Don't forget to check the liner nip which is the amount the liners protrude above the surface of the block as they can sink into the block making the amount of nip insufficient to seal. The amount of nip varies between different versions of the engine & is specified in the workshop manual. Enjoying your videos, good luck with the restoration.
THE SECOND YOU SAW PRESTONE IN THE OIL, ITS ENGINE AND TRANNY REMOVAL TIME SINCE THIS IS A RESTORATION PROJECT , NOW YOUR WORKING TO HARD IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND FIGHTING HARD FOR NOTHING CROUCHED OVER
Leaking liners is more of a V8 issue than the 4 cyl but it is starting to look like that is the problem. The head gasket is now the long since obsolete metal one which indicates that perhaps the head has never been off since it was originally built. The liners are a slip fit, sealed with Hylomar, so don’t rotate the crank with the head off. The piston movement will push the liner up and unseat it. JAE or RD Enterprises should have the liner clamps that install over the head stud that clamp the liners down. SJ’s in the UK sell them too.
I'm waiting to see what the machine shop says about the head. If they find nothing wrong with it then attention turns to the block to check for a crack, leaking sleeves or some other issue. All those are better handled by the machine shop so if the head checks out, I will pull the engine and let the professionals tell me what's wrong with it.
Just so everyone is aware, I didn't have touch the motor mounts...the head comes off easily enough once the manifold comes off. I have to believe that if I did loosen the drivers side motor mount I could have removed the head with manifold still on.
Another great video. I was watching that drill bit bend a lot. Seemed like on the limit of breaking, but you managed it. Soon you might get to a stage where separating the transmission and actually removing the engine might be the best.
Well, I was going to drop the oil pan to see if the sleeves are leaking...but if they're not, I have to pull the engine to bring it to a machine shop to get it checked for a cracks or damage. If they are leaking I have to pull the engine to have the sleeves professionally reinstalled. Therefore, it seems I will be pulling the engine and the transmission along with it. This way I can get a look at the clutch and replace it if necessary. It will also let me get access to some areas in the engine bay that could use some refurbishment.
Cylinder liners are probably leaking. None of the tests you performed would show that problem. You would have to drop the oil pan and then redo the coolant pressure test and watch the liners.
Yeah....machine shop told me the same thing....that and to look closer at coolant pump if it's created any sort of break into the system. Oil pan coming off next...
@@Rick_D If radiator stop leak products, like Bars Leak, work on any coolant system leaks, it's liner leaks. That's because the leak is between 2 extremely hard surfaces, and easy for the leak product to actually work. People try radiator leak product when they have a leak on a very flexible part of the radiator fins, or on something like rubber coolant hose leaks, where it will never hold up as the hole flexes, which is why their are so many bad reviews for those products. So if that's your only engine problem, I would definitely try the Bars Leak tablets first before disassembling the engine for that problem.
Don't forget to check the liner nip which is the amount the liners protrude above the surface of the block as they can sink into the block making the amount of nip insufficient to seal. The amount of nip varies between different versions of the engine & is specified in the workshop manual. Enjoying your videos, good luck with the restoration.
Thanks for the heads up.
THE SECOND YOU SAW PRESTONE IN THE OIL, ITS ENGINE AND TRANNY REMOVAL TIME
SINCE THIS IS A RESTORATION PROJECT , NOW YOUR WORKING TO HARD IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT
AND FIGHTING HARD FOR NOTHING CROUCHED OVER
Leaking liners is more of a V8 issue than the 4 cyl but it is starting to look like that is the problem. The head gasket is now the long since obsolete metal one which indicates that perhaps the head has never been off since it was originally built. The liners are a slip fit, sealed with Hylomar, so don’t rotate the crank with the head off. The piston movement will push the liner up and unseat it. JAE or RD Enterprises should have the liner clamps that install over the head stud that clamp the liners down. SJ’s in the UK sell them too.
I'm waiting to see what the machine shop says about the head. If they find nothing wrong with it then attention turns to the block to check for a crack, leaking sleeves or some other issue. All those are better handled by the machine shop so if the head checks out, I will pull the engine and let the professionals tell me what's wrong with it.
Just so everyone is aware, I didn't have touch the motor mounts...the head comes off easily enough once the manifold comes off. I have to believe that if I did loosen the drivers side motor mount I could have removed the head with manifold still on.
Another great video. I was watching that drill bit bend a lot. Seemed like on the limit of breaking, but you managed it. Soon you might get to a stage where separating the transmission and actually removing the engine might be the best.
Well, I was going to drop the oil pan to see if the sleeves are leaking...but if they're not, I have to pull the engine to bring it to a machine shop to get it checked for a cracks or damage. If they are leaking I have to pull the engine to have the sleeves professionally reinstalled. Therefore, it seems I will be pulling the engine and the transmission along with it. This way I can get a look at the clutch and replace it if necessary. It will also let me get access to some areas in the engine bay that could use some refurbishment.
@@Rick_D yeah it makes sense. I knew it would end that way. Once engine is out it all makes sense and easier
Rip that alarm horn off and get it out of your way
Cylinder liners are probably leaking. None of the tests you performed would show that problem. You would have to drop the oil pan and then redo the coolant pressure test and watch the liners.
Yeah....machine shop told me the same thing....that and to look closer at coolant pump if it's created any sort of break into the system. Oil pan coming off next...
@@Rick_D If radiator stop leak products, like Bars Leak, work on any coolant system leaks, it's liner leaks. That's because the leak is between 2 extremely hard surfaces, and easy for the leak product to actually work. People try radiator leak product when they have a leak on a very flexible part of the radiator fins, or on something like rubber coolant hose leaks, where it will never hold up as the hole flexes, which is why their are so many bad reviews for those products. So if that's your only engine problem, I would definitely try the Bars Leak tablets first before disassembling the engine for that problem.