Wow another fantastic diagnosis from you. I’m 67, been a mechanic/tech for 51 years and am still working on vehicles at my home shop similar to yours. Your channel is invaluable to me. I’ve learned more from you than the 12 years I spent in dealerships where we were suppose to be getting training. You are one in a thousand in diagnostic skills and I look forward to your videos. Keep up the good work. Oh, I thought about that circuit out of the relay not being fused and then you hit that very thing. I would have never thought about that before. Your teaching this old dog new tricks. Thank you.
Absolutely correct. Dealership reputation used to be Golden. Now they are not. Guessing at parts with the customer paying is robbery. Great job again Ivan.
Nice work Ivan! It's a satisfying feeling when older cars are fixed properly and maintained, rather than scrapped. Even the fresh oil change felt good! LOL.
The Crossfire is a rare car over here in Europe. IMO it is kinda collectible. SLK's are everywhere. Common as muck. Respect for the owner/customer for fixing up this Crossfire.
The problem with the car repair industry is that repair shops do not pay their people what it is worth to get the education to make it worth putting in the time. You have degrees ,i am sure, and i bet a back ground in electronics.. Many shops make their money on brake jobs ,etc. You need to be trained in how to use a scope and be able to understand what you are seeing. If you do not get alot of that kind of work it is cheaper to sublet that type of work, thats where you come in. I watch you and Eric from south main and the older guy down south all the time. I also miss the staten island guru . I watch for procedure and process and learn at least one new thing each time. If I want to be entertained ,I watch the hand waver,Scotty. YOU KNOW why people tow their cars to you,because there is no shop in their area with a reputation for that kind of diag, and to be fair, you love it. When someone sends their problem to you they expect to pay for the time you put in to research ,not so much in most hometown shops,first question usually is HOW MUCH! Not the greatest insentive to take on a problem job. Anyway ,,keep making the videos .PS I am in the business 60 years
The fact that people are bringing you their cars from other states speaks volumes of you and this channel. Don't be surprise if you a get mine all the way from Costa Rica one day LOL!!!!
Great work Ivan. I like your thoughts for the industry as well. There are so many shops that just fire the parts canon at everything. They don't take the time to thoroughly diagnosis what they are trying to fix.
I would suggest that some do not know how to diagnose the more complex issues. Having the ability read and understand wiring diagrams in automotive applications is not as straight forward as it was some decades ago. The automotive industry has out grown what it once was. I do not know what is taught in automotive colleges in other countries, though I do know through a relative what is taught in my country, and sadly it is not enough. Unless you do an apprenticeship in an workshop that has good diagnostic practices, equipment and technicians, the whole automotive repair industry will mimic what dealerships do - swaptronics. Not a very good outlook of the future in that industry.
Yesterday we dropped off our RV to our favorite RV dealer. We know the owner and employees well now. We wanted our brakes and bearings inspected. Peter the owner told my wife that trailer brakes last many years and he felt the cost to inspect the brakes and bearings was not necessary. They will check the bearings for play. I know how much work is involved on trailer brakes because of TH-cam. I think it's very refreshing that a dealer wojld put the interest of the customer first. You don't see that to often anymore.
Excellent work Ivan! I can every day on TH-cam the "Parts Cannons" are alive out there. Thank god after I retired, the industry still has some great techs working on these problem vehicles.
That is what happened to me, driving and just died. Started went a few more yards then died again. Battery was low because I only drive it 2-3 times a year. My original mechanic thought they had it fixed. When I came to pick it up, it would not start. I will still use them again. This one just had him stumped. Was not charge for any of their time or storage. Since I have owned the car, other then brakes, tires, O2 sensor, battery terminal,and oil, it has never left me down with 173,000 miles. Thanks again Ivan!
@@JamesAgans I was driving it daily, until about 2 years. Then I was just starting car, running it for about 20 minutes. Drive to car wash, or get gas. Was not a daily driver
Great repair. Will you be contacting Snap-On to inform them of the inadequacies of their scanner on Chrysler Crossfires? (can't VIN ID, misnaming brake sensor being faulty, etc). Would they even bat an eye if you did?
When you first stepped on the brake pedal after the repair (21:20).. Your sensor 2 had a slight delay at first because there was probably a little space or bubble above your sensor, so when you first pushed the pedal it took a moment to fill that slack before it spiked with full pressure, but by the time you pulled your foot off the pedal it was already in sync. Pretty cool to see that in the data. It likely just pushed the bubble back into the reservoir, no worries. :)
@@kevin9c1 Meh.. You never know with sensors. Many will never break and out last the car.. Or you can buy a new one thinking it's "old" and your new sensor breaks in 6 months. If it's not broke, don't mess with it-- it may just keep working forever.
Great case study. When you understand the basics and do your research it’s really not that hard. Obviously, most of the shops want the quick money and due to lack of proper diagnosis they sure don’t want to pay for their wrong diagnosis.
Fifty years in business. 36 as owner. Mistakes ? Of course. Who paid ? I did. That’s why you need to understand complaint. Ask plenty of questions and test drive when done. Great video series my friend.
great fix and great value for the customer. I have my share of horror stories of money wasted at the dealer, but in their defence, they CANNOT do a fix like this, even if they knew how. pure liability. they will take NO risk. Their job is to do what the manufacturers tell them. I know dealer mechanics locally that tell me they aren't even allowed to guide their own troubleshooting steps. a 15 year mechanic MUST follow the manufacturers steps, in order.
hit the nail on the head -- the industry should be demanding better of themselves, but with the glut of competent diagnosticians, and the disincentivization to have many, it's really creating a run.... I have similar issues in my own industry Radio comms for first responders) where customers chuck tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars replacing 'existing' equipent that hasn't been diagnosed, only to recreate the same problem with 'new' equipment.... when anyone competent could have diagnosed the original issue had nothing to do with the equipment that was there.... What's worse, one of the "leading" brands out there has a series of new equipment that the specs are terrible compared to the stuff they're replacing, causing MORE issues after it's all been replaced! Different vertical, same issues. Differential diagnostics is important. RE: Repairs - I'd have modified the inside of the relay board -- jumped the ouput of the "Engine" to "Traction" relay on the board, and found the traces to the other fuses and brought them over... (or traced that out so they could have been reused). But, to your credit, your repair does not impose a new function, and it's way better than a bodged in relay!
It drives me crazy when even a dealer gives you an "I think it's this" diagnosis. I trusted my Ford dealer since 2009 but they now have lost their top technicians and me. I just purchased a Toyota instead of a Ford.
Dealer hire ordinary people and don't provide OE training as their top techs like yourself are no longer available and for good reason. Always learning is key.
The good technicians sometimes open their own shops and are way better than the dealers.. that's an issue especially with European brands that need special attention, so owners need to find these good guys outside the network
Yeah this one was satisfying overall. For being off the road for a year, it didn't really take much to get going. New CKP, new brake pressure sensor. We are not talking about a lot of money here. I like this era of Mercedes products. I had an 04 E55 AMG that was my entry into Mercedes and while that car was totaled in 2022, it will always hold a special place in my heart. I actually enjoyed working on it. Then I bought an 07 S550 which has been FANTASTIC. My third is a 2014 E63S which has been good but does scare me, not going to lie...
Wonder how much time Ivan billed for on this one? Its not the cost of the parts on this case that are expensive, its the time the customer will be paying for.
Well done. Work completed with client satisfaction in mind. When people send cars from across the United States to you, you earned that reputation! Wish you were my local mechanic.
Nice catch with the relay fuse! One of the problems with on-the-fly hacks... The modification usually requires other necessary alterations which can be overlooked rather easily during the heat of the fix. Granted, the repair is likely to outlast the life of the vehicle. But, the next guy or the original repair person will now be faced with two modifications that will require the mental effort of reverse engineering to understand the reasons and correctness for the modification. As stated in my comment for the previous video on this thread, soldering in a relay pigtail is rather self-documenting.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yep! Not bad mouthing your course of action. If the fix works, that's 95% of the battle. But, multiple decades of software development and 3:00am debugging under-the-gun so payroll for thousands of employees completes, I've discovered that making one's footprints obvious and self-documenting are rather important. And it's not so much for the next guy. It's so when I revisit the code again in five years, it will be instantly obvious. This is why when an internal relay goes bad in a component, I'll solder in a harness and have the relay dangling outside of the module. There's no extra head scratching five years into the future if revisited. "Oh, the relay is bad again or another component failed," the external relay can be replaced or the whole module swapped out instantly without having to reverse engineer the extra fuse modification to determine if it has to be removed or can be left in-place. Just something to think about...
Wow, I was WAY off in my guess! LOL Good finds, Ivan! This was the last "good" era of Mercedes, when they were still trying to put some quality into things. That 3.2L V6 is lovely. I notice you didn't change the oil filter housing stem O-rings, though! Or at least, not on camera. ;) No worries though, most folks never change them, and they can go a looong time!
I was wondering if someone was gonna comment on this. I am guilty of not changing stem seals but always change filter housing o ring. Did not see them in the box.
It doesn't surprise me that some Mercedes parts are reasonably priced. I had to change an intercooler hose on my 2009 W204 C200 CDI and the genuine part from the dealer was cheaper than some of the aftermarket ones.
Well, we got to see a great case study. Component repair, Swaptronics, and a great diagnosis were all part of the study. I am going to call the jumper wire a "Russian" repair just for good measure, LOL. I was hoping to get to see a "string" alignment on the rear suspension; that independent system is why you and I like solid rear axles so well. Both of my 6.0 liter diesels have that same setup concerning the oil filter and to a smaller degree the HCFM and the fuel filter on top of the engine. The also have a 4 gallon oil capacity; I think that 15W-40 per gallon is $22.00 at Wal-Mart. GREAT VIDEO!
FINALLY! Somebody on TH-cam using the same scanner I have. I just recently used it on an older Mercedes and to my own amazement it did auto ID. The 808 is a little beast for some things. So far I have probably only used about .00001% of it's capabilities but I'm glad to know I'm somewhat covered.
Did you change the O-rings on the oil filter? They should have been included with the filter. Not worth skipping considering that the risk is loss of oil pressure...
Why can’t they just keep the oil filter simple. Subaru has got to be the easiest oil filter to change of any car. You go above and beyond the normal parts changing shop. I learn more watching you and Eric O. Don’t know why they put all these sensors that we don’t need on cars these days. 👍🏻
Great video, fine solution of bypass the relay. That was a hard one, but with good preparation instead of partskanon are the right way. Instead of external fuse, wouldn't it be posible to cut the hot side of the internal fuse, install the wire from the other relay to the hot side, and just make a short from hot side to load side of the traction relay. Then the wireharness are still original, and if the relaybox are exchanged, all the modif are inside this. Like the tips on replacement parts, go to the Mercedes dealer, its cheaper than the Chrysler and the parts are the same.😊😊😊
Another great diag and good value for your customer. I can see why people travel long distances to get you to fix their problem cars. That driveshaft vibration on high torque take offs could be the rubber donut on the centre bearing flogged out. I fixed mine on my old work vehicle by applying a large amount of sikaflex into the damaged rubber area left it for a few days and problem solved still driving it four years later. Again aftermarket parts causing intermittent issues causing extra problems mechanics should know better by now.
Great work Ivan. Over the summer I imported a 1996 Mitsubishi Pajero Mini from Japan. Little 4 cylinder 660 engine, nonturbo, 2WD and stick shift, 90,000 km. Titled it and is parked in our garage at our hobby farm in Virginia. It runs fine but I'm sure there'll be a few gremlins so you will eventually get to make a video! Pajero translates to 'wanker' in Spanish so you could have some fun with the video title 😂 Still have my Celica convertible, that is parked at our home in Bedford County. BTW importing a car from Japan was so easy, have some interesting vehicles, I used CarfromJapan. If I had the money I'd get an early 90s Supra for sure. Mine was $2800, most of that was shipping!
It is important for folks to put some thought into where they are taking their cars for repair. When I moved years ago, I asked for recommendations from local folks for good tradesmen, not the cheapest place to go. A good mechanic might not have the cheapest hourly rate, or the highest rate, but they develop a good reputation for their work. I do 99% of my own work but when I do need to take it someplace else, I want to support a place that does good work that they stand behind.
If you pull the crank position sensor (variable reluctance sensor (VRS)) and confirm it is OEM, has no cracks and the pins are clean, you can put in a vise (gently) monitor the coil resistance and slowly heat up with a heat gun. If the sensor does not drop out then while it is warm lightly tap on the sensor and see if it drops out. For a more advanced drop out test you may want to monitor voltage with the Picoscope and power the sensor statically with a variable bench DC linear current limited power supply. See if the sensor goes open with heat and vibration. For this year car I know that Chryslers VRS crank sensors are not as trouble free as Ford. However, OEM VRS sensors, unless damaged, are very robust sensors.
I was thinking about that jumper you put in on the relay module. #1 did that bypass eliminate the fuses on the other circuit? I think it did. #2 will that 15 amp fuse on the working circuit handle the additional load? Possibly? I think I would have replaced it with a 20 amp to be surer. I was happy to see that you did address that first concern. Good call. And as I was saying before. The can bus on those things is poor. If the right failure comes into play, the whole network goes down. And it can and will show a number of false or misleading error codes. Older Volvo's are like that too. Your conclusion at the end is spot on Ivan. Well said. And another job well done.
Very cool! I drive a 2004 Lincoln Town Car and drive about 3000 miles a year. Living in Florida with the heat and humidity I like to change my oil twice a year even though I don't drive a lot of miles. It's only oil and it costs me about $50 a shot. I go to a garage that specializes in Fords and they also check my car over. To me it's worth changing it more often than needed.
Just wanted to swing by say hi and thanks trying to point me in the right direction! So after the 2nd mechanic the third figured out, I had bad gas he replaced the plugs and a break line that broke in the process of all the towing, so the grand total for bad gas cost me, 5k because of false advertising and Pizz poor Mechanics… thanks again!
Great job Ive! Such a convoluted diagnosis/modification but you sorted everything mate well done! Now, what's that 🤬🤬 loud annoying beeping going on EVERY time you turn the 🤬🤬key? Where's my hammer & flat blade screwdriver to fix that faulty beeper? BANG!!!💥 Ahh, that's better!
Ivan, fantastic diagnostic yet again. My thoughts were that the 2 identical relays may have had slightly different pull-in voltage levels. If you’d transposed the 2 relays you might have had different faults. Your idea of combining the 2 outputs would do no harm and could only increase longevity. My guess would be that the coil windings were incorrectly wound from new. Or a dry joint, you couldn’t see with the naked eye.
We can see that CHRY really wanted to sell a lot of these cars, a car built with MB and only 8 Modules, something is not normal about this car for sure. If you use the AUTEL can you please scroll down to show the total number of modules at some point in your video please, some of us keep Module info in our libraries and some dont have the big bucks to buy super nice scanners. Great video series as always. People are bringing you cars from all over the country and all that is needed is an understanding of a schematic in many of these cases along with a decent scan tool. Cheers.
Hello . Thanks so much for all these videos, gives me more confidence to do diy stuff. I would have begged borrowed or bought a gen purpose small relay and took the bad relay out and glued an aftermarket same size relay and jump the relay terminals vvia solder to circuit board. My next project is to install missing cam position magnet on 1992 Buick Lasabre cam shaft gear with out pulling any thing except cam sensor. Kind of like medical surgery. These cam magnets fall off iguess.
Hey Ivan another great case study. Better you than me. LOL. Talking about beach whales. When I call on a European shop, when I walk up and see more cars than their lot can handle, and customers have trouble finding a space to park. I start looking at vehicles that are closer to the front door. I will stop and bend over and start look at the brake rotors. I examine how much rust has built up on the rotor, which tells me how long the vehicle has been sitting there. I ask my self is this the place where cars come to die. If you're storing beached whales on your lot, it speaks volumes about your business without uttering a word. Free Willie! LOL
You put the ketchup on the fries Ivan. What is it with shops now saying " well we tried to fix it " yea but at what cost to the customer ? You chased the demons outta this my man.. Great work Ivan !
Diagnose Dan ran into a Bosch sensor that had reversed pins. I would stick with OE, of course knowing my luck Bosch is probably the supplier for this car.😂😂
Had an inner Ivan moment today but ignored it and wrongly fired the parts cannon. Woke and one of the A/C Tstats was out. Usually it's a clogged condensate that has a float switch. Drain is bone dry as is the float switch. Check low voltage fuse that's good. No power coming into the Air Handler. Check the breaker and it isn't tripped. Take the panel off I have 240 coming out of the breaker. This is going to be fun. To rule out a breaker with voltage but maybe not able to carry current I removed the wires from the non working unit and swapped them to my working units breaker after removing the working wires. Still no power and Tstat not working. Where I messed up was I was looking at the working Tstat that I disconnected instead of the bedroom one. lol After an hour I realize my mistake and told my wife Ivan would recreate the experiment but I got lazy. I also connected the 2 un powered wires and checked for continuity at the A/H to make sure critters didn't eat the wires in the attic. That was fine also. This was not making sense but I convinced myself the breaker was bad. I did also check for shorts to ground and nothing. OTW to Lowes I almost turned around as I remembered we have a standby generator and it has 2 load sheds for the A/C units. The continuity test fooled me though. I install the breaker and of course no power. I look at the load shed and see the light is off. Pull the panel and the module which looks like a contractor is pulled in. I have 240 on the line side 0 on the load side. I bypass this connecting L1 to T1 and L2 to T2 and bam working again. I call the gen people on a Sunday as we have a maintenance contract. A tech calls me back and explained the module is normally closed. Exact opposite of an A/C contactor. Pulled in is failed. He explained there is a bulletin on these as it is a manufacturing defect and they are going to replace it under warranty. The guy told me I could have also pulled a connector off the circuit board and that would have bypassed it instead of wire nutting the wires so good to know. At least i figured it out. lol Don't be lazy like me and test again if you forgot something like Ivan would do. :)
after going over an elderly freind's recent acquisition, I an quite tempted to Pay It Foreward and have you give it a diagnostic once-over. it's in severe need of "de-teenagering"; I located two very obvious crossover wires , one in each fuseblock, that are very obviously off an amp and bass speakers, plus there's a dead trunk release with no other way of doing so outsive of an improv pull line going through the back seat that uses the emergency handle inside the trunk. throw in worrisome turbo wastegate and traction control codes plus completely dead fobs which have the only other pop the trunk button, and I'm afraid this lady is going to have major trouble she can't afford. unfortunately, both of us are in a state of "this is the ONLY vehicle I have", and my inspection is due, so I have to hedge my bets in case I lose the vehicle I just bought to some tiny pinhole in a subframe. AGAIN.
You could have moved the jumper from the NO contact of engine control relay to connector E pin 5. This after the engine control fuse so in this way, the traction system circuits are fused.
Yes, but I think he wants it to work as factory as possible. Changing circuitry can be a huge headache for the next guy, even if the next guy is the one who did it as often you forget details.
It is pretty disappointing when workshops attempts at repairing vehicles do fail, yet the customers pay real cash for what really is a not fit for purpose repair. If a workshop agrees to work on your vehicle, they have an obligation to either return t free of charge saying they could not diagnose the issue. To blindly do swap a part really should be on the workshop to wear the costs if the issue is not rectified. I fully appreciate that to diagnose something, there may be other items the customer either did not know was wrong, or just outright did not wish to repair; that does require repairing so the initial fault can be repaired. It is incumbent on the workshop to advise the customer of this, or refuse the work if the customer won't authorise the repairs that are necessary to tackle the issue they bought the car in for in the first place.
I think they convince the customer that the issue is hard to find, so the best they can do is guess. The customer often has no choice but to agree. What they don't know is that much better diagnostic approaches are possible, but it may not be easy for them to find.
These mercedes v6s hold 8 litres of oil which is 8 1/2 quarts. Maybe you just did not show it but I did not see you put new o-rings on that filter stick. I always did that and they come with the filter. I really like watching you hunt down the root cause of a problem with cars. I learned a long time ago not to use after market, chines made, parts on any car.
Good thinking on adding the fuse to the jumped relays. Nice to have multiple scanners, and one that fits the bill. When you broke down by the side of the road, was thinking local police coming up behind, coming to the window saying, Sir, are you diagnosing a car by the side of the road again? 😁 Good job, again.
Well, you weren't walking after that car stalled, Ivan. So that repair was good on. A couple of replacement parts isn't that bad to turn off a couple of lights. But if companies are going to make replacement parts, why not make the best parts they can possibly make. If they manufacture garbage, that's what people think about their company. If they skimp on quality, thinking they'll save on expendatures, thier profits will never exceed the little they saved. This will be because word will get around about the terrible parts the manufacture. Again, nice work Ivan.
This would be probably the OOONLY time i would disagree with you Ivan....i personally would of ran that wire over to the original fuse for the TCM....so the same fuse still does what it's labeled to do. Although that would taken removing the whole relay unit....but that would of been cleaner....out of 6 years of following you.....i guess that's pretty goos....😜😜 Your still one of best on here 👍🏼👍🏼😤
Glad the Autel is working good. I decided to buy one but was pondering sending it back since its a good bit of $$ and I rarely need a scanner.... I have found that it needs to be on wifi to connect to an Alpha Romeo Giulia, not sure what thats all about. Ive been scanning all of my families vehicles just to try it out, it doesnt need WIFI to scan Jeeps, Nissans, or Honda's, only the Alpha. The TPMS feature works wonderfully.
I have a customer who has a crossfire. Looking forward to the same repairs being that the last crossfire video hers broke down a couple days after ya posted it. Same failure. Advance auto parts has the Bosch crank sensors
What scanner do you use when its a newer Chrysler (FCA) product that requires Chrysler Auth through subscription. FCA wants everyone to pay to diag their own car@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Hey Ivan, why didn't you just replace the relay module with the Standard Motor Products RY-1562 Relay I personally would not have cut any of the wires.
Good job mr Ivan I enjoy all 3 videos thank you for all the the free lessons. Question can you please send the link for eBay used parts in most of your videos mention that I try to check but only new pats that are not genuine. Thank you sir
Always thought it was pretty wild that customers are the ones to continue to pay for a parts cannon. Good series though, i'm sure that is a fun car to drive.
Invest in a decent bidirectional scan tool - even at a home DIY level, combined with wiring diagrams and online info, you'll get a lot further than you may think. Not affiliated - I bought an XTool A30M (uses your tablet via BT) that's amazing at the low price point. I did a successful diag on non reading TPMS on one vehicle and evap leak on another vehicle. Much better than a shop guessing.
The engine looks similar to my ML, got stranded once with P0335 that I checked with my blue driver scan tool. Replaced it like shown here which is in a pretty hard to reach spot and had to use a swivel socket. Been driving fine since then.
That's why I do my own work. First is labor cost savings. 2nd I take my time and do a complete diagnostic. I agree that the consumer needs to demand a guarantee. However the consumer also mistakenly believes the code scan is the only diagnostic you need. They believe read the code replace the part and your fixed. I have one friend that has a vehicle miss fire. He can't understand why I want to do diag the primary and secondary ignition to see exactly what's gong on.
I use to do this type work in this area and was towed in from crazy distances but quit once finding out the lost money to shop and neglecting family from time spent on this type work. 40 years in the business as of this year I quit to have some sanity. I started limiting this work years ago cross bread vehicles, more than 3 failed shop attempts and parts aftermarket cannon. If you actually figure your real time it is generally 5 to 10 times what Is charged in some of the worst cases. I love watching your videos and glad your making income with videos but solely on these vehicles I would not survive financially or family divorce because of the hours I spent researching and diagnosing especially temperature or vibration related or just random once a week glitches.
Most of the cars he works on should be write offs due to cost to repair. Like this one, A 170k mile 15+ year old car with multiple issues🤨. I work on stuff like this as a hobby now. Fix everything on an old clunker to make it my own personal ride. Current truck I just finished up I dumped $1200 of parts into it and prob close to 20 hours fixing all the issues. Prob a $6-8k bill at a shop on a truck that is prob worth $4k all sorted out.
To be fair, the customer would be better off just towing their vehicle to you the first time knowing the issue will be resolved with a lack of bs lol. Too many shops have the “my vehicle runs fine, so the customer should have just purchased a better car to begin with” mentality. As long as they make enough to stay in business they don’t care. It’s amazing to drive by so many shops and see their lot full. It’s not because they’re that good, just the opposite. I hear their names come up in random conversations and read their reviews.
I'd blame a cosmic ray interaction. Back in 2010 (If I remember the year right), I and the wife were returning from visiting relatives in Ohio in our 2008 Jeep Patriot with the 2.4L CVT combo. Approaching the toll booth at the Mighty Mac, I was braking to a stop in traffic and the Jeep just shut off. No warnings. No evidence. I believe just about every light on the dash was on. Pop it into neutral or park, cycled the key and it started right up with no MIL light on. Strangest thing I ever saw. It never happened again and I owned the Jeep for almost 9 years before trading.
Wow another fantastic diagnosis from you. I’m 67, been a mechanic/tech for 51 years and am still working on vehicles at my home shop similar to yours. Your channel is invaluable to me. I’ve learned more from you than the 12 years I spent in dealerships where we were suppose to be getting training. You are one in a thousand in diagnostic skills and I look forward to your videos. Keep up the good work. Oh, I thought about that circuit out of the relay not being fused and then you hit that very thing. I would have never thought about that before. Your teaching this old dog new tricks. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support! Lots more fun cars to come 🙂👍
Absolutely correct. Dealership reputation used to be Golden. Now they are not. Guessing at parts with the customer paying is robbery. Great job again Ivan.
It is funky how some scanners play different w/ different cars.
Nice work Ivan! It's a satisfying feeling when older cars are fixed properly and maintained, rather than scrapped. Even the fresh oil change felt good! LOL.
Ivan, your knowledge is beyond belief. Top diagnostic on Electrics. Amazing. Please keep your channel updates trying to learn so much from you.
Glad you find the videos helpful, Dave! Plenty more interesting case studies to come 😉
Loved the modification to the relay. I can’t imagine any other shop doing this. Very well done.
The Crossfire is a rare car over here in Europe.
IMO it is kinda collectible.
SLK's are everywhere. Common as muck.
Respect for the owner/customer for fixing up this Crossfire.
The problem with the car repair industry is that repair shops do not pay their people what it is worth to get the education to make it worth putting in the time. You have degrees ,i am sure, and i bet a back ground in electronics.. Many shops make their money on brake jobs ,etc. You need to be trained in how to use a scope and be able to understand what you are seeing. If you do not get alot of that kind of work it is cheaper to sublet that type of work, thats where you come in. I watch you and Eric from south main and the older guy down south all the time. I also miss the staten island guru . I watch for procedure and process and learn at least one new thing each time. If I want to be entertained ,I watch the hand waver,Scotty. YOU KNOW why people tow their cars to you,because there is no shop in their area with a reputation for that kind of diag, and to be fair, you love it. When someone sends their problem to you they expect to pay for the time you put in to research ,not so much in most hometown shops,first question usually is HOW MUCH! Not the greatest insentive to take on a problem job. Anyway ,,keep making the videos .PS I am in the business 60 years
The fact that people are bringing you their cars from other states speaks volumes of you and this channel. Don't be surprise if you a get mine all the way from Costa Rica one day LOL!!!!
Great work Ivan. I like your thoughts for the industry as well. There are so many shops that just fire the parts canon at everything. They don't take the time to thoroughly diagnosis what they are trying to fix.
I would suggest that some do not know how to diagnose the more complex issues. Having the ability read and understand wiring diagrams in automotive applications is not as straight forward as it was some decades ago. The automotive industry has out grown what it once was. I do not know what is taught in automotive colleges in other countries, though I do know through a relative what is taught in my country, and sadly it is not enough. Unless you do an apprenticeship in an workshop that has good diagnostic practices, equipment and technicians, the whole automotive repair industry will mimic what dealerships do - swaptronics. Not a very good outlook of the future in that industry.
Unfortunately, auto techs are not paid enough time for diagnosis and are rushed to come up with a solution.
When the CUSTOMER demands a guarantee, then the industry will change!
Yesterday we dropped off our RV to our favorite RV dealer. We know the owner and employees well now. We wanted our brakes and bearings inspected. Peter the owner told my wife that trailer brakes last many years and he felt the cost to inspect the brakes and bearings was not necessary. They will check the bearings for play. I know how much work is involved on trailer brakes because of TH-cam. I think it's very refreshing that a dealer wojld put the interest of the customer first. You don't see that to often anymore.
How did the dealer put you first by NOT looking at your brakes????? 😮
with the driveshaft and rear right tire issue this customer has got to be extremely happy. great job Ivan
Excellent work Ivan! I can every day on TH-cam the "Parts Cannons" are alive out there. Thank god after I retired, the industry still has some great techs working on these problem vehicles.
The great emperor of car diagnostics strikes again 💪
This is exactly why you need at least 2 scan tools if you work on ppls cars for a living!! Great video as usual Ivan!!
Well done Ivan, super diag and service. You do first rate work always. Respect !
Good catch about the relay jumper bypassing the Traction control 15A fuse!
I'm hazarding a guess here, but I think Chrysler's parts for these are more expensive because they buy them from Mercedes, so there's an extra markup.
Precisely 😁
Yup...........
That is what happened to me, driving and just died. Started went a few more yards then died again. Battery was low because I only drive it 2-3 times a year. My original mechanic thought they had it fixed. When I came to pick it up, it would not start. I will still use them again. This one just had him stumped. Was not charge for any of their time or storage. Since I have owned the car, other then brakes, tires, O2 sensor, battery terminal,and oil, it has never left me down with 173,000 miles. Thanks again Ivan!
How in the world did you accumulate 173,000 miles driving your vehicle 2 or 3 times in a year????? 😂😂😂
@@JamesAgans I was driving it daily, until about 2 years. Then I was just starting car, running it for about 20 minutes. Drive to car wash, or get gas. Was not a daily driver
Very nicely done, you have the correct attitude to tackle problems. Bravo from someone halfway around the world.
Great repair. Will you be contacting Snap-On to inform them of the inadequacies of their scanner on Chrysler Crossfires? (can't VIN ID, misnaming brake sensor being faulty, etc). Would they even bat an eye if you did?
When you first stepped on the brake pedal after the repair (21:20).. Your sensor 2 had a slight delay at first because there was probably a little space or bubble above your sensor, so when you first pushed the pedal it took a moment to fill that slack before it spiked with full pressure, but by the time you pulled your foot off the pedal it was already in sync. Pretty cool to see that in the data. It likely just pushed the bubble back into the reservoir, no worries. :)
It may also benefit from a new pair of sensors honestly. Or run it until the light comes on again.
@@kevin9c1 Meh.. You never know with sensors. Many will never break and out last the car.. Or you can buy a new one thinking it's "old" and your new sensor breaks in 6 months. If it's not broke, don't mess with it-- it may just keep working forever.
@@calholli Yes I do consider this. You are right about that.
Great case study. When you understand the basics and do your research it’s really not that hard.
Obviously, most of the shops want the quick money and due to lack of proper diagnosis they sure don’t want to pay for their wrong diagnosis.
Fifty years in business. 36 as owner. Mistakes ? Of course. Who paid ? I did. That’s why you need to understand complaint. Ask plenty of questions and test drive when done.
Great video series my friend.
great fix and great value for the customer. I have my share of horror stories of money wasted at the dealer, but in their defence, they CANNOT do a fix like this, even if they knew how. pure liability. they will take NO risk. Their job is to do what the manufacturers tell them. I know dealer mechanics locally that tell me they aren't even allowed to guide their own troubleshooting steps. a 15 year mechanic MUST follow the manufacturers steps, in order.
hit the nail on the head -- the industry should be demanding better of themselves, but with the glut of competent diagnosticians, and the disincentivization to have many, it's really creating a run.... I have similar issues in my own industry Radio comms for first responders) where customers chuck tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars replacing 'existing' equipent that hasn't been diagnosed, only to recreate the same problem with 'new' equipment.... when anyone competent could have diagnosed the original issue had nothing to do with the equipment that was there.... What's worse, one of the "leading" brands out there has a series of new equipment that the specs are terrible compared to the stuff they're replacing, causing MORE issues after it's all been replaced! Different vertical, same issues.
Differential diagnostics is important.
RE: Repairs - I'd have modified the inside of the relay board -- jumped the ouput of the "Engine" to "Traction" relay on the board, and found the traces to the other fuses and brought them over... (or traced that out so they could have been reused). But, to your credit, your repair does not impose a new function, and it's way better than a bodged in relay!
Just had the chequered flag out ready to wave when you decided to change the bleeding 8quarts of oil 🛢️. Happy ending to a tricky diag.
It drives me crazy when even a dealer gives you an "I think it's this" diagnosis. I trusted my Ford dealer since 2009 but they now have lost their top technicians and me. I just purchased a Toyota instead of a Ford.
Dealer hire ordinary people and don't provide OE training as their top techs like yourself are no longer available and for good reason. Always learning is key.
The good technicians sometimes open their own shops and are way better than the dealers.. that's an issue especially with European brands that need special attention, so owners need to find these good guys outside the network
Welcome to a less Stressful life. I left Ford many years ago for Toyota and Lexus….big difference.
Yeah this one was satisfying overall. For being off the road for a year, it didn't really take much to get going. New CKP, new brake pressure sensor. We are not talking about a lot of money here. I like this era of Mercedes products. I had an 04 E55 AMG that was my entry into Mercedes and while that car was totaled in 2022, it will always hold a special place in my heart. I actually enjoyed working on it. Then I bought an 07 S550 which has been FANTASTIC. My third is a 2014 E63S which has been good but does scare me, not going to lie...
Wonder how much time Ivan billed for on this one? Its not the cost of the parts on this case that are expensive, its the time the customer will be paying for.
Well done. Work completed with client satisfaction in mind. When people send cars from across the United States to you, you earned that reputation! Wish you were my local mechanic.
Nice catch with the relay fuse!
One of the problems with on-the-fly hacks... The modification usually requires other necessary alterations which can be overlooked rather easily during the heat of the fix.
Granted, the repair is likely to outlast the life of the vehicle. But, the next guy or the original repair person will now be faced with two modifications that will require the mental effort of reverse engineering to understand the reasons and correctness for the modification.
As stated in my comment for the previous video on this thread, soldering in a relay pigtail is rather self-documenting.
I made the mod so a new relay box can be swapped in plug and play 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yep! Not bad mouthing your course of action. If the fix works, that's 95% of the battle.
But, multiple decades of software development and 3:00am debugging under-the-gun so payroll for thousands of employees completes, I've discovered that making one's footprints obvious and self-documenting are rather important.
And it's not so much for the next guy. It's so when I revisit the code again in five years, it will be instantly obvious.
This is why when an internal relay goes bad in a component, I'll solder in a harness and have the relay dangling outside of the module.
There's no extra head scratching five years into the future if revisited. "Oh, the relay is bad again or another component failed," the external relay can be replaced or the whole module swapped out instantly without having to reverse engineer the extra fuse modification to determine if it has to be removed or can be left in-place.
Just something to think about...
Wow, I was WAY off in my guess! LOL
Good finds, Ivan! This was the last "good" era of Mercedes, when they were still trying to put some quality into things. That 3.2L V6 is lovely. I notice you didn't change the oil filter housing stem O-rings, though! Or at least, not on camera. ;) No worries though, most folks never change them, and they can go a looong time!
I was wondering if someone was gonna comment on this. I am guilty of not changing stem seals but always change filter housing o ring. Did not see them in the box.
It doesn't surprise me that some Mercedes parts are reasonably priced. I had to change an intercooler hose on my 2009 W204 C200 CDI and the genuine part from the dealer was cheaper than some of the aftermarket ones.
Global supply chains and global sales (in volumes) of many of their products is why that is.
Well, we got to see a great case study. Component repair, Swaptronics, and a great diagnosis were all part of the study. I am going to call the jumper wire a "Russian" repair just for good measure, LOL. I was hoping to get to see a "string" alignment on the rear suspension; that independent system is why you and I like solid rear axles so well. Both of my 6.0 liter diesels have that same setup concerning the oil filter and to a smaller degree the HCFM and the fuel filter on top of the engine. The also have a 4 gallon oil capacity; I think that 15W-40 per gallon is $22.00 at Wal-Mart. GREAT VIDEO!
Love carnografy first thing in the A.M , Good morning All from Boston, MA
Very good repairs and outcome. Hope the customer gets many thousands of good driving miles.
Good one Ivan!
You spent some time on the relay mod and then adding a fuse but I don't ever remember hearing if that module was available and/or how much it costs...
FINALLY! Somebody on TH-cam using the same scanner I have. I just recently used it on an older Mercedes and to my own amazement it did auto ID. The 808 is a little beast for some things. So far I have probably only used about .00001% of it's capabilities but I'm glad to know I'm somewhat covered.
Listening to the rhythm of the falling rain.
Did you change the O-rings on the oil filter? They should have been included with the filter. Not worth skipping considering that the risk is loss of oil pressure...
Wish I had those scanners…good job Ivan! As always!
Nice work, and thanks for the tip on that Autel scanner! I'm in the market for one right now, though I will probably wait for a Black Friday deal.
Why can’t they just keep the oil filter simple. Subaru has got to be the easiest oil filter to change of any car. You go above and beyond the normal parts changing shop. I learn more watching you and Eric O. Don’t know why they put all these sensors that we don’t need on cars these days. 👍🏻
Great video, fine solution of bypass the relay. That was a hard one, but with good preparation instead of partskanon are the right way.
Instead of external fuse, wouldn't it be posible to cut the hot side of the internal fuse, install the wire from the other relay to the hot side, and just make a short from hot side to load side of the traction relay. Then the wireharness are still original, and if the relaybox are exchanged, all the modif are inside this.
Like the tips on replacement parts, go to the Mercedes dealer, its cheaper than the Chrysler and the parts are the same.😊😊😊
Another great diag and good value for your customer. I can see why people travel long distances to get you to fix their problem cars. That driveshaft vibration on high torque take offs could be the rubber donut on the centre bearing flogged out. I fixed mine on my old work vehicle by applying a large amount of sikaflex into the damaged rubber area left it for a few days and problem solved still driving it four years later. Again aftermarket parts causing intermittent issues causing extra problems mechanics should know better by now.
Excellent three part series. Way to go, Ivan.
Great work Ivan. Over the summer I imported a 1996 Mitsubishi Pajero Mini from Japan. Little 4 cylinder 660 engine, nonturbo, 2WD and stick shift, 90,000 km. Titled it and is parked in our garage at our hobby farm in Virginia. It runs fine but I'm sure there'll be a few gremlins so you will eventually get to make a video! Pajero translates to 'wanker' in Spanish so you could have some fun with the video title 😂 Still have my Celica convertible, that is parked at our home in Bedford County. BTW importing a car from Japan was so easy, have some interesting vehicles, I used CarfromJapan. If I had the money I'd get an early 90s Supra for sure. Mine was $2800, most of that was shipping!
and in an emergency, you can simply go find a Raider of the era for parts
Well done as usual Ivan. No warning lights on a Chrysler is up there with cold fusion on the modern miracles scale…
Lol same goes for Mercedes?
It is important for folks to put some thought into where they are taking their cars for repair. When I moved years ago, I asked for recommendations from local folks for good tradesmen, not the cheapest place to go. A good mechanic might not have the cheapest hourly rate, or the highest rate, but they develop a good reputation for their work. I do 99% of my own work but when I do need to take it someplace else, I want to support a place that does good work that they stand behind.
If you pull the crank position sensor (variable reluctance sensor (VRS)) and confirm it is OEM, has no cracks and the pins are clean, you can put in a vise (gently) monitor the coil resistance and slowly heat up with a heat gun. If the sensor does not drop out then while it is warm lightly tap on the sensor and see if it drops out. For a more advanced drop out test you may want to monitor voltage with the Picoscope and power the sensor statically with a variable bench DC linear current limited power supply. See if the sensor goes open with heat and vibration. For this year car I know that Chryslers VRS crank sensors are not as trouble free as Ford. However, OEM VRS sensors, unless damaged, are very robust sensors.
Excellent diagnostics and repairs, as usual. You are most definitely,The Man!
I was thinking about that jumper you put in on the relay module. #1 did that bypass eliminate the fuses on the other circuit? I think it did. #2 will that 15 amp fuse on the working circuit handle the additional load? Possibly? I think I would have replaced it with a 20 amp to be surer. I was happy to see that you did address that first concern. Good call. And as I was saying before. The can bus on those things is poor. If the right failure comes into play, the whole network goes down. And it can and will show a number of false or misleading error codes. Older Volvo's are like that too. Your conclusion at the end is spot on Ivan. Well said. And another job well done.
Nice repair, sensor duplicating and intermittent diagnosis!
This is an amazing series. Tons of diagnostic work and troubleshooting. A extremely valuable teaching video for sure. Thank you!!!
You're very welcome!
Very cool! I drive a 2004 Lincoln Town Car and drive about 3000 miles a year. Living in Florida with the heat and humidity I like to change my oil twice a year even though I don't drive a lot of miles. It's only oil and it costs me about $50 a shot. I go to a garage that specializes in Fords and they also check my car over. To me it's worth changing it more often than needed.
Just wanted to swing by say hi and thanks trying to point me in the right direction!
So after the 2nd mechanic the third figured out, I had bad gas he replaced the plugs and a break line that broke in the process of all the towing, so the grand total for bad gas cost me, 5k because of false advertising and Pizz poor Mechanics… thanks again!
Bad gas sucks 😣
yes it does. and incompetent “Diagnostic” mechanics suck worse. ✌🏼 @@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
I agree with you, Ivan. If you don't have a written warranty/guarantee from the shop, go somewhere else. You get what you pay for...
Good call on the fuse Ivan... That's what separates the men from the boys.
Great job Ive! Such a convoluted diagnosis/modification but you sorted everything mate well done!
Now, what's that 🤬🤬 loud annoying beeping going on EVERY time you turn the 🤬🤬key? Where's my hammer & flat blade screwdriver to fix that faulty beeper? BANG!!!💥 Ahh, that's better!
Ivan, fantastic diagnostic yet again. My thoughts were that the 2 identical relays may have had slightly different pull-in voltage levels. If you’d transposed the 2 relays you might have had different faults. Your idea of combining the 2 outputs would do no harm and could only increase longevity. My guess would be that the coil windings were incorrectly wound from new. Or a dry joint, you couldn’t see with the naked eye.
This is why I’m quitting car repair. All this unnecessary complicated crap for no reason and new cars are even worse
We can see that CHRY really wanted to sell a lot of these cars, a car built with MB and only 8 Modules, something is not normal about this car for sure. If you use the AUTEL can you please scroll down to show the total number of modules at some point in your video please, some of us keep Module info in our libraries and some dont have the big bucks to buy super nice scanners. Great video series as always. People are bringing you cars from all over the country and all that is needed is an understanding of a schematic in many of these cases along with a decent scan tool. Cheers.
Super nice scanners are actually pretty affordable these days 😉
The good ol K40 relay box and crank sensor. When I was at Mercedes those were very common. 👍👍
I'm beginning to think that the Crank- & Camshaft sensors should be changed at regular intervals (every 40-50k or every 4-5 years).
@@websterdds that to 🤣. I keep a crank sensor in my center console of my 02 ml320 🤣🤣
Hello . Thanks so much for all these videos, gives me more confidence to do diy stuff. I would have begged borrowed or bought a gen purpose small relay and took the bad relay out and glued an aftermarket same size relay and jump the relay terminals vvia solder to circuit board. My next project is to install missing cam position magnet on 1992 Buick Lasabre cam shaft gear with out pulling any thing except cam sensor. Kind of like medical surgery. These cam magnets fall off iguess.
Hey Ivan another great case study. Better you than me. LOL. Talking about beach whales. When I call on a European shop, when I walk up and see more cars than their lot can handle, and customers have trouble finding a space to park. I start looking at vehicles that are closer to the front door. I will stop and bend over and start look at the brake rotors. I examine how much rust has built up on the rotor, which tells me how long the vehicle has been sitting there. I ask my self is this the place where cars come to die. If you're storing beached whales on your lot, it speaks volumes about your business without uttering a word. Free Willie! LOL
You put the ketchup on the fries Ivan. What is it with shops now saying " well we tried to fix it " yea but at what cost to the customer ? You chased the demons outta this my man.. Great work Ivan !
The owner brought the car to you with a full tank of gas? What the heck was he thinking? Guess he didn't get the memo.
crank sensor gets hot and car stalls out had sensor fail on 2 different car in the past year great work on bypassing defective relay
Glad you caught that fusing issue before the car got back to the customer. I was a bit concerned about that.
Diagnose Dan ran into a Bosch sensor that had reversed pins. I would stick with OE, of course knowing my luck Bosch is probably the supplier for this car.😂😂
Awesome work! FYI you were supposed to replace the O rings on the end of the filter housing. They come with the Mann filter.
Had an inner Ivan moment today but ignored it and wrongly fired the parts cannon. Woke and one of the A/C Tstats was out. Usually it's a clogged condensate that has a float switch. Drain is bone dry as is the float switch. Check low voltage fuse that's good. No power coming into the Air Handler. Check the breaker and it isn't tripped. Take the panel off I have 240 coming out of the breaker. This is going to be fun. To rule out a breaker with voltage but maybe not able to carry current I removed the wires from the non working unit and swapped them to my working units breaker after removing the working wires. Still no power and Tstat not working. Where I messed up was I was looking at the working Tstat that I disconnected instead of the bedroom one. lol After an hour I realize my mistake and told my wife Ivan would recreate the experiment but I got lazy. I also connected the 2 un powered wires and checked for continuity at the A/H to make sure critters didn't eat the wires in the attic. That was fine also. This was not making sense but I convinced myself the breaker was bad. I did also check for shorts to ground and nothing. OTW to Lowes I almost turned around as I remembered we have a standby generator and it has 2 load sheds for the A/C units. The continuity test fooled me though. I install the breaker and of course no power. I look at the load shed and see the light is off. Pull the panel and the module which looks like a contractor is pulled in. I have 240 on the line side 0 on the load side. I bypass this connecting L1 to T1 and L2 to T2 and bam working again. I call the gen people on a Sunday as we have a maintenance contract. A tech calls me back and explained the module is normally closed. Exact opposite of an A/C contactor. Pulled in is failed. He explained there is a bulletin on these as it is a manufacturing defect and they are going to replace it under warranty. The guy told me I could have also pulled a connector off the circuit board and that would have bypassed it instead of wire nutting the wires so good to know. At least i figured it out. lol Don't be lazy like me and test again if you forgot something like Ivan would do. :)
after going over an elderly freind's recent acquisition, I an quite tempted to Pay It Foreward and have you give it a diagnostic once-over. it's in severe need of "de-teenagering"; I located two very obvious crossover wires , one in each fuseblock, that are very obviously off an amp and bass speakers, plus there's a dead trunk release with no other way of doing so outsive of an improv pull line going through the back seat that uses the emergency handle inside the trunk. throw in worrisome turbo wastegate and traction control codes plus completely dead fobs which have the only other pop the trunk button, and I'm afraid this lady is going to have major trouble she can't afford. unfortunately, both of us are in a state of "this is the ONLY vehicle I have", and my inspection is due, so I have to hedge my bets in case I lose the vehicle I just bought to some tiny pinhole in a subframe. AGAIN.
You could have moved the jumper from the NO contact of engine control relay to connector E pin 5. This after the engine control fuse so in this way, the traction system circuits are fused.
Yes, but I think he wants it to work as factory as possible.
Changing circuitry can be a huge headache for the next guy, even if the next guy is the one who did it as often you forget details.
It is pretty disappointing when workshops attempts at repairing vehicles do fail, yet the customers pay real cash for what really is a not fit for purpose repair. If a workshop agrees to work on your vehicle, they have an obligation to either return t free of charge saying they could not diagnose the issue. To blindly do swap a part really should be on the workshop to wear the costs if the issue is not rectified.
I fully appreciate that to diagnose something, there may be other items the customer either did not know was wrong, or just outright did not wish to repair; that does require repairing so the initial fault can be repaired. It is incumbent on the workshop to advise the customer of this, or refuse the work if the customer won't authorise the repairs that are necessary to tackle the issue they bought the car in for in the first place.
I think they convince the customer that the issue is hard to find, so the best they can do is guess. The customer often has no choice but to agree. What they don't know is that much better diagnostic approaches are possible, but it may not be easy for them to find.
These mercedes v6s hold 8 litres of oil which is 8 1/2 quarts.
Maybe you just did not show it but I did not see you put new o-rings on that filter stick. I always did that and they come with the filter.
I really like watching you hunt down the root cause of a problem with cars.
I learned a long time ago not to use after market, chines made, parts on any car.
Congratulations sir 👏 🙌 super 👌 diagnosis and customer will be happy for sure...cheers
Good thinking on adding the fuse to the jumped relays. Nice to have multiple scanners, and one that fits the bill. When you broke down by the side of the road, was thinking local police coming up behind, coming to the window saying, Sir, are you diagnosing a car by the side of the road again? 😁 Good job, again.
I was thinking police ... license and registration ... hey out of state ...they don't match ... step out of the car...🙄
@@chuckvoss9344 🤣
Well, you weren't walking after that car stalled, Ivan. So that repair was good on.
A couple of replacement parts isn't that bad to turn off a couple of lights. But if companies are going to make replacement parts, why not make the best parts they can possibly make. If they manufacture garbage, that's what people think about their company. If they skimp on quality, thinking they'll save on expendatures, thier profits will never exceed the little they saved. This will be because word will get around about the terrible parts the manufacture.
Again, nice work Ivan.
This would be probably the OOONLY time i would disagree with you Ivan....i personally would of ran that wire over to the original fuse for the TCM....so the same fuse still does what it's labeled to do. Although that would taken removing the whole relay unit....but that would of been cleaner....out of 6 years of following you.....i guess that's pretty goos....😜😜 Your still one of best on here 👍🏼👍🏼😤
Glad the Autel is working good. I decided to buy one but was pondering sending it back since its a good bit of $$ and I rarely need a scanner.... I have found that it needs to be on wifi to connect to an Alpha Romeo Giulia, not sure what thats all about. Ive been scanning all of my families vehicles just to try it out, it doesnt need WIFI to scan Jeeps, Nissans, or Honda's, only the Alpha. The TPMS feature works wonderfully.
are you in he usa Alfa Romeo are rare birds in the usa i would not choose a scanner base on 1 car brand
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt yeah, USA. Unfortunately it needs a scanner the most haha. Thing seems to always have an issue.
sharing sensor data , great trick when dual sensors like O2 sensors bank to bank problems
Rube Goldberg would have been proud of the electronics system in this car.
I have a customer who has a crossfire. Looking forward to the same repairs being that the last crossfire video hers broke down a couple days after ya posted it. Same failure. Advance auto parts has the Bosch crank sensors
This is why you do thorough test drives.
I love my Thinktool ProS and the Diagun IV, but, as you also found, the more basic Autel MaxiDas and MaxiCom save the day at times.
I hate my MaxiDas with a passion but it always gets the job done, eventually lol.
@@v12alpine maxiDas was my first real scanner 10 years ago ... A real dinosaur by modern standards lol!
What scanner do you use when its a newer Chrysler (FCA) product that requires Chrysler Auth through subscription. FCA wants everyone to pay to diag their own car@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
pretty satisfying result, nice work
At 27:12 - provocative perspective about the auto service industry, especially by someone that works in it.
Hey Ivan, why didn't you just replace the relay module with the Standard Motor Products RY-1562 Relay I personally would not have cut any of the wires.
OEM Mercedes is only $140 at my local dealer.....
Good job mr Ivan I enjoy all 3 videos thank you for all the the free lessons.
Question can you please send the link for eBay used parts in most of your videos mention that I try to check but only new pats that are not genuine.
Thank you sir
Always thought it was pretty wild that customers are the ones to continue to pay for a parts cannon. Good series though, i'm sure that is a fun car to drive.
Invest in a decent bidirectional scan tool - even at a home DIY level, combined with wiring diagrams and online info, you'll get a lot further than you may think.
Not affiliated - I bought an XTool A30M (uses your tablet via BT) that's amazing at the low price point. I did a successful diag on non reading TPMS on one vehicle and evap leak on another vehicle. Much better than a shop guessing.
Considering the fact techs as accomplished as Ivan are rare as unicorn horns, I'll keep my vintage diesels in operating condition.
The engine looks similar to my ML, got stranded once with P0335 that I checked with my blue driver scan tool. Replaced it like shown here which is in a pretty hard to reach spot and had to use a swivel socket. Been driving fine since then.
Yes, you want to do replace the CKP sensor proactively in these M112 and M113 engines
That's why I do my own work. First is labor cost savings. 2nd I take my time and do a complete diagnostic. I agree that the consumer needs to demand a guarantee. However the consumer also mistakenly believes the code scan is the only diagnostic you need. They believe read the code replace the part and your fixed. I have one friend that has a vehicle miss fire. He can't understand why I want to do diag the primary and secondary ignition to see exactly what's gong on.
The technician must educate the customer... Clear Communication is crucial 😉
I use to do this type work in this area and was towed in from crazy distances but quit once finding out the lost money to shop and neglecting family from time spent on this type work. 40 years in the business as of this year I quit to have some sanity. I started limiting this work years ago cross bread vehicles, more than 3 failed shop attempts and parts aftermarket cannon. If you actually figure your real time it is generally 5 to 10 times what Is charged in some of the worst cases. I love watching your videos and glad your making income with videos but solely on these vehicles I would not survive financially or family divorce because of the hours I spent researching and diagnosing especially temperature or vibration related or just random once a week glitches.
Most of the cars he works on should be write offs due to cost to repair. Like this one, A 170k mile 15+ year old car with multiple issues🤨. I work on stuff like this as a hobby now. Fix everything on an old clunker to make it my own personal ride. Current truck I just finished up I dumped $1200 of parts into it and prob close to 20 hours fixing all the issues. Prob a $6-8k bill at a shop on a truck that is prob worth $4k all sorted out.
Agreed you definitely don't want to work for free lol!
We knew you'd find it! ;) Great work Ivan.
To be fair, the customer would be better off just towing their vehicle to you the first time knowing the issue will be resolved with a lack of bs lol. Too many shops have the “my vehicle runs fine, so the customer should have just purchased a better car to begin with” mentality. As long as they make enough to stay in business they don’t care. It’s amazing to drive by so many shops and see their lot full. It’s not because they’re that good, just the opposite. I hear their names come up in random conversations and read their reviews.
First class service
I'd blame a cosmic ray interaction.
Back in 2010 (If I remember the year right), I and the wife were returning from visiting relatives in Ohio in our 2008 Jeep Patriot with the 2.4L CVT combo. Approaching the toll booth at the Mighty Mac, I was braking to a stop in traffic and the Jeep just shut off. No warnings. No evidence. I believe just about every light on the dash was on. Pop it into neutral or park, cycled the key and it started right up with no MIL light on. Strangest thing I ever saw. It never happened again and I owned the Jeep for almost 9 years before trading.