วีดีโอ

Working great, no issues. I also have the super Richie cam aka truck plus that I may swap in to try. I have a 3600 stall on the truck so I could sacrifice some low end and not notice. Right now it just melts tires if you hit at low speed. I have two more LS engines that I am assembling for other projects and will either be buying another low buck truck or super Richie for those engines.

Yes

@ that’s pretty neat. I didn’t realize that he was selling literal Truck Norris cams as his own. And I watch every Holdener video and live. I don’t think he mentioned that once.

It's okay, I think it's a good candidate for .030 over and a 4" stroker crank which takes it from a 364 to a 408.

I also have the truck plus cam which I may be swapping in soon to try it out.

No I get it, I am master certified mecp installer, from 25 years ago. And while I do not do that anymore I agree with quality products, I owned a custom shop back in the early 2000s and was primarily a Memphis car audio dealer but also a dealer for clif designs and sold a few other brands we bought from distributors but were not dealers for. I understand how the dimmer circuit works lol, however, if you have a vehicle that has drls that activate the dimmer wire it's nice to be able to have easy control over that function. I still repair equipment to this day and I am confident when I say name brands aren't what they used to be. As far as units with the exception of maybe a few specific models they aren't even unique internally brand to brand anymore. It's been that way for amplifiers and subwoofers for a long time. It's a fun conversation to have with someone bringing me their high dollar sundown full bridge amp and I tell them it would just be cheaper to buy a sound stream full bridge instead of fixing this one because it's the identical board. Or how their salt amp is actually no different electrically than the previous models which also use the same exact board as skar, db drive, etc etc etc... In regards to engine noise, while ground loop is one example of how noise can be introduced, there are many others as well. While my 20 year old discrete ofc is old, I can assure you that was not the issue. Neither will wire being too small be cause noise. Yes I only run 4ga but it's more than enough for my 2 small amps and 3 JL 8w1. My truck is a turbo lq4 sleeper so having a windy heavy build isn't the goal in this vehicle. The issue I have seen with noise being introduced in head units, and and this goes back to cheap early headunits even in the 90s especially the early Jensen flip out head units sold at Walmart, is the internal low voltage power supplies used the drive the logic ICs are bare minimum with little to no filtering and little to no regulation so the noise was actually being generated in the a/d converter. I actually spent a large amount of time albeit unsuccessfully trying to modify a Jensen flip out to not have noise I tried everything from a standalone low voltage power supply circuit to adding an optocoupler to the low voltage circuit and while it improved the noise floor, it still wasn't where it should be. We also saw the same phenomenon in accelevision flip downs back in the early 2000s which at the time was considered the best you could buy. We installed these everyday in brand new cars for dealers back then made a fortune. Never had a complaint about the noise really as it wasn't too bad but I was never happy with it and accelevision was also aware and "was working on it" Maybe don't assume so much, there is a lot of bad information floating around the car audio industry and even more bogus marketing. Unfortunately, today nearly all the brands are blowing smoke and you will get taken advantage of by being brand loyal. Much better to be educated.

Unfortunately not, my truck is turbo and running speed density

It absolutely can and I can show it on an oscilloscope on my repair bench without even installing it or hooking a speaker to it. Though a speaker acts as an indicator which filters noise especially on class d circuits which most headunits are from what I have seen noise from head units isn't coming from the amplifier ic. See my other response to ashleyrobinson for a bit more detail.

I don't have any brand loyalty. I also repair equipment and have seen how easily brand loyalty will get you taken advantage of. A lot of name brands are using the same boards as cheaper brands. Not always but often you can find the same component for cheaper as long as you don't care about brand. That being said all the other components in this truck are name brands and with the exception of one I would consider high quality as well. However, these are all components that I repaired that I got as non working. Memphis m class 6x9 components, these were warranty returns back in 2005 for blown tweeters back when I was a Memphis dealer. I just replaced the tweeters from my inventory which I paid for and memphis replaced the entire 6x9 set for the customer. Pioneer components in the rear. Same situation except not under warranty, customer wanted to throw them away. I gave him $20 off of his total. Replaced the blown tweeters with memphis ones from inventory, still running the pioneer crossover. These components are from the 90s Alpine pdx-f6 on the speakers, decent amp. Kicker zx1500.1 in my opinion these are overpriced and not very good. It's pushing 3 jl8w1 so I don't need much power anyways and am not worried about reliability as it's not working had at all to push those subs.

@guidosgarage1176 ok thanks

You don't understand camshafts at all. Duration moves the power band up in the RPM range, while lobe separation angle shifts the powerband from the low end to the top end. Wider LSA = better low end torque, sacrificing peak power. Narrow LSA = better peak power, sacrificing low end torque.

TF are you talking about?

@@CULT539 how camshaft duration and lobe separation angle works. Are you confused about the original comment or my reply?

You mean the grease? No, grease is not something to worry about

Yea as boost1728 said just some grease on there

I didn't notice any imperfections, maybe it's a reflection? Quality seems fine, truck is running great and very fast with s475 turbo.

@@guidosgarage1176looks like on the far right the lobe has some “dents” Either way good buy! Certainly saved some coin

Had to rewatch the video. I see what your talking about now. That's actually assembly lube, specifically the Lucas brand. The reflection does look like dents kinda though. Good eye!

Mine came in the other day on inspection it looks mint I might order the the low buck plus just because

How's it holding up a month later?

I have been told it can get a little smoother but it will never have a stock like idle.

You can tune out the chop entirely, but it will still lope a little.

I appreciate all your videos, learned a lot from yall

Or... Just take it off ffs

@Mmouse_ for a vehicle where its easy sure, ls is easy to work on. But for a lot of rigs you have to pull the engine to drop the pan. In which case I'm drilling it on the truck 100%. Those shaving will NEVER do any harm. If by some miracle they make it up into the oil pickup and through the screen, the oil filter will catch them. It's like that's why they put it there or something........

Some pans require you to drop the crossmember, remove axles, and needing a re-alignment if the rack is disturbed.

@Cragified like I said, not hard to get to 🤣

That is a lot just for a pan. I have a Chrysler and both pans can be dropped without doing any of that. My transmission went 195k n the only thing that went out is a solenoid pack. gM is 🗑️​@@Dpom3r

Some are one time use pans. Imagine that.

Did you decide to run them? A guy locally to me is running them in his nitrous motor street setup, we used the same machine shop for balancing and they told him they will be fine as long as he isn’t spinning really high rpm’s all the time like on a race motor.

Apparently I didn't either at the time lol

Yea I'm testing that theory, so far it's running fine. Haven't hit it with boost yet though, have an s475 sitting here waiting on my to build the piping. I have spent a lot of time bouncing it off the rev limiter though and no sign of head gasket issues

Why not? Engine is running fine and making great power. Have you had a bad experience doing it this way?

Nope

What other tool would you use to open up the ports with?

I don't think I can get my tig torch down in there. Would be neat to see someone tig that up though, I'm sure with a special torch or alot of skill you could get down in there.

Good tip, I will try that. I cant remember what oil I put in mine but I replaced the pump on it recently

@guidosgarage1176 When we gave it to a friend to use for his CNC machine that cut CV Axles. That compressor ran 18 hours a day and never shut off. He had the same compressor with conventional oil and it would get hot and throw the breaker. Not sponsored by Amsoil!!! ROFLMFAO!!! Just passing experience along that may help some one else. When my brother said he was going to change the oil to that. I said yea what ever. Oil is oil. I was young and dumb I guess lol. He used to run Amsoil in his 2 stroke mopeds back in the 80s. I remember when a salesmen was walking down the street and sold him some 2 stroke oil for the mopeds. Lol. Wow that was a long time ago.

@guidosgarage1176 Sorry it was Amsoil air compressor oil. I'm sure you figured that out. Just checking bases off lol.

Yea, I think a lot of people confuse scotch-lok or roloc disc with scotch Brite. This is a soft scuff pad like scotch bright, not the harder roloc material that gouges the metal. I wouldn't recommend using a roloc on the head surface.

There is a s475 sitting here waiting on it to get done

I was just gonna comment that hahaha.

Yea, I am beginning to think the same thing. Would have made a nice 400

This time, unfortunately 😆

@@guidosgarage1176 been there