That is very weird with a factory amp. But the optical fiber must be for sound transmission so you won't have to deal with it. You have to check the power wiring but all stock amps are different so get a factory wiring diagram to identify the correct cables.
I appreciate the information in this video, but a couple things. 1 the remote is designed to turn on the amp, and 12 volts is too high, usually 6V is max. Yours was around 10V which is why you’re hear the pop, that’s why people recommend resistors as a solution. 2nd, connecting it to ACC is 12V, which is more than 6V max, and should remain 12V because the other things that you’ll plug into it need 12V, so adding resistors to that is not good. 3rd, you said to connect remote to ACC but you connected it to yellow, which is constant 12v, directly to car battery, so it will always be on which will solve the popping because it never turns off or on. But the issue is it become Parasitic Draw and will kill your battery
Thank you for your inputs. About your comments: 1-Most modern head units have an stated output of 12V for the remote wire and the remote input on amplifiers are matched to the same voltage. It is even stated on both user manuals of the particular units shown in the video. 2-The ACC is indeed 12V, which matches AMP spec 3-In my case, the yellow wire is not constant 12V beacuse that is a custom made connector and not the actual car harness. The yellow wire in such connector was hooked to the ACC line from the ignition key which was brown color in the car. I made that connector because there are other items that requierd ACC power such as parking camera, exhaust cutout, dashcam, etc.
It’s this just temporary or can leave it connected that way all the time ? I mean there’s no problem to leave the remote connected to the accessory cable ?
Hello sir. Very nice video. In my case, my player produce same "POP" sound like yours. But I don't have external ampilifier connected to my player and speaker. My speaker connected directly from the back of the player. So, how?
@@oniesma Then it should be a problem with the amplifier circuit inside your head unit. I know itbis difficult but you can try hooking up anothe head unit and see if the problem persists.
greetings! I have the same problem but with my equalizer. Where can I connect the remote equalizer cable so that this delay problem doesn't happen to me and when I turn off my car it causes that loud knock?
That would be your head unit turning on AFTER the amplifier. Your amplifier must have the remote signal (usually the blue cable) coming from the head unit and not from the car's 12V source.
@@grandoFAST Thank you for the reply. I didn't do anything to the system, i did not install anything new, everything was working fine.. just recently it started happening by itself. Sir, can you please suggest the solution.
@@Thubden4 If your system is original, the you should have it checked by an expert in car audio or car electrician because i don't know what could be the possible cause.
Im having a problem with my system where when I turn my car off if I open the door before everything shuts off completely my subs will burp at max volume for 5-10 seconds and im afraid it's going to damage something on my speakers any idea how to fix it
If your car has an aftermarket amplifier or even a factory amplifier, then that is the first thing you might want to check. If there is no amplifier, then the head unit might be causing the trouble. Finally check if any of the speakers might have wires touching any ground.
@@grandoFAST ok thanks man I got the day off and trying to learn everything myself and yeah I have a spaghetti mess of wires all running down the drivers side of the car going to tear it apart and run everything down the passenger side except power/ground and see if that helps also does everything need to be grounded separately like amp , batteries etc. reason I'm asking is I have several batteries and amp LOC , super caps,etc and some of these are grounded together because I am still learning and I just read on Google that it can possibly cause the same problem if everything isn't grounded properly it said I've got all the main things grounded separately but if I need to ground everything separately I will just don't know for sure what to do
@@SleepdaBanga thank you I will fix it this weekend just got a new deafbonce AAK 6k and I definitely don't want anything like this happening with that expensive thing
Very odd to have that situation in a factory stereo. However it is possible if there is a factory external amplifier. You will have to test all the radio harness to identify power to the amp.
OK, not to bash, but that only fixes one problem if you wanna turn the head unit off amplifier stays on overall it does eliminate the problem, but the better fix is to use a relay
@@tyroneharris1548 That is right. Right now i have a very slight hiss and i would like to turn off my amp so maybe i can use the relay or even an external switch.
Thank you so much! It fixed my problem that I had subwoofer loud pop when turning key off, never thought about wiring rem wire to acc from head unit.
Glad it worked for you!
Thank you so much for this video. I am in the situation where i have a factory amplifier and it uses optical fiber… how do I do this in this case..?
That is very weird with a factory amp. But the optical fiber must be for sound transmission so you won't have to deal with it. You have to check the power wiring but all stock amps are different so get a factory wiring diagram to identify the correct cables.
Nice job
Thanks!
I appreciate the information in this video, but a couple things. 1 the remote is designed to turn on the amp, and 12 volts is too high, usually 6V is max. Yours was around 10V which is why you’re hear the pop, that’s why people recommend resistors as a solution. 2nd, connecting it to ACC is 12V, which is more than 6V max, and should remain 12V because the other things that you’ll plug into it need 12V, so adding resistors to that is not good. 3rd, you said to connect remote to ACC but you connected it to yellow, which is constant 12v, directly to car battery, so it will always be on which will solve the popping because it never turns off or on. But the issue is it become Parasitic Draw and will kill your battery
Thank you for your inputs. About your comments: 1-Most modern head units have an stated output of 12V for the remote wire and the remote input on amplifiers are matched to the same voltage. It is even stated on both user manuals of the particular units shown in the video. 2-The ACC is indeed 12V, which matches AMP spec 3-In my case, the yellow wire is not constant 12V beacuse that is a custom made connector and not the actual car harness. The yellow wire in such connector was hooked to the ACC line from the ignition key which was brown color in the car. I made that connector because there are other items that requierd ACC power such as parking camera, exhaust cutout, dashcam, etc.
I just fixed mines from doing it the same way thanks
It’s this just temporary or can leave it connected that way all the time ?
I mean there’s no problem to leave the remote connected to the accessory cable ?
No problem. You can leave it that way. It's been more than a year since i did it and still working great.
Hello sir. Very nice video. In my case, my player produce same "POP" sound like yours. But I don't have external ampilifier connected to my player and speaker. My speaker connected directly from the back of the player. So, how?
@@oniesma Then it should be a problem with the amplifier circuit inside your head unit. I know itbis difficult but you can try hooking up anothe head unit and see if the problem persists.
greetings! I have the same problem but with my equalizer. Where can I connect the remote equalizer cable so that this delay problem doesn't happen to me and when I turn off my car it causes that loud knock?
@@wsupreme1768 You could try to the cars Accesory 12v source as in the video. That way it should turn off before the amp.
My speaker make loud pop/explosion sound only when i turn key on. What would be the cause? Please help me
That would be your head unit turning on AFTER the amplifier. Your amplifier must have the remote signal (usually the blue cable) coming from the head unit and not from the car's 12V source.
@@grandoFAST Thank you for the reply. I didn't do anything to the system, i did not install anything new, everything was working fine.. just recently it started happening by itself. Sir, can you please suggest the solution.
@@Thubden4 If your system is original, the you should have it checked by an expert in car audio or car electrician because i don't know what could be the possible cause.
@@Thubden4 Same issue here too buddy, did you resolve it?
@@aakudev nope.. I'm using as it is, no other option
Im having a problem with my system where when I turn my car off if I open the door before everything shuts off completely my subs will burp at max volume for 5-10 seconds and im afraid it's going to damage something on my speakers any idea how to fix it
If your car has an aftermarket amplifier or even a factory amplifier, then that is the first thing you might want to check. If there is no amplifier, then the head unit might be causing the trouble. Finally check if any of the speakers might have wires touching any ground.
@@grandoFAST ok thanks man I got the day off and trying to learn everything myself and yeah I have a spaghetti mess of wires all running down the drivers side of the car going to tear it apart and run everything down the passenger side except power/ground and see if that helps also does everything need to be grounded separately like amp , batteries etc. reason I'm asking is I have several batteries and amp LOC , super caps,etc and some of these are grounded together because I am still learning and I just read on Google that it can possibly cause the same problem if everything isn't grounded properly it said I've got all the main things grounded separately but if I need to ground everything separately I will just don't know for sure what to do
@@SlamryCamry19did you ever figure it i’m having the same problem
So you take the blue/white wire that comes from the radio & the blue amp wire from amp & just hook the both up to the ACC WIRE??
@@SleepdaBanga thank you I will fix it this weekend just got a new deafbonce AAK 6k and I definitely don't want anything like this happening with that expensive thing
My power from my speaker wire are powering my amp my pop is more then urs will scare u
Wondering if there is a way to resolve this with the factory radio.
Very odd to have that situation in a factory stereo. However it is possible if there is a factory external amplifier. You will have to test all the radio harness to identify power to the amp.
@@grandoFAST thanks for the advice, I will do that.
@@grandoFAST indeed, when choosing the right current the issue cleared. Thank You.
I wished this worked for me but it didn't. It still popped on turn off and turn on. With a delay in place turn on was good but issue is turn off.
Sorry it didn't work for you. Maybe is time to look for a professional in car audio who can do a more detailed search in your system.
@grandoFAST im going to use a delay timer from aliexpress. it might work for turn off
Share results when possible.
OK, not to bash, but that only fixes one problem if you wanna turn the head unit off amplifier stays on overall it does eliminate the problem, but the better fix is to use a relay
@@tyroneharris1548 That is right. Right now i have a very slight hiss and i would like to turn off my amp so maybe i can use the relay or even an external switch.
this is happening to my tv
Why don't you just turn the stereo off before the car, like it is designed to be tuned off?
Because now days you don't turn off your stereo. You just turn off you car. Most stereos don't even have power buttons.
I don't think I've ever turned off my radio before turbo off my car. That would be a really bad design