I have used many of the same tools and have yet tried the body filler method, takes too long. I prefer Dr. Colorchip kits but pricey but very simple . It meets my acceptable rule of view from 3-feet.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again Brian. Thank you so much for doing these educational videos and giving back to the industry the way you do. 👏👏👏👏👏
Absolute genius ways of fixing the agonizing rock chips. I have watched other videos on this subject, but this is the best! Love the pencil erasure , micro sanding disc tool! Thanks for sharing Brian!
Very informative...I think rather than take any sandpaper to my Camaro, I'll just go the "fill it in with a couple of coats of paint and be done" route! Thanks for the insights!
Basically you got all of it right but there are some differences between how a detailer and a automotive painter would handle these scratches. 1) We never use lacquer putty. We would use a two part polyester glazing putty such as Metal Glaze or U-Pol Dolphin Glaze. Three reasons why: 1) It hardens and is ready to sand in 10 minutes 2) It's a much stronger repair as it's basically very refined Bondo. 3) It doesn't shrink. 2) In modern collision repair we seldom use wet sanding anymore since a number of completely dry sanding options are now available. Eagle Abrasives makes Tolex and Bufflex both of which work fabulously dry. I can highly recommend both products. If you've ever done much of it wet sanding sucks and wet sanding cleanup sucks even more. 2) We're going to paint the car anyway so we don't need to touch up anything so we would use basecoat and 2K acrylic urethane clearcoat as we would have these already mixed up and ready to go. If it's after the painting is complete or someone is willing to pay us to touch up the chips we normally have a little extra basecoat available (or can make it using our mixing bank) so we would put the base in the nicks and then mix up some clear to go over the base. I typically do this with an airbrush.
@@stevenbewick592 Hi Steve, we're about ten years behind you guys but if I can get it over here I will give it a go (just googled it UK suggests factor 50 sun screen) Dolphine I can get but Eagle abrasives dry sanding discs are International Orders from US. (10 years it will catch on here !! ) Thanks for the thought.
@@stevenbewick592 Not yet readily available here in the US. Apparently, Evercoat is working on it but to my knowledge it hasn't been released yet. The Gunman in Australia raves about it so I would like to try some out. Living in Phoenix sunlight isn't a problem.
Dr. Color Chip has the easiest and most accurate system I have ever used, even on older vehicles. Highly impressed with their product. Thank you Brian with additional tips for prepping the surface!
I have tried all the ways and what works the absolute best IMO is the Langka system using their paint for your color code vehicle. The key is to use their paint. The base coat needs no clear as it is thicker and has a nice gloss. Perfect color match too. Better than Dr.Color Chip IMO but Dr. CC is good just very hard to get a level repair. Yes it can be a big rabbit hole.
Dotting pens for nail art are another good tool. And so easy to clean after use! Come in various sizes to fit the depth and width of the paint blemishes.
If you are familiar with scrapers in woodworking, take a phillips screwdriver and drag the razors edge against the screwdriver, curls the edge so it forms a fine scraper the put tape on each end. Also scotch tape is thinner bringing edge closer to level. Helps for better control and more productive leveling, angle the draw across paint differently for more or less of a cut.Learned this in touching up guitar finishes from Dan Erlewine.
I've been doing paint repair on cars for 25 years . Of course every repair is different, maybe a small cup gun or airbrush, but on rock chips, the good quality fine tip brush is the best, regulate the flow of paint with reducer ,and of course adding clearcoat to Your paint.
These are really great tips for getting those repairs done quickly on stone chips and preventing rust from setting in and spreading. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers from Montreal, Canada!
Great post, with a lot of ideas. As a rule I’m a fill the chip with a hypodermic needle guy. Seldom get a budget to really finish them down. It’s more a “ make it look better from 5 feet away and protect the metal”. It goes with an expectation talk as well. For door jam chips and panel edge chips this works very well. Middle of a panel chips, I try and get a budget of time and money to do a little more. Love the eraser trick, I have cut strips of sand paper to minimize the area sanded on occasion with so so results.
Super video Brian! I love seeing all the tricks you use to get the job done. For rock chips on my car, I just dab some factory color into the chip with a toothpick and call it a day.
You’re amazing Brian. Seriously appreciate all of the tutorials and real world experience you provide! You have helped me immensely over the years. Thank you!
The algorithm needs more love for Brian!! People like me NEED these tips and insight (and a little hand holding)! Many thanks and well wishes, your newest sub., Vincent 👍✌️✊
With the razor blade....I keep a couple of new blades that I have cut in half with a Dremel tool in my box. They are lifesavers on more highly contoured panels. I debur the cut and slightly round the corners as well.
Your timing is impeccable!!!! I picked up a used black Mini Cooper S last week, and beyond needing paint love, the previous owner(s) loved their paint pens but didn't know how to use them. And I wasn't sure how I was going to fix their sins either, then you come along with this...
Great visuals & explanation Brian & exactly what I need at the moment with my car (thats just been coated with ASP Metal Oxide) being set upon by ignorant & stupid octogenarian parking / pushing her shopping trolley into my passenger door.. Not amused.
I personally think even simply just covering up the chip with a blob of paint is wayyyyyy more effective than going down the rabbit hole, Personally I have a white merc it’s ceramic coated so I can see the black rock chips so once I used my paint brush with same color paint it leveled itself while drying but ofcourse sanding lightly and polishing will earn better results.
Nice work. I think I went down the rabbit hole in repairing my chip. First off, I didn't put enough paint on and the chip is still there. Also I used 1500 sandpaper and than switched to 3000 but obviously didn't sand enough. Next, I put the polish on and now I am left with a dull finish with chips. My question, do I just start all over again. My rabbit hole is getting deeper!
When I touch up, I fill the chip with color match paint, then after dry I cover with clear but cover about 5mm around the chip with clear also. Then after a day or so, I cover with clear again, but only over the chip, then let dry again for a day or two. Then I mask around the chip about 7mm and wet sand 1200 grit, then 2000, then 3000, then remove mask, cut and polish. This way I can usually get the repair to be about 95% invisible. Only do this on an area that hasn't been wet sanded before or you'll end up with a circular burn through the clear to base coat.
Thanks for the video. I have a deep but small scratch on my white bumper. So would I just fill in with touch up paint and a lil clearcoat and skip all the sanding? I don’t care if it’s perfect just not as noticeable. Thanks!
I’ll definitely try this out myself thank you. Only thing to add to make it easier to glue the hole punched pieces is to glue the pencil eraser first then easily stick the sandpaper to it. Should be less finicky.
Thanks! This is the best and simplest video I’ve found about touching up scratches and rock chips. Really well done - not only the process itself but the clear verbal tutorial. I subscribed to your channel, but haven’t yet checked to see if you might have another similar video - my bad - about touching up metallic paint? I recently bought a nice old Mercedes SLK with original Storm Red Metallic paint which really pops on a sunny day but has many scratches and rock chips. Not sure how to proceed with that one. Any advice? Thanks again.
Yeah I wish I had just left the lil chips. I found working on nightmate bmw and audi engines way more satisfying. 2 options: live with it, or pay to get a real paint job.
I just tried to paint correct some deep rock chips on my car yesterday and miserably failed. I think (not sure) the chips went to the metal (it was black in the rock chips) and the paint is carrera white. I tried to sand it with 1000 grit sand paper, cleaned with alcohol and applied a thin coat of lacquer thinner. Once it's dried, I applied the paint. It was raised above the surface of the panel. But when it dried, it kept getting sunken in no matter how many coats I applied. Later, I gave up and left. I guess I need to fill it with Bondo first?
Thanks for your tutorials. Learning a lot. I noticed you didn't use the clear from the touch up pen...any reason you used what you did and didn't just pour some clear from the pen? I don't have a separate jar of clear so wanted to know if you thought it would be ok to combine the clear and base from the touch up pen? It's lacquer paint in my touch up pen from Honda.
I am planning to fill up the chip with putty because I have tried to touch up directly with paint but those edges of chip will give you bad reflection. I do have a question about the paint which do I need to add some reducer or just the paint from original batch?
Excellent information! When do you do the razer scraping? You rambled quite a bit when you're talking about curing the paint so I didn't really understand when the scraping is done lol. Is it after the paint's completely dry like a couple of days as you said?
I have three or four Spots where it looks like the clear coat has flaked off (maybe a 1/4 or an 1/8 inch in diameter). Do I fill it in with the mixture or just clear coat?
I mixed my base and clear as you reccomended and waited two days before sanding and polishing. The black touchup paint looked perfectly color matched when I applied it but upon polishing it becomes hazy and almost gray in comparison to the surrounding oem paint. Im stressing out that I may have ruined my paint... is it not curing properly because I mixed clear and base? Do I just need to wait longer for it to cure? Maybe my clear coat is different from yours and has an incompatable chemistry for mixing with base?....
Great Video. Were you using Solvent based or water based paints? Were the Clearcoat solvent or water based? Do you have recommendations for a paint source for 1999 Boxster Porsche? Thanks
How do YOU repair rock chips and deep scratches?
For a few cars I have used Drcolorchip 😄
I use the same method as you Brian. I remember you showed us this a few years ago.Thanks ✊
@@bigd9848 I have only used some of his techniques when using regular colors like white, black, but still depends upon which white😄
I have used many of the same tools and have yet tried the body filler method, takes too long. I prefer Dr. Colorchip kits but pricey but very simple . It meets my acceptable rule of view from 3-feet.
Hopefully the way you do cause Dr. Colorchip doesn't work great on deeper chips/scratches
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again Brian. Thank you so much for doing these educational videos and giving back to the industry the way you do. 👏👏👏👏👏
Thank baby jesus, finally a good touch up paint video.
Absolute genius ways of fixing the agonizing rock chips. I have watched other videos on this subject, but this is the best! Love the pencil erasure , micro sanding disc tool! Thanks for sharing Brian!
Very informative...I think rather than take any sandpaper to my Camaro, I'll just go the "fill it in with a couple of coats of paint and be done" route! Thanks for the insights!
Basically you got all of it right but there are some differences between how a detailer and a automotive painter would handle these scratches.
1) We never use lacquer putty. We would use a two part polyester glazing putty such as Metal Glaze or U-Pol Dolphin Glaze. Three reasons why: 1) It hardens and is ready to sand in 10 minutes 2) It's a much stronger repair as it's basically very refined Bondo. 3) It doesn't shrink.
2) In modern collision repair we seldom use wet sanding anymore since a number of completely dry sanding options are now available. Eagle Abrasives makes Tolex and Bufflex both of which work fabulously dry. I can highly recommend both products. If you've ever done much of it wet sanding sucks and wet sanding cleanup sucks even more.
2) We're going to paint the car anyway so we don't need to touch up anything so we would use basecoat and 2K acrylic urethane clearcoat as we would have these already mixed up and ready to go. If it's after the painting is complete or someone is willing to pay us to touch up the chips we normally have a little extra basecoat available (or can make it using our mixing bank) so we would put the base in the nicks and then mix up some clear to go over the base. I typically do this with an airbrush.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experiece, your explanation has been locked into my few remaining little grey cells & hope I can do it justice.
Have you tried uv stopper, similar to dolphin but cures with light in 30 - 60 seconds. Its next level imo.👍
@@stevenbewick592 Hi Steve, we're about ten years behind you guys but if I can get it over here I will give it a go (just googled it UK suggests factor 50 sun screen) Dolphine I can get but Eagle abrasives dry sanding discs are International Orders from US. (10 years it will catch on here !! ) Thanks for the thought.
@@stevenbewick592 Not yet readily available here in the US. Apparently, Evercoat is working on it but to my knowledge it hasn't been released yet. The Gunman in Australia raves about it so I would like to try some out. Living in Phoenix sunlight isn't a problem.
Excellent post. 👍
What a king! What a king! Bravo! really liked it.
Dr. Color Chip has the easiest and most accurate system I have ever used, even on older vehicles. Highly impressed with their product. Thank you Brian with additional tips for prepping the surface!
I'm fond of DR Colorchip as well, much easier to get that repair flat.
I have tried all the ways and what works the absolute best IMO is the Langka system using their paint for your color code vehicle. The key is to use their paint. The base coat needs no clear as it is thicker and has a nice gloss.
Perfect color match too. Better than Dr.Color Chip IMO but Dr. CC is good just very hard to get a level repair. Yes it can be a big rabbit hole.
I will try it
What if I have some small rust in the cheap after clean it need any primer?
Dotting pens for nail art are another good tool. And so easy to clean after use! Come in various sizes to fit the depth and width of the paint blemishes.
that razor blade trick is legit I'm gonna try that tomorrow
And thank you for all of the product links!!
If you are familiar with scrapers in woodworking, take a phillips screwdriver and drag the razors edge against the screwdriver, curls the edge so it forms a fine scraper the put tape on each end. Also scotch tape is thinner bringing edge closer to level. Helps for better control and more productive leveling, angle the draw across paint differently for more or less of a cut.Learned this in touching up guitar finishes from Dan Erlewine.
Great video and attention to detail Brian! Thank you for spending the time to show us all these tips and tricks
I'm trying this on my old Lexus hood shortly. Thanks Brian for another GREAT video!!!☺
the best low cost techniques I've seen! Thanks for sharing!
Great advice for stone chips and life, don’t overthink it! 👍
I've been doing paint repair on cars for 25 years . Of course every repair is different, maybe a small cup gun or airbrush, but on rock chips, the good quality fine tip brush is the best, regulate the flow of paint with reducer ,and of course adding clearcoat to Your paint.
These are really great tips for getting those repairs done quickly on stone chips and preventing rust from setting in and spreading. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers from Montreal, Canada!
Great post, with a lot of ideas. As a rule I’m a fill the chip with a hypodermic needle guy. Seldom get a budget to really finish them down. It’s more a “ make it look better from 5 feet away and protect the metal”. It goes with an expectation talk as well. For door jam chips and panel edge chips this works very well. Middle of a panel chips, I try and get a budget of time and money to do a little more. Love the eraser trick, I have cut strips of sand paper to minimize the area sanded on occasion with so so results.
This really needs a lot of patience. Thank you Brian for the Video!
Love all the knowledge you bring yo the table without being arrogant.
Super video Brian! I love seeing all the tricks you use to get the job done. For rock chips on my car, I just dab some factory color into the chip with a toothpick and call it a day.
Excellent tips and demonstration, thank you.
The razor trick is how I fix paint runs when I have an oh no moment spraying. Great video as always.
Exactly...that is where I got it from. Great way to level curtains on paint.
You’re amazing Brian. Seriously appreciate all of the tutorials and real world experience you provide! You have helped me immensely over the years. Thank you!
I'm dazzled. 🤩 Thank you, Brian. Saving for springtime, to hopefully give myself a head start on touch-ups.
The eraser and hole punch sandpaper was a good tip, keeps the sanding minimal without having to blend a much larger area than needed.
The algorithm needs more love for Brian!! People like me NEED these tips and insight (and a little hand holding)!
Many thanks and well wishes, your newest sub.,
Vincent 👍✌️✊
great tip on mixing the clear with the paint... many thanks!
As many have mentioned “THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS INFORMATION”. This is definitely one I am going to be saving for future reference. ✌️👍☮️
WOW best how to guild I’ve seen!
Great information, glad I discovered your vid, prior to me doing this on my car. I’ll do a much better job thanks to your advice. Cheers! 😊👍🏾
I've been having a lot of luck with flat and round toothpicks and wood skewers 🤗
Absolutely superb video. Seriously good.
I love these touch up videos. Thank you for providing different techniques and methods. Keep them coming.
Phenomenal video! Learned a lot!!! Thank you
Amazing workmanship! Ingenious with the eraser tip.
Great video , enjoyed it . plan on saving the video for the future .
Awesome video and timely. My daughter’s Tuscon needs some of this love. Thanks Brian!
With the razor blade....I keep a couple of new blades that I have cut in half with a Dremel tool in my box. They are lifesavers on more highly contoured panels. I debur the cut and slightly round the corners as well.
Your timing is impeccable!!!! I picked up a used black Mini Cooper S last week, and beyond needing paint love, the previous owner(s) loved their paint pens but didn't know how to use them. And I wasn't sure how I was going to fix their sins either, then you come along with this...
I wish I found this when you did. . . Better now then not at all though!!
Thank you for sharing this video and the tricks Brian.
Great visuals & explanation Brian & exactly what I need at the moment with my car (thats just been coated with ASP Metal Oxide) being set upon by ignorant & stupid octogenarian parking / pushing her shopping trolley into my passenger door.. Not amused.
Pencil eraser trick is cool!
I personally think even simply just covering up the chip with a blob of paint is wayyyyyy more effective than going down the rabbit hole,
Personally I have a white merc it’s ceramic coated so I can see the black rock chips so once I used my paint brush with same color paint it leveled itself while drying but ofcourse sanding lightly and polishing will earn better results.
Excellent video✊Another one for the video reference log.
Nice work. I think I went down the rabbit hole in repairing my chip. First off, I didn't put enough paint on and the chip is still there. Also I used 1500 sandpaper and than switched to 3000 but obviously didn't sand enough. Next, I put the polish on and now I am left with a dull finish with chips. My question, do I just start all over again. My rabbit hole is getting deeper!
Excellent video Brian. Very good tutorial on rock chips.
Great video Brian 👍
I was wondering what mixing the clear and the base does.
When I touch up, I fill the chip with color match paint, then after dry I cover with clear but cover about 5mm around the chip with clear also. Then after a day or so, I cover with clear again, but only over the chip, then let dry again for a day or two. Then I mask around the chip about 7mm and wet sand 1200 grit, then 2000, then 3000, then remove mask, cut and polish. This way I can usually get the repair to be about 95% invisible. Only do this on an area that hasn't been wet sanded before or you'll end up with a circular burn through the clear to base coat.
Thanks Brian that was really helpful have a good one as always🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍
Mate that trick with the razor blade is genius! Very clever.
Thanks for the video. I have a deep but small scratch on my white bumper. So would I just fill in with touch up paint and a lil clearcoat and skip all the sanding? I don’t care if it’s perfect just not as noticeable. Thanks!
Really cool video and I really appreciate the time you take out of your day to teach us newbs.
Great video!
Wow. Thanks!! I will use your links for sure
Good stuff 👍
Awesome tips and tricks 👌
I’ll definitely try this out myself thank you. Only thing to add to make it easier to glue the hole punched pieces is to glue the pencil eraser first then easily stick the sandpaper to it. Should be less finicky.
Dr color chip is my quick go to for chips. Thanks Brian for the video’s!
Thanks! This is the best and simplest video I’ve found about touching up scratches and rock chips. Really well done - not only the process itself but the clear verbal tutorial. I subscribed to your channel, but haven’t yet checked to see if you might have another similar video - my bad - about touching up metallic paint? I recently bought a nice old Mercedes SLK with original Storm Red Metallic paint which really pops on a sunny day but has many scratches and rock chips. Not sure how to proceed with that one. Any advice? Thanks again.
The information and tips in this video are some of the best I've seen around! Please fix your camera focus and this will be perfect
Thank you so much for the great instructions. Well done and appreciated!
Thank you Brian! I'm learning alot from these videos. I could definitely use this knowledge on my own vehicles if nothing else.
great idea with the eraser and sand paper!
I like all the mediums/applications you show, because one size does not fit all.
awesome job
Very good video. What’s the ratio of base and clear in the mixture? I tried 1:1 but it isn’t shin enough after polishing.
Just hide it with a little color so it’s not sticking out like a sore thumb.
Great video again sir, thanks for sharing
Awesome info I've saved this one thank you!
Great content and advice as always 👍
Thanks Brian 👍😁
Awesome! Thank you for all the info
Wow.awesone video and tutorial good friend. Amazing tips.whats ur take on dr color chip squeeze kit?
Yeah I wish I had just left the lil chips. I found working on nightmate bmw and audi engines way more satisfying. 2 options: live with it, or pay to get a real paint job.
Love the blade trick, been a painters friend when he’s accidentally gotten a sag or flow indicator in clearcoat lol
Great video!!👏👏
Very cool tips. Thanks buddy.
I just tried to paint correct some deep rock chips on my car yesterday and miserably failed. I think (not sure) the chips went to the metal (it was black in the rock chips) and the paint is carrera white. I tried to sand it with 1000 grit sand paper, cleaned with alcohol and applied a thin coat of lacquer thinner. Once it's dried, I applied the paint. It was raised above the surface of the panel. But when it dried, it kept getting sunken in no matter how many coats I applied. Later, I gave up and left. I guess I need to fill it with Bondo first?
Thanks for your tutorials. Learning a lot. I noticed you didn't use the clear from the touch up pen...any reason you used what you did and didn't just pour some clear from the pen? I don't have a separate jar of clear so wanted to know if you thought it would be ok to combine the clear and base from the touch up pen? It's lacquer paint in my touch up pen from Honda.
He mixed together
If there is some rust after cleaning no need primer?
A small rock cheap
Paint is enough?
Thank you. Well done.
very good job thanks👍👍👍
Excellent video and will be helpful with my upcoming scratch repair. Any preference whether it's waterborne or solvent base paints?
great tips man... thanks!
Do you have links for the products you demonstrated? Aploigize if i misses them. Thanka
Great video.
Great advice thanks.
I am planning to fill up the chip with putty because I have tried to touch up directly with paint but those edges of chip will give you bad reflection.
I do have a question about the paint which do I need to add some reducer or just the paint from original batch?
interesting video! I want ask what is better mixed color with clearcoat or apply individually each one? If i saw right, you used mixed paint?
Awesome walkthrough as usual!
Don’t you have to put some clear coat on after you have micro polished?
Thank you! Great video!
Excellent information! When do you do the razer scraping? You rambled quite a bit when you're talking about curing the paint so I didn't really understand when the scraping is done lol. Is it after the paint's completely dry like a couple of days as you said?
How long does it take to fully cure and when can you wash/Ceramic Coat the area?
I have three or four Spots where it looks like the clear coat has flaked off (maybe a 1/4 or an 1/8 inch in diameter). Do I fill it in with the mixture or just clear coat?
You can, but that is an entirely different problem and will continue to flake off no matter what you attempt.
I mixed my base and clear as you reccomended and waited two days before sanding and polishing. The black touchup paint looked perfectly color matched when I applied it but upon polishing it becomes hazy and almost gray in comparison to the surrounding oem paint. Im stressing out that I may have ruined my paint... is it not curing properly because I mixed clear and base? Do I just need to wait longer for it to cure? Maybe my clear coat is different from yours and has an incompatable chemistry for mixing with base?....
Great Video. Were you using Solvent based or water based paints? Were the Clearcoat solvent or water based? Do you have recommendations for a paint source for 1999 Boxster Porsche? Thanks