. The issue I have seen with noise being introduced in head units, and and this goes back to cheap early headunits even in the 90s especially the early Jensen flip out head units sold at Walmart, is the internal low voltage power supplies used the drive the logic ICs are bare minimum with little to no filtering and little to no regulation so the noise was actually being generated in the a/d converter. I actually spent a large amount of time albeit unsuccessfully trying to modify a Jensen flip out to not have noise I tried everything from a standalone low voltage power supply circuit to adding an optocoupler to the low voltage circuit and while it improved the noise floor, it still wasn't where it should be. We also saw the same phenomenon in accelevision flip downs back in the early 2000s which at the time was considered the best you could buy. We installed these everyday in brand new cars for dealers back then made a fortune. Never had a complaint about the noise really as it wasn't too bad but I was never happy with it and accelevision was also aware and "was working on it" Maybe don't assume so much, there is a lot of bad information floating around the car audio industry and even more bogus marketing. Unfortunately, today nearly all the brands are blowing smoke and you will get taken advantage of by being brand loyal. Much better to be educated.
Nice. And here im looking for a replacement for my 03 GMC.
This will be great for my 04 E150 cargo van
“Noise” doesn’t come from the head unit. It comes shady wiring jobs
It absolutely can and I can show it on an oscilloscope on my repair bench without even installing it or hooking a speaker to it. Though a speaker acts as an indicator which filters noise especially on class d circuits which most headunits are from what I have seen noise from head units isn't coming from the amplifier ic. See my other response to ashleyrobinson for a bit more detail.
Can you list the other components that you installed. I also like clear audio and was wondering what brands you use,since you seem to not buy, just for name brand. Amp and speaker brands?
I don't have any brand loyalty. I also repair equipment and have seen how easily brand loyalty will get you taken advantage of. A lot of name brands are using the same boards as cheaper brands. Not always but often you can find the same component for cheaper as long as you don't care about brand.
That being said all the other components in this truck are name brands and with the exception of one I would consider high quality as well. However, these are all components that I repaired that I got as non working.
Memphis m class 6x9 components, these were warranty returns back in 2005 for blown tweeters back when I was a Memphis dealer. I just replaced the tweeters from my inventory which I paid for and memphis replaced the entire 6x9 set for the customer.
Pioneer components in the rear. Same situation except not under warranty, customer wanted to throw them away. I gave him $20 off of his total. Replaced the blown tweeters with memphis ones from inventory, still running the pioneer crossover. These components are from the 90s
Alpine pdx-f6 on the speakers, decent amp.
Kicker zx1500.1 in my opinion these are overpriced and not very good. It's pushing 3 jl8w1 so I don't need much power anyways and am not worried about reliability as it's not working had at all to push those subs.
@guidosgarage1176 ok thanks
Idk I have had every double din since they first came out an before that I had the flip out single din. I mean I have had from alpine kenwood pioneer eclipse I mean every model from basic to the best one . An all of them had dimmer switch on them it has always been the orange wire in the harness. Idk but I could go on with kenwood an pioneer color change buttons an it’s just like you never seen a radio before cause idk I only used the top line brands anything else is just not good. An engine noises is a bad ground that is widely known so upgrade your 8 gauge wire to a minimum of 4 gauge but zero is what all the kids use today so I always have to go with the best at the time so idk u may have been in a small country town stereo store cause I had a cousin who thought he was beating from his small town store an when he came to visit me he couldn’t believe he paid all that money on junk so I sent him home with some of my old stuff that was still like new an he showed them what real beats sound like from the city boys .
No I get it, I am master certified mecp installer, from 25 years ago. And while I do not do that anymore I agree with quality products, I owned a custom shop back in the early 2000s and was primarily a Memphis car audio dealer but also a dealer for clif designs and sold a few other brands we bought from distributors but were not dealers for.
I understand how the dimmer circuit works lol, however, if you have a vehicle that has drls that activate the dimmer wire it's nice to be able to have easy control over that function.
I still repair equipment to this day and I am confident when I say name brands aren't what they used to be. As far as units with the exception of maybe a few specific models they aren't even unique internally brand to brand anymore. It's been that way for amplifiers and subwoofers for a long time. It's a fun conversation to have with someone bringing me their high dollar sundown full bridge amp and I tell them it would just be cheaper to buy a sound stream full bridge instead of fixing this one because it's the identical board. Or how their salt amp is actually no different electrically than the previous models which also use the same exact board as skar, db drive, etc etc etc...
In regards to engine noise, while ground loop is one example of how noise can be introduced, there are many others as well. While my 20 year old discrete ofc is old, I can assure you that was not the issue. Neither will wire being too small be cause noise. Yes I only run 4ga but it's more than enough for my 2 small amps and 3 JL 8w1. My truck is a turbo lq4 sleeper so having a windy heavy build isn't the goal in this vehicle.
The issue I have seen with noise being introduced in head units, and and this goes back to cheap early headunits even in the 90s especially the early Jensen flip out head units sold at Walmart, is the internal low voltage power supplies used the drive the logic ICs are bare minimum with little to no filtering and little to no regulation so the noise was actually being generated in the a/d converter. I actually spent a large amount of time albeit unsuccessfully trying to modify a Jensen flip out to not have noise I tried everything from a standalone low voltage power supply circuit to adding an optocoupler to the low voltage circuit and while it improved the noise floor, it still wasn't where it should be.
We also saw the same phenomenon in accelevision flip downs back in the early 2000s which at the time was considered the best you could buy. We installed these everyday in brand new cars for dealers back then made a fortune. Never had a complaint about the noise really as it wasn't too bad but I was never happy with it and accelevision was also aware and "was working on it"
Maybe don't assume so much, there is a lot of bad information floating around the car audio industry and even more bogus marketing. Unfortunately, today nearly all the brands are blowing smoke and you will get taken advantage of by being brand loyal. Much better to be educated.