Hi Dermot, great video - you'll already have a load of advice from the MIG welding forum, almost endless amount of knowledge from the folk on there! One thing we spotted, we'd recommend turning the gas off at the bottle when you're not using it, there's always a chance of a little leak which can go unnoticed, might save yourself a bit of gas :) - practice makes perfect, keep up the good work!
Hello Dermot I have had this problem on wheel arches as well! I battled it for years, I think you are having the same problem I was getting. I found it to be heavily oxidised steel in these patches. I clean the work with a twisted wire (ZIP) wheel on the angle grinder and then I make up a 10 - 15% w/w phosphate solution in tap water from 88% w/w phosphoric acid - its cheap you can get a gallon for 20 quid they use it to clean milking machines. I paint this solution on the cleaned steel with a one inch brush and if it fizzes up you are in business scrub well in with wire wool or a with a Steel wire hand brush - it pulls the free iron oxides out of the steel. Allow it to dry off overnight and when you come back you may well find a black scab formed over the area or in light cases a golden area. Wire brush and repeat sometimes you have to do this up to four times. you are basically washing the rust from inside the steel grain. when correctly finished the steel will be a light blue grey. It will most likely be pitted to hell. But this will help you navigate around the rust - I cut out the bad stuff and mark bigger repair sections and wire brush to shiny metal before welding - I use the same settings you have happened upon. I put a 1/4” copper plate behind the welds as well to get more welding power in before holing the panels! Don’t despair you work is good! My Triumph 2000 gave me hell! Oh and I double glove, surgical gloves under PVC gauntlets and a face shield - you don’t want this stuff on your skin! Hope this helps? Chin up and keep up the fight!
Thanks for sharing, what diameter wire are you using? Could step it up a mm or 2. If you have the access maybe putting a large heat sink on the back end of that rear wing would help it not blow through so fast. Keep posting I'll keep watching 👍
I know we all hate to hear this, but sometimes you got to bite the bullet and get the inner panel. Why? Because the rust has spread farther than you can see.
Thanks for sharing dermot. Your experiences here will defo shape how i go about repairing mine. Not easy this stuff is it 😉
Hi Dermot, great video - you'll already have a load of advice from the MIG welding forum, almost endless amount of knowledge from the folk on there! One thing we spotted, we'd recommend turning the gas off at the bottle when you're not using it, there's always a chance of a little leak which can go unnoticed, might save yourself a bit of gas :) - practice makes perfect, keep up the good work!
Hi
Yes I've made a habit of turning the gas off when not using it, and yes it does seem to last that much longer.👍
I like your content! plain & simple commentary & dealing with the real issues with a Morris, keep it going Dermot!
Hello Dermot I have had this problem on wheel arches as well! I battled it for years, I think you are having the same problem I was getting. I found it to be heavily oxidised steel in these patches. I clean the work with a twisted wire (ZIP) wheel on the angle grinder and then I make up a 10 - 15% w/w phosphate solution in tap water from 88% w/w phosphoric acid - its cheap you can get a gallon for 20 quid they use it to clean milking machines.
I paint this solution on the cleaned steel with a one inch brush and if it fizzes up you are in business scrub well in with wire wool or a with a
Steel wire hand brush - it pulls the free iron oxides out of the steel. Allow it to dry off overnight and when you come back you may well find a black scab formed over the area or in light cases a golden area. Wire brush and repeat sometimes you have to do this up to four times. you are basically washing the rust from inside the steel grain. when correctly finished the steel will be a light blue grey. It will most likely be pitted to hell.
But this will help you navigate around the rust - I cut out the bad stuff and mark bigger repair sections and wire brush to shiny metal before welding - I use the same settings you have happened upon. I put a 1/4” copper plate behind the welds as well to get more welding power in before holing the panels!
Don’t despair you work is good! My Triumph 2000 gave me hell!
Oh and I double glove, surgical gloves under PVC gauntlets and a face shield - you don’t want this stuff on your skin!
Hope this helps? Chin up and keep up the fight!
Thanks for sharing, what diameter wire are you using? Could step it up a mm or 2. If you have the access maybe putting a large heat sink on the back end of that rear wing would help it not blow through so fast. Keep posting I'll keep watching 👍
Hi, I have the same welder as you. I tend to use flux cored wire,
We all have to start somewhere, you’re having a go that’s the main thing so well done don’t lose heart you’re going to get there in the end 👍
Hi Rob, Thanks for the comment, the videos are there as I didn't have anything to go on when I started,so if they help one person I'm happy.
hi what size of filler wire you are using
I know we all hate to hear this, but sometimes you got to bite the bullet and get the inner panel. Why? Because the rust has spread farther than you can see.